Evening Star Newspaper, June 15, 1930, Page 59

SUNDAY STAR Chiffon Helps in Solving Prob-| lem of Smartness| With Comfort in Warm Weather. Pastel and Bright Colors With Plain| Materials Are Most Attractive—Suit| Meets Requirements for Town and Coun- try in Its Several Variations. ‘ BY HELEN DRYDEN. HE annual problem is upon us again. How, oh how. be cool | on hot days—yet be adequately | dressed and_smartly, and pre- serve this chic throughout the day. It is a more acute problem when | it comes to days in town than in the | country. There one is allowed a cer- | tain casualness of dress. In town, though, the “tout ensemble”—if one is to dress in good taste—must be ob- served. | Fashion this season has an answer to all these problems, big or little, and the nicest part of it is that it can really be done very inexpensively and a ward- robe that covers all the phases of fash- i jon—every one style-right—can be achieved for budgets of all sizes, start- ing with really a low one. koo Ir it is possible, chiffon dresses are | mer. more important than ever this Sum- Consider—fashion has gone fem- | inine—what more charmingly suitable | material is there than chiffon with its flattering and cool nature. For the necessary afternoon fashions, graceful- ly designed frocks for tea and bridge are best done in chiffon. In the eve- ning. too, we find chiffon paramount. The pastel and bright colors in p! chiffon are most attractive. The prints have never been so distinctive or so numerous. If it is a print you choose remember to make a most careful se- lection—for there lies the outstanding effect of vour frock. There are many huge patterns, geo- metric splashes on dark or light grounds —combinations of color, startling or sub- | tilely subdued. Some of the best of the | new prints have a rather clear-cut na- ture in the way of outline, and are | in vivid colors, rather modernistic in theme. Small patterns—except the | ‘quaint Dolly Varden prints in chiffon or organdy, and they are piquantly youth- ful—are not as sophisticated as the JATger Ones. x x x X ITH the formal trend of the mode bringing longer skirts and the aressmaker suits to the fore, a new type | of chiffon ensemble, designed particus larly for town wear, has come into be- ing. It is a blend of informality and | semi-formality—and as such is appli- cable and correct for many daytime oc- casions. Two types represented of this class Are popular—one with a cape, the other with a jacket. There are others with long sleeves, boleros, short and long | coats, in prints of large patterns with | dark backgrounds, and long. full vet| gracefully slender skirts. But the one| consistent point about all of them is| that as a costume they are complete | and intrinsically smart. Business women can wear these with perfect correctness and be suitably | dressed for the day—continuing on to| dinner and the theater too. They can | be worn with flat crepe coats in black or a matching color, too, and apart | from the chic of this one combination, flat. crepe coat can be worn with & number of costumes that it is always | an economical thing to have. In buy- ing or making such a coat, have a cape effect if it is becoming to you, but be sure that the coat is complete without | the cape. so that another year, for| variety, the coat can be worn without cape and will be one of the al- Ways correct straightline type of thing e JPROBABLY the most helpful item tn the prospective wardrobe for hot be the suit. It is appli- | cable for town and country wear in its | different variations, but its greatest value | 1s for town wear. A suit achieves, first, | a well-dressed appearance—discreet, in g00d taste, and completely smart—and, | second, it 'is cool. | The best of these suits and the ones most worthy of note follow the trend | of the dressmaker suit of the Spring| and have short jackets. High lighted among these are the printed crepe suits. | They are two or three plece, a dress| and a bolero jacket or coat, or the jack- et and skirt of a print and a pl color blouse that accents a dominant color note. The prints here are small —blossoming or spriggy ones—cubes— and, of course, polka dots—and many other motifs of astrological and geo- metrical design. The dresses and the blouses are short-sieeved or sleeveless— & cool point in their favor. o ox o FYHEN there is another family of ma- terials—one that has heretofore had completely sport tendencies. Shan- tung, pique or linen is being shown in tailleurs and the softer dressmaker type of suit in street colors. Pleated skirts, man-tailored coats make them most trim looking things—and their crisp, washable quality adds a fresh appear- ance to their natural eoolness. They can be worn with tailored blouses or frilly rufly ones—and they are complete | in their correctness and chic. (Copyright. 