Evening Star Newspaper, April 23, 1933, Page 39

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D.. C. APRIL 23. 1933—PART THREE. Left: Very new turban of black cire satin, with red flowers in the top drapery. Right: Hat of cotton boucle straw in gray. It navy bluo. grosgrain is trimmed with ribbon. Hat has a brim of black Milan straw, while the crown is of satin jersey trimmed with pipings of satin. Square-Shoulder BY SYLVESTRE DORIAN, Director of the Paris Fashion Service. The writers of the Paris Fashion Bervice, who rotate as contributers to this series of articles are the fol- lowing: Agnes-Drecoll, _Bruyere, Cheruit, Heim, Lanvin. Louise Bou: langer. Hubert. Paule-Madoc. Martial Mol Rose Descat, Rouff. Marcel Paray. 3 PARIS, April 15, HE grande saison, which be- gins right. after Lent and lasts until the spectacular week of racing in June, is one of the greatest social activity. All Paris, and that includes the smart foreign population, has returned from the Riviera, or has arrived from Amer- ica. Managements of concert halls put on their most impressive concerts; the opera and theaters are thronged with smartly gowned women and their es- corts. At the smart hotels and tea rooms there is a constant coming and going of elcgantly dressed clients. The races are patronized more than ever at this season. The couturiers have always sent their chicest man- nequins to the races in the newest and most striking costumes, but society of many lands also congregates at Long- ¢éhamps and Chantilly to see and be seen. Paris has been unusually fortu- nate this Spring in having more than the average number of brilliantly sunny days—always an incentive for smart dressing. In going about during this festive geason I have been interested, not only in the individual costumes which I Rave seen; but in the style trends as they are exhibited. Let me enumerate a few of these. First of all, of course, is the square-shouldered effect. The Whole style world seems to have gone mad with epaulets, . cartridge-pleated sleeves, box-lines indicated by fur, Gib- son girl tucks—in short, every con- ceivable device is being used to give shoulders the square, wide look which we connect usually with the 90s. It is interesting to note, however, that a certain number of couturiers, realizing that not all their clients can adopt this style successfully, have in- troduced other methods of sleeve treat- gent. Among these are the full sleeves, close pleated at the shoulder line, and flaring into fullness near the elbow. In other cases, the shoulder itself is plain, and pleats are inserted the sleeve in such a way as to bring fie width about half way between shoulder and elbow. Then, of course, there is the raglan sleeve, cut in one with the shoulder, seen most often on the new swagger coats, that are becom- Ang more popular every day. * kX X% A NOTHER interesting trend is the = movement toward back fullness in Zoats of every kind. I should not like 2o saf that fitted coats are out—far “rom it—but particularly among the ‘younger women, there 1s & great deal of interest in coats, both long, knee- Jdength and waist-length,, in which leats are introduced in the back, or fullness is introduced in other ways. “Prequently these coats’ are made on & ~circular yoke, flaring smartly outward Jfrom this line, or falling in straight wand very new lines. Length is also gimportant. While the majority of coats “are still long, there is a noticeable stendency to interpret them in various “lengths. I saw, for instance, one very smart costume at the races at Chan- tilly, of thin blue woolen, cut on the Z2straight lines that are so_smart this L season, and worn with a short flaring A$acket of blue and Jacket was hip length and the wide Schiaparelll. Magg Rochas and Lucile Effect Captures Style World sleeves were the fashionable seven- eighths length. Of course, one cannot speak of trends very long without coming to the sub- ject of hats. They have staged a verita- ble revolution in their scramble after height. Chechias, peaked Tyrolean caps, and high-crownéd canotiers have swept into fashion oz} a wave that seems likel$ to, engulf the shallow crowns popular for past seasons. Every- where one goes, whether to tea, to the races, or walking in the Bois, one sees these high-crowned models, made up in every ceivable material. ~Stroll- ing through' the Jardin