Evening Star Newspaper, July 31, 1924, Page 43

: WOMAN'S PAGE,” Beauty and Charm in Summer Styles in Washington Shops This Year Milady Has No Dread of Summer Clothes., Artist Finds More Appeal in Warm Weather Frocks and Other Finery and Frills for Women in the Local Stores Than “Ever Before. BY PEGGY HEISS. HETHER onc's best foot is forward or not depends upon the manner in which it is shod. Clothes mean more to the average feminine human beiag than any other one thing. Y ere is the woman who has not ight a dress which has been most secoming and, realizing this, has tually worn it to be economical, ssual on rainy days, it is true, but with the riable result that meets her best beau or her noticing rival. « An expert in clothes can garb a passably good-looking country maid to deceive the multitude, and the combined effect of the costume, the mamicure, the marcel and the na 1y submerges the coun- try So far the temptation to “clothes make the woman” has heen resisted, but it may be suggest- ed that there is no better tonic in the world for drooping spirits, tooth- ache, stolen beau or any other gen- eral calamity than a ne and becom- ing hat A well dressed woman monument to her inv she ma a living are and at Crepe Gown, with bril- liantly colored motifs. thoughtfulness. She thorouzhly studicd herself and. rather than know- ‘ng what to select, she knows what ‘o avoid. The greatest difficulty lies n having the strength of character o pass resolutely by a bit of fluff f one be built more or less on_the nes of the late lamented Queen Vic- oria, and to be equally firm with ack, slinky models suitasle for Pola icgri and her following if onme's cight hovens near five feet two and here is a tendency to sit on one's oot when there is an overstuffed hair, a new magazine, some choco- ate almonds and no one else in the 1oom. Chocolates and Hot Weather. Chocolate almonds are horrible things to mention when, dealing with he mode of midsumpmer, for the wesses that the smart world has B Jresy Hat of black velvet, limed im pale green. taken to its sophisticated heart—in fact, the only dresses that one dares wear—are those slim, stralght and short. Always there are bouffant dresses for evening, and on slender young women of the medium height nothing could be pretgler; for the many others, it were well to treat them as scarlet fever or a magenta sunshade. French couturieres have heen introducing, at the beginning of each season, frocks of various Ihouettes, but the chemise dre; seems destined to go on forever. It is youthful, it is becoming, it can be “hanged by the change of material nd color; all of which may partly ount for the fact that it is uni- iy beloved. THE EVENING the hem of the skirt are particularly good, and they are best without the slightest suggestion of a breaking of the line at any of one's several ssible waist lines. Tuesday one's se frock may boast a narrow belt tied carelessly around the waist where the Venus de Milo intended that a waist should be. 'This fashion seems to have originated because one very attractive young woman's 1ow- tied belt slipped its moorings and | traveled up to that part of her figure where the curves go inward, where- upon her frien and rivals, mos the latter, upon Seeing her, were con- sumed with desire to look just like her, so they went around the nearest corner and elevated their own belts about four or five inches. The Varied Waist Line. There are sundry and divers per- sons, largely men and young men, a way of concealing deficiencies duc to over-indulgence in the good things of life. It is_dign: and the straight line achieved by it aids in the prescrvation of the aforemen- ticned imly simple effect. Women-— who have been independent enough to escape from that steel and whale- bone instrument of torture, the old- shioned corset; from huge, insani- tary structures of false hair on their heads; from long skirts and from dangerously high heels—are not apt to submit tamely, it is believed, to something which will be moderatel unbecoming_and moderately unc fortable. This, however, is but prediction, and is worti no more than predictions usually are All the best-bred skirts stop be- tween ten and twelve inches from tne floor. The sport skirts are twelve, and the strect and walking dresses, As for the waist line, it seems nat_one's own fickle fancy dictates he placing of the belt. Monday one nay be utterly beltless—these long sunicy--which-come—-within- & oot _of Orchid Evening Gown axd Dance Frock of White Tulle, Gardenia Trimmed. whe object to anything new, on prin- e, who dislike this clever move, but the worst of it is that the girie continue serenely on their various ways, wearing their string belts around the waist, the slenderness ot which had ~been forgotten. 