Evening Star Newspaper, November 4, 1928, Page 66

THREE TYPES OF THE NEW COAT SLEEVE PHA ARE SHOWN ABOVE. ZED IN EACH. THE FITTED ARMHOLE 1S EM. BY MARY MARSHALL. | UST as a horse dealer looks into | a horse’s mouth to tell his ags | by his teeth, so the student of costume may ignore other details | and accessories in studying any historical costume and examine the | sleeves to learn the period to which it | belongs. Even in periods like the present, | when sleeves are comparatively simple | and when fashion looks to other parts of the costume fo carry the burden of the trimming—still there is a de- finable something about the sleeves that tells. the vintage of the frock. What then is the vintage mark of the sleeves of the Autumn of 19282 Perhaps the most important fact of all is that sleeves do not seem to be important. You discuss your plans for a new frock with your dressmaker— you talk of the neckline, the skirtline, | the waistline, but it is only as an after- thought that you mention the cut of | the armhole or the shape of the sleeves. | ‘The er knows that this is im- | portant, but realizes that you are not enough of an expert to know how im- rtant she keeps these matters in herl eart and ponders on them when she | constructs the frock. | goods store she bought a set of Farnllel There are certain facts, however, con- | Dars which she had put up in this cerning the season sleeves that are | bare room. Before long her class of worth considering. The importance of | children. increased until there were 10, the new mousquetaire sleeves is one of | 50 that she was .able to make 65 for these. These sleeves are made straight | three hours’ work on Saturday morn- and scant—and two or three inches | ing. Ilonger than would be necessary if they Then she started a reduction class ‘were to extend straight from shoulder | for five or six women—all friends— to wrist. Prom elbow to wrist they| who found it more amu sing to take ere fitted just closely enough so that | their reducing exercises in company ‘when worn they ripple slightly and ex- | than in solitude. They met two morn- tend down upon the wrist in a way|ings a week for half an hcur—and that is always flattering to the hands. | paid 50 cents a week, which n.eant only This type of sleeve is especially attrac- | $3—still $3 for a total of one hour's tive in chiffon and brocaded velvet and | work. In the half hour periods the in light-weight metal brocade. A wide | members of the class were given spe- Jeweled bracelet may be worn about | cial instructions in the reduction exer- the edge of one of these sleeves in the | cises which were prescribed for home guise of a close-fitting cuff. use. By means of scales the members Bear in mind that shoulder lines are | had a chance to see precisely what, if narrow and usually very . * In| anything, they had lost during the coats and jackets this effect is cleverly | week. produced without the slightest feeling| Later this amateur physical culturist of constraint or the effect of very close | became known and was engaged by ftting. | better-to-do women to com: and give Sleeveless evening gowns are made | Private instructions in reducing exer- with straps well up over the shoulders | Cises at their homes. And now between and to keep them in the snug but easy | children’s classes, reduction work and position that fashion demands, bodices | SPecial corrective work with children, must be fitted with care beneath the | for Which one of the local doctors hes arms and cut down an inch or two at | Arranged, she is making rather more Jeast -below the arm. | than she would be making teaching o school, and is doing it withon® ever he Daice. woU showder scam, with | PAVInE [0 leave her_ownhome *for conventional stralght-around _shoulder | MiOT¢ than two or three hours at a seams or with the sleeve tapering up- % » ‘ward at the shoulder to the neck to To do something of the sort I think dzfine even more clearly the silhouette | all the personal qualification you weuld of the shoulder. h:vte m(ha;'e h\'uuld ‘l;e an mte{cx;: in | that sort of thing. You do not have caslly, s ey S aelY, DUt | 1o have a certificate from & school of clally borne in mind by the woman | SYmnastics. although that might who buys her frocks ready made. | NeIPful. If you buy one or two books Nothing can so quickly rob & frock of | 00 the subject of personal hygiene and that “dressmaker effect” so desirable | d€velopment you can probably get from this season as sleeves that droop at the | it Much of the information you will need. rom the body Under the arm. Oniy' | S0me money spent on parallel bare simple alteration is needed to bring | sleeves into the line of smart snugnoss | at the shoulder. Fullness and trimming, when present. seem always to be placed below the el- bow. There are sleeves of thinner fab- | mh&?gn‘g ::lt:t‘lih:l:::mbetl*t‘)sls}llg:ldc?:‘phvslcal culture for children. There will probably be some children more in bow that is gathered slightly into a| i narrow, close cuff. | need of such guidance than others. Lace or fine lin-| “ngtructions in various sorts of out- Serle cuffs 2dd to the tone of elegance | yoor sports usually. proves profitable | S0 desirable on afternoon frocks. and | though’ seasonal, If you live where | narrow cuffs of starched linen or piqu> there is ice in Winter you mnight give ?