Evening Star Newspaper, August 23, 1925, Page 71

,4vere bel THE SUNDAY STAR. WASHINGTON, Woman Explorfleaching Lhasa, Gets an Unexpected Reception First White Woman to Enter Forbidden City Stopped By Officials, Who Give Alms Instead of Bestowing Reprimand Upon Traveler. DRA DAVID-NEEL. alarms have upset us > entered the for- nd that we ought to be- | come accustomed to them. ought to b haps, but we are not, and to be continually on the alert Droves most trying to our nerves washing our a stream, a village woman notic L . : my hands are white “as those of a pil- | S 2 o tug" (foreigner). Another time, while R o i W were drinking tea, a few soldiers of | e : e o x}i‘ b ”&@“ 4 frontier post came with some peas- | o L " s ants to look at us, and I heard again | 6 o » A some women expressing doubts about | my Mongolian origin. (At that time I| called my a Mongolian.) Women were the cleverest to detect the su|.|l1~[ | | | Ty est detall in my appearance that did not seem quitp Tibetan. Vge had come o be cather bold before men, but we really dreaded these cunning, perspici. cious country females, who had alws some remarks to air. Yongden curs them 10 times a ¢ We were far from being in a cheer- ful mind that morning when begin ning the ascent of a path that led uh,’ ed ward to the ridge that we had to cross. We had just learned that a Lhasa off «ial was living in a house near our( road. Had we known it tire day befor we would have traveled ight, but, | now that nothing could mend our n take, we could only trust our luck. Nob appened to be on the We left behind the No one was posted there to stop us at least put questions and examine the those who went their way | ass. We could already the skirt of the woods into | (the gods win!—exclamation of triumph, shouted on t passes), we would shout it loudly on [ (&Hn ext summit above the village. | SE Once more we had escaped safely. s “Ol Of” . < s ter us fields, o | o e said when he joined us. s Fratign i en told| to me when T Bad | e iore o o oo ara o o it o been &topped some months ago after | SPECiul of Tivetan salutes I put out my hard journey in the snows and the | (everend THE MARKET PLACE AT LHASA, “Look | cause that is the way they go to Khn us!” | Karpo. . We will also have to cross in a way fitting | Zogon, where maybe these lamas have v, wit spoken about us, if even they are not sent on our account Here is a bridge, und they are few in Tibet. This one shows that there is a trail of some im- | strengt portance on the other ank The | feat E h | Giamo Nu River flows in that direc-| hauled up Let ®s try to reach it, and we | we | see then what can be done | When my Sy e ey ” lady o we crossed the bridge and bravely |and 1 were ti e ey n o few ininutes later climbed the trail beyond it without |attached toge W 2 perfect collectedness, Y¢ | ath indeed when you told knowing where it would lead us. that we mastered immediately (he sitae. | i the forests of Kha Karpo that you| Our £00d luck brought us the second | Dresse tion e mmaeh an it aptely the situa-| ‘would make them dream and see mi- | day near an encampment of cowmen. | us swis = gl s in his power. | vy gog douiit that fat fellow and | They gave us some butter and tsampa | abie puppets @ put his load on the ground and|hig retainers, who looked so long at | (flour of voasi arley), but did not Ollowed the man, chatting with him, |yvou, have been bewitched.” . |allow us to sleep in thelr hut. There : without having even cast a glanc A’ new alarm led us a few weéeks #0 armied men assembicd, | [N, less than one minute nificant old mother as-I endeavored | tne turqtaioe e Mo sant valley of - that Sicy Wee DRebaL | ndtlen. n the other ‘ : A turquoise blue Nu River, its na expedition, whose plan | look was worth belng led before a|ural parks and evergreen, o v s Yo he PR | ferrvmen began their work i kudak (nobleman) could never arige in| gurselves once more in che wild inknown travelers. Degging | 27K they gave pulling the long tow- bis mind. other neighboring camps | 7 1sed us in the air produced quit ount of cheese, | butter and pa After a night | spent in the ope we started, heavily | ded but certain that starvation was not imminent : country 16 rather | g red at | "T'HE country we were crossing had | By ting fixed at the same level terrifyingly Only the and it sagged | the ponpo gi sted my joy ¢d personal sincere strongest