d’Acclimtation the other morning, I noted a very smart tailleur, a rough gray woolen, with epaulet ders, very short- fitted jacket, worn with a mannish blouse of deep red crepe de chine. And accompanying this costume was the inevitable chechia, made of the suit fabric, and topped with a tiny red yam ball. EE HEN the canotier is chosen, as it often is, it may have the shallow crown of recent seasons, but the very newest ones have a high crown, some- ;im!ts higher in the back than in the ront. At tea the other day I was inter- ested in some of the ccstumes. One which I found especially good looking was in very heavy black crepe maro- cain, a fabric to which the Parisign has an undying devotion. The molded skirt and the cowl-necked bodice were of the marocain, but the sleeves them- selves and the underarm section cf the bodice were in one of the featherweight woolens that Paris likes so much this season. The sleeves fitted the arms closely to the elbow, then flared in great puffs. The woolen, by the way, was in a pattern of black and white. ‘Worn with this smart costume was one of the newest models of canotier in a very eoft, shiny straw. And, carrying out the note of white in the costume, it had a narrow band of white -pique with ends concealed under a black galalith buckle. The hat was tilted well forward, in the manner approved by thé smartest women this season. Another very interesting teatime cos- tume, indicative of the season’s mode, was a taillleur in bright-blue wcolen, with revers, epaulets and bottom of the tight-fitted short jacket worked in an intricate design of fine tucks. W with it were a huge bow of plaid taffe and a very severe, stiff little fez of the same color. (Copyright. 1933.) Filling Out Contour. ONE reliable craftsman says that hairdressing is becoming much fuller. This mode offsets the stovepipe hats which have a tendency to make the face look longer. A certain round- ness is needed to fill in and meet the present style in hats. This artisan is a great believer in the “sculptured” ap- pearance and in individualism. All of us have attractive assets. One person may have lovely eyes, another a deli- cate mouth—and it is up to us to en- hance the beautiful things. Another who believes thoroughly in making the most of your type says that “beauty is no longer judged by conven- tional standards.” It is very true that every woman is endowed with means of attaining charm. Needless to say, by pr?er treatment and care the lights and gloss in your hair can be rought out successfuily. This is of vital im- at Models for Spring Season Silk, specially processed to look like kid, and washable, is uzed for the tur- quoise blue hat banded with brown end blue rib'on. Brown and blue cuffs match the hat. |Costumes of Real Chic : BY MOLYNEUX. ODERN life demands modern clothes. principle around which collec- tions are built. Life today is distinctly different than the | life of other epochs—it is more active, | more hurried, more intense. It is built around new modes of transportation— the airplane, the automobile, the sub- way. It is as far removed from the life of the last century as if it were on an- other planet. And that is why I feel that it is quite incongruous to go to the past for inspiration for modern cos- tumes. We are not Victorians or citi- zens of the French Empire. Our whole point of view, our whole manner of life is different. So our clothes should be different. They should reflect the spirit of our modern architecture, of our modern transportation. I realize, above all, that the woman of today demands practicality in hec costumes—not the dull, monotonous practicality of the woman without imagination, but the same daring prac- ticality that has made your American skyscrapers. The very word chic which we apply to modern costumes, is ex- pressive of this new spirit in the world. It is an indefinable word, so closely allied to the life of today that we understand it when we cannot give 8 meaning to it. I cannot imagine any one applying this expressive word to & costume of the Second Empire. or to the rich, elegant gowns of the nine- ties. It is a word that can only be applied to the cleverly designed cos- tumes of the present, with their perfect adaptation to the requirements of modern life. * K k% IN my opinfon no costume can be considered chic that does not meet the needs of everyday modern