Evening Star Newspaper, August 26, 1923, Page 79

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., AUGUST 26, 1923—PART 5. Straight and Narrow Is the Path of the Frocks Being Offered This Season BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. EW fashions come tumbling in like surf on an autumn beach. None is sensational to our worldly wise eyes, for each has shocked us in its time and faded into the familiar commonplace. Those of us who have seen summer beaches banked with women wearing bathing suits which were merely loin claths below the waist and suspenders above, have ceaved to gasp or to ex-| claim. Let women dress as they will is the' weak cry of the reformer. The reporter, as usual, goes to the work of reporting. This season there is much to tell, and more is inevitable . as the autumn gets into its stride. The annual touch of anxiety is occa- sloned by the. persistence of the straight cylinder gown. Its revival after the dressmakers’ insistence upon the circular skirt is sufficiently spaced from its last appearance to give it & meakure of novelty. . Truly, women look out to the skin in the new clothes. Plaited or plain, they appear to be weighted at the hem. When belts are added they are so narrow that they might be a bit of fancy stitching. The best dressmakers in Paris, however, make immensely wide skirts of tulle covered with small ruffies. Chanel continues her many-tiered skirt, but Callot and Jean Patou have the courage to offer instep-length ekirts six ang eight yards wide. It is probable that a sharp dis- tinction will be made between eve- ninz and street clothes in the sil- houette of the skirt. Sleeveless bodies are still worn in the sunlight, but France will put in long sleeves us autumn deepens, so the diffarence between night and day clothes will have to come in the length and width | of skirts. This is especially neces- sary if fabrics are to be identical in both sets of clothes. Women have ceased the custom of having a “Sunday best.” They go to business in lovely silks, velvets, crep: Also, they go to dinner, dences, card parties in them. The dressmakers are antagonistic to this sameness. Probably that is the rea- son they have Introduced Really. a woman would be wear it to the office. mad to * ¥k % % | T is quite possible that the circular | skirt will vanish. leaving the field to the cylinder skirt for the sunlight and the Victorian one for the electric lights. The tight. fitted bodice rises above the wide, ruffled skirt. It is moder- | ately long-waisted, sometimes em- | broidered in Chinese flowers, again in white crystals. { The struggle to revive the bustle | in the form of a glorified bow of ribbon has died down. It may not be dead, merely quiescent, arising to aftright us in midwinter. Another fashion scheduled to dis- | appear Is the full flounce as a finish | to a long, tight skirt. Ugliest of all | spring tricks was this. repetition in cheap clothes wherever masses of women foregathered wearled the eye. It gave an awk- ward contour to the body. It should never have been survived from an un- gracious clothes period. yet when we #aw it for the first time a vear ago in the salons of Cheruit. in Paris, we liked it. The furthest thought from our reportorial minds was that ! tulle. | Its tiresome | be used as bands, as cufts and collar: Even now, in warm weather, black astrakhan is used to outline the edges of white alpaca irock conts. A gown of fine white eyelet embroidery by Martial & Armand of Parls has its skirt ruffles banded with black ‘fur. Fur wraps, short or long, are apt to have flat flounces superimposed on them. Capes of peltry swing from shoulder to hips like one huge ruffle, sometimes-giving chest protection by a slender vest. © Fur pockets ‘have not reappeared, nor minute ornaments heavily em- broidered against the ma L Gold braid and patches of fur do not at- the American manufacturer would | seize upon it to reproduce over the | continent like a 25-cent “movie” film.} You never can tell. | Fur will again make its mark as ornamentation. Several kinds are to | tach themselves to jackets. Possibly the dressmakers used up thier sup- ply of odds and ends last winter. They are free to start with fur by the yard, not the inch. Decoration with peltry, however, was most alluring. Ithad a fifteenth century alr that 1ifted a garment from the level, * kX % T is said in Paris that beaded em- broidery on frocks is finishedgibut experience inclines one to beMeve that America will not let go of it without the use of = wrench. It is possible that the Russian in- fluence ‘has reached the vanishing TAILORED SUIT WITH NEW THREE-QUARTER COAT LINED WITH PRINTED CREPE TO MATCH HAS A DEEP HEM TO MATCH THE FROCK, WHICH, IN TURN. THE CLOTH OF THE COAT. pofnt. Even the horizontally banded sweaters have given way to the checkerboard ones, with and without sleeves. The later fashion is another tornfent to the