Evening Star Newspaper, August 17, 1924, Page 63

BY MARY MARSHALL. RENCH milliners have large vocabularies, and the only time they call a hat a chapeau is when they can’t think of any- thing else to call it. Instead Rhey talk of capelines, cloches, toques, tricones, quatrecornes, berettas, bole- Tos, postillions, girondins, casques, turbans, canotiers and sombreros. XEvery season there are new names; every season some of the old names are scrapped, and others, out of favor for a few seasons, are revived again. Spanish names are strong”in their appeal to the milliners this season. ‘There is the very wide-brimmed saflor, sometimes merely spoken of as a Spanish sailor and sometimes as a sombrero sailor, that has been worn by smart women in France ever since the Grand Prix ball there, when it appeared as part of the pic- turesque Spanish costumery of the masqueraders. A hat much better suited for Au- tumn and ever for Winter is the bolero sailor, also Spanish in origin. The bolero, one of the most interests ing of native Spanish dances, which, ‘with the aid of castanets and spoken words, attempts to represent the course of love from extreme shyness to extreme passion, has at various times given its name to many an article of women's attire. Anything than in any way suggested the cos- tumery of the Spanish dancer as she danced this passionate dance became & bolero, whether it was a little sleeveless jacket or the trim little hat that has come into the spotlight of fashion at the present time. There are slight variations in the bolero, but always it has a rather small.’ slightly rounded crown with a distinctly upturned brim. It is at its best when trimmed very simply. The conventional pompon is well chosen—two of them placed at one side. Vasselin Villetard of Paris has trimmed one of her boleros with scarab wings, two at each side. ‘The Spanish mode of draping the mantilla has given inspiration to several of the French designers. One from Mme. Suzy that has been called the “duenna” consists of a toque of black relt that riees high in a Span- ish comb. Chantilly lace is draped around the toque, hanging at the sides like a mantilla, while Empire green ribbon stretches across the back with & little flat bow at either side. Suzanne Talbot has taken the Span- ish mantilla as the point of departure in an evening headdress. A close-fit- ting turban is draped with a chiffon scarf so arranged that it can be crossed in the back with the ends falling like a mantilla at the sides. It is embrofdered in mother-of-pearl and metallic threads. * & ok ¥ HIE rulers of Xngland and of France have apparently con- tributed their share to the hat shapes #nd hat names chosen for autumn. There is a Tudor turban—round. close fitting—that might have been named after Mary Tudor, the Bloody Mary of English history, or after the other Mary Tudor who was a sister of Henry VIII, and was first married to the French King Louls XII and later to her beloved Charles Brandon. Motion picture enthusiasts and de- vourers of romantic fiction have be- come rather well acquainted with Things Louise’s Dog “Look, daddy, what I brought home. Isn't he the cutest thing you ever saw? He looks intelligent, too. I'm sure you can train him into the show.” Louise held up a furry little black dog. “I just tound him.” Her father emiled. He tould do most anything for hi® motheriess little girl, especially as they were separated 80 much while she was be- ing sent away to school and he was working with his dog show. 1n the Summer the show Was part of & cir- cus and in the Winter he took it out in vaudeville. Louise thought her father's trained-dog show was the most wonderful thing she had ever seen. Mer father was at home_ now, working up a new act. Loutse helped her Aunt Sarzh keep house for him, but she spent most of her time watching him while he put his dogs through their !rlck! and planned new ones. “I a0 need an extra dog,” her father smiled at her. “This fellow is a little young, and you must ad- mit he’s not particularly handsome, but he does look Intelligent, and per- BERETTA 1S SHOWN PURPLE. WITH VELVET BROIDERY. ABOVE IS ONE OF THE GABY TOQUES, SO NAMED H)R ITS JAUNTY: BOW. THE NDIN APE, AS CON. l\ ED BY LEWIS, IS TRIMMED WITH A BOW CAUGHT INTO A BUCKLE SLIDE OF PIERCED SILVER. both these ladies within recent years, and