Evening Star Newspaper, April 6, 1932, Page 30

MAGAZINE PAGE Bicentennial, Springtime, Mr. Hoover's admonition not to hoard the dollars and shops full of the fascinating clothes—all this seems to be a combination fuite irresistible and as contagious as fever. Everywhere new things are tempting the Spring shopper; new colors and fabrics, slight changes in the silhouette from Winter, and every- thing is most interesting and exciting Things are looking up in the fashion world. Hets have an upward tilt at the back and left side, suit skirts are ex- tending up beyond the waistline, neck- lines are higher for daytime and eve. ning, sleeves are in all degrees of short- ness, and even the skirts are a little shorter for morning and sports than we saw them during the Winter. At any rate, they are narrower, and that makes them appear shorter. Eleven inches from the floor is given as a good aver- | age for town wear. Lanvin and Schia- parelli vary a half inch or so, the latter | favoring the shorter length We see the military influence in the | dashing blues and vivid reds, both sep- | arately and in combination with each | other and with white, a tri-color effect being particularly smart. The roundsil- | ver buttons, both flat and spherical, in rows on double-breasted coats are a further indication of things military, as | are broad shoulders, jackets buttoned | all the way up to the throat and many | other details. Sleeves are indicators of style innovations with dropped shoul- s, pufed upper sections, puffs at wrists, raglan and variations of the | kimono cut; long, short and three- | quarter and, in fact, any kind that is becoming and seems best adapted to the rest of the costume. Of course, the underlying principle of the liberties taken with the upper portion of the sleeve is the b lening of the shoul- der line. ‘The outstanding color for Spring is blue—all shades of it from midnight, navy, cornflower, Wakefield and West Point on through the scale to pale blue lace for evening. Patou sponsors two blues, midnight and medium, and they may be used together or te, for day or evening. Midnight blue, how- ever, is a formal color, and the medium and bright blues adapt themselves read- ly to and general daytime uses. Patou has a delightful French n{lo( touching up some of his navy blue dresses and sults with strawberry pink, and, in fact, this kind of pink is used in_many contrast themes. Beige is attracting more attention than usual as a Spring color, and is used extensively for the whole ensemble, | or ccmbined with various shades of AT LEPT: THE POPULAR GREEN SHADE WITH BLONDE FOX. AT RIGHT: LIGHT BLUE DIAGONAL WOOL. ONE OF THE NE' WHITE AND BLACK SATIN. 'WEST FROCKS, OF AT LEFT: A ‘WOOL. There is a_greater variety of coat| designs this Spring than ever before. And remember that & coat I8 not just somet] to keep ont chilly Spring breezes; it is a garment to be chosen carefully, and what a thrill there is in getting just the right one! Seasonable Suits. EVIRYDODY says it's a suit sea: 8uits with short jackets, the beil- hop kind or the loose boleros; suits with | SPRING BUIT OF BRIGHT RED AT RIGHT: DARK BLUE BILK COMBINED WITH into bands of elastic and tucked under{ to a three-quarter length, giving a cuffless effect, and a large collar of sil- | ver fox. This, worn with one of the| new, close, black, shiny straws and pat- ent leather shoes, was unmistakably Spring, 1932. While we are speaking of colors, one must mention a coat of rosy New colors and fabrics to tempt the shopper—The military mfluence—Pop- ularity of certain furs for trimming. Buttons for decoration—The various color combinations—Important acces- sories of the Spring By Margar ing lots of these in beige crepey woolens with the tapelets bordered with fox, or other less expensive fur. The advantag= | of these coats is that they may be worn without the capelet and a scarf used as a neck finish. The coats with these separate capelets usually have no fur on the sleeves. One very lovely costume. et Warner | buttons and they play an important part |in the trimming of the garment and | mould It snugly to the figure. It is not | uncommon to” see a diagonal line of | buttons above the belt and by means |of a cut-back, a straight line below it, | with another up of buttons. Even tweed has the blues this Spring. and a most attractive model was shown |in & mixture of rather bright medium |blue and white wilh broad revers | banded with a darker blue, a side clos- |ing and sleeves widening the wrists with deep squirrel cuffs. e fur had ppearance of being buttoned on to the sleeves. Another model with the jdea is in apple green boucle th double revers coming together at the center walst line, sleeves with | capelets banded in blue wolf and an | attached silk scarf in block design of | several tones of green and white. A very conservative dark blue coat has its scarf of self material and ite flaring sleeves trimmed with three-inch bands |of white fur, and no belt. There is & great variety in the navy blues and | blacks. 