Evening Star Newspaper, November 24, 1929, Page 55

Demand for Pumps and Oxfords Greatly In- creased by Desire to Lengthen Line of Foot in Front—Extremely High Heels Affected by Radical Change in Fashions—More Formal Bags Are of Suede or Antelope. BY HELEN DRYDEN. UR shoes have been simplified 80 that they may not detract from the intricacy or elabora- tion of our new clothes. Instead of contrasts of color, narrow pi) and strippings have been ad: to give variety, and these have been used sparingly. Interest has been centered on materials. Two, three and even four may be combined, but all in one color. Dun.nd for pumps and oxfords has been greatly increased by the desire to lengthen the line of the foot in front. hmfl&hflh heels have been affected radical change in fashions, for they have no place in the picture when women must be gracefully poised in a nl‘unl feminine posture. To over- come the in-curving lines at the back ©of the-figure which -exttemely high heels have uced we should wear heels of moderate height and preferably Jeather heels’ for seal comfort in walk- n-nunm-l ww&:‘mm a all suede, ‘whieh is more formal. * XK % BMGK is outstanding, with brown as second choice, navy blue, green and wine reds following in the order named. Black can be worn with all colors, even the difficult dahlia and burgundy, and the others only when they match or blend with & dominant color in the costume. There is a new .leather coming into favor—horose or m lnther Water-’ snake in bel’e or gray, python and natural lizard in black and beige, and black and white, all are correct. Small tailored bows are the favored trimming. The newest place for them is at one side of the front. To wear with formal afternoon gowns of velvet or silks, the pump or the one- strap model is first choice, although ‘there are smart oxfords in moire. Moire crepe de chine as for cvmlnl slippers. y be dyéd to match the wn or contrast with it, blending with osiery or fan, chiffon handkerchief or flowers. Sometimes they are discreetly trimmed with the gold or silver. Trimming of evening slippers is usually placed at the front, for skirts are 50 long at the back that only front ‘| with the trimming of shoes is E‘hinly visible. There is an exception the jeweled heels which, when worn, are the only suggestion of decoration. To match net frocks, which are so much in the vogue this year, there are slippers of coarse net, painted in flower designs. Socks of wool and angora and wool mesh’ stockings in color ecmuntuom to match tweeds are worn with ;mn ;port.s shoes. mOx'ty—he'l':le. dlrk:;l\- ng from grege to gunmetal, are the stockings chosen_for street and day- time costumes. For more formal en- sembles clocks are gaining in favor. A light gunmetal, the complexion tones and & new plum mauve are the favorite shades for the evening. * ok kX BAGS are matched to the shoes in color, sometimes being made of the identical leather. Even tweed bags can' be matched to shoes, although more often they blend with them in color only, or are trimmed with straj of the shoe leather. Of the various and calfskin there is.an endless variety in oolnn ‘with noveley fastenings. ‘The more b- are ol luede or antelope to muh the shoes and here all styles are shown, the frameless, pouch, underarm and _elaborately mounted bags on frames studded with marcasite. Suede bags are sometimes matched to belts and even gloyes. There is.a black suede bag, with slide flsfien- ing and crystal buttori, which' ca matched to gloves and belt Mth lhe same fastening, also an underarm style with three interlacing rings, with a belt fastened in the same way. Chanel’s envelope bag is also found in suede and silk faille and has diagonal stitehing, double lll'lD hlnd]! and swastika ornament in metal. This stitching, which is one of '.he new methods of decoration, is very effective in silver wire on gray suede. The latest afternoon bags from Paris are of imported pattern velve!.s in the conventional flower and geometric de- signs, also in monotone velvets. Most of them are in flat underarm shape with flap and button. Less are of ex?el\llve evening bay metallic cloth or brocades. Others show Beauvais and needlepoint embroidery, while some of the loveliest are