it is possible that a bonnet or hat worn by the cinema reincarna- tion of one of these Tudor heroines Which Made a Hit. haps I can work him in. You had better take him in hand first. See it you can teach him to tumble.” Sure enough, the new dog seem- ed to be picking things up, so her father decided to try him with the regular act. The result was ut- ter failure. The funny looking dog simply couldn't work with others, no matter how he was coaxed and directed. He would run in the op- posite direction when they jumped through loops. He turned somer- saults backward instead of forward. Loufse was in tears. She had taken such a fancy to the dog and so want- ed him to be in the new show. “I_guess we’ll have to get rid of him.” her father sald. and Loutse agreed sudly that he was right. The next day., however, she came running up to her father with shin- ing eyes. “Father,” she exclaimed, “I've been thinking something. ite- member how we just had to laugh yesterday at that new dog, Blackie, the way he got mixed up and fell ail over himself and whenever he was brought into a stunt always did something awfully funny and awk- ward? Well, don't you think other people would laugh, too? He's so funny looking to begin with!” Her father looked puzzled. dont quite get your idea.” “Wait until this afternoon when you put them through the act again. 1 have a surprise for you.” When afternoon came, and the dogs were ready for the show, Blackie was missing. A few minutes later Louise came up with him— dressed in a funny little clown suit with a big ruff, which she had made herself. “Now watch!” And they botn laughed themselves nearly sick watching Blackie go through all the tricks wrong in his solemn, blunder- ing way. And that is8 how Louise lays claim to inventing the act that b was the hit of her father's show that ‘Winter. “I See” Is a Restful Game. “ see’ is a fine, quiet game to play at your Summer party after every one is out of breath from running around playing hide and seek or other chasing games. The players form a line and the leader goes to each one and whis- pars some movement he is to make ‘when the proper signal is given. The leader might say to.one, for in- “Kick your right foot back- to ther, “move your fingers to another, “tap with your left heel”; to another, “turn your head from side to side,” and to another, “nod your head up. and down.” After all the directions have been given, the leader stands in front of the line holding up a handerchiet and the game is ready to begin. Every one watches the leader closely. As_ soon as the leader drops the handkerchief, all the piayers start doing what they were directed by the leader to do. If any one forgets, A Handicap. oWell, well, lost your job as a caddy?” 2 “Yes,” sald he. “I could do the work all right, but I couldn’t learn @ot to laugh. Seme g How Changed! Tramp—Madam, I was not always thus. Madam—No, it was your other arm you had in the sling yesterday. —_——— ‘Why Should He? Music Teacher—Why don't you pause there? Don't yon see it's marked ‘rest’?” Pupil—Yes, but I'm not zlnd‘ he is put out of the game. Then, af- ter a minute or so, the leader picks up the handkerchief and calls, “Change!” This time every one does what the player to his right has been doing, the one on the end of the line imitating the one at the head. 1t any one does not change at once, the leader calls his name, and he is out of the game. The leader may then drop the handkerchief again, and the ones in the line start doing the movement they did in the first place. Of course, as people are dropped from the game and the line becomes shorter, it is harder to watch for the signals, keep your own motions going, and see what the neighbor on the right is doing. As the game continues, the leader ghould give the signals closer to- gether. The last player to go out of the game is the winner, and must in- deed have been wideawake. He Knew Swiss He—What kind of material is that dréss made of? . She—Dotted swiss, He—Why, suge. course. Saved Him From Figuring. Customer—You don’t seem so quick at figures, my boy. Newsy—No, boss. Most of the men say, “Keep the change.” Pretty Well Filled. Cheesecloth, of Teacher—Every time you fail to|’ recite I put a cross after youf name. inspired the milliner who designed and named the Tudor turban. Butone merely has to