Evening Star Newspaper, July 9, 1922, Page 59

. ) t , member that there were colors in this White and Brown HE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON.- D. = won R Orchid Shade Has | Is Abandoned. % k 2 e ! b el bies 72 S50 USSIAN 1dea- of Color and Simplicity Helped Out a Dull Season, Says Fash- Authority—Some Predictions in the Line of Fashions—White Crepe de Chine Coat Suits aind Large White Hats—Mauve and Purple Will Come Back. Wide Poularity in Paris—A Ribbon Season—Cheerful Black i SPORT GOWN OF WHITE CREPE DE CHINE COPIED FROM A | SUCCESSFUL BLACK SATIN MODEL. THE SLEEVELESS JACKET SHOWS | A RIP-LENGTH BLOUSE OF WMNITE ORGANDIE, FINISHED WITH | PLEATED FRILLS EXAGGERATED AT WRIST. SUNSHADE NAT 18 OF WHITE STRAW FAUCED WITH BROWN. PARASOL IS OF WHITE ORGANDIE STRIPED WITH BROWN. BY ANNE RITTENNOUSE. HE Russian idea in coloring and simplicity of design was AN interesting development fn A dull season. It came over America with the auddenness of & &torm on a calm day..One can liken whatever is Russian 10 a storm with- out exaggeration. Even the cos- tumery seems to signify thunder. lightning, wind and hail. The designers were delighted with this exciting turn to & stagnant sea- | son. Women had worn black for sev- eral years without appearing to re- started a rebellion by using plain colors in simple clothes. American women at the best class of pleasure places, as in the streets, did the same. In France the limelight thrown on Russtan costumery induced dozens of women to go bask to black frocks. | Over here women went back to gray to mauve, to white. | Every one agrees that a bit of the Russian brilliancy is enlivening in a dull world. But too much of it colorful world; theéy had worn the straight flour-dag frock with {ts ob- long neckline until illustPators and designers beat the air in vaim They began to wonder if the middle’ ages would really come upon uk in more things than plague and war. : They urged women to0 remember that ft was a choatic time, ome ‘in which all things were overturning and somersaulting, thetéfore fash: jeae In clothes should do likewise. 77 crashes against the nervous system like a child Msistently striking the keys of a plano. So the ncw story In fashion has to deal with the rebellion | againet too much coloration. Yester- They urged revolt. Women listened, Jooked at pictures and went out and bought black chemise frocks. It was no use. Obstinacy and stagnation went hand-in-hand. You can see for yourself, therefore, what a burst of excitement wa: caused by the Russian {dea. It came upén America as ths political révolu- tion came upon Russia, EE THEN the ‘thing that was prophe- sled happened. - Women wearied of it. It was too conspicuous, for the manufacturérs saw ‘in {t°'a half dosen ways to get out of a quagmire; dress shop ‘windows saw & chance to make colors® scream ' through - the glass to the public; the embroiderers saw a chance to make more money by deco- rating” everything from a plece of common unbleached muslin: to-tinsel lke- that which fell upon the world three decades ago, when every oné¢ who could ‘buy s paiat drush decorated their household trifies: Marguerites were painted-on frying pans which- hung by green ridbdons on thé parior wall Milk stools were painted.with poppies and placed in the dining room.. Every- thing that could Bear & bit of painted «color, was compelled to bear.it. Then, suddenly, some force threw swida the windows, Iet in the sunshin ghrew the frying pans and milk #too! and macrame lambdrequins into the Pack yard. Simpliclty prevatied. Quiet reigned in interior decoration. Something in that manner has hap- fpehed to the Russian colors and em- ‘Drofderies "to American clothes. In _*VJ AR A | |SUNSHADE HAT WITH A WHITE STRAW BRIM 0 F PURPLE AND A CROWN RIBBON AND BOW OF MAUVE FELT. THE LATTER FABRIC IS NOW FASHIONABLE AS A TRIMMIN no ] ruffles. some of them run through with tinsel at the edge. There are »me- | short jackets or purple crepe braid- ve | cd with purple soutache. The reappearance of soft felt for hat and gown crnamentation brings mauve and purple into the milliners' America there was thusiasm shown for the it was accepted day thing of a striking fa 5 tulle evening gowns with girdles of | fiat pink silk roses trailing at one s te the revival of the color. special en- foring, but it |day the story told of an uprising | against black. What a world! ‘ * % * ' CE