eyes, by reason of its endless chain at summer resorts. Pity we pound a style to death before it has served its purpose. Russia, however, lifting her finger from garments, has placed it on mil- linery. Those tiny turbans that threaten to disfigure the large face and the middle-aged woman, have become as- tonishingly like Russlan weddng bonnets, semetimes like tlaras. In the former shape, when reasonably wide of brim, they are apt to be a rival of the helmet. ‘The sliced brim is a feature of new hats. It s shown on the cloche which covers the heads of half the women one sees. It makes the jockey cap even more conspicuous. This visored hat, with its sectional crown, is the most difficult to wear of all the season’s shapes. It needs vouth znd bravado. Of course, it will be popular. Hundreds of women will flatter themselves by wearing it. Paul Poiret was responsible for its Arst exploitation, and the story goes in the Latin Quarter of Parls that he Seized upon the idea through a remarkable young mannequin in his house. She was an artist's model jalro. One day she wore a jockey's cap over her short, sleek black halr. Poirct saw it, presented its duplicate { to his smart clientele and it became the fashion for the elect minority. No such happy little story Is con- nected with its present revi 1t | simply came up to the surface with | all the other tiny shapes. It is now of black plush or velvet as often as not. Gold braid or col- ered galloon used to turn the pointed crown into sharply designed Into a world already full of vexa- tious problems for parents, came the motor car. The children were great- Iy interested in it, of and learned to drive i Children should learn motor car. It is part of an Ameri- can child's education. He should know how to clean it and repair it and drive it cour: to ‘drive a However, in the driving of it there lies many a vexed situation. Of course, the younger children do not cven ask to drive, but the young peo- ple of the family look upon it as r right. which is all that they im it to be under certain circum- stances. If the young weman who wished to drive the car is willing to do so under the traffic rules and regulations there is no reason why she should not be_allowed to do so. Women can drive cars with the sams care and efciency as men of their class. If it were only the traf- fic regulations that were under con- sideration the youngsters might drive as much as they please! Things aren't as simple as that, though. They never are. When the youngsters ask for the use of the car in the evening, saving they are going |to a dance at one of the country clubs, one is inclined to say yes. Why not? The country club lies in the out- sections, which is an improvement on slices ot fabric in opposing colors, after the true jockey style In the plentiful showing of new autumn hats there is evidence that the helmet with an oblong crown and flat-spreading . ribbon bow. haa not been shelved. Again it Is in col- ored’ felt. White suede with white grosgraln ribbon varles the collection of black, brown and beige. The high turban of the orient had a short and merry life, but the ban- danna turban will last. You can roll your own as smart Parisiennes have done for a decade, or the miliner is glad to do it for you. Rolling your own glves the chance to own several turbans. Odds and ends of crepe, of satin, of brocade can be turned to head coverings if you acquire the knack or trick of the southern negro in twisting a gay cotton strip around the head. * % ok % PTHE three-plece sult goes on its =i Way rejolcing. It has assumed the characteristicd of the costume known as “the commuter’s delight”” The skirt hem matches the coat and ex- tends to it. The lining of the coat matches the blouse, which is rarely a blouse—more often it is the upper part of the frock. Women who like a variety of blouscs fn a winter sult deepen the hem of the skirt and attach it to a pinafore of matching silk. It's a simple trick that serves well. The three-quarter coat is estah- lished. Tt is straight and slender; it flares at the knee-length hem; it has tiers put on in sections. Jeanne lanvin sends over a curlous coat through a manufacturer. Its cloth is covered with spider-web tracery which looks like footprints on the sand, as one expert sald. The sleeves are arresting. Lanvin must “ha skirts of the town, often thirty miles away. Lonely roads lead to it. Should |an aceident befall the car the chil- dren are miles from assistance and often have to walk to gad it | Or they may be at the club and | have to send miles for help. The hours pass and it is morning | before they et home to a family that | has been fretting for hours. | "It is all very well for the children |to say that they were perfectly safe. arents do not feel that way about it_ They have fears that the children | know nothing about. They scold and | say that the car cannot be used for any more such