Evening Star Newspaper, September 7, 1930, Page 47

recian Black and white tweed was used for the youthful sports costume at the with wide box pleats arranged to give fullness to the skirt. Cufis and collar pf red and white crepe de chine. A box-pleated flounce gives fullness to green flannel costume at the right. a green and yellow tie, The blouse of yellow jersey is worn ey Are Used Also o Give Low-Placed lare That Is Char- cteristic of Many of e New Skirts—All orts of Pleated Ruf- les and Frills Con- ribute to Generally eminine Effect— Planning Children’s lothes. BY MARY MARSHALL. hlao‘twentm)\ century of ours the e ns. might mention a number of such ns that have persisted year after iwith very little interruption of sweaters, for example. We have hem with us in one form or an- for two decades, but they have d their shape a dozen times and resumably continue to mnfin‘l't t with changing taste in fas) . rolonged vogue for short hair is course, to the skill of the bar- h modifying the short coiffure to jnew ideas. If it does finally go he scrap heap it will be because ossibilities for adaptation have austed. at present we are confronted wide variety of pleats. One speak of a revival of pleats if it hot that we have had pleats of or another with us for so long. 'w pleats are different, though the g principle of the thing re- the same. * ok k% thing that has worked for the mportance of the pleat at pres- the revival of the Greek idea in To be sure, the drapery of the Greek dress was not actually laid onholes Must Be Carefully Made ever could make buttonholes,” is mplaint of many women, which y means “I never took the trou- apply myself to the task of mal ttonholes.” For any woman who the rudiments of sewing can buttonholes—well, if she really Only there is the feeling in the of the heads of some that a but- is a stupid proposition at best t the time expended in making ly excellent buttonhole is rather course, no special cleverness, and the needlewoman often E;efeu to do pore complicated tasks and then buttonholes to some one who enjoys them. Usually there is one in the family who rather ttonhole-making. of the most important things the success of a buttonhole is should be cut perfectly and that 1d be cut in the right place. For on _you should cut them when ve time to do it deliberately. 1l need a tape measure, sharp and pins. Usually it is best to he buttonholes first, then put the in place exactly beneath them e garment is folded together. her matter that is important in buttonholes is to have a proper tion on which to work them. In your garment take this into ration. In children’s clothes tronhole foundation should be lly substantial and pliable. If ce where the buttonhole is to ke he bias of the goods, & ‘Nac the ole does not ~aree %z, » straight 0ds, then by all means under- in some way so that there will traight backing for the button- Non-Stop Egg Producer. world’s champion hen seems to sident of Skipton, in Yorkshire, The “Old Lady” as she is has no pedigree or chicken show but she is 17 years old and “still strong.” She was bought 11 go, not as a layer, but as a hen, to hatch out duck's eggs. ryone’s surprise, she started to s of her own as soon as the‘ s had taken to the watel “then she has started laying ar in" the middle of April and e on for six or seven weeks. he has a fit of broodiness, but work again a little later and jes ta . produce for another seven ‘wzeks. . old tl:brdy" output nowadays is abou! e r week during her busy times. buttonhole-making re- | in pleats. but the effect of the carefully draped folds of a Greek gown, peplum |or chiton can be best produced for modern fashions by means of fine pleats. In the meantime, wider pleats have been made usc of in many of the new dresses, because they may be used to give the low-placed flare that is char- acteristic of so many of the new skirts. And all sorts of pleated ruffies and frills are made use of, because they contribute to the generally feminine effect of the dress that is also desirable. e DEHNIT!LY decide, once and for all, how much money you can af- ford to spend each year on your chil- dren’s clothes, how much importance shall be attached to their clothes, The thing of most importance in clothes for c:ildren is, of course, that they shall be clean. They should also be appropriate and becoming. There is educational value in wearing becoming clothes. They teach their wearer self- confidence, giving him a happier out- look on the world just because of his feeling of being appropriately and be- eomtn;ly dressed. As for numbers, it is rather an ad- vantage to the mother that her chil- dren shall have many clothes than it is to the children themselves. For them a few well chosen clothes are quite sufficient. To the mother, more clothes mean less worrying about hav- ing something fresh always ready for & change. * ok k% AND as for richness of fabrics, this is no advantage to anybody. Good materials mean that the clothes wear well and do not need such frequent replenishing as those of rer quality. Elaborate and rich materials give little real happiness to children. Some little children love finery and showy wear- ables. It is perhaps as well to induls this habit to some extent, for it worl itself off in this way, but cheap rib- bon for a sash gives as much pleasure to the finery-loving child as a dress of expensive georgette, flower-trimmed and | worn over silk. | (Copyright. 