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’ ~ TOP: NATURAL HORSEHAIR BAG WITH RED LEATHER TRIM. MINGS, SECOND DOWN, RIGHT: AMEL, MARCASITE AND ROSE DIAMONDS, WITH EARRINGS MATCH. SECOND DOWN, LEFT: EXTRA LARGE LINEN HAND. KERCHIEF IN TWO SHADES OF BLUE. BOTTOM AG LEATHER OR FABRIC WITH GOLD TOP AND CHAIN HANDLE. ANTIQUE NECKLACE OF B OF Costume Jewelry Becomes Definite Factor. o Ensemble Matching or Contrasting With Costume--Pendant: Barrings, Narrow and Wide Bracelets, Brooches and Necklaces Show:Dainty-Patterns Joining Together Various Colored'Stones' “Antique Jewelry Is Receiving Much Cos-nmx Jewelry today is ss definite & factor of the en- semble as the hat or the shoes. We no longer select a -neck- lace or bracelet because it is pretty and we like the color, but be- cause it matches exactly the color of our costume or contrasts with it in the right way. We must also consider its type and whether it properly be- longs to the Tostume for which we are buying it. Costume jewelry is di- vided into the classifications of sports, daytime, formal afternoon and eve- ning, just as our clothes are. For jewelry of the sports type we| & have borrowed from -the East, from P? Africa, from quaint conceits of the past and from all manner of modern conceptions. There are necklaces con- sisting of three strands of galalith beads which are graduated from the small in the back to very Jarge in front and shade from light in the back to a deep tone in front and in the center is a ]:-ze silver ball. With brown and pink, and yellow strong on the fleld of sports, brown necklaces are in favor, but there are also violet, blue, green and red counterparts. Bands of beads rang- ing from three to six strands make up the bracelets. * % X % A! & result of the vogue for basque colorings we find red sports jewelry. It is used alone, combined with black and gold and sometimes with white enamel. The vogue for blues is reflected in a tone known as Grecian blue which is effective com- bined with silver metal, as is also amethyst, Prystaline bracelets which everybody wears with sports clothes, the wider the smarter, come in all the bright colorings as well as pastels. We have been seeing fruit so long serving as an inspiration for fabric de- sign that it is not surprising to find lemons, apples, oranges, pineapples and almonds carved out of galalith beads. ‘The effect is attractive in the choker necklaces, especially as the natural col- orings are given, set off with smooth beads and rondels. Metal jewelry ap- pears in many interesting new forms. Just as we find beads larger and more brilliant so metal pleces are ~more massive. With pearls the sun-tan shades are more than ever in demand, partic- \ularly a lustrous pink. Green, which lends so well with the sun-tan skin, is also good. And that has brought k simulated jade in oblong, round or are cut stones, many carved and set dull gold, silver, black enamel or sded pearls, ‘Two-tone rls are a novelty, and so are necklaces where aliernating groups of color are used, * % FOR all stones we find necklaces ‘Attention at‘Present. the longer chains dre fully 60 inches. Bracelets range from the very narrow, delicate strands to bands, either flex- ible or rigid, 2 to 3 inches wide. Lo earrings are also more desirable. even! un these earrings are often’ exag- gerad in length and massiveness, lending a picturesque touch in keeping with the period type of the "evenfng clothes: The- so-called chandelier ear- rings are composed of four or five strands of fine. crystal beads and are worn with four-strand crystal neck- laces with antique gold medallions at the sides. ‘This. is a fitting comple- ment to the many white satin evening owns. Much jewelry for evening follows in es! the museum’ plecés of precious stones, although it may be developed in sterling silver and multi-colored small stones. Pendant earrings, narrow and wide bracelets, brooches and necklaces all dainty patterns . joining to- gether the various colored stones in the manner of the master designers, Semi- precious stones' are combined with marcasite in a similar way. Then there is white-stone jewelry in which bag- uettes and other cut rhinestones are combined with erystals, and the black and white pleces, jet and onyx, crystals and rhinestones. 