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v Traveler Meets Visitor to Land in Turmoil Finds Stranger Is View When He Crosses and the Former Montenegro——Ascend- ing Black Mountain in the Region of Continuing Conflicts—The Penalty of Using the Italian Language —When Greek Meets Turk—A Critical Mistake of Identity—T]’xe “Bessa" of a Chieftain. A visit to the ancient city o Sav in southern Arabia, which &till had the mystery, if not the glory. that belonzed to it when the Queen of Sheba held her court upon its mountains, and the expe- riences of being held prisoner by the Turks, were described last week in the of two articles taken the record of the late Aubrey This voung Englishman 13, after a brief but full areer of tr . adventure and dip- lomatic influence. He was regard ed as an authority on Eastern af- fairs, and an announcement th he was to speak always filled the benches of the House of Commons. rother of the late Earl of rvon, discov of the tomb ' Aubrey of the the min fourth e: istries of Lord Di and who was also Lord of Ireland. BY AUBREY HERBERT. HE ans have always been and s ate lcvel of their soil their rocks, and the system of their life was built up on them. It was a rough system, but it suited the pes ple: every man was his own efficie policeman. and vengeance their recognized le. Wha Jurope vengeance, they the point of view tries. Albania wa the meaner cri chro western Europe were rare. There was much to be sa Albanian code. If there were no railways. the chiv- al of the Middle Ages continued to exist; if men died a violent death by side, th was no petty lar uth. courage and fidelity were the qualities that this people cul tivated and esteemed. and this_fa was recoznized all over the Near Fas: When I made my first journey to Albania. T left for Montenegro in the Summer. We found that 106 Cook's tourists had preceded us. urged. I suppose, by the same desire as myself to see the Prince of Montenegro distributing even-handed justice under an oak tree. It is perhaps worth while saving that even-handed justice and oak trees are equally scarce in Montenegro. We took the last remaining ba rouche at iro at a profiteer’'s price. and climbed the great mountain up the finely engineered zigzags. As the road grew hlgher and higher and the sun set upon the Adrlatic, the filigree of the twisting river of the Rocche di Cattaro glowed crimson between pur- ple shadows. while the great heights of Lovchen frowned above the bril- liant tracery of light. At Cettinje 1 found Charles des Graz. our Montenegro, then on old friend. saving that he could not consent to my crossing the frontier Into Albania. I went to the Bank of Montenegro with my Italian and tried to change a check for £10. This ove strained the credit of the Bank Montenegro. T passed a_couple of days before re- turning to the bank. The rumor of sire for £10 had spread through , and a part of the population with revolvers and knives with intelligent_interest the changing of so large a check I hired a mule for my typewriter and two woman guides to travel to Rijeka. The tall landlord of the inn at Cettinje, proud of his monopoly, offered little help. He said the Eng- lish wer strong race: Rjeka was 8 or 9 miles and, if T choose, I was eble to carry my own luggage. I passed Montenegrins was would called justice. of civilized a lawiess land < that smirch the police courts laheled From conn hut the of ave the letter from minister in leave. and an “THREE RIFLE BARRELS WERE SHOVED INTO THE CARRIAGE AND POINTED AT US." ed With Suspicion Borders of Albania | the gossip of the Balkans was of hate. In London it would not be constdered etiquette immediately after an Intro- duction to inquire, “With whom are vou in love™ And in Scutari, in those days, it would have been as rude to ask, “With whom are you in hate?" But the information came even moner. Hate and fear are less easily hidden than love. One was quickly posted in the affairs of one's friends or ac quaintances. A few days after my arrival the bazaar at Scutari was filled with a report of a revolution in Montenegro: it was early in the morning when the inews reached me. 1 seized my hat. {my razor and my revolver. and was | just in_time to catch the boat for the | Bluck Mountain | 1 made friends with an Albanian on the boat. and he and two countrymen of his (also merchants) and I took a carringe from Rjeka to Podgoritza, which wae sald to be the storm-center. | The night was black: rain fell in | sheete: we were cold and hungry. We | climbed on and up through the night | Every now and then a flash of light ning showed a wilderneas of black rocks and ravines. It looked as if all the stones of the world had been col- lected In one revolting heap. My companions were nervous and | anxious. We began to descend, and ahead of us the lights of Podgoritza twinkled through the rain. Suddenly, the carriage was surrounded by men with lanterns. carrying rifies. 