speculate. Unfortunately there are no explanatory notes a Are One Stormy Night. T was & stormy night with rain coming down in torrents. Jimmy, the hotel clerk, was finding it hard to keep awake, since business was not flourishing. At 11 o’clock he was almost dozing off when & pinched little man, of perhaps fifty, came stamping in, registering for a room, and in a high voice said: “Now, I got to ketch a train at 3 a.m., young feller. Kin I trust you to call me in time fer it?” Jimmy assured him that he could and wrote it down on the pad. Then for an hour or,inore the lobby was empty and Jimmy soon fell fast asleep. He awoke with a start. He looked at the clock. Ten minutes to 3! Like lightning he bounded to the board and rang the man's room. ‘A sleepy voice soon answered. “It's ten minutes to 3" Jim- my shouted into the telephone. “Get down ‘here as fast as you can. I'll have a taxi waliting!” Jimmy called the taxi station and urged upon them the necessity of having a car there immediately. In less than three minutes the lights of one shot through the rain. At about the same moment the little man stumbled down the stairs. Time was too precious to spend any of it con- demning Jimmy, so the traveler thrust some bills across the counter and bolted out in the storm, shout- ing to the driver of the taxi, “Fgst as you can go!” The car was off instantly. Jimmy had time® to sit down and ponder. “Five minutes to buy a ticket and make it,” thought he. “Gee, if the old guy doesn’t make it and comes back, I'm gone!” he mused. “And 1 doubt if he could get there. Only five minutes—" The door opened and a gust of|ernm rain blew in. With it came the little old man. Jimmy staggered forwsrd. “You missed 1t?” he asked tremu- lously. “Missed it!” hissed the angry man. “It's four hours late!" Naturally. Irate doctor (shoving up the win- dow ,to see who is causing all the rapping on door)—Well? Volce (from below)—No, sir; stel, tached to the linings of the new hats. Once named, further explanations seem unnecessary. There is a Francois I beretta among the new French shapes—quite obvi- ously inspired by one of the numerous portraits of that ambitious and gal- lant monarch. The Louis XVI hat has been mentioned this summer, wide-brimmed and turned up at the back, such as kings and courtiers usually wore in the late eighteenth century, For Henry 1II of France is named 2 neat, rather high-crowned, narrow-brimmed model, rolled up at the left and often trimmed at the right by some sort of drooping touffe. And 80 it goes—in the course of years at this rate all of the rulers of the old French monarchy will have been honored by the busy milliners of Paris. But the French ruler whose name is oftenest on the tongues of the milliners is Napoleon. If he had never done anything but*wear that famous cocked hat of his he would have de- served immortality. No other hat is quite so famous. It would be inter- esting to make a list of the celebrated men and women whose names are clogely associated with the hats they: wore. Perhaps Mary Stuart would come a close second to the Little Cor- poral in this respect. Both seem to have had a flair for millinery, both knew how to wear & hat! But to return to the Napoleon hat of this season. Probably not one mil- liner out of ten—even of the well known ones—could give you a really definite description or sketch of the poleonic hat, vet they talk glibly of the Napoleonic tricorne and the Nawoleonic effect. All that seems nec- essary to know is that the Napoleonic hat was cocked so that ft went stright up in front, two horns of the tricorne coming down rather low at the side. Then there is the Plerrette tricorne—by which is usually meant a hat with sides cocked so that one point or horn comes at the front and one at either side. The front horn, however, is often rounded so as not to form a real point. In the same group with the tri- cornes and the marquises are the quatracornes—which is just another way of saying what some less exact milliners would call a four-cornered tricorne. I F course, Napoleon himself was the most outstanding man of the directoire and empire perlod in French history, and of course the hats that he wore during those peri- ods were primarily directoire or em- pire. Eut in millinery lingo a Na- poleonic hat is one thing and a directoire hat is another