'The blues are usually combined | with blue or gray fox and the black with silver fox or galyak in black or | beige. | " Bpeaking of furs, Kolinsky is being hip-length jackets, quarter length coats, suits with sepa- rate blouses, long coats with one-plece dresses having the appearance of three- plece suits, and they come in wool and silk and lace, and are for all times of the day from the first littie shopping errand on through to the big date of the evening. ou must have a suit An attractive, bright red sports suit | is “collariess, with wide lipels but.on trimmed, the hip-length jacket curvine | up to the left side fastening, a narrow | black patent leather belt, epaulet sleeves | and worn with a wool plaid scarf and | black straw hat. Another attractive junior miss suit is in lapis blue with blue wolf bands just below the elbows and a throw scarf of the material. A very distinctive black suit has a yoke straight across the front and rounded down to the underarm seam. It is collgrless and & candy-striped scarf is tied in a large bow at the left shoulder The thm»?uaner flaring sleeves are finished in lovely sfiver fox, pointed to the elbow, and there was a separate silver fox scarf to be worn when desired. Another black suit has triangular insets of galyak, a high round neck and loose, short jacket. The suit skirts seem to be rather narrow and fairly straight, although some are cut to give a grace- ful flare. Many skirts are extended ebove the waistline, giving the new high-waisted effect. One of the latier type is in chartrevse woolen with four gores beginning at knee length. The cutaway jacket is very hign-waisted fastening at the center front with two suits with three- | | | BLACK WITH SILVER STRIPES SILK SCARF. FOX buttons. There is a” large beige fox collar and a blouse of chartreuse woolen lace. Pintucks are used quite exten- | sively for trimming and one beige suit | uses them most effectively in diagonal | lines over the entire sleeves, which are | wider at the elbows and then curve sharply into the wrist. The suit has a lei collar tied at the side. Another very attractive beige woolen | with a short loose jacket has one width | of kolinsky around the neck and con- | tinuing right down along the top of | the sleeves, which are three-guarter length and bell-shaped and banded with kolinsky The tops of the lapels are fastened to the fur, giving a raglan shoulder effect. The skirt is seamed down the center front and flares easily. An odd sports suit is of gray flannel with a collarless cape, a red and white checked blouse and a red patent leather beit. A very distinctive ensemble was shown at a recent exhibition of Paris copies. It was in dark blue woolen | with long coat, no fur, over a shorts| sleeved silk crepe dress of French blue, of which material the coat was lmed. Another suit in this collection was of very darkest blue rough Russian crepe trimmed with narrow bands of Russian ermine on the sleeves and had a blouse of lace and embroidery in alternating stripes. A gray bejge, putty color mix- ture in the same collection was severely tailored with straight skirt and plain hip-length jacket. When the model re- moved the coat, what had appeared to be a beige silk blouse, tied in a bow at the front, was In reality an applied section of a one material as the smart and a sprinkling of polka dots a high round necks to be worn with silk scarfs tucked under the front closing or left gayly floating, and blue beige are the favorites. In the sport siik suits are seen two very new modln’m | black. One has a bolero jacket in Tux- i?do effect over a white Vestlike blouse without fullness and a small bow tie at the neck with a diamond-shaped cut-out just below it to keep it from looking t0o masculine. There is & very wide dark red leather belt and two lary red leather buttons on the 'Paxeg: revers of the jacket. A somewhat similar black silk crepe suit has a white and black horisontally striped silk draped blouse with its To jacket firmly fastened in place by a large silver button on each side of the front at the lower corners As the season advances one will see more and more silk street suits, and among the exclusive models there are some unusuzl fdeas in the use of light and dark prints, where the jacket is of light figured material, like the upper section of the dress, but the skirt has the pattern reversed so that the back- ground is dark and the figures light One has to become accustomed to the light jacket on a dark skirt, but it is pleasing. Many of these suits use deep ke treatments, some having bows at he front—a style only for the “slivers,” the most slender figures One more blue suit comes to mind. It is very saucy, with a short, loose jacket, sleeves cut to extend along the shoulder to the neck, two tiny pockets and a red blouse with small white floral pattern. The blouse has large revers edged with harrow loops of the material, and they hang outside of the coat and form its trimming. With this is worn a bright red hat and a red patent leather bag. A very sophisticated dark blue crepe suit with surplice closing drapes its long ends firmly about the figure and ties gracefully in the back. A wide- bottom_sleeve section is set into the dropped shoulder and edged with wide, fluffy pale beige fox. The skirt i8 slightly circular. With this is worn & closely twisted turban of dark blue and Eggshell slip-on gloves, & snakeskin bag and snakeskin shoes complete this costume. Still another very delightful suit is of