'They really look adorable—that 1ls, of course, the slim young women, and those not too tall. The long waist is kind to the girl who grew rapid- ly and a good bit while she was at it Isn't this another point in favor of the versatility of the chemise frock? Imagine wholesale altering of the be- ruffied and be-stiffened frocks of the debutante of 1904! In the spring there was a rather determined attempt on the part of enterprising designers to launch the directoire waist line. These same young women who retied their de- tachable belts with such enthusiasm purchased here and there day and evening models constructed in the di- rectoire manner, but the mode in no way became universal. That part of femininity to which clothes are of great interest—and doesn’t that embrace the entire civi- lized world and nearly all the un- civilized (we hesitate here and say “nearly all,” because we are a bit shaky about darkest Africa)—awaits its fate with more or less of a catch in its breath. Will womankind, all types of it, be beginning its skirts a little below its armpits? It is to be hoped._ . with most of the afternoon frocks, too, are tem, while evening gowns may go to any length they please, de- pending upon their type. These gen- eralizations, of course, apply to the gowns which are worn by the woman of ideal measurements. Despite re- duction by the caloric system, roll- ing the chubbiest portions of one’s anatomy with those knotted-looking things, inhumanly tiring exercise and Turkish baths, there are members of the dealier sex whose proportions are distinctly ample; also, it might be added, many of those women are ex- tremely attractive, which is a direct example of the triumph of mind over matter, mind being represented by realization of shortcomings, and intel- ligent choosing of attire to con- ceal deficiencies. ‘There are several well known and quite obvious rules of dressing which the woman who is not slender will do well to bear always in mind. The line that goes up and down the figure i8 her life line; the more of such lines the thinner her appearance. The hair should be brushed up, leaving a part of the ear showing: softly waved hair, with the knot arranged high or tucked under, is lovely. Any comb should point upward and not outward. Never should her hat be large with a drooping brim, nor should it be dis- tinctly small, as this has a tenden STAR, WASHINGT Beige Woolen Suit, Peach Fiat Crepe Frock, Maize Broad cloth Frock and Red-and-White Georgette for Sports Wear. the crown full, to balance the inevi- table full chin! Errors to Avold. The short neck should not be made to appear shorter by a large fur or ruffle or anything which interrupts the sloping of the line where the neck joins the shoulder. Long ropes of beads are best: they should not lie around the base of the throat—that wonld make line from side to side and break the continuity of the desir- able one. A pleated apron front, side | panels of pleating, panel the full |length of the dress, a belt that goes only half arou the figure, long tight, but not extremely tight, sleeves or sleeves of three-quarter length, | lowing from the elbow, each is a de- sira Dark stockings _slenderize un- beautiful ankles; while black is un- fashionable. gu metal and caramel may be worn, never the light shades, which serve to call too much attention to a bad point. Strapped slippers, or ones claborately cul out are poor taste; the simple pump or oxford, with a medium_ heel, is to be pre- ferred. If the fect are not large, a bronze or cut steel buckle on the pump mart for afternoon. The vogue of the scarf is a blessing to the large woma She can do such graceful and flattering things with scarves. Next to the long line, sim- plicity is imperative How greatly 1l how often the world has mused at the lady, who, having a goodly number ¢ square inches of surface upon which to place many kinds of feathers, laces, beads and buttons, has scized her opportunity and has moved majestically across the open spaces with a jingling and a rustling in_her wake. Mercifully, from the csthetic point of view, the type is fading. Although madame n never give way to her almost Suppressed craving for pink taffeta, it is possible for her to look exceed- ingly well dressed and exceedifigly