Evening Star Newspaper, April 6, 1924, Page 81

| Sprl_ng GRAY SPORT COAT. LINED W PLAID, WITH V BY MARY MARSHA O maintain the c houette, Ple with a s wrap, d <hion thes-pole sil- without bulge or rip- still » us bstantial been the and to wide and p problem for this exacting te ot tive coat spring. has cape makers more Wraps Maintain the Famili ITH GRAY AND TERRA COTTA TO MATCH. than it was six months ago, vear ago, in her demand that one's form be bounded by two perfectly straight perpendicular lines placed as ro. | tar to each other as is humanly | | possive this con- you maintain s narrow contour, as or a THE stricted as that of a mummy in his| wrappings, you may choose cape or cost, long ocoat or three-quarter length coat, wrap-around or coat that fasténs down .the front, satin lined with wool or dhiffon, crepe coat, black wrap or white wrap, dull or bright, fur-collared, scarf collared, or not col- lared at all. There has been such a pother over | the tailored sults this year that we have heard less discussion than usual Some women may have | to- decide whether they will buy a i sult for but of cowrse the suit never ta place in the spripg wardrobe of s Some of the French solve: the problem of finding a wrap that will Ge appropriute for wear with #p.Aing frocks by making a =pe- clal wrap for every spring frock that they ofter for sale. You cannot go wrong thus provided It Is a very pleasant arrangement for those who can afford it. Shall the spring coat be full length Shall the frock show be- neath? Are the wrap-around and side closing stlll good? Are capes still to be worn®) Are fur col- lurs as appropriate s éver for spring and summer wrups? age in fushion? What eolor—white ! black. blue, beige, brown? What lin ing—mutehing, pluid, contrasting? ™h wome of the that enter a woman's head when whe 8 about selecting orderin spring wrap, or, less happily. k of left-overs in see what arrangements | made to make the old things do. Very impoktant is the question of length. » With the present tendenc toward shorter skirts, the wrap is usually worn slightly longer, Kor the woman who needs every possible sug- gestion of slenderness this is the Sottar arransement: but for the young woman who really is quite as lithe as she wishes to appear to be, the shorter coat is often a wise se- | lection. One of the smartest French cast makers has been showing his | customers nothing but three-quarter- | length coats—with the frock showing some four or five inches below the [ coat. 2 about coats. or @ « sprin | i or lesn?, o are duestions i st o & ®ok HE cape of the season is long— rarely giving even a peep of the frock beneath. Frequently frocks { and matching coats are made in pre- | cisely the same length. There is a banana yellow crepe de chine froek with a coat of the same color in velour, lined with slate-gray satin. | Skirt and frock are of precisely the same length. The same uniformity of length marks a coat and frock of black crepe satin and plaid chiffon. To begin with there is a tight black satin slip. over which hung a straight tunic of plaid chiffon show- ing three or four inches of black satin at the hem. The coat that ex- tends to the edge of the slip is of black crepe satin, lined with the plaid chiffon matching the tunic. About the | front and hem and cuffs of the satin cogt there is a border of rolled black satin D t be surprised if ( other six months rolls around wrap-around and side-closing before an- the are SUNDAY BTAR, dressmakers | effect | What materials | WASHINGTON, D. C. WHITE HOMESPUN BEACH CAPE, LINED WITH GAYLY COLORED PRI LIN ED CREPE. French designers slowly but surely been getting away from these devices. The extreme departure the straight, close-fitting have a number of small buttons and but- tonholes. Martial et Armand is re- | sponsible for some of these coats of truly Russian suggestion—and If you rather passee. The fact is that have patience to count you may dis- s | coat that | | buttons straight down the front with THE HANDS ARE PUT IN SLIT POCKETS IN G TO HOLD CAPE IN PLACE. | cover that these new French but- toned epats sometimes have nearly thirty buttens and buttonholes. But you may also notice that quite fre- quently they are not fastened—save | through the hip and waist section. One distinct disadvantage that the front-buttoned cqat would have for most American women is that it needs ! rather precise fitting and adjustin Inas been APRIL 6, 1924—PART 5. It is so simple to slip Into one of the wrap-around o side-closing coats that very few women comparatively k of having their coats made to order: But this new type front-but- toned French coat Is of ‘another sort. From Japan first came the idea of the wrap-around coat, being derived first in negligees and later for out- side wraps from the Japanese ki- mono. Apparently China has led us back to the front-closing, for some of the most distinctive of these coats are frankly suggestive of the