Evening Star Newspaper, July 14, 1929, Page 47

THE MODERNIST _ SLIPPER SHOWN ABOVE _ COMBINES BLACK LEATHER WITH GRAY AND PURPLE KID. IN THE CEN. TER IS A WHITE KID SLIPPER WITH APPLIQUED BOW OF BLACK KID. BELOW THIS IS A TAN OPENWORK SANDAL WITH BROWN TRIMMING AND AT THE BOTTOM A WHITE CRO- CHETED STRAW SANDAL. BY MARY MARSHALL. HE best made plans of mice and men gang aft aglee, and the most solemnly proclaimed edicts of fashion, as set forth in Spring, are often not worth the aper they are written upon or the reath they have taken to utter, before the Summer season is in full swing. In April and May we were assured that smart women would pay very keen attention to the suitability of the | They would not wear colored shoes in eity streets, nor would they wear actual sports shoes for any- shoes they wore. thing but actual sports wear. The more picturesque sort of shoes would resort different be chosen wear. ‘There only for were several label their various shoes and would never yield to the temptation to wear any pair of shoes for any but its fore- ordained purpose. The principle of the thing is quite right, and there are women who have carried out the plam admirably. Also it may be said that women of good taste as a rule consider the l?propruu- ness of the shoe to the occas; do any of the other details of their en- mbles. But with the coming of warm weath- er many women forgot their earlier re- solves. One of the most interesting bits of information we have received from Paris is that even the best-dressed French women have been inclined re- cently to wear rather informal shoes— informal shoes have appeared with rather formal dresses. ‘The sort of shoes that one would associate with Deauville and country clubs have been seen at the smart tea places in the Bois and in Paris. well defined sorts of shoes and the idea was apparently that women of taste and discrimination would cubbyhole and | ion as they IParis Takes Up Sp Shoes must be smart—but the smart woman adds that they must be com- fortable. Skirts are still a long, long way from the ankle line and even eve- ning skirts that dip down at the back to trall on the ground only serve to bring shoes more in the limelight than ever. And women have learned that it is as difficult to hide the fact that the shoe is uncomfortable as it is that it clashes with the dress in color or that it is shoddy and run-down at the heel. The statement is sometimes made that women's feet are growing larger. Records of shoe dealers and shoemakers can be bromght forth to prove this. Fives are as usual as threes were once, and the tall woman asks for a number seven as nonchalantly as she once would have asked for a five. Actually her feet are no larger in proportion to her height than they ever were—only she has decided to have shoes that are comfortable. Not only because she wants to be comfortable, but because she has learned that even with the most heroic efforts she cannot hide the slight limp or hobble that is inevitable when shoes constrict. A rather old-fashioned friend of mine told me with considerable alarm the other day that her tall 14-year-old niece was wearing six and a half B shoes: She herself still clings tena- ciously, though somewhat painfully, to the four dcuble A of her youth. “The trouble with girls of today is that their feet have been allowed to spread,” she told me. “They go with- out shoes when they are babies, they wear sandals and moccasins when they begin to walk and broad-tced shoes when they are a little older. Mothers | ought to think of the consequences!” | _So I suppose old-fashioned Chinese women argue when they see mcdern | Chinese girls with feet that have not | been bound and broken in babyhood. ! (Copyright, 1829.) Your Baby and Mine BY MYRTLE MEYER ELDRED. ‘The “shower” for the bride and the prospective mother i{s a practice hon- ored by time, but not by me. I have a real horror of even suggesting that a group of one’s best friends be made responsible for half a dozen presents for a new mother, but seemingly few share my viewpoint. = am asked repeatedly to suggest ideas for entertainment, for presents, for in- vitations, and even for food. In defer- ence to these oft-expressed wishes, I'm digging deeply into the recesses of my