Evening Star Newspaper, December 25, 1921, Page 39

yr Short Jackets, Envelo'ping. Capes and Heirloom Laces Are Details of Smartness ONE OF THE NEW SPRING MODLL. IN THE COLLECTION FOR AMERIC AND WHITE FOULARD WITH FL TRIMMED WITH SOUTACHE THROUGH BOTTONHOLE coa BRAID. Ny * JIENNY OF PARIS, SHOWN AN BUY . IT IS MARINE BLUE RING COAT OF BLUE TAFFETA MOTHER-OF-PEARL BELT RUNS | BY A™VE RITTENHOUSE. | NCE in a while a reporter's notebook has a certain in- } terest, and it might supply ‘ just enough of the news of dress to stimulate investigation into the question of fashion on a day like this. Here, then, is a collection of facts gathered up from the source where spring new ideas, as well as from the places where one sees the ideas of the designers placed in ac- tive service. New clothes worn by prove that the knee tected by the coat. to be really warm there must be an added garment. 1t is for this reason tha: so many black satin and broad- cloth cloaks are worn over suits and one-piece frocks. Even fur coats ripple away from the hips as though smart women are not pro- jce and snow belonged to another age, not this one. The shops advocate satin panta- lettes that cover the knees. These are to be worn under street clothes to give the lower part of the body some warmth. The short cape, thickly built, is added to the one-piecg frock as often as the jacket. It is cut circular, is of the skirt material, and lined with heavy crepe or duvetyna. Velvet When one wants! frocks for afternoon carry their own capes, and if they are lined with white, or sand, or mouse gray, so much the better. These capes have no farmholes. They must be wrapped {about the body with the hands and {hela in place. * * ok "TWEED and homespun gowns with thin crepe tops carry these czpes. Others carry that new kind of cape which turns up on itself at the hem and is gathered to a wide belt of the fabrics, which fartens with a buckle in front. This belt tightens the hip- line. Jenny of Paris again produccs | for the {with a full blouse that is held by a jhip belt. The curious touch in t costume is that the jacket is shorter | belt. The jacket has wide pointed inserts over the hips to give the cir- cular effect. The tightly-drawn evening wrap, with its narrow hem and wide shoul- | ders, is giving place to the Victorian circular cape, a fact which was madé quite evident by the sweeping sales during the last week in November. They are of satin or broadcloth, often of velvet. Colors are accepted in the latter fabric, but black remains. the choice for the former. Possibly it i i il J How Infantile Paralysis Begins. Dr. Llewellyn F. Barker, Johns Hop- kins professor, is more or less—let us lope less—responsible for this asser- tion in his Monographic Medicine, which work bears the same relation o the “doctor’s bible” (Osler's Prac- 1ce) as Dana’'s “Two Years Before the [ast” does to Whatshisname's “Tour of the World in Eighty Days™: “When the dizease (infantile paraly- is) is prevalent each child should ave his own handkerchief and should ever use the handkerchief of another pbhild, or that of a parent.” ‘Which leaves for debate what is to be done about handkerchiefs when he disease is not prevalent. Offhand should urge that this excellent ad- joe of Dr. Barker’s be followed even hen there is no epidemic on. How- wer, I do not intend to counsel ex- ravagance or vulgar dfsplay. From the moment of infection un- 1l the patient experiences the first ymptom or presents the first sign of liness — ti. 2=cubation period—is here from one day to two weeks, he average being about ten days. TRe cifld then sickens very much fhough coming down with tonsili- s or coryza (so-called ‘“cold” or D ). The fever is about the ne as that occurring with tonsilitis coryza in children. Often there is o more mental dullness, vomiting nd frritability than -may be common- seen with tonsilitis, but a general ersensitiveness of the skin and h some rigidity of the neck are picious signs. In this stage the closely resembles “rheuma- m,” “musocular rheumatism,” ‘neu- and “influenza.” Profuse sweat- #s frequent. The child is drowsy somnolent daytimes and restless h After a fow days he com- of pains, nnua:.h:ly in ene limb. Even at this stage the physi- cian may note an impaired or lost reflex nerve action in the limb which is about to become paralyzed. The paralysis manifests itself in from one to seven days after the beginning of the fllness. About one-half of all