1930 4 | Broun crepe de chine was chosen far | this autumn dress with a deep flounce of pleating on the skirt and narrow pleati o’w“ the yoke of the skirt the bodi R . and | that raft toda THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, evival M Narrow box pleats characterize this dress of printed crepe de chine. Scallops. If you are buttonholing scalloped edges on baby clothes or on table linen or on towels, first run the edge of the scallop through the machine with a stitch graded according to the fineness of the material you are working on— fine for thin fine material, of course. This strengthens the edge of the scallop and keeps the material from breaking between scallops, the place where wear usually begins. —_— Carrying Mirrors was the custom ¢f women to carry look- ing-glasses with them, so there is really nothing new in the present fashion of the vanity case. Often they hung on a ribbon from the side of the girdle and were apparently used as shamelessly as they are today. Free Action Rules Governing Day’s Activities Should Not Be So Or- dered That Spirit Is Destroyed — H o w One Boy Gained Strength. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. |** AND remember to give the bird | fresh water and seed every day,” |said mother as she got into the front | seat beside father. “We'll be back sure by & week from Friday. Good-by.” Aunt Dot and Thomas, jr., stood on the curb and w.tched the car as it | gainc”. momentum and moved down the street. Aunt Dot looked at Thomas and Thomas looked at he: Then the boy's | gaze fell to the paper in her hand. |7 “I guess that's about me.” he said. |“T'll try to be good. What'll I do. this | morning?” Aunt Dot consulted the list. It said: “Mornings—Thomas is to attend to the porches, water the plants, do your er- rands and practice. Afternoons— ‘Thomas is to stay around where you can see him. He may have a friend in if you like. Once a week he can go to a movie, but only to the one around the corner. He is to do exactly what you say, just as he does with me.” “Well, major, you're to do exactly what I say, and I'm going to say, ‘Do exactly as you please.’” “Did mother say that?” “Not—not in so many words.” She crumpled the paper in her hands. “But |I gues. that's what it amounts to. |She’s_given me charge of you, and I say ‘Do as you please’ Aren't there things you might like to do—that—that ' you don't usually do?” | “I don't think so. I have two new books mother bought me to read while she was gone. They're adventure stories. I love adventure.” “Well, think it out, major. member you may do exactly as you please. There is only one thing I .m going to ask you to do for the next 10 days. Whatever vou do, don’t take any chances on getting hurt or lost or sick. And if ever you're not here at 1 and 6 o'clock, respectively, for Junch and din- |ner, get me word some way so I won't worry.” | _ “You mean I can go anywhere? That |T can—that the boys and I can—. Oh, mother would never let me!” | Pretty soon Aunt Dot heard the hose reel being pushed around front, then the scraping of chairs and the thud of | water on the steps; later the softer thud |on the canna leaves and the moon v ae. The morning chorcé were not being overlooked. ‘That day the boy stuck pretty close to home. He didn’t know what to do with | treedom. | But in the days that followed things began to open up. The boy across the street had a cousin on the edge of town who came in often. This cousin knew all the fishing places and swimming | places in the township. | The early chores were never forgotten, although the lady in charge did not once remind him of either. But when | he worked, instead of the listless look {of duty, a happy alertness looked out. Thomas said now in a business-like tone: “I'm going to do so-and- not “Do you think I ought to—" He would say, “The picture at the theater {is one of those smart-aleck cake-and- tea shows. Pudge and I are going down to the other place to see that adventure picture.” Or “Aunt Dot, we're l"!%l Y. The boys are for lunch and we're going to s But re-| my'l dery. ‘Three hundred years and more ago it | 91 The dress of white georgette h 3 Grecian by Children |after. Sure you don't mind making | pancackes?” |~ Ten days of freedom of soul made a new man of Thomas. When his mother came back she threw up her hands. “Well, you've certainly fed him well, my dear. He's gained five pounds.” “He did seem a bit hungry—for cer- tain things,” answered her sister. And for those interested we shall add uu:.n Thomas never went ‘“hungry” again. Forest Parks for the People. In 1905, when the Forest Service was created, there were 60 reserves, with an | area of 59,000,000 acres: the area today !is 160,000,000 acres, embraced in 150 | national forests. In 1905 there were no fire towers or lookiut stations; to- day 831 are maintained. As many as 1,186 public camp grounds have been improved during the period. Since 1907 the mileage of national forest roads has | been extended from 330 to 16,730. Forest | trails have increased from 5,644 to 47,- | 175 miles. | | | | | | | | | A