Evening Star Newspaper, July 26, 1925, Page 65

- Po THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, JULY 26, 1925—PART 5 oman's Clothes Must Be Either Ultra Feminine Or Ultra Masculine FOR GARDEN PARTIES AND OTHER RATHER FORMAL AFTERNOON OCCASIONS MOST WOMEN SE- LE SOMETHING QUITE “LADYLIKE.” PASTEL SHADE THE FROCK ON THE LEFT IS OF FLOWERED CHIFFON IN AND 1S WORN WITH A VELVET-AND-HAIR HAT IN BOIS DE ROSE COLOR. THERE ARE SOME WOMEN WHO CONTINUE TO WEAR BOYISH SPORT FROCKS FOR ALL AFTERNOON PARTIES, AND AT THE RIGHT YOU SEE A TWO-PIECE JUMPER FROCK OF WHITE GEORGETTE | feminine BY MARY MARSHALL. T is a curious thing—this ever- recurring desire on the part of women to adopt the fashions of men and to make themselves look in this way or that just a trifle like the sterner sex. No presentation of the psychology of women's dress would ever be complete without a study of this peculiar tendency! Just what does the word ‘man- nish” as applied to women’s dress really mean? It would certainly be a mistake to -take all “mannish” manifestations at their face value and conclude that they were diametrically opposed to all that was feminine, or that women affected the mannish pose only when they had given up or lack- ed the desire to be really feminine. Sometimes it seems as if nothing were more absurdly feminine than the mannish fads of women. It is as it a woman had hér hair cut exactly like a man’s so that one might see more clearly how insistently feminine the contour of her face and head and neck and shoulders really was. If there were not some truth in this it would be very, very difficult to understand the present vogue for “mannish” fashions at a time when sex interest—in art, literature, drama —is sald to be so much overempha- sized. But, of course. there is a world of difference in the intentions of the woman of today who wears her hair close cut, wears short, straight frock and a mannish tailored coat and an untrimmed felt hat, and a Dr. Mary Walker who was once a familiar fig ure in Washington wearing dignified black trousers and frock coat, looking for all the world like a quiet little country parson. She wore men's | clothes, but as the term is used now there was nothing whatever “man- nish” about her. ¥ kxn UST at present hear on every hand the prediction that ‘“ultra” hions are coming back— ruffles, trills, ringlets, laces, ruchings, poke bonnets, ribbon bows, true love knots, parasols, all that sort of thing. And at the same time we hear per- sistently the statement that the man- nish affectations of fashionable wom- en are becoming more and more pro- nounced. You may wonder what to believe. The best thing is to believe both sides of ~the story and accept the situation as presenting two quite different trends in women’s fashions —not rival trends, because there is no animus between the two. The same woman who appears in such manly attire this morning, with hat as se- verely untrimmed as her brother’s and coat as straight and as well tai- lored, you encounter this eve- ning 100Kin; as a lovely lady from one of nard’s canvases. The boyis become more sh than ever. Paris it is clipped very, very short | and is worn brushed off the face, the only of a wave being across the front. Undoubtedly this will not be a long-lived fad, for wom- en nowadays in league with their bar- bers and with their assistance devise new wavs of presenting what short locks they have left. Relatively speak- with in the minority. There are folk who share in | a measure the sentiment of most con- s ple that “really nice women shingled hair. They might have dif in proving their contention unless, of course, they mean by “really nice women simply women who do not wear shingled hair, h husbands and parents, like some American husbands and parents, ly object to the bob or the o it is that the hairdressers re making little “transfor mations” and postiches that can be added to the 'short head to give the effect. of long hair. On the other hand, they have taught themseives rvative C how to arrange long hair so that it | almost looks bobbed o T UNDOL’BTEI}LY the present vogue for rich and ornate and heavy nish your halrcut, you cannot look quite like your brother if you load yourself