Evening Star Newspaper, November 20, 1921, Page 72

‘abdemen. . 4 tons to it in the front.” i “The corset for tailored suits arid gowns - .in the back than the afternoon corset. With it goes a long bras- siere which comes down well over the, {J FROM MME. DUPRE’ OF “THE - PLACE- VENDOME, PARIS: X “The 'Frenchwomen .are puttipg—on--corsets - found they grew too fat without urun. The hips, be held in this seasom on account ‘cf the long-waisted clothes. .The new afternoon corset is designed ,upccltlly,y to: hold ‘in the again,-as they especially, must ' is’cut much higher top of the carset and but- e HERES THE CORSET FOR TATLORED SUITS AND FROCKS, CUT HIGHBR )N THE BACK THAN THE AFTERNOON CORSET. IT HAS A LONG BRASSIERE WHICH BUTTONS TO THE CORSET IN FRONT. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. O one should minimize the impoftance of the change'in women's figures brought about by the corset which is not a corset. What happened two decades ago is happening now, and the public regards the change with the same skepticiem it accorded then. Today the so-called corsetless figure rules among these who follow new Wovements in fashion. Two decades go it was the low;straight front cor- set which caused -the revolution in women's figures. . At that time the public insisted that the change was temporary and would net be accepted by Sufficient women to guarantee its. approval, yet today this very straight front corset is sup- posed to be the-standard, and modest, fashion for women. That was an-important revolution in women's figures in those days. ‘Women who ‘like the 1l waist and the curving hips protested wildly at effacing these .mrq attributes of loveliness, Men admired their wasp waist and gentle curves. There are men living who refer to the fine fig- ures of those days as they do to old port and good manners. Clothes had mes and tight waist beits. No one thought it vulgar or @urve out fully and fre y below the But these women who like their > T"Melw“ to el the corsets of the world were modeled to support it. .. What has been, will be. The revo- lution is here. It may be that the public will not accept it, but there is every evidence that it will. The features of the revolution are these: The waist line is left to Its natural proportions. The abdomen is not entirely suppressed. The bust is held in by a brassiere, which does not extéend over the diaphragm. The lower part of the hips m: not be suppressed, but when they are, tricot or rubber is used. The middle bone of the corset does not hold the fast- eners, except in isolated cases. Dominating all the other featurss is this: The corset goes down in the back and up in the front. To insure this movement the elastics are often omitted from the front and placed directly in the k. These things are not new to the corset maKer. They are new to the majority of women. The same uproar is going on against this state of af- fairs that greeted the low, straight front corset in other days. When the corset makers advanced these new corsets over a year &go, they were greeted with amusement by the dressmakers and the trade did not lend enthusiastic support. The young and the supple women accepted them as a substitute for an under- shirt and a pair of bloomers, which is the maximum amount of underwear indorsed by the debutante. In Paris they were accepted with- out protest, except in the working classes where they are conaidered in- decent. In America they have gained widespread popularity and are sold THE- SUNDAY .STAR, WASHINGTON, D. -C., NCVEMBER - 20, ‘1921—~PART 4. ' (3] . 1S LACED. CNE STEPS INTO IT. GOES WITH IT. THE SEATEPD FIGURE SHOWS A NEW PARIS DRESSING SACK OF PINK DUVETYNE, TRIMMED WITH WHRICH I8/TO BE WORN OVER THE CORSETLESS FIGURE IN THE HOUSE. THE STANDING Ticons? sriows THE NEW BLACK VELVET CORSET FOR DANCING. BRASSIERE, HERD OVER THE SHOULDERS WITH A PLATINUM CHAIN. 3 . the~stream, of fashion {:l:':d Yet what woman would to this type of corset?- Those agfinst the new corset have drifted with res . against return ‘who rebelled are dead or thew: ~ or. e tide. ’;“ e HE suppredsign of hips, the flat- y T tening. of.thi bust, the ‘broaden- ing -of the wolbt. continued until it became the standardized figure and’ sighers used this form of lining for even by conservative firms who re. fused to have anything to do with them last winter. Of course, they change the figure. Of course, they change the arrange- ment of one's clothes. No woman can wear a skirt with a tight waist belt over such cor: Itis not comfortable. With her tailored skirts she usually wears the pinafore top, which is like a girdle bodice with shoulder straps. 