Evening Star Newspaper, November 13, 1921, Page 82

s s Make Their Appearance as Winter Approaches Unique Blouse skirt in order to tighten the hip line BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. but they attach to themselves fur, This particular kind of stocking h: : : and lengthen. the waist lire, for with | g g - s - - - Axmsn“l its hux" upon blouses |The fengthen. th long akives Tt ts e Y P 7 metal ¢mbroidery and Italian cut-|not gone out of fashion, and it is P T AR e ERE | 4 MERICAN Buyers Brought Many Models From Paris During Early A = SRR S e iéan buyers brought to (his (NP3 In order to present harmonious| | - [\ . . Buyers Drought Many Models From Paris During Larly Autumn | | Some o these blouses are strongly |wear at”all ‘nours of the day and country several new models | P'{! s, ; B : . broad at the , Ceing at th These white flunnel blouses'are thin . . at the shoulders, sagging at the * ok k * taat, are bound (o be interesting and|or thick s v ar v ,—-.the~s ort Bl e—th U f Fl nn I—A m; U Sm ll Anim 1 hips, tightened by a broad and garieh | . : et gk and}or thick and they: ateimade In aax P ous e Use ot Flannel—Attempt to Use dmall Ammals, | |5t i i Nuk "one Wonders 1t 15 sddition to the ope color of stock- 3 e g 3 n p % . 7 is necessary to pay much money for| ing, there Is also the one color of ey Dut the white shirt saist den.|of them owe their brilliancy to the C d 1 D o E b d C 1 F I fl S 1 T ) s o adait b t color. % . g e so unimportant as an unGer- e 55 s nitely in the shidow.- feducing it 10| biouse trimmeat with ”\:mc:n?s'\fg;; ruaely rawn,. as mbroidery orsetless lgures niuence tyles WO | |skire.” it ‘the fashion for shor: skirts | *!Pr ey Tegact i the type of thing that one buss for!Bood. Narrow'strips of black ‘velvet, Bl ; o O k- . . NS D i exiatence; it woull beja soman. does mot have. io: ‘worr ' = r i p— < e s 5y to a E 2 | natc i gervice ana for the hours.whey one | S ¥ ETOreTa, Hovon aom uist || Dlouses for' One Skirt—Popularity of White and Black Satin—Curious New | | Gt n Gl it o o o o o s v wamtor. s\.not- arrayed for ihe ‘public.eve.|applications of brack velvs Steik- i wEWLE There are other kinds of tunics than & e et = % o e appl ieat s of black velvet in strik s] 5 A these voluminous' affai which carry |in these frantic days. “Life must b. ven in sports theére is a differentink designs. * < 1 + eeves. 2 all the glory of the froc smoothed out or ‘we shall go to a: _ kind of blouse worn from what has | If & £ray or bluo suit ls to have Lo : Tong, i wvere Doy TheT e |carly grave.” is the phrase that mo: been considerea correct. The English | plicationa e’ in dark biue. or erim- - - - — : ; takenWfrom the civil war era. They,|Women use every day. . ‘Whatever have led Americans to wear the{son or violet and white. ~There are|or a whity silk sport blouse with a : {00, were worn with long, full skirts, | ihcrefere lanes o 8 fo the thing 2 5 blouses which owe their brilliancy to | shaped yoke. £ £ : s those days were nfio;nfidmin?‘?:d:l be accepted. =3 3 tailored ‘shirt ‘of silk, muslin..or. flan- mel. They tuck under.the skirt and demand a belt.. They are still worn, Let no woman feel that she can put sleeves in any of the new that she desires to build to her dark skirts. Sleeves in deinands § ' they drip in points. " There is a black satin blouse trimmed with astrakhan which looks as though it were copied from Godney's Magazine. This type of | The corsetless figure i the -blouses that rtun down to the|: hips. and.this ‘in itself has been af. factor against the sport blouse which| - L F large designs llke.a Japanese cris, ‘These are.put on the right side of the front instead of the mfiddle of the back as’ the Japanese wear _them. demure blouses enliven Btill liked. but they are not in the|qyoy \ere widely featured In the de- | tucks under a_skirt put on a Ught list of things called new. . |pariment shovs in'Paris during ‘Sep: | walatband. " “The _modern ~womun blouse does not stand.aleme in the fash. | Dlouns re Ca or o e ramaii 1t is not easy tor get the favoréd|tember. Crepe de chiné was used|wears. her sport *skirt snapped or thes casry 4 Dank cnta e e hantied desitners. Thoy &r < sport blouse In this country, but it|more often than. flannel, but the|buttoned to ‘the lower edge of &, sround the hem, and 8t the ne -rx'("'d]e/ Satiace. Tunning fiom arnbels X soon will be so. for so many women smart women adopted the idea for all|straight corset cover. with the weight | ~ SEIt. manner that. pives one & fectins | waist line; they are long, Ught at the have admired -the heavy silk tric rts of materlal. This is another {swinging from her shoulders. i glimpse of the tight Jjackets worn by | Wrist, with width and fullness abo sport blouse that the buyers are send- | fashion which is more.suitable for| There is no use for .any. woman| s Those Austrian romantics who onee