Evening Star Newspaper, September 21, 1930, Page 49

ine of Hair W The large dres:y afternoon hat with soft brim is made of black velvet trimmed with satin ribbon. The beige felt is trimmed with brown ribbon. | Question of Arrange- ment Becomes More | Important With New | Styles—Small Darts and Tucks Used In-| stead of Drapery— Bonnet Type is Des- tined to Have Im- portant Place in Coming Months. | women, indeed youthful, but not in the sense that they are b:coming only to young In order to secure the closely molded line of the crown many of the velvet hats are draped but there is a tendency to make use of small darts and tucks instead of drapery. The material be- neath the darts or tucks is cut away so that the hat conforms to the shape of the head with the least possible bulkiness. . L L TH!: trimming on the new hats fol- lows the lines of the silhouette of the hat, so that while it adds indi- viduality it is always subservient to the line of the hat. Sometimes the trimming consists of piping of con- | trasting color. Small feather orna- { ments “are important and small bows | | of ribbon are cleverly used. Agnes has | set_the fashion for the use of small quills and these, too, are arranged to accent the structural line of the hat. At least until cold weather makes fur collars necessary hats with brims will be worn considerably, but the bon- net type of hat is bound to play an important role in Autumn and Winter Suzanne Talbot is making BY MARY MARSHALL. E had grave doubts on the subject of the becomingness of the new hats. When we first knew definitely that the | fashions. hats shown by the French | milliners for Autumn were designed to | be worn even further back on the head than ever and that they were to be Just as closely fitted to the head, most of us began to wonder whether we would find them becoming. Of course we knew they would be smart, but we feared that they would be trying. Now that we have seen these m‘w’ hats, tried them on and studied their bilities we do not hesitate to say | t they are generally far more flatter- Mg and becoming than any hats that Rave been seen for many seasons. To | be sure they are worn far back on the head, but instead of resting severely | on a perfectly bare forehead fashion’s | latest injunction is to show one's hair | in a softening line between the hat and | the forehead as well as at the side. And this really does make a world of dif- ference. A difference in more ways than one. It m akes the hats far more becoming and it makes the question of hair arrangemen: considerably more important than it has bzen during the era when hair was rigorously pushed back from the forehead when the hat ‘was donned. L 'ATS still follow the outlines of the head quite closely, but even with the turbans and other small hats there is often an effect of breadth at the | back that is very flattering. And for Autumn, at least. there are many hats with brims. The new cloches are made with the brim considerably wider at the right side than the left and the front brim of these new cloches is quite narrow, springing from the crown that is shallow in the front. The result is that the front brim projects outward— not downward—leaving the eyes of the wearer unshaded. These new hats are % you cannot wear the flapper type of hat, this smart litrle model of black satin showing the hair at one side would be becoming. charming Puritan bonnets for formal | wear and Patou has done interesting | things with Juliet caps that are worn | far enough back on the head to show the hair over the brow. Some of the most interesting of the new velvet turbans are made with the velvet arranged in a ruffle across the nape of the neck and fine smocking | appears on some of these. Tricornes and bicornes and sailor tams are shapes that we shall hear much about. * FUR has appeared as trimming and will unquestionably be used ex- tensively as the Autumn advances. | Only the very supplest of furs are used, galyak being the usual choice. Perhaps the most notable thing to remember in summing up the shat situation for Autumn is that the back of the hat is most important. Just as the milliners have pulled the hats farther back on the head so, it would seem, they have drawn the point of | focus for the hat further back also. There are turbans with ruffles across the back of the neck and sometimes there is a soft extension of the hat at the back producing a diagonal line so that this extension touches the shoulder at one side, leaving the other side exposed. | (Copyright, 1930.) France Uses Plaid. French dressmakers do not long over- | look the possibilities of plaid. For the | present season Jane Regny is using reg- | ulation plaids or tartons of the Scotch clans. From the more subdued of these she makes suits. In other instances the | plaid is used for the lining of plain- toned cloth suits, for small trimming details or for woolen scarfs. | and blood THE SUNDAY STAR VASHINCTON Fall hats tilted off the face show curls Below at the left is an evening cap of Vitality and Refine- dicated When They tion—Brittle Quality Must Be Remedied by Treatment. BY CHARLOTTE C. WEST, M.D. Fewer mistakes in education and oc- cupational training would be made to- day were the shape of the nails under- stood and allowed to serve as one of the indices of character. Healthy, beau- tifully-kept