country- men dar ventu Lcross by 1t unaided » from the bottom the sheer was rather a of them were ferrymen, we ran | an | . wcross ) t ed as cam h ro a Tibetan girl gh straps and wooden hook 1 the leather cable @ most unpleasant kind of jig It we for a little While, we felt < 1 1z ne > an rning we tsan dr Iked river then « splash below 2d in towing rope had br attach the LEFT alone, T 1} among the lugga be the end of the mecting? Were we " called as any other travelers might | hind have been or ssed us The: sked abou ad the ponpo special{and many other details for suspicion about us? I already saw my-|long time, and one of them stz self escorted to the nearest Chinese|me with peculiar insistence. They said| 4 none of the charms of the Nu porder, a prey to the curiosity of the|that they were in the service of the |valley. It w lder, often barren. country folk. Still T did not think a | Governor of Menkong, and were car-| The trails were difficult to find, and we single minute of giving up the game. | rying a message from him to the offi-| had high ranges to cross. The people I had taken the challenge and sworn | cer residing at Zogon. were a rough lot, but they treated us on the “iron bridge” that a woman| We both had noticed the way one of | well ¥ A would pass, and I would. But when | them looked at me, and, as ail people | That region is rveyed. and how, if It was not today? {in our circumstances would have | formation appears about it Time elapsed. I heard a kind of|done, we began to fancy the worst |maps. The countrymen had | ha T sound grew louder.{ things. Maybe some rumors had|they told us, about the exister u ad Men would come to At they were draw- | ing_out ter. But giddine: | might s, suspended as we | were e the feu not en- ie way in which we rded securtty for | senger i ect had the lapsed and dropped | nerves solid I a conscious pas- position whose % grip to the strap but could not be se of who col backwary had no doubt I n fe n hour. But w companion rat b and lovked w frightened eyes to the point where the strap to which we were suspended was fastened to the hook. “Wi is the matte said. “I he spiritua You need r With she pointe ou uns | could s - with you?"'I wai lama protect us. have ca v teacher) t slight motion of the hool the head 100 d If the strap « would fall in the deep river were, swimming was out the question uld T even disentangle {myself and drag the girl for a while, there was no landing fn the go! where the river flowed between gigar tic walls of rocks. I looked attentively at the knots, but could notice nothing Wrong. Shu ou loose, then we Tied s TUEAP. LACE OF THE DALAI LAMA AT LHASA. Yongden was coming back, chanting q" lamaist office. If he was returning alone—a sudden hope, even T spread after our passage near Men-| pilings (foreigners) from some of them kong and had only recently reached|swho had heen to Lhasa or in Chi the governor, who had dispatched |but they had never_ seen any, and tainty, flashed in my mind these two to inform his colleague and | none had ever visited thefr count The lama was before me. A mock- | order him to ascertain who we were. | Yongden boasted of having met two of ing gmile on his lips, he opened his| previous disquieting meetings had|them in northern Tibet, and for 1and and showed me a silver coin. | had a quick solution, but t me 1 myself I humbly confessed th#t I had (*He has given me a rupee as alms,” | after it a lasting terror. Zogon, where | never caught sight of any. Hetan<lias. Wit haat of o lie said. “Now let us he off.” EST e e was ~One day from the summit of & hill| J€18% (288, Who had often crossed| e pass we turned to-| still far away, and ¢ ward the house of the Lhasa agent,|the same question. Were we not walk narrow, glittering ribbon. It was | Jo/H€r now invi 1 1 > | the Glamo Nu Chu. the upper course [ 7 s : ar below s, fand. Welling foi6urtdbom | th 1 \-y‘?rv;"zl]‘,fi \v\‘ T avlr’:\" | We revertea to | of the Salwen. | wowld the Iy added a wish for the welfare of | yramps, . Wo had become We had heard that somewhere in|iowing ro onee more we had sicceeded. . But | Sacred game dreaming of the hunter. |that region there was a place where | g we were f i e e aut| ~ One morning at dawn a batch of |the river could be crossed by a cable | Piis Rinalor b il @OSteC] pilgrims crossed us and stopped to ex- | outstretched from: one bank to