Evening Star Newspaper, January 6, 1924, Page 67

y/ S TN HOOP SHAPE MADE OF HEAVILY CARVED GREI GOLD HUNG FROM BARS BELOW THE EARS. THESE BARS ARE ATTACHED TO THIN EARPIECES THAT HOLD THEM IN POSITION. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. » HEN pierced ears went out of fashion and lapsed as a national custom, reform- ers and fashionables mever suspected we would return to that phase of ancient and honorable barbarism in which its ears were decorated with the most gorgeous Jjewelry to be devised and suffered. But we have. Thus do we puzzle the psychologists, who spend much un- mnecessary time on us. N Why we wear jewelry, why wa con- sider it our most precious possession, why we sacrifice to it, why a woman's husband’'s wealth is reckoned by it are questions that were not answered even in the dark ages. As long as the feminine portion of the world ardent- 1y desires to bedeck itself with glit- tering baubles, barbarism has not dis- appeared from the face of the earth. _Maybe It fs well that this is so. There are days when the question be- comes acute whether civilization has done.anything for us. If it has mod- erated disease, it has invented death machinery to balance the budget of mortality. If it has raised up de- mocracy. it hasilet were not possible even in the time of Hannibal. If it has increased lon- it has protected the unfit and loose wars that | prolonged the suffering of the incur- able. But a story on jewelry, on baubles worn during barbarism and in etvili- zation, in peace and war, has naught to do with the story of man’s prog- ress, you say. The retort is that every phase of human ornamentation is part and par- cel of man’s progression or retrogres- sion. Fashion is history made deco- rative. Paris really gave the impetus to colored stones rather than white ones, such as pearls and diamonds, when in the post-war period her women be- gan to wear the multiple slave brace- lets. It was easily to be perceived that half of these trinkets were not genuine. They were worn by those who could not and would not put huge sums of money Into a passing fad. Every rainbow color was in the grouping of heavy bracelets that cov- ered the arm, sometimes from wrist bone to elbow and above. | The rashion has died down in America, where it was not readily adopted, and in Paris one sees enough of it to prove the fashion exists. But what it did was to bring Into play the most extraordinary mass of oriental jewelry worn on every part of the body, even Including ankiets; THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHmGTON CHINESE RED LACQUERED EARRINGS IN THE SHAPE OF IM- MENSE HOOPS. THEY ARE QUITE FLAT AND REST AGAINST THE SIDE OF THE NECK. STRA.\'GE to say, the fashion has not put cheap pearls out of ex- istence. No one expected it to banish real pearls, for they are an integral art of odiental decoration; shops still do a rushing business in strings of imitation oyster secre- tions. So admirable are many of these imitations that the richest wom- en do not hesitate to wear them. Some women reserve real pearls as part of their legacy to their children or for the day when Il luck befalls, by placing them in bank vaults with bonds and stocks. Why, then, should other and less rich women cavil at wearing pearls that cost little? As decoration, they are quite as lovel:. The black pearls, however, worn by great oriental potentates, have come into such power that they rival the cream ones. Already they are imitated. It is much more fashion- able to wear a few black pearls than many light ones. Even the pink pearl is sought rather than its more common sister. Paris led the way in combining black and white pearls, but they have forsaken that trick for the combina- tion of white and black onyx, of black pearls with muttonfat jade, which is the cheapest jade brought out of China, the kind the coolies wear. The Chinese of Importance despised it until the Americans took a fancy to it. Now it is carved with Chinese luck symbols and sold to Americans on Jade, Lantern, and Em- broidery streets in Pekin. Plain and flat, like & button, this jade is strung into necklaces, with “buttour” of equal size Interspersed, to serve a capricious woman's desire for black and white jewelry. Such necklaces have brought back onyx set with pearls or diamonds after the civil war manner. Those who have inherited such pleces of jewelry will do well to hasten to an but the | expert to have them polished, then wear them