4y Tk ok %k % JFOR the formal afternoon costumes antique jewelry is receiving great. attention. - Here dark blue enamel is effectively comhbined with rose - mda t.mli,l ld“wit‘: pendant 3- s of yellow gol & center motif of enamel set with old rose or dia- monds and of white enamel ‘to be matched to & necklace, and & bracelet of the blue enamel and gold leaves. Amethyst and turquoise are other colorings which are particularly appropriate in jewelry of this type. Rock crystal faceted like diamonds in massive effect is also worn, three and four bracelets matching the loosely- hung necklace. An intense interest in color is char- | acteristic of the present day. both in | dress and other decorative arts. This new color consciousness is reflected in Jewelry, and :its importance 45 often- | magnified because frequently the ncck- | lace or brooch suplies the one note of colored costume. Rings are sometimes worn with sports clothes, but they must be chasen with the same sense of fitness for the oc- made of prystal are very new.. The designs carved in these simulated stones are distinctly modern, giving an elfldec’t uite e:l.flr:nn"nt mma t.humol fll”:‘t old-i 3 prot the word “modern” as applied to dress and accessories very often signifies the rrimm‘*e made practical. Particularly lovely among the pastel toncs in these growing longer. Even chokers no d o eogt® "B 10 theis iz, Wle| o oo i) e casion ns necklaces or bracelets. Those | iny THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., FEBRUARY 2, 1930—PART THREE, TOP, Scientific Methods =+~ FImprove-Kitchen Come into the kitchen, pleasel - And probably "the first thing you 1 do will be to make a dash for the salt box, becatse«you forgbt to seagon fne. bolling potatoes. Anyway, it's safe to ‘wager that in a minute or two youn a few of vinegar’ for the several tal nfuls of sugar, & touch of nutmeg or & sprinkling or ger. must have its The. Bircat of Home spice. Bureau. Economics of the United States ent of iture has discovered that most kil do not have containers for the ususl culinary placed in con- venient positions, Therefore it.is aa- vocating & work cenfer for the prepa- ration of food which will have special laces for them. Housewives who fol- w . the bureau’s suggestions - will ne longer have an excuse for letting food §0_unseasoned. . In the type of kitchen that Uncle Sam is arranging for his domestic nieces you need only press a few but- tons, turn a few knobs, take ‘s few steps, and lo, there is a meal fit to set before your husband himself! If it is true that the route to masculine affections hasn't changed, the bureau is certainly providing locomotive speed along the well known trail. Here are a few rules to remember in_planning & successful kitchen: Put & window over the sink, for it will assure & good day-time lighting. If you can't have a, d ‘board on each side of the sink, put it on the Jeft. Thus, your dishes won't have 'oh:re ted from one hand ,to the other, S Make the sink the right helght, Architects have a dreadful habit of ;on;t‘un‘:- that hnuuv,vévex c’:me' in aif- ere) sl . This same ru] Theight applies to all nth':r aurscu. o [ ave & l:r! rate working surface for each kind work and put it n‘a close as possible to its .companion saving devices, B Nurses Always Look Their Very Best ‘There is something about & nurse's uniform that adds a certain sort of charm to almost any woman's appear- ance, and we all have seen pital nurses who looked really fascinating on duty, but who paled into insignificance when dressed In street or evening clothes. - These uniforms, adapted 1o ‘the new fashions, are more attractive than ever, They are enough to make any youn wm,t to go nfv,o training. ‘The Mm of the new uniforms flare. slightly from a waistline that might be described as - 1" and the hemline ends five | buf color on & white,. black or neutral- ;o Six Tnches bel tuate the of the waist and the V-necklines with turnback collars are as comfortable as they are becom- 8. Mending Celluloid. Ether has a wonderful effect in keep- B Bk, St L and Tun some ‘ether ’a?ifk‘“{h. crack. The celluloid will then soften, and nat- urslly work itself into one plece again When g3, becORIng. REIES TR JoNel LEFT: PIN SEAL OR CALF BAG WITH PEARL AND MARCASITE CLASP AND MONOGRAM. ~+ 'PIN SEAL OR CALF BAG WITH GOLD CH. Anything that is not quite rig whole and, whether it be much or knowing what's what. an endless quantity. not need a dozen. Latter Prove Worth- while Incentive to Group of Card Play- ers—One for Four at Tables Viewed as Proper Proportion— Announcement of Rules. ‘ BY BETSY CALLISTER. N this country, at least, a subtle but real line is drawn between the practice of playing-cards for prizes and playing the