those made of seed pearls. There are mesh of pearls combined with coral. A particularly attractive bag to harmonize ewelry is developed in gold metal with a pointed flap embroidered in pearls. (Copyright, 1920.) Same Informality to Be Found in Costume Pieces for Sports and Daytime That Appears in Cut and Fabric—Necklaces and Evening Styles. ‘Today we are not only classifying our clothes, but also our accessories,so that they may harmonize in type as ‘well as in-color. re is the same in- formality in costume jewelry to be worn ‘with sports and day-time costumes that large ring to match the costume jew- elry must not be overlooked. Carnelian, onyx or jade are the stones generally selected, and often they are carved or etched. ' Brooches and shoulder pins can also be linked into the ensemble, we find in the cut and fabric of these | both in design and ¢olor. clothes. To the array of wooden jewelry we have been wearing with our sports clothes there are now added amusing sets in which nuine nutmegs are combined with giit nail heads, yellow, blue or red eyelets, or large, .colored bagu . There are also necklaces of dried beans and colored beads. Vlrlmu pleces designed from leather s good-looking, including o ¥ A!ded neclllee with colorful irom. trnament or flat plaque and bralded len.hn rondelles linking carved bone motifs, Even more pretentious are Jeather balls with appliques of various- colored kid linked with metal rondelles. In metal jewelry we have many de- signs developed on modernistic and tructural lines. To wear with bottle or unter’s green costumes there is an ef- fective necklace of Georgian silver com- bined with Russian malachite, 1In kee) lnx with the vogue for brown, galalith 8 on tortoise shell colorings and is combined with simulated amber. Bome of the newest galalith chokers have & center motif carved in the shape of & 'nnana head, depicting an out- door sport. can be matched to laces 'm‘l.h( lony the 60 are grow ger, - not being considered too evening. When the neck- of moderate length a long shower-like pendant adds the longer line. Most of the new necklaces are worn with the clasp at the side, while some have motifs at either side. For the evening the multi-strand necklaces of small pearls, with large Nec! }ncn 'l long for Tars s and impressive clasps of contrasting | stones and strass, are particularly good | with the extreme decolletage. in the evening the arms glisten and glitter ‘with bracelets and rings of all types. ettes set horizontally &nd verti- ly are popular. ‘The long silhouette calls for extreme- 1y lvn(dnr‘nn{s in ‘me !hol:lel’ or fringed effect of baguettes, pearls, crys- tal and rhinestones to match the brace- dat or necklacs. The of the Child Tantalizing at Dressing Time One mother of young children de- clares that the most tantalizing thing her children do is always to stand just too far off when she is dressing them. If she moves nearer to them, then they shift off an inch or so—just beyond comfortable reach. Then you must stretch and reach in order to get to them—just enough to irritate you. You draw the little shoulders toward you, but as soon as you have taken away your hands to fasten buttons and but- tonholes Bobby or Sally sidles off again. It's awfully easy to say, “You didn't begin right.”” That sort of comment is irritating, and offers no remedy for the annoying habit. But it's true that if you accustom children to standing in a position where they cannot wiggle off they do not miss doing and even though they have to stand en- tire dressing operation is 80 much shortened that the strain of being still can do no harm. One mother started her second child by standing heér on a small stool for dressing as soon as she was old enough to keep her balance in such a ition. Mother herself sat on & low chair beside her with all the clothes at hand. It was then an easy enough matter to’ put on all clothes that need to be stood for within two or three minutes. Of course you should have everything ready so as | not to leave the child standing unnec- essarily long. It is a good plan when children are not bathed in the morning before dress- ing to have them wash hands and face before taking off their night clothes— especially if