})‘fd i "":‘t‘;‘ of e “‘g' skating lessons to young people. One 8 b‘m"d g e sports or tailored | young woman floods her own back yard, e red | lets it freeze and then converts it into Below the elbow, elaboration and ex- | a private rink, where she feaches the tension become more striking in the | vounger generation their first lessons sleeves of fur-trimmed coats. Some- | in skating. | times there is a wide, full band of fur| Of course, to take up this woik suc- | extending from the wrist almost to the | cessfully a wpman would scill have to closely-fitting elbow, sometimes this fur | pe voung enough to be physically quite | trimming extends from the elbow to | active. And as an advertisement of | Within four or five inches of the wrist. | what she has to offer she shonld look Afternoon and evening wraps of fur or | If you are intercsted in physic: ture perhaps you can make mo a most enjoyable way as a director of home physical training. One woman who has built up a rather nice little business of this sort began with a Saturday morning class for school children. She started it when school started two Autumns ago and induced five or six mothers to let her have their children from 9 until 12, charging 50 cents for th> morning for each child. In thai time she super- vised their cutdoor games to begin with and then as the weather grew colder and unsettied she took them indoors to a large, bare room ir. her house where, with windows opened and enough heat to take off the chill, the children went through various drills and games. The first equipment she bought was might be necessar; | prise develops. I | your neighborhood wheére there are no as your little enter- 10 get a list of all the parents and then to interview them relative to vour Woman at Home Can Have Class in Mild Gymnastics be | and other small gymnastic equipment | gymnasiums you might find it useful | that it provides a most healthful sor usually be not require any special flair for busi t of work, that the hours for it can arranged so as to leave time for housework and that it does ness, since there is no buying and sell- ing connected with it. to hope to make a living at it. Moreover—and this, I think, is important—this work stands waiting to be done in every community. There are music teachers galore and so it is hard for a newhone There are art teachers, too, and girls who can so plentiful that they anything at all to do. But there are very | physical training teachers—and yel physical culture class. Giblét Gravy-Is the liver, and, if desired, chop the giz- |zard, heart and meat from the neck. pan, and put water in which the giblets were boiled, and put on to boil. Put three or four absorb all the fat. add the giblet liquid gradually, and stir till it thickens. Season with salt and pepper. | THE DAILY HOROSCOPE Monday, November 5. | tomorrow, according to astrology, which [ finds the planetary government promis- ing for good political rule. The partial eclipse of the sun which is an increase in the number of divorces. This eclipse will | Russia, a London astrologer prophesies. |and will bring changes that will be | beneficial. tutor in school subjects are this year are lucky to Lave few of (hese t | conceivably thousands of mothers who would allow 50 cents a week at least to know that their boy or girl was a 2 number of wands so that there might | TIEMDer of some sort of gymnasium of be wand drills, then from a sporting | Good With Turkey | Put the giblets on to boil in one | quart of water and boil till tender and the water is reduced to one pint. Mash Pour off the clear fat from the dripping the settlings into a saucepan, rinse out the pan with the and pour this water into the saucepan tablespoons of the fat into a small {rying pan, add enough dry flour to and when brown Mercury in benefic aspect will rule takes place the 12th of this month falls with the planet Saturn angular and in power, a fact that is supposed to presage misfortunes for women, chief of which especially affect | Persistently the foreign seers prognos- | | ticate battles and bloodshed for Euroj and the Orient. | subject to a direction of the stars that | shocks. Education will now come under the | scrutiny of world experts, it is foretold, and the United States will offer a wide field for the introduction of advanced ideas. After long interest in personalities | and small details of their careers the world is to see life in its largest rela- tions, the seers foretell, and for this reason progress will be much accelerated. Growth of aviation will