1930y Careful Sp;cch Is Not Affected ‘There are some persons who seem to fmagine that every one who speaks with more precision or greater cultivation than they do is affected. The country pemson thinks the city dweller is “put- on” when he uses words and ges not in the country man's v cabulary. The meagerly educated per- son is inclined to regard as afectation the lingo of the college man, and the n who scorns books regards as idey” the wide vocabulary of the man ‘whose diversion is reading. Most per- sons of sufficient wealth to enjoy a cer- tain amount of Jeisure and social inter- course, to travel and to see the world at various angles, acquire a certain fluency of speech that annoys the man or | woman who has little opportunity to | cultivate ease in conversation Let us say that you meet a group of artists. They talk in an exaggerated manner about matters of art, speak of certain matters of technique that you have never even heard of as if they were of colossal importance, rattle on about this artist and that—whose names mean nothing to vou—as if they were the greatest men in the world: and use art terms that you have always hesi- tated to pronounce aloud with amazing glibness. All this annoys you. It doesn't seem as it any one could talk that way naturally. You condemn these artists as bly affected. And yet—were you suddenly to abandon your present vocation, and devote your time and energy to the study and practice of art, to work with artists and talk | it would entirely So there you are. It is very easy to | condemn Of 10 be offended by what seems to be the affected manner and speech of others. Teally wffected sspeech is, of course, distinctly offensive. W Moreover. mess of mind and lack of real worth. | But it is the easiest in the world $o misjudge others in matter of it indicates, usually, shallow- | ti Favored in 2% T _ T O 7 Left—This shantung suit has a dual meaning in the wardrobe, light colors it is indubitably smart for spectator sport wear—in dark colors it supplies the much needed cool suit for town. The jacket is cut in a de- cidedly new way with an oval neckline—and it is belted at the mormal. Right—Here is a suit that follows to chic perfection the theme of the dressmaker suit of Spring. .Not the leadl part of its sophistication is that it is made of black linen—hich gives it a new importance. softly ruffied handkerchief linen blouse, and a belt tied at the mormal waistline, in surplice effect. Old Clothes and Boys’ Pride Jerry Wanted a Blue Suit With a Red Stripe, But Not the One That Dick Had Worn—Taking Turns at Looking Like a Poor Man’s BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. ¢ JERRY, come here.” | “I'm eomin’.” “Yes, s0's the Fourth of July here! I want you to try this on.” “That's Dick's old suit. “Well, what if it is! Stick in your lips and don't look so disgusted. You nearly turned inside out when Dick got it. you were 5o jealous. You've been coaxing for six months for a_ blue suit with a red stripe in it. Now here it is. as good as new, and you're acting as if you were the Prince of Wales. This suit’s as good as new. “I know, but——" Jerry paused, in- articulate. “I know, but—" He looked | down at his knees that had so long struggled to keep thei 1f-respect un- der these same gray knickers that co ered them now, during all those agoniz. ing weeks when, strapped in tightly, the plus-fours had looked more like plus- tens, and ruffied ones at that Now. the long legs, stretching away to new glories both above and below those shrinking knees, had finally saved the day and his self-respect. The suit was ready for the rag-bag. but it fitted its second owner at last. The boys no longer yelled. “Suit, where are you going with the boy?” or nicknamed him Charlie Chaplin “Here! Hop in. Jooks.” “It looks fine on Dick.” ventured Jerry encouragingly. “I heard him say on Sunday that he wouldn't take anything for it “You know perfectly well that Dick's grown a foot since last year. When he puts this suit on he looks like a darning needle on stilts. He has to have a new one. Here now, hurry." Jerry took the trousers gingerly be- tween two fingers. “‘Say, mom,” he said hopefully, “Mrs. Akers made a suit longer for Bill. She pieced it under here somewhere, you never could tell it, and Bill looks grand. Dick wouldn't mind Come I want to see how it No answer. The look of grim determi- nation in his mother’s eye ret‘led the matter. Jerry hastily shed the tattered but now decently fitting old gray and eclipsed himself in the enveloping biue. He shuddered as he raised his eyes to the tilted mirror. The worst had hap- pened. It was even worse than he had expected, more dreadful than tic gray had been at its ignominious beginning The trousers bagged like inverted para- chutes around both of his skinny calves aimost to his ankles. The sleeves were saluting his knuckles “Oh, mom!” he begged “What are you ‘Oh. momming’ about? It looks fine.” All boys get new suits a little big for them. Nobody will ever know. Go and show your father.” Jerry went. “Minnie,” said Mr. Brown a think few min- utes later, “don’t you at suit s 7 7 272 7)) 77 __ _ _ . | child's native abilities | | 7/ 77 77, 7/ 7 L % 4. 