expeditions. Then the young man comes along just about twilight and asks that the | young lady go with him for a spin or |a dance or whatever. He looks very daring and charming in his low- bodied, bright-colored car for two. The girl wants to go and one hates to say no. Still one should! Cars travel so {much farther from home than the horse that drew your buggy on sum- | mer evenings used to do. The horse | never got pungture or ran short of gas or fell dead thirty miles from no- where. It would seem that any car that took young people away for a long trip should carry an older person along for ballast. The young man with a car for two doesn’'t exactly qualify for the job of driving a young lady in her teens. At least that's the t looks to me. (Copsright, ) been looking at the fascinating el- bow cushions of Chinese ladies and mandaxins which a few canny tour- ists are bringing home from Peking. The lower parts of the sleeve are like these cushions when they are stuffed to look like ripe melons. She doesn’t use stiff old brocade with fantastic ribbon to form the sections. Pity she dldn’t.” Maybe some Ameri- can dressmaker will, It's curious, by the way, that tour- Jo Y EARLY AUTUMN GOWN OF WHITE EYELET EMBROIDERY, ITS TIERED SKIRT EDGED WITH BANDS OF BLACK ASTRAKHAN. New Republic of Finland Prepared to Repel Any Military BY FRANK G. CARPENTER. HELSINGFORS. URING my stay in Finland 1 have talked with many lead- ing men as to the perpetuity of the republic. There are| some who doubt its success and prefer a constitutional monarchy. A few feel that their destiny is wrapped up in that of Russia. and that when Rus- | sia becomes stable, it will send an army here to recapture the former province in order to have a better outlet to the Baltic and the Arctic ocean as well. The fact that (here’ are six political parties in existence | shows the diversity of opinion, but I am told that if Finland is ever at- tacked, the whole people will come to her defense. In the meantime the country is growing. Mr. Paloheimo, a leading financier here, believes that the population will be doubled within twenty years, and Vaino Tanner, one of the soclal democrats of congress, also predicts an even greater increase. He says the Finns know they have a great property, and they expect to do all they can to develop it. Finland is about three-fourths the #lze of Germany, and it has about one- twentieth as many people. Much of the country will never be cultivated, but there are large areas that can be cleared and turned into farms. In connection with a possible af- tack by the Russians of the future the army of Finland becomes very irfportant. It has now about 27,000 men and is twice as large as it wag in 1920. In addition is the civil guard, corresponding to our militia, which has 100,000 men. The latter force is | well armed and cquipped. It has drills every Sunday and encampments and maneuvers at certaln times of the vear. The soldiers are fine-looking. They are fair-haired, straight stocky. They have uniforms of light Bray. % I have just had a chat_with Gen. Enckel, the chief of staff of the army, in his office at the war department, as to how the Finns might defend their country in time of . The general 1s omeé of the live, énergetic young men of the republic. Tall and straight and as lean as a rall, he does not weigh more than 130 pounds. He Jooks to be about thirty-five years of age, but as he was on the general staff of the Russian army before the war, and was chief of the military mission to Italy, I judge he is older. * ok ox * | could easily ! had and |. longed to the old army of 1903, and We now have three divisions, each containing three battalions. a regi- ment of fleld artillery and several companies of machine guns. two regiments of cavalry, a regiment of technical troops, heavy artillery, a | tank corps.” “Is your asked. “I think so. The Fin re natural soldiers. They are sound and healthy. They learn quickly and ob well They show a soldierly respect to their officers, and are contented. incre the army if we the officers and equipment to regiment and also a flying army well trained?” do Military service is compulsory. All are called to the colors at the age of seventeen, and after twenty the peace service period is eighteen months. After that the man goes into the reserves for five years and can be called upon at any time until he reaches forty-five.” “How about winter traininz “That is an important feature of the service,” said Gen. Enckel. “As you know, our country is covered with lakes and streams, and the win- HEN the war closed he came to Finland, and he naw leads the army. In response to my questions he said: -, “On the whole I am satisfied” with our progress. We had something of & military organization before the war, but in 1903 the Russiens began to denationalize Finland. They abol- Ished our military schools, and from then -until. 