1 thought they were brigands, and as we were all armed 1 suggested to the Alhanians that we should put up a fizht. They implored me, for the love of God, to do nothing. In a moment two or thres rifis barrels were shoved into the carriage and pointed at us. An explanation was demanded of us. The Albanian merchant, it turned out, was known to the captain of the patrol. and we were allowed to go into the town. There 1 dropped the Albanians and drove to the inn. It was locked. I hanged at the door. A patrol came up and spoke to me in Montenegrin, in which language I could not reply. The door was opened: I was let in, and asked for food in Itallan. Lanterns were held to my face, while loud and angry conversation went on round me. My temper rose, and T spoke with some acerbity upon the manners of Montenégro. A tall Montenegrin, who had some authority, came forward and sald he did not be: lieve a word of my story: 1 was an Ttallan bent on mischief. or why had 1 come to Podgoritza t night? To this the only reply that 1 could find was that I was an Englishman, and why, if I was ever going to come to Podgoritza, should I not come that night? At last a plate of goat's cheese was put before me and something to drink. T was then taken up to a room. three or four armed men tramping behind me, and my door was locked. PR N* the XT morning 1 shouted and banged upon door. 1 was finally released by a surly Montenegrin. I went downstairs, where T found myself alone with the host. who seemed a very decent man and talked some Italian and Turkish. He told me that two dave before. the Italian Tobacco Monopoly at Antivari had been blown sky-high by Montene- | &rin patriots. The land was in a tur- moll: reprisals from Itallan agents were suspected evervwhere Last night, a tew hou coming, a prominent bairakdar (standard-bearer), had been summoned to the presence of the governor. The bairakdar, a man of immense helght and great spirit, had drawn his revolver and killed the chief of police. wounded the governor terribly, and shot another man dead. He himself had heen instantly killed. He was said to be an Italian sym | stamped and before my citizen, a eal Danger in the Regio There was constantly a state of djak blond-faud. which meant occasional ambushes and often a desultory eve- ning’s warfare, when the day’s work was ovep, between two villages. But even when hostilities were acute the women were allowed to pass without molestation. Unfortunately for me, there had re-| cently been serious local trouble. The Turkish government. it was alleged, had robbed a tribe (Ljuma, I think), and this tribe had retaliated, four davs before my departure, by sending down 600 men to hold the passes These people would probably treat & forelgner well. but in their hands he would be half guest. hall asset, stuffed with hospitality but held as a hostage against the Ottoman government. In such circumstances. it was obviously no use asking the Turks for their heip. nor had I time to procure the bessa of the chieftains on the way. On that particul ad. ho s thix was not a pure disadvantage. for men have enemies as well as friends. and there was one clan which wns #ald to take a childish delight in kil ing the guest of their enemy rather than their enemy himself. thus inflict- ing an indelible stain on his honor. After drinking a final coffee in the gar- den outside my hotel. with my friends —a Turk, an Egyptian, two Greeks and an Albanian—I started next morn ing an hour after dawn. P T was an intoxicating day between Spring and Summer. and the fres neas of the dawn was so delicions that one felt unreasonably it must survive the heat of noon. I arrived at the bridge with my four horses. one for myself, one for the