the | A few days o few words. According to my | other. But as the passengers were | s 3 1 continued to walk slowly |very few on that out-of-the-way path | : ahead while Yongden was talking with | the ferrymen lived far from the river he men. When he rejoined me he|and eame there only when they were was more frightened than I had ever | informed that a number of people seen him. | meant to cross. We lone, poor pil- “They grims might have remained for weeks sald. “Who in front of the rope but for the happy seen you mstance that a lama had ‘per-| Thobgyal? formed some religious. ceremonies at that region | the house of a farmer on our side of Riwoche was a place where T haq|th¢ water and was returning to his stayed twice during my previous jour. | Monastery on the other side with a nuch 1 an | ney in from the “fron bridge.~ 4oZen of his followers. So we walted much more han | i foar gr "% ¢ 1t grew great. | °nly one day. We found a pretty shel- h detecting then Anahoae. | er hour after hour. At the sight of |L°F bgtween pitturesque rocks. Th we could not es: o meeting. 7 |each group of men or women which | Weather was gloriously bright and the We a £ "of terrible | happened to be on the road we were | témperature mild artal g § 't swhite, | trembling, thinking of the ultimate| The crossing o sandy noise to| CAtastrophe we expected soon. Really |cable was not new to us. We had done g \pparition, | We were on the way to madness. |it in other places, where two cables COKInERIAaD aEltely right and to| 10 that mood we reached a bridge | were used, a different one for each | tinued to “hope” they would. the left in the hope that, as in the old | o0 the Nu River. . | bunk. At this spot the departure was| And now we were safely landing on a rock or o tree would open sud-| et US take our chance,” I sald tofrom a point much higher than the|a projecting rock of the cliff. Half a Redies the danger |MY companion. “On this side of the [landing, -and the ' passenger glided | dozen women took hold of us, express- oliA Beove: ho miracle | Stream we risk meeting old acquaint- | swiftly, as in a switchback. There was | ing their sympathy in loud exc paed Talries sods left us|2Nces from the province of Kham, be-|but a.single cable, fastened to poles | tions. The ferrymen who had untied apparently unaided * x ok % your eves,” are giday. safe ‘It is loose,” she repeated. wrmured it with such a convinced one that T began to doubt. That Ti- T said to the girl Nothing is loosing. only a question of time. men have repaired the and taken us on land be- e all knots were loose? That could /e been the matter of a bet. I thought of it and smiled inwardly. The slow way in which the ferrymen were working was rather irritating At last one proceeded toward us in the.way flies walk on the ceiling. Wa wung again more than before. ‘She .says that the knots of the straps are loose,” I told him as soon as he reached us “Lama kieno!"” (I knew it, O lama), he exclaimed. He gave a hasty look in the direction of the hook. “I can- not see it well,” he said. “I hope ft will keep fast till you arrive at the| bank.” He hoped! “hoped. He went away, working with hands and feet, as he had come, and when he had joined his companion they began to haul us again. Would the knots bear these repeated jerks? We con- the mnocturr ain the y after that a pongo. nge which we ascend. The news | pe was possibl | a steep slope that hiding place. The| see us both. No ¥s onl told of one was crossing the r had terriiie The path did not coming official wou doubt he would question us. These Lhasa men. of whom a number go to the English stat the Him many oppor ple, and are the commor ern Tibe people from Riwoche,” he knows if they have not when you went there with You ‘are quite famous in large " ns in Bless the fellow—TI also a river hanging to a us till But, alas! N the middle of the afternoon we | suddenly heard the jingling of bells, | Just above our heads on the winding | patch appeared a well dressed, sturdy | man, foillowed by soldiers and servants leading horses. He stopped, aston- ished at sight-of us. According to Ti- betan custom, we threw ourselves hur- riedly on the low side of the road to| show our respect. The official pro- ceeded downward and stopped again before s, surrounded by his followers. Ne e e questions about our | Ar cou questions about our jo ,fley and other