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THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, FEBRUARY 8, 1925—PART 5. « Milliners and Shoemak AT LEFT. EVENING WRAP OF YELLOW CREPE, HEAVILY EM- BROIDERED AND TRIMMED WITH BANDS AND TAILS OF FUR. AT RIGHT, WHITE LAWN RUFFLING USED TO TRIM A BLACK SILK FROCK. BY MARY F the small size of our hats leaves little room for trimming we make it up by using trimming of the millinery sort on our frocks. Ar- tificial flowers are no longer 4 thought of as merely “hat trimming.” They are used more lavishly on frocks now than on hats. True, there are flower-trimmed hats—with two gorgeous blossoms posed back to back at the peak of the crown, or with tiny blossoms, forget-me-nots and rose- buds covering the entire bonnet—but the wreaths and long sprays and more elaboraté flower trimmings are reserved for out frocks. Feather flowers are enjoying a de- clded vogue in France at the present time, where they are used for shoul- der decorations as well as for hats. Rather remarkable skill i{s displayed by the artificial flower makers in re- producing the blossoms that fashion has decided are most smart. The morning glory, which you may prefer to call the convolvulus, has for some time been neglected in American gar- dens, but it has now been revived on frocks and hats— thanks to Poiret, who has found its fragile blossoms and delicate rose and blue tones quite to his taste. MARSHALL. v A few seasons ago the flowers most often reproduced were those showing an orange note, The capucine or nas- turtium suited the taste of fashion, and pot marigolds and zinnias when they showed orange tones were much in demand. Now the flowers that fa- vor the rose and blue tones are hav- ing their day—the morning glory, the sweet pea, the lilac, wistarias, orchids, wild roses and primroses. Hydrangeas, both of the blue and pink varieties, are regarded with favor. The rose still seems to lead in fa- vor, however. * K ¥ % IX months ago word was passed along that ostrich trimming for frocks had had its day. To be sure, there were countless frocks gaily trimmed with the plumage of the king of birds, but there was a feeling that smart women would soon tire of it The foreboding, however, was a false one. At present ostrich is one of the smartest of dress trimmings. The im- portant thing is that it is now used in a dozen ways instead of one or two. Ostrich is now combined with flow- ers In a charming manner—flues of the feathers being worked in with the petals of roses in a way which if WHERE FRINGE IS USED EFFECTIVELY. THE FROCK IS OF BEIGE CREPE, AND THE FRINGE IS OF BRIGHT BLUE. not true to nature is at any rate very pleasing. For an cvening frock you may select a large rose backed with ostrich flues, while hanging from the rose as silver stems with tiny rose- buds and Iittle tufts of ostrich. Often the ostrich trimming is used in ombre effect, and often in two- tone effect. Curled ostrich is some- times combined effectively with the uncurled sort. Ostrich used on hems and borders is as smart as it {s popu- lar and is found on negliges as well as_evening frocks. The ostrich boa, revived a season ago, is chosen by some women as a rather unusual evening accessory, and is most effective when worn with a frock trimmed in some way with ostrich of the same tone. Rather newer than the ostrich boa is the fabric scarf edged with ostrich fringe. Sometimes this scarf is actu- ally attached to the frock at the back or the side, made of the same fabric as the frock. Long ostrich fringe is set in a smart frock In points and the scarf worn with it shows ostrich fringe at the ends at- tached in the same point shapes. Silken fringe vies with that of ostrich as a trimming. Frequently this new fringe is as light and wil- lowly as ostrich, since good taste has somewhat veered away from the ex- tremely heavy “slinky” sort. Not only have the dressmakers made inroads on the milliners’ sup- plies—they have borrowed from the | shoemakers as well, and a woman's frock now quite often carries more | kid than her shoes. The brightly col- ored kid which didn't meet with the approval here that it did abroad as a material for shoes makes really charming dress trimming. Tiny folds of fine kid in different colors are cleverly embroidered together with silver threads. On many of the smartest street frocks and ensemble costumes for the Spring there will be neat pipings and facings of leather. A narrow leather belt will be worn with a straight-line tailored frock with slit pockets piped | with fine leather. One of the most originai ways of using leather as a dress garniture is | by way of a spectacle case. A French dressmaker has shown smart street cloth frocks trimmed with leather, with a leather spectacle case on a silken cord slung over one shoulder. It is only the older fashioned woman who takes to lorgnettes. The up-to- date woman, when she needs the aid of the oculist, has spectacles which she wears when needed—carrying | them betimes in a case that is truly ornamental. *ok x * | QTILL pledged to the