luggage. the third for my kiraji or hired man and the last for my Albanian servant. Here the first dificulty presented itself. Luckily there was only one man at that early hour in charge of the bridge. and he was a récruit. He demanded my vol teskere (road permit) in very pathizer, and the fact that I had ar. broken Turkish: 1 equivocated. My on the way who talked Italial some who had been in ed a broken Eng- d smoked clgarettes. was cur r their blood- frontier warfare tarnslated into childish language. The Turk was their enemy, then the Al- banian. They were just Leginning to emerge from the state of superb tribes whose glory had been their fortitude in the face of overwhelmlng odds, and whose romance centered round the rocks of their black mountain. ok k% J took the ferry buat to Scutari, where I proposed to wait for the eomin< of my Albanian servant, R It was an_interesting and a stormy fourney, with sudden winds and filghts of spr: The great forest of slender tree-stems, tall reeds bowed before the gusts Scutari is of the East, but different from other towns in the East. Its spirit—for every Orlental town has a spirit—ls rather reckless than fatalist. The Turks are in the habit of defend- ing the honor of the women by high walls, but the height and strength of the walls of Scutari are no reflection upon the morality of its women. Men £ their houses purely for their own defense. The small-talk of Europe is-of love, lish It stained and bulrushes | rived immediate]y after the murder.l talking better Itallan than the | ordinary Montenegrin, had put me; under suspicion. The sooner I left the better. | | "When we left Podgoritza we wound | {up and down those precipitous roads, where each helght gave a view of the monstrous bleakness of the Black ! Mountain, while the diligence stopped | automatically at every inn for raki.| The dead bairakdar had his adherents, | as had those whom he had killed, and the talk grew more flery and the direction of the horses more uncon- trolled after each halt refresh- ment. We reached Rjeka in the evening. and the following day I re turned (o Scutari. Riza, my Albanian | | servant. had arrived. and I was burn-| | ing with impatience to cross Albania | to meet my brother at Uskub. In those days traveling in Albania was difficult. The ordinary method was to obtain the bessa—that is to say, the word of honor or the protec- |tion of an Albanian chieftain, who made himself responsible for the safety of the traveler through his own district. where the Turkish troops| were unable to penetrate. If mis.| fortune befell the traveler, the chief was in honor bound to exact the adequate penalty from those who had injured the foreigner. > passport, I said, was in my bag upon my horse; T would not open it and T was In haste. At this point a Greek came up and very suitably played chorus. Soldier—O effendi, O my two eyes, give up thy teskere. The merciful gosernment requires this. Praise be to Goa! The Greek—The m ment requires this. Give up the kere, O effendi. Praise be to G Myself—God prosper the merciful government! This law was not for me, nor will I unpack my luggage. Greek—This law was not for thee. Pass, O generous lord. Soldier—O educated sir, O corner of my liver. stay. Thou shalt not pass. The merciful government. . . ." Myself—O dog. eat dirt, but behold that we part in friendship. This shall be a remembrance of me. Drink thy coffee alone that we would have drunk together. Greek and soldier together—We are greatful to thee, O bey. Depart in peace. Smiling may you go, and smil- ing come again! So this obstacle was surmounted. We crossed the Drin in a curious contrivance. Two long and extrémely narrow dugout boats were lashed to- | meadows of rich grass, well i riga‘ed gether, and, carrying my party with ite horses and a youji (wayfarer) who punted across. Then we rode swiftly | into the mountaink. It was my first | sight of that country. beautiful as a | dream. that has in it the hint of a dragon. As the road went heat grew in intensity in &pite of the treex. We climbed a steep path. through luminous oak forests, which tantalized with their suggestion of coolness, and whose underlight is %o like the Impression one gets at the turn of a dive of sunlight seen through the green Mediterranean Finally, we arrived, as the sun set at a