1918 we' hgd no military training. The Finns® were not al- Jowed to have any troops except those furnished by Russia, and it' was only after we, assisted by the Germans, overcame the red Russians and estab- lished our independence that we tried to bulld up a military force. We rted it with the Finns who be- i We have | 1 We | THE OTHER NEW REPURLICS | Has Fine Army and Is Able to Meet Aggression on Part of Russia—Leader of Forces Dis- | | ter fighting would have to be done on th ce. Our soldiers are as much at | home thcre as upon dry land. They re trained to march upon snowshoes | and skis and they have ski drills during | the winter.” I you | asked | 0. any bolshevists 1 The civil guards are a pro- | tection against bolshevism. They are! lall patriotism only. based upon love of country, and its battle cry is “Finland for the Finn | You cannot have bolshevism with a | motto like that. Our people have seen what bolshevism has done for Russia, and there is no prospect of its ever gaining a foothold here.” “In case of war with Russia could volunteers and they work for THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. NICHOLAS, WHOSE GREAT DOMES CAN BE SEEN ALL OVER HELSINGFORS, WAS BUILT BY THE CZAR AS A PART OF HIS CAMPAIGN TO RUSSIANIZE FINLAND AND OF THE BALTIC. Copyright by Carpenter’s World Travels, The organization is | | Finland be defended? = The Russians have tens of milllons of people; You have only three.” “I think s0,” was the reply. “Our country is such that it would be diffi- cult to march large armies across it. | Most of Finland is all woods, streams, swamps and lakes. The roads are comparatively few and an invading army would have to cross streams {at every few miles where there are ample means of ambush and of harassing the enemy in every way. This makes a small army effective. It can move lightly and go across the country, while the large army of in- vasion is limited to the roads in ex- istence or to those it makes. In go- ing over the morasses or through the forests it must move in small units | which the small defensive army ‘can wipe out.” T ERE the general showed me a milktary map of Finland with its thirty-five thousand and odd lakes and its swamps everywhere, which are many islands of trees. Our great danger,” continued Gen. Enckel, “is from the sea. We have an | enormous coast line on the south and west, places where a Russian fleet might | bombard our coast. We expect to ! improve our fortifications, however, and with the flying machines and other changes in modern warfare, I feel that we are. comparatively safe.” “Will you ever have trouble with Norway and Sweden?" ““I do not think §0,” replied the chief of statr. L' “Raclally the Finns and the Swedes are more nearly allied than the Finns and the Russjans. Geographically we are a part of Scandinavia rather than of Russia. The Scandinavians are friendly to us, and they are glad to have a buffer $tate between them and the Russians. You will remember we had a dispute with Sweden over the Aland Islands and that %y mutual agreement we referred this to the league of nations. Bath nations ac- cepted its judgment and that act marked the first success of the league erting wa 3 s to the Russiang themselves. continued Gen. Enckel, “we have al- ways been more or less independent of them. Finland did not belong to Russia in the same was the other prov- Inces of that empire. It was a grand duchy, with its own constitution and practical autonomy in its internal affairs. It had a national diet com- posed of the nobles, clergy, burghers and pearants. Both sexes had the right to vote and in many ways we practically governed ourselves. As it 19 mow, the chief powers of the world among | and there are many landing! have recognized our independence, and I feel that we have come to stay &s a live, active force in the soclety of | nations.” In the meantime Finland is grow- ing industrially and agricultural Much of the land belongs to the state and this is being divided up into farms. The forests are practically all government property. The govern- ment owns more than one-third of | the whole country, d out of 32,000,000 acres of woods' more than | 30,000,000 belong to the state. The water powers are being developed and most of the homes of the people are lighted by them. Even in the coun- try districts electricity has taken the | place of steam. It runs the farming machinery, grain mills and saw mills, and thousands of pigs and cows eat thelr evening meals by the electric light. Large power stations are now |being erected which supply elec- tricity to country places over a dis- tance of hundreds of miles. 