Evening Star Newspaper, December 14, 1930, Page 67

> ' dresses of this informal evening sort, White, Black, Red, Rose and Pink Are Extensively Used— All-White Dress Achieves Quality of Richness — Long, Flowing Drapery to Have Continued Popularity — Dif- ferences in Fabrics and Lines. I ntrg dresses— belonged to the same general _ classification. , of course, were ‘more gorgeous and more formal or more pretentious, gayer, or more sophisticated than others, but there was no definite line to distinguish them into distinct groups. Now there are two very definite sorts of evening dresses that differ from each other almost as much as a bathing suit, let us say, differs from a tennis cos- tume, or a sports suit from an after- noon gown. There are, in short, formal evening gowns that one wears to the opera or important evening receptions and dances or large formal dinner parties. And there are the other eve- ning dresses for which no really good blanket term has yet been devised. SU'NDAY evening dresses some people call them until they realize that they are more likely to wear them Mon- day, Tuesday or any night of the week than on Sunday. Cocktall dress—even 4 there were no Eighteenth Amend- ment—would be no better, since no dress just to drink cocktails, anyway. One might just as well speak of a dress or an hors d'oeuvre dress. In Summer we sometimes called BY MARY MARSHALL. HERE was a time not so long ago when all evening dresses— if they really were proper eve- e daylight dining dresses, and some- es, for no very good reason, they are called bridge dresses. ‘Whatever you call them, they prob- ebly play an important part in your Winter wardrobe and you doubtless need more of them than of the very formal, conventional type of dress that you wear only for so-called important occasions. & nl% e WEITE. black, red, rose and pinl these are the colors or tones that stand out pre-eminently among the for- mal sort of evening dress. And the present vogue for the all-white dress is | especially interesting. It is not a sim- ple little white dress of the rather in- genue sort. Far from it. It is a dress to which one is tempted to apply such adjectives as gorgeous, luxurious, ma- estic, magnificent. It is made of rather avy silk crepe, stiff satin or velvet, and, though retaining the slender lines that are essential to smartness, often contains many more yards of material than a dressmaker could possibly have made use of a season or so ago. And let me make this suggestion. If you are getting a formal evening dress of any sort this Winter that you hope to be able to wear next season, by all means choose one of the more voluminous sort, with full, long, flowing drapery. e e . OMETIMES the new formal white evening dresses are studded with glittering beads, sometimes they are trimmed with lace, but almost always they are entirely white, the only touch of color appearing in the jewelry— rubles, emeralds, sapphires or a com- bination of black and brilliants. ‘There is a definite drift of fashion away from black. But for formal eve- ning wear black is unquestionably im- rtant. Sometimes it serves as a kground for colorful jewels and sometimes the color note is achieved by real or artificial flowers. Some of the loveliest of the new black lace dresses show a suggestion of light pink or_rose. Red, rose and pink follow black and white in importance for formal eve- ning wear, and following these tones one should mention emerald green, turquoise, & number of light or bright blues, and a variety of luminous pastel tones that suggest the colors of precious | stones. | “ e AN important difference between the formal evening dress and the more practical one that you might speak of 25 an every night dress is one of length. ‘The formal evening dress must be long and very often shows an actual train, while the less formal dress rarely comes below the ankles or insteps, and may be even shorter. It is a very few inches t make a world of difference. Generally speaking, the formal eve- ning dress is made with a more pro- nounced decolletage than its informal cousin, which is almost never cut low at the back and frequently shows sleeves that extend over the shoulders to the elbows, or even to the wrists. There is a difference too in the fabric and general line of the two types of dresses. Stiff satins, gorgeous brocades, costly laces are chosen for the dress that you wear only for special occasions, while less expensive, more wearable materials are chosen for the evening dress that you wear on less ceremoni- Once in the Mode to cover uj blemishes %o what otherwise might have passed unnoticed. A woman I know who has s brownish patch on the side of her cheek merely calls attention to this perfectly harmless blemish when she plasters it over with liquid powder, and ls with freckles sometimes make iemselves Jook much more conspicuous snd