Evening Star Newspaper, April 19, 1931, Page 49

. THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, APRIL 19, 1931—PART THREE. Heavy white satin is doubled and cut on the bias to make the luxurious lounging pajamas above, with their metal belt. right is a dress of green shantung, On the trimmed with gold buttons. Fate of Sartorial Departure Hangs in the| Balance as Parisian Dressmakers, Having Launched New Mode, Await Verdict of » Women of Fashion. | Paris, April 10. | PROBABLY no sartorial question Ili as alive at the moment as that of | the fate of the pajama. The Paris | couture has come out very definitely for it for wear at all hours of the day, feminihe is the half glimpse of the velled ankle than the biatant exposure of the leg to the knee, to which we have become accustomed in the last few years! It was only & few years ago that | 15 Wear Is Revolutionary Dress Movement The clothes sketched on this paze were designed by Chanel, and selocted by her for the Herald Tri bune, The evening gown above is of white crepe romain, with shoulder straps and belt of strass. House Dress of Cotton Follows LLead of d the modern house dress losely in the path of the * * oK x MANY of the new cotton dresses “'" show a color contrast that gives as well as for the more intimate loung- | pajamas were considered a novelty that ing hours, in which environment it has | bordered on the bizarre. Since then come to be taken rather for granted of | we have become accustomed to beach Sports—Has as Much Claim to Dis- them unusual distinction, late. The verdict must b> given by the | mass of women themselves, and for | that Paris must wait for reports from | the four corners of the earth. It is true that no such revolutionary movement ever has started out with such general backing—never have the Paris dressmakers been so completely behind such a change. It is also trw that women im Faris have apparently decided for it, and whether you step | into the salons of the big designers or | the workrooms of little dr-ssmaker you will find each busily engaged on a pajama garment for some hour of the day or evening. The native Parisienne and the foreign visitor to the capital apparently have taken pajamas to their hearts. What the women in other parts of the world will do is still & moot | question. ESIGNING has even tfaken into consideration the timid woman who wants the effect of pajamas but hesitates at the actual trousers, | for “trousers” is what it actually comes | to, according to the dictionary hich may sidered a sign of the victory pajama. But we must get bac pajama effects which are not pajamas. Skirts for every hour of the day are making use of the deep inverted pleat, back and front, which is the favorite method of disguising t real trouser cut. Thus they achieve the effect of pajamas, while allowing their wearer to feel conservative. | One may well ask, why the pajama, | §f it must be so carefully disguised? And there is no answer, unless it be of fashion. For most of whether for evening or can be distinguished as when the wearer takes long step or displ All during the d hear a buzz or reation trying to to whether or not r_bifurcated model. In many case direct questioning of the mannequin settied the problem. ACH house has a characteristic method of cutting these garments. Schiaparelli, for example, makes many of hers with a tunic to the knees, the trouser effects showing only as deeply pleated extensions below. Lucile Paray, on the other ha daytime _outfit verted pleat rate back p: motif for with the the front and a sepa- th uses the same in certain of his rs us's a semi- overskirt, 15 accompanted by of shorts. Other houses prefer o use a separate skirt, slit front and back usually, over the trousered effect, which in these cases usually 18 marked by the deep inverted pleats. In all cases the trousers are sufficiently wide to have much less in common with the mascu- line type than they have with skirts, whether velled by a they are always o to identify OR evening, filmy skirt or not. o0 full that it is di them, the fullness obtained by means of inset godsts, pleated sections and all the known agtifices of bringing fu ness to hems. Dut it also must be re- membered that it is usually true that these full-skirted trousers are slit at wvarious places to give a glimpse of the ankles. munlwkueo(um;ton "" “‘1! to » end the ees, or if longer are also And how much more . chooses to make her | deep in- | pajamas, and to trousered d'interieur. But the idea of their use as garmen for formal wear belongs to the scason | of the Summer, 1921. D. L. M. Wedding Day Lore Still Holds Sway supposed to be a good omen to have thz sup shine on one’s wedding day. Apparently the omen is eepe good if the day is cloudy and the comes out for an interval at the of the wedding ceremony, or as the e | and groom return from church or start out on their wedding journey. | It was once