cases of acute anterior poliomyelitis are abortive or incomplete forms of the disease—that is, no definite paralysis remains, or only a transient weakness, or a scarcely noticeable permanent weak- ness of some group of muscles. We know this only from serodiagnostic tests. From such abortive or transient cases to the cruelest extensive pa- ralysis there are all transitions. The severity probably depends on the size and virulence of the dose of infec- tion sustained and the patient’s nat- ural or inherited resistance. An at- tack of infantile paralysis confers lasting immunity against a second attack, and that immunity is prob- ably passed down to children. The transfusion of blood or the injection of blood serum from a patient re- cently recovered from poliomyelitis is one recognized aid in treating an attack. I have tried to give a description of the average case. There are many variations of the picture, depending on the portion of the nervous system which happens to be most injured by the virus. Is a mouth wash or any antiseptic solution of any value in preventing this disease? I do not think so. But some physicians suggest the frequent rinsing of the mouth and throat with a weak hydrogen peroxide solution— teaspoonful in half cupful of water, or, what Is better, I think, & saturated solution of borio acid in water, when the diseass is epidemio in the com- munitys mid-season a similar effect! | than the blouse, in order to show the| A Stripes of White. | | THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTORN, | 1 IRDLE O TH economy may have somewhat to do Wwith this choice, as the black cloth or satin wrap can serve for the after- noon. Fur finishes the edges in the Victorian manner. There is an additional novelty in the use of colored duvetyne for lin- ing. Red is for evening, gray and beige for the day. No observer can doubt the sincerity of the dressmakers in advocating a different shape to the opening at the neck. The public does not seem to be | weary of the oblong opening, but the PERSONAL HEALTH SERVICE | By WILLIAM BRADY, M. D. Noted Physician and Author. dressmakers are. It is too easy to copy, say they. The public should say that it is too difficult to wear. Despite its several drawbacks and its tendency to make the neck and shoul- ders look bigger than they are, its simplicity determines its mass popu- | larity. The new effort is toward a diagonal line. This cuts across the chest from shoulder to waist or hip. Sometimes the other side of the opening is on a straight line. This gives a curlous but not an unpleasing effect. Wel casually call it surplice, but it is more sharply bias than that. The French frocks finish it with a high masculine rever. long on the crossing side, short on the under side. This is of the fabric, of satin; sometimes it s of a double thickness of georgette crepe. The latter collar is also adopted for the round, the square, the oblong neckline. * ¥ X XK ASHIONABLE women have &p- peared at smart places in ‘the evening with point or duchesse lace berthas finishing the edge of the neckline. These are held in place by silver shoulder straps if the decol- letage is empire, which it is as often as not. The fashion for high-necked evening gowns gives a chance for the two-inch lace of other days to sur- round the opening. Afternoon frocks of velvet have the square decolletage finished with preclous lace. The open- ing is quite deep in front, contrary to the fashion for evening bodices. Women who possess this kind of CARET OF PARIS, WHO IS 'GERTON. IT HAS A LOOSE CAPE AT BACK AND A ABRIC. radically from the rest of the cos- tume, if one so wishes, for tulle, sil- ver lace, or beaded net lighten a satin or velvet frock and achieve the swinging effect better than heavy fabric. But when a matérial is chosen that differs from the bodice it s rarely in a different color. The fashion for scarlet sleeves in a black or dark blue frock, for instance, has gone into the discard. It a sleeve fn a formal gown is short, it has the appearance of length given it by scarfs of lace or velvet. Paul Poiret puts strips of velvet, heavily fringed with silver, sometimes beaded and latticed with metallic threads, which hang to the floor from| the under seam of a bathing suit sleeve. Tulle gives a more airy ef- fect, perhaps, but not as arresting. * % k * HERE'S no effort to stop the May- pole ribbon idea, that's certain. D. e SEUE e AT T T B R B AR A S e e PR AL SIS S NNE