hamlet, the second in onr day's| journey, called Chereti. Progress be- | came very slow. Men with rifles met us and paused and hallooed to othey men with rifles. none of whom spoks ‘Turkish We were es rted throvgh up the hills, the with small dikes, to a one-storied house, where the patriarch of a huxe | tamily offered us hospitality. Riza entered upon a voluble conversation | with our host, who gave us the lugu brious news that there were still s.ne hundreds of tribesmen holding pass ahead of us our host, had deposited his rifie at| the door and thoughtlessly walked | some yards from it. He took it up again Instantly and went to.draw | water from a well 50 yards AwAay | * ok x % | AH in Arabia. so in Albania, one feels a certaln reluctance to say | good-bye to fertility. hegause fertility | almost equivalent to a guarantee of | curity. Where land is cultivated the | people have a stake and feel respon | sible for their actions; cultivated land | is a hostage for good behavior. At dawn we had a cup of Turkish coffee. Our Christian muleteer. a Malisor, was in the highest spirits and sang in the woodland way, arousing ihe resentment of Riza: When I asked him why he, too, could not he cheer- tul, he answered. angrily: “He is re- sponsible for four horses; I .am re-| sponsible for you. \ “Anyhow, we have the hassi of the | Lord of the horses.” said 1. “Hix bessa id Riza, with a wealth of abuse, “is not worth a tar- thing. Son of a dog. may he eat dirt” After this aminblé exprénsion taciturnity covered him like a cloak. The morning of the day before we had ridden through green meadows, where the hedges may have bheen rc cldental, but the lie of the land wae like Devonshire, until . window in the hedge showed those white moun tains which give the country it name Albania has a great advantage over ther countries: there is waler every Where. 1 remember one waterfall set in rosemary, and the water wns some- times so clear that its ther, i seemed, must have been crystal, not rock 1 left my little pony tree and walked behind it, watching its four clever solidly placed heels tinkling up and down the rocks of the steep path but when 1 wanted ‘o ride and went forward to catch my animal, he kicked me, with accuracy and amazing vigor, between the knee and the thigh. It may have heen because we had had little food, or because of the pain. but this kick made me faint. Riza said: “Where did this heast, God give it trouble, strike you?" and instantly massaged my leg with fury. “Arise.” he said, “walk: if the leg is not broken, all will be weil.”” And so it was. 1 Suggest Instant exercise as a sure remedy to all who suffer the same misfortune. ” As we marched T looked st a view that was grand—stripped of forest and where the mountalns were rugked and naked. I sald to Riza: “Here, at any rate, you need feel no responsi- bility for me. We can see for miles. Talk more cheerfully. Make the wa, pleasant with conversation. If fhére were bad men, could we not see them?" “How can we see’ “Have we telescopes, as they luv Thev have begun to he up-to-date in the Bilkans. A forelzner on & holiday in these count Justice to the people: in those davs they hunted ur were hunted and their lives were gen in immedinte forgets that ke answered. We crawl new scenery. magnificent as any in_Enrope. The country in iteelf was a high adventure. FEvervwheré gorges flung water headlong into valleys, and so clear was the nir-that the farthest boundaries were as clean-cut as the impressions on a coin. Though we were not riding on dizzy heights the path was dangerous: often for 50 vards at a time it was only a foot or eighteen inches hroad, and sometimes frayed on the turn of a corner for a few inches into invisibility. It was impossible to dismeunt, and one could only watch the stones fall- on which T thought a# T had ever seen This code of honor was very strict. had joined us for protection, wg‘ allling from the path down to where “IT APPEARED IMPOSSIBLE FOR HORSES TO KEEP THEIR FOOTING UPON WHAT WAS ONLY A SCRATCH ON THE PRECI PICE.” 100 feet responsibi was sung in a wav t one’s shadow lay 60 or low. 1 left the entire to my horse. Once it a Ay, and it pranced made me tremble. but 1 did not touch 1926—PART 5. the reins. It was a fearful jov to 100k ahead and mark the cliff we were to climb, whe-e the track seemed