considered a good omen | if the bride wept on her wedding day. | If the wedding takes place in church | it is bad luck, according to an old Eng- | lish superstition, for the bride and groom to go out by way of the chance) or vestry door. To insure good lu: they should go out the main door of church. There is a superstition to the eff that the girl, who reads the wedd ceremony from beginning to end, never be a bride herself. Old-time brides used to put plece of broken bristie in t when they were going to be married This was supposed to insure them against the possibility of having a scold- ing husb: A crum of ealt heid in the hand or tuck the glove at the time of the weddin; ceremony used to be regarded as guard against possible poverty after marriage. At most weddings even reference is made to the f one who catches the bri whon she tosses it t be the one next w old superstition to the eflect that maid who wore the pins v the br: d pinned her veil would b the married. Girls on their wedding days st ingly carry out the suggestion in’ the old lines bidding them to wear “Something old and something nev Son;:thlnx borrowed and something ue.” Tobes | | | | | t the bouquet stairs w What Do Noses Show Of Characteristics? 1t is true that singers frequent lar in the win too, that singer: begin with, rati ate a | acquired in the course of their training [ broad noses of the sort described. Jenny |Lind had a nose that was even ugly. {The nostrils were broad and the ridge | though epacious was flat. This forma- tion was said to be especially favorable to a soprano voice | Napoleon Bonaparte chose men large noses for responsible cause as it wes explrined lowed free snd full i reby kept the However, am sesscd quite sm tioned Peter the son, Oliver W. Holm: Thackeray. b Width between the eves is said to | indicate ability in judging distances and |and are certainly soft and frilly look- marked in | ing. conditions. It was especiall ‘Washin, was an_able surveyor, an excellent judge of con ' | gunmetal tinction as Any Other Part of All-| Day Wardrobe. Reason for Change Found in Attention Given by Designers to Sports Styles. —— | BY MARY MARSHALL. | HE very thought of a cotton house dress once filled the well | ressed woman With feelings of 1¢ she did some of her | | own housework she probably | wore one during the busy hours of the | day, but she made a quick change if w announced, and she would e thought of doil g an marketing in her r in this cotton work dress t as so entirely lacking Paris Fashion Cable OLYNEU Thurs ces and of p latter wer eight wool suits with linen, or wi en coats and wool skirts length and seven-cighths lengt coats of a number of st lined the depth of the bloi material to match i, mainder of the lining being material, matching coat in Evening g in crepe aded with g re- those of 1 in Lashes Painted i'o Match Hats lnm gradually this situation has ged. And the present-day cotton A new idea in make-up was noticed house dress, though most reasonable in Auteuil recently. Old-fashioned | price, often has good line and as much | a was replaced by a new product | claim to smartness as an expensive light green, just tk de of the sireet dress of light wool or silk. It iny hat of the blond wearer. Her eyes is, however, just as appropriate and | were blue-green without this new lash | comfortable as the clumsy dress it re- in tatus of the cotton house dress | er ‘its influence. What the poor |in the | brunettes are going to do to keep up|is partly due to the rise and recogni- with this fad is & question, but there | tion of the sports dress—which, in turn, probably will be some colution so that|is due to the fact that fashionable | d not be deprived of indulging | women golf and tennis and tal fashion. orts of outdoor sports tha r comfortably adjusted clothe: t and skill of the greatest dress designers here and abroa cted to producing spor are at once appropri at the Qcmane epe cut on ! The uite | g ound b rlapping le that ], like a rather flat 1 ended in the belt at cithe Boutonnieres are If you can afford fresh flowers much the better, But if you feel that too much of a drain on your purse every day, do not go out in the new Spring suit without some sort of a but- tonhole ornament to match the trim- ming detail of the costume. One of the most amusing novelties noted at the Ritz recen a perky little boutonnicre made of the tinfest tubes | ch ome edged in black, ms were carc- as if they were “Snubs and Romans are plentiful | enough,” says Miss Creevy in Dickens' | “Nicholas Nickel “and there are flats | of all sorts and sizes, but perfect aquilines, I am sorry to say, are scarce, generally use them for uni- and public characters.” en been observed that 1bar of famous men and wc ave had aquiline noses and that is | doubtless because, as students of physi- ognomy tell us, the aquiline mose be- tokens & good 'intellect, with & more | than ordinary force