nails bespeak vitality and refinement; broken, colorless nails be- speak the worn, nervous, anemic tem- perament,. Nails that are noticeably flat point to a congental weakness of the nutritive system, while those that are highly arched show good assimilative powers. Very thin nails that bend over denote gestion or of both. Jecause they are very common, may be well to enter more fully into the cases of brittle nails. Systmatic depletion, a markedly rundown system impoverisnment are the fundamental causes of nalls that are always dry, ridged, or that display white spots and dashes on thelr surface. In all such cases it is necessa up the constitution, as the nails are great indicators of health conditions. | Hardness and dryness of the skin cause hangnails. It must be plain to every one that when the nail is dull or brittle, when it splits and breaks constantly, it has been robbed of its natural oil. There- fore, this must be supplied, for it is oil that feeds the roots and polishes the nal . ‘The substitute for natural ol is a 10- minute bath in warm olive oil or al mond oil. Inasmuch as the nail grows from the root and gets its nourishment from the matrix, or nail bed, the oil cannot penetrate if the skin has been allowed to grow up and cover the nail. This thickened, overgrown skin must first be soaked in a bath of warm wcer that has been softened with toilet smmonia and liquid soap. Then with an orange stick it must be 'ifted away gently and pressed back. It is never necessary to cut away the cuticle from the base of well cared for nails, but in such conditions as are now being con- | sidered, this must be done. A tiny pledget of absorbent cotton may be | dipped in the warm ofl and run around | the base, as well as along the side of | and under the nail It’s the Soup. The reason men are so much less frequently troubled with blackheads than women is because men shave their faces and women do not. The girl who glves “facials” in a popular barber shop told me that the only place these un- pleasant little blemishes would Gare to appear in a man’s face would be the nose or forehead—certainly never on chin or cheeks. And the reason for this, this masseuse was convinced, was beeause men customarily shave at least once a day, and part of the shaving process consists of a very thorough lathering with a shaving brush and real sonpsuds. “And 50,” sald this masseuse, “when- ever a woman tells me that she is troubled with blackheads, 1 just advise her to get a nice soft shaving brush and a tube or a cake of good shaving soap. Use the soap precisely as a man would in getting ready to shave, only use it on the nose and forchead as ment Likely to Be In-‘ Are in Best Condi-| feebleness of the lungs or organs of di- it | to build | to give the becoming, soft line of hair. At the upper lefthand corner is a black felt beret with black and green tassels. green sequins. Above at the right is a brown velvet hat with turned-back brim and a Fand of white grosgrain ribbon, and below at the right a black satin cap with beige velvet ribbon. | _The fact to be borne i mind is that | tne nails must be nourished from be low. When the roots are strengthened | with ofls every day, there is less likeli- | hood of their becoming or remaining dry and brittle. A good paste for brittle nails consists of equal parts of pitch and myrrh, or | turpentine and myrrh, melted together and spread on the nails at night. Re- move in the morning with warm ofl | " When the nails are very soft, tender and delicate, this paste will strengthen | the structure: Oil of mastic, 15 grams | common sait, 2 grams; powdered col phony, 21, grams; powdered alum, 25 grams: white wax, 5 grams. | Melt the ofl of mastic and the white | wr : together, then add the other in- | \nemenu. Stir until cool. Apply to the | | nails at night. (Copyright, 1930.) New Curtains Effective | | They Make Over Old Rooms, May Be Pro- duced at Small Cost,| and Are Put Up| With Very Little Confusion in Home. | BY BETSY CALLISTER. NTERIOR decorators will tell you that | the most important things to con- sider in beautifying a house are walls, floors and floor coverings, and curtains. | Possibly floors and floor coverings and | walls come first, but the task of having walls repapered or repainted involves considerable expense and confusion. We cannot have these things changed every ¥ And floors usually have to re- main the same for several years. Rugs, too, cannot be cast aside merely be-| cause we crave a little change in our surrcundings. New curtains of a satisfactory sort may be made at small expense and put | up with very Lttle confusion. If you feel that you want to give a different aspect to your living room and cannot| afford new wall covering, new rugs or new furniture, then you should give serious thought to the possibilities of new curtains. The old curtains need not be discarded. They may be washed | or cleaned and put side to use as sub-| stitutes for the new ones, or you may promote the living room curtains to one | of the bed roorns where those now in use need changing. Curtains not only modify the appear- | ance of the windows but by their effect on the light that comes into the room | have much to do in determining the general aspect of the room. In Sum- mer curtains of green or a soft blue make the room seem cooler, while in the