Evening Star Newspaper, March 23, 1930, Page 51

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., MARCH 23, 1930—PART THREE. 13 Black Hats Are First Choice Among Accessories for Spring BY HELEN DRYDEN. ODAY the accessories — hats, shoes, bags and stockings—aie just as important cs suit or dress. Particularly important is the hat, for & hat can change a In fact. she sometimes has she will wear a becoming hat which makes her pretty, or a smart hat, not fiattering, but wonderfully chic looking. . Even the same hat may be worn to give very different effects. For instance, there is the severe, off-the-face hat with a softening effect around the crown ot a set-in ribbon, which may be worn without a trace of hair in sight and be striking, or with the hair emphasizing the softness of the trimming and be Just pretty. ‘The new hats are varied in shape and fabric. For town we shall continue to wear close-fitting types, bonmets and turbans, of the synthetic straws as well as fabrics. Just at the moment faille and belting ribbon bonnets and felt and straw combinations are ideal transi- tion hats for those who do not fancy straws with furs. % MUCH to the average woman's de- light, brims are back with us, even on street hats. However, the brim is so cleverly manipulated that somehow an off-the-face effect is given. At least we can see the eyes and often the fore- head. The brim may be cut away or folded a bit, either in front or at one side. A contrasting color may be in- troduced in the ribbon trimming, and these bands may tie around the crown or trim the under brim. The black hat is the first choice for early Spring, even for the more formel hats. It may be brightened with a color when that color is reprated in the costume. Black and white hats are particularly good looking, also black and red, black and beige, and black and bright blue, all colorings repeating the tweed and suiting shades. Tiny white dots embroidered on these black hats are new. They make their appearance on both strays and fabrics. Flowers, too, are blossoming on the new straws, very much as Patou droops lilies of the valley over one ear of & black panamalaque hat. Clusters of dahlia-like fiowers in varied colorings are used as we have used rosettes. And tiny feather fantasies and jeweled pins are still much in evidence. e SKNCE the bag must be linked into the ensemble, it is either of the fabric of the suit or hat or the leather of the shoes. Consequently we see tweed bags appearing with Spring suits There is an envelope design with gold plated chain closing and a pouch model with button closing. Many have the leather trim in appliqued bands and handles which link them to the shoes and belt. Both of these shapes, and a new roll type, are liked in the silk bags which are carried with silk ensembles and dresses. Very often a bag of printed silk is seen with the plain crepe silk and vice versa. Faille, as well as crepe, is used for these bags. Polka dots are just as popular on bags as on dresses. ©On some they are embroidered and on leather bags they are noted in the trim, such as the bands of cream col- ored kid dotted in blue on a blue leather bag. This dotted idea is also carried out in vari-size discs which are ap- pliqued as effective decoration in one corner. One of the newest materials to be used for bags is cinche cloth, the ma- terial that has been used for years on saddles. - In ‘paddock color combined with pigskin y are exceedingly good with the strictly tallored or sports suits. Many of these are of envelope shape with zipper fastening and leather tassel. Some even carry out the envelope idea in the flap closi as noted on the parfait calf with brown banding and clasp. Pnttons, leather or one of the real swnes like carnelian, may be effective as decoration, matching the stone when 1t ap) s in the clasp. On the more strictly tailor-type bags on the pouch order the braided leather handles are preferred. * ok kK FoR women who really want to walk during the glorious Spring weather For- tunately they are as smart as are comfortable, whether of kid, ealfskin or one of the reptile skins with kid trim. They should, however, have the solid leather heel. You may also find these leather heels on pumps intended for walking and street wear. They are a