straight, per- pendicular silhouette, the French dressmakers frequently make use of S PR g s Ag N AN O3 {3 A SO . [ { -~ EVENING GOWN OF FLESH-COL- ORED GEORGETTE TRIMMED ‘WITH EMBROIDERY OF RHINE- STONES, PEARL AND CRYSTAL. ribbon to achieve this end. Now as always they lead the way In the clever @ise of ribbon. A young girl's frock of black taffeta wtih gathered rt attached straight, * snug bodice, has a tie of narrow silver rib- bon at the front of the collar—small loops and ends hanging a trifie longer than the hem. This is a simple de- vice ‘to give apparent length and straightness to the frock. A few yards of silver ribbon form one of these long “neck ties” with enough over to wear around the head in a double bandeau. Another lengthening device for the simple little frock is the use of three or four lengths of ribbon from neck- line to hem. These may be attached as far as the hips and hang loose thence to the hem. Narrow ribbo: hanging from the shoulder, there at- tached with a rose or other flower, form a simple and effective trimming device. Ruchings and loopings of ribbon are seen on some of the new frocks | THE USE OF FLOWERS FOR TRIMMING. THIS IS AN IN- TERFSTING ARRANGEMENT OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. A BIG FLOWER IS PLACED AT THE HIP AND PETALS ARE SCATTERED IN ROWS ON THE SKIRT. ers Are Robbed to Trim the Latest Frocks and sometimes small tabs, bows or rosettes adorn light, thin frocks for afternoon or evening. Fashionable women of the day, like all savages and most children, seem to have a penchant for beads, and no new offering in the way of trimming seems to take their plate. There is no abatement in our fondness for wearing strings of beads around our necks and there are as many women as ever who feel best dressed when wearing a beaded frock. Fortunate- ly, however, we are getting away from the cheap beaded blouse, We seldom see a woman in tailored tweed suit wearing a beaded blouse, and the woman who works for her living seems to have come to the conclusfon at last that a beaded georgette frock is not quite the thing to wear to office sor shop. the straight-line, rather gorgeous evening frock, and as much Interest lies in the intricacy and fineness of the de- sign as in the glitter of the beads. Often the beads are of the smallest, thus making possible the following out of the most complicated figures. Nothing is more charming than a flesh-colored georgette frock em- broidered all over with pearls and crystals. Needless to say any addi- tional trimming is out of place. (Coprright.) Beads are at their best on He Won. Dubb—I've lived on vegetables for two weeks. Rubb—That's nothing. on earth for 12 vears, T've lived Things Which Are of Interest to Younger Yarns of the Big Woods. BY ART CHILDS. (Up in the great lonesome woods of the North the old guides have made up many varns which they tell over and over to the tenderfeet from the cities—their own way of explaining the strange tracks and weird nolises. Mr. Childs, who used to be a game warden in the woods of northern Wisconsin, collected these stories himself from the “oldtimers.”) A strange noise through the tall pines in the Big Woods! A sort of sighing that grows into a wail and dies away. If it is dusk the new- comer to the woods draws a little closer to the cheerful fire. All about him is a wall of shadowy trees. §Y/OU promised to tell me how fishermen catch lobsters,” re- minded Ted, whose grandfather, Cap'n White, an old sailor and fisherman, was visiting at his house. “That's right, 1 did ishing for lobsters, though, is more like trap- ping than fishing. It's about the safest branch of fishing, for the lobsterman doesn’t run any danger of being caught far out at sea in a thick fog or when a gale is blowing its head off. No, it isn’t what you'd call exciting, but it's mighty interesting.” Td like to hear how they trap them,” coaxed Ted. “Some of the lobstermen make their own traps, but nowadays most of them buy them. These traps are sort of cages made of wood, the frame being close enough together so the lobsters can’t squeeze through once they're in. There are round openings at the top through which the lobsters crawl in. are set near the shore th crabs or fish heads which are tied in bunches to the floor of the trap. The lobsters, led on by this balt, crawl through tiie openings. Instinct makes them keep to the bot- tom all the time, so they never find thelr way out through the holes above them. “The lobstermen use motorboats to go from trap to trap. KEach lobster- man_runs a string or gang of traps, numbering from 25 to 100. It means a lot of work to bait, haul and set these every day. The usual day's 'lu.ul Teas eomething like six to “Funny noise the wind makes through the trees,” he says. “Wind nothing!” snorts the Old- timer. “That just shows you don’t know a thing about these woods. Why, everybody around here knows that's the noise made by the accor- dianteater.” “The accordianteater!” Sure. It isn't likely you'll get sight of him while you're up here, as he keeps himself hidden in the dark, shady