Evening Star Newspaper, December 14, 1930, Page 98

[ 8 Leaders Lived at Old Kirkwood House BY JOHN CLAGETT PROCTOR, NE of the oldest hotel sites in the downtown section of Washington is that occupied today by the Hotel Raleigh at the northeast corner of Pennsylvania avepue and Twelfth street, in the same block with The Evening Star Building. Judging by the fact that the old Tiber usually came up to within a block of the Avenue and sometimes even crossed it down toward Tenth street, one might assume that this part of the Avenue was low and marshy land, and yet we find that one of the first houses built along that thoroughfare was erected by William Thompson of Georgetown somewhere between the Raleigh and The Star Office. Jacob Hines, brother to Christian Hines, was then Thomp- son’s apprentice at the tinning trade. Of the early building operations on Pennsyl- vania avenue Christian Hines in his “Early Recollections of Washington City” says: “Among the first houses on the Avenue, as well as I can recollect, were the following: A three-story brick house between Eleventh and Twelfth streets, built by William Thompsun, esq., of Georgetown. Here he set up a tinner shop before the house was finished. My brother Jacob, who was then an apprentice, carried on the business for him. This house was some years since occupied by Pishey Thompson as a book store. The next house built, I think, was that of Mr. Stettineus near the Washington Bank; then one by Mr. George Thompson of Georgetown, followed by one by Mr. Sparrow, and Messrs. John Kennedy, Mr. Morin and Mr, Sessford, in the order of their names; then Mr. N. Queen’s tavern (sign of the Indian Queen). This was followed by Davidson's Hotel, Bates' auction store. Travers’ bakehouse, between Eleventh and Twelfth streets, and then a two-story brick house by Mr. Woodward.” Mr. Hines also tells us: “One of the first brickyards that I remember was carried on by two brothers named Voss, between the Avenue and E and Eleventh and Twelfth streets. The first two lumber yards that I can call to mind were those of Capt. Byas, near the bank of the Tiber (now the canal), and Mr. Morin, on the Avenue, near Mr. Lepreux’s grocery store. Here the delegations of the different tribes of Indians would ‘put up when they came to ‘Washington, which was almost every session of Congress for several years.” Thus it can be seen that this area got an early start in a business way, and in a few years it became quitz a center for merchants, most likely because of the wharf facilities at the head of the bay in the Tiber, where now stands the new Department of Commerce Bullding. This is quite evident from the number of firms advertising their wares even while the city was in its infancy, and by 1843 we find in the City Directory the names of 4 number of those engaged in business who be- lieved that prosperity came through adver- tising. IN the vicinity of the Raleigh in that year we find this advertisement: “STATIONERY WAREHOUSE. WM. F. BAYLY, Pennsylvania Avenue Between 11th and 12th Streets, Washington, Agent for HERRICK & BLUNT, 203 Pearl Street, New York, Wholesale Importers and Dealers in English, French, and American Staple and Fancy Stationery, in all its varieties. The trade supplied on the best terms. and at the lowest prices.” Close by was William Pischer’s “Fancy and Staple Stationery” store on Pennsylvania avenue between Eleventh and Twelfth streets. Muller & Moore were in the same square, with a2 large assortment of paperhangings, of which they say: : “Have constantly on hand a large assortment of Paperhangings suitable for parlors, halls and chambers, with bor- derings of every description and of great beauty, to match; also, a magnificent supply of superior firescreens, which they also make to fit chimney places.” Enoch Ridgway, the slater, was up the street 8 block at Eleventh and D streets, and a door or two west of Eleventh was Joseph H. Boyd, the upholsterer and paperhanger. Robert P. Anderson, bookbinder and paper ruler, was at the corner of Pennsylvania avenue and Eleventh street. On Pennsylvania avenue at Tenth street on the site where now stands the Franklin National Bank in the corner building of what was formerly known as Vernon Row was J. C. McGuire’s bindery, where he agreed to execute his work “at prices as low as can be done in New York or Boston.” Be- tween Tenth and Eleventh streets, a few doors east of Harvey's old stand, P. Kinchy kept a eonfectionery store, where he always had on hand “confectionery, preserves, cordials and cakes of every description. Ice cream, jellies and Charlotte Russe prepared at the shortest notice.” This was in 1843; so0 it is evident that Jce cream had made its appearance in Wash- ington many years before. In this same square R. Patten & Son are an- nounced as the “Manufacturers of Mathemati- cal, Optical and Philosophical Instruments,” and they also carried in stock “a general fssortment of Surveying and Engineering Instruments of the most improved construc- tion.” Samuel Lewis was also. among this group of merchants, manufacturing silver plate, spoons, forks, jewelry, ete. On Twelfth street down by the Canal Bridge =~now B street—Ulysses Ward had a lumber yard, and four doors west of Twelfth street on the south side of Pennsylvania avenue J. W. Gaither manufactured “Jewelry and Silver