feature of a black antelope pair with steel colored enamel buckles. If you are wedded to the high heels you will have a wide variety of pumps and one-strap shoes all correct for the str-~t in kid, calf- skin, siom which to choose, oxfords are the most practical antelope, etc., . Leisure Once Went With Good Breeding ‘The old idea very frankly used (o be that there was a distinct connection between courtesy, good manners and leisureliness. The woman who lived in comparative idleness was the woman Who set the standard of good breeding. She was genteel if for no other reason than simply because she was leisurely, and the rest of womankind in every stratum of society did their best to imi- tate her manners and her habits. In short, she was a lady, and to be a lady was the ambition of the majority of womankind. It is only recently, comparatively, that we have changed our ideas as far as women are concerned, and, of course, there are some women who still feel that active work for wages in some way robs them of their claim to good breed- len, however, have been emanci- ted from this leisure idea. But it not always been so. Once it was accounted something of & disgrace for a man to know how to read and write. ‘That was the work of churchmen. Knights and gentlemen and noblemen busied themselves with fighting and such noble sports. If they wished to have something written they employed some one to do it for them, and if they ‘wished to have some writing deciphered :.hfn'p applied to the same humble re- T. A hundred years ago it was deemed unworthy of a gentleman to ‘be a pro- fessional musician, and one reason put forth in a book of manners written in those days why a gentleman should not wear short finger nails was that if he did it might be supposed that he “got his bread by fiddling.” And 50 years young ladies were warned not to walk fast in the street— for fear that some one might suppose that they were employed at something and were therefore in a hur?. ‘The idea their manner was supposed to im- ply was that they were utterly indolent. And as a result the leisured manner was considered the well bred manner, and any young woman, even though she did work for a living, if she wished to have the manners of a lady always managed somehow <o that she need not walk rapidly when she went to and came from her work. Now, of course, the woman of leisure finds something to do. She likes to take with her a manner of being very busy and so she often puts in hours a day of work in some pet charity. Glass Sets. ‘The most attractive caraffe and glass sets are sold for the bed room, and cer- tainly one would be an exceedingly good thing for the guest room. The caraffe has a matching glass | fitted over its top in place of a stopper You can buy these caraffes in all sorts of materials and colors. They come in vacuum bottles, enameled in all the lighter shades that might be chosen for a bed room. ‘They come, too, in colored glass. For children they come with painted glass tumblers shaped like cats’ or dogs’ ‘They come in china decorated many patterns, DESCRIPTION OF HATS SHOWN AT TOP, READING FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: BLACK PANAMALAQUE CLOCHE WITH WHITE GROSGRAIN RIBBON ACCENTING THE OFF- THE-FACE LINE. BRIM- MED HAT OF RED KANTANGA STRAW BANDED WITH BLACK AND RED RIBBON. MORE FORMAL HAT OF BLACK KANTANGA STRAW COMBINED WITH FAILLE SILK EMBROIDERED WITH WHITE DOTS. BRIM- MED HAT OF BLACK PANAMALAQUE TRIMMED WITH A BAND OF W-HITE GROSGRAIN, GIVING A HIGH CROWN EF- FECT. DESCRIPTION OF SHOES AND BAGS IN LEFT CENTER PANEL. TOP, LEFT: BLACK OR NAVY BLUE KID SLIPPER WITH BROAD STRAP AND SILVER ORNAMENT. TOP, RIGHT: ENVELOPE BAG OF BLACK AN WHITE CALFSKIN. CENTER, LEFT: SMART SPRING PUMP OF LIZARD COMBINED WITH PATENT LEATHER. CENTER, RIGHT: ONE-STRAP BLACK MOIRE SLIPPER PIPED WITH SILVER KID WITH SMALL BUCKLE AT THE INSTEP. BOTTOM, LEFT: TWO-TONED BROWN CALF OPERA PUMP FOR STREET WEAR. BOTTOM, RIGHT: ENVELOPE BAG OF TWO TONES OF BROWN CALFSKIN WITH GOLD D CLASP. SCRIPTION OF BAGS AND SLIPPER IN RIGHT CENTER PANEL. TOP: BAG OF SOFT PARFAIT CALF WITH CARNELIAN BUTTONS AND NARROW CALF SKIN HANDLE WITH CARNELIAN BEADS. BOTTOM, LEFT: WHITE CINCHE CLOTH BAG WITH BLACK LEATHER TRIMMING, APPROPRIATE FOR SPORTS W. : GL 