darker months curtains of cream, yellow or even orange make the room seem warmer and sunnier. Remarkable things may be done simply by dyeing old curtains. Curtains may be considered according to the purposes they serve; that is, we | have curtains which are needed prima- rily to shield the room from the gaze of those without, curtains that are needed to hide an unattractive view, and those that are needed merely to give a frame to_the window. | In the city house or apartment it is | often most important to have curtains | of the shielding sort. Sometimes, as is | the case with rooms directly on the | street, it is necessary to have curtains of a really substantial sort in order to obtain the necessary privacy. Then, in order that they shall not shut out the light, we arrange curtains of shirred | well. It is surprising what wonderful results may be gained in this way.” net or silk that extend over the lower! ith Hat Produces Kitchen Meals in Style Once Frowned Upon,} Have Become Daily| Breakfast Custom in| Many Fine Homes. Made Possible by! New Kitchen Cab- inets—Saving Labor. "THE practice of eating in the kitchen, once frowned upon by the best| people, threatens to crash into the “approved” columns of the etiquette ered so that light may come in the room. Sometimes we have slide drapes and a short valance over the window, the lower pane of which has been cov- ered in this way. | ‘We should not overlook the fact that | some members of the family—the old folk and shut-ins—may find actual pleasure in looking out the windows that overlook the street. Younger persons are inclined to ridicule such a possi- bility. Sash curtains should, they think, cover the sash, being made from a single piece of scrim or netting. And| so grandmother may have to sit by the | window peering out through the mist books—at least so far as breakfast is concaned. It's already a daily custom in a good many thousands of fine Amer- ican homes. But eating in the kitchen nowadays doesn't involve any let-down in table manners or in the beauty or correctness of the surroundings. Modern archi- tecture and modern furniture have made ample provision fo: a hurry-up break- fast that has all the dignity of a meal served in the dining room, without the extra work and time required to move | the coffee and toast and eggs from one room to another. Of course, the breakfast nook, opening off the kitchen, with its special tablé and benches or chairs, provides an ideal setting for the morning meal. The move toward brighter colors has reached its apex here. The furniture may match or harmonize with the window curtains and floor covering and the breakfast nook often rivals the dining room in attractiveness and far sur- passes it in informal cheerfulness. The lack of a breakfast nook doesn't mean that breakfast must be served in the dining room. The newer kitchen cabinets have solved the problem by providing another pleasant and handy | spot for the first meal of the day. In addition to the usual porcelain top that slides outward and providss a work table for the housewife, these cabinets have a lower dinette table of wood attractively finished. When the work table is pushed in and the dinette pulled out, there's a place where breakfast may be served with speed and dispatch. The table is just the right height, not too high, as was the porcelain top when it was sometimes used for this purpose. 9.21 ‘The teige felt hat is trimmed with brown band and bows. of Scotch jersey wool is trimmed wi Pairs Found in In-| creasing Number Among Articles of Equipment—Prac- tice Extends to Nearly Everything Except Books—End- less Possibilities. | | | "THERE'S a bull market on twins in| the American home these days. Not so far as children are concerned, for presumably the ratio of twins dis- | tributed about the land remains approx- imately the same from year to year— but in furniture. Smart living rooms in |an increasing number of homes are blos- soming out with furnishings in pairs. The sports had ith wooden ornaments at the front. Of course, there is a limit to this scheme of interior decoration. Two large pieces of furniture, just alike, in & small room, would not be in good taste, and are to be avoided, Some who think that exact duplication an uninteresting impression of sameness have altered the idea by using “twins” that harmonize and are obviously closely related with~ out being exact copies. This preserves the essential twin jdea without running into the danger of monotony. The “twin” style may be new to the living room, but it's not new to the American home. In this respect the bed rcom has blazed the way, for twin beds have been popular quite a while. All Kinds of Fabric Make New Curtains Nowadays almost any sort of mates rial is considered proper for curtains and others proper just for “dress goods.” The decorators have gone about using voile and gingham and taffeta, and the | Home makers everywhere, it appears, | dressmakers use upholstery trimming. |are giving salespeople the shocks of| Taffeta curtains always sound rather | their lives. After selecting a table or a | impractical, and, of course, it must be lamp or a bookcase or even a daven- | admitted that taffeta cracks. Never- | port, milady nonchalantly adds: “That | theless, taffeta curtains are extremely | will do nicely. I'll take two.” attractive in