Ware in the best and most fashionable style.” To those interested in police matters we find in Magistrate Clark’s advertisement that the andwmmlmomeew-ttemm GHE BUNDAY STAR, WASHINGEZON, . €, DECEMBER M, 1930, Andrew Johnson Was Sworn There A fter Assassination of Lincoln—First K nowon as Fountain Inn and Later as Fuller’s and Irving Hotel—Site of Shepherd’s Centennial Building Where Pension Of fice Was Housed. Andrew Johnson, who was sworn in as President of the United States in the Kirkwood House, April 15, 1865. side of Pennsylvania avenue between Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets, along about where is now the Municipal Building. INCE that date many changes have taken “place in this locality and other businesses have come and gone, even years before the present occupants arrived. M. W. Galt & Bro., jewelers, were formerly—that is, more than 50 years ago—farther east on the Avenue, near the Metropolitan Hotel, and prior to the Sum- mer of 1881 The Star occupied quarters near the southwest corner of Pennsylvania avenue and Eleventh street, to which place it had moved in 1854. This site is now covered by the Post Office Department Building. Where The Star is now located we find in 1834 the apothecary shop of W. Kirkwood, and on Twelfth between F and G streets Kirkwood was keeping a boarding house. According to Allen C. Clark, Gen. John P. Van Ness and his bride, Marcia (Burnes) Van Ness, after their marriage in 1802 rented a house on Pennsylvania avenue, now 1109 and 1111, prior to moving to their own residence at 1202 D street, almost opposite. This may be the house that was built by Mr. Thompson and referred to by Christian Hines. Washington was then decidedly a “City of Magnificent Dis- tances,” for there was then not a house stand- ing north of L street on an approximate line of Twelfth street, and even as late as 1850 this area was quite suburban. The Raleigh site did not have its beginning as a hotel corner until 1821, when David Appler opened there the Fduntain Inn. However, in “the early days of Washington the hotel pro- prietors seem to hawe been almost as transient as some of their cAtomers, for some hostelries changed their nantes and proprietors every few years, and 50 in 1832 we find the Fountain Inn being sold at auction, and it was a few years before being opened again, and then by Azariah Fuller, the proprietor of the Mansion House, where is now the Willard. Here Puller was conducting the place as the Fountain Inn when Dr. James 8. Gunnell was appointed eity post- master by President Martin Van Buren, and transferred his department to this corner. The place seems also for a while to have carried the name of the City Hotel, and also as Puller’s, or Fuller's Hotel. Dr. Gunnell succeeded Dr. William Jones, approval, according to what the Intelligencer had to say on the subject: “Again the gulllotine is at work! And now as always, when the odious spirit of political intolerance demoralizes and desolates society, the heads of the worthiest and the most honor- able in public stations are the first that fall under the axe. “When we heard a few days ago of the re- moval from office of Dr. Wiliam Jones, the postmaster of the city, we were struck with surprise, because we had never heard of any objection to his official conduct, and because we had no information of his being obnoxious to the members of the present administration. Not being apprised, however, of the cause of the removal, we supposed it possible that the President or the Postmaster General might have had some personal reason of which we could know nothing, and of the sufficiency of which we therefore could not judge, for making the change. We heard it rumored, indeed, that the ground of his removal was a suspicion of being friendly to Mr. Senator Rives, and not as de- cided a supporter of Locofoco principles as he was in duty bound to be, But we could not believe that the President would sanction his removal on such grounds, however certain per- sons of his privy council might desire it. “The mail of yesterday, however, brings us information which leaves no longer room to doubt that a ruthless and vindictive war is to be waged not only against everything like in- dependence in public officers, but against all such as are suspected of not using their offices to the best advantage for party purposes.” Amk Dr. Gunnell re_eelvod his appointment he lost no time in removing the Post Office, as the following announcement in the Intelli- gencer of June 29, 1839, shows: “The Washington City Post Office is this day removed to the corner of Twelfth street and Pennsylvania avenue. “J. 8. GUNNELL, Postmaster.” Dr. Gunnell remained in office only two years, being succeeded as postmaster on July 10, 1841, by his predecessor, Dr. Jones, who soon afterward moved the office from this corner in the following order: “The City Post Office has been removed from the corner of Pennsylvania avenue and Twelfth street to the large rooms ugger Carust’s Saloon at thé corner of C streef@orth and Eleventh street west. Applications for letters and news= papers will be made at the west entrance om Eleventh street.” The Fountain Inn was a small building and not equal to Mr. Fuller's patronage, and so in 1847 we find him removing the old building and replacing it with one more modern and up-toe