Evening Star Newspaper, December 13, 1925, Page 97

BY MARY MARSHALL. ADIES (n India solve the prob- lem of keeping up with the ever-changing fashions in jew- elry by having resident jewel- ers who can change the setting ©f precious stones while one waits. That 1s in every household of preten- ton, it 1s said, there {s a jeweler with enough of a workshop and enough tools to make it possible to make over Jewelry in short order. It must be something of an economy. A few well | eelected gems would be as satisfactory &s & large collection, if every day In | the week they could be worn in differ- ent and new settin The Western woman, it would seem, tries to solve her problem of keeping up with jewelry fashions and of pro- viding the necessary variety in her ornaments by buving imitations. | Late last Summer at Deauville the fashion for imitation welry amount- ed to a veritable ruge—despite the fact that there seemed to be something of @ reaction against pearls that were diamonds that were not and emeralds and rubles produced in a laboratory. And fashionable women—some of them—have kept up with this ex- travagant use of imitation jewelry. The interesting thing about it seems o be that they do not even wish to fool any one into thinking it is real. They wear whole strings of emeral &ny one of which would occupy place of honor in an imperial crown. And they wear three or four strings of tax 1 would jeweled ornaments. shoulder straps. Sometimes these straps consist merely In a verd of diamonds or rhinestones or seme of the popular colored stonen Some- times there is further elabcration. The tront of the strap where ® joins the bodice is made in the forml of an arrow or a circ.e. New types of hair ornarieuts fol- lop in the wake of the new mwwles in hairdressing, and now that every woman shows her ankles without a qualm, the jeweled anklet has be- come a stock in trade with many of the jewelers. Many of these anklets may also be worn as bracelets {f you Now there are | wish. There are very, very long necklaces —necklaces that hang down to the knees in front. In fact, the very new- est idea is to have your skirt and your necklace terminate at exactly the same point. 1f you Iltke, of course you may wear your necklace with the long loop hanging down the back. ting within the “inner circle of the so- called fashionable set’—a feat which she does not consider at all diffic Among other things, she say well dressed, but never too well dressed. Wear small pearls and not large ones. Apparently the thought that any aspirant to social advance- ment might wear Imitation pearls never even entered Miss Marbury's head. Once a woman would have thought that she had sacrificed every claim to smart soclety if she wore any imitation jewelry whatever—and was caught at'it. If you did wear imita. tion pearls at all you wore them smalt mall enough so that people might consider them real. s ©ne would be deluded. could afford real pearls small ones—lest some one might imag- ine for a moment that they were vile imitations. There are some women who ap- parently bave gone back to this idea @nd for awhile there was quite a de- mand for small imitation pearls. The idea was that if they were small enough you might persuade your friends that after all you had inherited or bought a string of real pearls. But the real smart thing now- sdays is to delude nobody. If you found that a piece of green glass in & setting of brass gave just the right touch and lent real distinction to your stume—why, you'd wear it, wouldn't you?—instead of a little ornament of small diamonds in a tiny setting of platinum that didn’t really suit your costume. Sald 4 woman at Deauville last Autumn; “You can buy a string of pearls over a cocktall at a cafe for about 100 francs, and you can invest & similar sum in a monster emerald for a clasp and step at once into the ranks of bejeweled beauty." There are still, however, numerous women who very, very much prefer real jewelry to Imitation, and some few there be who, like their grand- mothers, would sooner wear none if it cannot be real. A good enough rule {n buving jew- elry might be this. If vou merely want (o satisfy a passing fancy—to follow a fad that