Evening Star Newspaper, September 24, 1935, Page 31

WOMEN’S FEATURES. THE EVENING STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 1935. WOMEN’S FEA TURES. B—11 Sequel to Article on Evolution of Knitted Silk Hosiery Appears Today Modern Manufacture Described Stocking Costly Machines Have of William Lee’ Knitting Frame. BY BETSY CASWELL. YOUNG gentleman of my acquaintance, who has been in the hosiery business for some time, happened, in a dull moment, to read a recent article of mine relative to the history of stockings and the original methods employed in their manufacture. He : advanced the idea : that perhaps my @ Teaders might be interested in a general descrip- tion of the mak- ing of the mod- ern pair of hose, and I suggested that he write a short sketch for me on the subject. The result came to my desk this morning, and, as 1 feel it is both amusing and instruc- Betsy Caswell tive, I am including it verbatim in | the column for today. The amazing developments and improvement in methods, materials and machinery be- tween the days of “Good Queen Bess” and the present time are almost too | stupendous to grasp, when each de- tail is carefully considered. And as for the mulberry-worm industry—that | s a fascinating story in itself, show- Gourmet’s Guide EBERLY. BY LUCIE Ll’r’I‘LE did Pepys dream when he recorded on September 25, 1666, «I did send for a cup of tee, a China drink of which I had never drunk be- fore,’ that this Oriental infusion would become the traditional English beverage and that his countrymen would become inveterate tea bibbers— setting a precedent for the Western Hemisphere! A\ GOOD cup of tea is such a com- forting thing—a bad cup such a disappointment! But it is true that 0 by Former Mill Worker Risen From the Ashes s Original Hand .. ing the progress of silk from leaf to limb, as it were! Stockings of Today. THE stockings with which Queen Elizabeth was so pleased were very different from the ones that you so | casually draw on your foot in this day of marvels. Even after the Rev. Lee invented his manufacturing frame | the process of making a few spools of sllk into coverings of gossamer sheerness had not been thought of. These frames were operated by hand, even as the whole operation of unraveling a cocoon into a spool of silk was done by hand, too. William Lee's wife used to knit stockings just as you, today, knit a skirt. Each stitch was made one after | another until a whole row had been completed, and then another was started above it. Today stockings are knit by having a series of needles, all | | of which together make a complete row of loops. It takes 45 minutes to knit a leg now, instead of weeks, | | and they are knitted on machines that | make 24 at a time. These machines are all run exactly alike, so that no stocking deviates from pattern unless the style is changed. They (the ma- | chines) cost $10,000 apiece. * ok ok X IT WASN'T always that a stocking fitted the leg as it does now. l"or-| merly they looked much like a silk gunny-sack when they were put on, but the introduction of that marvelous machine that shapes the stocking so that it clings to the ankle changed all of that. Each stocking is knitted from the top down, and the number | of loops is reduced gradually so that| | it is smaller around the ankle. | The foot is knftted separately, of lisle thread, on a machine that takes | only 20 minutes to knit two dozen at a time. When stockings are taken off the knitting machine they are loose, puck- | ered, dirty and generally shapeless. | Scouring, dyeing, shaping and press- | ing serve to improve their appearance. After the stockings have been knit they are sent to the looping depart- | ment, where the two parts are joined | Personality Seen as | sonality, or charm. taste for tea is as varied as the teas| together both inside and out. From themsélves—a blend one individual | there they go to another department, may consider delicious another might | where they are seamed together. The ot care for at all. Seeking and find- | machines that perform this look much ing a type to please one’s own palate | Jike sewing machines, but they are 1s a fascinating adventure—the local entirely different in construction and stores have a well-rounded selection | designed with special attachments capable of catering to the most dis-|that produce a variable seam. First criminating taste. tthe foot is seamed, and then up the | * ok ok K back of the leg to the top. IF‘ YOU like a mild and mellow tea o try smoky Chinese—it is unusually WHEN silk stockings first came into fine but little known away from the general use the only color in Chinese restaurant. Basket fire, & which they could be obtained was Japanese green tea, sometimes called | black. After