things. When all 3 A been said the ponpo still remained Joking sitently at us, as did all who hind him T felt like needles piercing my brain, 50 awful was the tension of my nerves. Did these men doubt us? That silence must be broken or something bad was | to come out of it. How could I? Yes, T knew. With the same chanting tone of the | Tibetan beggars, only a little lowered | by, it seemed, a feeling of reverence, I implored a charity. “Kusho rimpoche, nga tso la soira nang rogs nang!” (“Noble sir, give us alms, please!”) My voice broke the concentration of | the group. I even felt physicaliy the relaxation. The Tibetans had lost thefr suspicious manner. Some laughed. | The good officlal took a cotn in his purse and handed it to my companion. “Mother!” exclaimed Yongden, simu GOLDEN ROOFS OF THE DALAI LAMA “‘lm: N the Sousas { other about our escape. Migration From Spain Preceded Establishment of Sousas H Another of Those Family Groups of Musicians Who Have | Environment of Capital Described by STORY of John Philip Sousa | will go well in this set of nar- ratives about Weshington mu- sicians. The Rambler wrote a long account of John Phillp for The Star in July, 1921, but it was not used as & “ramble,” and there is justification for going over the mutter again. That is, the Rambler feels justiffed in rewriting one of his own stories which some of you have for- got and which the other subscribers never- read. g ‘The Rambler dug nearly all the facts from records in the offices of the recorder of deeds, register of wills and assessor of taxes and from old directories. Nobody else seems to have had the patlence ‘to pick them out and put them together, and the Rambler feels that he is entitled to use them in his work. Of course, if you object to a story the substance of which has been written before, you are af liberty to turn your eyes away from this story or make curl papers and lamp lighters of it Antonio Sousa, father of John| Philtp, was born at Seville, Spain, in | 1824. His forebears went from Portu- g1l to Spain mnd had been settled | there everal generations before the | birth of Antonio. He “went to ses when he was 12 rom | 1836 to 1850 he sailed, became a mu nd played.in bands, on British | s and lutér on United States warships. He joined the band of the Brooklyn Navy Yard abot in that year was married to Trinkhaus, who was born Darm. in 1826, Brooklyn with Their first chil in Brooklyn. Her pet name w w, and when the Tamily ashington in 1834, all t Navy Yard loved in s Tiny moved Sousa The family was of the congregation Christ Church, Navy Yard, and old men and their 'wives, who have not grown old, will tell you ncedotes of Tiny Sousa. When she grew up she became the wife of Alex Varela of the rean (GGen cral’s Office. When the Rambier v hunting up the Sousas four years ago he found Tiny living with one ¢ sons at 5416 Efghth street northwest, and in the phone book I ree Alex ander R. Varela avenue, and Katherine C. Varela at the same address. I feel sure that is little Tiny living with her good son Alexander. The second child of the Sousas, Josephine, was born in Brook Iyn and died in infancy. = - of came to Wash ington, in 1854, they rented a two- ry brick house on G street south east, No. 636. It is the third house east of Christ Church. There John Philip Sousa was born, November 54 The block is hounded by Sixth, Sev e E and G streets soutk and the lot owners in the square, the yea of John Philip’s birth, were James McFarland, F. I Robertson, James Gordon, Jessie Ergood. Malinda Smith, Philip Beigler, A. H. Marks, Samuel Nelso as Dennfs, William Richards, McKnight, Mary Prout, Robert Jonathan out,” Willlam Hodges, F. S. Walsh, izabeth Herbert, Thomas Hutchin on, W. H. Cook. Joseph M. Carrico, Ruppert, Martin_King, W God Robert B: Jacobs, rman the lot ascertained. that the knots had never loosened and were cursing the girl whose silly idea had given them a fright. The poor thing did not need that added to her nervousn She became hysterical, weeping and shriek- ing. It was a scene of picturesque confusion % % % FONGDEN took opportunity of the general emotion to beg “his aged mother, who had suffered such an agony while hanging on that rope and needed a good meal to refresh her- 51 All those present gave rather liberally, and we started, loaded with a fresh suppl e out-of-the-way country in which ymstances had ied