on every gown that per- mits. Rings and brooches are particu- larly desirable. Earrings are fash- toned like bunches of leaves dropping: from ear lobe to shoulder, their weight carried by the whole ear by means of a slender hoop of gold or silver. Seed pearls and coral make another combination filched from our civil ‘war ancestors, who got it by way of the second emplre through the re- vival of First Napoleonic jewelry and furniture. Carved coral, the Italian kind, is revived in necklaces, brooches and belt buckles, when there is an oc- casion to wear buckles. * x % % HE Chinese headdress - of seed pearls and small bits of coral, usually in the form of smooth beads, has taken hold of occidental fancy. It is not easily obtainable. but jew- elers copy those brought from Pekin by the tourists who come and go to involved no more evpense or ad- involved no more expenses or ad- venture than in going to France. This headdress is made of seed peghl fringe, each strand tipped with |a coral bead. It is attached to = slen- der wire of metal which acts as a bandeau, it ends hooking into the hair at back. It is not permissible with bobbed or shingled hair. What headdress is? Yet, if the prophets are right, women will soon cease to wear their hair long, or wearing It long, be considered as freakish as men. Don't exclaim: “This will never be.” Women vote, work for wages smoke in public, drink, wear knfckars, shoot to kill, go about alone at night. Why not short halr, life Infinitely easier for.us all? The coiffeurs really believe which makes long -D. G, € e (SRR Y Sl vy JANUARY 6, Pearls and Diamonds May Suffer From Use. 1924—PART 5, - BANDEAU OF PEARLS WITH PEARL FRINGE, EACH STRAND FINISHED WITH CORAL. considered freakish among fashion- ables and workers in‘the new fields open to women. It, like other fash- ions of this hour, will come’about because women are too busy to glve an hour morning and evening to the arrangement of their hair. Fashion will have little to do with its abol- ishment. A hat that shows the hair vanished from common usage years ago, so there's no use having hair at all for the daytime. Green jade s used more for neck- laces than aught else. In its real state it is monstrously expensive. It. like all genuine oriental jewelry, belongs to princes and wealthy Amer- icans. But there are lovely pleces of it that are not roval. These are worn as pendants on green silk cords, not on metal chains, remember, ‘aiso as little finger rings, as ghdle orna- ments, as two hat pins that“do not pin anything. but act as decoration to the cloche. . All the countries contribute to the fashion for barbaric earrings. The gypsy hoop, once considered conspicuous, is tame In appearance against the enormous elongated hoops of red Chinese lacquer as broad as the thumb or the triple hoops of seed pearls set in platinum with a colored ornament swung in the center. Jeweled birds in bright colored plummage drop from some ears. They swing, also, in tiny rings of diamond- studdied platinum. Nothing fits over the lobe of the ear. swings, the farther, the better. If one did not know that such baubles were supported by metal hoops | passed over the ear, there would be pity for the pain of it. As it is one must have fortitude to bear such 'burdens as heavy carved gold inset with rubles or beaten gold inset with coral beads. Yet these are worn. And hair will be a laughing matter n |NOt by the adventurous artistic set, five years. Already in Paris it is |but b. sedafe women. Sverything | JPOSSIBLY the height of barbarism | s In the bracelets of skulls carved of old ivory that come from the far east. They are worn for luck, certainly mot for beauty, for they have it not. From Russia comes the revived fashion for crosses swinging from chalns. Our immediate ancestors wora, these, but not at brilliantly jeweled as now. We Qid not walt for the coming of Prince Felix Yous- supoff, the richest noble in old Russia, with his Sinbad the Sailor collection of colorful and precious jewels, to ac- cept the cross as a decoration. We had heard the story of this revival in fashion and had gone to old boxes to get out the cross worn by grand- mother. New ones offered for the holiday season were of Russian workmanship, studded with a curious blue stone| which goes into much of the crown and church fewelry and plate. Green agates and amethysts were mixed with these blue stones. Diamond crosses have been re and are carried on chains of carved platinum. Such