3 p 8 MING, HIGH HEEL AND ANKLE STRAP BUCKLING AT THr.E::fi'E i e e e il DESCRIPTION OF BAGS AND SHOE SHOWN IN PANEL AT BOTTOM RIGHT. TOP: WHITE LINEN POUCH BAG WITH RED LEATHER APPLIQUE. CENTER: OXFORD OF BEIGE L) PARFAIT CALF WITH SILVER MONOGRAM. BY MARY MARSHALL. IOLET, with a dozen lovely pastel tones of mauve, heliotrope and orchid, making their appearance in the silk or cottorr frocks now shown for warm weather— \Y Indigo and blue in the darker tones for cloth suits, and street dresses and in the pastel tones for resort wear— Green in a dozen charming nuances taking first place among clothes for resort wear and an important place for town wear everywhere— | Yellow, in the slightly grayed “linen" tones, for sports wear, and in light pastel tones for evening— Orange, occasionally, by way of con- trast, with brown or yellow, but not so often seen As a year ago— Red in all the soft tones of rose and pink for evening wear, with flesh tones | often chosen for the blouse to be worn with .he dark lllk‘ o: cloth suit. * * ‘HAT in brief is the rainbow for Spring, in which one finds few of those harsher, shrill colorsgthat fashion |Spring Rainbow Glows in Attractive Colors. Fashion Favors Becoming Hues That Con- tribute to Beauty—Evidence That Pop-| ularity Has Been Achieved by Navy and Other Dark Shades of Blue for Street Clothes—Brown Tweed or Jersey Mixture for Travel or Sports. ZARD WITH BROWN KID TRIMMING. BOTTOM: ENVELOPE BAG OF 50 often offers to women at this time of the year for the sake of mere smart- ness. In the endless yound of fashion | changes we have come to & season of clothes that are gre(ty, and it is only natural that with this turn in taste the dressmakers have provided us with | colors that are preeminently pretty. | ‘There is no longer any question as | to the preeminence of navy and other | dark shades of blue for street clothes. You can make no mistake in choosing this color for the ensemble that yon intend to wear in town. With the navy suit one wears a matching hat, deriving color contrast from the blouse, which may be of a soft, light tone of yellow, | beige or even a very light tone of | mauve or green The warmer shades of brown which enjoyed such widespread popularity | during the cooler months have wisely been put aside at present. Lighter, cool- er brown tones and are seen oc- casionally, but not so 88 last sea- son, and the serviceable brown tweed Small Things That Count A said to me: FRIEND, whose husband was badly hit in the stock market, recently “I do not know what to do. I can only afford to buy one new suit or coat this Spring and I am going to look dowdy till warm weather comes.” Now this woman she has not “hat sen: My reply was: * on it than is your habit. smart brown calfskin envelope bag and you wil has good taste in selecting dresses and coats, but et a better hat than you usually do, spend more Get a good-looklnfi R;lr of brown pumps, & d that your last year's tweed better than you think.” s;‘:l&;&l 1&.“;".'33{"‘3 and the next time we met I was surprised to see how well dressed she appeared. This all goes to prove the d fmportance of accessories. We must ehow the same good judgment in investing in our clothes that we do in making other investments. It is not wise to spend every- thing on the ¢ there is nothing left for the accessories, any -moreg than it gn‘x;lmwu:. l:a.uz all of one’s money into one stock, as did the husband of my friend. or jersey mixture is at its best in the :mcny utilitarian travel or sports cos- ume. * x ok w JBLACK, of course, is used for some of the smartest of the new dresses and sults. 80 k as Paris blazes the trall In matters of dress this is bound to be the case because the French woman has a deep and justifiable con- viCtion that black is smart. Much has been said this Spring concerning the probable importance of gray, but actu- ally it is very little seen in the dark Oxford tones that are at their best in tailored suits of covert and on';_e’:- fine sultmg. e greens Spring are es) tempting. The trick of mufich‘:l::z greens with chartreuse and was Tather overdone last season. we have a great deal of green used with HELEN DRYDEN. | pure white—sometimes with black and | white. Mint green organdle is used for | blouse, vestee or collar and cuffs