must be fleeting— then buy imitations—fairly good imi- tatlons, but still imitations. For the more precious sort of jewelry choose pieces of the sort that depend not on conformity to a passing standard but THE SUNDAY STAR. WASHINGTOX, S A BEE IN HER N OT THE SORT OF BEE YOU MIGHT THINK, BUT ONE OF TURQUOISE AND LS, WITH RHINESTONE WHICH IS SET OFF SE-DE-ROSE VELVET DIREC- YOU MAY GET A CLOSE-UP OF THIS ALL, CIRCLE. JUST BELOW THIS IS A TINY FELT HAT ADORNED WITH LARGE PEARL ORNAMENTS THAT SIMULATE EARRINGS. A PIN THAT MAY BE USED TO ADORN A HAT OR A FROCK APPEARS TO THE LEFT OF THIS- A BAR WITH TWO PENDANTS OF EMERALDS AND DIAMONDS. ELOW IS A HAT ORNAMENT OF RHINESTONES AND ONYX, B AND AT LEFT A CLUSTER OF FLOWERS MADE OF RHINESTONES SET IN SILVER—SUITABLE FOR Callot of Paris, I believe, launched this fad for the very long necklace—hang- ing down to the edge of the skirt. ‘Without actually competing with the jewelers in the selling of jewelry in Paris, the celebrated dressmakers often do offer manr a new fashion in jewelry. The way is simple enough. A model of Callot is seen wearing a charming new Callot frock, and with on intrinsic beauty as well. These pieces can never go out of style though they survive a hundred gen- erations. New fashions have brought about new ways of using stones and pre- cious metal. They have even brought about the demand for new types of ?fETH;;_EV£YZE~7§;Q_E?—T;¥érest to Younger it a long necklace extending to the edge of the skirt. So Callot is said o sponsor the knee-length necklace and women who might not take up with the fashion had they seen it worn fust once by some well dressed wom- an are keen about the new idea since they know that Callot sponsors it. 8o The Sacred Ruby of the Ikkans. By JACK GIBON. INSTALLMENT V. Suddenly their attention was ar- rested by the first Indian. The man had opened a little black box, which he had seized from the chest almost as quickly as had the boys picked up the bag of gold. Now he spoke in a firm, high volce —spoke in a tongue which neither of the boys could understand, but it claimed the attention of the two newcomers. e addressed them al- most as though he were making an oration, gesticulating with his hands es e did so. At the conclusion of his little speech he opened the black box and drew from it a sparkling red gem, dangling at the end of a gold chain. “The sacred mie, and crowd view of it It acted as magic upon the new- comers. Where they had first come into the room in u threatening man- ner they now cowered and averted thelr gaze from the flicker of crimson Jight that f ed from the gem. The Indian addressed them again, and there was a note of command in his volee. As he spoke the two others fell to thelr knees and bowed low before him. Another command and they arose and, backing out of the room, left the august presence of their new ruler. The bellefs of this Indfan tribe were simple The ruby, found perhaps In some wreck of a Spanish galleon, had for centuries been the real insignia of the tribe. He who wore it re. mained ruler of the tribe, it falling at his death to his next of kin, or to any other person to whom he should give it during his lifetime. Yet efforts were never made to se- cure the gem by stealth or by force. Among these primitive people the ruby was supposed to have sacred properties which would protect its wearer from all danger. It would have been the height of sacrilege for any native to attempt to acquire it. Thus it remained for the pirate Kirkbride to steal the gem. Learning the superstition of the Indians, he made no attempt to hide it, but main- tained that the ruby had come to him of its own accord, by some magical power. Thus he was recognized as the ruler of the tribe. Yet when he died he left no heirs behind him, nor could the ruby be found. Thus the tribe struggled along -vithout a ruler, until this day, when two boys, blown to the island by & hurricane, had chanced to_discover it The Indian, in his broken Engfish, told them all this, as they sat en the floor of Kirkbride's house. Be- tween them was the treasure chest and beside each of the twofboys was 3 heavy bag of goid. They had found a letter In tHe chest, written in the same