same games for actual money. Theoretically, the difference may be inconsiderable, but in actual practice it is enormous. In almost every section of the coun- try when representative women of the community assemble to pass an after- noon together playing bridge, prizes of some sort are expected. But it is only in the larger cities, and there only among certain sets, that playing for money-—even small amounts of money— is looked upon with favor. Therefore, when a reader writes nylng that she is planning to give a large bridge party for the members of an important club to which she belongs and asks whether she should permit playing for money, or. whether she should provide prizes instead, my answer would be definitely in favor of prizes. No one can be of- fended by the giving of prizes. Certain conscientious objectors—who see no difference between playing for prizes and playing for money—there may be, it women have the privilege of declining a prize if they have a score that entitles them to one. In most groups of -bridge players there is an unwritten regulation as the 'Erlce that the hostess should pay for er prizes. If your friends usually do not give prizes that cost more than $2 | apiece, then it would be in rather hld! taste for you to offer a prize much more costly than this. On the other hand, if you cannot af- ford to pay so much for prizes, you may solve your problem in a satisfactory way by presenting prizes that you have made yourself, the actual cost of which Do They Go Together? So often one hears a woman ug‘ “It isn't qulhm ht, but it will do.” just as bad as if it were altogether wrong. It wil There are few things that so show up a woman's niceness of taste or lack of it as the accessories she chooses. It is not a question of having For instance, let us consider handbags. ‘Three carefully selected bags day with tallored things, one for afternoon and one for evening. But they must be good ones—that is, in good taste and of good L Then, t00, the right jewelry at the right time. Yet one still sees such ) ling combinations, as sparkling jewelry with % clothes, After , you do_not serve chocolate cake with the soup. y just do not go together. Why not apply the same rule to your clothes, and each time you dress stop and’ask yourself, “Do the; Money and Prizes in Bridge may not exceed 50 or 60 cents. A guest vel with s hand-werked s especially ing to clothes, is mar the effect of the little, one will be criticized for not One does are enough, one for material. y ether?” L He HELEN DRYDEN., dainty handkerchief that you have made, & card-table cover—these things are always acceptable and may be made at small cost by the woman who is handy with a needle. The question of how many prizes to glve—whether to give first and second prizes and consolation prizes as well— may be answered by ring on one prize for each four players. Thus if you have an evening party of two tables, one first prize for men and one first prize for women will answer. If there are four tables, then you may have a first and second prize for men and the same for women. If you decide to have the players “pivot” rather than progress—and this is_sometimes the best arrangement at a large party where many of the guests are strangers to‘each other—then it is customary to have one prize for the best. lpllfir at each table. These prizes should as much alike as possible. For an evening party where there are man and woman players these table prizes should consist of something that would be as appropriate for a man as for a woman—a pack of -looking cards or a box of candy, for instance. Candy or salted nuts packed in an attractive box are always acceptable, and these may be made at home at considerable saving. You may be able to buy an attractive little -bowl or jar for as little as 10 cents. This filled with salted nuts which may be blanched and salted at home, and then wrapped attractively in waxed paper and tled with a ribbon, makes a prize that any one would appreciate. At a party attended only by married couples it is sometimes & good plan to offer a prize to the couple whose added scores are the highest. In this way a more expensive prize may be given. When plan is to be followed the hostess should, I think, indicate the fact at the outset, so that there need be no possible misunderstanding when the prizes are awarded. (Copyright, 1030 Orange Pudding. One cup bread crumbs, two table- spoonfuls butter, two cups scalded milk, two egg yolks, one-third cupful sugar, Juice and grated rind two oranges. Add bread crumbs and butter to scalded milk and soak 30 minutes; then add egg yolks, beaten with sugar, and onel?e juice and rind. Pour into but- tered pudding dish and bake in a mod- erate oven until firm, Cover with meringue and - . CENTER, LEFT LEFT: ONE AIN HANDLE. TOP CENTER: BEIGE SILK SCARF WITH BORDER DESIGN OF REGNY COAT IS REPRODUCED IN TWEED FOR THIS BAG. ;‘0"!