life. A draperies, or hampering fullness, coulc not under any circumstances be calied chic. A dancing costume, with skirt 50 swathed that the wearer was unable to move freely, might be beautiful 2s 2 painting on the wall is beautiful, but I would not call it chic. The reason— chic is closely allied to practicality. In other words, the designer of today must place himself with many limitaticns. He can't drape and wind fabrics about a model as if she were an Egyptian mummy without motion and life. He must remember, every step of the way, that the woman who is to wear his creation has an active, intense life. A rcal artist does not chafe at such limitatiqns. He welcomes them, for it becomes a real test of his powers to create within the bounds that have been placed for him. Let me illustrate: 1 may be creating a street costume. Good taste dictates certailn limitations. The color must be subdued, the lines must be such that the wearer can move freely, there must be about the costume a simplieity in harmony with the sur- roundings. No woman wishes to be conspicuous on the street. Perhaps 1 still further limit the costume by de- ciding that it shall be a dress ard Jjacket. ¢ Within those limitations I to create. I study the various that are before me. I choose the one that for its simplicity, its durebility, its subdued but beautiful coloring seems most suitable for the street costume. ‘Then I begin to build the design, keep- a successful garment for the street. ¥ may decide that the skirt shall be absolutely plain, with, however, suffi- cient width for easy movement, or I ite the effect of &hlnnen That expresses tie | street gown, for instance, with trailing | abrics | ing always in mind the limitations of | Chosen for Suitability moves, the pleat gives freedom. In de- signing the jacket, I am again bound by these self-imposed limitations. I may decide to make it of knee-length, or |1 may clip it off into a jaunty eton | style.” I may buiton it up in severe | tailored line, or I may let it hang | straight and boxlike. There is great ossibility, even within the limitations have placed on myself. * K * % N similar fashion, I create costumes for various other occasions, build- ing them up with an appreciation of the practical uses to which they are to be put. stance, though an entirely different problem from the daytime dress, must also be designed to meet certain re- quirements. ‘Women, I feel, in building up their own wardrobes, must learn to impose limitations exactly as the artist does. In assembling 3 daytime costume, for example, they must think of it in terms of the transportation they will use, of the places they will go. The woman who must go to a formal tea by means of the subway will not dress in velvets and Jaces. Instead, she will choose an equally chic and beautiful dress, which will not be incongruous and out of harmony with her surroundings, when she is obliged to make use of such democratic means of transportation. She will be dressed quite as charmingly as the woman who can wear more elaborate garments because she arrives at the tea in her limousine. A New York skysPraper is as beautiful in its way as a Venetian palace, but each is impressive only when in harmony with the proper surroundings. It is not a difficult matter to assem- ble a smart wardrobe, even when one is limited financially, if one will keep in mind this matter of artistic limita- tions. A few frocks chosen for their dist'nction of line, their suitability for the uses to which they will be put, are worth dozens of elaborate, poorly selected costumes. One simple, beauti- fully made frock of excellent material and cut is to be preferred to three or four inappropriate ones, of poor de- sign and tawdry fabric and trimming. The clever woman of today accepts the necessary limitations in her wardrobe, and, like an artist, proves her skill by developing costumes of real chic. (Copyright. 1933.) 