many efforts a dye was | “gpider leg,” because of the long, thin | finally invented that would hold its | Jeaves which resemble the spider leg, | color. Then silk stockings came into | is another mellow tea. In order to|their own. The sheen and beauty | obtain the best results from these deli- | of silk is best brought out by the cate teas they must be properly brewed. | use of dyes that display not only the | They take longer to brew than the | silk, but the leg to its best advantage. | common black tea—many people do|Today dyes are made that are fast not realize this and cannot under- stand why they fail to get the flavor they expect. The smoky Chinese and basket fire should be allowed to brew from 12 to 15 minutes and should be served very, very hot. * X % X THE jasmine and rose flavored China tea is used by the English for the afternoon ritual; served with lemon they are quite different in taste from ghane of the form, and will aways | passing thought. the variety served at breakfast with cream. ICxotic teas should become more popular here—they are so deli- cate and mellow—such a delightful change from the ordinary blends. * % x * WHEN buying black tea, keep in|ask for a pair of stockings, “Malibu | the condition of the skin and nails, | E mind that there are four grades. If you want the finest, ask for the flowering orange pekoe. Orange pekoe means the best portion of the tea plant—the tiny bud and tender leaves constituting this choice variety. The more white bud particle you find in the tea the finer it is. The larger leaves further down the bush are used for less choice blends. Broken orange pekoe is also made up of tender leaves and the tenderest twigs—a little heavy in flavor—considered very good, but does not, of course, compare with the flowering orange pekoe. * * X % For information regarding items mentioned in this column, call Nation- &l 5000, extension 396. to sunlight, washing and perspiration. ‘These dyes are given exotic new names each season. After a stocking is dyed it is sent | to the boarding room, where it is boarded. Here it is shaped while still | moist on forming boards made of | wood about half an inch thick. They are tarefully stretched over the | form and then placed in a hentzd‘ chamber to dry. They assume the | !hold it if well done. | ‘When they come from the boarding , room they are paired, inspected half a dozen times for flaws in the weav- | ing or dyeing, and finally sent on to | your store, where you may walk in, brown” or some such shade, and cas- ually draw them on, little thinking of the cycle which starts with the Japanese girls who pick the mulberry leaves to feed the worms that spin cocoons, that furnish the thread, that make the stockings that dazzle your man. If you wish advice on your individ- ual household problems, write to Betsy Caswell in care of The Star, inclosing stamped, self-addressed envelope for reply. _ Sticky Stains. To remove sirup or sticky, sugary | stains, soak in hot water and then wash in soap and warm water. Voureloll Pt It's the detail that makes it! You can be certain that your choice is good 1t you select one of these lovely crocheted collars. And if you've a gift to present, let your crochet hook work magic. The collar at the top is striking in its openwork design, with the graceful jabot adding that feminine touch that's so important. It and the bottom one are made in cotton. The latter is the sort you’ll have done in no time. And isn't the pert bow smart? For the center one usé petit boucle. It's the sort of collar you can wear opening in front or back, as the mood strikes you. : In pattern 5441 you will find complete instructions for making the ‘eollars shown; an {llustration of them and of the stitches needed; material and requirements. 'To obtain this pattern, send 15 cents in stamps or coin to the Woman' Editor of The Evening Star. L2~ desk — 7 e » Whi AP : le| of . his own “ her roem of Ivory and tose. Five Factors Give Beauty Distinction - One of Strongest Contributors. BY ELSIE PIERCE. JusT a8 you think of a clothes en- semble as coat, hat, shoes, gloves, dress, accessories—so with the beauty ensemble. There are four definite divisions — skin, hair, hands, figure. Each has its own branches, but there it is, a complete unit in itself. The fifth is not so easily defined. It's that illusive quality we call per-| That's made up of a million little things, but those little things make you more truly than the shape of your nose or the color of your eyes. But we could talk about that for a month, there’s so much to_that. So we won't dwell on it | tod much here, Each of the five factors plays a very important part in the finished | product. Therefore, each deserves at- | tention. And this is the time of the | year when every woman owes it to | herself to give her face and her figure, | her hands and her hair all the com- pensating care they need. A hard| Summer is behind you—a season when | (if you're at all human) you probably | abused or neglected your beauty. A | hard Winter is abead. Between sea- | sons there's the Fall—new, sparkling clothes, gay parties. And the clash | is pitiful when a new Fall hat tops | a Summer coiffure or scorched hair. | Or when a splotchy complexion ac- companies a smart, colorful costume. And, talking about clothes, need one even make mention of the figure? It isn't amiss to take inventory. Yes, actually make a list—two lists— good and not so good. Under figure, for instance: If you are about your normal weight and well-proportioned, rate yourself as good under that head- ing. It won’t take more than a sensi- ble diet and a few daily limbering exercises to keep that asset. Other- wise, rate yourself as underweight, overweight, or list the parts that need reducing or developing. Under “face” consider your features and, more especially, your skin; is it dry, oily, marred by blackheads, white- heads, coarse pores, lines, blemishes? | Then there's expression to consider, | and that’s worth much more than a | Hair should get quite the consideration that the face does. You can readily recognize whether it is dry, oily, ends brittle, scalp itchy, covered with dandruff, whether it needs rewaving, recondi- tioning, color-toning. Under hands, | then whether they are too plump or too thin. It's easier setting about doing it when you know just what's to be done. (Copyright. 1935.) . Attendants And Others At Weddings BY EMILY POST. "DEAR MRS. POST: We are ask- ing many friends to church but having a very simple wedding, and I would prefer, if possible, that my at- tendant and I just walk in from a door at the front of the church. How- ever, since we ought to have ushers to seat our guests, I wonder if they could be omitted from a procession.” Answer.—Yes, if you prefer. They might, perhaps, stand on either side of the door through which you enter. “Dear Mrs. Post: I have been ill and now it is too late to give a party in honor of a friend of mine who is to be married soon. . May I give - a party for her after she returns from her wedding trip, or might this give the impression that my idea is an af- terthought?” Answer.—Even under ordinary cir- cumstances a friend may wait until after the wedding to give a party for the bride—especially if many parties are being given for her beforehand. In your case certainly the bride and every one else would understand why you have waited. “Dear Mrs. Post: I'm to be maid of honor to a friend who is going to wear a wedding veil that hangs down in front. I've never been an attend- ant before and I've never been a guest at a wedding where the bride’s veil hung over her face, so I'm not at all sure how I can (or whether I am sup- Posed to) lift the veil from her face, and when, and just how to go about my duties 50 that I shall not add awk- wardness to the picture. I'm very un- nerved about it.” > Answer.—After the service, when the bride is ready to turn away from the altar, you hand her bouquet back to her first and then lift back her veil. She then takes the arm of the bridegroom and as they start the re- cessional you stoop and straighten out her veil and her train. This all sounds very complicated, but if you try your best to keep calm by remem- bering that it is the bride on whom the spotlight is turned, there should not be any difficulty. Only ask her to. pause a moment until you have spread her train. When the bride starts off t once, it is almost impossible not to get either train or veil twisted. 4 frother studies(and much more effectively) 1t . distee) has her nightly visit from the sandman in Coat Dress of Great Chic Classic Severity of Lines and Cut Add Charm. BY BARBARA BELL. VERY woman likes to own at least one coat dress. There burden, and then she goes about the town attired in a simple, beautifully cut, one-piece dress. Often she wears a bit of fur at the neck, or two bits, if she is opulent. Some- times she likes a knitted scarf, very wide, made on very large needles, so that the stitch is big and loose, or a velveteen scarf with belt to match. The coat dress is a style very becom- ing to the mature figure, for long lines, and the absence of elaboration, both essential to this type of frock, have a slenderizing effect. Today's design is the coat dress of clasic simplicity. It buttons far to the left side, an idea much liked in the season’s collections of new and wearable clothes. It is essentially a dress of the present; not a single in- fluence can be detected in its trim straightness, except that most im- portant