places. Sometimes you can hear him in the daytime, but mostly he’s out at night. He makes that queer, wailing noise with his body, which is bullt just like an ac- cordian, and he just pulls himself out and squeezes himself up. Listen! There he goes again!” Lobster Trapping Methods. twelve lobsters. “After Labor day, when the New England coast vacation season nearly ended, many fishermen take up theiy traps and follow some other business. The hardier ones fish right up to bitter cold weather. The life is harder, for the weather is bad and the traps are put out in deep water where the lobsters crawl to keep warm, These late-working lobster- men make more money, though, for they may get 20 to 30 lobsters a day, and they receive better prices for them in Winter, too. “The best lobstering grounds are along the Maine coast.” Answer to Yesterday’s Puzzle. [oT>[v] £ EEHE [£[m[z]>] Z[0] im[0] [Sz[m[= il o]n[w[w][n[o]+][4] is| Across. . Most desirable. . Placed. . Impartial. . Roman welght . Third vowel of Greek alphabet. . Garden implement. . Accordingly. . Periodical. . Large body of water. . Exlamation. . You and I . Limit. . Hail! . Part of to be. . In past time. . Fetches. . To go gack. Last resting places. Legislative body. Consumed. . Small child. . Native metal. Definite article. . Comparative suffix. . Sun god. . Lick up. . Singly. . That thing. . Sheltered side. . Very small. . Suffix used in names of countries. . Exchanged for money. . It is. 58. A shelter. —_— Failed. Doctor—What? Your dyspepsia is no better? Did you follow my advice and drink hot water one hour before breakfast? Patient—I did my best, but couldn't keep it up for more than 10 minutes. Objected. Stage Manager—All right now, run up the curtain. Stage Hand—Say, what do Yyou think I am—a squirrel? CELEEE L Sounded Familiar ‘Waitress—Order, please. Student—Whazza matter? I ain't makin’ any noise. PUZZLE NO. 1. Down. . Hinders. Plural suffix. Small mound. Ottoman officials. That which causes melting. Payment for professional service. Part of to be. Open way for public passage. . Number. . Open (poetic). . Journeys by ship. . At stated interv: . Sense organ. . Likewise not. . Prefix meaning in. . Close to. . Large. To turn to the right from the driver. . Female sheep. . Born (French). . A cheer. . Brother of Odin. Thoroughfare. 36. Dried stalks. . Negative. . Afternoon repast. . Demonstrative, indicating some- thing near. . Night before. . Beverage. Fuel. 0Old times (poetic). . Allow. Preposition. ‘Within, e ~ Out of Luck. Our idea of hard luck is when a cafeteria helper works for his meal and then loses his appetite. A2 AP L 52. 55. Mixed. Elwin (telling of hunting trip)— I shot at a squirrel and missed him, then I shot again and hit him in the same place. - Apt. Teacher—What three kinds of roses are there in Africa? Student—White rose, red rose and the negroes, PUZZLE NO. 2. Across. Down. . Put off till a future time. 1. The methods of a profession. . A great ancient empire. 2. Wander. ~ . Italian river. 3. Leave out. ' . Band around a shield (used in 4. Grant. heraldry). 5. The sacred bull worshiped by 17. A famous Roman poet. Egyptians. 18. Bar of metal. 6. Trigonometric function. 19. Follower of Hindu philosophy. 7. Members of one of the largest 20. A holiday. tribes of the Philippines. 21. Burns. 8. Man’'s name. 22. An unsuspected impediment. 9. Skeins. 23. Joins with stitches. 10. Playthings. 27. Leader of the Israelites. 11. A useful metal. 31. Flat stone. 12. Woman’'s name (Russian). 34. Make a sharp sound of percus-| 13. Friendly relations (English sion. spelling). 35. Abraham’s birthplace. . Feeling of listless weariness. 36. Eleven (Roman). Middle part of the body. 37. Prefix meaning air. Definite localities. Midshipmen (abbr.). Takes for a wrong use. Of Course. Johnnie—For what leather used? Jimmie—For trunks. SEE L Helped. save our timber? 38. Occipital protuberances on the Melody. exterior of the skull. 28. Conjunction. 39. The great city of Kubla Khan.| 29. Prefix meaning out of. (Mentioned in Coleridge's poem | 30. Three score. is elephant Are you making some valentines of your own? Here are a few ideas for Verses to print on them. Maybe one of these will be the very thought you're looking for: For Mother. Will you be my valentine Once again, dear mother mine? My best girl you'll always be: Accept this valentine from me. To *Most Any One. I've thought and thought The whole day through Of something nice To say to you— Something pretty, something new. T'd like to phrase Some sentence fine— Yet here I send The same old line: on't you be my A Lucky Day. “I—TI'll never get up nerve enough to give it to her,” thought Cedric as he looked at the lovely satin and lace paper valentine he had bought for May Loulse, quite the prettiest and most popular girl in the neigh- borhood. After thinking it over he decided not to put his name, or even his ini- tials, on the one he had bought for May Louise. He was entirely too bashful to let her know he was giv- ing her a valentine. Why, she hardly even knew who he was. He had not lived in the