with jewelry. Any and every sort of jewelry is in fashion, save that which is dainty. We used to feel that it was better to wear a small really good stone than a large inferior stone, and that to be found out wear- ing imlitation bijoutery was almost as bad as using cotton table linen. Now the prejudice against imitation jewel- ry seems to have disappeared almost entirely with very many people. To be sure they do put the ban on rhine- stone engagement rings and imitation platinum’ wedding rings, but that is about all. Every one has been wear- ing imitation pearls which must have been very disconcerting to women who had™ strings of priceless real pearls, because the imitation pearls in many cases looked quite as good. Just at present some women have given up pearls, probably because they have grown tired of them rather than, as some folks say, because the imita- tion pearl has brought discredit upon the real sort. Any sort of striking, exotic jewelry is in order, providing, of course, it goes well with the costume of which ft is to be a part. Women take samples of their new frocks to the jewelry stores nowadays and they scour the shops to find new and unusual pieces that will look right on certain frocks. Whether you could call the very short skirt a_mannish fashion or not would be difficult to say. Certainly men of our own days, save those who wear kilts, are inclined to cover their knees whenever they stir from their own apartments, and at pres- ent they have lengthened and broad- ened the covering for their legs be- low the knees. The more trivial women's skirts become the more voluminous do men's trousers seem to be. And there doesn’'t seem to be anything that could be regarded as a valid omen for the return of longer skirts. Occasionally one sees one of the new bouffant skirts worn for afternoon or evening that extends well below the knees, but this is obviously for picturesque effect. A white tulle evening frock made with drooping shoulders, snug bodice and distended hips and long flounced skirt that almost touched the ground, proves to be not so demure as it seems. Beneath the flounces the underslip comes just to the knees, the nude stockinged legs showing qulllle clearly behind the transparent tulle. * ox % % O wear with your pansy purple frock you way like & pair of the new pansy-colored shoes. They are made of kid in opera cut with very high heel and carry with them an air of Paris chic, despite the fact that they are made in the United States. You hear much about asymmetric shoes nowadays, and of course you know that these shoes with a long name are not alike on both. sides. The strap arrangement lacks the usual symmetry. Of course this is not quite new, though the effect is that of a novelty. The old-fashioned button high shoes were, for that matter, quite assymetric. There seems to be less difference in the vamp of French shoes and Ameri- [= shoes now than there was. While undoubtedly the shoes of France are made with a shorter vamp, better to suit the shape of the average French foot, they frequently have the effect of considerable length. It is no longer difficult in_this country to find what the shoemakers call a modi- fied short vamp, with a fairly rounded toe. The detall that marks the French shoe still more than any- thing else is the heel. Parislans like their heels not only very high but very small at the base. They are mere spikes to stand upon. For those who want to follow very closely in the lead of the French fashion capital there are American-made spike-heel mous popularity here—and they are shoes, but they have not gained enor- Ll A IN FEMININE VEIN IS THE WHITE TULLE FROCK AT THE LEFT. TRIMMED AT SHOULDER AND WAIST WITH LARGE WHITE S| K BLACK SATIN IS THE DINNER FROCK BUILT ON BOYISH LINES AT THE RIGHT. THE BELT IS EM BROIDERED WITH RHINESTONES AND EMERALDS WITH A THAT FORMS A PLEASING CONTRAST TO THE FULL-SKIRTED, FLOWERED CHIFFON. A PLAIN RHINESTONE BUCKLE. WHITE FELT HAT IS WORN WITH THE WHITE GEORGETTE FROCK. Things Which Are oif Interest to Younger SWIMMING—Breathing Queer Pet Dogs Mr. Monk’s New Adventures S — : Of Other Lands; N W our little fox terrier is 5 1"“5 woos “}‘1 =it ien’t there, it's probably because the | troting at your heels, or your meaning has become lost through the dale comes running at your whistle, p ages, and scholars can't tell just the Belgian boy is patting his schip- shero it came from The meanings AT s Ep given are the meanings of names in perke or the Mexican boy s playing g obeiee i s e v with his Chihuahua. And in other beginning—for every name, when it orts of the world there aro other was first given, had some sort of spe kinds of dogs, common household pets, clal meaning. that we never hear of at all. Boys' Names. The schipperke is a small, lively Jacob (Hebrew), Jacques (French) dog that is very popular as a watch- supplanter. dog_on barges used on. the canals James (Hebrew); supplanter. in Belgium. A ledge a foot wide ru Jason (Greek); healer. around every boat a short dis Jean (French); grace of the Lord. from the top. It is on this edge tI Jeffrey (English); good peace. the schipperke runs back and f Jeremiah (Hebrew), Jeremy (He and guards the boat. brew): exalted of the Lord. i Jerome (Greek); holy name Dog Was Wild. Jervis (Teutonic); eager for war. The Chihuahua (pronounced chi- TR e wa-wa) is one of the strangest dogs | IR GElicy st anna known. He is ‘a native of the state for which he is named—the largest e Jonathan (Hebrew); the gift of Je- hovah. : : . Jordan (Hebrew); descended. One of the most promising side h i ml;‘rh;\k iani\"!:!nfi Joseph (Hebrew), Josephus (Latin); o1 articles [ to breathe, putting . ows Mr. t lepool | agreed to stand with his head behind | aadition. of articles | to breathe, putting it under the water ows Mr. Monk had: at Junglepool | S87esd to stand with BEhead bebind fandttlon: - L for jewelry is a direct outcome of the fad | not very comfortable. for short hair. No matter how man Readers Here’s Something My Dog Does— Your Name | If your name begins with “J" or “K,” you may find it, with its mean ing, in the list below. If your name “My dog walke to school with me |gu L E ully smart,” levery morning. He knows dogs aren't | Frances allowed in the school yard, so he goes| What i r_clever trick has just as far as the school and then |your dog Write and t turns back and goes home, without [about it. Address vour letter to the trying to follow me any farther. He's | Boys and Girls' Page, care of The not a very good dog—just a cur, I!Star A Pair of Shoes Breaks the Ice. “Oh, why didn't T ask mother to gothe slipper, dangled comforts along to help. buy these shoes?”|her toes and she could eat in pes S moaned Fay. “She never would have| Dr. Marston didn’t talk very much Girls” Names. let that salesman give me a palr|during the meal. Evidently she had Jacqueline (French); supplanter. SRats toor el dor. oot P IEoR oy s & vOr o hor mtres Jane (Hebrew); God's grace. 1 tabuliy 1 he |@nd was not at all interested in I . Janet (Gaelic); darling Jane. J She'limped slos paintully in the “inally the luncheo s over, a Jean (Gaelic); loving Jane. ill-fltting_new shoes, then, as Marston arose couldn’t Jeannette (French): little Jane. came within sight of Dr. Marston's|get her slippers on! She reached down Jemima (English); falr as the day. |house, tried hard to walk as though land tugged at them, but to no avail. Jessica (English): the Lord's grace.|nothing was the matter, practicing|Her face turned ot ARSI 8 Jessie (Gaelic); my prosent, a forced smile. = ”1 sod heavens, child, what's 9= | Joan, Joanna (English); gift of the| She really couldn’t wear the old|matter?” asked the surprised doc! AN ESKIMO DOG. lord. shoes, and how terrible it was to have “My—my—slippers!” = gasped At Last t through the nose & Laf Joyce (English); joy- | such an important event as lunch |almost in tears. “I slipped them Auto Demonstrator (who has tried |state in Mexico. His ancestors are - s S SN B L R . e luten it hem Breathe With Every Stroke. for three hours to sell the car)—Now |believed to have been wild and to Josephine (French); addition. of tight shoes. Dr. M n was the You can't get them on!" 