on | black silk, and various lovely pastel greens are worn with pure white or- | ganie collar and cuffs. Some of the most charming of the new printed silks show green and black res on & white background, or green and white on a black background. (Copyright, 1930.) Eggplant and Bacon | pare and slice the eggplant as desired | and dip_at once into egg (previously seasoned with salt and pepper) and ‘into cornstarch, seeing to it that :‘v’l‘:?y rt is well aovend.mSQ in deep hot fat to & rich brown.. Lay on brown paper to drain, Serve with crisp bacon. Cretonne Tones Up Rooms ITH precisely the same furniture, decorations and rugs, in precisely the sams room, you can poduce an interfor that is charming and indicative of good taste or one that is just the reverse, all by the way in which the furniture and accessories of furnishing are arranged. And the fact that one room is furnished in a way that would not indicate d taste does not neces- sarily mean that the owner of the room lacks taste. She may be as dissatisfied with the arrangement as any one else, only she may lack the courage and ingenuity to go ahead and produce the effect she desires. A living room should indicate the | harmonious life of those who pass their | If chairs are | leisure hours therein. arranged in a too formal manner this is impossible, Something of sociability should be indicated and this is shown by grouping of chairs and lounges in conversational groups. The preoccup= tions and individual tastes of the family should also be indicated and this is done by books, pictures, lamps and well chosen orn ts. o g ool ol oy s, ot family are just as likely to spoil the effect of any living room. The best way to get an attractively arranged living room is, I think, to select the member of the family who has the best taste and greatest resourcefulness in this matter and then to allow her—or possi- bly him—to go ahead and do her best. At this time of year our thoughts turn to cretonne as the fabric best cal- culated to tone up our rooms. It is shown in the shops in many interesting and beautiful designs and colors and certainly gives a touch of Spring to the room where it is hung. The new patterns run all the way from the most modern of modern de- signs to historic floral and landscape patterns, some of which have come down from old tapestries and mrflo{ which have come down from old prints. 8o you can find something to suit any sort of room. It is usually best not to mix two designs in one room, though some- times two designs are printed in the same colors, 50 that the two cretonnes can be harmoniously used—one, haps, for curtains, lnmhrw for fll& (Coprright, 19300 BY BETSY CALLISTER. OLLED santiwiches are really the last word in daintiness afid de- liciousness. They give distinc- tion and .character to & teh Yet they are not difficult to make. A little care and experimenting and any woman can make them. To begin with get a loaf of sandwich bread. If not sandwich bread, an oblong loaf of smooth-grained bre: will do. Cut the crusts off and then cut slices of the bread lengthwise less than a quarter of an inch thick. But- ter these slices on one side and spread them with the filling you wish to use, which 'must be a soft paste. 20 2 Tm begin rolling the slice. Roll slowly, carefully, to keep the bread from eracking, round and round until the whole slice is rolled. Roll the lon| way of the slice, of course. The en: of the slice should be buttered, but not spread with the filing for about a hi inch, as the butter helps hold the r together and, any way, the filling if extended to the edge would make the outside of the sandwiches sticky. Lay the roll away for 20 minutes or half an hour, wrapped in a napkin to help hold its shape. Then slice it cross« wise in thin slices. You may have bet- ter luck if you keep it for the half hour in the refrigerator, so that the filling will be thoroughly chilled before you begin s]lclnf. Good fillings for these rolled san~ wiches are cream cheese and nuts, jelly, minced stuffed olives amd: mayonnaise, cream cheese and ground sweet Ted pepper, cream. cl and: een pepper, jam, fish pastes, cayiar. riment a ifttlé and you cm¥'t help succeeding. PR ANOTH!R interesting bread dish for a tea party is a bread cake To make it, remove