of all influences—the desire of the modern women to be perfectly dressed. The neckline is high, the sleeves long, set into very deep arm- holes, and the only ornamentation used consists of the two buttons at the top of the side closing, and the buckle on the belt. This is a model developed in light- weight tweeds and homespuns. Nice to wear without a coat, or, when Winter winds are chilly, to wear be- neath a topcoat of tweed or fur. Short fur capes are exceedingly smart, and would look well over so simple a frock. Light-weight wools are good for the coat dress, and are The Old Gardener Says:: The particular advantage to be found in making a rock gar- den at this season lies in the fact that the soil and rocks be- come settled by Spring, at which time planting can be done. It may be, however, that the garden maker will wish to do some of his planting in the Autumn, espe- cially if he wants the early flow- ers provided by bulbs. There are certain bulbs, like the tulip spe- cies, that may be planted this Fall, which will make a beauti- ful display in the Spring. They are very dwarf, but are well col- ored and the flowers themselves are reasonably Jarge. The grape hyacinths are also dwarf and showy bulbous plants to be put into the rock garden this ‘Au- tumn, but earlier than the tulips. They should be planted in groups to get the best effect and in- crease year by year. Few bulb- ous plants are more satisfactory for rock-garden planting, (Copyright. 1935.) are days when a topcoat is a BARBARA BELL, The Washington Star. Inclose 25 cents in coins for Pattern No. 1516-B. Size NAME coeecccccnccmccennccean Address ...... (Wrap coins securely in paper.) interesting in color and in weave. Twilled fabrics are coming in again. One looks like our old friend gabar- dine, and we expect to see serge any minute! Everybody thought . that { with all the gay colors on display, | black would be quite unimportant this | season. But it isn't true, for black is worn by the smartest women, all | hours of the day and night. Green will bear watching, for it appears in a surprising number of good frocks. Dull, dark blue, somewhere between navy and slate, is excellent, and so are the warm brown tones. Gray is often used, especially in flannels and Jerseys. Barbara Bell pattern No. 1516-B is designed in sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46 and 48, Size 36 requires 3% yards of 54-inch material. Every Barbara Bell pattern includes an illustrated instruction guide which is easy to understand. Barbara Bell Fall pattern book available at 15 cents. Address orders to The Evening Star. Ps}?fiokfiy BY DR. JESSE W. SPROWLS. Psychic Boundaries. me'n.v I read a story to this effect: The skin that covers your body is the dividing line between you and the not you. That's hard to believe. Most of the boundary. Yet they area part of that so-called you, which resides within the boundary. The truth is there is no such thing as a psychic boundary. Any attempt to establish one is a good deal like trying to imagine when time began and when time shall be no more. Or the idea that if you look straight up into a clear sky you will see so far that your line of vision will turn into a circle which will have for its terminal a spot just beneath your feet. When you try to establish psychic distance you undertake the impos- sible. It’s the one great riddle of the %'-Hbe ways has been, always (S [performer with winning grace. Undramatic Test Better For Classes School Profits When Matter-of-Fact Way Is Adopted. BY ANGELO PATRL "I’VE come in to hear the class read, Miss Maria. You would like to read to me, wouldn't you, children?” “Yes, Miss Anne.” Miss Maria signaled for the readers to be distributed, selected the story and handed a book to Miss Anne. Now Miss Anne was the new inspector, young and pretty and excited about her new position. Her dress was a pale blue thing that shimmered and floated and shone. About her neck hung a slender gold chain, holding a | glictering blue pendant that swung| and swayed as she moved. She moved | a lot, nodding her head, waving her hands, bending toward each little Lothario, just past 6, was the most attractive little boy that ever won a teacher’s heart. His head was poised like a flower on a slender stalk. His Dorothy Self-Pity Is a Very EAR MISS DIX—1I am & wom- an of 27, married six years to a man who is one of the best. We live with my wid- owed mother, who has & large country home and she has established my husband and me in a little business of our own. It is what I have always wanted and I adore it and I should be happy, but I am not. I am so miserable I wish I could die. I hear so much of the depression, sickness and death I don’t think it is worth while living. A friend of mine