they do this for themselves and lre apt to splash they do get the water it 't matter, ter. o‘ their clothes ‘Then if | tern. ’ THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. ©, NOVEMBER 24 1920_PART THREE. oes and Bags Match in Color; Must Be Simple to Be Smart TOP ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT—BLACK ANTELOPE BAG MOUNTED ON MARCASITE FRAME STUDDED WITH CHRYSOPRASE; FORMAL AFTER- NOON PUMP OF BLACK CREPE WITH RHINESTONE BUCKLE; COLORED KID BAG STRIPED WITH BLACK OR BROWN; WALKING SHOE YOF BLACK AND GOLD; WITH ROPE HANDLE AND SLIDE CLASP. DE AND KID WITH BUCKLED STRAPS; PEACH-COLORED METALLIC EVENING BAG EMBROIDERED WITH GRAY, SILVER BLACK MOIRE EVENING SLIPPER WITH SILVER AND GOLD TRIM AND RHINESTONE BUCKLE; CALF AND PIN-SEAL BAG BOTTOM ROW, LEFT TO RIGHT—STREET BAG OF CALF AND BOROSE LEATHER FASTENED WITH LEATHER BUTTON; BLACK CALF BAG WITH GALUSHA SHARK INLAY AND MARCASITE AND CHRYSOPRASE CLASP; WHITE CREPE EVENING SLIPPER WITH T-STRAP OF GOLD RIBBON AND RHINES TONE BUTTON; BLACK ANTELOPE BAG WITH WATCH INSET IN MAR- CASITE HINGE CLASP; SATIN OR SUEDE AFTERNOON BAG WITH BAGUETTE MOUNTING. ON THE FIGURE, NECKLACE EMERALDS AND RHINESTONES. AND PE CHRYSOPRASE IN BOMBAY CUT. GENUINE STONES SET IN SILVER; LI LEF You Can Make Scarf To Match New Dress If you want a new neck scarf and don’t want to pay the money to buy a good one ready-made, then make one. The work is interesting, the results are sure to be worth while. To begin with: When you have & new frock made, save some of the material. It it is figured, then buy & length of nllln georgette or crepe de chine and the figured material for trimming blndl at the ends. If the material is plain, use it for the foundation of a scarf and add figured bands, fringe or embroidery for garnishment. If you have no materia] to match any of your frocks, then buy material for a scarf and make it harmonize with | one or more of your frocks. For in-| stance, buy @ length of black crepe de | chine and band it with colored em-¢ broidery that will make it go well with| th.0 or three black frocks you may have on hand; or buy a length of navy blue|” or brown or beige crepe—anything that will go well with most of your clothes— and then decorate it in some wni,' | One way is to band the ends with fig- ured ribbon. Metallic rlbbon will do. Another way is to knot in lengths of colored silk for fringe. Pull the strands | of silk in with a steel crochet hook and then knot them in an interesting pat- A scarf is made froi Ten ot Bt S e ot you ko some. one who lives in a different town, you can buy a length of the material, split it through the center and each have a scarf. Otherwise, you will have to buy the width instead of the length of the scarf, and choose a pattern that looks well running crosswise. Fancy Dress Dance Appeals Many persons never seem to be too old to enjoy “dressing up,” and there are some men who would find a con- Spanish police are inv;sugatlng the mysterious disappearance from the mail { 4oicoc ” where they have a chance to of 33 diamonds worth $15,000, whicn < ar as Capt. yxm. Mahomet, & had been mailed from Cordova, Spain, cfimm laundry man or an organ to the Diamond Club at Antwerp, - inder—as the fancy prompts them. rmm.e remn lfl eedless to say, there are men who Accessories Reign. Each season accessories become more important. Bags, shoes, stockings, jewelry, gloves and handkerchiefs. Of all these, shoes and bags deserve the most attention. So many mistakes can be made. For instance, one simply cannot wear brown walking shoes with an afternoon dress, or on tge other hand carry a black antelope bag intended for formal woar, with a sports ensemble. The wise woman plans her clothes for the season very carefully so that accessories will fit in with a number of costumes. This holds good for both day and evening. It is far more economical to select one color, as, for instance, beige with brown for daytime dresses. Naturally one bag be of much more use in this case than if each dress is of a different color. Blippers for evening may either match the dress or be of contrasting color. A very useful thing to own is a pair of silver brocade or honey- colnud,cre .dde chine, because either of