Evening Star Newspaper, May 11, 1924, Page 77

‘Summer Hats Divi BY MARY MARSHALL. S the days continue to lengthen the milliners turn their brains to thoughts of wider brimmed bats. But they cannot glide Into the realms of umbrageous cape- lines, floppy sarden party bats, large TMushrooms, traditional leghorns and the rest of the wide-brimmed species A8 smoothly a8 in other seasons. As ©one millinery expert put it, “it is the bobbed-halr predicament that is both- ering most of us.” If you think tbat the recent im- Dulse on the part of American wom- ankind to be shorn of her crowning &lory is something that affects only the diligent army of barbers and halr dressers you are quite in error. Their Problem is comparatively simple. They have only to adapt themselves o long hours, feverish activity and the problem of changing their tech- Tique in wielding the hot iron. Wom- en who affect the smooth Valentino shingle have invaded the men's bar- ber shops—but then in many sections inen have retaliated by invading the Things Here are Mary Ann's three favor- itas of all the hats in the shop She can't decide which to take, so she losves it to you to choose for her. Try them on her by folding on the lines and see which is most becom- ing. !“:uld like this: Every dotted line indieates a fold. Crease the paper with the faces together on line F. * Now fold the paper back on lins K. D, back on C, forward forward on A. One by one the on B, back on Other School Rooms. While you sit in your quiet class room at school,'with boys and girls at neat desks around you, scholars in roreign lands are learning their les- sons in quite a different fashion. The Moorish rahab’s class room, for in- stance, is in a shady corner out of doors, with the desert sand at his feet for a slate om which to write the lesson. The Chinese boy's teacher thinks e isn't studying unless he shouts his lesson at the top of his lungs all ihe time. When & boy hag velled to 111g satisfaction, he marches up to the teacher, hands the book to her, turns o that his face is to the class, and 1ells them all he knows. There are no girls in the class, for they are kept ot home to help their mothers with jne*housework. Yoshi-San, the Japanese boy, goes 15 school like the American school- hoy, byt he takes off his shoes at the coor bafeve be cuters. Instead of the twenty-sfx letters of the alphabet A “beauty parlors” in quest of mud packs and manicures. * ok ok R HE millincr’s problem raally is more complicated then most women realize. While any one may say In passing that all women have adopted the bob, the fact remains that many women, numerous fashion- able women among them, do and will persist in the archatc habit of wear- ing thelr hair long. Thus every mil- liner is confronted with the problem of supplying hats to the bobbed and the unbobbed, and as summer ap- proaches there is the added compli- cation of producing smart hats for the shorn as well as the more hairy species. The first impression was that the wide-brimmed hat would never do with short hair. The small hat—the cloche and the closely draped turban —had assumed their present vogue because of the bob. An entirely new silhouette had to be worked out by the designers in the wide hat of the newer sort— with proportions quite dif- ferent from those of oldtime wide- hats will fold down on Mary’s head. The bonnets will be prettier if you color them with your crayons. Make Mary's face pink, darker on the cheeks. Her eyes may be blue and her hair yellow with a blue hair rib- bon. Make the top hat green, with lavender and pink flowers in the cen- ter of green ribbon rosettes. The mid- dle hat may be bright red and the one nearest Mary blue, with tan rib- bon wheels. cmme==-F. < which are found in the English lan- guage, the Japanese language em- ploys forty-seven, and when Yoshi- San writes them he uses a little paint brush instead of a pen. In Arabla and north Africe little students sit cross-legged on the ground while they recite their lesson of verses from the Koran, the Mo- bammedan Bible, iz & sing-song uni- |’ son. ———— False Report. Tuffy—Say, kid, where's de fair? Percy—Fair? I haven't heard about any fair. Tufty—Den de paper lies. It says “fair tonight and Wednesday." Disrespectful. Jaae—Just think, mother, a poor worm provided the silk for my dress. Mrs. Brown—I'm shocked, Jane, that you should speak so disrespect- tully of your dear father. THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTONs D ded Into T'wo Classes—For the Bobbed and the Unbobbed MAY 11 1924—PART A*Review of the Newest Chapeau Styles of the Season brimmed bats, when the crown made room for several oumces of hair. Of course, there had to be theso wider hats. It is natural to thiak that they must appear in warm weaiher; and thers has been quits a bit of talk about them. At some of the win :r resorts in the south they made (heir appearance as early as February, and they were worn by bridesmaids at soveral distinguished Easter weddings and will be worn by many more of the June brides- maids. But in spite of all that there are rather good fashios prophets who seem to think that this will not be a season of wide brims at all. Though French milliners have shown some very interesting hats of this description the French women themselves have a strong attachment for the small, close-fitting hat, which ts becoming very deep and high of crown. Doctors railed for years about tight lacing without ever doing very much to stop it * % %2 VIORALISTS preached aganst low necks, short skirts, “peck-a-boo” frocks, but theese things went on. Fashion alone seems to be able to put aside style, whether it offends AT LEFT: BLACK STRAW WITH CREST OF RED SILK AND RHINESTONE BIRD, WORN ‘WITH RED-AND-BLACK SCARF. AT RIGHT, BELOW: LARGE SHAPE OF WHITE ORGANDIE, BOX-PLEATED AND TRIMMED WITH BLACK TULIPS. THE BRIM IS FACED WITH BLACK VELVET, the moralists or the doctors. They may occasionally in some slight de- gree influence fashions, but the degree is very slight. So the hat situation is where it has been probably, after consideration of the warnlng of a physician who says that the tny, brimless hats most women aro wear- ing are quite insuficient for sum- mer. F¥or summer, says he, there should be a shading brim to soften the light of the sun. Otherwise, a serious condition of permanent sun- burn may result. What are you going to do about it? This is good advice—to consider the hat for your tailored frock or suit in a class quite apart from sport hats or hats to be worn with lighter, more ceremonial afternoon things. No matter how you may hanker after the cconomy of work- Ing one hat twelve or fourteen hours about LARGE HAT OF BLACK MALINE, WORN IN METALLIC BROCADE IN DIFFERENT COLORS. EARRINGS WITH ONE B! Which Are of Int a day, you will find that if you want to give the right presentation to your tailored street attire you must buy a hat especlally for it The wider brimmed, lace trimmed, transparent, frilly hats that beckon to you from the milliner's windows will never do for the tailored get-np. Sport hats really ought to be con- sidered in a olass by themselve: too. Thé true sport hat is not the most suitable affinity you can select for the tailored suit, though many women seem to think that they have chosen wisely when they wear a sport hat of soft and pliant lines for this purpose. The French woman sots us a rather good example in prefrring for the tallored sult a brisker, more alert sort of hat, trimmed with ribbon quills or a well wired bow of ribbon. For the navy blue tallored suit, you know, the navy straw, trimmed with navy erest THE EVENING. THE BRIM IS FACED S ] ND to blue and white is In effect and in fact, very smart. ¥ xox % VERY once in so often red hats come into fashion again. Yhis ems to be once in so often. No one writes concerning fashions in Paris at the present time without commenting on the small, all-red hat that seems to have brightened the epirits of the fashlonable women of Paris during an unusually tedious sprini Unfortunately, bright red hyts are reaching this country just at the time of year when bright red hats are just exactly what most of us don’t need to wear. It is timc we were thinking of blues and of yellows and of greens. Still, any woman with a good sup- ply of hats might Nave one on hand just to wear on dull days. One gets tired of hearing, scason after season, tho statement that black and white is very smart. It is like being reminded frequently that sugar is sweet. It is something that never seems to go entirely out of fashion. This season, however, French wom- en have come to the conclusion that pure white against black does not tecome them so much as cream white. It is a good suggestion for the dark, or olive-gkinned, woman of this country. Next to black and white, black and yellow seems to have sirongest ap- peal. At