RITTENHOUSE Says Accessories Play Verw Important Part in the Season’s Fashions—Short Suit Jackets Prevail—The Capes for Evening. Change Predicted in Neck Line—Return of Real Lace Bcrthas—Long Sleeves. Regularity of Line is Taboo—New Use for Spanish Shawl—Seams Piped With THE NEW RODIER PLAID IN RED ABLE. THE RED HAT IS EDGED W Ends of fabric and ribbon drip and of new gowns. Lanvin of Paris has sent some thin gowns here in capu- cine shades, which owe their color scheme to long, narrow scarfs of flame red crepe looped through the belt of a yellow frock. They fall be- low the skirt. When the two shades of nasturtium are used, the red and yellow, one thanks the designer for thinking of this trick. Edgerton of the Russian nobility, married fnto the British nobility, and who is now added to the titled Ro- manoft society running dressmaking establishments in Paris, creates a | gown which accentuates this cascade | tashion. It was Lady Edgerton who made the trousseau for Princess Zenia, who married Willlam B. Leeds, jr. you may remember, and this new gown is somewhat after those preferred by the Queen of Greece at that time. It is of mauve crepe with a curious EFFICIENT HOUSEKEEPING BY LAURA KIRKMAN. Helpful Letters From Readers. R. L: “Here is a recipe I discovered the other day. I call it ‘Vegetable Pie’ Peel and cut into small pieces 4 or 5 potatoes, 2 large onions, 4 or 5 carrots, and % head of solid white cabbage. Put these ingredients into a saucepan with water to cover and 1 tablespoon of salt and let cook un- til the potatoes have become mushy. Then take % cup of flour and mix it well with 1 cup of sweet milk, piece of butter size of an egg melted and a dash of pepper and stir this paste gradually into the cooked vegetablas. Let boil up until it thickens, then pour it into a baking dish. Cover with a crust made from any baking powder biscuit recipe, and bake in a moderate oven from 20 to 30 minutes. This can be varied by the addition of ‘hetrloom should rush to the cleaners|i; can of tomatoes. Turnips may be with it, for there is every chance to put it in service. ‘It is not restricted to formal frocks. It has appeared on soft blouses of georgette érepe warn with' afternoon’ suits} not the tuck-in kind; but the costums one, intended to turn a skirt info & gown. Jenny of Paris, who Invented the immense square sleeve slipping out from under a sleeveless frock, has turned her back on it. Possibly the world will do the same. Such sleeves|way. grew worse than commonplace.. -The. long sleeve continues. It is part of the frooks, however, not & separate shing. . In evening gowns it Qiffers|jugt ddded if liked. I find it delicious and thought some of your other readers might like to have it.” Old Housekeeper: “With s family consisting of & husband and seven children, I don't have much time for ‘anything but ‘short-cut" ways of run- ning my home. Here is one little dis- covery of mine that has saved me lots of work: I keep my paper bags from grocer, butcher and other tradesfolk and put one of these in every scrap basket iff the home. Large bags are, of course, best to use in this The members of my family are instructed to throw their scraps an trash into the bag, not into the bas- ket around it. Then, when the bag is full, it is so much er for me to lift it up and it down d | There! cellar than it would be to bundle up a basketful of loose scraps and tie them! Try it” Semi-invalid: “I am not strong and do not go out much, so every vear at Christmas time I enjoy making gifts that my entire family is to give to their friends. One thing I like par- ticularly to make is this: Buy pillow tubing by the yard, cut it the size desired for fancy pillowcase, sew up one end of the tube, and mark out a large scalloped edge on the other end of the pillowcase by placing a butter ‘pat’ down and marking around it, then placing it down again—and so on until you go around the entire edge. Now turn under the raw edge of these large scallops, hem neatly, and crochet a simple edge over the tiny hem. Then embroider the initial of the person who is to receive the gift, just above the scalloping, in the exact center of one side of the pillow- cage. 1 make many pairs of these cases each year and they are greéatly appreciated by the housekeepers who receive them. “Another pretty gift I have been making this year are the new twine shopping _bags, in various colors. I ‘wrote to Miss Kirkman' to ask her the name of a firm that