The Nonpartisan Leader Newspaper, August 2, 1917, Page 12

Mrs. Alberta B. Toner ‘ - Silk, the Fabric of King’s - T ES HE story of the principal silk fabrics is more interesting than that of cotton, because so many of the.common names of silk go back to antiquity. Silkks were beautifully woven and fam- ous throughout the ancient world, a source of great wealth to the dense populations of semi-tropical countries, and a commerce to be fought for by kings. Some of the every-day names of silk at dry-goods counters today hdave their beginning centuries . ago when women in Egypt, India, and Asia operated hand looms, and before work- ers’-hours and wages were known. The beputiful sarface effects on modern silks were developed under the slow, patient methods in wuse when the world was young, and some of the choicest silks to be had in modern commerce are still woven by hand, notably in Ireland, where skillful fing- ers produce laces and fabrics of the finest quality. One of the old Egyptian fabrics is “alma cloth,” a fabric double twilled from left to right diagonally. It was first made in black for mourning pur- poses, and its name is from the Egyp- tian word meaning a mourner or singer at a funeral. Some of the finest silks of today were first used by the ancients in their elaborate mourning ceremonies, for which nothing was too good, and moderns have merely transferred the color from black to something brilliant, and have changed their original uses. As is the case with cottons, which were referred to last week, silks have taken their mames from the geography of their origin, and the methods used to produce them. BAREGE, BERBER, BENGOLINE AND BOMBAZINE Barege is a sheer fabric of silk from the town of Bareges, in France. Benga- line is an imitation of an old silk cloth made for many centuries in Bengal, [ndia, hence the name. The weave is similar to that of ordinary poplin, be- ing a simple round-corded effect. The cord is produced by using a heavy soft-spun woolen weft which is so rlosely covered by the silk warp threads tat it is not exposed when examined from the wrong side. The same weave ls found in all-silk goods, known as “all-silk bengaline.” - Berber is a satin-faced light-weight sloth. Its popularity was at its height about the time of the defeat of the ‘Berbers by General Gordon in his cam- saign against the Mahdi in North Africa. Bombazine is a fine twilled cloth of silk warp and wool weft, originally nade in black only for mourning. The oot of the name is “bombyx,” the Latin for “silkworm,” Chenille is a cloth of a fuzzy or fluffy face woven of silk, cotten or wool, generally used for curtains and table covers. Chenille is the French word for cét&rpi]lar, which the single thread of the cloth resembles. Chiffon is a thin, transparent silk muslin. Considering its lightness, it is relatively strong. the fineness of the thread, it is assert- ed that one pound of the thread will extend eight miles. Chiffon is especial- ly adapted for home and evening wear. It's delicate softness gives to all who wear it a feeling of becomingness. $ CHINA SILK BY HAND AND MACHINE China silk is a term applied to plain woven silks manufactured in China. The term “China silk” has been recent- ly adopted in the United States for a class of machine woven silks made in imitation of the handloom product. These imitations are narrow in width and lack the soft lustrous quality of the oriental goods and do not have the uneven threads. China silks are distinguished by their iregular threads, caused by some of the threads being = heavier than others and their extreme softness. The warp and filling are identical in size and color. Being woven evenly they produce a beautiful mnatural luster. China silk launders as well as white cotton. Crepe is a thin gauzy fabric, woven in Joose even threads of silk heavily sized . and crimped or ereped in the dyeing. To give an idea of , TS g S T Ancient Women Originated Department Store Goods Crepe was first used in black only as a badge of mourning. It is now an ac- cepted dress fabric, made in white and colors of many materials. The 'name signifies to crimp or crepe with a hét iron, ISolienne is a sheer cloth of silk, wool and silk, or cotton and silk, woven in fine cord effect. The name comes from the Greek Aeolus, god of the winds. HANDKERCHIEF CLOTH BECOMES DRESS GOODS . TFFoulard is a plain silk cloth, sold as