present onc Immediately thinks of the biack straw hat with yollow buttercups. Brown in its almost Infinite shad- ings still has strong appeal. And among leading designers thers is a growing willingness to use it in com- bination with other oolors. Sapphire blue and cocoa brown is a combina- tion which has been admired in France. All types of hats are still trimmed with ribbon. Ribbon knows no class distinction. Lewis of Paris seems to have been especially successful with it. On one little brimless pot-shaped hat rather wide ribbon is attached from beneath the crown in front,‘in back and at each side. These four strands of ribbon are drawn straight up to the top of the hat, where they are tied in a large and jaunty bow. It is the kind of hat that delights the taste of a French woman. OST of us have not outgrown that childish point of. view that wreath of flowers makes a very satis- factory trimming for any summer hat. There is a pleasurs in looking about at the marvelous posies that bloom on the millinery counters, though you couldn’t for the life of you trim a hat Roses still bloom there most plenti- fully. Just at present there is noth Ing smarter than a single red rose and a single white lily. Sometimes they hang downward at the side back of the hat. Pond lilies, calla lilics, the vogue for the waxy, white flow- that began with the gardenia. Only sometimes they are waxy yel- low, blue or mauve. even carry on ers Buttercups bloom on black hats Nasturtiums are smark And so is the mimosi and the narcissus. Then there are the always interest- ing millinery blossoms that defy the analysls of any botanist. They are counterparts of flewers that never blossomed on this planet It is quite a smart tric to group of dif- an assemblage of little feront colors unknown to the fancier. A small brown pot-shaped milan hat is entirely covered one-half with small roses in blue vellow, lilac and rose color. A brown veil softens the shape and hangs in folds on one side. Last but not least roses WITH PETALS OF CK ONE WHITE PEARL Jere For Jack Resinsen [RABBLT Mother’s Day. Today is the second Sunday May and is therefore Mother's day. It has been set aside as the day om which to honor the best mother who ever lived—your mother. Its object is to recall the memories of the mothers who have gone and through loving words and loving care to brighten the lives of the mothers ‘who remain. ‘The white carnation is the Mother's dsy flower.: Its whiteness stands for purity; its form, beauty aad fragrance for love; its wide fleld of growth, charity; its lasting qualities, faithfulness—alli a true mother's virtues. Since the founding of Mother's day by Miss Anna Jarvis of Philadelphia, the custom of its celedration has spread over the continent. You may read below some of the Mother's day sentiments as they have been ex- pressed by the poets: Who'll wear & rose for Mother's day, A half oped rose and whil Plucked in the morning while the dew That gathered over night. To kiss its petals like a gem In its pure heart appears, As pure and sweet as a mother love, As rare as mother's tears? JUDD MORTIMER LEWIS ‘We breathed it first with tongue, ‘When cradled in her arms we lay; Fond memories "round that name are hung, That Will not, cannot pass away. We breathed it then, we breathe it still, Mors doar than sister, brother, The gentle power, the magic thrill, Awakened at the name of Mother. FANNY J. CROSBY. lisping friend or Who is it teils with .untiring feet For those she loves, with a courage sweet Meeting each {1l, and from fall of night Dreams of her dear ones till morning Hght? Mother. THOMAS CURTIS CLARK. e Acsop Revised. g Birds of a feather flunk together. Written and Ilustrated by Edward McCandlish. “Get out 4’ way, old Da Tucker! “Get out @' way, old Daa Tucker! Get out &' way, ald Dan Tucker— You come too late to get yo' supper!