thing. Generally speaking, the directoire shape has a fairly narrow, high crown with a comparatively narrow brim. It may taper in toward the top, or it may curve slightly outward. There arc good historical precedents for either form. Sometimes the brim curves up slightly at either side and sometimes distinctly at one side. One of these directoire shapes is called the postillion and another the girodin shape. The difference is not always apparent. Then there are demi-pos- tillions, undoubtedly a development of the present time, with a shape like the historic prototype, but lacking a brim at one side. The beretta is a shape that appar- ently owed nothing either to Spain of Written and illustrated by Edward MeCandlish, ¢ OMMY,” said Brother Jack Rabbit one afternoon, “what- ever become of our mutual ‘Gentleman friend, Jim* Muskrat? down anywheres from 50 to 76 dollara per annum!” Brother Jack gave a long whistle of astonishment. “Ain’t it awful,”” he said, “how some folks goes forgin' dhead, while d' rest of us stays right where we're at?” is, replied .:ll‘omm‘{x -;1 nu- 6 an me Just ain't ' dat & man needs to rise In dome days.” fel wmmm AUGUST 17, Pierrette Tricorne PIERRETTE TRICORNE OF HAT- TER'S PLUSH, WITH TRIMMING OF SILK FAILLE. or to the Napoleonic era. But it is spoken of enthusiastically by many, and it is likely to_become one of the leading successors’ of the cloche among younger women who follow the fashion. It, too, has an Interesting history. Its prototype was a round, flat woolen cap worn by the Basque peasantry in France. The informal slouch cap worn by French artists was modeled on this. To begin with, they were doubtless real Basque caps. Tt is from the artists’ beretta or berot that the shape spoken of by present-day milliners is taken. Some subtle dis- tinction may exist between the beret and the beretta in their minds, but it is not worth considering. This Basque peasant beretta is not to be confused with tie clerical bi- retta, which indeed did take its name from the same Latin root. The bi- retta, you know, Is worn by clerics in the Catholic Church —bfack for priests, purple for bishops and red for cardinals. This might, of course, give inspiration for women's head- gear: but for the present it is the beretta or beret, not the biretta. The Phrygian hat is also spoken of, and this goex back for inspiratipn almost as far as the Egyptian cas- pues that were worn a season or so ago. The original of this is described as a “conical cap or bonnet with a peak bent or turned over in front.” It was worn by Phryglan peasants centuries before christ. For some reason or other whenever a Roman slave was given his freedom part of the ceremony consisted of putting one of these simple caps on his head. Hence it was that the Phrygian cap became symbolical of liberty. The Goddess of Liberty, whether she presides over the destinies of the French Republic or graces the face of an American 50-cent plece. wears one of these Phrygian caps. But she sat for her profile apparently before women began to wear their hats over their foreheads, so her Phrygian hat appears to be slipping off the back of her head, while the smart French woman wears hers almost touching her nose. (Copyright, 1924.) Interest to Yflyunger After a while Brother Jack continued: “How come he to get his sta'ht?’ } “Well,” replied Tommy, unmm‘ fully bit off a piece of tobacco; “se like @' -boy first applied to his. leamn Representative, and he gives-him a let- tah-settin’ fo'th his many high qualities; habits of sobriety, an’ so. fo'th—which | work. | @’ Lawd only knows ain’t nevah been & habit with_‘Gentleman Jim.’ “But Jim goes up an’ presents his ‘which is & kllfl of l Gov- ernment slang for. @ head executioner, who. glances n @ letter- heading an’ axes Jim a fsw pussonal questions. Such' as: ‘In what precinct does you do yo' wvotin’?,” and “Was he & married man—or muskrat, and it not, Why not. And if so, how much?" , “Dese questions bein' answered satis- factory, d' next question arose: Where lhoula ‘@ applicant work at. " 9 “D’ applicant claims he done studled % ' apples in d' wheat and he fllls out & 1924—PART 5. / &PoLeonle Tricorne THE BLACK VELVET BERETTA 1S TRIMMED WITH BROWN FAILLE RIBBON. LIKEWISE THE NAPO. LEONIC TRICORNE FROM SUZANNE TALBOT IS BLAC Her Precious Lawn. One by one the old houses