somewhat blunted social in the endeavor to make things easier for these prospective hostesses. Just a few words of warning: Do be eonsiderate of your guests’ pocketbooks. ‘They may be asked to contribute sev- eral times for the same person. Choose a group of guests sufficiently well known to the guest of honor so that each will be happy to add to her “layet.” Far too often these guests represent women whom the hostess wants to entertain and who in secret fume against the necessity of providing a gift for a com- parative stranger. Talk things over with the prospective guests. They may decide that it would ba more sensible to pool their small sums and buy a gift of larger propor- tions instead of numerous small trifies. Good scales, costing from $10 to 815, would be a welcome gift to any young mother, as would be a good sized por- celain bathtub, several all-wool blankets or soft comforters, or even a bassinet, Af the group were large enough to make this practical. If 1t is decided that each shall bring @ small gift, there are numerous ones which would be gratefully received. If the mother is warned in advance that she is not to provide for the toilet outfit, ehe would be saved the money and effort of gathering it herself. The contents of a well supplied toflet basket would contain (in addition to the basket itself, which might be the fm of several guests) absorbent eotton, alcum powder, soap, & soap container, individual decorated bottles for boric acid, mineral or olive oil, toothpicks Rainy-Day Clothes Smartly Worn Abroad | In France and England, where Sum- mer weather has the reputation of being much more fickle than it is here, and where no one takes a blue morning sky to be any eort of guarantee for & rain- less evening, women are much more in- clined to dress with the thought of showers in mind than are women In this country. In many parts of our own fair land weather conditions are, to say the least, unstable. Our seeming indifference to ble showers may be due to op- ism, or recklessness, or y to the fact that motor cars are mors plen- tiful. The wnmétng m:r nfi':"m‘ showers certal does ne many women e brella :nd & raincoat on type of costume frequently sought lnAmnee or London is the wrt“t'u- especially for “dmlh.fl‘u.l" d.lyld. attractive f beige with ufmfi P dusty shade o ige s open- that fastens with patent sliding mteners. There are narrow buckled teners are opened to reveal an attractive ht tuck-in blouss with a jabot, but th the first patter of rain—gip go the fasteners right up to the chin. The straps on the .are drawn up and is well. ’u'rhen are new English raincoats mmade of wal f satin with the slight fullness at the lower part of the with cotton-wrapped ends, cotton, a bath thermometer, a clinical thermom- eter, packages of assorted safety pins, nicely hemmed squares of soft cheese- cloth for washcloths, soft linen towels of small size, a rubber bath apron for the mother and a felted pad for the bath mat. These objects aren’t expen- sive, and in the aggregate will make a practical and good-looking donation. The utilitarian diaper is no mean The hostess may, if she chooses, uy a bolt of diapering, cut it before- hand. and ask the guests to bring their thimbles and spend the afternoon hem- ming. The honored guest will be saved many veary stitches, and of all gifts the addition of extra diapers will never be a surfeit of blessings, as one can never have too many. In the baby's wardrobe there are many small gaps which a thoughtful hostess can fill. Small garment holders, padded and painted in dainty colors, are | indispensable to a neat wardrobe. Em- broidered bibs, extra sets of organdy ties for the hood, a padded silk lining for the same, pads of scented satin to slip between baby's garments, racks for drying the small shirts and hose so that they remain in their o al sizes until worn out, hose and Bootees, a record book, a good sized calendar, bright balls, rattles and rines—are ali mhupl:filu{‘fl’ inexpensive and worth- ! while g ‘The guests may spend their afternoon making & scrapbook of advice, chosen from good and reliable sources; or they may contribute two or three authorita-"| tive books on child care and psychology of childhood as a valuable nuclei of the mother’s