conventional arrangement of pleats gives fullness to the skirt of this green canton dress, the collar and sleeves of which are trimmed with bead embroi- ;O SEPTEMBER 17, akes Pleats Important in Modern Fashions as sun-pleated skirt to achieve the effect of long drapery. {Old Pieces of Furni- | ture May Be Made to Look New and Others May Be Pro- tected With Attrac- tive Effect. STRIC'ILY speaking, there is a wide difference between dressmaking and upholstering, but any woman who has | successfully made dresses for herself can in a pinch successfully make cov- ers for her chairs and lounges. The old-fashioned plan was to have sl’p covers for Summer time only, and they were usually made of drab, unin- teresting materials whose only claim to praise was that they shed the dust and protected the uphol of the chairs |and lounges they covered. With the coming of cooler weather in the Au- tumn the covers were removed and put away for’another season. Now many thoughtful housewives buy chairs and lounges finished in plain- toned sateen or denim and then make, or have made, covers that are left on all the year round. The covers may be removed and sent to the cleaner and new ones may be made at much less expense than would be entailed in hav- the l|ecu emh;flg't rell‘x:hollured. making your first slip cover it is a good plan to have some inexpensive cotton material—unbleached muslin, for |example—to use to cut the trial pat- tern. The trial cover may later be Vigor Are Related to Their Condition— E x pert Directions Are Given for Those Who Desire Im- provement. BY CHARLOTTE C. WEST, M. D. NO beautifully formed mouth shows | the gums in conversation. When they are slightly revealed, a lack of physical and mental vigor is indicated. | If they show very plainly and to any :kant when the mouth is in repose, |inherited weakness, due mainly to & | faulty diet, is indicated. | , Long-continued deprivation | food to build up the system to ol | est. state results in such eracy. The ignorance of many otherwise in- telligent persons on the subject of food is amazing. A great many foolish women avold good, plain fare—muscle and bone making far they believe it to be plebeian and because of the craze for extreme slenderness. The result of this is thin, bloodless, delicate s, The color of the gums is very sig- nificant, especially if they bleed readily; when very pale they point to anemia and general impoverishment of the sys- tem. To be beautiful, your must be a heall cannot_be floss. Dental floss, by the way, tendency to cut the very delicate mem- brane covi the gums. Also, fillings are liable to loosened when floss is of proper its hig 1930—PART THREE. A turquoise blue satin evening dress of more modern inspiration has sun- pleated skirt, longer at the back than the front to form an uneven train. Vacuum Cleaners for Streets Having the appearance of a tractor, threshing machine and truck combined, a vacuum street cleaner is being put into use in Vienna, Austria. It is equipped with powerful brocms which sweep the rubbish and dirt into piles. These piles are then pneumatically drawn up through a yawning mouth by whirling fans. The machine cleans the street in one operation, sweeping and removing the rubbish simultane- ously. One feature is that it leaves the air clear behind it. Slip Covers for Whole Year |taken apart and the material used for laundry bags, pillow protectors or for curtains in the kitchen or pantry, so that there is no real extravagance. For the usual sort of upholstery lounge you will need to provide a large piece to cover the entire back of the lounge, a long piece to cover the front portion of the back, two shaped side pleces, pleces for the insides and tops of the arms, a shaped piece for the front and a cover for the seat, as well as a long valance plece that may be either gathered or laid in box pleats. If the seat of the lounge consists of two or three unattached square cush- fons, then these should be covered sep- arately. It is a good plan to cover them on both sides, so that they may be used on either side, as the seat of the lounge always receives harder wear than the other parts, and these covers should be made so that they may be slipped off without ripping up the en- tire covers when time comes to have them cleaned. If you like, you may have plain-toned material for your covers, though fig- ured material has the advantage of not showing sofl or wear so quickly as plain material. If your hangings show a floral figured design, it is better to have a small geometrical design for the lounge and chair covers so that the effect of figures will not be too strik- ing. hen may be old chairs, seats or lounges in your collection of odd furni- ture that may be Eruhly improved by & little home upholstery work, and sometimes it is better to attach the covering than to make a slip cover. To hold the material in Poumon you will find flat-headed upholstery tacks very helpful. (Copyrisht, 1930.) Care of Gums Is Advised Physical and Mental, carelessly and rapidly vsed. Therefore, flat dental tape is safer than floss. In the beginning the symptoms of pyorrhea are not clearly defined, as the process is very slow, taking vears to de- velop. Even when the gums have soft- ened and broken away from the roots of the teeth, little or no attention may be given the matter. A bad taste in the mouth and an odor on the breath must result from this condition. Fastidious women will discover any trouble of this kind long before it be- comes pronounced. Preventive measures consist in rubbing the gums daily with table salt and a rubber massage brush, cking the teeth nightly with bicar- te of soda and prepared chalk. These methods prevent—and also check ~the beginning of the trouble. ‘When ?