not very pleasantly so when they their faces with powder in the eff to hide the freckles. Any sort of blemish that shows an sctual break in the skin should be kept covered whether it occurs on the face, hands, arms, legs or ankles where it may be seen through thin stockings. ‘The use of court plaster patches on the face began, I suppose, when fashionable ladies and gentlemen hit upon the idea of wearing small bits of 1t to cover their blemishes. Before the days of vaccination the face of many a fair lady was covered with pock marks. If there were just a few of these marks, the one or two that were most pro- nounced might be hiddern under a cleverly cut-out plece of black court plaster, that came to be looked upon @5 & mark of adornment. From time to time the fashion for eourt plaster patches is revived, but from our present point of view Jook well only on skins so clear that they do not sk:gx-t any sort of blemish lurking beneath. SRRy < e A Peach Cake. A left, black satin off-the-shoulder dress with tulle flounces and trimming bands. Next, center, a fited black velvet coat with voluminous white fur collar and one of the litile net a white crepe de chine with scalloped lines on bodice and skirt. At hats that are worn sometimes to keep the hair in order on the way to a party. Next, a beaded chiffon, and at the extreme right a rich metallic cloth. These are all of the formal evening sort. Say It With Something Appropriate for Every One May Be Found in Christ- mas Hunt for Such Articles — Jewelry Always Makes Ex- cellent Gift. ‘When it comes to Christmas this year you can say it with accessories and be sure of hearty thanks. Rich girl, poor girl, girl friend— there's something appropriate for every one. If the girl chum you are flattering with a gift this Christmas is a dainty, dancing little person, whf not give her some frivolous dancing lingerie? She probably is spending so much money for her frocks that she will welcome the gift of something awfully cute to wear under them. Among the newest things are the chenille dotted point d'esprit dance ities. They come with and without leres. You can get plain lace ones and dot them yourself if you have time. If you want an acceptable gift for the outdoors girl there are some of the ‘Two cupfuls flour, four teaspoonfuls powder, one-half cupful sugar, teaspoonful salt, two eggs, one vanilla, one teaspoon- ful lemon extract, one cupful milk, four uls butter, melted, and two g‘u&dul sliced fresh or canned peaches. the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. Add eggs, extracts, milk and but- ter. Beat three minutes. Pour over the peaches which have been placed in eased shallow pan. Bake 25 minutes down Y bits of hard sauce on top the cake Pelars it is served. Just The center figure wears a chiffon frock with et bertha and flounce. At the left with which a white bunny jacket the right is a white crepe. These Accessories cutest and most bizarre little sweater and cap ensembles. Get her a Russian one this year; they are all the rage They come plaided or striped, gay red th black and gold stripes, or beige | with red and black. They fasten up close around the neck, belt shut around the waist, and can be worn with knick- ers or jodhpurs or skirts. Every girl or woman always needs another purse. There are some novel ones this season that have a half-dozen colored prystal bracelet handles that are interchangeable. If you are wear- ing red accessories put on a red handle; if black, a black one. They are tricky as can and the purse itself is a smart pouch shape. Since jewelry is always an excellent | gift for an intimate friend or relative, there are various and sundry types of necklaces that should be considered. The very newest is the flowered lei, an idea taken from Hawaii. These neck- laces are made of white gardenias or colored flowers, joined to be the chief adornment of an otherwise simple party gown. With a white or black evening gown they are just delectable. And they are brand-new. Handkerchiefs always were a good gift. This Christmas you can get one of those big chiffon squares, in white perhaps, with a girl's name printed all over it in dots of different sizes, in col- ored letters, making it gay as well as personal. These are available in linen, t00, but the party chiffons are the ;&eéflest and make the most festive Any girl or any woman up to 100 will | welcome a fur scarf. Think how she would love it if it is ermine or lapin, with one of the latest jeweled knot pins or buckles. These give a sparkling beauty to the fur that makes the scarf luxurious indeed. An ideal gift for the gleaming Yuletide season. If it is earrings she wants—and many a little girl has had her ears pierced this season, just for a hint—there are new ones that use composition rubies in fascinating shapes, like pears or cabo- chon cut, surrounded with pearls, crystals