library. Such events are suc- cessful if the hostess knows her hon- ored guest well enough to cater to her “likes” and takes “her contributing guests into her confidence to the extent of avoiding embarrassing repetitions of gifts. Obviously, no member of the prospective mother’'s family should be guilty of giving a shower for her. Gifts must never be forced from unwilling victims by any one who will indirectly benefit by them. sleeves fulled into 3-inch deep rib knitted cuffs made of wool y: has been treated with oil to make them perfectly impervious to rain and damp-’ ness. Umbrellas are always of more fashion interest in France end England than in this country—where so many women cling to the feeling that they are neces- sary evils to be carried as seldom as pos- sible. The newest umbrellas in London are of the long, walking-stick length with a slender ferrule in place of the many well dressed women prefer the shorter type that can be carried by means of & cord or strap on arm or — Color Contrast May Be Smart There is a tendency, recently noted among the well dressed women here and abroad, to get away from the more obvious sort of color blending in ensem- bles. And women noted for the cere they take in aselecting details of dress now deliberately choose to wear & purse or a scarf or some other accessory that strikes a note of contrast to the rest. This comes as a relief after a season when every one seems to have acquired choosing ma the trick of or close- iy blended ‘ 8 clear, hot fire. some hot butter seasoned with pepper, galt and half a teaspoonful of made mustard. As soon as the tomatoes are done dip each piece in this mixture and place upon a hot platter. dished heat what remains of the sea- soning to & THE SUNDAY. STAR, WASHINGTO ort Shoe and Approves Its STRAPPED ARE STILL FAVORED FOR WEAR WITH THE PRINT. ED DAYTIME DRESS. THE OX.- FORD SHOWN IN THE CIRCLE AN KID AND BROWN PATENT LEATHER. ABOVE IS A HIGH-HEELED OXFORD OF KID AND WATERSNAKE WHILE AT THE LEFT OUTSIDE THE CIRCLE IS A GRAY SUEDE PUMP WITH GUNMETAL AND BLACK BUCKLE. WITHIN THE CIRCLE AT THE RIGHT IS SHOWN A SET CONSISTING OF SANDAL AND HANDBAG OF LIZARD AND KID IN SUN. BURN TONE WHILE OUTSIDE THE CIRCLE IS A DARK BLUE KID AND LIZARD STRAP PUMP. Broiled Tomatoes. Belect large, fine tomatoes and do not peel them. Blice them half an inch thick and broil in & wire gridiron over Have ready in a cup ‘When all are boil, pour over them and once. D. C, JULY 14, .1929—PART 3. THE WHITE KID EVENING SANDAL SHOWN ABOVE IS HAND PAINTED TO MATCH THE PRINTED CHIFFON FROCK WITH WHICH IT IS WORN. BELOW IS A TUR. UOISE BLUE CREPE D! HINE PUMP WITH A TUR- QUOISE AND RHINESTONE BUCKLE. i 'ln hint [ X0 | A BROWN AND WHITE CHECKED LINEN TE BELT TO MATCH IS SHOWN AT THE RIGHT WHITE BUCKSKIN SPORT SHO! 1r se at Tea Hour NNIS SHOE WITH AND BELOW IT A E WITH LARGE PERFORATIONS IN THE VAMP. IN THE TENNIS ENSEMBLE SHOWN AT THE LEFT THE RED SOCKS AND WHITE CANVAS SHOES MATCH THE RED AND WHITE DOTTED SILK TIE. m sets the fashion? in your community or group of acquaintances takes precedence in mat- ters of dress? Whose sanction of a new fashion gives it significance in your eyes—makes it something that you your- self will want to wear? What member of your own family group more or less lays down the law regarding the new modes? In Europe generally and in France especially it is the young married wom- an to whom this honor belongs and girls look forward to the early years of married life as a time when they shall have a chance to naogl and exploit the new mode. Before her marriage the conservative French girl would hardly dare to experiment with a new fashion —certainly not to play the role of fash- ion interpreter to the other women of the family. Recently Jean Charles Worth, the French designer, explained this French point of view. “Prior to her marriage, the youn; 1 is advised and sometimes Testrain her selection of frocks by her mother or an older relative. ¢ ¢ ¢ Once she has married, however, and tasted the first joys of freedom from chaperonage and restraint, she realizes that now she can choose the clothes she most desires and in the pride of her first freedom she chooses more daring models and accepts new ideas more readily than the women of any other