'Swirls Molded Look. ANGS, if you can wear them, are very good with certain of the new hats. One stylist often cuts half-bangs to fill out the contour—to round out that space just over the temples. Your back curls should begin at the hat and swirl to one side, generally to the left (because of the contrasting angle of the hats), and a soft, wavy look is desirable. If you are a blond it is especially important that your hair has that “easily molded” touch. ‘The hair may be brushed back off your “face. A designer claims that “nothing is straight down.” In fact, even the is curved to suit your individual contour. If your head is inclined to be flat in the back, turned- up curls are . Otherwise flat curls and little ringlets are better. The same artist has also designed a gracsful fashion for the new and larger Sum. An evening gown, for in-}, Of Personal Interest To Washington Residents Mrs. Charles Goldsmith spent last in ll!:w York wm‘; her sister, Mrs. and was a guest &t | the Imhems%esdly at the Hotel , given by the Women’s Di- vision of the Federation of Jewish Phi- lanthropies of New York, Mrs. Pranklin D. Roosevelt was the guest speaker, and Mrs. Herbert H. Lehman introduced the various speakers, including Mr. Julius Adler, Mr. August Belmont and Mr. Alexander Kohut. Mrs. David Himmelblau of Chicago is the guest of her mother, Mrs. Les Mantner. ‘The Woodmont Country Club held a ladies’ golf and bridge tournament y with a luncheon. The Com- mittee on Arrangements was Mrs. Theo- dore Peyser, Mrs. David Simon and Mrs. Jesse Miller. Attractive prizes were given for both golf and bridge, A large-company, including many out-of- town guests, were present. Mrs. Jerome Saks has as her guest Mrs. Dorothy Saks of New York, for- merly of Birmingham, Ala., in whose honor she entertained at an at home Monday night. Mr. Saks is in Houston, Tex., for a two-week visit with his mother, Mrs. Samuel Saks, who is spending the Winter with her son-in- law and daughter, Mr. and Mrs. Leon Meyer. Mrs. Leonard Weil has returned to her Philadelphia home after spending Easter with her mother, Mrs. M. Her- man, Mr. and Mrs. Theodore Peyser had as their guest Easter week end, the latter’s lyalhker, Mr. Francis Loeffler of New ork. 5 Miss Frances Raum Walsky will re- turn today from Asbury Park, N. J. where she visited Judge and Mrs. Louis ‘Tueman for 10 days. The Ladies’ Auxiliary of the J.C.R. 8. of Denver, Colo., will hold its next meeting in the Community Center Wednesday afternoon, May 3. It will be in keeping with Mother's day and an elaborate program has been planned. Miss Sylvia Govern of New York spent the Easter vacation with Miss | Rita Rubenstein and will return to her home today. Miss Helen Strasberger left Wed- nesday for Atlantic City to spend a week with her brother-in-law and sister, Mr. and Mrs, Milton Kadden, who are there for several months. Miss Ruth Bobrow of Philadelphia is the guest of Miss Marjorie Sigmund at the Roosevelt. Mrs. Herbert Jacobi, with her two children, spent Easter week in Norfolk, Va. with her parents, Mr. and Mrs. Jacob Bennett. Mr. and Mrs. Victor Strasburger, who motored from their home in Norfolk, Va., and were guests of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Meyer at the Broadmoor, have returned. The Sisterhood of the Eighth Street Temple will hold their regular mcet- ing tomorrow afternoon in the vestry rooms. Election of officers for the en- suing year. Mrs. Harry Lewis,”who has been their president for three years, will preside. Mrs. Isadore Blum of Detroit was | the guest of friends in the city during the past week. Mr. and Mrs. Frank Applestein of Baltimore announce the engagement of their daughter, Ethel to Dr. Herman Norman, son of Mr. and Mrs. Max Norman of this city. Mrs. Sidney Weidenfeld and daughter Phyllis and Mr. David Frank of New York were recent guests of Mrs. Birdie Erlebacher of Woodley Park Towers. The tenth annual father-and-son | tanquet of the Temple Brotherhond will take place on Thursday night, y 18. On Tuesday afternoon, Hadassah, will hold a linen shower at the Com- munity Center, Sixteenth and Q streets, for the benefit of Palestine hospitals. Each person donates a sheet. An elab- orate program has been planned, fol- lowed by a social hour with several members acting as hostesses. Mrs. Sadie Grosner was the guest of honor at a luncheon Friday, when her daughter-in-law was hostess at her home. Mrs. Pauline Grumprecht of New York is the guest of her cousins, Mr. and Mrs. A. Cohn of the Westchester. Rev. Dr. J. Bookstaber of Harrishurg, Pa, was the guest of friends in the | city the past week. Mr. and Mrs. J. A. Weinberg had as | their guests for the Easter holidays | Mr. and Mrs. R. H. Jennings of Orange- | burg, S. C. and Mrs. David Lowen- | stein of Norfolk, Va. Mrs. Henry L. Schultz, who was the