‘!8 GOLD. THIRD DOWN, RIGHT: PIN SEAL OR CALF Hats Must Be Smartly Worn Hats' that are really smart are now- adays within the reach of all, but it is one thing to wear a smart hat and quite another thing to wear a hat smartly. Some women take pains to adjust their hats only when they are new or only when they are quite expensive, and some women feel that just because a hat is expensive they themselves should be relieved of all responsibility in the matter. According to one milliner American ‘women are the inferior of French wom- en in this gentle art of putting on their hats. Young girls, she says, are espe- clally careless in the way they treat their hats, and it is only because they ss the charm of youth and a style that is characteristic of American girls in particular that they manage to look as well as they do. You may agree with this little milliner—or you may not— but anyway' you may be interested in hearing her directions and warnings. One should be very careful in han- dling a hat. When you take a hat from its box lift it lightly out by the crown and then slip one hand under the hat so that finger prints may not be made on the brim. Light-toned hats are very easily soiled and even spotless- ly clean fingers leave imprints on velvet or_soft felts. In putting the hat on the head hold one hand on either sidé of the crown lightly, and then bring the hat down over the head, pressing it down at the back of the head first and then bring- ing it forward to the desired angle. In pressing the hat down bring what pressure is needed on the lower part of the crown, Never pull it down by the brim, as this §s sure to spoil the shape, up:clllly if the hat is of the draped sor Never let a milliner persuade you to buy a hat that is too snug. It is quite true that hats of soft materials will “stretch!” after they have been worn a few times, but this enforced stretching brings an undue strain on the hat ana may entirely spoil its line. What Will .Fashions Be in Five Years? Five years from now will we be wear- ing skirts that trail the ground, skirts that hang evenly, skirts that hang in loops or scallops or skirts that are knee h? What ' about waistlines? Where will they Be? Possibly at the so-called nor~ ‘mal ition, possibly below normal and justias possibly inches above normal as they were worn in the Directoire pe- riod or during the Directoire revival some fifteen years ago. What_color will our stockings be? ‘What will be the smart way of arrang- ing the hair? Will hats be softer and more honnetlike than ever or will they return to more formal lines? Questions like these present them- selves some time or other to every woman who is interested in matters of dress, and usually one woman's guess is as as another’s. Just by way of diversion and to test your skill as a prophet or your luck as & guesger, you might write down your ansy to thess and other possible questions concerning the outcome of present fashion tendencies. Then stow your little pregnesi~:tion away in a safe place in yo'r desk or seorctary and BLACK AND YELLOW. TOP, RI Jacket Suits Bring BY MARY MARSHALL. ITH the stores so full of such a wide variety of materials, silks, cottons, linens, wool- ens and rayons, in such a wide varlety of colors and weaves there is no reason why we should not all wear materials suitable to the occasion during the coming aifln[ and Summer. The time has gone when a woman may feel justified in ‘wearing crepe de chine for all occasions. And certainly there is no advantage in excluding everything but silk materials from one's wardrobe. There are occa- sions even in warm weather when the new fine woolens are more appropriate than any sort of silk, times when cotton or linen is more suitable than either woolen or silk. Never since the art of weaving was first invented has there been such a wide variety of materials for women to choose from—and never has there been such & wide range of lovely colors. Merely to see tl wealth of lovely fabrics as they aré shown now in the department stores is enough to make one take a renewed interest in clothes. * ok ok ok THEH.E dre