In this country “quite the other way around” it is to an ever-increasing ex- tent the unmarried girl who chooses daring models and accepts new ideas, and serves as a sort of priestess of fashion to the rest of the family. The very fact that so many engaged girls here regis vow that they will con- tinue to dress smartly and take an active interest in fashions is proof enough that many young married women do not. Perhaps this is because the Amer- ican girl makes use of attractive clothes usband, while the French girl SPECTATOR SPORTS SHOES ARE COLORFUL AND PICTURESQUE. THE BAG AND PUMP SET AT THE RIGHT IS MADE OF HAND. PAINTED NATURAL STRAW, COMBINED WITH KID OF THE SAME SHADE. JUST BELOW AT THE RIGHT IS AN EMBROIDERED SHANTUNG STRAP SLIPPER AND AT THE LOWER RIGHT.-HAND CORNER A WARM-WEATHER SANDAL OF PALE GREEN KID. AT THE LEFT.-HAND CORNER IS A SMART WHITE LIZARD OXFORD AND ABOVE IT WHITE SUEDE OXFORD WITH PERFORATIONS D BRIGHT GREEN TRIMMINGS. Sachet Is Used in Linen Closets BY BETSY CALLISTER. HE most subtle way of using per- fume is by means of sachet. Sachet really means the little bag in which the sachet pow- der is contained, and fastidious women for hundreds of years have ap- preciated the value of tucking little bags containing sweet scented powder, flower petals or aromatic herbs in be- tween layers of linen or wearing apparsl in chests and bureau drawers. It was part of the regular seasonal routine among old-fashioned housewives to gather and dry lavender blossoms to be made into bags to be used in the linen closet, and linen sheets that did not have about them the clean, subtle aroma of lavender were felt to be less reposeful than those that did. Our grandmothers often felt that actually to use liquid perfume was a trifle r” or at least not eminently refined, but they felt no such hesif about wearing clothes that had taken on a pervasive but delicate perfume from sachet bags and pads. The modern woman, of course, feels no such prejudice against liquid per- fume. She may not choose to use it herself but she knows that women quite as refined in their tastes as she is do use it. Because of the general popularity of liquid perfumes at the present time sachets have been somewhat neglected, but there is still much to be said in their favor. Placed in the case where handkerchiefs are kept they impart a faint perfume, far more agreeable to many persons than could be gained by putting the liquid 3 tly on the handkerchief. Placed in bureau drawers and here and there among dresses and lingerie in the trunk or traveling bag they impart a very subtle sweetness and freshness to all one's belongings. An imj t thing to remember in choosing sachet powder is to sort that “matches” the liquid perfume, as well as the scent of one’s powder, creams and other cosmetics. There has recently been a revival of interest in mixed flower scents. Heliotrope, jasmine, narcissus, violet, mimosa, rose, iris are among the scents that many women of taste are choosing. Frequently, of course, they are not simple as they seem, since in buildin urmexmetmtwullm the scen of the flower in precisely ht way there must often be intricate blending of extracts. For the woman who prefers not to use any of these flower scents sandal- wood sachet or finely powdered sandal- wood may be used for the cachet and pads. Sometimes omis root, pref- erably mingled with a little violet sachet, is the most appropriate of all sachet mixtures. Some women have little sachet bags han here and there from rgpbons in their clothes closets and often these made so that without difi- [4 tg.they may be opened at the top to :’u uv:e sachet replenished from time e. (Comsright, 1020.) THE SKETCH SHOWS VARIOUS ATTRACTIVE SORTS OF SACHET—LAVENDER TO PUT IN LINEN: CLOSETS, PINE NEEDLES IN PILLOWS, SCENTED PADS FOR BUREAU DRAWERS, SCENTED HANGERS FOR OUR FROCKS, AND VARIOUS LITTLE INDIVIDUAL SACHETS OF SILK, Young Girls Set Styles Here of good family, relying more on the diplomacy of her parents in this solemn business of getting a suitable husband, later looks upon smart and becoming clothes as a means of holding his e areater's greater freedom and importance of the American girl in matters of dress has very definitely influenced fashion tendencies in this