'he French de- ‘WITH'IT GOES A BLACK LACE all their frocks, no matter what the fabric. The American was offered this idea two .years ago, but re- fused it. . * %ok % BDOOHERB do mnot go as well over this corset as they wes{ offer the other kind, so the French designers i offer to the American public'the type of garment which all of theri wesf, a | fingers: at what ~ IT HAS NO OPENING one-plece slip, hanging from the shoulders by straps. & It serves as a substitute for bloom- ers and petticoat. It is made in all colors, of crepe, satin, georgette. There is another garment worn un- der the corset as a substitute for the undershirt by those who like to feel themselves more fully dressed than ultra fashion suggests. This is the short slip of crepe de .chine or georgette crepe, wiich is like.a slim undershirt ending in - a pdir of bloomers held in by elastic at the knees. Everything that woman does in fashion is taken seriously by the public. The press and the pulpit, the doctors and the athletes, the re- formiers and the pessimists leap into action, or rather speech, whenever ‘woman does something drastic to her figure or to her clothes. This.season they are all at it, ham- mer and tongs, telling woman that she is immodest, that she is running to the length of lndeneanci. ending by the usual reference to her sainted grandmothers. They completely forget that their kind reviled and abused past gener: tions for lacing the corset and d stroying the circulation, for wearing long skirts that swept up the dust. for co flannel '0d: Y. natural, cuttin hem ering themselves with thick that invited pneumonia. when woman is trying to be healthy and vigorous, by off the top of her corset, the her skirt and the better part she is told to go back or be a lady. Little wonder it is that women fiick their men _think. There is this to be said against the new corset in its application to, the stout, middle-aged woman; it will not support her muscles nor her fat. All both of these have been supported throughout her life, she will suffer physically if she makes the .change. The present outcry against the, cor- set from an esthetic point of view is that it gives undue prominence to the curves of the abdomen. “Gro- tesquely ugly,” ssys the public, for- getting that women who were con- sidered to have lovely figures for a century before the straight-front cor- set, curved out like inflated balloops below the waist. * x % % woman should be misled into be- lieving that she can go into a NO THESE TWO FIGURES SHOW THE BACK AND FRONT OF THE NEW CORSET, DESIGNED BY MME. DUPRE, WHO MAKES FOR AMERICAN WOMEN. EXCEPT AT THE BACK, WHERE IT IT GOES HIGH IN FRONT AND LOW IN THE BACK. A SPECIAL BRASSIERE l shop and order one of these corsets without thought. There {s not one type for all figures. There is as much variety in these top- less corsets as in the kind we have worn for decades. The makers are tumbling over each other with reme- dies, inventions, devices for agmfort, adaptations for those who have not the ‘perfect figure that saves money,” as Rose Stahl once said in “The Chorus Lady.” To offset the evil middle bone which digs into the waist a designer has put out corsets that button on each side. Many flexible bones are placed across the front panel so that it will not be entirely useless. Sometimes this type of corset has lacing at the back, not always. Wom- en prefer the absence of laces for the reason that new skirts are pulled tightly across the end of the spine and the lacing makes a ridge under the fabric of the frock. There are types that have no fasten- ing and no lacing. You step in them, and pull them up after the fashion of a nineteenth century squire pulling on his long boots. There are no straps that help you! For women with too much flesh on the hips, wide elastic bands are added on the inside of these corsets to act as garters below the hips and keep them from rising up as one walks. There are corsets of pique combined with elastic which button on each side.and have strong garters down the middle of back. Others are of atin and tricot with a short bone in front and a long back which extends over the hips. { The importance of choosing differ- ent corsets for different costumes is The corset makers have harkened to the criticisms of the pub- lic and fashioned types to suit tailo: ° COMBINATION SLIP TO T 18 IN BLACK AND WHITE BLOUSE, ‘1if you do not put your corset on in ULL-Down Corsets in.the Back.” is Slogan From the French Capital—A Case | | of the Sensational Becoming Commonplace—The Change in the Figure. Variations of One Model—The Surplice Brassiere, and Trouble With the Middle i .Bone=Scorned by the “Flapper.” ; ' ed clothes, also fleshy women. ' Cer: taln of ‘them are cut higher in the back than the afternoon and evening corget. A long- walsted brasslere tha fastens to the top button of the cor- set goes along with them. The striking novelty of the is a bl velvet corset. mad dancing.