or rhinestones. They are regal | indeed, and not a little exotic. If she smokes, and s0 many girls do nowadays, she probably has not seen to date the trap-door cigarette case made | of featherweight tortoise shell, trimmed |in gay modernistic manner with red | and black. This case fits into a purse or | pocket neatly and is really nothing at | all to carry. This Christmas for the first time in years and years hair ornaments are not | only in order, but they are appearing in the best heads. There is a new eve- ning coiffure pin to hold back those little curls over the ear, that is made long and a little rounded to fit the head. ‘These are set in stones of various colors. Quite the newest is the red, white and blue one. You can just take your pick. But remember when you are searching for accessories after the fact of Christmas that vou should choose something just a little different, just a little nicer, just a little more flattering than anything the recipient would be apt to purchase herself. Sponge Cake Cost Varies, But Delicacy Is Assured SPONGI CAKE is a great deum)'.l And perhaps it i more wholesome | than the richer, softer cakes. At any rate, it is good even without frosting, and certainly, served unfrosted, it be- | comes one of the simpler cakes. Regular sponge cake is rather ex- pensive, if eggs are high. When eggs are high, there are delicious variations on the regular sponge that give substi- | tutes equally satisfactory—and cheaper. Sponge cake is an ideal accompani- ment of ice cream or fruit, if you wish t serve something with them. More and more, it seems to me, ice cream is served alone, instead of accompanied by cake. But when you do wish to =erve cake with ice cream, sponge cake is decidedly the best choice. A regulation sponge cake that is worth trying calls for eight eggs and the weight of the eggs in sugar, half their weight in flour. This would mean | about the same amount of sugar and | flour, as there are two cups of sugar | to_the pound, four of flour. Beat the yolks of the eggs for 10 minutes, then add all the sugar, gradually beating it |in, and beat for 5 minutes more. Then | add the flour with three tablespoonfuls of strained lemon juice. When this is well mixed, add the whites, stiffly | beaten. cutting and folding them in carefully. . . The baking of sponge e very important. The directions for baking the cake just given say bake slowly for an hour in an angel cake tin. The cake may, however, be baked in bread pans. Most cooks don't grease the pan for a regular sponge cake, but flour it in- stead. If your sponge cake is too brown when you take it out of the pan, wrap three or four thicknesses of gauze or cheesecloth, wrung out of clear water, about it for 10 minutes. Remove, and you can easily take off the outside brown without tearing the cake. is, of course, a wasteful method, but is never- theless satisfactory. If you haven't any scales and wish to make sponge cake, use six eggs to a cup each of flour and sugar and two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice. Make ac- is a bl white satin frock worn, and above that a lovely short coat of ruby velvet, fur collared and cuffed. At dresses for informal evening wear, cording to the directions just given. Now there are two sorts of sponge cake calling for fewer eggs, yet really quite delicious. One is hot water sponge cake, another is cold water sponge cake. For the cold water sponge cake, beat the yolks of three eggs until lemon colored and creamy, and add a cup and a half of sugar, a tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar, a teaspoonful of grated lemon rind, three-eighths of a cup of cold water, and a cup and a half of flour sifted with a teaspoonful and a half of baking powder and a pinch of salt. When well mixed, add the whites of the eggs beaten stiff. Fold in carefully and bake in a not too deep bread pan for 30 or 40 min- utes. Or, if you wish, bake in a bigger, flat pan, for 25 or 30 minutes. For the hot water sponge cake, beat three egg yolks until lemon colored and creamy, then add a cup of sugar and beat well until blended. Then add one cup of flour sifted with a teaspoonful of beking powder and a pinch of salt. And when this is well mixed, add two tablespoonfuls of hot water. Mix, then add the stifiy beaten whites of three eggs and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Chocolate icing is delicious on sponge cake. You can make a good one by pouring a tablespoonful of melted chocolate on a cup of powdered sugar and then adding enough boiling water, drop by drop, to make a soft, smooth jcing. If you bake sponge cake in a big, flat pan, you can ice it and mark it off in square pieces and place a pecan nut on each square. Unfrosted sponge cake may be used as the basis for many delicious desserts. You can split it and add a layer of vanilla or chocolate ice cream and then put on the top, pour over it all a hot chocolate sauce. This makes a rich | but_delicious dessert. Or you may make charlotte russe. Line individual dessert glasses with small pieces of sponge cake and fill the glasses with slightly sweetened whipped cream, to which a few drops of vanilla have been added. Or piace four or five small blocks of sponge cake in a glass dessert dish, sprinkle with chopped nuts, cover with soft-boiled custard and top off with a teaspoonful of whipped cream to each portion. Queries. Among this week's interesting queries is this: “My mother used to make a delicious baked chocolate bread pud- ding. I haven't the recipe and don't know how to make one. Do you and can you tell me?”