to have had as much purchase on the tace of the mountain as the shadow of a rope. It appeared impossible for horses to keep their footing upon what was only a scratch upen precipic Rut they did so. We passed few men. Riza could not bear my being even a small distance ahead Once. passing from a cavern in the mountain to a valley filled with the gound of rivers, the muleteer and I were attacked by #n enormous sheep- dog. and defended ourselves with dif- ficulty. Some half-dozen wild Alba- nians, his master's, sat a few vards off with rifies on their knees, watch- ing with unconcern. Constantly we forded clear streams with stones like garnets in them. That night we came to a place ap- propriate to my condition—Sakati, which means “lame.” That night in my hut was intolerable. A man tried to break in and mice never ceased | from reveling. At dawn we started off at a gres My attendants were most nervous at that early hour, fearing that our arrival overnight had been observed. * ¥ X % W 5 left behind the chestnuts, hazel, sycamore and the almonds in bloom that had marked the wayv the day before, and traveled now through planes and oaks. At time)—that is, noon—we struck the | Drin again; it was in a turbulent mond. The path was so fragile t it looked as if the wind might blow it away. |1 was riding in ecaravan when th the r r. 1 went along it like Agag knowing that at any moment m | horse and I might sound the depths lof that fierce, muddy river. Finally lwo had to turn and retrace ou It was with the utmost difcul that we rveturned. We rode on through a dark forest until we came out into the sunlight, to the first of three fine bridges—fne, that Is, for the country They are, it i8 true, impa: ble as far am carringes are concerned, but as front of our little them this does not very much matter. The first, 1 was told, was buiit & ( hundred yvears ago. ' we met two cavalrymen and eight in | fantrymen the only sign of T h oc- cupation in all our march The Turks followed their usual cus tom: their saluations were very friend Iy Rut I was not sure if they were Yo meet a guest or a prisaner 1 called a halt We sat, smoked and | arank water together, and 1 learnad | what had happened. A telegiam had bheen sent Scutari =said | Turks, about an F pnelishman for | whom their henevalent government |cared greatly He must therefore bhe | met at the first possible point and eherished hy the asker (soldiers) We lay under a ereat hox hedge which gave ns shade while we talked The sergeant of th suwari ry) overwhelmed me with congratulation: He: “The last who came through from be. | lity by hat & (Turkish | path descended to | {here are ho roads on either side of | At the first bridge | was not as your excellency. He came in the tinte of peace and not through troubles, with a great escort for pro- tection, and myself, hut oh! woe, God give them trouble, ragged men shot at him, not for tniquity but for ai- verison, from the mountain, and his hat was plerced by a bullet. He was a lord of Magarysan (Hungary) I: ““Alas for the lord of Margary- stan!" The sun was very hot upon the mountain, and gray and green lizards scudded through the dust in front of the horse’s hoofs to sbeiter under the thyme. After a climb we arrived at the third and last brfdge, below Mount Luml, whose appearance is as menacing as its reputation is grim. On it the snow had turned to icicles, and these were still riveted to fits sides, I heard afterward that within an hour and a half of our departure the bridge was in the hands of the Al banians. The road through the forest was what the Turks call chosses (chausse), which sometimes means a Way upon which It is not possible to travel; but they speak of it in hushed, respect- ful voices. We traveled quickly along through the twilight of the trees that opened out in glade 4fter glade, while the river sang and flashed through the shadows of the forest. * X ¥ % JFINALLY we came out on to an open hillside covéred with heather, and found one shepherd, asieen among wild hyacinth in the shadow of an | ilex, with his gun for a pillow, while his ‘companion piaved upon the flute of Pan. In the distance, perhaps half an_hour away we could see the White Drin, just before its junction with the Black Drin. I said good-bye with reluctance to the avenues of the forest, emerged on to