date, five stories high, with 72 rooms. Two years later J. Thomas of the Howard House, New York, was operating, the name having been changed to “Irving Hotel.” Just 11 years later we find another change taking place. J. H. and A. W. Kirkwood were then engaged in operating the “Kirkwood House,” and The Star of September 16, 1858, gives us this information: “A force of mechanics is busily engaged mak- ing alterations in the Kirkwood House at the northeast corner of Pennsylvania avenue and Twelfth street northwest, embellishing and otherwise improving it. In recent years this has grown to be one of the most popular hotels in the United States and its proprietors have gained Nation-wide reputations. “It was suggested in The Evening Star that it would be profitablz for the owners the property adjoining the Kirkwood House form a joint stock company, embracing in M possessions their houses and lots, as well as the present hotel, gll of which ceuld with come ‘paratively little expense be so remodeled as #0 quadruple the capacity of the hotel. “Throughout the ' recess of Congress this Summer the Kirkwood House has been crowded with guests. If its capacity had been muclf greater it would doubtless have been kept for no other public house is better establis! among the habitual visitors to the metropolis. “This hotel, now known as the House, was erected in 1847. In that year building on this site, occupied by the Fountain Inn, was torn down and a four-story hotel building was put up. It was first known Fuller's House, later as the Irving' House finally as the Kirkwood House.” i F course, of the earlier hotels which have occupied this corner, the Kirkwood wa# the most historic, and yet as early as 1850 whilg the Irving House was still there the City Direo= tory gives the names of the following membery of Congress who made this hotel their homefl Senator William Upham of Vermont, Repre= sentative George A. Caldwell of Ken Charles E. Clark of New York, Andrew of Tennessee, William Hebard of Vermont, Johnt C. Mason of Kentucky, Joseph E. McDonald JTowa, J. X. McLanahan of Pennsylvania Lucius B. Peck of Vermont. Naturally the connection of the Kirkwood House with the assassination of President Lincoln has given it its most historic phase} and yet there was nothing that occurred hewd to the discredit of the house, though it was entirely through good fortune that anothe® murder was not committed beneath its roof af the time, for Vice President Johnson was also marked for assassination by the conspirators on the evening of April 14, 1865. Johnson was then making the Kirkwood House his home and, according to the eomm fession of Atzerodt, the plan was that Booth—s who made all the plans—was to kill the Presie dent and Gen. Grant, Payne should murdes Secretary Seward, while Atzerodt would either kidnap or dispatch the Vice President. Booth and Payne cafried ouf their part of the conspiracy as the circumstances perm: but aside from the renting of a room in Kirkwood House by Atzerodt on the morning of April 14, that person seems to have dome nothing worse than to have carried a message for Booth to Oyster Bay. Indeed, he evem denied that he had rented the room in the hotel and said that the firearms and black coat left there did not belong to him. Booth, it would seem, was not altogethes satisfied with the alertness of his fellow comn= spirators, and not only looked after his ows plans for the tragic event set for that meme~ orable Good Friday night, but even sought to check up off the dastardly job given %o Atzerodt to perform, and so we find him stop~ ping in at the Kirkwood House on that aftems noon and sending a card up to the Vice Presiw dent's suite on which was written: “Don’t wish o disturb you; are you at homef “J. Wilkes Booth.® Mr. Johnson was not in, and the note wall returned to the sender. This, together with the fact that Atzerodt got “cold feet” or relen disrupted the plans and saved the life of thé Vice President, and, incidentally, permitted Johnson to be sworn in there as President the United States the following morning | about 11 o'clock by Chief Justice of the Sge preme Court Salmon P. Chase. r AH‘IR taking the oath of office the Prests dent remained at thé Kirkwood but a shor§ while, and then, according to Ben: Pfi Poore, became the guest of Representatiy Samuel Hooper of Massachusetts, whose homé was where the old Shoreham used to stand &f the northwest corner of H and Fifteenth streets; which Mr. Hooper had purchased in 1863 from§ J. H. B. Smith, the son of Samuel Harrisos Smith, founder of the National Intelligencem, The President carried on the work of his officé in rooms assigned him in the Treasury Dee partment. Regarding the residence of President Jom after April 15, the day Lincoln died, there to be uncertainty, and the statement mdoh”a Mr. Poore of his movements is not question, for in The Star of May 25, 1865, wé find that after Mr. Johnson was sworn in he moved to the home of Attorney General Jamed S. Speed on I street between Thirteenth Fourteenth streets, did not take possession the public office in the White House until tha$ date, and that his family did not move imi¢ the Executive Mansion until much later. The City Directory for 1865 gives Secretas§] Bpeed’s address as the “War Department.” I 1866 his address is given as 284', H street, evi-