in what had once been a beautiful residence section had been torn down and in their places had sprung up the build- ings of a manufacturing district. Old Mrs. Bascom was the only one on the street who had clung onto the fam- {ly homestead, with its spacious green lawn. From the windows of her old- fashioned house, set far back from the street, she looked with disapprov- al on the new overall factory which occupled the location next to her. One day a group of girls from the factory came over at the noon hour and began playing base ball on the back end of Mrs. Bascom's big lawn. They played for half an hour or more; shouting and running from one tree to the next as they batted the ball, till the poor old lady was in a fury. They were wearing out her carefully planted grass! ‘When they had gone back to work Mrs. Bascom stalked over to the fac- toty, wrath"in her eve, and asked for’the manager. ‘She had to wait for him in & room where the girls were bending over their machines. ' She dldn’t like it, because the air was foul. She wondered how the girls could stand it to sit there sewing un- def the' poor- light. ' So young tRey ‘were, too, most of them. The manager opened the door und eame forward. Mrs. Bascom took one last look at the girls confined to their “I want to extend the usé of my yard to the girls who play ball,” said she to the man. “They—-they seem to be so cramped here. I know 1t must be good for them to get fresh ir at their lunch hour.” fied,’ his color as ‘light cnamon, vergin' on & sober gray’ and his occu- pation as ‘expert pack saddler’ and his ago as ‘usbeknownat.’ “19 chief executioner looks over &' blank, an’ allows dat d' patient's back- ground done amply qualified him to hold a job.ag & deckhand on @ -m-m' .#And=dsh he is! Settin} pretty as T said befo, an’ a credit to imeete ‘and d’ country at large.” b “De you suppose” asked Brother .m:k. “d' Government might be needin’ ‘otgfl deckhand in &' finance depa't- “1t - depends,” np!lod Tommy. “You might file, yo' application an’ give ‘em time to-create & vacancy in yo' behall” atering place. 14—Penetrate. Wrath. w_lnu.md with anger. 15— Rowiocks. 22"A"Termented drik made from manna. Z—Necemary constituent. A Plvios Z—Let it stand. S8R 204 o S Reluer. 28_An ugly old woman. 30—Propeller. 31—Ament. $9_Enthralls. 90—Inverter. 1—Original. 2—A mounting by ladders. 39—Ready to act. 41—To be frugal. 43=Shalter. M—suaaen outbarst. S Smail satamander. So—ltlian coin. 2—A _size of writing paper. e g pape: 36—Part in harmon BT—Letter of Greek uiphavet. 3—Hastened. 4—A color. S—Chenoj 21— upplicate. Ouight to Perform. “Are you the' trained nurse m ma sald was coming?" asked 4-year- old Bobby. “Yes, I'm the tramed nurse,” she answered him smilins. “Let's see some of your tricks’” sald he. Not for Him. Senior—Say, kid, lend me a dollar and Tl be indebted to you for life. Frosh—Beat it. That's just what T'm afraid of. : - High Finance. Teacher—Give an example of 'un- productive spending of wealth, - Young Man—Taking your sister to a show. = Most Useful. Teacher—What is the most promi- nent woman's club in’America? Pupil—The rolling pin. “Although unable to make the ac- quaintance of a young lady I met in a revolving door, I .began going around with hep” VERTICAL. 5—Palmate birds. #—Boundaries. 7—A gaseous element. ceous 1.¢1 . 9—Wiro measuring uuit. 10—Cupid. H—Arehitectural. rved. 20—Gather 4 harvest. ew Zealand pa: —Excited, agitated. Readers 24—Fdge of a roof. 28—Class of mollusks. Pronoun. 3—Reverage, 34—Unit of energy. 86—_Demonstrative pronoun. 39_Lawful. 39—Perfume of the damask Setiike fabric. e nape of the neck. o be obliged for. 87—Subdlvision of 88 _—Spanixh chief. The octate above the treble staff. 57—Strawberry ’ blondes. SS—Instrament for measuring s . indicating juxtapo- o romatic smoke. ote of diatonic_scale. (6—&candinavian “narrative. Va Pechical estity. clare positively. 81—Agitate. 83—Pasture, 83—Chill. Answer to crossword puzze in- last Sunday’s Star. EEEE [YIEIN] IIIIIE ES QRNNRENE \- IATERRIETMINTAIN T lflglfl [B[olS] He Proved It. John and Harry were lying down sunning themselves one Spring day. A farmer approaching said, “I'il gV the laziest of You fellows a dollar. John—*“I'm the laziest person in the world.” Harry (yawning and never raising an eyelid), said, “Just.slip her in my ocket.”