the plain of Pr Our suwaris were good fellowa and we rode at ease ahead of the baggage animals. The peasants whom we met far as we could tell, unarmed, though the suwaris said they carried weapons secretly. I had often heard Albanian oldiers in other lands prafsing Pris rend, vearning through the heat of desert nights for its coolness. When w the place T understood their on. Like all highlanders, they for their mountains, and much | of the trouble which they used to give the authorities was the result of this | homexickness. In the desert the Al bhanian hears the sound of pigeons’ flight and the murmur of streams he sees the shimmer of mosques be. | fore dusk and he feels the cool air of ! Prisrend or Kalkandilen in the ev the | ant had e journey was lixurious. R itrived to ob- {tain a carriage | " Sit heside me. | discourse | “Not 0, my soul. Te it through me that dishonor shall come to vou?" he \nswered. and took his place upon the narrow seat opposite, a very hand- lsome ruffian from the waist upward, T d, “and we will n of Balkan Blood Feuds but lacking the slow dignity that Turkish trousers confer, since a pres ent of mine, stockings and knicker- hockers, clothed him from the ankims 0 his sash. Our progress through the town was almost royal. In the market, where a trellis of vine gave some shade to the butchers' chops. most of the peopls stood up salaaming, while some en- thusiasts called down hlessings upon us. I did not understand their mo- tives, but, encouraged by my kavass, I responded oordially. ‘When we came to the outaskirts and the country lay befors us in wive after wave of rolling ground, Riza consented to sit béside me, his g00d temper renewed. “We have passed the mountains and the fastness, whers all men that saw you, effendi, said, ‘Allah, Allah Here ia rest, and freedom from care.’ "' He smoked cigarettes and sang. (Copyright. 1926 Will We Use Vegetable Fuel? OWER from potatoes is Henry Ford's solution for the world's worry about fuel in the future. We can grow our fuel, he said in & recent interview, and convert it into electric energy to heat our cities. Sawdust, apples, weeds—every bit of veg: ble matter that can be fer mented contains potential fual, says Popular Sclence. An acre of potatoes in one year will produce enough alen hol to drive the machine: necessary to oultivate the fleld for a hundred years, Ford declares. . Porcelain Traffic Lines. NEW idea for making permanest white lines for use at strest crose. ings and for the direction of motor | traffic is to he tried out soon in Lon were mostly Christians and, as | Popular Sclence Monthly elain studs are inserted in holes drilled in wood paving The studs are {nserted in a lina three abreast, making a strip of white wide enough'to be seen easily. The chief ntage of the porcelain is that it is v weather, oll, or mud, and makes a 1) that cannot be v the constant beat of traffi Divorces Gain. HE number United more and the number of marriages | actually dwindling, the United States (ens In 1923 there were every 74 marriages, but same number of couples got divoreed for every 6% marriages Texas, the higgest State, had the higgest divoree list, and Tlinois and followed after New York had the most mar- riages, and Illinois, Pennsylvania and the of divorces In States has increased rding tc afeorcen 7o) tn 1924 the Ohio Texas were next Cauldwell, Americanr Artist in Paris, Decorates Memorial at Somme-Puy BY STERLING HEILIG. PARIS, January ESLIE CAULDWELL, his fame by furnishing Hotel Rltz, and has long heen | the greatest decorator and nisher in Paris He Is grandson of Andrew cury—the first Sunday paper. As parent was thus ‘“the fathe day journalism, be. obviously Sunday papers. pwn brother to He had already painted a hund|'¢|d ed in v e portraits in Parls whi hread “to put butter on his nishing the Hotel Rilz hy He i1s a purely Parisian portraitist, repre. Austin ace” Paris | | Opera to Lewis Douglas, the Arizona | are notably Sir Henry the French of the and his subjects sentative—from Lee to Chenard. from Vanni-Marcoux copper mine magnate, and from Mile. | the million- granddaughter of Moy, Gihb, to the Barenne Sive de 1 guniere, whose husband i director of the Banque de Paris et des Pays-Bas He keeps up the painting: but big money is in furnishing and deco-| ration He had a spécial ‘alent for it. and discov When she and M. Ritz| came up from Rome to sée how he| was gettng on with furnishing their, new hotel in the Place Véndome thev silk houce where Cauidwell had been choosing m;nw.