smart. Simplicity Always. The rules of simplicity which have been recommended for the large wom- an apply equally to every other wol an, no matter what her age, color, religion or politics. It is so this Summer, and the atmosphere of ultra- plain and distinctive simplicity bids fair to be the guide of the Fall and Nl been | D. ‘C., THURSDAY, Winter mode as well. The garconne influence is beautifully youthful, yet not in the bread and milky-blue-sash- and-white-muslin manner, that it is not surprising that smart New York and Washington prefers it. Not too mannish; the horrible warning here lies in_the memory of the way the tailored suits was overdone/ last spring; a costume primarily infended for shopping and walking in the morning, whereupon many of our would-be best people donned it upon rising and_took it off just in time for bed. For Fall the taliored coat dress will be better than the suit—also the seven-eighths coats with a matching dress. Summer apparel is with us; it has been with us for some weeks and it will be for many more. Its outstand- ing characteristics are simplicity, so- phistication, brevity and the idea of the ensemble rather than the separate article. There is no broad and flowery path to consummate chic, but the maxim that best smooths the way is “underdress rather than over- dress. i So long has lovely woman, or would- be lovely woman, complained of the difficulty of appearing modishly dressed in warm or hot —weather that designers this particular Sum- mer seem to have used all their in- genuity to present models of every SoTt 80 erly charming as to make it practically impossible for a wom- an n to have her Summer-time self be her best self of the year. “Charm- ing" 1%, of course, tne mOSL over- worked word in the language of fashion. However, it is insisted that the correct dress on the particular type of woman for whom it was in- tended becomes just such. Five Neceasary Articles. For this summer, no matter what one's pe, there are five articles Which are claimed to be absolutely essenlial, because, if need be, they Will earry a woman through the season. The a variation of hat is small, the ubiquitous cloche, and is either of felt or satin. Felt is perhaps more serviceable and the shape that boasts a high crown, very little brim and is turned up at one of its angles is the most desirable. Then comes the printed crepe dress, serving for town or country wear Pleated aprons and crepe de chine bandings and collars help to keep this sort of a dress fresh in the stickiest of weather. A straight, short, washable silk dress is the third friend in need—the various tub silks, awning striped and gaily fig- ured, make delightful sport dresses in this manner. For afternoon or evening a lace gown is invaluable; beige present smarter than gray, beige or black is recommended. A georgette crepe dress of good quality serves for the lace and wears beautifully. Fifth and finally, is the dark silk coat by way of a wrap. The black or navy straight-line model of the spring the virtue of putting cv- erything worn in its company at its case. To be mistress of one's wardrobe one must understand 1t and managc it with intelligence. Do not buy Imported Scarf. in jade. brown, sand and blue. orange, much at one time, but add continu- ously. At the beginning of the sea- son choose between black and brown— choose finally and definitely—and your various timely purchases will fit in without friction. Black requires white and gray; brown requires cream, beige and ‘tan. Women who are not smart, it wiil be found, as a rule, are indifferent. The amount of ingenuity exercised results in a corresponding amount of charm. The Ensemble Counts. A dgess or suit alone does mot amount to much in the eternal striv- ing toward ultimate chick; the en- semble counts. The planning of the whole costume, the attention to de- tail, the careful dressing of the hands and fesd, the choice of appropriate accessories and one’s general groom- to make the head not large en flg Knaftted S Suit, apd Bathing St .ot Printed. Orepe—Cape of Red being at same occasions as one of JULY 31, 1924, ing produce the appearance of dis- tinction so difficult to achieve and 80 sweet to the feminine heart. The test of one's good taste is not what one selects but what enticing and probably rather impossible things one eleminates. Mencken or Julius Caesar, we are not sure which, said, “It is not what you do, it is the way in which you do it.”" After all, it is not the ~exact articles a wom- an wears down Peacock