decorations come under ed finely the | grouping of eccclesiastic jewelry, and there are various other pieces de- sired by women who follow fashion. There is a revival of flowered jew- elry. Eighteenth century craft is shown In brooches of blue enameled mother-of-pear]l set with flowers of marcassite, or cut steel. Immense Russian brooches or buckles of dull gold are set with square emeralds and flat diamons, that is, without facetting. A few of these picked up last year in France for a song by women who knew a good thing when they saw it are now an envied pos- session, although the stones are not prectous, but they are exquisite in of Colored Jewelry 7 N EARRINGS AND BROOCH OF BLACK ONYX AND TO BE WORN WITH AFTERNOON OR EVENINi BROOCH IS IN AN OLD-F. coloring. They were sold by stranded | twentieth verses of offered a | Russians, who sometimes sable neckpiece for a dinner. Whole sets of cornelian are in the shops, which is another revived civil | war fashion. Women once wore Ting, earrings, necklace and brooch match. One of the splendid modern pendants in cornelian is topped by green agate. There are little finger rings of green agate carved with a crest, or a head of Mercury, or a| symbolic beast. The semi-precious stones for these decorative pieces of jewelry are cornelian, amethysts, chalcedony, chrysoprase, green agate, onyx, tourmalines, jade, vellow dia- nets. Sounds like the nineteenth and to | sought | carats and is valu new | | lucent blues ana | red | which was monds, moonstones, rose quartz, §ar- | American SHIONED SETTING. BUT THE EAR- RINGS ARE CURIOUSLY SHAPED D MOST EF he twenty-first chapter of the R; 1 it Copyright, 19 World’'s Biggest Gem. FHAT 18 held uncut precious world is a flawless black opal, dis- covered in this country and now said to be in the office of a government official here in Washington. The gem contains approximately twenty- one cubic Inch weig 2 1ed by the owners colors are trans ens with a little amous Viennese opal without equal until the specimen found 1,658,927 to be the largest stone in the at $250,000 The The was weighs carats, but | number of flaw Vienna Landmarks Are Reminders of City’s Great Music Masters BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. Vi A morning for You OME with me th aik through Vv ¢ will have to ta It has more people than Philadelphia and it covers alm uch land as the city of London. I ectric car lines put together would r as from New York to Bal its streets are two-thir those of Chicago. But we can rid There are hu horse cabs that will charge us 50, kronen an hour. Don’t shiver! That amount would have meant $10,000 be- fore the war. It is 60 s now. Or we can go about in in a taxi and be charged by the mater. The register is the same as that used before the world war and we shall have orly to multiply the figures by 7.000 to know the right fare. This will give you some idea of the currency we shall us> on the trip. 1 have a bag half filled with it, for I have just drawn $100 at the bank and the cashier gave me 7,000,000 kronen for that amount. The money was in <hin-plasters with green backs the color of an American bank note. Some of the bills were of a half mi lion each and a good handful or so were of 100,000, 10,000 and under. The 100-kronen notes are each the size of a playing card. Each is worth one- seventh of a cent, and this is enough to satisfy the ordinary beggar. There are still smaller notes, going down to 10 kronen and 1 kronme. It takes 0,000 of the i-krone notes to equal a dollar. Anything under one-seventh of a cent is here known as chicken feed and we can throw it out by the handful and not lose very much. I have never really felt rich before. I may say also it makes me feel poor. My hotel bill for the week came in this morning. It was over 5,000,000 crowns, or what when T last visited only cen sty Vienna ten years ago would have ! been $1.080,000. Think of spending a million cold plunks for a week at & tavern! But, after all, this is only $7 a day, and it includes two fine rooms and two baths and the break- fasts for myself and secretary. I find T have to watch my hotel bills. I laboriously count the great sheaves of bank notes when I settle, and the accounts are now and then short. So far 1 have found none in my favor. I had a queer experience last week in Munich. It is, as you know, famous for its good beer, and to sample the beverage I ordered a glass. It came in & pitcher that con- talned nearly & quart. I