country, especially within the last decade or so. It has con- tributed to the success always in this country of fashions launched in Paris | that are decidedly youthful and some- times to the failure of fashions that are more distinctly suitable to the more mature woman. It has certainly had much to do with the success here of fashions originated by the French dress- | makers who cater' to the younger ‘woman. |A Very G Ginger Cake Four cups flour, ounce ground ginger, one egg, one cup warm milk, one-fourth pound butter, one teaspoon of baking soda. First rub the butter into the flour, then add sugar and ginger, and stir together. Now slightly warm the sirup and stir that in, then the beaten egg. Lastly, mix the soda in the warm milk, and then beat all together thoroughly well for about five minutes. Stand in hot oven for first quarter of an hour, then finish with moderate heat. Ripe, luscious, flavorsome melons are in season, for which the housewife should be devoutly thankful. ‘The fact that watermelon contains over 92 per cent of water and contains only a little over 6l per cent actual nourishment no longer stands in its way, even in thrifty meal planning, be- causs nowadays we realize that vita- mines and mineral salts—which are contained in liberal amounts in all melons—are as important as mere nu- trients in the diet. The word melon usually indicates one of & number of different fruits— ons, Rocky Ford melons—while water- melon is really in a class by itself. There are & number of ways of serv- ing melons and watermelons in combi- nation with other fruits for desserts, appetizers or for breakfast. A delicious appetizer may be made by mixing two parts cubed or diced chilled watermelon with one part shredded canned or fresh pineapple. Serve it in cocktail glasses with some of the juice of the pineapple added. Anothen delicious *cocktall may be BY AMELIA LEAVITT HILL. If you'd like some pretty and novel fixings for the nursery which will hold the little ones spellbound, here are some which were shown at a model house in & New York store not long ago. The first thing you will need is a few yards of unbleached muslin, enough for curtains, bedcover or whatever u have in mind to give that desired fin- ishing touch. The next is a smaller quantity of calico or cambric in the Fr!vlillnl color of the room. A half- inch band of this will be used to edge draperies bedcover, whatnot. Next make up the articles you desire in the muslin adding the colored ‘border. To go on you will need a table on which to k. You will also need as many pictures of animals as you can easily come by. They need not be elab- orate ones, since you will only need outlines. Often a child’s painting book will give you what you require. They should be about 6 inches high, and a camparatively small number of large animals gives a much better design than many bureau scarf or Did you ever try to peel potatoes with s knife? And you ever try to cut bread knife? Tfi?’m- and patience getting along with knives that are not well adapted to the uses to which they are put. special knives for special puspeses. There should be a bread knile kept spec! for bread cutting, ard this should never be used for any other puf- p:io. ‘There are new bread knives with edges showing wavy outlines which some housewlves prefer to the old saw- tooth knife. 2 | There should be s special meat knite one-half pound | sirup, one-half cup sugar, one-fourth muskmelons, cantaloupes, Casaba mel- | In, every kitchen there should be THE WHITE KID AFTERNOON SANDAL ABOVE HAS A DESIGN AT THE HEEL OF PASTEL. TONED KID. BELOW IS SHOWN A PALE GREEN KID AND WHITE LIZARD SLIPPER WITH TUR- QUOISE BLUE ENAMEL BUCKLE. ?Be Sure to Buy Enough Material “I have 4% yards of material like inclosed sample. How would you sug- gest making 1t up?” That is typical of many, many let- ters that come to us from woman read- ers, who usually add something concern- ing their age, coloring and general pro- portions to make it easier to help solve | their problem. And it is, of course, | always with much pleasure that we give suggestions. As a usual thing it is much more sensible to buy or select the pattern for the dress, and then to buy the mate- rial. In this way you can tell precisely | what sort