7 4 7 @ 7 7/ 74 v U 2 . A % 7 722 7 7 N 7/, Z \ \ A 777 2 i i /%/// _ 7 In There is @ all Summer, and say he's gone to Eu- | rope.” “T was going to suggest.” put in Mr. | Brown, “that you let me take Dick and | the blue sult to the tailor around the | corner and see if he can't let those | trousers and sleeves down. Then for once you can get Jerry a new suit all his own “Very well. But you'll see. Dick will look like & darning needle on—" “Well, let him! Let him take his turn looking like & poor man's son. 1It's mot | fair pushing all the hard luck on Jerry. And maybe when the taxes are paid 1| can wangle a new suit for Dick, oo, & | little later | “Well, I wash my hands party. See what y she ‘smiled. “Jerr, it’s your | can do.” Suddenly | Oh, Jerry, come | here.” Jerry sniffied in. “What is it, mom?” “Why, dad’s going to get you & nice | b;nn' new sult. What do you think of | that?” | The transition from misery to joy on | Jerry's face can be likened to nothing else on earth | “A new suit!" he gasped. “New! For me?” He touched the breast of his coat “Say, pop, can I have a blue one with a red stripe, just like this?" Hobbies I\;[ay Be: Turned to Account The woman of today who finds her- | self faced with the necessity of earning | her own living or helping with the family expenses often solves her problem by turning her hobby to account. Facts show that there is far more chance of winning the race by riding your hobby, whose gait and pecullarities you know, than by mounting a strange horse of & more swift-gaited appearance. One prominent soclety woman in the days of prosperity kept rabbits as a hobby. Now she makes both ends more than meet by breeding angora rabbits for their fur. Yet when she suggested taking up rabbit breeding as a liveli- hood, friends told her that it would be wiser for her to learn stenography and g0 to WOrk as a private secretary. Another woman whose only hobby was playing the ukulele decided in the day of adversity to turn this to good ac- count. She sought out three other ukulele players and formed a ukulele quartet, which has met with decided success. Whatever your hobby happens to he— embroidery, “raising tulips, concocting homemade cosmetics, motoring, lamp- shade making, book collecting, private theatricals—the chances for success are far greater in some one of these activ- ities than in some cut-and-dried profes- sion or business that other people sug- gest to you. Not only does the hobby often show the way to success for the adult woman who finds herself faced with the prob- lem of earning her daily bread, but the hobbies of children—trivial as they may seem—may very often point the way to the selection of a suct them. Not only does a boy or gir] ac- quire considerable proficiency in the pursuit of a hobby, but, since hobbies are almost always chosen voluntarily they give a very good index of the Jade and Lapis . In New Jewelry Carvel semi-precious stones—: | laguli, amethyst, jade, rose qu.m—-‘lwr’: a little—just a little—too big for Jerry?” much used for brooches, necklaces and Why—he's nearly 13 ol as Dick was | CATTings. They may even be hournt o o, I do: “But Dick grows like a bad weed snd Jerry doesn't. Ji will never be very tall. My, my! What's that?” Mrs. wn listened. “It's bawling,” he said. “Look here, Milton, if we were rich I'd never make Jerry wear Dick's old suits.” “Well—you see, my dear, I know how children razz him.” “Then give me $10. suit, toot. sweet.” 'r'n‘ez him & new “The taxes are——" sets, though many women hesitate to long pendants. often identica Jerry |in size with the pendant which hangs from s fine chain for the neckiace | anuem.l{t ):.he necklace lch-ln is inter- | ‘spersed with several small beads of | carved stone! sk ‘The brooches are from two to four inches long, rather broad, and are pinned usually to the bodice up toward | the shoulder. Sometimes they hold a | ou go. We'll put Jerry to bed w@mflowchphm. One of the new after- noon frocks with femi- nine inclinations is done in a large leaf design— dark colors on a light The skirt that for all its width ground. circular retains a smart molding line, reaches the ankles— a new length created [or the late-inthe-day fash- ions. cessful career for | .’ Warm Days in Town HOW to look cool and feel cool in town on a brofliag July or August day has ever been a problem. Whether one s s.aying in town or comes in from the ocountry for the day, the problem is the same. One does mot want to be too informal. Pale colors and sleeveless dresses in town are neither practical nor in good taste. Dark colors are preferable—but which ones? Solid biack :nd‘ brown frocks look hot—so dark blue or a combination of blue and white or black and white becomes a good old standby. Small checked fabrics are also worn a great deal—in both with a small flower design in neutral colors are show the dust of wrinkles as do solid color . A jacket and skirt of crepe, linen or gingham are popular and correct. One can have a fresh blouse each day so one can keep fresh and neat looking. I{ chiffon is worn during the day in town, it should not be an enormous design that is intended for evening nor should the skirt be almost sweeping Whe pavement. Clothes should be neither too di nor too much .of. the sport. variety, though of the two evils the latter less offensive. HELEN DRYDEN. Left—Flat crepe in dark colors is always a smart and practical fabric for « Summer town frock, Capes being much in the mode, this large crush collar combines black and white in a variation of the eape thews. A peplum is achieved by shaped pieces on the hips. Right—Smart fashions for Summer, 1930, include dressmaker suits— that is becoming to most women. Just such a suit is shown here in a one-piece dress of printed chiffon with a short jacket that has a circular peplum and a normal waistline. Mark Linen. 1 Tt is a good plan to mark all bed linen with the date of its purchase. | You can either do this in indelible ink or else you can cross-stitch the date on. Or, with less work, you can cross-stitch | & sort of shorthand date on the linen | that is, put an X on the linen, and in | a note book kept in the linen closet put the key—X means April 1, 1930 Two Xs mean July, 1929. Three mean | linen on hand before that date. For Freckles. ! A good lotion for freckles is made from 10 cents’ worth of rosewater and 10 cents' worth of simple tincture of | benzoin. Add to these the juice from one lemon and mix well. Rub on the freckles every night But, as in the case of other skin troubles, prevention is better than cure with regard to freckles. Remembering always to wear | a hat, and using proper face cream at the right time, will save you much complexion bother. a soft flattering sype of gormens Figured Fabrics in New, Neat Designs Prove Tempting Despite Inclination Toward Change—Prints Differ From Last Year's Sprawling Designs—Charming Figures for Daytime Wear Produced by Eyelet Embroidery on Cotton Materials—Various Types Which Are BY »;A!Y MARSHALL. OWARD the close of last Summer almost every one was a little “fed up” on figured prints. There had been such a riot of them! The flower printed chiffon— usually showing large designs in con- fusing combinations of colors—made a strong appeal during the early months of the Summer. It was cool, youthful and dainty, and withal surprisingly practical. Women wore dresses of this sort at thé seashore where plain-colored Accessories Come in Pairs Matching Methods| Must Be Employed This Summer. Shoes Seldom Walk Alone—Sports Styles Introduce In- genious Ensembles in| Way of Accessories. A CCESSORIES, like cards in & gooa poker hand. come in pairs and trios | when they want to win for their owners this Summer. | Nothing is more forlorn, as a mat- ter of fact, than a lonesome, single | accessory of one kind or another. You must match this up with that It vou want chic. And the different ways you can find of matching acces- | sories up ie perfectly amazing. | A new Parls frock has its black gloves trimmed with ebony and pearl buttons and its black suede gloves and pumps also trimmed with the same. | A trio of real beauty! | " Shoes seldom walk alone this Sum- mer. The very newest affnity they have is belts. There are multitudinous kinds of belt and shoe combinations All of them are colorful, all give the high-light in fone to the costume they accompany. Some are of fabric, some are of fancy skins, like baby sharkskin and boroso kid. Many are embroidered, many inlaid with other leathers in de- sign One of the very smartest is a pair of white kid oxfords and matching belt, all handstitched in bright red to g0 with a white shantung suit or frock. The belt has a modernistic buckle in | white enamel, with a wide diagonal| |line of red, matching up the diagonal | stitchings of the belt and shoes. | One of the outstanding styles features for Summer is found in the fabric | berets’ that match up scarf and purses, The latest ones are of shantung or of wash pique. They come in all colors and some are perfectly stunning. One such set, is made of hand-blocked shantung in a -umlnlly_flz design of llow, black and white, same de- in the three of this is excellent with a tweed sult of a yellow and black mix- | ture, with a plain black silk suit, or with a white shantung outfit. As a o5 | up the gloves. matter of fact, it looks fine with many different types of costume. Sports things