guest of Mrs. Eugene Schwab for six weeks, has returned to her home at Long Beach, N. Y. Mrs. Sidney West. who has been in Switzerland for the Winter with her two | Baltimore last children, Alice and Sidney, jr., who are NEW IMPORTANT ENGAGEMENT ' Whose sister, Miss Jane Hamer Welch is also the of Mrs. D. M. MISS KATHERINE WELCH, . Welch, announces her engagement to Gen. Stanley | Ford of Columbus, Ohio. THe marriage will take place in July. Miss Okert, Wyoming Apartments, this city. —Bachrach Photo. at scheol there, is now in Paris, where} her daughter, Alice, joined her for her ‘ Easter vacation. ! Miss Nancy Goldsmith has spent ten i days in Pittsburgh as the guest of Mr. | and Mrs. Nathan Kaufman. | Mrs. Estelle Reiser, accompanied by friends, motored to Reading, Pa., Priday | to spend the week end visiting relatives. | Miss Deborah Mae Liebman is return- | ing today from Philadelphia, where she | has been the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Alfred J.' Goldsmith. Mrs. Isadore Kahn, with her sister, Mrs. F. Jacobs, spent the past week in Atlantic City. . Mrs. Morris Gusdorf was hostess Fri- day at cards, entertaining eight ladfes | at her home in the Ponce De Leon. Mrs. Harry Hollander has returned to her home in Pittsburgh after spending | the Winter with her son-in-law and | daughter, Dr. and Mrs. Joseph R. Pal- kin of the Broadmoor. | A party of young folks motored tc ' t night to attend the Spring dance given by the fraternity Pi-Tu-Pi. Mrs. Edgar Pike of Texas, who is the guest of relatives in Baltimore, motored here Friday to visit friends. | As the closing for the year of the Camille L. Lyon Cultural Group, lec- | tures at the Community Center on Tuesday morning, Mrs. Herman Hol- | lander will give an interesting talk on | “The Jew as a Moral Force,” which will be followed by a luncheon of 50 with an elaborate program. Opening prayer | by Mrs. Isaac Greenbaum. tribute to Mrs. Hollander, Mrs. Harry Levinson: | songs by Mrs. Carolyn Schoenthal. and | readings from Emerson by Mrs. B.| Weindorg; poems read by Mrs. Hol- | lander and a resume of the year's course by Mrs. Harry Roller and clos- ing prayer by Mrs. Otto Wolf. Mrs. Belle Rothschild is visiting her son-in-law and daughter, Dr. and Mrs. William Greenspon in Bluefield, W. Va. Mrs. Claire Powdermaker of Ridge- wood. N. J., is the guest of her son | and daughter-in-law, Mr. and Mrs. Syl- van Powdermaker of Buchanan street. ‘Mrs. Sarah Levy and Miss Carrie Hart returned the early part of the | week to Wardman Park Hotel from a ' two months’ trip abroad. Mrs. Levy Diamonp Tints has as her guest her sister, Mrs. Aaron Levy of Tallahassee, Fla. Mr. and Mrs. Frank Simon and Mr. and Mrs. Lewis Kann have returned from a motor trip to Atlantic City. Miss Natalie Sternberg was hostess at l:t bridge party at her home last night. “SACRIFICE” MATRICIDE BEGINS LIFE_SENTENCE “Meek"” Slayer Brings to Prison | Supply .of Religious Tracts and Pictures. | By the Associated Press. FRANKFORD, Ky. April 22.—John H. Mills, 33, was brought to the State Reformatory here yesterday to start serving a life term for the “human sac- | rific>" murder of his mother, Mrs. Lu-' cinda Mills, near Tomahawk, in Martin | County. With him 'were Ballard Mills, 19, grandson, and Blaine McGinnis, son-in- | law of the slain woman, sentenced in each for her murder. | John Mills carried a supply of relig- ious tracts.and picture cards. He was| allowed to keep the pamphlets, but the pictures were taken from him. Prison | officials described his demeanor as| meek. |‘ MAKES CARROT RECORD | | 30 Tons Grown on Tract of Less| Than Half Acre. MOUNT VERNON, Wash,, April 21| (#) —Here's a carrot growing record | for the committee collecting world's | records for the Chjcago Exposition. County Agent V. J. Valentine has & certificate that P. M. Sather grew | 60,210 pounds or 30 tons of carrots oni ?mt-h.u acre of land, lacking 10 square eet. it Massachusetts Folk Celebrated Patriots’ Day Wednesday evening, April 19, the Massachusetts Society of Washington celebrated Patriot's day commemorat- the battles of Lexington and Con- &'d with a reception, dance and en- tertainment in the main ball room of Many of the Massachusetts delegates to the Daughters of the American Rev- olution’s national convention, which was held during the past week, attended and participated in the reception