- It is .topless and h: elastics loosely fastened to the 8, as every woman known: she cannot dance with. tight garters, There {s a black lace brassiere to.go with this corset which is hung over the shoulders with fine chalns. ‘There are afternoon corsets which ®6 up higher in front than back in order to give the new silhouette which g:lcll'( for a lowered waist line in the platinum| | * % % x TTHE fitting rooma for corsets are * interesting places these days. Flustered and bewlidered women are trying to learn the new method. Pa- tient and expostulating salesladies are trying to point out the new path. “You don’t mean I have to pull it down in the back and let it ride up in the front,” wildly cries a woman Who has spent much of her life pull- ing her corsets far down in front and pulling the flesh above them. She could cry when the corset fitter gets through with he “But 1 have alwa ad such a Bood figure,” she wall; None of my clothes will fit over this corset.. feel as. though I were falling back- ward.” The corset fitter agrees with her, but_does not console her. “You cannot wear the new gowns - the new manner. Surely you do not want to go about with a whalebone sticking through the middle of your frock, over your diaphragm!” “But I look so fat in this corset,” says the woman. She is on the point of tears. Her life is- falling like building blocks about her. “On the contrary, you look much smaller,” explains the saleslady. “All that flesh is gone from your dia- phragm. It no longer makes a ridge over your shoulder blades. It is not pushed up under your arms. You are in proportion now.” “But I don't like it. I don't like it,”, pleads the woman. “Will I really be unfashionable if I wear my old pper looks them over and the saleslady: “You don’t says to think 1'd wear one of those boned | things, do you? Give me a plain | tricot band with a puir of garters at the back and & row of buttons at the side. How could I dance with one of those things that have bones at the front and come above the waist?” And the saleslady, ever ready to meet varying opinions, says: “But these are newer than the bands. Cor- sets have really come 'k into fashion. The lack of them has caused women. to spread. Here's one of vel- vet with just a few bones across the front and short laces at the back. Do try it. The entirely uncorseted fig- ure is out.” Declde between the two, you who buy corsets. All_brains seem to be set in the —_—————— ‘Things You’ll Like to Make. For a little misses’ frock, cross- stitched, checked trimming is simple and sweet. Cut a six-inch band with tabs five inches wide and three inches deep: one tab at each side and one at the dback. With red wool or mercer- ized thread ' cross-stitch the black checks to form-a simple pointed pat- tern. Have a small tab at each side of the collar and one above eath cuff. Many very stunning combinations - can be had by using plain chambray or linen for the body of the frock combined with checked for the trim- ming. A red frock with black and white cross-stitched, checked trim- ming makes a pretty and practical little' play or school frock. - : FLORA. ¥ (Copyright, 1921. same direction to eliminate the ugli- ness of the broad steel in the front of the corset. Rising above the waixt line, as it does in the old-fashioned type, it protrudes in the front of the frock. When the fabric is thin, the effect is all it should not be. * ONE of the remedies is to place five small bones in the front and use lacing or buttons instead of hooks and eyes, Another source of worry is the lac- Ing at the back which many women demand to keep the corset frem spreading, but which all admit pro- droduces an ugly line across the end of the spine, If it were fashionable to wear gathers: or plaits in the skirts, at the middle of the back, the lacing would be obliterated. The opposite fashion s in power. Exaggerated fullness is placed at each side of the skirt, sometimes in front, but the back of the skirt must be drawn tightly across the figure. Such rites of Latest Corset Styles in Paris manipulation of the fabric exposes every bulge or ridie beneath, If You talk to women about these corsets—and if any other subject can get ahead of this, I'd like