had worked my way down through the foam and drunk one or two gills when I dis- cevered a fly floating about under my nese, I called the head waiter and showed him the fly. He threw up his %andf, grabbed the pitcher and order- ed the waiter to bring me another one. I drank some of that and when the bill was brought in found that both - glasses were charged. I pro- tested, but the waiter said I would have to pay. But said I: “The first glass had a fly, and the head -waiter took it away.” “But the fly was not in it when 1 brought it out of the kitchen. T shall have to charge for both glasses,” sald he. “Go and ask the head waiter,” said L | He did so, and came back saying I would have to pay for the two glasses of beer. 1 consented, provided he would mark on the bill that one glass had a fiy in it. He objected, but see- ing that I would not pay otherwise and he would lose the five cents in question, he did so and 1 have that bill as a relic. It reads: “1 glas bier ohne fliege, 3500 marks,” and “1 bier mit fliege, 3500 marks.” The two items made 7,000 marks and today mean just 10 cents American. ok ok % UT Vienna is waiting. We shall be- gin our walk at St. Stephen's place, !in the heart of the city. It is a spot { well known in history. It had houses in the days of the Romans and there were stores here when Charlemagne {was a baby. In the days of Maria { Theresa and long after the time when | Napoleon occupied Vienna there were | great walls running round this place as a center. The walls were almost 200 feet wide and more than three {miles in length. Several years before {our civil war they were taken away, |and in their place are circular streets, {which are cut by others runing out | from St. Stephen's place like the spokes lof a sheel. The city, in fact, is & | gigantic spider-web with St. Stephen's | place in the center. But what is that crowd on the cor- ner of this great square in which the mighty cathedral stands? They are looking up at the spire, which is & gi- gantic stone finger - pointing toward { heaven, with gothic projections clear to its tip. We take our glass and look up. Some daring man is trying to climb the great structure. He looks a little more than a bug away up there in the blue. But there are steps inside the tower. They number only 533. We go in and walk round and round through the darkness, past the great bell on the second story, which weighs twenty tons, jand finally come out with all Vienna before us. We look to the four points of the compass. That great stream at the right, with its long string of barges, mere toy boata in the distance, Is the mighty Danube, which rises in the mountains of Germany and winds its way past Vienna, Budapest and on down through Hungary, Jugoslavia, Bulgarla and Rumania to the Black sea. It is the second river of Europe. 1t Is a thousand miles longer than the Rhine and s navigable all the way from Germany until it flows out into that mighty body of water which washes a great part of South Russia and gives access through the Bosporus to the Mediterranean and thence to the Atlantic. The Danube is one of the great high- ways of water traffic of Europe, and I may eay of the world. ‘It is already connected by canal with the Rhine, and plans are under way which will join it to the Elbe and the Oder, so that the North sea and the Baltic will add to the traffic. Now turn around and look o the west. With the glass you can see the Alps, but you cannot distinguish the passes which show that Vienna is on the great trade route from Italy, by which much of the Mediterranean traf- flc goes to the morth. If you could sweep your glass around the compass you would see also that there are Sther passes through the Carpathians and that this towm Is in the basin where all the low lines of traffic come % Many Changes Observed as Visitor to Capital of New Republic Wanders Through Its Streets—What the Hapsburgs Have Contributed to the Nation—Empress Elizabeth and Her Swimming Pool—Francis Joseph’s Preference for a Ten-Dollar Bed—Holiday Crowds Enjoy Luxury at Famous Schonbrunn—Costly Palace Is Rented for $200 a Year. “THE UNIVERSITY OF VIENNA OCCUPIES A GREAT CJII'NGRESSIONAL LIBRARY. IT HAS OVER 450 PR together. Indeed it is down grade from all the chief Industrial centers all the way to.Vienna; and it is down grade from Vienna to the Black sea. The railways follow the grades, many of them having been bullt'on the Roman roads that came to this point. 