which was given in honor of Senator and Mrs. Marcus A. Coolidge, dersecre- tary of State Mr. Willlam T. Phillips and Mrs. Phillips, and the new Repre- sentative from Massachusetts, Mr. Arthur D. Healey. Senator Coolidge made & brief ad- dress, referring to several incidents in connection with the Battles of Lexing- ton and Concord, Paul Revere's ride and the “Spirit of *76.” ‘Mr. Frank E. Hickey, president of the society, made an anncuncement that the preliminary arrangements are being made for the annual outing and dance which is to be held in com- memoration of the second important battle of the American Revolution, that of Bunker Hill, which will be held June 17. Details will be announced later. Episcopal Church Home Benefit Card Party ‘The Episcopal Church Home for the Aged benefit card party being held at the Willard Hotel tomorrow afternoon at 2:30 o'clock has every prospect of being largely attended. Additional patronesses ‘are Mrs. J. E. Mayfleld, Mrs. Laura D. Dann, Mrs. Devereux Green, Mrs. William H. Schofield, Mrs. William Channing Johnson, Mrs. D. Kindleberger, Mrs. C. F. Ogilby, Mrs. J. H. Boyden, Mrs. Lewis Marcey, Mrs. Arthur B. Heaton, Mrs. C. Marbury, Mrs. E. Todd, Mrs. William Sleet, Mrs. C. Claggett, Miss Susan Hacker, Mrs. J. N. Saunders, Mrs. Pembroke Pitt, Miss F. Howard, Mrs. A. A, Hoehling, Mrs. B. N. Graham, Mrs. Camp Stanley, Mrs. Harvey Wattles, Mrs. James Hen- derson and Mrs. Dwight Galt. INDICTMENT DELAYS TRIAL OF MITCHELL Superseding Document Will Mean Postpofiement Until May 1 or 2. By the Associated Press NEW YORK, April 22—A super- seding indictment, combining charges contained in two indictments ded up previously, was returned by the Federal grand jury yesterday against Charles E. Mitchell, former chairman of the National City Bank, charged ;v;;g income tax evasion for 1929 and Handing up of this indictment. ac- cording to the Federal attorney’s office, will mean that Mitchell's trial, to have begun Monday, will be postponed until May 1 or 2. GUNNERY RECORD SET Heavy Cruiser Squadron Retu to Port From Battle Practice. SAN PEDRO, Calif., April 22 (#)— he new, heavy cruiser squadron of he scouting force was k in L T TR YRR TR RPRRE TR T | b AR rt po! last night after having g:fsbushed Az new gunnery record for modern cruisers in firing of division battle practice this week off San Clemente Island. | Martin Circuit Court to serve 21 years| Detailed results of the exercise can- not be published, but staff officers de- clared that the 8-inch main batteries of the six 10,000-ton “treaty” cruisers punished the speeding target rafts as great range with such remarkabie accuracy that “the results exceeded even our fondest hopes.” Ships firing inciuded the cruisers Augusta, Chicago. Northampton, Ches- ter, Louisville and Salt Lake City. s San BEER PRICE TAKES DROP One Place in St. Joseph, Mo., Sells - 12 Ounces for Nickel. ST. JOSEPH, Mo., April 22 (#).— Rival beer sellers have increased the size of the glasses until one place now offers 12 ounces of brew for a nickel. At first the price was as much as 10 cents for six ounces. et your KRR b of e NO BOILING NECESSARY The sensation in feminine affairs these days is— DIAMOND TINTS! The marvelous new kind of tints disc'overed by the makers of the famous Diamond Dyes. The women who have tried Diamond Tints are simply amazed at the beautiful results they give. They say they’ve never seen anything like these delicate Diamond colors. They give even a much worn garment the lustrous colorfulness it had when new! And last! They last through weekly launderings that ruin ordinary colorings. There’s no boiling, you know, Just rinse or dip. Now if you didn’t get your free box last week, here’s another chance. Tear out the coupon below and take iv to any drug store. Many drug stores have a Diamond Tints sign in the window this week. Choose your color from the color card. Then give it a trial—and you’ll agree that Diamond Tints are different from any tints you’ve ever used before! This is your last chance to get a free box. Make this coupon mean new beauty, new economy. To the druggist: Please give, entirely free, to the undersigned, one full size box of Diamond Tints as designated 1Color [0 Dismond Tints (Regular) for all fabrics. o Special Diamond Tints for lace-trimmed silk; leave lnce uncolored. Name........... “THiS OFFEE GOOD ONLY UNTIL MAY 3