™ NE time the folks of the Big Pond persuaded Brother Jack Robinson Rabbit to run for the legislature. “How you go sbout it asked Brother Jack. *“Well,” replied old Silas Bluejay, who had served a term in Congress during President Madison's reign, “you stand on a corner when @' folks is comin’ out of church—or maybe the theayter, an' as each one comes along you lifts yo’ hat an’ says: “Good evenin'! How is yo' wife? How’s yo' family? Have a seegah!” So Brother Jack Rabdbit posted him- self on & principal corner and carried his Instructions out to the letter. He - (4R distributed several bales of very bad political cigars and went through a great deal of political handshaking. Just before the day for the election Brother Jack's,principal speech was marred by the introduction of some overworked eggs, tomatoes.and an- tique cabbages. But the -election finally came off, and” Brother Rabbit received just one vote—that was his own. Brother Rabbit took the result very philosophically, and the follow- ing day he addressed a gathering of his sorrowing citisens. “All I has to say,” said Brother Rabbit, “in regard to my late politi- cal disaster is, that if you—Fellow Citizens—had seen fit to elect me as your political representative an’ sent me to sojourn among d high lights at @ National Capitsirall I has to say 13 that—in my unsophisticated way—I would have made Rome howi!™ The Warbler Family. The robin and the bluebird have been settled in their nests a month or more and are busy at rearing young onmes before the many mem- bers of the large warbler family make their appearance. But about this time in May, you will begin to see them among the wild cherry and lilac bushes, late arrivals from the islands of the Caribbean, the Gulf of Mexico and the heart of South America where they winter. The wood warblers and all their various family connections are in general tiny birds which are sel- dom seen on the ground, chooSing rather to swing In treetops or hide themselves in the depths of shrub- bery. They are called soft-billed birds, as they possess very siender, delicats beaks adapted to picnick- ing on ellky cocoons or fresh bee- tles rather than pecking about in the soll for their dinners. The warbler’s frail bill would be easily smashed if used In the way the sparrow, for instance, uses his. Many of the warblers have vel- low and black combinations of col- oring, but there are distinct mem- bers with plumage of fanciful var- iety and manifold hues. The high range of their song is remarkable, being above the highest tones of the keys on a piano. Perhaps it is because they are small and are therefore at the mercy of latger birds that migh attack them that they travel.the thousands of miles The yellow face, black. helmet and iarge numbker of white tall-feathers distinguish the hooded warbler from others of the famfly. kY SOFT KID 1IN CORN COLOR; BRIM FACED WITH COCOA ORGANDIE AND END OF KID LAID ACROSS BACK. Younger HORIZONTAL, 1—Greek lyricist. 9—Disloyal act. 16—Blood-sucking 17—Uttered. 19—Sphere of action. 20—Plunders. monster. £1_Charger. th periwinkle blue in France little brim only covered wit The brim | the nat is faced w A hat much admired & gradl ciocle witho is crown 2—Change direction. Strike Convulsive breath. Kindled. Termination, &2—Kind of wind d #4—Town of ancient Greece. £5—Girl's name. 86—Impatient nd 31—Emphatic pegations. 33—Sallies. 35—Alighted. 35—His majesty. 39—Bilk. 41—Chemical term. b= 4 q 50—Short run. 51—Hydrous silica 52—Range of pastare. 53—Two. 57- teh. 58—For example —Assert. —Rath's mot 3—Intrigues. 14—kinrage. 15—Chinese sa 15—Signals. 59—Staten lsiand. 81—Glid 26—Noter between their winter and summer homes during the night instead of in daylight. Often they perish on the way, flying into electric light wires or beating their wings againt Iighthouses. ‘Warblers seem to know little fear of humans, for the bird stu- dent may even approach a nest and stroke the mother bird's back dur- ing brooding time. Five thousand miles is no unus- ual trip for the Blackburnian warb- ler to take from his tropical home in Peru, where he winte; to points ag far north as Hudson's Bay for summer nesting. His nest is some- times built eighty feet above the ground in the braches of a tall spruce or hemlock. There he flut- ters from one limb to another, a mervous, restless little fellow with a high, wiry, penetrating song, that grows even more shrill at the end. The hooded warbler is one of the most attractiver members of the family, a gentle, leisurely bird. He §7—Measure of time (Hist.) 88—Coming_out VERTICAL. ther-in-law. 9—Rody of horse. 10—Famous coster singer. 8 ge. @ B—To tormeat. 25— Curing crippled children. Answer to cross-word puzzle in last Sunday’s Star. IAIRTE] SRNEUEE ACMEENG (LA IC IS IETRTPIETN Il <[ [T] [rIc] AD) [SIAIT] IRIE] [METTIER] flies from Panama, his spot, to haunts as far north as Michigan, making only about thir- ty-three miles a day, a distance which he can fly-in less than an hour. wintering