upon a time, when many wege | young and some were not born, there was a widespread fashion for combination of brown and white in think more of ribbon than America. The reason s too obscure to find. The truth sufces. % x SUDDIINLY out of a ribbon season there came this fashion for crown bands and loops of colorad felt. Mauve is uséed, also purple, and pale green, leat brown, beige and black are séén. There is a successtul sunshade hat bigger than a Victorian arasol, which is bullt of purple straw with a low crown surrounded by a band of mauve falt. Two straight 1oops of the fsit stand buoyantly out at one side. A hat that has reached genuine popularity in Paris is a tiited shape with a wide brim of black straw with a white felt band that reaches out in two stiff loops. One loop reaches to an exaggerated height. Caroline Reboux of Paris, who has partially dominated the headgear of American women for two years, has launched a felt hat in moderate siie, with & brightly colored pirate’s hand- Uric Acid in Fact and Fiction. Medical science is a very young celence, the medical art is one of the most ancient arts of man. Medical theories have often proved wrong, and then again they have often proved right. That a mere medical theory &hould ever turn-out to have been right, when medical science proves it -to have been right, is & wonderful thing 1o contemplate, and I doubt that any other important human endeavor can compare with Thedieine in this re- spect, for generally art follows meek- ly after science instead of pointing and leading the way through the outer darkness. In medicine it has ever been the art that has said: "I believe,” “I think” and “I hope," and, Gays or vears or generations later, the #cience that has eaid: “Yes, I know now.” The theory that uric acid is a cause of disease has never won full recog- nition in actual practice. Bo far an medical sciénce has advanced there has been no confirmation of the theory. On the contrary, the evi- dence obtained from actual tests, made under carefuily controlled con- ditions, rathér goes to prove that the cause of gout is not uric acid, al- though it is a fact that so-called “chalky"” deposits in the tissues of the body and about the joints in gout and other diseates are derived from uric acid. Thesé deéposits, lumps or “tophi” aré not chalk, but mostly monorodium urate. There is even some doubt in the ! minds of physicians well informed in science whether uric acid may bé re- lied upon as an indicator for the measurement of the deficient meta- bolism or deficient oxidation in cases of gout and allied diseases Right now it is customary for some physicians to have chemical tests of the blood made to determine, among other thinge, how much uric acid is| present in the blood. When more than the normal amount (which Is only about one-tenth of a grain In each pint of blood in an adult on & purin free diet) is found, the conclu- sion is sometimes drawn that the in- dividual has a tendency toward gouty troubles or joint dis stockings with white shoes| hands. Felt and suede take these women's clothes A family album recently pulled down from a garret shows a photo- graph of a woman of place and | power, taken in the era of brown and white. Youngster though she was, she was proudly exhibiting her white | pique frock with a long golden brown | velvet vest fastened with carved white pearl buttons; there were brown velyet cufts and collar and a white | straw hat with a crown band of brown velvet. She explained her prideful attitude in looking over the old album by saying that every woman in that era | wanted a brown and white frock. and she, who was not sufficiently old enough to be Indulged in a wish for such a fashionable attire, was as vain of her plque and velvet gown as a cat with @ new pink ribbon and bells. The pique and brown velvet com- bination has not yet appeared on the summer beaches and the country club porches. But it may. Brown velvet bands, with startling bows at one side make many a white straw sumé mer hat conspicuous. and there is an alluring white serge coat frock cov- ered with brown embroidery, which shows a vest down front, from neck to hem, of green crepe, fastened with white pearl buttons. There are white crepe de chine coat sults in the heavy weave of crepe with corded. surface, which carry brown crepe de chine linings on the skirt drapery. uch frocks are worn with Immence white hats fashioned