us proved most interesting. We often yed with village people, witnessing thefr cus- toms close at hand and listening to their talk about the events hapvening in Tibet. No traveler other than one who was believed by them to belong to the same stock of humble people could have gathered the treasure of observations I collected. They could supply matter for quite a number of volumes. After these peaceful days the storm again threatened. The Lhasa govern- ment had sent officials in remote parts of the country to establish a new taxa- tion. It would be interesting to relate the details of their journey and the motives that led to the establishment of the tax, but it would be too long now. These ponpos, moving across the country with all more Inquisitive and arrogant than their masters, constituted a real ‘dan- ger for us. Once when we heard about the pres ence of one of these officials in a cer- tain village we managed to reach it at night, and, leaving behind the group of houses in which we supposed that the big man was sleeping, we spent the remainder of the night In the bed of a dry waterfall. At dawn we started, only to discover that the well decorated building that was no doubt his abode stood ahead on our wWay. As it was still early, we were lucky enough to meet no one in the vicinit When the sun rose we were alread, far from there, congratulating each In the middle of the same afternoon we were told that the ponpo had removed three days ago from that house to another village, through which we would have to pass on the morrow. We tramped agafn nightly till we passed the place. Perfectly convinced that time that our trouble was over, we slept happily in a chaos of rocks and thorns. The following morning, after 10 minutes’ walk, we came in front of a large settlement sheltered in a recess of, the mountain. About 30 good horses were tied outside of it. Country people already crowded in, bringing graims grass, butter,: meat, and so on. 4 This was the place where the officlal actually had put up. A stalwart head servant supervised the going inside of the things brought by the villagers. He stopped Yongden, and after a talk which appeared endless to me he or- dered a man to give us a meal of tea and tsamipa. We could not refuse that kind offer. Beggars like us could not but rejoice at that piece of good luck. We made a pretense of eating it, seat- ed on the steps of the kitchen, smiling, laughing and joking with the attend- ants of the gentleman when we would rather have felt inclined to take to our heels. STILL later came the dramatic cross- ing of two high passes and.our tragic Christmas, lost among the snows on unexplored ranges of moun- tains. Our food supply, was exhausted. The snow, falling dutng ‘four days without ceasing, had hidden all.traces of trails, leveled the precipices and grew higher and higher around the abandoned hut—Summer shelter of cowmen that we had been lucky enough to reach. Yongden, tired out by three days of vain researches for a path, starving, dellriou: wanted to start gt night, for where he did mot (Continued on Fifth Page.) cir ttle | - happy | Connecticut | hosts of retainers, | THE OLD SOUSA HOME 7 b - L B HOUSE AT LEFT. re James Mc ers in the square w | Farla 1 | Mar James Gordon, Je in Smith, PI Marks, Sam Francis Dennis, Thom: 1 Richards, Mary Prout, Ienderson | Hodgge Joseph Hutchinson, W James T. T Phelps, Jc Nea 1 It was a and ch Jacob Wa Proy square with nges in ownerahip frequent. Making a rough c: tion, the Rambler feels safe | ting it down that the house | Sousa was born was ¢ 1 Ergood or was on a { by Malinda Smith | “John Phillp S Christ Church, his birthplace. His brother named Ph | & brother named F that John Philip | ot b thi o, whi of ncle given Philip his midd | name. Neither do I know which | his related Johns. he was named for. There were Johns Trinkhaus and Johns Sousa Not long after John Philip’s birth the Sousa famfly moved west on G street southeast to a brick house on the north side between Fifth and Sixth. Two children, both of whom died young, were born there One | was Ferdinand and the other Rosina M A Antonio and h wife bought a lot, No. 1, Square 1019, fronting one hundred feet on Pennsyl vania Avenue, south side, between in honor | was of as lot was bought from John H. O'Nefll and his wife, Emily, the considera- tion was one hundred dollars, the wit- nesses