1 spent a part of this week in Tam- merfors, one of the liveliest of the manufacturing centers. It is sltuated about 116 miles northwest of the capi- tal, and I went there by rail. 1 was about the only first-class passenger, although the fecond class was well filled. The rallroad is excellent and Ithe service is good. The gauge is the same as that of Russia, and the rolling stock {s made here in Finland. The stations are of wood painted white, with platforms of paved cobbles held in place by a coping of granite. My ticket was printeq in Finnish and Swedish, and all of the signs at the stations were in these two languages. Our locomotive burned wood, and at every stop we found cord wood piled up for the trains. * ok ok ¥ 3 TINLAND has a good railway sys- tem. Nearly every town can be reached in that way, the roads being laid out with & view to the develop- ment of the country. The rallways are owned by the state. They are economically operated and they bring in about one-fourth of the national revenues. . The railway stations are good. Nearly every one has its restaurants and connected with them are little stores for selling newspapers and books. The local industries are often displayed at the depots, each having a sort of museum, as it were, adver- tising the community. The food in the restaurants is good | and cheap. One is expected to help himself at the counter. Ted is served in glasses, just as in Russia, and coffee in cups. Cream is supplied from a pitcher that stands on the coumter. cusses Defense—Soldiers Drill on Snowshoes and Skis—Unlikely to Have Trouble With Nor- way and Sweden—Cows Eat Evening Mleals by Electric Light From Water Power—Cotton Mills Run by Cord Wood. The man who wants some in his coffee or tea takes as much as he pleases. My last lunch consisted of a sandwich and some rolls, cakes and coffee, the whole cost a nickel. The bread and butter here is es- pecially good. Finland its butter, and its dairy industry is growing. A great deal of butter is shipped from'here to Denmark and thence to England as Danish butter. The chief butter-exporting city is Hango, at the southwestern end of the peninsula, where there are many large creameries. Much of the cream is frozen into a mush, in which state the farmers ship it to Hango by rail. Most of the daily business Is co- operative, and this feature of farm industry is rapidly growing. Tammerfors is the Manchester of Finland. It is a textile center having large cotton factories, linen mills and and | is noted for! plants that make paper out of pulp and rags. It has a steel plant which turns out locomotives and rolling stock for the Finnish railways, and smaller industries of various kinds. The town is perhaps the manufac- turing center farthest north. It is about one hundred miles or so from the Baltle, and its latitude is about that of Mt. MecKinley, Alaska. Sur- rounded by forests, it lies at the junc- tion of two long narrow lakes con- nected by the Tammerkoski river. This has a fall of sixty feet, with a drop of about twenty feet right here in the city itself. This fall gives a great water power, which to by the steam produced from the cord wood of the forests floated in on the lakes in barges and boats. The cotton mills of Tammerfors are especially interesting. There is one of 30,000 spindles operated with wood, and another of 90,000 spindles run by electricity generated by water power. Think of running a big cotton mill with cord wood! TLet the wood be birch and pine sticks cut in the win- ter and sledged over a lake 120 miles long to the factory. Let it come in on barges and be thrown into the fur- naces by hand. and you have one of the wonders of this Baltic republi During my visit to this mill I looked at its wood pile. It covers an THE PAPER MILLS OF TAMMERFORS WERE FAMOUS WHEN THE UNITED STATES WAS STILL A COLON THEY FURNISH THE BANKNOTE PAPER FOR MOST OF THE EUROPEAN COUN- TRIES, AND EXPORT NEWS.PRINT TO SOUTH AMERICA AND @opyright by Carpenter's World Travels, jserve as a separate wrap; is added{ ists to China are bringing back more alluring and extraordinary things than the merchants do. Evidently our smart wo shop better and have a keen e of novelty than the buyers sent by the big importers. The carved snuff bottles, for irisfance, which our women buy for scent bottles, have no equals even in the Paris shops. Back to the three-quarten coat: is heavily furred when it is to slightly g0 when it Is part of a tailored sult. (Copyright, 1928.) —_— Irene’s Trip. Irene lived in a good sized c had few opportunities to get ac= quainted with the life and ways of the country, but the few che had she made the most of. She was fifteen years old and strong for her age. It w ing the close of the summer vacation when she received a fat letter from her friend in the country. fother,” called Irene in glad ex- citement. “Clalre says 1 can have a job on her place picking and packing apples. She says I can live with her and work with her, and be paid for R! I start right away. Can I, mother?” “What? Go away three weeks?” “Why, yes. I'll be at Claire’s house.” “But you never stayed away from me for a night in your life. 1 should think You'd be afraid. “There's nothing to Can’t T