would sell me by mail the colored jute twine to cro- chet these bags and she told me the name of a Boston firm that would sell them by mail—35 cents a ball. The colors are black, red, old blue, yellow, green, cream white, navy blue, crush strawberry and a sort of cerise pink. Please forgive a garrulous invalid if she has taken up too much column space but this printed, m'u- ‘women. SPORT COSTUME FOR PALM BEACH, BUILT BY PAUL CARET, OF VITH TAN. Paul Caret, who in real life is Lady | O, DECEMBER 2, 1921—PART 4. AND T. THE CAPE 1S DETACH- | shoulder yoke holding a full cape of drop, float and fly over the suurface|the fabric that falls to hem of skirt|the diagonal neckline repla iat back. The girdle is tied in front| in a sailor’s knot, the ends convolut- ing down the front. i The outstanding feature of clothes, | { present and future, is the heroic en- deavor to keep any line from the straight path. Much ingenuit shown in the result. The hem is zig- zag, the edge of the sleeve is mever| i what it was in other days, the bodice falls off one shoulder and mounts high on the other, there is a panel on one hip and a bunch of shirring on an- other hip. These are the tricks that make the amateur home dressmaker { wonder how she will achieve such effects. The neat, tidy frock, evenly cut, as though one had pulled threads to do it, is entirely out of the picture. True, we are apt to look thoroughly dis- | ordered if we do not possess the pecu- {liar style that carries off crookedness. And clothes are crooked. That's the only word. This fashion is abrogated when plaid is put in usage. No one could appear sane in one of the new Rodier plaids that are not overly bright in color, but absurdly huge in dimen- sion. The background is white, the strips are a faint rose or blue or green. One must keep to simple treatment there, or the costume be- comes a joke. Usually the castume embraces a one-piece frock and a cir- cular cape, hip length. The envelop- ing scarf that was almost as big as a cape did not attach itself to a gown as a part of the whole when it ar- rived In this country. It went into business as a separate thing, some- thing merely for protection, taking the place of a short cape. * ¥ X X PLAIDS. not checks, are featured by the American mills, and some stripes. The pin check is not re- vived. What is considered desirable is something that will strike the be- holder from afar. In new clothes that are intended for the south the builder has placed wide bands of colored crepe de chine between pleated panels of white crepe. The effect is that of specially woven material. This is used for the skirt, and it is a moderately short skirt at that, and the short jacket of white, edged with the color, covers a blouse of white attached to the skirt at a low waistline. Maybe there's a hip length rippling. cape instead of a jacket. It is pre- ferred. e There are .also gray transparent crepe frocks—and gray is a good color ~—with inserted stripes of white cot- ton lace, the kind that resembles I do hope to see for T know 1t will help | I¥ish. but lan't. The stripes have entered the field . 3 3 TAILORED SUIT, SHOWN BY Ji HAT SHOWS BENEATH THE JAC of sport clothes with gusto. There are English cricket blazers which have bright stripes on a beige bz ground, and other French sweater substitutes in which the gay stripes &0 around the body, not up and down. These are only for the slim. They are a desirable change from the uni- vegsal and rather commonplace sweater of knitted silk, worsted, or woven silk jersey. There is a Victorian fashion in the ings of seams. Once upon a time women thought this tedious work was necessary to every well-prepared frock. The fashion died out as time and labor grew beyond the moderate purse. It has only recently been re- instated. White, not colors, is used for this streaking. Velvet, satin, duvetyne, broadcloth are the fabrics chosen. Black velvet frocks with long straight bodices have seams piped with white, and often a white collar to match, especiaily when the es boat-shaped one. * % SVERY one of importance feels that L as soon as the oblong, Ttalian de- GABARDINE WITH ORGANDIE BLOUSE IN MAUVE, FASTE : WITH PEARIL BUTTONS AND ENDING IN DEEP BE several | 7 ENNY OF PARIS. IT IS OF LIGHT KET. colletage retires from first fashion | there will be a recrudescence of col- {lars and cream lace. Georgette crepe, | doubled, and white velvet will be turned into narrow and simple col- lars