1t is its geographic position which makes ‘this, great city and which will continue to .make it for all time to come. For centuries it has been the meeting place, tHe banking and trading center of east’ and west, of ‘the north and south, and todsy, with the develop- ment golng on in the mew states all about it, it will grow. greater than ever. the rallroads. The transportation of the Danube is being improved by put- ting on motor boats and oil-burning steamers, and in the near future there will be a daily service of hydroplanes It is now planned. to electrify. between Vienna and Budapest. The trip by: boat now takes twelve hours. It will then take less than two, and the fare from one town to the other will be just $7. UT let us go down, hire a horse cab, and -take 2 trot round the Ringstrasse.. Like the boulevards of Paris, it incloses the old city and it is the center of the life, soclety and business of modern Vienna. The street !s twenty-seven feet wider than Pennsylvania avenue ' between the Preasury and the Capitol, and it | 1s just three times that long. It has two great double rows of green trees running. through: it, and ' there are rée roadways for traffic. In ‘addi- tion are the wide flag sidewalks lined with magnificent four and five-story bulldings. Upon the Ring are. the principal ho- tels, with many tables out on the street where men, women, and chil- dren sit and drink coffee and tea as well as beer, wine and sirups while they watch the people go by. A lit- tle farther along'is the Stock Ex- change where they gamble on the rise and fall of the currency, and nearby the mighty .university, which covers as much ground as our National Li- brary and has about 8,000 students. " On other parts of the Ring are the Opera House, which is almost equally large, the' Parliament building, the Hotburg Theater, three or four mag- nificent churches and 80 many mu- seums, art galleries, and other places of note that I canfot mention them here. ’ This part of Vienna is composed of huge bulldings, every one of which has UADRANGULAR BUILDING, WHICH COVERS AS MUCH GROUND AS OUR FESSORS AND LECTURERS AND ABOUT 8,000 STUDENTS.” its history, and which altogether con. tain some of the world's great tre; ures in literature, science, music ana art. One of the finest structures is the Technical HighSchool; others are the Museums of Art-and Natural His- fory with the greatFofiiurg, or. palace of the former empéror, hard by. The whole forms a colléction of treasures which ‘tourists from >verywhere come to see! * Just outside the Ring are many . palaces, embassies, chatesux and great business gtreets with hand- | some apartment hquses HXKe. those of the Ring. e 3 These Viennese aré a strange' eow ple. I have talked with all’ classes, from' the statesmen and bankers who are running the politics andmoney matters of the republic down to the men and women who werk at so many kronen per ‘ay for thelr bread. I (have | star performance ked them about the future of their ofty, and what it has to still make it great. They talk at first about trade, but a moment later drift into boasting of Vienna as an art and musical center, and as a city which the whole world should see. It seems to me they are more proud of their musical attractions anything else. The whole breathes music. Y most any important street any night a concert or opera that would be a in any large city of the United States. The: re a half dozen opera houses, and small theaters where music s the chief feature. There are band con- certs in the parks, and almost every hotel has excellent music at dinner. The two great opera houses here are famous the world over. The Im- perial Opera, which is partly sup- ported by the government, has as its conductor, Richard Strauss; and the People’s Opera, which is also city ner, who only a few serted Berlin for Vienna. Strauss does not come of the famous Strauss family, headed by Johann Strauss, a native of Vienna, to whose muslo all the world waltzes. It was he who was known as the dance king and it was he who wrote the “Blue Danube” waltz. Richard Strauss is a native of Munich, but his great compositions were composed in Vi- enna. This city was also the home of Gluck, Mozart, Beethoven and Brahms. 