have a way of intro- ducing ingenious ensembles in the way of aceessories. The newest is the twin- fabric idea carrled out in a figured ailk tie, of foulard or necktie silk, and matched up design and color in linen One of these sets comes in two tones of blue, with all-over floral design, dark blue on light. The handkerchiefs in these sets, incidentally, are just as big as a_man’s handkerchief. Other new and novel ensemble sete include a white plque and black patent in | leather outfit of sports shoes, gauntlet gloves and beret. The different pieces are made of the white pique and have the edges bound in patent leather. The shoes’ heels are of the same pat- | ent leather, too. For evening, it is quite the thing nowadays for one who wears a quaint. drop-shoulder frock of fine lace to have old-fashioned mitts made of the same lace. Gloves and purses also match and scarfs are matching up in silks for Summer’s outdoor world. New Skirts. The new, flaring-skirt silhouette is achieved in different ways, but the de- gree of the flare depends to some extent on the type of the dress. On suits and street clothes generally it is slight. In thin materials for sports wear it is sometimes produced by pleats stitched from the waistline well below the hips. In tweed and other suit materials the flare i8 often accomplished merely by a slight goring of the sections of the skirt. Sometimes there is a deep shaped | skirt. yoke to which a slightly circular lower section is attached Inexpensive Prizes There is no need of giving expensive card prizes, and the shops are so full of & number of attractive and inexpen- sive things, that one might almost say there is no excuse for giving expensive ones. There is meothing more appro- priate than hing d with card play numbered of table ers, num! dogen or ity tally cards. All ‘are sure to be Scceptable. L4 e Doga ‘ire killing many more shee than usual In Ireland this season, packs of cards, a .get of | O ive score pads, & set pencily, a Favored. |linens, shantungs or crepe de would have been ever so much appropriate They motored in dined in them, wore them to full of bundlies after & ahopping trip, thin women wheeling baby carriages, young girls dancing at the country club, middle-aged women playing bridge on the verandas of Summer hotels. ste- nographers taking dictation in eity of- fices—you saw them all in many-hued | floral printed chiffons. It is not surprising that plain-toned | materials were much in e this Spring and that many well dressed | women were rather cautious about choosing prints of any sort. But this season’s printed materials have proved too tempting to resist and have come to us as something quite different from last year's sprawling designs. *xox o AS 4 rule, the printed materials eho- sen for day-time dresses are rather small, | neater and somewhat more formal. There is less striving for orig- inal effects and unusual color combins- tions, a greater willingness on the part of the designers, it would seem, to go back to the conventional patterns of the past for inspiration. Many of the most charming figures for day-time wear this Summer are produced by eyelet embroidery on nain- sook or other cotton materials. These materfals are used for sleeveless blotuses to be worn under jacket suits, for sc- cessory collars and cuffs and some for whole dresses. Dotted swiss 1s also decidedly smart this Summer, either with dois matching the mateiral or in contrasting color, while batiste and other sheer cotton materials sometimes show embroidered, colored, floral de- signs. LR ‘ONI of the smartest frocks I have | seen for the Summer wardrobe was | made of white handkerchief linen | showing a design of embroidered daisies |in " green, yellow and brown. | sleeves and neckline were outlined with bands of yellow and brown linen, and the white hat was banded with yellow | and brown ribbon. Printed cotton broadcloth, printed linen and printed pique are all mate- rials for the practical morning dress or | the sports dress that is such a useful ddition to every woman's vacation | wardrobe. Printed cotton volle and eot- ton net are chosen for many afternoon |and evening dresses by way of depar- ture from printed chiffon and silk nets. Flowered taffeta makes a nmf popularity this Summer, full ankle- | length skirts, closely molded bodice out- ‘ lining the curve of waist and hips, pos- | sibly a bouffant bow of plain-toned taf- | feta at back or side. ok ‘THO‘JOH there is always a plentiful | supply of printed silk crepe, chiffen |and cotton dresses among the dis | of the less expensive sort—practical li dresses that do not ext in | black and white prints in the more ex- clusive s, usually rather small designs showing biack on a white back- :nd :‘ we‘ln‘:‘a“ wm:- on & hhak‘ ckground. and green make another smart combination this Sum- mer, (Copyright, 1990.)