in the sunshade idea, the brim faced with brown and a wreath of flat brown silk roses about the crown. There are top coats, loose and cape- like, of white kasha cloth lined with brown organdie blouses, frilled at all the edges to be worn with Wwhite serge and -cloth suits. * X ok x THE combination of the two colors goes further—women: wear light pale brown silk stockings with white. shoes and slippers for sports and | gayety in the open, and a parasol ‘which causes a ripple of excitement even in Paris is made .of white or- gandie striped with brown silk. A striking change in midsummer costumery is the adoption of purple and the revival of mauve.. Some women may say that the latter color ‘was never forsaken by smart women, but every one cannot reckon it among general fashions, although it has been with us for two ycars. The Queen of Rumania is crédited with having brought it and the or- MAUVE, WITH OPEN WORK BEM- FROCK ANDS OF MATERIAL THERE IS A PANEL OF THIS DOWN FRONT OF BODICE AND SKIRT AND A SHORT PANEL ON ACH SLEEVE. mACHeLmEVE | SILK ORGANDY BROIDERY MADE OF B §ts crude state the thing was over- @one. Paris had an “épidemic ‘of 1t #rom January to Apél. -America got 3t from’ April to July, #nd it Is stil ‘\gh‘ strong In cértaih ‘mectors ‘of Aftor France saw the terrifié possi- pilities in overpopularity, her fine de- pigners began to refine the Russlan grudities. The smart set in France chid coloring into full swing in Paris on her first visit since the war. She ‘was in deep black last summer when I.was there and she wore good-look- ing ‘mourning. Her striking face and figure were set off by transparent black gowns and milk-white pearls. Paris followed In her footstepsafter she wore orchids with white and i COAT "lfi(;x‘ OF WHITE: SERGE OVER SLIF OF mm. - ‘oar eov-“ THE BACK AND fINmé. - F I8 1% ] E HAT IS OF GREEN SUEDE WITH mauve crepe d¢ chine gowns. In There colors well.. No women who are in- terested in hats—and some are not, you know-~should fail to make good use of the fact that the soft feit is a substitute for ribbon round the A : Thiw does not mean that ribbon has disappeared. Tt is still’ beloved by France. But one expects Paris’to and mauve linen frocks are combined to make & sport costume. Mauve crepe de chine and organdie are constantly used to face the brim of sunshade hats. Mauve straw even makes a hat. Lace Is dyed vatican purple as well ‘as mauve 10 serve an evening's gay- ' oty. are purple tulle gowns all ——————————————— dividuals who certainly have no such tendency. ‘When & man’s blood contains more uric acld than s good for his health— and feémember ‘that in health’-the blood confains about two and a half grains of uric acid—the excess merely indicates a deficient metabolism, & de-. ficient oxidation process. No one can say off-hand with any degree of cér- tainty that 8 given individual has too much uric acid in ‘his system or that he has too much acid in his sy: tem. Any conjectures as to such mat- ters, without actual chemical analy- sis of the blood, can only lead to blunders in treatment. Except in the hinterland, physicians no longer ace cuse patiénts of having “uric acid in the system” just because the patients present lesions or troubles of the jolnts. Every healthy person has gas in his stomach, uric acid in his ylotl. A\ PERSONAL HEALTH SERVICE By William Brady, M. D. Noted Physician end Awthor. Colors for Midsummer kerchief tied about the brim in a pirate’s knot. ‘This idea was started in cravats. Well dressed women be- §an the season with white lingerie blouses that had rolling collars pull- ed outside the cloth coat, and crava! ran under the collar. Now Reboux has these on hats. Black, red and orange are among the colors. In the rebellion againat crudity of coloration many women have return- ed to black frocks. An unusual nume bér has dotted the social path of life since May. It 18 to be hoped that this ling will not continue, but it is good that the combination of black and vivid colors seems to have gone the way of all fashions. For the time, happlly, it is dead. 1t one wants color in clothes it is wise to gét it without & background of black. If one wants black let the gown and hat be of the solid color, and give up any idea of imparting cheerfuln Such is the verdict of fashion. This does not apply to gold and sitver tinsel, ~ and now and then a little blood In his eye, yet it is not at all necessary for him to dlet, dopg or distress himsell over it QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. Enjoyiag the Ipox. Would smallpox in a person who has a tendency to tuberculosis nephritis?