}'orrhn has advanced to an appreciable extent, what can be done? incture of iodine is destructive to germs. In mild cases a solution of the tincture—say half a teaspoonful to a small glass of water—daubed on the gums and around the teeth, then used as a wash and a gargle—by “used” we mean actually used half a dozen times daily—will arrest the progress of the trouble and keep it corrected. Many oral hygienists advise cleansing the tongue every morning with a flex- ible whalebone, but if you exert care in other directions this should not be nec- essary. However, since a coated tongue calls attention to some physical disturb- ance, it should never be overlooked. An excellent mouth and throat gargle for use in this and similar minor con- ditions: Chlorate of potash, 112 ounces; tincture of myrrh, 2 drams; aicohol, Y2 ounce; cinamon water, 6 ounces. (Copyright, 1930.) ~ Prussian police are to be armed with a pistol for discharging bullets which clouds of gas, rendering the vic- 11 An interesting arrangement of pleats is shown on the beige flat crepe dress at the left, while the usual sort of side pleating is used for the skirt of the printed crepe dress at the right. Sewing to Be Smart and Collars, Cuffs, Vestees and Hat-| i bands Are to Be Made by Hand, With Embroidery and Frilling. the curved closing, making it look like & yoke to your brown frocks, instead of . r. ‘The cuffs are very attractive, it ‘r‘;m t:z wrist :t ‘:hz bottom: about !aur%‘fl“p'%" Hey snap shut’ and, if yod t, 'you ‘cén put another snap on the de and snap them to frock’s ves. hl!-ltyla A little after~ Plastroon. of deiicate materia. cufts on icate ma s the short sleeves and then the coat and the hat may repeat it. Such a multiple touch is done in THE lingerle touch on your frocks |Pink this Fall will mean a hand touch or it will not be smart. That is to say, you must make your |8l aroun collars and cuffs and vestees and hat- bands and so on by hand, with a touch of embroidery, tucks, frilling or what 1’“}2.3 you really want them to be the I As a matter of fact, it looks as if sewing is going to be smart this Winter. ‘The kind of lingerie touch that but- tons on, or snaps on, or ties on, rather than has to be sewed on, is the touch for Autumn. One of the newest of this kind of collar, one that is young enough to please the most particular, is made of pale yellow lnen, with a rucl edge of net to match. It buttons aroun the neck with a single big yellow linen button, and the ruching runs around and the idea has swept the style A delicate little batiste vestee, made with hand tucks and fine frills of the same material, in beige tone, is ex- tremely effective with a beige a dotted border in the color of your suit. Fine dots make the border, and either a scalloped edge or a rolled one done in color completes the set. = ‘The final little extra touch of lingerie that you can add to your costume this the back-of-the-neck flower. silk or linen flowers, tucked under your collar at the back! They are new and cute. But you must have a little under collar of white or pastel color to match the flowers, as a kind of setting. Slip the under collar under your coat’s collar and the flower under The skirt of this blue canton crepe g dress has wide side pleats and crepe de chine collar and cuffs are fin- ished with narrow pleating. that, and you're all fixed. Old-fashioned polka dots have gained favor lately. An attractive collar and cuff set uses very small navy dots lashed around its edges to increase e charm of & navy suit. Another intriguing set is edged with pleating, and the round collar buttons in front. Collars and Cuffs. Every influential French dressmaker has added some type of accessory collar and cuff of importance for Autumn wear. As shown at the recent o] in Paris, these accessories were the dresses with which with which French fashions are rerro- pocaibl siready 1o buy separate Gollars possible alre: uy separate col and cuffs of the sort that within so short a time were seen for the first time in Paris. Pure white collars and cuffs are the favorite with the black costume, and all sorts of charming things have been done with white tte, ‘which is is frequently seen with black velvet, which, as every one knows, is to occupy an important pesition In the fashion panorama for Autumn. Oc- casionally _pastel- or crepe de chine is used for mccessories on darker-toned dresses. A soft pow- der blue collar or bertha may be seen on some of the new wine-colored dresses, and the same tone of blue, as well as light tones of pink, is used on black as an exception to the rule of black and pure white. Wings for sh" Riders Liked, Wings which give ski riders, some of the thrills of aviation are making a hit in the countries of snow and ice. de b, German