certain rooms. There is & | There are almost endless decorative crispness and dignity about them with- possibilities in this fashion. One of lhe;Dul undue stiffness and formality that most popular tricks is to flank a desk make them just the right thing some- with an identical pair of pier book-|times. In a sunny room where real cases. Then frequently twin knick- softening of the light is desired taffeta knacks are placed on top of the book- |curtains directly over the glass, so ar- cases, Nobody has yet suggested that ranged that they may be drawn back books be purchased ‘in pairs, one for and forth, are a good choice. One each bookcase, but th bout the only | woman chose taffeta curtains in leaf opportunity for duplication that has| green in a room with gray walls, with been overlooked. sunshine in every window. The effect Two_identical end tables are placed | was most successful. at each end of a sofa, and then twin| You can use raw silk or one of the lamps are obtained, one for each table. other soft silks for these over-the-glass ‘The result is surprisingly pleasing—un- | curtains, too. And these softer silks are less you have a prejudice against sym- | less likely to crack and wear than the metry. taffeta. And then, of course, there are Davenports are rather bulky articles|the figured silks, but these are more to be used in duplicate, but there’s a|suitable for side drapery, for use in way around this obstacle. | addition to net or scrim hung over the Love seats, which are extremely fash- | glass. ionable at present, anyhow, are pur-| There are striking new net curtains chased—and twins again. They can be this year—a heavy, square-meshed net utilized effectively in a number of ways, | in color; sometimes black, someti one of the best being before a fireplace. | ecru, sometimes red, sometimes brown. The twins are placed facing each other | This net shows a pattern darned in with at right angles to the fireplace, and | colored wools. Sometimes it is a trellis there you are. | with climbing vines. Sometimes it is & Speaking of fireplaces, there's the stiff floral design. The curtain is fi pane, leaving the uppes pane uncov- with curls appearing on the forehead. The electric plugs, part of the equip- ment of most cabinets, are handy to g S provide the current for the electric percolator and toaster if these are used. Cream Lace. | If the gas stove does the work, it isn’t Deep-toned lace has been chosen for | far away. Most of the ingredients that | trimming lingerie for several years, it | £, (0 make up the meal are right on now has come the reaction, and the gre a few steps away in the refrigerator. newest slips and nightgowns are made I{.‘s thnhlut ':vord lln emc;:ney,';tb: time when the minutes ve with lace of a light cream tone. | counted: tn most homes, | In the larger models the sliding table |is large enough to provide space on which to serve breakfast to four per- sons. The smaller cabinets are de- signed to accommodate three—the hus- | b.-lnd and wife and junior in his high chair. The one item—providing a place for breakfast—would not warrant the addi~ | tion of a kitchen cabinet to the furnish- ings of a home, but it's an additional point that the efficient housewife should | consider. The principal function of the | cabinet, of course, is to simplify the | problem of preparing meals by con- | centrating in compact form and in one place all of the paraphernalia that | cocking requires. Som: one with a flair for statistics figured out, by actual test, that the use of the kitchen cabinet can eliminate an average of 1592 of the 2,113 steps | ordinarily taken during the preparation | of three simple meals. Those extra | steps, whether or not the 1,502 figure is too low or too high, mean a great deal to the modern homemaker, who has no intention of being cooped up all day in the kitchen. of & curtain that cannot be drawn aside Lower Waistline. While Malyneux, Poiret and others | show a strong interest in the slightly raised waistline, several ‘important French dressmakers have stressed the slightly lower than normal placing of | the belt or girdle. Augustabernard | places belts at the hips for both day | and evening dresses and Lanvin, who has drawn from Russian and Cassock sources for many of her smartest dresses and coats, glso shows the lower than normal plackig of the belt. | Broun crocheted chenille cap worn | mantel to be considered, It has two | ends, so there is another possibility for | twin objects of art—vases, pottery, or whatever it may be you prefer. Pictures are being used in duplicate— not the same picture, of course, but the same type of frame in design and size. Duplicate mirrors, it has been pointed out, can be made to give a room an ap- pearance of greater size, if they are placed properly. This is & trick that requires experimenting. Black velvet dotted with white is ished with long, heavy fringe across the bottom. These curtains are very ef- fective in the small living room that is otherwise rather simply furnished. Plain casement cloth curtains some- times are a good choice. They should be so hung that they can be drawn com- pletely across the window, and then they give as much protection as a win= dow shade. They may very well be made in two sections, so that top and bottom may be drawn separately. used for this soft beret and tie.