of material is most adaptable | to the type of pattern selected, and you also can ?et suggestions for the com- | bination of two materials and for trim- ming notes. Some women always seem to feel that they are rather cleverer about laying out the pattern on the material than the experts who write directions for the amount of materials needed in the pa- per patterns. So, just on ;eneul prin- ciples, they buy anywhere from a quar- ter of a yard to a yard less than is in- dicated. This really is & very bad plan, because in the end it often means having to go back and get an extra short length of the material or having to piece the ma- terial in a way that detracts from the smartness of the cress. There is, of course, the chance that there will be a little material left over, but nowadays there are so many wavs of using odds and ends of material that there is really no waste when this cccurs. Small pleces may be used to make a handbag or ap- pliques for a scarf to go with the dress. Or it may be used for appliques or the band of the hat. Lemon_jac;? Cooked With Rice ‘The desired amount of rice should be | measured out and put in saucepan ,‘wl;hucold waler to cover it. Bring i quickly to the boiling point, stirring if necessary. Then drain the rice and rinse in cool water. Now have a ul of boiling water, seasoned with salt and a little lemon juice. Toss the rice into this and let it cook for them 20 to 30 minutes. Strain it and put it in a cloth in a warm place, and let it dry before serving. Ways to Serve Melons | made from two parts diced or cubed cantaloupe of muskmelon with one diced ripe peaches. If you like, you may add s little orange juice or thin shreds of mint. A delicious frozen dessert may be {made by freezing watermelon. To do this, scoop out large spoonfuls of ripe watermelon, put them in an ice cream {freezer, adding a little powdered sugar between layers. Cover securely and freese in ice and salt in the ice cream pail or in the electric or gas refriger- al Do not use too much sugar or | You may have trouble in freezing the | watermelon. It is best when frozen partly, but not quite solid. This will | take about four hours. An English hostess suggests serving melons whole when dessert is to con- sist of a variety of fresh fruit. The melon should be picked with an inch or so of stalk showing if possible, and | you should have, if possible, some leaves of the melon vine. Chill the melon thoroughly, and when ready to_serve place on a plate with four or five of the leaves around the base. When time comes to serve, slice down with a sharp knife and pass with a serving fork. Fixings for Nurseries ‘Magazine {llustrations are s good source of animal pictures to use as out- lines. ‘You ean cut out your animal pictures, outline them in pencil upon the muslin and paint in the parts so indicated with a brush, or you can outline them on cardboard or pasteboard, cut out the figure so as to leave an animal-shaped hole, and use this as a stencil. You will need paints of the colors of the various animals and s small, cheap brush for every color. Now spread a big piece of blotting paper on your table and on this spread a section of the muslin, taking care to have it perfectly smooth. Next outline and paint in the animals or, if you steneil them, hold the stencil firmly where you wish to use it, pressing it down so that no paint can get be- neath it. Apply the paint thro the hole in the stencil with a stabbing motion, using a blunt-tipped brush. en the work is finished, hang up the whole as flat as possible until thor- oughly dry. , Knife for Every Use l with a curved blade and wide at the base, useful for cutting up raw meat. Another large knife, sometimey known as a “slicer,” is usetul in slicing TS aring Lnives should deq pa ives be inclue and one of these should be quite shori to use in hulling berries, trimming rad. ishes and other operations where the udzo{mufleuueduwflluml e, Grapefruit knives of the newest sor{ are curved, as usual, but have s fing saw edge on one or both sides. ‘The fe kit should include a wid broad spatula, useful in icing cakes an: other spreading operations. The old- fashioned steel knife that had to be scoured is a thing of the past, since w steel has become generally ace