—Catherine B. Yes, indeed, I have known how to make chocolate bread pudding for years. ‘This recipe gives excellent results: Soak a cup of bread crumbs in a quart of milk for an hour. Melt three squares of chocolate with a cup of sugar in & double boiler and slowly add some of the milk off the kread crumbs until you can add it all. smooth, to the bread crumbs. Add also a saltspoonful of salt and the yolks of three eggs, beaten creamy with some of the milk. Place buttered baking dish containing this mixture in a larger pan of water and bake slowly until firm, in a moderate oven. Make a meringue of three egg whites and three tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar, beat well, pile high on the pudding, return to the oven long enough to brown. Chill and serve, (Copyrieht, 1930.) Mutton Stew. Cut two pounds of mutton into one- inch cubes, add cold water to cover, measuring it, and bring to a boil. Add six medium potatoes cut in eighths, six | fast, mnlm cut in !uh’ipl, six !mnllm 'w (2 , one small yellow tw cul three sprigs of parsley, two ubgn - fuls of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of pepper, two teaspeonfuls of sugar and three teaspoonfuls of dark caramel. Cover closely and simmer slowly for two hours, or until the meat is tender. For each cupful of water used, stir in one tablespoonful of ‘flour mixed smoothly with an equal quantity of cold water and stir gently until it bolls, Then cook slowly for about 10 minutes. 1f baked in the oven, add half COOKINg. to the time of 7 Holiday Aids to Beauty BY CHARLOTTE C. WEST, M. D. ‘When you're making out your Christ- mas list, don't forget to ask for a good complexion! Let's pretend it's the night before Christmas and you're getting ready for a very special party. First, don’t forget that the lavish use of makeup creates an ordinary, com- monplace effect. The object of cosmetics Metallic chifion with velvet bertha at top left, below it a black and white satin with white fur bands at the ell bows and at lower left a heavy white flat crepe. The full-length frock is white satin with lace inserts. Lace Frills Again? Lace edged slips have been bidding for favor for sevefal months. And now one of the important French dress- makers has gone a step or two farther by attaching frills of lace on the under side of a dark daytime dress in such a way that the lace cannot possibly escape observation. This is, of course, a rather impracti- cal arrangement, since the white or cream-colored lace would retain its freshness for only one or two appear- ances. If, however, this experiment succeeds in bringing about a taste for lace frills beneath our skirts it will be a simple matter to substitute a lace- frilled slip or petticoat for the frills on the dress skirt. Just at present it strikes us as a bit spectacular, but after all lace petticoats peeped below the hem of women'’s dresses at a time when women would not have thought of showing their ankles, and now that we have accepted the longer skirt it would not be at all surprising if before very long we accept | faghi the lace frilled underskirt as well. Bags and Slippers If you want to give a hand bag that will be sure to please and that will reflect your own good taste as well, choose one of the simple, medium-size shapes of fine suede that will be sure to Pleue and that look so much like real antelope that only an expert could tell the difference. 'Of course there are many other sorts of desirable bags but unless you are quite sure of the taste of the one for whom you are choosing it, a simple black suede is the safest selection. Satin mules with heel straps to keep them from slipping—that is a gift that almost any girl would like. If she is very young she will like them because they are so grown up and if she is not so young she will like them because they are so youthful. Black ones are always acceptable, but you may like the colored ones better. Jade green, rose, and a soft bright blue for instance. The heel strap is of gold or silver kid and a matching velvet bow to match the satin is placed on the front of the mule so that a size seven looks no larger than a three. FOOD