these can be worn with dresses of e shade. wear at all times plain slip-on gloves are best, whether they be heavy onu with tailored clothes or pale suede for afternoon. The latter are now longer tham formerly. HELEN DRYDEN, NDANT WITH STERLING SILVER SETTING CONTAINING LAPIS LAZULI, ONYX, CARNELIAN OR OF FIGURE, BAGUETTE AND MARCASITE SHOULDER PIN SHAPED LIKE FLOWER; NECKLACE OF LE-FINGER RING SET WITH CONESHAPED REAL STONE. RIGHT OF FIGURE, EARRINGS OF RHINESTONE AND BAGUETTES. BELOW FIGURE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, MAHARANEE NECKLACE COMPOSED OF PEARLS AND BEADS IN TWO COLORS; BROOCH OF RHINESTONES AND BAGUETTES; B RACELET WITH CIRCULAR RHINESTONES SET OFF BY RECTANGULAR BAGUETTES; BRACELET SHOWING CIRCULAR AND RECTANGULAR BAGUETTES COMBINED WITH RHINESTONES; RAM'S BORN PIN OF ventional dance tiresome who never renlomnt miss an opportunity to go to costume | 2 8 BY MARY MARSHALL. OR several years stout women have been waiting for the in- evitable return to fashion’s favor of the more definitely outlined figure and fuller skirts, and some of them, convinced that the: luxurious fashions would be favorable to the woman of rotund proportions, even gave up dieting. But the new fashions have come and the stout woman is in as great per- plexity as ever, because these new fash- mmusjunuv.rulydea ed for the stripling as the fi’%fle fashions that have gone by the i skirts seem to be ingenlously designed to display rather than to tundity of and longer skirts only accentuate legs and :tx:‘klu that ought to be slimmer than uureovzr the new mode demands s rebel invariably at the prospect of hav- ing to “dress up.” And if it were not for the ald of some clever sister or wife or chum thess men probably never would go to fancy dress parties at all. Usually it is the men and women with a taste ~!or costume ng, a real lmla:? and acting and admixture of eternal youthful- sgc. who take nost interest in fancy Invitations for fancy dress purues— whether formal or informal—should issued in time to make it possible for '.he guesu to pm themselves with being incon- m lon'nll and persan, it is customary to lndlum thu nature of the puty by tddlnl '.he words “fancy de:"‘ or or. any of rptrlodo“tl tconumes that has been a dy:pgn—-at the lovlf;r left-hand side of the invitation Recently there have been r-nc{ dress dances at which the girls came in cos- tume, but the men did not. This is all right if it is agreed on beforehand, But if & man accepts an invitation to g0 to a costume dance when he is expected to don some fancy costume, he shows his discourtesy by not tak! the trouble to wnr some fancy dress it is only a black doming. To ki Olovelly, .chaolho"’m belnu: all the streets, and, clean to pick up L d be | Usually the joining flender vlln.une. So instead of hav- to rejoice, to take a deep bmth lnfl to !me!. her diet list the stout ‘woman a harder problem than ever to try to convince the. world that she is not actually overwe Mi least normal proportions for whom they are primarily intended, and the woman who is no more than four or five pounds Selection of Powders O 222222222 o Colors and Fabrics of Today Are Favorable to Stout Woman-Silhouette Still Made for Youth, But Larger Woman Can Look Well. Black Is Pre-eminently Smart and Promxses to Be Popular Choice. as set down under or over lnd healtb by life insurant eom experts has reason "Coiofs and fabrics are favorable o ors ai Black se more hced the overplump, and there is no longer the um?uflm to wear beige -that “largest” of all tones save possi- bly light gray. urgewommomndfluamnlvu shades of amlbh dthumnnmnhw tion for them to show their ance with the trend of fashion by ing dahlia. But save for is not a wise choice, It is not. even tone ins hich even -r.mmhmthemnmuma- ties of black. (Copyright, 1929.) Complexions Under Such Circum- stances Becomes a Fine Art—Various Kinds Have Mineral Base—Two and Sometimes Three Shades Used. 