of purpose. Charle- | magne, they say, had an aquiline nose, and so did Christopher Columbus. Among_writers_there was Defoe, the author of “The Pilgrim's Progress,” as well as George Eliot and George Sands, both of whom, it must be admitted, had noses a little too beaklike to be “per- fect aquiline.” The girl who has an aquiline nose may have walted In vain for an Amer- | | fcan writer of modern novels or short tories to portray a fair heroine possess- g this type cf nose. Rather small, ght or slightly upturned noses seem | to be more in demand nowadays. Still the nose that is like an eagle's—for | aquiline means, of course, eagle-like— | has had its admirers in literature. Edgar Allen Poe scems to have re- garded a well formed aquiline nose as more beautiful even than a Greek nose. apped in tinfoil rs. {en I gray, so e become Either | or a slightly bronze effect are popular shades to accompany black, Matching the footwear, if the frock is in & color, is a new fashion. Dark wine, navy, brown snd bottle green stock- ings are ummeual, but undeniably ele- gant. stockings Scallops Reign a scallop y e of the jack suits are ts of the silk two- lioped all about the | s irts show scalloped closings, @ but= ton and buttonhole in each curve of scallop. Collars of blouses are often scalloped, | her | & The front closing of many of the tai- | When he describes {a, who was his blouses are scalloped, buttoned | ideal of beauty as wel of Intellect, lored like the skirts already described. he says: jowhere but in the graceful attached to a l4ip yoke which is a con- | tinuation of the lighter bodice section, or the skirt and lower portion of the bodice, with a deep bodice yoke of a shade. Brown pique is com- a soft yellow pique in this blue pique with white n and white and deep rose milarly combined, the materials used for a group lly useful W 1 Summer finds plaid or checked ging- ton broadcloth, white or col- ored’ pique, cotton shantung and linen. Voile, batiste, lawn and swiss are used for dresses of a sheerer sort that many women will wear this Summer as they might have worn silk dresses in seasons. Some of the new cotton or linen dresses are made with accompanying jackets that extend their usefulness. sually these Jackets are of a darke: shade than the dresses. A white dress bi way que. vhiite are d‘- ham, may have a short straight jacket of the these di are eved with a long- ko % ERE are quick descriptions of wash- cotton or linen frocks that are lly attractis one-piece white linen sleevek with trim waist line and collar- Ib«m -neck line worn with a short of red linen. g dress of navy blue and white flock- ot A figured print cotton pongee with a clrcilar skirt below a well fitting hip yoke. A dark tone of the print is to pipe small pockets and the ite organdie collar. A white lawn dress of simple design elbow sleeves with a_sleeveless ct of blue lawn. The collar of the 15 also of blue lawn and is worn he collarless neckline of the little medallions of the Hebrews have I be- held a similar perfection—the same scarcely perceptible tendency to the aquiline, the same harmoniously curved nostrils speaking the free spirit And Balzac in describing his Mme, la "Chanterie—one of the most of all his women characters— that she had “a rather sweet cefi with a soft, coldly colored com- an aquiline nose, a hazel eyes and a double chin, t whole framed in curls of silver hair.” s & Giies Cleaning It seems too bad that there are not women who could be hired by the day to come and clean the clothes that can- not be put through the ordinary laun- dry process. To be sure, fine frocks should be sent to the cleaner, but there are many garments and accessories of dress that need occasional cleaning that could be taken care of at home at a much smaller expense than sends ing them to the cleaner. Yet it would be most unusual to find & laundress who could attend to these garments of who could attend to the pressing of silk and woolen garments that need such attention. The result is that most women have to attend to these mat- ters themselves and they eventually come rather efficlent at it, de jacket with elbow sleeves made | 8 swiss_with white organdie collar, | a | shadow, and they became quite green |placed. This really significant change | pockets and sash. organdie collar benign | ‘The darker | section may comprise the skirt portion hite Hat With Matching Scarf | | The number of Parisian women who have decided that they want some sort |of scarf to match their white hats is | almost as large as the number of those | | who have suddenly blossomed forth in | white headgear. Just as headgear has been almost uniformly black for several | years, or at least definitely matching the outfit with which it was worn, so has the white craze swept over the | feminine world. Looking down the stands during the races at Auteuil one aw that more than half of the women ore pure white