dress goods. Originally foulard was made for handkerchiefs only the the word is the Trench name for silk handkerchief. Glace is a plain lustrous silk, yarn dyed with warp of one color and filling or weft of another. The name is ap- plied to all fabrics having two tones. India silk is a mame applied to the plain woven silks made in India on the prim\itive hand looms. The warp and welt are woven evenly and produce a beautiful natural luster and the cloth is similar to China and Japanese silk. India silk is not much known in this country as so little of it is exported. Silk jersey cloth, a popular fabric, is a knitted silk, not woven, and is generally dyed in plain colors. It is expensive and is wused for women's dresses, wraps and silk gloves. Moire is a waved or watered effect produced upon the surface of various textile fabrics, especially on grosgrain silk and woolen moreen. This water- ed effect is produced by the use of en- graved rollers operated at high press- flourish there. The Trish yroduct has been celebrated for its uniformily fine quality. It is always woven on hand looms which accounts for the high price it commands in English and American markets. By using the best grade of silk and wool, -a handsome fabric resembling whole silk goods in appearance is produced, When satin first appeared in trade in southern Iurope, it was called “aceytuim.” Through the early Italian lips it‘slipped into ‘‘zetain,” ard com- ing westward the ‘“ug” was dropped and smootned itself into satin. Some evidence shows that satin was known as early as the fourteenth century in England and probably in France and Spain previous to that time, though under ¢ther names. HOW SATIN FINISH IS PRODUCED In the weaving of most silk fabrics the warp and {filling intersect each other every alternate time, as in plain weaving, or every third or fourth time as in twill weaving, in regular order. But in weaving =satin the fine silk warp only apj=ars upon the surface. Instead of making the warp pass un- der and over the filling every alternate time or° over two or ‘three filling threads in regular order, it is made to pass over eight, ten, twelve or more filling threads; then under one or over eight more, and so on. In passing over the filli'né, the warps do not inter- weave at regular intervals »-ich would produce a twill, but at irregular inter- t--v- ORGSR ] A’.vs'v-u'l'_“a.-‘tv_‘x} 3 PAVAVOVEN BT AYEPEED PUP ! 20 WG R0 30 W RN it T W s SRR S : o - watering which is given lightly by any acidulous fluid, is intended to produce the fine luster, and lastly the fire and pressure which have a par- ticular manner of application. The cloth crack or breaks, especially if pleated, and its wearing qualities are not the best. The different silk fabrics are all good, each in its own place, the choice of which rests with the purchaser and the pocket-book. Each kind has its awn peculiar ®harm which may be en- hanced by properly selecting the right kind for various occasioms and becom= ing colors and styles. ; ROLLED-OATS BREAD Two cups boiling water. One-half cup brown sugar. Two teaspoons salt. One yeast cake. One-fourth cup lukewarm -water, One and one-half cups rolled oats. - Five cups flour. Dissolve the yeast cake in the luke=- warm water. Pour the boiling water over the rolled oats, salt, sugar, and let stand until lukewarm; add the dissolved yeast and fluul_".' Let rise until very-light, beat thoroughly, and turn into two buttered bread pans. ‘When the loaves have doubled their “volume bake them an hour in a moder= ate oven. COTTAGE CHEESE PIE . There is no more substantial dessert than this pie, especially if on: teacup of washed raisins is add.d to this reci- pe. This is sufficient for two pies, “We'll stitch,” is' the women’s variation of the Nonpartisan League motto, “We’ll stick.” Mrs. Agnes McDonald of Page, N. D,, R. F. D. 1, stitched the above plain bit of fillet crochet. This is one of several similar patterns that the woman's department of the Nonpartisan Leader has received, since it first opened its columns to a showing of women’s handiwork of this kind. her letter. “Just like the Nonpartisan league itself—simple and plain.” In the middle in high esteem ure on carded material. ages moire was held and it continues to be a favorite at the " present day. It is used for women's dresses, capes, trimmings, ete. Panne is a name applied to a range of satin-faoced