man- darin coat. Others are patently of Russia. Lanvin and Jenny, as well as Martial et Armand, have gone for- ward with the coat with the center closing, and it was Lanvin's originai | idea to add interesting liningy, with ornate bandings and pockets, #o that this new type of coat would appear to most interesting advantage when the edges were turned back. Quite a mew trick, you know, is to have pockets in the lining of one's coat, and after that one must learn the trick of keeping the hands thrust in these pockets, thercby revealing the glories of the lining. * % ok Ok i | HERE is also a new trick in wear~ ing the cape—the long cape that | worn frequent in white | I nomespun as a beach cape winter | | resorts during the weeks just passe 4 This cape is provided with two pock | ets at the front—pockets with open- ing running up and down—into which | the tips of the fingers are thrust when the cape is worn. By means of these pockets the cape is held tight about the body, thus achieving the necgssary lines of slenderness. One dressmaker of distinetion has been making capes of this description with slde godets, which, when the eape s wrapped tightly around the body, flare outward below the knee. ivine that peculiar silbouette that has been called Cambodian. What of fur collars? There is, of course no special nov- elty abeut the use of fur on spring and summer wraps, and perhaps there is less evidence of it this season than 1ast, or the spring befare last. Who runs must read that the day of | the enormous coat collar is gradually waning. Chinese and Russian influ- | ences have conspired to show it the door. Most satisfactory substitute for | this enormous rolling collar is the collar that is contrived from an ap- plied scarf. Sometimes this scarf! shows but one long end that wraps | {around the neck, hanging over the front or back in one long fringed end | Martial et Armand has designed a | spring coat the neck of which is fin- | !ished with a scarf with two ends that { cross at the front and-hang over the | wack. Furless the scarf, theugh there | are enormous bands of fur, almost |large enough to be muffs each, on the | I‘H«- s and a band few inches ! labove the hem of the coat | a The low u be traced to | Russian or Cossack sources, is frankly not very becoming. But quite often a detail of fashion that flatters jene wins out through sheer ability in persuading us that it is smart. And apparently this narrow collar anding collar, tha a mandarin may | at or to | no that has come to us from the east has convinced us of its smartness in the | present silhouett, When the discussion around fabrics for the spring wrap, black satin takes important place. Very smart are the long, straight-line black satin coats—fitting as close as is conststent with perfectly straigh lines. Often these are finished with Tather narrow ban f fur at the focus, w ar Clothes-Pole Silhouette NAVY REPS CAPE LINED WITH GRAY CREPE, BRAIDED WITH BLACK. THE CAPE BUTTON: O+ LEFT SHOULDER AND THE FRONT PANEL 1S BUTTONED AT THE BACK, GIVI THE FECT OF A FROCK AND |euffs ana collar. A lining of cloth [that is to be found in many of them makes them for much chill jer spring days than would at first eem likely. That the black satin coat will undiminished favor |even when warmer days come is up- | parent from the fact that it is some- ! ed with chiffon, so that coat, {lining and all, are of feather weight. 1924) suitable enjoy imes (Copyrig) Things Which Are of Interest to Younger Readers Precious Jewels. How Cameos Are Cut. fome of the old Greek cameos are 20 intricately chiseled that we are led to think the ancient cameo cutters spent months working on a single stome. Yet the hours they put in were to good advantage, for a well carved cameo is a permanent thing. There are cameos in existence Wwhich were fashioned hundreds and even thou- (sands of years ago, but which are as perfect as though were done yesterday. It was very stylish a few centuries ag0 for a person to wear a cam likeness of his face. doth wore them. Queen F abeth had several with her head on the \One of the best, the Barbor cameo, was made in honor of her for the mercy she showed for & man con demned to die. G William Barbor had been ordered burned to death by Queen Mary, who was England’s ruler at the time. He was in prison awaiting the day of his execution when the news came {hat Mary had passed away. The new queen, ¥ abeth, ardo d Barbor. a shaw_ his thankfulness, he pre- sented her with a cameo bearing her picture. Two kinds of engraving are done on stones—intaglio, which means cut- ting down into the stone, and relief, such cameo cutting. Onyx cedony and sardonyx are popular stones used for « ause they have layers. onyxes have layers of different colors, Agate is black and white and carne- lian is red and white. The figure cut of the top section, which is usu- ally the lighter one, then the rest of the layer is cut away, so the figure stands out