that soften the skin and add graciousness to the face. How mid- ged women have ¢ ed the conditions which kept these virtues out of existence is a mystery. They surely served themselves up as liv- ing sacrifices on the altar of fashion. Whatever the strength or weakness of winter, women turn their eves | anxiously toward furs. They wear them before the frost is on the ground. Many are sure the devil |offered Eve a fur coat and not an | apple. That which tempts the modern Eve. flapper and feminist. are coats of quirrel, of moleskin, Wwhich the rench call “taupe”; of natural cara- cul heavily banded with black or brown fur. The latter got somewhat | ton commonplace to please the fas- | tidious before the weather was suffi- | ciently cold to meed furs, but that's | the way we do. BY M. JES! HOME NURSING AND HEALTH HINTS E LEITCH. Mainly About Molars. It was only after the mew baby began to cut its teeth when it was seven months old that its mother realized how very little she kne about teeth. It was the motherly woman in the big gray house across the street who gave her a little friendly lecture one afternoon about teeth in general and her own baby's teeth in particular. And the young mother was very glad in the days that followed to profit by the experience of this older, wiser mother. “Gladys, my dear, don't be deceived by what people will tell you about these first teeth of baby's not being important. They must be well cared for, otherwise bacteria will reach their roots and bring about conditions that will prove injurious to the per- manent teeth when they appear.” “And when do the permanent tecth appear?’ asked Gladys, who was still a child to the woman across the street. “Generally between the sixth and seventh years,” said Mrs. Grant, who was the woman in the big gray housge. “The baby's first teeth, the ones he is triumphantly displaying now, are the two lower central incisors. Be- tween the cighth and twelfth months he will probably cut his two upper central incisors, and also the two up- per lateral incisors. After the twelfth month come the lower lateral inclsors, then the fou- anterior molars, some time before t X ixtcenth month.” “The poor carling! Such dreadful names for teeth!” said his mother. “Please tell me what incisors and molars are.” “My son isn’t a dentist for mnoth- ing,” smiled the older mother. “What 1 didn’t know about teeth in his baby- hood I have learned from him since he grew up. Y “The incisors are the central teeth, there being four in each jaw. The canine teeth are the pointed teeth, and there are two in cach jaw,.one on either side of the incisors. Then known also as | the anterior molars, | the bicuspids, are behind the canine | teeth, and the posterior molars are | behind the anterior molars.” “Why do some babies get their tceth |80 slowly?” asked Gladys, sewing busily in her boy’s new sleeping suits | “Very often delay in cutting the | teeth is due to poor mnutrition,” said | the other woman. “Though I am sure | there is nothing in your baby's ap- Dearance to Indicate undernourisi- ment.* “No; he is a healthy little soul 1sn’t he?” emiled his mother, thinking of the way fn which her small son's welght crept satisfactorily along in ounces gained week by week. “He Jjust eats and sleeps and smiles and gurgles” “And that is exactly what healthy babies should do.” said her compan- ion. “But, speaking of teeth, don't forget that, though the permanent teeth do not appear through the gums until your child Is six or seven years old, they begin to form in the gums in earliest infancy. And if the milk teeth are lost too soon the shape and condition of the cavities through which the teeth come and in whi their roots remain may be altered so as to interfere with the shape and normal condition of the permanent teeth.” “I shall institute toothbrush drill with my small son as soon as he has enough teeth to brush” sald the younger woman. “And he will thank you for It whe: he is older. Too many mothers neg- lect their children’s first teeth,” said Mrs. Grant. Onion Butter Sauce. Mix together one-fourth cup of bui- ter, one-fourth cup of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt and one-half teaspoon of pepper. Stir in two cups of cold wa- ter and cook, stirring constantly unti boiling. Let boil for about five minutes, add two tablespoons of onion juice ex- tracted from an onion under pressure and beat in one-fourth of a cup of but- ter a little at a time,