velvet or silk fabrics which show a high luster produced by pressure. The word panne is the French for plush, Peau de soie means literally skin of silk. Peau de soie is a variety of heavy, soft-finished, plain colored dress silk, woven with' a pattern of fine close ribs extencing weftwise of the cloth. The best grades present the same appearance on both sides, being reversible. The lower grades are fin- ished on one side only. ORIGIN OF SOME POPULAR FABRIC NAMES Pongee is said to be a corruption of Chinese “punchi,” meaning home made or home woven. Another suggestion is that the word is a corruption of “pun-shih,” a native cr wild silk. Pongee is a soft, unbleached, washable silk, woven from the cocoons of the wild silk worm which feeds on the leaves of the scrub oak. Poplin, a French name and a French fabric is said to have been first intro- duced during the early part of the sixteenth century at -Avignon, then a papal diocese and . to have been called ‘“pope-line,” in caompliment to the reigning pope. Poplin is a cloth con- structed with a silk warp and a fill-., ing of wool heavier than ‘he silk which gives it a corded appearance. Poplin manufacture was introduced into Ireland in 1693 by a colony of fugitive French Hugenots, and it continues to I3 vals, thus producing an apparently even, close, smooth surface and one capable of reflecting the light to the best advan:iage. \ Common satin is what is technically known as an eight-leaf twill, the or- der in which the filling thread rises being once in eight times. Rich satins many consist of sixteen-leaf to twen- ty-leaf twills. = > When ¥irst taken from the loom the face of satin is somewhat flossy and rough and it consequently requires dressing. This operation consists of passing the pieces over heated metal cylinders which remove the minute fibrous ends and also increase the nat- ural brilliance of the silk. Cotton black satins are- used by coffin manufac- turers, fan makers and by the cutting- up trade. 3 < TAFFETA AN ANCIENT SILK FABRIC Taffeta is one of the oldest weaves known, silk under this name having been in constant use since the four- teenth century. It is a thin glossy silk of plain texture or woven in lines so fine as to appear plain woven. The weave is capable of many effects in the way of shot and changeable ar- rangements which are produced by threads of different colors rather than by any special disposition of warp and fitling, R Taffeta has the zame ippearance on both sides. It is, piece dyed in numer- ous plain colors and also produced in a great variety of ornamental pat- terns. The silk, the water and the fire contribute chiefly to the perfection of taffetas. The silk must n.: be of the flr}xest‘kind, but it must be worked a long time before it ig used. The 3 PAGE TWELVE “It’s just very simple and needs no directions at all,” for it’s just a plain stitch,” says Mrs. McDonald in Make, viz: One cup sugar, one pint cottage cheese, three tablespoons flour, beaten yolkes of three eggs, one table- spoon butter, one cup whole milk, a pinch of salt, and nutmeg to taste. Beat all together and bake as you 40 any other custdrd pie. Use the ‘three egg whites to make a meringue: ‘And here let me say that a properly madae meringue does mot fall if it is cooled gradually after being removed fror the oven, ) : 1% RICE BREAD One cup lukewarin water, milk, or a mixture of the two. : One cup uncooked rice.. Omne and one-fourth teaspoons salt.> One tablespoon sugar. ¢ Butter (if used), 1 tablespoon or less. ‘Two cups wheat flour. Steam the rice with one-half of the liquid until soft. This is done better . in a steamer than in a double boiler, for the liquid is so small in amount - that the rice does mot become soft readily and the presence of the steam helps. Put the sugar, salt, and fat (if used) into mixing bowl and pour over them the remaining liguid (one=- half cup). Y hen the mixture has be- come lukewarm add the yeast and one- half cupful of flour. Allow this sponge to rise. until very light. Ada the boil- ed rice, which should have been cool- ed until lukewarm, and the rest of the flour. This dough is so thick f1._t some pressure is required to work in the last portions of flour, Allow the dough to rise until it has doubled its bulk, form into a 'loaf, place in a pan of standard size, allow it to rise until jt nearly reaches the top of the pan, and bake, 5 s A P