to know it—the fault of the ugliness of the middle bone will be laid to the bras- siere, - “Some of us must wear heavy hones in front” say the talkers, “and we must have the covset rise 4 bit above the waist, but the brassiere people do not think of any one bu flapper who goes without corsets.” Alas anfl alack, too true, too trye There is one answer to the appeal of these women. It rests in a sur- plice brassiere, built of coarse lace that crosses around the waist line and ties or hooks in the back. Thiy has to be fastened 1o the top of the corset by safety pins to make it stay down and its two lace streamers go- ing about the waist, give unsightly thickness. France has produced a new long brassiere in answer to this demand. It is like a corset cover. cut on slim lines, and it buttons to the middle front of the corset. Useful Hair Tonics. Very_ few people bother to apply a hair tonic properly. It seems like a very small thing to consider and one not worth troubling about, yet ltke most small things it is really very important. Most people apply a hair tonic by upsetting small portions of the tonic over the head, rubbing it around through the hair and then consider the job complete. This method un- fortunately gets more tonic over ths hair than intd the scalp, and the result is that the hair becomes sticky or oily. The woman is apt to conclude that the hair tonic s no good because it makes her hair look 80 messy and makes her shampoo it at least twice as often as she needs to. The only way to use a hair tonic is to part the hair, rub a little tonic down the parting, then part again in another place, rub some tonic down that parting, and so on until you have covered the scalp with decent thoroughness. A great many women find it most convenient to wet a tiny wad af cotton with the tonic and to rub this down the partings of the hair. This is certainly most con- “enfent if you have not one of the regulation hair tonfc bottles. You never need use much tonic at one time, the important thing is to get it on the scalp. When you have done this run the fingers through the hair and begin the massage, which is an important part of any scalp treat- ment. A thorough massage will rub in the tonic so that practically none can get over the hair and will stimu- late the circulation of the blood to the roots of the hair. M. S.; Brown Eves; L. T. A.; Anna- belle.—An oily scalp shows that unhealthy condition exists. This must be treated and cured, washing the bair with too much lemon Juice or tob much baking soda to dry out the scaip is not a remedy, and sometimes is af frritant. Use a hair tonfo and maseage the |acalp every night. Go without hats |as ‘much as possible, and do not wea> false hair or pads. The sralp must have plenty of air. Shampoo every thrée weeks, usirg a little soda or lemoan juice in the {final rinse if you wish, but only a | very little. Cranberry Pudding. A delicious dessert may Be made as follows: Put into a small kettle one quart of cranberries, two cups of water and one and one-half cups ef sugar. Place on top squares eof rich biscuit dough, cover closely a let boil for Gfteen minutes. The crust will then be nice and light. A liquid sauce may be served if de- sired. The Hecht Co 7th at F Where prices are guaramee(i 7th at F Now every one can have a Phonograp The phonograph pictured below " —with $15 worth of double-disc records —18 full size records. 36 fine selections $ 59.50 : (OUT question this is the most liberal ~,VYV. phonograph offer ever put before Washing- ton people. It is possible - —Bankrupt sale of Emerson because of the records. —A receivership of this make phonograph. PIHE phonograph, as pictured, Tncfmplru favorably with the finest instruments—has all their features, together with ex- clusive features of its own. It’s a phonograph you will be to show your neighbor piece of furniture to grace your room; a musical instrument that rovide music for you and your friends at any and all times. v It is guaranteed for one whole year, the same full guarantee that we extend to our Edison, Columbia and Sonora shonographs. The fullsize MA- (OGANY cabinet is mounted on CASTERS, so that you can push the machine where you will. The guaranteed MOTOR will play Home of Eduonz Columbia four records at one winding. And the motor is splendjdly con- structed that it runs as freely and silently as a watch. It has the wuniversal towe-arm enabling you to play any record And with the TONE MODU- LATOR at side you can control and shade the tone at your will. e, Sends the phonograph to your home. $5 Monthly pays for it and Somora phonographs.