dropped dead the other day. Another one who has always been healthy and strong is| dying gradually. Our rivals in busi- ness are trying to discourage us in our new venture. The younger gen- eration hasn't a chance. Even rich| people are not satisfled. Life is just| one struggle after another. When I am glad, something inside of me keeps | whispering to quiet down. I am afraid | to laugh because I know I will make | up for it with tears. Is something wrong with me or is the world all wrong? UNHAPPY. Answer: The trouble with you is that you are afflicted with about the worst case of self-pity I have ever encountered, and that is just about| as dangerous an ailment as anybody | can have. If you let it run on, it| will not only kill all the joy in life | for you, but it will shorten your days, | for it has been conclusively proved time and again that the power of the mind over the body is almost in- finite and that just as there is no tonic that braces us up like hope and cheerfulness, so there is no poi- son that is more deadly than gloom and despair. * x x % 0, IF you want to live, snap out of your depression. Wake up from your nightmare. Quit doping yourself up on your own tears. Be a little ray of sunshine instead of a wet blanket. Take what Stevenson | called “a brave attitude toward life” instead of turning a coward and a quitter before it. Ailment. Dix Says Subtle, Dangerous What should be done in & case like this? B.L.R Answer: Your parents must have some good reason for wishing to send you away to college, or else they would not insist upon it when you prefer your home town. Perhaps the college they have in mind offers better edu- cational advantages. Perhaps they realize that you need to be thrown upon your own. * ¥ * % "THERE are exceptions to every rule, of course, but, generally speaking, it is a good thing for every young boy and girl to be sent away from home to school, because, in the first place, it gets them through the adolescent period among strangers and so saves the conflicts between them and their parents that are sure to occur when city. | they stay at home, and that often makes life miserable for all parties. Then it broadens young people's visions for them to get out into the world and to be brought in contact with new people, new ways of living, new points of view, new customs and. habits. It teaches them self-confidence to have to rely upon themselves and no longer to have mother to cater to their whims about what they eat, or {to pick their clothes up for them when they drop them on ihe floor. I have known mcre than one boy and girl who were regenerated by being sent off to college. DOROTHY DIX. (Copyright. 1935.) Cook’s Corner BY MBS. ALEXANDER GEORGE. GYPSY TRAILS. No better time is found for outdoor cooking than the Fall and early Win- ter. The blazing campfire serves to give heat and cheer as well as prepare the meal. Guests greatly enjoy this type of entertainment and the family is eager for it. Part of the food can be prepared at home and merely re- heated when served or the whole meal Of course, there is plenty of trouble | ¢an be prepared out of doors. Variety in the world, but there is just s much | ©f foods not needed, but sufficient joy. There is just as much sunshine | Quantity very important. as rain. Just as many things to GYPSY MEALS. laugh over as there are to cry over. Fried Eggs and Bacon There is sickness and sorrow and Sliced Tomatoes death, but most of the people we know | Buttered Rolls Mustard are well and hardy and a long way Apple Pie from the cemetery. Why not give the Coffee. hair stood in golden brown ringlets, | live wires, the well and strong, a in which sunlight played hide and |thought instead of concentrating your seek His eyes had the color of golden | attention on the moribund and the sand, played on by sun and rippling crippled and the melancholy? water. He was one of the best readers 3 in the class. Miss Anne called the children by | selecti: Nen:: ll\frl:ri: }‘1‘:’1‘;‘;‘:‘::_ "o":: :fhv,:r ng | own doorstep. If we are always look- other rose a5 his name was calledsand | 15, 17, SOmething to worry over, it is did his best. Lothario was enthralled | :',f;;od‘;“:“-: ":o ':::{th “:;;: 3,“ with the lovely lady in blue. His eyes 't find f y o | followed her every movement. He ol il e swayed us she swaed, his hands|ompierome ytes Teon to moved under his desk 88 h DA | explore their systems. There isn’t ed 8s hers moved | anyhody who can't find some fault in | nbo\:ux;. He leaned so far to the left | their husbands or wives, or who gets one e to get the full effect of a | movement that he slmost fell out olfi 31;35 Z“wfi’:’mfld.;:&fi:‘lfi“.gfi his bench. That attracted Miss Anne’s | the future in some way. eye and she