hats, exclusive of those | who wore white and black combina- ions, which accounted for half the emainder. Many of them had some | sort of white scarf, varying in material from white fur to pique or even cro- cheted straw. Most of these scarfs tied snugly around the throat, sometimes with rather a large bow, or again just the perky ends. softer material they were often looped | over the ends, held by some sort of pin. Mme. Schiaparelli wore a coat of black wool crepe, fastened with the little metal snappers in silver which she uses this season. They are much | like overshoe clasps. The collar of her | coat.was cut like a tiny dolman. Under it & white pique kerchief with black dots was knotted in front. Mme. Le Monnier was seen wearing a tricorne in black bangkok bound with matching grosgrain. It was raised high on the head at the left side to show the hair and two tiny white plumes were used as trimming, also on the left side. Sailor hats are beginning to be no- | ticeable with the advent of sunny day. | while they remain classic in type, brims | are likely to be tipped one way or the other to add to their becomingness. Occasionally & ribbon band slips through and ties in a flat bow at the back un- derneath the brim. Another novelty seen was the knitted white hat, worn with & brown suit, which was finished all around with a band of brown crepe de chine finely pleated in something that dimly resembled a Charlotte Cor- day effect. An eye veil also appeared on_this hat. One of the novelties that are almost too intriguing for the feminine heart to resist are the new fichus that bring back all the souvenirs of grandmother’s day, with just a sgggestion of dried lavender, and yet are essentially modern. One of the loveliest seen is in the finest of tulle in & creamy shade that goes perfectly with the motifs of old lace that are appliqued all over it and make & solid border around the fichu. In reality this fichu is a deep shawl collar in form and is finished with two tie ends. The lace, needless to say, is as delicate as a cobweb. Such a fichu makes the perfect finishing touch on & black dress, be it crepe or georgette, and is decidedly effective over colors as well. e New Shoes Some of the new shoes are most at- tractively cut with straps to hold them firmly over instep and at the sides of the foot. Sometimes a silk tie is used at the front—just for the sake of orna- ment, of giving that dainty feminine touch that is nowadays essential to our being fashionable. ‘When they were of the | The black mousseline evening gown above is trimmed with black lace. Flesh-colored mousseline is used around the neck. On the left is a dress of green jersey with pique collar and cuffs. Them On. T was on & gray, rainy morning that we called on Mille. Gabrielle | Chanel, two days after her return from Hollywood, where she has been making plans for designing clothes for the pictures. We called to ask her to make a per- nal selection of her favorite models. | This she graciously consented to do. The evening dresses do not show a very low neckline. Extreme decolletage is eschewed by Chanel herself. She showed her own evening gowns that she brought from Paris. In a closet full of them every one was either black jor white, and all were made pretty much after the same pattern. They | were of satin—"brilliant satin,” as shi described it—of heavy but pliable tex: P ERY short sleeveless boleros were a feature of Chanel's own evening | dresses. Some were square across the | bottom, others were cut in two scallops across the front. With no opening in efther the front or the back, the boleros, which were separate from the dresses, were slipped on over the head. They had the same modest round neck- lines as.the dresses. “Do you not like a low decolletage?” we asked her. “Not for myself,” she replied. “I like to be comfortable in my evening clothes, as in all other dresses, and I should not be comfort- able if I had to be thinking all the time of the decolletage of my dre: On the other hand, if a woman likes to expose her beautiful back, she should do so, by all means. Every woman should wear the sort of dress that makes her happy.” P ,SKIRTS of Chanel's evening gowns | were made in what seemed to be | hundreds of tiny gores, nothing at the waistline. In length they reached just to the ankle. “I can't imagine a long evening dress, except for state occasions,” said this interna- tionally famous designer. *“One would need two for an evening, if they are to touch thé floor, for who wants to wear a dress with a soiled hemline? Also, feet should be shown—most feet are worth looking at. They add greatly to a woman'e beauty.” | When we brought up the subject of pajamas, Chanel went to one of her dress cl s and brought out her own te dinner pajamas, in soft white ‘The trousers were like a skirt t. The coat was made double. Mlle. Chanel said that she likes white satin for lounging pajamas