hand that had given them the directions for digging. “To whoe'::‘l;‘sha.ll mfln"a‘ncwomnofxoldmm! blood-red ruby oonstitute all my 1by,” exclaimed Jim- d closer for a better find this . .. " have deserted me, taking with them my sturdy ship and the treasures I had_a . “The gold is but a trifie in com- parison with that which once lay idly in my storehouse. The ruby is the sacred insignia of the Indian tribe of Ikka. Whosoever shall find this ruby, and shall wear it, shall be recog- nized as ruler of all the Ikkans. “Let the fates play on! “JOHN KIRKBRIDI “The pirate’s last letter,” Jimmie breathed. *‘Let the fates play on.’ 1 wonder if he realized just how the fates were going to play with this treasure he left behind him. He says this is just a small amount; vet it's more money than I ever saw before in my life. So now vou're king,” he said, addressing the Indian. “All bail to_you!” Both boys salaamed in fashion and the Indian, patted them on the back. “Let's get back to the ship in a hurry,” sald Bob. ‘They laughed at us when we started out to dig for buried treasure. 1 bet they won't laugh now." The schooner yacht Nancy had made her repairs more quickly than she ex- burlesque grinning, pected. “We'll welgh anchor tonight, sir, sajd Mr. Ogilevy, the first officer, twa evenings later to Mr. Bryson and the boys, sittting in the forward cabin. “It's pretty weather we're having and we'll reach Colon within five days.” “Is the Nancy ship-shape now?"” Mr. Bryson inquired. “She is that,” sald Mr. Ogllevy. “As ship-shape as you please. It's a bad thing—these hurricanes.” ‘A bad thing?” exclaimed Jimmie. “Why, if it hadnt’ been for that hur- ricane we never would have come to Kirkbride's Isle.” “And we never would have found the treasure chest!"” broke in Bob. Both men laughed. ‘“Speaking of the treasure,” said Mr. Bryson, “I've had it all weighed up and according to the present gold standard each of vou boys s worth about $50,000." “Well,” sald Jimmie, “Bob and I have been talking it over and we figure out that we're not entitled to all of it. If we each put up $20,000 that will make a pool of $40,000, and that ought to be eplit up among the members of the crew for the work they did in saving us from the storm. “That's & fine spirit,” said Mr. Bry- son, “and I'm going to take you up on it. Mr. Ogilevy, will you figure out the members of the crew and how much should go to each of them “] will that,” seid Mr. Ogilevy, “and it's mighty fine of the boys to think of it.” That mnight the Nancy slowly weighed anchor, On the deck stood the whole crew, with Jimmie and Bob well to the fore. And back on shore a huge bonfire had been lighted and around it stood hundreds of natives, walving to their late guests. And in the center of the group, by the flicker- ing light of the fire, they could see the new r\ll:‘i’ of the tribe, the spark- ling gem Ikkans glistening around hie meck. it is that new styles of chokers, pend- |a certain aristocratic tone about such entifs, new bracelets and brooches |pleces, just as there is asbout the have within recent months been |choice pleces of early American maple started on their fashionable career|or later American mahogany. If you through the inspiration and &ponsor |really possess any fine old jewelry, so {ng of some one or other of the promi- | much the better. Otherwise you must nent French dressmakers. buy reproductions. But you'd best be It would be hard to say which is|quite frank about it. It is surprising more important in the survey of pres- | how very little fine jewelry was pos- ent-day jewelry tendencles—the ultra-|sessed by our coionial American modern designs that adhere to|ancestry. no past traditions or the designs that| In a season when green has been are frankly and proudly revivals. This |as conspicuous with the milliners and period jewelry appeals to the woman | dressmakers as it has this season, who has or wishes she had an old |small surprise is it that the emerald jewel box filled with the beirlooms |has been the stone most often chosen handed on by her ancestors. There is|to combine with diamonds. Large D. O, DECEMBER 13, THE LADY IN THE CENTER OF THE GROUP WEARS A BAN- DEAU OF LACEWORK OF