PROBLEMS BY SALLY MONROE. Sunday Night Supper. The most informal and -irregular— and often the most enjoyable—meal in the whole 21 that most of us partake of every week is Sunday supper. Some e, of course, have dinner at night on Sundays, l&&hcy do on the other six days of the webk—then they have Sun- day luncheon—but that can never be so unconservative and appealing as Sun- day supper. If you live in a housc where one maid is employed, then one thing about Sunday supper that makes it different is that you must get it for yourself. And meal getting is rather fun when it 18 not an everyday occurrence. Moreover, there are sometimes very cholce foods that you do not like to have when there is a maid in the kitchen to eat a lon’s share. If you opened the new jar of imported pine- apple marmalade or strawberry jam when the mald was in, you fear that you ht find it nearly finished after she had taken her share. So you bring it out on Bundld'wlor supper and then carry it off to supply closet. Hid- den swe like those that are stolen, really are delicious. ‘Then are dishes that you want to eat but cannot find place for at any of the other 20 meals of the week. They aren't quite appropriate for luncheon, they would never do for dinner, and they are too st itial or too elabor- ate for breakfast. Some of them are old-fashioned dishes that have been crowded off the regular present-day bill of fare. Take powder bis- time enough to make them for break- and, besides, you do not like to eat hot breads just before starting fr on your dally work, There are all sorts of odd and interesting salads—too for a dinner salad, a little too cholce for every-day luncheon. Some- times the best sort of Sunday supper is the simplest one, and here again dishes that find no place on the regular menu can be chosen. Milk toast—nothing but milk toast—that makes a really delightful Sunday sup- per if you like it. If you do not eat cereals for 8t 6 still like them, then try one of the cooked cereals with plenty gl cream or top milk, Vogue Goes Steadily Forward and Often Includes All-White Fur Wraps White Slippers— Bathing Costumes, Gloves and Hand- bags. Even if we do not have much snow, it will be a white Winter, and it will be even whiter next Spflng. The vogue for white is going steadily forward, and Wwherever people talk seriously about dons the importance of white is mentfbned. At the most formal evening gather- ings white dresses predominate. Often they are worn with all-white fur wra) and white slippers. Every woman vg goes about much feels that she must have at least one rather gorgeous white evening dress of the formal sort, and with it she wears very long white glace kid gloves. Adequate Provision for Winter Needs May Also Be Made With Velvet Material and Fur Collar — Shoes to Be Small and Dainty. The all-white ermine evening wrap stands out in any impression of formal evening dress this Winter. It is the —‘H&wnm-dr. and|d is to improve on nature by subtle arts. ‘The careless employment of rouge, pow= der and lipstick defeats its own end. If you are blessed with a clear skin and good blood . .. . which argues for good health and is the best beautifier . . . you can usually secure a fine color for hours by bathing your face and neck for 15 minutes in iced water, Your skin becomes soft, velvety, and is suffused with a glow which can be en- hanced and made more permanent with eau de cologne or toflet vinegar. If you rouge indiscriminately and powder heavily you will ruin your com- plexion. The pores enlarge, the skin be- comes coarse and dry, and on close in- spection you will find it covered with fine wrinkles. To make up successfully you need time and care, especially if you wish to make a good appearance at night under the cruelty of bright arti- ficial lights. First of all, study your own coloring. A light-colored der on a dark skin gives an effect that is extremely ugly. Select your cosmetics so that they will blend into the natural coloring of the skin while harmonizing with the hair and eyes. Street or daytime make-up dif- fers from night makeup in that it is lighter, and the eyes and lashes do not require the additional touches called for after nightfall Before making up cleanse vour skin thoroughly. If soap is too drying, use a meal mixture or cleansing cream. After the cleansing process, before applying make-up, the entire surface under treat- ment must have a generous supply of cold cream. Remove all excess, leaving on enough to “hold” the powder, The next step is rouge. By the judi- clous use of make-up you can so change featural defects that regularity of out- lines 15 achieved Never rub on your powder. Press it carefully from spot to spot until the e+, tre surface is coated. Then dust off the excess with & fine brush. Rid the brows and lashes of all powder and, if neces- sary, use eyebrow pencil, ‘The