on its dark background x is not one of the gems, yet " is & valuable stone. The cameo cutter pays too high a price for it to risk a mistake in his carving. When he is going to work out a figure he first it in wax exactly as it is to be they in the stone, then he copies it line for | lime on the better material. Two towns in Italy—Santa Lucia and Torre de Gréco—are at present the center of the cameo trade. Many of the cameos made there only $cheap coral and shell imitations, which are mounted in r scarf pins and brooches and which seil for a ‘popular pric Real cameos, fault- lessly carved, are always expensive. Strande Radio Laws In Foreign Countries Recent radio regulations in Aus- tralia require that every purchaser of a receiving set must present to the radio goods dealer a cert ate of icense showing that he has sub- scribed to the service of the station to which he wishes to listen in. When the instrument is bought the wave length is adjusted to the station to which the customer sybscribes, he wishes to listen in an other sta tions, he must pay an additional sum | far the privilege. Sealing devices are smploysd to see that radio fans do woe overstep government rights. . “In Meéxlao City broadcasting sta- ’tions are taxed 100 pesos a year and i veceiving stations 5 pesos a year. There are three broadcasting stations In the city. me of the | it} Men and women | Written and Illust: MeCandlink, OST of the folks aequainted with the neighborhood of the | Big Pond kpow that Pep Turtle—Tommy Turtle's fa- ther—has a wooden leg. Ma Turtle, in speaking of it, always refers to it as “Pop's Artificial.” Maybe there is some connection he- tween Pop Turtle's “artificial” | | | and | | his temper. for Pop has a way occa- | sionally of “blowing off” and fiying into a rage about nothing in par- | ticular. One morning Pop Turtle was stump- ing about the yard of the Turtle resi- des making vicious passes at in- animate objects that came in his path and giving other signs thBt he was about tq go into one of his regular , Tuesday morning rages. Ma Tuyrtle bolted the kitchen door and the little Turtles—Tommy, Susie and Little Billy—climbed up on top of the high board fence, to be out of harm's way. 2 “Look out, children!” Ma Turtle called out of the window. ‘'Paw is in one of his rages Pop Turtle evidently decided that a ride would do him goed, for he led Old Dobbin—the hound dog riding hoss of the family—out of his stall, and with a certain amount of effort and a very free use of the king's | English he finally mangged to get the saddle and bridle on the hound to | suit his fancy. Thus saddled and bridled for the !rlde. Pop Turtle put on his sheepskin !gloves and prepared to mount, while | Tommy, Susie and Little Billy looked {on from the fence. Iflxmly with one hand and holding the ,reins with the other, Pop Turtle made | = lunge that he thought should place him astride the hound. The lunge fell short, however, and Pop Turtle was forced to try it again, This time | he lunged upward a little harder, his ¥f | temper rising perceptibly and aiding | him in the work. This time he came very near to gaining the saddle, but | fell just short of doing so. Of course, a sensible turtle woyld ihave led his mount ta a hitching block, or a stump, or something, and jclimbed into the saddle with perfect ease. But Pop Turtle, as we have said, was in one of his cu Grasping the pomhel of the saddle 1 i and he'd be stumped if he wouldn' mount that there hound dog if it were his last effort,-and so forth. Stepping back a few feet, Pop Tur- tle carefully measured with-bis eye the distance that separated him from the patient hound, and prepared to !make a final, running jump—first jeasting an awe-inspiring look at his three Hopefuls seated on the fence, in order to curb any tendency toward merriment on their part. The three Hopefuls appeared ‘perfectly cowed, Pop Turtle then executed a few ia- voluntary jig steps, hopped up in the air & cauple of times, in order to get started off on the right foot, and then made a dash for the waiting riding hoss. This -fime ‘the mementum of bis rush earried him up on the hound’s back, clear of the saddle, and about twelve or fifteen feet over on the other side of the hound, where he landed on his nose in 3 myd puddle. Tommy Turtle, Susje aad Little Billy promptly collapsed and fell ever backward off the fenoa. Pop Turtle gathered himself up carefully, with about the same care | that ene uses in picking up a basket of chips, and examined himself thor- | oughly, to make sure he had not suf- |fered any breken bones. Carefully counting his fingers, he found they | also answered the usual tally. There were still exactly ten of thenl. Pop Turtle then abandoned his idea of riding, and decided that he wanted & drink of cold, cold water. * ¥ ¥k ¥ There was an old well sweep in the Turtle yard, which was opeffited |in the usual way by a long pole, 2 'rope, and a bucket attached to the