1t was here that composed *‘Figaro,” “The Magic Flute,” “Don Juan"-gnd “The Mequi Here Beethoven lived for thirty-five vears and in that time composed almost all his great works, and it Brahms who, although born in Hamburg, said that Vienna was an ideal place for the composition of symphonies. Here today Franz Lehar is living in the house where “The Merry Widow” was written, and here modern light music may be sald to have originated and to have had its development. In the darkest hours of Vienna's star- vation, the operas apd concerts were held right along, and now that the city Is again on its feet, good music is to be found everywhere. * k% X vears ago de- m.” HE art, music and, education of Vienna form a_part of the un- earned increment which the new re- public has’ from the long: reign of the Hapsburgs. Kings and emperors have their advantages: in that they construct mighty bulldings, establish opera houses and theaters, and gather paintings and °sculpture that are ‘practically free to the people. In ad- dition to these, public institutions, Vienna 'now has the palaces of the monarchs themselves with the treas- ures’ which have accumulated during the ages. “The Hapsburgs were one of the old- est of the royal houses of Europe. The :first of them, an old robber- 'baron named Rudolph, took the throne of Austria more than 200 years before Columbus discovered America. 1t was in 1273 when the family began to live at the expense of the people and they have fed at the public orib from that time.to this. And how well they have fed one may know by going through these mighty palaces, every part of ‘which {s now open to all. than | ou can hear in al- | no end of! noted, | is conducted by Felix von Wengart- | Richard | Mozart ; 1 visited, this afternoon, a summer palace wh will not find in the guide books It was buil v Francis Joseph for his wife, the mpress Elizabeth, who was stabbed to death in Geneva by an anarc three or four decades ago. After- ward it was used as a ®ort < hunting lodge by the family up 1 the time of the war. This paluce consists of a cream-colored brick building of the dimenst, side hotel and it has of 7.000 nificent itt bout it a t acres of forests with ma lawns and long windly bridle paths and roadw It filled with beautiful paintings, and one great hall had its ceiling a walls painted by great artists with scenes from Shake&peare fidsum- er Night's Dream.” It has some splendid furniture, including heds as wide as the great bed of Ware, and also a plain_simple room which wa the emperor's own. This room that of a hermit. Francis Joseph had no frills and furby about him and his bed was of a three-q size and made of sheat fron. I can buy any number just like it in ar town in America for $10 aplec I asked in vain for the bathroc and was told there was none. T is so notwithstanding the gre building s lighted by electricity am told T am the first newspaper who has ever gone through this es- tablishment. I had access through the present lessee, who telis me he gets it at a bargain, paving what in American money Is just a vear for the great grounds. The great palace at Schonbruns and the vast structures occupled the emperors in the heart of V are now thrown open to who tramp through with hats o hats off as thgy please and stare at the plctures. The government charges a fee, except on certain days. Schonbrunn was where the em- peror lived in summer and it accessible only during his absence It is now the great holiday resort of the people. There were thousands moving about through the grounds when I went there last Sunday. The swimming pool covers at least h an acre and is so‘deep that any on but a glant like Goliah, who was. as T remember, nine feet and nine inches tall, would droyn in it. I found it filled with meil and women swimming about at an admission fee of a few cents per head. This pool was sacred to the empress, and she had it made deep, for she was o of the great royal athletes of time. She loved to hunt and ride and swim; and I venture if she could have had a fair chance at that an- archist he weuld not have been able to accomplish het death. The palace of Schombrunn has o park of 500 acres of woods &urround- ing its magnificent gardens. The palace stands on the site of a hunting lodge erected in 1570 and the present butlding was begun in 1696. Maria Theresa often lived there, and the present form was largely the result of her planning, belng modeled after Versullles. The building itsclf is not large for a palace. It is a two-story structure only 650 feet long. There are seats round the garden, which contains perhaps twenty acres of lawns and beautiful flowers (Carpentet's World Travels, Copyright, 1924.) was ws house sightse was