lips, if rouged at all, must be delicately colored and the lines follow- ed. You can improve the mouth by a few deft touches. Wearable Xmas Gifts A satin negligee slightly fitted at the waist, lavishly trimmed at the edges of the flowing sleeves and down the front and around the neck with a luxurious band of ostrich. A fitted slip for evening wear made of silk crepe trimmed with Alencon lace. Rhinestone hair combs that will be a joy to any young girl who likes to look her best at parties. One will be useful but you had better buy two so that she can wear one at either side of her hair. Chamois cardigan jackets, very, very smart, and amazingly warm. To be worn under the tweed sports coat or sult or with a tweed skirt to make a smart and practical sports costume. White Winter and Spring All-white hats make their appearance at smart luncheons and bridge parties. They are chosen to go with the black- and-white ensemble. All-white bathing costumes have been predicted for Palm Beach, and pure white gloves and white shoes will un- doul ly be in great demand at South- I Tesorts. ‘The all-white leather handbag has made its a ince in smart shops. The most interesting of these are of white alligator. You may choose one to include in your Winter resort wardrobe or you may rush the season a little and wear it with your black-and-white en- semble here and now. All white, of course, has the fragile delicacy that its daintiness necessitates. 1t must be immaculate. Therefore it is better not to try to wear it unless you can afford to have your white things kept in perfect order. White gloves, white frock, white handbag or slippers must be white. They must be cleaned frequently enough so that they will nefi'e; be worn when they look at all sotled. If you cannot afford to spend money for all this cleaning, then don’t wear all white. It will prove but & snare and a delusion. Its very daintiness and its very whiteness make it unattractive if it 15 worn when it is the least bit “off color.” Bunny and Ermine Wraps ideal complement of the all-white eve- ning dress, but it is also worn over black or colors. There are the youth- ful short ermine wraps and the less expensive kind made of lapin or bunny, but the really formal ermine wrap is long enough to extend nearly to the ankles. Usually it is entirely of ermine, but here and there one sees ermine wraps collared with Russian sable, Most women, of course, spend little time even thinking of long ermine or sable-trimmed evening wraps. They wear their shorter bunny coats content- edly, realizing that they are becoming and fashionable and youthful. Or they pass up the idea of having any sort of fur evening wrap and buy or make an entirely adequate wrap of velvet, with a fur collar or a full rolling collar of the velvet of which the wrap is con- Seunutimes th Ivet wraps ometimes these velvet are made to go with a special dress, but always they can be made to do double or triple service. If .you choose a col- ored velvet, then you may wear it with 8 black dress or a white dress or one of the same color as the coat or of & tone somewhat lighter. You may de- cide on a turquoise wrap to wear with & turquoise dress or a white dress or a black dress. Or you may choose & lovely deep rose velvet, which may be worn with pink, black, white or rose to match the wrap. A brown velvet . wrap mh:z be worn with brown, white, light pink, yellow or beige. ‘Trim les and well shod feet are even more essential to the smart eve- ning ensemble than they were in the days when we danced and dined and went to the opera with our skirts to our knees. And now, as a concession to the fashion for femininity, our shoes must be made so that our feet will look rather small and dainty. For this rea- son they are usually made of moire or dull-surfaced silk with narrow straps, narrow piping and only the smallest of ornaments, For wear with white evening dresses one chooses white moire with or with- out metal trimming. A charming pair of white slippers is studded all over with tiny metal flecks, but these are best left to the woman with small, well shaped feet. If the all-white dress is worn as a foll for colored jewelry, one's sligpen may be dyed to match—ruby red, emerald green, sapphire blue or turquoise. ~ With the all-black dress colored slippers may be chosen for the ::me t‘r:ll.:ron o:dofi may wear ali-black metal-trimmed slippers. Opera pum) worn without buckles are the blnghaig: STt SRR ettt b 5 -cut sandal pumps, though a less - b mdndu:&y smart, are prac; Real flowers are seen this Winter and are worn on the shoulder, the front of the bodice or on the collar of the eve- ning wrap. When religjous organizations at Hull, England, profested receml{ against the playing of miniature golf on Sunday they were told the owners of the were cheerfully paying the fine m & week for keeping open on that dag, - 1 3 )