>—(B. D. S.) Answer—Nephritis (Bright's dis-- ease) i® a frequent complication or #wequel of even mild smalipox in any case, as it is of scarlet fever, measles and sometimes chickenpox. But wh have smallpox with vaccination %o cheap? Iron and Vitamina Please glve.me a list of foods which furnish vitamins, and also a list of foods which are rich in iron. 1am a school teacher and wish to use these lists in my class. Answer—I have a few miniature posters which will serve ‘Your purpose well, and 1 shall be glad to send onc on vitamins and another on food iron to you as A teacher If you will pro- vide the freight for them—a self-ad- dressed, stamped envélope of standard size. These items contain ample iron: Wheat, bran. molas: egx yolk, oat- meal, maple syrup, oysters, dried beans, dandelions, peanuts, grecn peas, lettuce, almonds, spinach, entire wheat (wheat as it comes from the thrasher). These items contain am- ble vitamins: Fresh milk, butter, cream, cheese. eggs, tomatoes (raw or canned), cabbage (raw), lettuce, carrots, spinach, dandelion greens. 1iver, buttermilk, whole wheat bread, peas, oranges and orange juice, lem- onade, raspderries, prunes anll apples Miles by Bloeks. I am etriving to carry out your ad- vice—two miles of oxygen on the hoof N three”times & day. Can you tell me how many milés In forty city blocks? ~—iMiss C. P.) Answer—That varies widely, ac- cording to the length of the block. Why not wear a pedometer and record your daily mileage just for fun? A pedometer costs less than a popular novel and is an Incentive to healthfui activity. Novel Handbags. Handbags are ever fascinating bits this of feminine drexs. This season; midsummer geason, at that, they even more\ fascinating than usual. There are many real noveities among them, and many other details that though they may not be truly novel, are, at least, effective and interesting. Moire one of the favored fabrics for handbags. Bags of moire are mounted, sometimes, on ivory frames. sometimes on painted wooden ones. and sometimes they are mounted on covered frames or else are drawn up with regulation bag tops. Beaded bags. too, are still in good faghion, and those of fine workman- ship are always such a feast for the eyes and fingers that they are well worth buying, even though we may be at the end of their long reign of fash- jon. Those with a simple monogram worked in their design are in good style. Jet 18 used in handbags; sometimes big fiat buttons of the jet, cut in square or round form, are fastened flat against heavy moire silk. And there are tassels of jet beads pendant from moire bags. Embroidered black velvet is another good fashion for bags. The velvet is embroidered in tiny steel and jet beads, sometimes mingled with color- ed beads, such as coral or jade green ones. Sometimes the beads are in many colors, worked in designs llke those of a Persian shawl, on the black velvet. For sports wear there are siraw bags, to .go with straw hats and straw-covercd parasols. These are trimmed with silk flowers, in bunches or groups of two or three. Some- times the petals of these roses are puffed up with a cotton wadding stuff- ing, so that they are round and big. The straw used is dyed in bright colort Narrow ruffies, sometimes edgel with little beads, are shown on some of the silk handbags. Silk cord handles are used on A great many of these new bags, though sometimes flai gtrap handles of leath-* or or silk, to match the bag, are used.” Porcelain knobs and catches are used on many of the new bags ol suede and silk. These, of course, har- monize with the rest of the bag in color. ——— Cherry Shorteake. Sift together two cups of flour. & heaping teaspoonful of baking pow: der, two tablespoons of sugal teaspoon of salt. Rub in half a cup- tui of butter and mix'it with a welt beaten egg added ‘to half a cup of milk. Make the dough soft, roll it out labout an ‘inch thick and bake: for about twenty-five minutes. When done, split it carefully, butter well and cover with half of the cherries, from which the stones have been re- maved. Sprinkle with sugar. Butter the, top layer; cover the cherries. sprinkie these,. too,. with powdercd sugar, and serve with whipped cream. The cherries should be very ripe.