go, mother?” We'll have to:see what your father sayk. I -don't like this going away from home at all. “Nowadays children seem to think that the further they can get from thelr parents the better. I'm sure:we try to do our best for Banit ‘Of course you do mother, and I am happy! I just want to go to Claire's for three weeks and pick apples. T'd love ft!” “That's what I say—you'd love to get away from home. T cam't under- stand the right sort of girl wanting to get away from her mother.” “I'm not wanting to get away from my mother,” retorted Irene in impa- tiénce. “I'm only wanting to go out and pick apples and I can’t do that in my own back yard. can 17" “That's right. Now be impudent to your own mother if she speaks to you. Tm sure I don't know why people have children! They. only wound their mother’s heart.” Then Irene began to cry. She did want to go to the country and visit her old friend and work in the apple orchard. Now her mother was mak- ing it impossible for her to go; and with not a reason in the world. Stop crying.” sald her mother. “Of course, if you've set vour heart on going you'll have to go. I don't | want you moping about the house for {the next three weeks and feeling all the time that vou think vourself abused. Go on and get your job, and perhaps when you come back you'll appreclate your mother more.” There are many mothers like that, I'm afraid. They take all the pleas. {ure out of the undertaking before giving their consent. It is not that | they do not love their children enough to try to make them happy. It is not that they are afrald that the children will suffer. On the contrary, it is because they fear that they themselves will suffer by the child's absence. Golng from home among friends is as fine a bit of training as a child can get. Whenever such an oppor- tunity offers let them take advantage of it. They will come back the better for it, if the only thing they have learned is that home is best! = (Copsright, 1923. nen It She and big near- from home for be afraid of. Mary Up-to-Date. Mary had a little lamb, You've heard this tale before; But have you heard she passed her plate, And had a little more? Invasion acre and is as high as a ten-story flat. It takes about 20,000 cuble yards every year, and the managers figure that six cubic yards equal one ton of coal. This cotton mill has eight hundred employes, mostly women and girls. They get wages of 30 cents a day, and their hours of work are from 7 to 11 and 12 untii 4. The spinning rooms are a maze of b‘!ls and mov- ing machines. Thirty thousand |spindles are whirling around, and |scattered among them are these {blond-haired. blue-eyed daughters of Finland. Some are young and many are good looking. They wear bright handkerchiefs around their heads,® shirt walsts and short skirts, and ]';\Imost all are barefooted. The mlil owner told me that one-seventh of the births of | llegitimate. the community are He does not consider it a disadvantage for a girl to have one 1child. 1f she has two it is a draw- back, and when she has three she is no good as a worker. 1 * Kk ok ok | HE mills make every kind of cot- ton cloth, turning out calicoes, tablecloths. sheeting and everything demanded by the Finnish market. It competes on even terms with Man- chester, England. and with Germany over the wAy. The raw cotton now comes from the United States, some of it direct and some via Liverpool. | Before the world war it was sup- plied by Russia, but then that supply was cut off, and the blockade mads it impossible to get in American cot- ton by way of the Baitic. Never- theless the Finns kept the mills going by sending ships' from New Orleans into the Arctic ocean and hauling the bales south over the ice and snow. | They had three hundred miles of | sledding between the port and the railway, and eight hundred horses were needed to haul the loads. The amount imported that way was five thousand bales, and the frelght alone 10 cents a pound. Leaving the cotton mills, T went through several of the big paper fac- tories run by the raplds, all of the machinery being operated by elec-; tricity. One of these mills ~was | founded before our Declaration of Independence was signed. It is still using rags, and it furnishes the paper for the banknotes for most of the bankrupt nations of Europe. It supplies book paper for England and fancy writing paper for Paris. Some of the other mills are making wood pulp, and the town ships news print to Rlo de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, Yoko- hama and Shanghal. Finland is one of the blg paper supply points of {he world. It sends wood pulp to all parts of the con- tinent, and just now it is furnishing a great deal of paper to Russia, the establishment of the alleged freedom of the press having increased the Russian demand. The output of wood pulp now runs into hundreds of thousands of tons. (Copyright,” 1023, Carpenter's World Travels -