soft-toned, light-weight Jerseys, striped wash silks, dotted swisses, cotton piques, wool georgette almost as supple as silk, figured silks, figured and plain chiffon, nets, laces, embroidered cottons, printed ns, laces, tweeds, twilled woolens, shan- tungs, printed and plain—and dozens of new materials called by names that are as yet strange to our ears. Just to see Blue Plates in BY BETSY CALLISTER. BLUE plates are quite the vogue. of course, they may be of any color—pink or yellow or green. They are ue” plates if they are those eompartment plates so much used now- adays that.began their career, probably, in some standard blue china, The idea seems to be with these plates that the food is kept desirably sepa- rated. Gravy from the meat doesn't run, for instance, into the fried egg- plant, where it is not wanted. The pickle doesn’t mix up with the potato. ‘The butter and water from the string beans don't moisten the roast lamb. And the result is quite satisfactory. These plates are now sold in china of many different patterns, so that you can find something to harmonize with your regular pattern even if it does not exactly match. Sometimes the plates are made of glass, and these, of course, look well with any service. They are especially nice for the informal Sum- mer luncheon served in the garden or And, | 4 13 OF THE NEW LOOSE CHOKERS OF GALALITH BEADS AND RONDELS. BOTTOM, LEFT: TWO SHADES OF GREEN, SECOND DOWN, RIGHT: NECKLACE OF CARVED GALALITH BEADS WITH BL ACK BAG WIT H MARCASITE MONOGRAM. BOTTOM, RIGHT: THIS BAG IS A COPY OF A P! IGHT: THE POCKET ON A JANE AND GOLD RONDELS AND A CHOKER OF BLUE ENAMEL 'OCKET ON A JANE REGNY COAT OF TWEED WITH RED BUT- Wide Range of Materials Is Forecast for Spring Months—Cottori 'and Linen Are Now Competing With Silk for Popular Favor. Twill Fabrics to Share Honors With Shantung—Great Variety of Attractive Colors Being Presented. them is enough to make one eager to have as large and as varied & wardrobe as_possible. The jacket suit has established its claim at the Seuthern resorts for first choice among _street costumes for Spring. You may select a suit of the two or three-piece sort—jacket and skirt, or jacket, blouse and skirt. Most of the new three-pi ensembles con- sist of separate bl and skirt instead of a skirt mounted on a slip top with an overblouse to go with it.” The sep- arate skirt has the advantage that it may be worn with either a tuck-in blouse or an overblouse. * oKk THI return of the jacket suit has brought back into favor a numbes of suiting materials that have been lit tle used of late years. Tweed no longei reigns supreme—though to tweed in its wide variety of weaves and colors should be given credit for renewed interest in all woolen materials. Now we have serges and a variety of twilled materials that lend themselves better to the smartly-tailored suit than the more loosely woven tweeds. While the jacket suit of wool will oc- cupy our first attention, there is every reason to believe that the interest in this type of costume will be prolonged through warmer months by means of the light suit made of silk or linen. Of all silks, shantung and similar rough silks meet the requirements of the jacket suit best, and pique divides hon- ors with uncrushable linens and linen- like cotton materials. (Copyri Good Standing little depressions on the that dis vides them. These depressions are to ld such condiments as mustard and chow-chow, Usually “blue plates” have three com- rtments, - but - sometimes they have four. The three-compartment plate is usually divided ‘into a large one for meat and two for vegetables. You can, it youtg:em, iut one of the vegetables with 8 me; If you h;ve ’:h"i.clen croquettes and green peas, for instance, you can rut them in the big comparte ment, with cream sauce over the cro- Quettes. Then one of the other: com- partments may hold, we'll say, candied sweet potatoes and the other a jellied tomato salad. That's just & suggestion. Plain and Figure, white background and { in the same colors printed on background. If you: ean on the veranda, or for the party where ret] hearty refreshments are desired, but where it is easier for the guests to five years frc.i now open # and read it o dl Eatseayn ot 2fegtion or amusement, have a single plate to look after. the plates are made with o iraa H i ! . H i ’ . . ' . H i B ' ’ ' i ! ) i i ‘ 1 ] 1] 1 i ' i . 1] ] ‘ H i § ] ' [ i ‘ 1 1] H ‘ ] 3 ] H § ‘ : ) ¢ E ' ‘ 1 1 ' : ‘ H . . 1 ’ e . . . 4 ‘ : ' i i ' . ¥ . ' . . i ‘ ‘ H ‘