—’ a lot o Ritz, who still lives, him. Mme. ered” went to the great “We thought we should have : work to do.” said Mme. Ritz. "but find we have only to applaud Two examples. hrass bedsteads (which did when the great styles evolved not ax also for the electric clock ed in the walls. He went even to length of indicating for for each day of the week, cut and potted flowers hest nizing with style, upholstery, hangings, etc. 1t was the first had been done—hotel nished like private house: and prototype for this cla since, in moldings fixtures, all furnitur Immediately the waring & Gillow the post of director branch for furnishing time such rooms it became carpets, ete. great nouse of its P He had his factories. and cerything needed In his depart- L Waring_ & Gillow he, Tamdon, ment. Under did the vast entire. Tater he went on n the furniture and .decoration of Amerlcan Womens Club of after having furnished and deco! the house of its présiden, Connett. whose hushand runs Guaranty Trust Co. 3 He did the Commerce of Paris, brary. in particular decorated the Ridgway: George Munroe, at Pa turnished and Paris housee of William Mrse. Francis Drake ( and_furni Charl carlton Hotel, whose is famou! Chantilly decorated Rrevoort Westinghe Murs . Swift. All of Puy, bloodiest v 24 Division. Somme-Puy started the drive of Allies 6 miles from Rheims to Argonne. In three davs it cost as many 2d Division lives ne did > 25, Amer. ican painter of Paric, added te Cauld- well, who built the first house in Mor- risania, now the twenty-third ward o the | New York, and ®mon of Senator Wil 1 asked for Water. [{ja;m Cauldwell, who was founder, pro- | In the excitement of talking. Bairam. | piieior and editor of the Sunday Mer of Sun- his =on l.eslie must As they desired many exist ), Canld- well made models for them in all styles fnerus- | each room. | lists harmo wal tning: those of a gentleman’s, sa of hotels ever electric affered Cauldwel and decoration. Vi em a number of years. He wag with the g b Mrs. A might have day mme-Pus ition to The Amer for the Beaux-Au suburh: and ( of interior d bilization. they aculty in w York. Buell guest. and Buell had Leen at § Puy with the French Foreigr jas sub-dieutenant Ruell stirred ov lecture on “rench Bellevue, 1 e After demo. fur- was & hoth by heari L Huilli iwell Somme-P it Lieut. propagandist Harvard mer architects and town planners. had ar spend their vacation out in the French devastated regions. they got sone thet to Somme-¥ 1e its town ha Also A consideral nd raised, very curiously. er \ quiet, by the young puplis of a nun ber of expensive privat whom they and L'Huillier terested. The trip of the 1 vard men | never made. But the fund whic heen contributed toward their ex penses was placed in Buells hands and he decided to use it to pay for the decoration of the Memorial Hail at_Somme-'uy. Buell and L Huillier well to undertake an tiful and important tion of the hail. They man, It is probably the most artistically elegant memorial of the war front the 2d Division is honored in a high decorative art sense Leslie Cauldwell under one small section of a wa entire interior of the hall harmonious. all finished. Around the wall runs the names of celebrated b tha the and fur- had in w .an- L asked ¢ linusualls eme of . asked a k it All not we ttles avound the | ot | fur the | of | Eis own. He chose the | Paris, | the American Chamber vast Pau Villa of Mrs. Henry | the houses of the banker. | and | the | and ! suse | hed the Paris honse this leads us divect to Som of the Amel the | the | half | m-i entire month around Relleau Woods. “Yet who knows anything about Somme-Puy” rick. when he and Gen. attended the unveiling of Leslie Ca asked Ambassador Her- Gourand uld- | well's great mural painting at Somme- s Memorial. watched those hills for said Gen. Gouraud. Pu vears! three “We could never take them. Then those splendid voung Americans through in three da. Nevértheless, except for Cauldwell and Robert Buell Rochester, N. Y. (now United States vice consul at cflcufl), I think Leslie burst LESLIE CAULDWELL'S MURAL of THE SOLDIERS ON ITS EDGE. no an armies had