because she finds the white refreshing after a day in her studio. She was careful to ex- plain, however, that she never wears pajamas except for intimate home din- ners, and that she has not changed her opinion regarding the pajama to wear outside the home. It is an im- | possible idea, she says. P (CLOTHES for business women seem { to interest Chanel, and she volun- teered some opinions on them. | business or professional = woman's clothes should be simple and comfort- able. Her daytime clothes should be s0 much a part of herself that she will be unconscious of them after putting them on in the morning. After having made the best possible choice of clothes, & business woman should be able to forget her clothes during the day. It lessens efficiency to be fussing with your dress during.the hours de- voted to achievement. In the evening, however, the woman executive should shed her daytime manner and her day- time dress. From the time she leaves her office or studio she should be all feminine, her clothes should be soft and have considerable frou-frou,” as Chanel expresses it. .o . ‘HERE has been c¢¥gment and con- trgversy in this chuptry about Chanel's expressing _her: 80 un- favofbly on the subject & printed matetials. We asked her iff it were true that she did not favor thgps and she replied that it was. " She'gh | ture, and with a surface of high sheen. | tapering to | Chanel Favors Modest Necklines and Shorter Skirts for Evening—Woman Should Be Unconscious of Her Clothes After Putting that they have been so cheapened that they cheapen dress in general. And as for prints on stout women, are terrible. They make them look fat in the wrong places, she says. Prints sr::uld be worn by the tall and slender only. Chanel loves sheer fine materials and feminine apparel. There is one chiffon, from her own mills, that she uses in 600 different shades. At the present time she manufac- tures all kinds of fabrics in her own mills and she is planning to establish offices in various parts of the United | States for their distribution in this | country. Empress Eugenie Inspirer of Hats Easter hats are as varied as suits. In millinery circles Spring, 1931, has been joccsely referred to as “This year of face.” But we must report that New York women are showing & decided lik+ ing for trimmed hats. . To accompany the most formal sult or ensemble the hats like those worn in the days of the Empress Eugenie have been revived. Perched high on the head, with a delightfully flirtatious tilt | over one eye, they are trimmed often- times with feathers, and are extremely fiattering when worn by the right pers | son in just the right manner. ‘The sailor, a rather severe style, has | been joyously accepted, especially by the | very young. And, a near relative of the | sailor, there is the cup-and-saucer hat, with a very shallow crown, which looks | for all the world like an inverted tea- | cup, and rather small brim. The white feather is shown by a good | many hats; that is, the trimming of tiny white feathers, either bunches of | little quills not more than 2 inches long or a more sweeping soft feather gil‘m‘:(ed low at the side and toward the ck. The halo hat, talked about so much early in the season, is gaining in popu- larity. Usually it is made of knitted | straw or silk, and the halo is of braid |or ribbon in'a corasting shade. Ine | deea, ail types of knitted hats are im< portant, either in silk, wool or straw; for straw is knitted now, with the vogue for knitting hat crowns and turbans. ‘The many patent leather accessories in the way of belts and purses have called forth the hat of rough, shiny straw trimmed with cire satin ribbon. + Flowers are everywhere in the newl millinery mode. They perch beneath and above the brims of the hats with tilted brims, and they encircle the tricot turbans which perch far back on their wearers’ heads. B | |Olive Juice Used to : | Make Hair Lovely There is a new sort of scalp treate ment that sounds rather absurd wheny you first hear about it, and looks evems more amusing when you get the hsir! dresser to administer it to you. Ivs known es the olive treatment and cop-; sists in rubbing the scalp with olives, squeezing them so that the juice of the: olive serves as a tonic applied to the Toots of the hair. We are not quite surs whether ripe olives or the usual greem sort are used, and probably it doesn't | make any difference. Not long ago & beauty doctor*in Ger- many devised an excellent face lotion | that was similar in all cssentials to what we know as mayonnaise dressing. It wag |an emulsion of egg yolks and olive oik and lemon juice, with various soothing ingredients appliediin place of red pep= P roBably shere are othe ¢ ly there are other produci the food larder that would prove t'; 35 useful in a cosmetic'way. Corn starch uddlnfmuhz prove to be & most sooth~ saterkrat: Khr‘.’z“m&""g'&"fi'&"“w ouf - less blosch for freckles, S