rope, The rope had besn broken a numper of times, and instead of sub- stityting & new rope, Pop Turtle had simply tied it together with old bits of twisted rag, shoestrings and the like. Going to this well sweep, Pop Turtle lowered the byeket into the water by releasing the other end of the pole, of coprse. When th> bucket was drawn up, filled with water, Pop Turtle tied the other end of the wall sweep in place and bent ever the well for some purpose, directly under the’ buyket: The loaded bueket b came tdo heavy for the patcited and menided string that supported it. Suddenly the string broke, and down came the bucket, right on the top of Pop Turtle’s bald head—bang! * Kk K Always, after this oceasion, Pep Turtle was apt to do things that were queer, strange, ervatic or at least unusmal. And when folks re- marked about these eccentrieities Ma Turtle always reminded them that “Pa was not to be beld responsible; that when he was 3 baby he had Had a blow on the head with an ax." At other times she explained Pa's queerness by saying that when & baby he had swallowed & button. ‘ Old Simon Bluejay 5aid that the ax explafned things as far as Pop Turtle was concerned. But he’ asked tp know—whe had hit Pep Turtle's “ brother Jim. RS T AR Would Have Been Lost.. Workman—What are you looking tor? Pat==My vest. ‘Workman=You have if ob. Pat—Oh, sure I have. If you had not told me I would bave gone howe witheut it HORIZONTAL. 1—Ancient city. 8 Consume. 9—Intelligible. 18—Valorous person. 16—Spanish conrt yard 18—0f sound mentality .+ 18—Vegetable (pl.). 20—Persons who try by touch of the tongue. 22 English saint 2—Wath, 28—Suffrage. 28—Organ of bead A prong. 3—Girl's wool bat. 3B—Firm. 34—Foe. 36—Large books. —High mountain 38—Calmed Imitated. H Piece of ¢l ~Mature. —Sharp ery. #0—Dales. 93—History. 106—Nocturnal 108—Employ. | 108—Queerly. 112—Muysical 114—Sphere. 47—Greek athletic games. 50— Lithe B1—Maxim. 55—A siphon. 58—Part of “‘to be."" 58—To mecrete. 61—Te recite. S : @ 67—Unctuous ‘stances, | | | | 116—Party. 117—Meadow. 119—Coalwagon mines. 120—Obserye. asimal sub- forms. 115—Enecountered. A continent. 123—Raised horisontal piat- A gambling gome. Devoured 131 Narrow inclosures “Une who seeks cagerly 135 State of equality. T4 Remoteness VERTICAL, }~Roman amphichenter 2—Detinite aticle. Lifted. enal crime. Yot th —An_apathetic person. —Distinguished actor instrament. —A beverage 30—Small devil. 32—Ton. 35—Seream. 8&—Demon, pronoun 38— Finiah. $1—Coloring matters 12—Agile. 44—Period of time. 46—Rate of exchange. 45— Twisted. in ‘Buglish You Cross-Word Fans Try This One! Amll-x:nd i ek after %—To call. onfederate To contract Look. Musical the 1- Mun's 1 Murderd ~To breuk 3 Regret: grl #4-—To rout w 48—To liquify by liex Wi~ Rasps. BB and Tigkoy rts of meals o 1 kname Resinous substance 106—Elongated part Land mout i Auswer to the cross-word puzzle in last Sunday's Star: [SEARMOTEl L VE] [TI=|F] [CIE] XE_uRen [ [BIAILILIALS DA & ERID] NS ) [ - Mf{lfl!{fl 0 RARER [o,/2) wrdla) HFID)M_E} B e — Trips With Birds. Famous Jenny Wren. Jenny Wren, or Kitty Wren, as she is sometimies called, has always been # favorite in story and song. There used tq be a legend in Europe ‘that the wren, though one of the smallest birds, was chosen king of all animals, winning over the ponderous elephant in an eleetipn which the animals had. The different species of wrens in America sre very unfike in their ‘choice of haunts: The house wren must be provided with a dwelling, though he will sometimes live in old barns or In the eaves under your roof. When the house wren has sought a warmer climate, the winter wren comes to live in fallen treas or [\ old stumps in the weods. The Caro- lina wren is another which seeks a woodland home. Marsh wrens prefer a meadow or wet boggy place where cattails grow. In general, the wrens have a scold- ing song. Sometimes they sound like tree toads fussing away in the woods, The Carolina wren is the most power: ful singer of the group. E. Schuyler Mathews, the bird writer, says he sings “Lost m' teakettle, tea-kettle, tea-kettle, tea-kettle, tea!” The short- bilfed marsh wren's song has been de- scribed by Hrnest Seton as a series of “chaps,” running into “chap-v: rrr.” Its elose cousin, the long-billed marsh wren's rippling song is much like that of the house wren, which begins its song by making & series of grating tones that sound like pebbles being rubbed together. Then it utters a high trilling note, followed by others which tumble down the scale to a low ending. It sounds like the babbling of a brook, for the notes are short and uttered in quick succession The Carolina is the brightest wren in color, being a rich brownish or- ange. 1t is the largest as well. Most avrens are speckled brown and only about four inches in length. U e Fault of the Printer. “Waiter! I have found a needle in my soup!” Waiter—Beg pardon, si typo- graphical error. It should hive been & noodle.