were Samuel S. Briggs and | Robert Clark, and the deed was made | to “Antonio Soucca.” Many persons found trouble with the spelling of “Sousa” when the family was new in ‘Washington. * ok ¥ % ] BELIEVE that Elizabeth Trinkhaus Sousa did not approve Tony’s choice of a home site and they did not build on it. If was too far from the center of activity on the Navy Yard. Penn- sylvania_avenue southeast was not a great white way. There was not a gas lamp in every square—not a gas lamp on any square. Herring-bone brick sidewalks had not been laid. The ‘“commons” came down to the Avenue and stretched far nmorth and south of {t. Cows grazed on the wide Two vears later, that isin 1858—April 30—Antonio and Elizabeth usa bought from Samuel Armistead and his wife, Margaret, lot 11, square 903, at the southeast corner of Seventh and E streets southeast. Thomas E Venable, who owned most of the square, subdivided his holdings April 23, 1862, and in the surveyor's office division. He sold the lot at the north east corner of the square—the south- east corner of Seventh and E streets— | to Samuel Armistead. who sold the lot |to Sousa. The price was $600, and | witnesses to the deed were H. G. Mur- ray and James Cull. A few days after buying the lot from Armistead, Antonio Sousa and his wife sold a third of it, facing on E street, to Salvador Accardi for $200. Accardi wasa workman in the Navy Yard for 12th and 13th streets southeast. The | way through which a wheel-track ran. | you can see the plat of Venable's sub- | | | | | | { i | any years having t with Mexico The wa card Dreen his left th hird of the origi o Sousa ies Dreer two-sto John neighbe t the good-hearted an would not leave e which she rea wish to get i story for to the mem ite of F I lift my hat zabeth Trinkhaus Soysa. I fec was ible and sympathetic woman. Her love for the old home was deep, and attach- ment to her neighbors was strong. A man may be as happy at the corner of Common Place and Boulevard de Plebe as on a corner lot at Primrose Park or Nabob Terrace. Of course when a man makes a little pile & wife insists on moving into what i d a ‘“better neighborhood” and buiiding a big house, gene 1 a big t t on it, eating grapefruit f breakfast’ and talking of their fon nes for opera and art Perhaps this is praiseworthy. We want to “get on’ in the world, and especially to show people that we have got on, and some of us try to improve our minds by study and observation, and come to as good an understanding of the fine and beautiful things of the world as we are able. The Rambler etimes thinks that when a man becomes properous he might be more happy by making over the old home. puttink in upto.date plumbing. tiling the cellar and putting in a swimming pool raising the roof and making a roof garden, setting aside one room and cellecting a good library, building = congervatory on the back lot, and keeping in touch with his old neigh- bors and the friends of his youth than by going,out among strangers, S0 HERE are persons who have a de- sire, which they call ambition. to climb, no matter by what means and whether they can afford it or not There is something pathetic and fool ish in the climber. A man, and par tleularly his wife, want to butt in among people who have more money and have had it longer. These peo- ple may be polite enough to them, with an air of condescension in the politeness which s more insulting than downright rudeness. Generally people who have been prosperous fu more than one “generation are sus- picious of men who have been reared on corned beef and cabbage and reached the state of asparagus tips and mushrooms late in life. Perhaps they don’t like them because they had courage, brains and luck to climb out of the ditches without any &n- | cestors to save them from the labor of swinging a pick or taking physical exercises on a washboard. However, there are persons who Ho had but one leg, the | 1 action in the | 2 ood | | prove on Mrs that the c a new one | ork. An will tell you th stands the tonio and ¥ Looking for 1854 lowing square stands Prospe: M. C Sousa Dre Ct F. Bayne. ries Pr Sheets Wm to t ived 1l the proper paring the with the city finds that a maj Uved in the square owners lived in borhood of Misso Third and Sixth s lived in the brick ki Dupont Circle own JOHN PHILIP SOUSA AT AGE OF i0. Developed in the Favorable Rambler. othe n district arour