the most heav~ enly light blue woolen, beautifully tai- lored, with & blond fox collar close to the face, and the wide fur bands that you would expect to see on the sleeves are put on the pockets instead. Newest Dresses. T is sometimes difficult this season to determine at a glance whether you are looking at a dress or a suit, so many of the dresses have something that is detachable, like a capelet, redingote or whatnot; but you must admit that the " (Continiued on Seventh Page.) — FRESH / STRAWBERRY off-white. coat has a capelet which starts | o | teatured as a high fashion fur and i ‘mn on the right side and gradually | higl and is | especially good with the beige< and Ice Cream .1 tied; AT LEFT: THE USE OF A DIAGONAL WOOLEN MATERIAL, WITH BEIGE FOX. AT RIGHT: BEIGE WOOL WITH KOLINBKY. | brown, and it is particularly chic when | apricot woolen trimmed with fluffy fox used with black, a combination having | dyed a lovely creamy beige. many Honey does putty color. ibilities and much_dignity. eige, sandy beige and pale but- | ter beige all belong to this family, as | The Spring Coats. OATS are of immediate interest, for with & well chosen new coat and Apple green, April green, moss green, | becomirig hat, presto—you are changed all are welcome at this time and sug- | from Winter into Spring in a jiffy and | gest the freshness of the new season. | ready to go places and do things with | The writer saw a newest of the new |y feeling of confidence. The variety of | Spring coats in a lovely soft medium | coats this Spring is simply amazing, but | green with huge puffed sleeves gathered ’ they may " A e g, 7 T . WHITE LINEN WITH MESH YOKE. BONE AND CORK BUTTONS. be classified into certain | groups, the chief differences to be noted | | in_the collars antl sleeves. Fashion is | | fickle in the matter of fur, and when | she puts it around the neck she leaves | | it off the sleeves, and when she lavishes | | it on sleeves the neck is quite bare. In | | fact, she does not even allow it to have | | & collar at all. There are other coats | with no fur, and depending on unusual | cut and scarfs of self or contrasting material. ‘There are coats with adjustable cape- lets. The Washington shops are show- lengthens as I curves around the neck | | and down to the left side, at the waist- | | line, so that from the front the effect | 18 of two diagonals of fox. Another type { of coat, also of beige, is in the much | favored collarless style with surplice | closing which ties without a bow at | {the left side. The sleeves are wider at | the wrists and have wide bands of fox pointing up to the elbow. The | ! collarless coat is being shown a great | deal in the shops, but it s a style not | becoming to all and usually needs the | soltening effect of a scarf of some sort. A stunning coat is of dark brown diagonal woolen, well fitted to the figure | and beitless, with an interesting bolero capelet of stenciled lapin over which | hangs an Ascot tle of the coat mate- rial. Ancther of the neckline treatments is a black galyak cape on a black or navy blue coat. On= has its cape fastened in the front with long pointed ends of the fur loosely the sleeves are regulation and there was a belt of the material. An- other brown wooly crepe coat of a very youthful type, has a creamy white fur collar, narrow in the back and forming wide deep revers in the front. The cuffs were fashioned by a series of inch- wide tucks at intervals extending to the | elbow, trimmed with buttons of the material. used on suits. The arrangement of buttons on the coats is an interesting feature and aceents the varying lines of the clos- ings. The buttons may be in several groups of three or four each, or at | equal distances, but there are alway: Eopullr removable | This type of sleeve also is | PARTEL FLOWERED BSILK WITH gl&%gx VELVET SHOULDER NORWOOD COFFEE Mild, mellow and smooth with a full bodied goodness that-is rare. Try it—1it satisfies. C.D. KENNY CO. 408 12th S.W. Branch Store, 3rd and Penna. Ave. S.E. National 0395 1892---1932 For 40 years - - every package has been absolutely guaranteed "SALADA" TEA “Fresh from the Gardens” Watch for Anniversary Sale prices at your grocers | browns. It is used e: sively for three and six skin separate scarfs as well as coat and suit trimming, end is love | “Black coats with white trim are ways popular. There was one black coat that had a stitched vine design in | white that was different. and another that had a V-shaped white galyak col- |lar that was very smart. | The sports coats are usually inclinea to the military, being in many in- stances double-brensted, button high, | with or without collars and more sleeve interest than is usual on the plainer | | coats. For instance, the writer saw one | | light blue diagonal woolen coat with a wide tuck from shoulder to waist.em- | phasizing shoulder breadth. The small collar rolled into the doublc-breasted | closiny There Was a wide belt of the material and three large silver buttons on each side of the front, rather widely | spaced Then there are the ever popu- | 1ar polo coats, alwave in demand by the | younger contingent. And this seascn | they come in several colors in addition | | to the usual tan. 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