'A ve ever seen |I'll throw in the clutch! have run about the woods like squir Judith (Hebrew); praise of the Lord.jone woman Fay admired most, fext |membering sort of smile crawl have | Uncle Eben—T'll take her, then. I[rels. They lived in holes in the Julla (Latin), Juliana, Juliet (Eng-|[to her mother. She was a famous|across her hostess’ face. “That ith their | knew it I held off long enough I |ground, which accounts for the long, ok SOEC Batrod, scientjst, and, being a friend of Fay's|minds me of the very same sort of ter line [ would get something free. \| strong " toenails found on this dog. Justine (French); just. mother, had invited Fay to lunch to | thing that happened to me once when ebrows The Chihuahua has a funny round Kate (English), Katerina (Bohemian), | look over some of her colllections. T was about ur age and 1 was « Back to Earth. ;‘g:”f‘“_“j;"gh‘“'f’;m"1‘\"5'*;"“!!“& sl Katharine (Greek), Katherine (Eng- ghDr. Mar;toyr\\a was very]dizlmfie‘d. ing tea with our mir It seems Sidb, 5 P short, thick and either red- 3 She greete courteously, but in |funny now, but I ne: died! Here, nd then Dumb—At least for once in my life | dish, black or fawn. And some of . by i 36 50y Bt e aboent minded sort of manner that | chid, push back your chair and T1i D the members of his family are so - : Keturah (Hebrew); perfumed. made Fay feel insignificant. She o [slip ‘them on—no, better still, I Dora—When was that? small that one of them could stand S ] wished to make a friend of Dr.|fetch you a pair of bedroom slippers, mrl;"f:'.]\ln" After my first trip in an in the paim of your hand with all i Marston, but the doctor didn't seem |for you can't visit comfortably in plane. our feet. S D the sort of person who took to awk- | tight shoes! She zain, onc hl'uul'\'v probably seen a dachshllnd’— #®That was the end of the “coconut Hg:r. The kun%&{gol\;h% (hreg’ ‘n:; The Eyes Of a Cat. Wi 3.(,ung"g,r,K e ahuranibel 5 The ”’l'.‘-d "‘l": that long, sausage-like dog which is!dodge.” As Mr. sai nut was so scared that he jumped in ¥ At last they were at luncheon. | nified doctor a favorite i ;. He is cailed d? oo dA i il g‘“‘: to his Wife | {1 20 eold water. but ho'd have got | JRECENT _experiments throw new|, AL 1ot they vers at wncheon|nifed doctor @ er preclous friend. dachshund because he's used to hunt } 2fterward, it was a case of every man | jnio hot water if he stayed out. So light on the apparent superlority | the heels out of her pumps so that |ship with Dr o 0o HEEE Bkt dachs, animals somewhat like our |for himself, as you can’t argue with a | there was trouble either way. of vision in animals that are active at | _____ : badgers. night, says the Sclentific American. . : Evidently, they see not only the part |sten arc light. This record, or ana-|animal, is the hest equipped of all : > Was Pet of Vikings. They are much more beautiful than |and courageous that he'll stand UP|.¢ the light spectrum that we see but flyzed beam of light, includes the rays | while the tiger and the common cat, reathiis proper S0t ted tuvii the Letting Him Know. Up_in Norway a favorite dog is|the regular Eskimo dogs. B A ‘{”“"2: some of the ultra-yiolet light as well. | that are visible to man as light, as|both strong{y nocturnal, are nearly Lead too much Jt roll the body.| Postman—Bad luck, Mr. Doolan!]the Norwegian elk hound. He's a Eskimo Dogs Howl g“‘_‘ the pet of the Russian farmer |mqyig greatly tmproves their vision. well as the shorter ultra-violet rays{as capable of seeing at night as the Syok at any goo swimmer. His | Here's a black-edged letter for you. |noble fellow, who proudly traces his B! - e In order to ascertain just what part|that humans cannot see. This record|owl. ily cuts str ough the water, Doolan—It's me poor brother dead. |family back to the days of the Vik- Eskimo dogs are large and are col- > of the spectrum various animals do|served as a basls of comparigson be-| The owl does not depend gn the 41v his legs and arms move, and the | 1'd know his handwriting anywhere. |ings. When these brave seamen were | ored like wolves. Many of them seem s actually see, their eyes were dissected |tween the various animal eyes, those | sense of smell at all, while tHe cats meeement of his head is so slight as home they took their elk hounds out imuch more like wolves than dogs. The Exception. out and placed before a quartz spec-|of man and the actual spectrum of |of various kinds are aided by this imperceptible. Let