Alley; it is the way she wears them that pro- vokes masculine approval and feml- nine envy along the route of travel. Consistency and an esprit de corps among the ingredients of one's cos- tume will go far to produce that ele- gant simplicity, so sure of itself and usually so expensive. Starting from the crown of the smart woman's head and finishing at the soles of her feet, may the details of her apparel which make the mid- summer mode the delightful thing it is be here presented? The Art of Detafis. The modified cloche, and its small but effective variations, in satin, felt, Coat Dress of black bergaline faille. bengaline or fine straw. trimmed simply with ribbon, a metal buckle, a jeweled pin or a feather brush; large decorative beads in choker length. crystal or colorful: three strands of pearls with jeweled clasp, large pearls with an occasional emerald and |an emerald clasp, fat silver or gold | beads, black or gray pearls (all these | |jewels are ~artificial, being both amusing and decorative):; the scarf of chiffon or gayly printed silk, the} |large fox scarf, never a small fur; [YhL’ straight, ief and simple frock, | | suit or wrap: short gloves, plain or | | with decorated turnback cuffs har- monizing with the gown, white with white and black ensembles, long gloves for extremely formal occa- sions; envelope purse of leather, silk or embroidery, a bag very rarely:| stubby umbrelia on a strap or circle to slip over the arm; stockings very sheer in flesh, beige, rosy beige, cara- mel and gray on with gray clothes, never black; the pump or simple one- strap shoe, with Cuban and low heels for daytime wear. never the sandal | cut out to the =ole; white buckskin shoes. plain or color trimmed, for the | country. | S an excuse | season the | ones which are seen on women of dis- | crimination are vellow, be flesh, | the cool greens, red . black | and white and ! and red. Nothhing will ever take the place of | all white for q et distinction. Also other colors which suit one’s soul or | eyes or skin are permissible; the fore- | going are those most often seen. Checked or plaided material, combindi with plain, is good: there are not go many figured frocks as there ware last summer. Dresses That Appeal. TImported dresses of flower-tinted voiles, handmade, are always with us and always appealing. Sport frocks of flannel, washable broadcloth and tub silk have had a wonderful time this season—they have gone every- where and seen everything. Sports are exacting; the costumes for them either are or are not: there is no beautiful tolerance shown. Apropos of the girl who indulges in strenuous pursuits, a smooth even coat of sun- burn is eagerly sought. Shades of our pink and = white grandmothers! The wise person, however, will try to arrange that there are no abrupt edges on her neck, shoulders or arms, as this looks rather queer when she is in evening gown. A certain latitude is permitted in the choice of the evening dress. The dance frocks that are wide enough to permit full liberty of motion are usually bouffant. If they are straight, chiffon or georgette fashions them, and being wise little gowns, they em- ploy loose scarfs and draperies ‘to float out as the wearer moves. Qstrich trims gowns of white, flesh or pastel tints, and colored lace frocks have never been smarter. The magnifi-| cently beaded slim line dress also comes to ‘exclusive parties this sea- son. _All the models described and illustrated may be purchased in Washington shops and many of them are at clearance prices. Correct Summer Attire. Since correct attire is known to improve one's game, the suit worn by the seated young woman (A) ex- presses itself in beige wool fabric in a basket weave. The sleeveless jacket, piped in jade, fastens with two yellow glass buttons, striped in green and red and boasts two set-in pockets. Both the skirt and jacket are stitched in navy, gray, red, white, brown, yellow and French blue above the hem, while the skirt wraps around and fastens in the back. This model is now half price. The tailored blouse is beige radium, piped in white, also obtainable in powder blue and white. Onlooking has grown to be one of the major sports. It may be effec- tively pursued (B) in a frock of peach colored flat erepe, trimmed with bands of white silk cord and small flower motifs, executed in white beads and blue, orchid, pale green and rose stitching. The folds on the moderately full skirt are piped in white and trimmed with fetching glass buttons. The neck opens in front and