neighborhood very long. Cedric hurried along the street until he came to the little cottage in which May Louise lived. He ran up on the steps as lightly as he could, thrust his lovely valentine in the mail box and ran down the steps and up the street as though ghosts were after him. He wasn't sure, but somehow he felt that some one had looked out ‘the window as he ran down the steps. He was early for school, £0 he hung around in front of the building wait- ing for his friend Harry to come along. “Oh, Cedric!” some one called to him. “I think you're the dearest dear. I take back all the mean things I said to_you when we had our last scrap. Even if you didn’t have your name on the valentine I recognized Ellen's monogram stamp on the seal- Ing’ wax.” Cedric looked dazedly at his cousin Esther. “That was the prettiest one I've got 50 far,” she said, “and I got several. 1 just love that pretty pink satin center with the flowers painted on i ‘Cedrfc managed to mumble “some- thing and went into the schoolhouse, heart-sick. How terrible to have made a mistake and wasted that lovely valentine on Esther! At least, he was relieved when he remembered he hadn't put his name on any of the valentines, and May Louise wouldn't recognize his sister's seal. He was standing looking gloomily out ‘of a window in the hall just entine?" of that name.) 31. More sensible. 40. Throw out. 32. Depart-from. 41. Provided that. 33, Genus including herons. 43. Preposition denoting place where.| 42. Note of a scale. 44, Always. 43. Collegiate degree (abbr.). 45. Small insects. 47. A Spanish.dance. 46. A cab driver (colloguial). 50. Prefix meaning against. 48. Actually existing. 51. Freezes. 43. Den of & wild beas 52. The -seventh incarnation of 63. Compounds produced by treating Vishnu. metals with acids. 63. Coarse hulled Indian torn. 1 57. A grain. 54. Wing shaped. 60. Indian of Peru, before the Span-| 55. To move lightly and rhythmical- : _ish conquest. 1y. 5 - ‘Wide awake. 56. Heavenly body. A wood instrument. 57. Lethargy, . Stalk of a flower. 58. Record of a death (abbr.). . Itallan form of Mary. 59. Was transported. ———— “What are the five senses.” “Nickels.” . —_— Wanted—Boy to deliver ' groceries 16 years old. e T}ns sign is displayed in a promi- 4 nent place in a general store in Lecturer—What have you done to| West Virginia: “Man js made of dust. Dust Student—I shot a woodpecker once. tles. Are you a man?”’ Dbefore the class bell rang, when some one tapped him lightly on the shoul- der. Ho turned, to his horror, to face May Louise. “Oh, Cedric,” bubbled May Louise, her eyes dancing, “I think you're the funniest thing. You needn’'t act in- nocent. -1 saw you put that valentine in my box and I went out and got it just after you left.” Cedric was nearly purple with em- barrassmeht, but May Louiss went “That was an awfully clever valentine, Cedric, even if it was a teasing one. I get 50 sick of all these silly lace paper ones with hearts and doves on ‘em. I don't Readers The Valentine Verse You Might Use For a Girl. I'd like to give you candy, But I haven't got a cent; I'd like to send vou flowers— But my clothes I'd have torent; Some day, when I make money, Such things I'll buy, you'll see, So won't you be contented With this valentine from me? From a Radio Fan. Broadcasting by station ME! If my valentine you'll be, Tell you what I'm going to do— Get a headset made for two. A Teasing Onme. Roses are red, Violets are blue, Shamrocks are green, But so aren’t you! Indian Tops. Recently I was talking with my old friend, Joe Rising-Tide, a_Penobscot Indian who lives near Kennebunk port, Me. I asked him whether In- dian, boys ever used tops and, If so, vhat kind. “Yes,” he assured me, “Indian boss play with tops that they make for themselves. These tops are called ‘toweigans.’ Come over to my shack and T'll show vou a couple of the and if there aren't any around I' make two or three for you.” T went around that night and he made the three kinds of tops shown in the illustration. Number 1 is a simple block of good whittled down as shown. It is not spun with a string, but with a whip in the illustration). You just whip it into action and keep it spinning as long as you wish to. Only it takes skill to do it. Numbers 2 and 3 are both spun with a string, with the ald of the devices shown. Number 2 spins on = fong point, with its body on top of fts stem. Number 3 has its stem at tn top and also has holes burred in it s that it will sing and hum as it spiry CAP'N ZYB. «THB following report” says a telephone manager, “was sent by = subordinate inspector to his chief in the telephone service. It concerned a faulty house connaction: “‘Found wire with no outside out- side. Put Inside wire outside and outside Inside. Need more outside for inside.’ know another boy In school that would have had the nerve to send me a valentine like that.” She tossed her curls, laughing. ! Just then the bell rang. “You go by my house on your way home from school, don’t you?” added May Louise, on Tiptoa to go. “Why dan’: you wait cround for me some time aftec scheel?” 4