DIAMONDS, WITH LARGE- MESHED NET CAP CAUG WITH PEARLS, THE NET AND PEARL EARRINGS AND A NECKLACE OF SQUARE DIAMONDS AMETHY! A PIN OF PEARL! RHINESTONE NECKLACE OF VERY RECENT VINTAG! THER DOWN A SET CONS| 1925—PART 8. AND AMETHYSTS IS BENEATH IT CORD, WITH EARRING TO MATCH SHOWN BELOW. square or oblong emeralds are ar- T as pendants to hang to dlamond-incrusted earrings with a necklace of diamonds with emerald pendants to go with it. Jade seems to share with emeralds the benefits that have been derived from such a green Winter as the pres- ent. There is much jade with dia- monds. Antique looking finger rings are made—an entire ring apparently cut from a single piece of jade. FORMING AN OVAL FRAME FOR THIS BEJEWELED LADY L SHOWN ABOVE. TO THE RIGHT, BEGINNING AT THE TOP, A GILT VANITY CASE ENAMEL ISTING OF HEEL AND SHOE BUCKLE OF MOTHER OF PEARL TINTED AND TO THE LEFT IS A SET CONSISTING OF CRYSTAL CIRCLE, WITH DIAMOND AND JADE PENDANT IN THE CENTER, HUNG ON A D ) A PEARL NECKLACE, WITH A PENDANT A PEARL AND IN BRIGHT COLORS, AND FUR- STUDDED WITH R TONES. BLACK With shortcut hair there needs must be fewer earrings, for the two really dont go very well together. With the masculine hair cut and long pendant or loop earrings most worm- en find that they look unpleasantly | like pirates. A sharp dirk between the teeth and the widebrimmed black hat and the picture would be complete. So a good many women don't wear |earrings—but a good many of them do. (Copyright, 1925.) Mary Elizabeth Comes for a Visit come all the way from New York to visit {ou. She has brought her holi- day clothes, too, for she expects you to entertain her well. The little coat on the extreme left should be colored dull green with crayon or water colors, with a band of darker green around the collar and cuffs. The bonnet and hat match the body color of the coat, but the flowers on the hat should be colored a very pale pink, and those on the bonnet tinted yello the front is bright red. Leave the strip down the front plain white, also the little yoke which extends all the way down the sleeves, and color the buttons red. This is one of Elizabeth’s everyday dresses. Her other everyday dress is at the upper right. It is a dark brown trimmed with tan, and the inverted pleats in the front are of tan also. The dress on the lower left If Mary Elizabeth {s is for to it | et Mary Elimbets blue velvetsen with tan buttons She is planning to save the other dress and coat un- til Christmas day, when she will wear them for the first time. The dress is of very pele pink silk with dainty black velvet scallops. It looks very nice on Mary Elizabeth, because she has dark eyes and halr. The coat is of blue velvet with ermine collar and muff, and hat to match. The gloves white, too. e and out thess holiday oy oetul Lo Ent the newest styles for little girls. And isn't it & pretty outfit? When you cut out Mary Elizabeth herself, color her slip a pale pink and leave her half socks plain white or color them tan. Too Bad! He—How are you? Me—Rotten. Got {nsomnia. He—How come? Me—Woke up twice in geometry clase this worning. £ R eaders Mr. Monk’s New Adventures. A bad-tempered tiger visited Mr. Monk's Exchange and demanded a soft job. He said he'd got tired of hunting around for every meal, and wanted a quiet life. Mr. Monk had seen monkeys on the menu at the tiger’s eating house, so he thought he had better hurry up and find him Please. Absent-minded Clerk—Was there something for you, madam? Madam—No, nothing. The Dumb One—Shall I wrap it? Probably Not. Dad—Take things slower, Patience never cost anything. Dutiful Son—Did you ever ride be- hind a slow taxi-driver? my boy. Mr. Monk, therefors. persuaded the post office to employ the tiger. His ‘work was to stand with his tongue out ready for anybody to lick stamps on It seemed rather a thirsty job for a hot climate, but the tiger sald he was quite satisfied. He told a press representative that many a free moal came his way! The Worst Yet. She—I wonder if you remember me? Twenty years ago you asked me to marry you. Absent-minded Prof.—Ah, yes, and aa 17 Brilliant. Mike—Well, T answered a question in clase today. . e—What answer did you give? Mike—Present,”