said, “You, little boy—" * X % X “Lothario,” put in Miss Maria. OH, YOU can always find plenty to Nothing is truer than that what we g0 out to seek we find. If we hunt| for trouble, we discover it on our| “Yes, Lothario, you read now.” Poor Lothario! Reading was the| last thing that had occupied his| thoughts. His book was closed. | Frantically he clutched it, only to| have it slide from him. At last he caught it up, opened it and searched | for the place. The class sat in peul-! fled amazement. Lothario, the head | of the class, losing his place! | and holds his book and pays atten- ! tion.” A rustle and a stiffening an-) nounced that all present were good | | scholars. Lothario, crimson to the| | ears, hurg his head and said never a | word. | Miss Maria edged close to Miss | card, she whispered, “He's the best reader in the room. He lost himself m admiration. You know he never saw you before.” S Let this be a warning to all teachers and inspectors and mother-guardians who, in pursuit of their duties, test their children’s accomplishments. Let the test be undramatic. Make it mat- ter of fact. Let the work in hand take the center of interest. Keep yourself, your feelings, your expressions in the | dim background. (Copyright. 1935.) My Neighbor Says: Cover small delphinium plants with excelsior or pine boughs be- fore putting on dried leaves. | They do not pack or stay damp | | as leaves do. | Before putting away garden | | tools for the Winter, clean them off, rub with. kerosene or grease and store in a dry place. ‘When pressing neckties, cut a piece of cardtoard the shape of the tie and slip inside of fit. Cover tie with a cloth and press with hot iron. There will then be no marks left by seams and | | hems. Put the fork in the fat of | | steak when turning it. If put | | into meat, the juices will escape. (Copyright. 1935.) on every, room in gloom about if you are bent on making yourself miserable. But you can always find plenty to be cheerful gbout if you will go on a still hunt for happiness and are determined to grab it. You can look on the bright side just as well as on the dark side. You can learn to laugh things off in- stead of making tragedies of them. You can make the best of people and of things. You can even put your | “I'm afraid you are not a good ' heartbreaks behind y vith | | you and go on with | scholar. A good scholar sits up tall a smile on your face so that you | will not make life sadder for other people. It is only the cowards who whine and howl and complain over every cloud in their skies. The brave go on singing through the rain, thanking In these hard times it seems to me that a woman who has a good husband, a good home, a mother willing and able, to help her and who yet complains about being unhappy should be ashamed to look at her face in the mirror. DOROTHY DIX. Broiled Sirloin Steaks Escalloped Potatoes Bread and Butter Sandwiches Sliced Onions Gingerbread Coffee Fried Ham and Hashed Browned Potatoes Cabbage Salad Buttered Rolls Currant Jam Grapes Chocolate Loaf Cake Coffee Browned Hamburg Escalloped Corn Graham Bread and Jam Sandwiches Pickles Mustard | Drop Cakes Pears Coffee Steak, Onion and Tomato Slices (Kabobs) (Cooked on Long Sticks) Buttered Rolls Jam Assorted Fruits Sugar Cookies Coffee Meat Loaf Escalloped Potatoes Sliced Cucumbers and Tomatoes | Bread and Jam Sandwiches Pumpkin Pie Coffee Olives Scrambled Eggs and Bacon Potato Salad Pickles Jam | Buttered Bread Doughnuts Coffee | Apples Spread crisp potato chips with horseradish mixed with cream cheese Anne. Under cover of handing her a| @04 for whatever blessings they have. | anq chili sauce. Work quickly and spread lightly and use for accompanye ing cocktails. j * ¥ ¥ % DEAR MISS DIX—I am a boy of 18 years of age and will finish high school this year. My parents wish to send me off to college, but I want to attend a college here in my home TRUNKS—"ze o4 Saddlery Repairing of Leather Goods G.W.King,Jr. 51111thSt.N.W. Freok ammsenm; BERRIES | Qe Free recipe cards at gro- cery and frult stores selling the house ! Sold at All Good Paint and Hardware Stores GULOENS T is the ‘ most flavorful MUSTARD The Secret ofa ClearSkin Daily use of CuticuraSoap | Before retiring bathe the face freely | withhotwaterand Cuticura Soap, using plenty of Soap. Rinse with tepid and finally with cold water. Containing medicinal and soothing properties, Cuticura Soap keeps the skin clear and in good condition. Price 25c. | | 1T"S PERFECT! That's what | women are saying about the hew | “Certain-Safe” Modess. Itends the | old fear of embarrassing “acci- dents.” Its longer tabs can’t pull loose from the pins. It can't strike | through. It's so much safer and | aofter than the old “paper-layer™ | | type of napkin. Try it! |