tend to estab- lish the habit of looking on broad ex- panses of cxperience as well as of land, astrologers explain. Persons whose birth date it is probably will have changes of importance in the coming year. New friendships and much happiness are indicated. Children born on this day may become great travelers. Many subjects of Scorpio have an extraordinary sense of time. | healthy and be neither too fat nor velvet sometimes show sleeves that flare | tor {hin slightly from shoulder to wrist and are | The advantages of left cuffless. Tailored jackets and | sports frocks usually have straight, un- | trimmed sleeves and the cuff, when present, is decidedly narrow. (Copyright, -1928.) such work are’ The MAY A SPECIAL In Al the From 6:00 P. M. Until Midnight CONTINU S TURNS BY PRIVATE WIRE WILL RECEIVED OUT THE >} A 3 Beauty That Attracts WILL BE FURNISHED'TO DIN} i - EVERY TABLE AS FAS -—s0_enchanting and allur- e 3 ing it commands the admir- ation of all. You can possess this soft, fascinating appearance instantly thru Gouraup's ORIENTAL CREAM Madé in White - Flesh - Rachel Kend 1e. for Trial Size Ford. T. Hop! & Son, New York Dinner 6 32 FLOWLR NIGHT SERVICE TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 6 A la Carte Serv For Reservations Call Decatur 1000 (Copyright. 1928.) nnounces ELECTION Dining Rooms to 127 They are often intense in nature and | | for this reason likely to be jealous. pe | Idaho and Nevada are supposed to be | there are scl»ols in | presages severe storms and even seismic | | | 4 | advantage in having coffee’ three meals ment and energy to maintain strength serve force. after the midday meal it is important to have it not too heavy. There should be a less set for the other t: The sandwiches to supply a little green, or HERE ARE INTERESTING SLEEVES FROM FROCKS AND COATS THAT SHOW HOW EFFECTIVELY TRIMMING CAN BE USED BE- LOW THE ELBOW. Three Meals for Each Day Should Be Well Balanced Breakfast, luncheon and dinner—each the piece de resistance may be a salad. of these three meals fills a different | In this week's menus salads are used role, and each satisfies a different de- | in this way for four luncheons out of mand. In making plans for our meals | the seven. A substantial starch and we should have a distinct idea of what | protein dish, such as macaroni au gratin these needs really are—what they are |or baked beans, may be used with snme‘ generally, and for your own family in | sort of fruit to follow. particular, “llllth some persons dir;ner is ;‘he :nly | fe 2 . | really substantial meal of the day. | P ek T xe ([~ | Breakfast 15 nothing more than light | character. To have the three | yefreshments after the fast of the night, | meals of All precisely the same sort | and juncheon s barely more substantial. | would indeed be monotonous. One dis- One may easily accustom one’s self to two light meals with appetite almost all | reserved for a rather lavish dinner. | With some persons the advantage of dinner at the close of the day is that it may be taken after the business cares of the dey are over and one has leisure really to enjoy a well planned and well cooked meal. Personal tastes differ so much in this regard that often within one small family one will like a fairly hearty breakfast, another will care for a most substantial dinner with very little at other meals and a third will like a fairly substantial breakfast and only a mod- erate dinner. So in planning your menus consider these facts and remember that no one person will probably do honor to all that you have planned, If possible, get every one to eat fruit for breakfast— but remember that cereal is not needed by adults who eat fairly substantial meals later in the day. The chances Wo meals of the day.|are also that there wiil be some mem- ; main dish may consist of ‘a | bers of your family who will not choose nourishing soup, possibly with lettuce | ;h? €gR or egg substitute dish for break- a day 1s not only that there might be a little more coffee than was good for one, but that it would produce deadly monotony. Meat and potatoes, vege- tables, bread and butter, something sweet—and coffee—may do very well for dinner if you don't want to attempt anything more subtle, but it becomes monotonous enough when luncheon is merely a repetition of the same formula and breakfast consists of the same thing —sans the vegetables. If the breakfast is fairly nourishing and dinner comes at the end of the day, luncheon may be regarded as a sort of tide-over — supplying enough 'nourish- and well being without laying up a re- For those who must do mental work formula for luncheon than TWELFTH & F Berberich’S TWELFTH & F —For the woman who is discriminating in her selection of Footwear Authenticity of the foot mode is one of the many features for which HANAN shoes are preferred. Shoe tailoring, a term that Priced truly describes the precision from with which they are fashioned || by hand, is alone responsible $12 75 for the quality that keeps |! . | them well above the averagzs. | to i We invite you to inspect the | exclusive women's display of Hanan shoes ‘a Washington. BerberichS TWELFTH~F STS. $22.50 ] lamps have pure white shades, highly lmueredA Others have white velvet | underseas, to go with an old vase bear- | shades, finely pleated white crepe de chine. | bases of opaque white glass or white go with a rare bowl of Indian orign | pottery. | old prints of houses on parchment. The | sh parchment is cut awa; the windows and d light glows brighter behind these open- ings, giving the effect of a street scene | softest velvet. with lighted houses at night. shades, ver and gold, irregularly placed. | shades. cents, stars or conventionalized scrolls and angled figures, is applied flat on | parchment. mn different colors. parties and dancing are used to deco- rate some of the new some show the quaintest of old prints on it at all, save the tint of the har- | shho:llng ladies and gentlemen of an- monizing color. other age. | o1 Moment Autumn A VELVET EVENING COAT WITH HUGE SHIRRED SLELVES IS SHOWN IN THE CIRCLE, AND BELOW IT ARE SEVERAL OF THE NEW SHOULDER STRAPS FOR EVENING GOWNS, White Velvet Selected For New Lamp Shades Some of the smartest of the new Then there are specially designed | shades—a scene ‘of fishes apd seaweed, | and other shades of soft,|ing a similar decoration; or a parch- | ment shade banded and blocked in | These white shades are on lamp | American Indian design and color to| which has been converted into a lamp. | Chinese brocade is much used for | ades of the daintier sort. It is| y under some of | stretched usually quite smoothly over oors, so that the|the frame, and is then either edged with silk fringe or with a'bias fold of exactly matching the ! brocade in color. Stars are used on many of the new ) Velvet is used in the same way. Chif- Big and little stars, both sil- | fon velvet, mounted over crepe de chine or georgette. The velvet is chosen p- | in the softest, most delicate and beau- in cres- | tiful colors. It is bound daintily but | simply with its own fab-ic. | These shades are often of irregular | The parchrent is stained | and interesting shape. |, The plain parchment shade, simply | bridge | tinted to a color that harmonizes with the room in which it is used, is more and | and more used. There is no decoration Other lamp shades are made with | Metal, too, is used to decorate lam Nickel and brass, Modernistic depictions of shades: This plain parchment shade 4s used ' of Careless Buying May Cause a Lifetime HE satisfaction outstanding features adifference thereisin For homas without elec- tricity, the Mayta, ‘aeailable twith in-puilt gasoline molor, for a Maytag on Phone “530yRss Convince yourself that only a Maytag can give you the ultimate in conveni- ence, and service on washday. There is no cost, no obligation. If it doesn’t sel! itself, don’t keep it. facturer. THE MAYTAG COMPANY, Newton, Iowa Founded 1393 Permanent Philadelphia Factory #51-3-North Broad St.. Philadelphia. Pennsylvania soon be smothered by disappointment in the article purchased. Long after the price is forgotten, Maytag perfection, its life-lasting qualities, and its outstanding advantages will continue to be a joy and an economy. choice of a million housewives. KDKA,_Pittsbu P21 WCCO, Franeisco. Tues.. Lo in some of the modernistic rooms. These rooms also show many glass- shaded lamps—opaque glass that soft- | ens and diffuses the light. Hot Egg Sandwich. Add to three cupfuls of white sauce four hard-cooked eggs cut in slices. Dut four slices of toast on serving plates, cover with the creamed eggs, top with slices of toast and pour on the remaining egg sauce. Garnish each sandwich with two strips of crisp bacon and with parsley or watercress. . PAPERING or PAINTING Insure Yourself With > Skill > Integrity »»—>Respenzibility »»=>Low Cost By BREEN Phone Franklin 4510 of a tempting price may It will pay you to carefully test and compare the Maytag before you decide against the many which have made it the Find out what the Maytag cast-aluminum tub, the gyrafoam action, the Roller Water Re- mover and a score of other advantages. Maytag world leadership is not a happen- stance. It is the result of experienced manufac- turing in tremendous quantities—advantages that are made available only by the vast re- sources of the world’s largest washer manu- Maytag Radio Programs Wed., rgh. Tues. M Fri’, weeo. d.. 7:00 P.M 7:00 P.M. Thurs.. Sa e. Mon.. 9:00 P.M Tues.. Salt Lak Thurs. Bowrs durignated are Staudord Time ot the ation nomed. Branch, Mavtaz Building— PHONE ONE OF THE AUTHORIZED DEALERS LISTED BELOW: WASHINGTCN, D. C., Washington Maytag Store, 805 12th St. Robinson Baker, 917 11*a WEST VIRGINIA Martinsburg—Valley Maytag Co. MARYLAND Cuimberland—Jos. Frederick—L. B. Gresham—L. Leonardtown—Leonardtown Imp. Co. Sliver Spring—8213 Ga. Ave., Mgr., Allan D. Luts, N.W. Franklin 7517