the crust from & loaf of bread, slice the bread lengthwise in- several “layers” and spread the with some sort of paste. Put together again and spread the autside smoof with “frosting”—made of cream cl made thinner with @ little: cream. It must be smooth and thim enough to spread . The filling for these layers may be any of the pastes already mentioned. The cream cheese “frosting” may be garmished with nut meats if you wish. (Copyright, 1930.) o Color Blunders Due to Lack of Courage ‘Women are a great deal more color conscious in furnishing their rooms used to be. Americans as & usual g have a keen color percep- tion and women especially have recent- ly given much thought to the question of color harmonies. But still there are altogether too many rooms in which the use of colors is really shocking to a per- son of sensitive taste. Usually we are more alert to the color the homes of our friends homes; at least*we are hem. This is because color :rrom '.hl:l :; t as city peopl ises that would keep %my not realize that y the hit or miss color scheme of our own living room—but we ourselves much better con- were more harmonious. women there are who commit in eolor combination for the and sufficlent reason that tl no better. They may actually be blind, or naturally lacking in coler itiveness. A woman who l::g t golden yellow portieres lined American beauty silk hetween her din- ing and living room and then bought a rug for the living room and & blue for the dining room was un- one of that class. in color assembling are, it seems to me, the result of timid- ity of ene sort or another. One woman lacks the courage to discard certain in« harmonious ornaments in her living room because they are wedding pres- ents, another dreams of a lovely color scheme of gray, cream color and green, but hesitates to carry it out for fear some of her friends might think she was “artistic,” while another is daily disturbed because the old rug the living room swears at the new a new rug, income for Joy to both. Sunlight in Bath Room. Of all rooms in the house the one in which it is mest important to have direct sunlight is the bath room. In pieking out the exposure for the bath ust content yourself with it is not desired for any other . Bear in mind that & bath room that is bathed by the sunm« light needs no artificial disinfectants. niness and sunlight will suffice. If bath room is placed on a side that of & house. When there can be but one bath room in the house there are many ad- vantages in dividing it in two, and having a small laval aside from a room containing the ba However, this _arrangement means somewhat added ex in building, and most builders cling to the old plan of group- ing all the plumbing fixtures in one room. If you are building even a moderately priced house and feel that you can afford but one bath room be wise enough to make your plans so that the addition of a second bath room later will be as simple as possible. It is often possible to get a small second bath room stowed away in & very small space, if one uses the smallest size fixtures, and such a bath room answers the pu for children's or guest room admirably. Usually it costs*less to install & shower bath than a tub, and less space is required. Tomato Sandwich The tomato sdndwich may be made in s0 many different ways that you may serve it three times a week without mo- notony by varying it. It is wholesome, for we find vitamins in tomatoes; it is tempting to all but the few who do not like tomaioes. One sort of tomato sandwich is made by slicing ripe tomatoes on buttered white bread, adding mayonnaise and lettuce, and serving immediately. ‘Another is made by putting ripe to- mato slices and hot slices of be- tween slices of hot buttered toast. Still another good tomato sandwich 1= made by adding sliced tomato to whole wheat bread spread with cream cheese. Use plenty of pepper in this sandwich. Tomato and wal 'ss, with mx: filling. :llceg nation. Airplane Charms A new small leather traveling case, designed for the woman who goes from here to there by airplane, h: enamel reproduction of St. pher on the fil?. 8t. Christopher s the patron of all who travel by land, water or air in Prance, and in PFrance charms bearing his likeness are becom- ing s aviatare es they have