a school ris 1l held its chair had a reunion of the mme- | Legion were 20 to| helping n assigned rebuild was on the schools h had the is frieze with | Somme-Puy, in garlands of oak leaves. Below the frieze are large panels, framed with golden laurels, in which are the names of all the gloriou dead—the French who fell in taking Somme-Puy villag ter which they Stopped, exhausted, and the Ameri- who hed Mont Blanc and other high points, the strongest point of the enemy line between Rheims and the Argonne! In another panel are the names of heads of committees and those who aided, not only in rebuilding Somn Puy, but in susts the devastated | villagers when they sought to return to their destrc homes. Sums ¢ money had to be supplied them, fur niture, clothing and temporary struc- tures L'Huillier, Buell and Canldwell were at one of the American private schools ind happened to mention to the pupi that “they ha itk at Somme- Puy for the children. “They up a girl Right in that sche money was raised, r ance, and the cow W put to functioning for dren! The sch for this articl the memorial not far from vision! Cauldwell's great piece, in this deco- ration, is the mural painting over the chimney place. It represents a Red | Cross nurse. with her arms f daisies, poppies and corn flowers nds in meditation above two gi of a French soldier. one Americ In her . she these men holding .in broth hood of arms Below the mural traordinary thing | out beyond the eans T should have a cow!" spoke 1, the same week, ched over to = hough nd Somme-Puy's s mame was refused me hut it will be found i hall. in jen lanrel hernes the 2d Di one of an nting is an ex- hey found a du vills whose e PAINTING AT SOMME-I'LY. THE CHIMNEY . PIECE WAS TRANSFORMED TO LOOK LIKE THE EN- TRANCE TO A DUGOUT, WITH EVEN THE FINGERPRINTS OF E trance, cut into rising ground, hap pened to he just about the size of the chimney place They transported its main stones to | the na hose of its roof actualis bear finger prints of soldiers, rusted in the hard old dried mud, t ced themselves o descend pery steps! he whole chimney place is a dug For model of h Lestie Cauldwell too Peixot that ed Cross nurse M Ernest ( American ar San Francisco- we AT ed 1 Cros: K wn actually, hehind Semme = R the S, R h ey Wounded ke the a fered vou | days harmonious Iwill see homes as at s Wwor you gave half Belleau W\ Uses of Waste I.umber. ence Mon | cent experiments in Cloquet, Minn ittle town re Tarse hone found value even in b trees—everything in thickness. Mills n ber der th | predi. waste nel ‘ Three new wa utilize wast | worth hat hese kind o | fici The trinmpl e dis pine i other g v soon wi s have 1 formerly i fron 1hle Pt natural v vestry s re 1 for pagier vers from the e ! i ol trees have and paper miil e in Cloquet waul miate Tceboxes verriger cars, and many other purposes When wood fiber is passed through the sereen paper mill, a certair Knotty known rousl enings."” will not go through. T} mass of fiber, when used in the man facture of balsam wool, is put throu sulphite firepronfed | ground It is treated to give i | hesion, and finally is brought out the form of a sheet of light insulati | hoard. P Box factories |way to cut tonzue and grooves 1small hoards, now re turning i many boards of sizes too smal ing in lumher vards, that is 3 inches in width or under, and fron | 12 to 47 inches in length. The hoaris are glued together to make hoxes box factory in Cloguet now is usi 11,000,000 feet of such shorts new five-resist It can he ihstance A& |a process aving discovered 1o use ma Powerful New Gas. | ‘M UFACTURED gas that s suil { to give twice the heat-and ligi alue of any gas now used was ,nounced recently by Col. I, I ‘I‘iflnn. president of & New York {company. It is made by vapo | the heaviest ofls obtainable, in | sludge and tar, in @ column of super heated steam It can b& praduced, it lis claimed, at much lower cost thaw any gas manufactured today. | Rob Safe hy Water. | TNGENIOUS hank of York. into the vault, the contents through the an acetylene tc the safe with wa |anda money fnated the openinz the burglars them. The water was carried to the bank | cans stolen in the village. n milk Gay gus ng uding rahbers Tooted ed 10 miles reaking to reach hole u Toe ' but h | south ur hored the safe Then they A top of Iy h < securitie