ties with a bow of self material. This model may be bought for two-thirds of its former price. The serviceable wash frock at its best (C) here chooses maize silk broadcloth and white broadcloth col- lars and cuffs. The collars and cuffs jare hand hemstitched and hand em- broidered, as is the dress. Its one pocket consists of four wide tucks. This model, entirely handmade,; comes also in blue and rose, and may be had for a bit less than two-thirds of its former ptice, ‘The ini der here attire: hergelf (D) in & white georgette dress _ 4Coz on Page 44} l FEATURES. AL AN G “Onyx CLAND LY AN AN CIANDLCII AN NN G NN/ N A ON A ON N IIONY LNV O NVLY Fashionable Colors Style No. 255 —“Onyx Pointex” medium weight silk with lisle top and sole... Style No. 355—“Onyx Pointex” sheer silk with lisle top and lisle lined sole...$1.95 At leading stores & Hosie Pd 4y * Pointex” is to be had only in *Onyx" Hosiery, and is so marked on the heel of every stocking. R\ YN = -$1.95 y LONV I NNV CN A ONNV A DN AN M N “Our Recommendation is Your Protection” H “ The WHIRLWAVE Elec. Washer ” Delivered to Your Home For a Down Payment of ... ..... Unexcelled in struction, handsome finish, copper tub, & swinging wringer, 4 The mechanical and electrical ‘10 2 con- battleship gray, blue enamel -sheet capacity and detachable positions, finest oscillator made—thor- oughly washing both the heaviest and the daintiest safety. clothing with perfect Phone for a demonstration. NATIONAL ELECTRICAL SUPPLY COMPANY 1328-30 N. Y. Ave. Telephone Main 6800 One woman started it then 50 tried it Now this NEW luncheon recipe is going over the whole country, most amazingly "T’S one of those “different things”—simple yet unusual—that every now and then becomes a vogue over night; a new, quick-cooked luncheon, with an oddly refreshing appeal. A woman sent us the recipe. Then, we asked 50 others to try it— and that is how it started. You may like it, too, Clip this from the paper and try it. Ingredients: 2 cups QUICK QUAKER. 4 cupe water. 1 teaspoon salt. 4 level tablespoons cocoa and 4 of sugar. 1 teaspoon vanilla. ‘water to & boil. Add cocos and sugar water; then slowly stir in the ocats. Cook 3 to Sminutes. Add vanilla. tos ‘with boiling mixed rve hot or cold with cream. Wonderful chilled, moulded and served in slices. Standard fuall size and weight packages— Medium: 1Y pounds; Large: 3 pounds, 7 oz. Breadtime Little What the Base Ball Trainer Said Jimmy Johnson’s big brother was Captain of a School Base Ball Team, and Jimmy thought there would be nothing finer than getting on the team himself some day when he grew taller. So Jimmy played all sorts of games with the younger boys, doing everything he could to make his muscles hard and strong, and build up his sturdy But although Jimmy was a game little fellow, and although he seemed as healthy and active as | other lads of his age, running and | jumping tired him out, and he was always the last to get in when he ran a race. That made Jimmy un- happy, and. it worried his mother too, for she could not understand Stories for Folks | what was the matter with him. He | was always hungry and he was out | in the fresh air all day, but she| made up her mind that something | must be wrong. | So she spoke to Jimmy’s father | that evening, and while they were | talking, Jimmy's big brother came | in—a fine, strong youth who looked the picture of health. | “I know what's the trouble with Junior,” he said as he looked at the | untouched bread Jimmy had left by | his plate. “He doesn’t eat enough bread. Our trainer says that the nourishment in bread is the stuff that makes a good team, and he’s ordered us to eat all the bread we €an at every single meal. Only this morning, he told us that bread con- | tains the nutriment value of milk | in addition to other body-building ingredients, and he insists that the | whole team eat plenty of bread.” | Then Jimmy's face lif up, and he | began to eat the bread he had| been neglecting. Certainly, if bread would make an athlete of him, he wanted to eat lots of it every day, and what was more, he soon found that the Corby’s Mother’s Bread his mother bought is not only fine- flavored and good by itself, but that it mzkes jams, peanut butter, let- tuce and fruits taste ever so much better. And, as every growing boy | should know, all these good things, | eaten with bread, help littlc men to | grow big. Try Corby's Mother's | Bread yourself, and seec what it does for you. Copyright 1924 by The Corby Baking Co., Ine. —Advertisement.