'ACE POWDER is more than a su- perficial beauty aid, learn-if you had the opportunit tend a school of the type tha rofessional beauticians. For, in addi- ion to_providing first aid for shiny | th noses, the proper powder for your m- dividual complexion will protect against the flu!t and grime that lurk I.n the atmosphere of the preunt—dly city. A top layer of powder—good gg. is one of the best protections t can be used. To learn what this protection consists of is, part of the job of the beauty operator. You must learn, if u would like to have a sclentific nowledge of beauty culture, the chemi- cal composition of cosmetics in order to gauge your standards of the good lnd bad. y good face powder should be of o tentasd aa evenly mixed. should adhere to the skin perfectly, have some color and also pure perfume. Many powders irritate the skin because of their perfume ingredient. ‘We discover that for the most part the powders sold in this country have 1t | In ‘The best face wderl contain mag- nestum. zinc oxide and zinc stearate. hese ingredients all have & eover- x wder and are uled in powder is inclined to clw In powder blending many shades are employed. Yellow, carmine, and even green for the reddish type of beauty are used. Lavenders also have a place for the shadows in olive skins. are, in fact, some 80 shmn after they have found the blend the; xIth} choice of powder should be oxte that i dry but chemically and agrees with your skin, a u: cream may be applied as a !uunda this case do not use & lotion after applying the cream. There is & powder put up by m chemists which is absorbent. It u dry and devoid of all oil, absorbing the natural oil of the skin and causing it to 'his type a mineral base, such as talcum or kaolin. cling naturally. of powder is best for the o{ly skin. L Kick Ruffles Give Finish ; Which Suits Longer Skirt An attractive way of finishing crepe silk dresses at the hem is by means of & two-inch ruffie of knifeypleated crepe to match the dress. This gives the ad- ditional le h needed to make dresses look up-to-date without giving the awk- ward tlrll.hl. line at the lower edge of the skirt. The material for this “kick™ ruffie is cut about three inches wide, preferably across the material so that the finished ruffles 'will hang on the lengthwise line of the goods. Simply cut across the material, allowing about twice as much for ruffles as the edge of t!lliedskm to which they are to be ap- plied. Join the strips with small seams. eces will be sel- le seam answers these seams to one side—not open fow make a narrow hem—three-eighths of an inch prefer- ably—and stitch this carefully on the machine. Make up the dress with seams closed on the skirt and even off the of the skirt—the length being about two inches less than the desired finished length. In applying the ruffie a good plan is to slip the dress over an ironing board right side out. Now divide the dress into quarters and the ruffies into quar- ters and lay the ruffie on the dress, in' such a way that the right side of the ruffie faces the right side of the dress— with the unflnlshed edges of the ruffle and the dress together. The ruffie will then be on top of the dress with the hemmed edge lying toward the bodice of the dress. Carefully baste the raw edge of the ruffle to the raw edge of the dress, fulling in t.he ruffie just a trifie in order to keep from pulling open the phlflnl ‘When it is basted into posi- e vedges, S0 & NAITOW 8! the pu . tion in this way make a seam where the meet. Now take the board and let the ruffie Pinch down the ruffie and the dress an eighth of an the ruffie, catching at the same the unfinished edg on the wrong si on the sewing m-ehlm uver '.ha basting 1f it is necessary to the skirt, do it on the 'mnz side, pl.l.n. along the owermeotthannn; above the pmud Evening Wraps Te Have Train: In Paris-the feeling now is that thp three-quarter or seven-eighth coat i§ appropriate only for evening. Afters noon coats usually cover the dress e: tirely. But for the luuer ovemu dtz the shorter wrap is one adopts the lenuuonu m' meh fashion—hardly seen as yet in this :ro:mtry—-the evening wrap made with'a For general sportswear the fur-lned tweed coat is rapidly gaini ground over the fur coat, and many of the new fur-lined coats are made wi full enough and with sufficlent over~ when Gne sits on.the EHABAMARA/oF when one on the an open motor car in cold weather: ll! . "C;):'l milk canned h\u}hfllm ars ago was recen found as good as when it © ¥ densary, 5