us try it for Stolen. on hunting trips. Elk hounds are|They seldom bark, but have a weird | Jack—Take my advice and mind |trometer, an instrument for measuring | light. valuable sense, which is developed te P wonderful dogs for the hunt. It i8|sort of howl. They are incurable your own affairs. No man ever got|theé spectrum of light radiation. A| The second band shows the record a high degree. The human being de : D siayen You ought to see.Russell take the | said that they can catch the scent |thieves. It is a rare Eskimo dog that | rich fighting other people’s battles. small portion at the back of the vari-|that was made when the human eye|pends upon his brain power for cap Don’t Be Discouraged. hurdle L. |Of an elk or bear three miles away. |isn't always up to sly tricks and| Jill—I don't know. How about a Ous eyves was cut away and a thin|was the subject of experiment, and it|turing his prey, but his ape ancestors Why, who told you he took them? And in the frozen north the ruling |looking for a chance to steal. But |lawyer? quartz plate was cemented over the|is the shortest of all, indicating that|it is believed, depknded largely on the dogs_are the samoyede and Eskimo |with all their bad traits they have opening in each. Quartz was used in-(man’s_eyes do not make use of the|sense of sight rather than on that o easy thing to do right off, but we breeds. These two dogs are much | wonderful endurance and will pull Si . Him U stead of glass because glass would | ultra-violet rays of light. The lion is|smell. They were not, however, noe wave to set our minds to it and re He—Say would you like to see|alike, both of them being part wolf. |sledges until they drop in the harness, napping Him Up. shut out the ultra-violet rays which | slightly better able to see at night|turnal in their habits. The food o Ive we ave going to. We will start | something swell? {The = samoyedes are small and'uncomplaining. Sam (viewing monkey in cage)—It's | might pass through the eve, while|than man is, according to the evidence | these apes was largely vegetable, the by plunging, kicking few yards to| She—You bet. not so wolfish. They are nearly A curious dog is the Russian apparent to me—— quartz does not. of the third line, while the bear is|part that wAs not consisting of smal iet siarted, coming in with the arm | He—Just drop these beans in water | always white and are believed to have | owtchar. (Isn't that a funny name?) | Wilma—Oh, really. I didn't know| First, a record of the spectrum of | still better equipped for night seeing|anfmals, and insects were not cap movement, and then turning the head | and watch thefie. WL, . +hat the _ lght was made by means of a tung- than the lion, The owl, & nncturna%tured at night. 10U | again to let the alr out through the 3 s what he o 5 s Ewing | e sndlakify & coupls: imorssam = was what he called a “coconut dodge." | nytg at him. But one day a kangaroo | Juan (Spanish): ifght at last. of the | strokes. T will be encugh for the =< But one day something happened |who was a good shot landed the tiger | Julian, Julius (Latin); soft haired. which put a stop to it. A tiger who |one between the eyes. Justin, Justus: (Lating: Justice. ! be able [#%ain. And again. In fact, we must - v Pe able [keep on trying until we are able to . Kay (English); rejolcing. o ‘the | continue ac the length of the Kenneth (Gaelic); leader. Autter e ! "1 wonder who is going to be the first ) S =, e ant. | POy or girl to succeed. I would like \ L ihment: | to know, but the only way I can is for care of The Star. If you expect a | reply to your letter, a stamped and self-addressed envelope must be in- t attempt. Then we will try it = = Karl (Swiss); God of the winds. FRANK-M WILLIm SOr -\\ \ve | Pool. and only practice will do that. S reathe | you to write me a letter about it, in closed. do o us have he in through the t again, igh the nose imes in sprint sw Transferred. Mother—Your face i very clean, but where did you get such dirty hands? forward they turn the | B slightly to the right, which brings it | Little Boy—Washing my face. out of water he big secret of left arm is e: We must not be discouraged if we not learn this gight away. It is not A Treat.