Sang | the elbow: they are half UEht to the and danced through the Strauss operas. So sedate a blouse as this, made of black satin and black fur, would serye with |trimming of a brilliant character. more skirts than black, for the fashion' The Dbelt is as important as the is set for black hats and slippers as|sleeve.. If vou take up the idea « iactvcssor!cs to all costumes. ! you ill wear a vivid green A black bloyse. hat and low shoes are ith jeweled eyes about the- worn with a gray sk green skirt, hich is another of the fash ja burgundy skirt and stockings that that Carthage th:t are always the color of sunburnt legs g elbow and finished with immense be shaped ruffics, upon which is placed to hold up her.hands in.horrof over| the suggestion of corsetless figur 3 The fashion is accomplished. Speak- | s ing in strict truth, there are a few figures on which some type of carset is not placed. but the word corsetless | refers- to the absence of “the boned | corset which has been accepted for centuries. The large major bands that do not ing to Europe for It manufacture it in this countr: blouses. slip over the head depart from the oblang necl they .de not present the overly wide, flattened expanse of material across the chest. Only the slender woman could stand sach a_trying experiment |brought out in America. last -winter, with msterial. If she had undue|but the designs used on the new ones curves of the bust. if she was large|are more suggestive of thought and in the dlaphragm, if she wors corsets |study than those with which we are nd will_soon|the young and slim than for other These | types of women.. - 3 ut they| Next to .the flannel bjouse is a line and | cuirass blouse. of knitted wool or silk- which has atraight lines of color going _around it. It is fashioned on the Indian Dblouses which were I,\ SMALL HATS OF THE SEASON. i) Really, toe-much attention is given BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. to frocks and too little to-hats, espe- cially by those of us who write. We are apt to spend weeks ‘in ranging our clothes for each seascn and regard hats as an after-thought. something that can Qe picked up at a small price after the heavy work has been done. Women may be divided into two classes when they become buyers of apparel. One class regards the. hat as an accessory, the other class re- gards .the hat first and the gown afterward. There are women who have the reputation of being continually well dressed, who adhere to the latter view. They buy their hats from their pet milliners when the season starts. They arrange a morning for the work and permit no interruptions until it is finished. The head coverings secured | and assured, they go to the dress- makers to inspect frocks. The reason they give for their action is that the face must be looked after first and: he figure next. The French act on | his reasoning also. : t ! of womer wear | xtend above the |- with a middle bone that insisted upon | familiar. They represent . genuine | pniat 1i B ] i st line. They have elastics by standing away the figure. she {Indian figuratio walt st AL AU e Veatat T the fape oF s [\hich 10 hold up the stockings.. And bodicé that was fashioncd after thej ! i .—_rm;m-: is a wide attempt in Paris.‘i s | * and now in America. to use smatl | rrm: new’ silk tricot blouses m'cgnml-\-u.\'. crudély drawn,’as embroid- { arranged in a far more zracious!ery, and this idea-puts the new kind ! line. Theéy open in front in a V-|of Indian blouse in the first ranks of | shaped line and the upper side goes|fashion. | across the figurel giving a moditied} There'is.a strong suggestion of the ! surplice effect. The belt, which goes|caveman's .drawings in -some of the ! . about the hip.line. is a part of the'Wwork sold by great houses at high ' :'::‘,’:; '5‘:;‘!;&‘:‘“;‘:1‘\11&1“.01\'“5 )anal_:fi:-&'pnce-_ Possibly the return of the . S aRDbhasanie The “;}f}mes; &t %ne World'to s certain kind of savagery weaving keeps it from stretching and |SuB8ested - these primitive desighs. | l::d!:s its’snug appearance about the ' They are strangely different from the | dy. E E ! work that has gone before and have | Such blouses are preferred above all |y oo o Sy pi G RS TS others for sports and for tailored| suits. Women choose them in gray. |clality of the embroidery which has beige. iwhite. and wear them with|been followed for centuries. Wwhatever morning suit they DoSSess.| rwo years ago it would have been considered crude, not to’ say sensa- They catch the surplice neck with an ornamental pin and often they wear a narrow belt about the normal waist | tional, to wear a white woolen blouse which had a row of small colored birds around the hips, each bird as line, which permits the soft tricot te #ag above it in a manner which gives stiff and sold as though it were cut out of wood. Today such. birds are manner of a chest protector. hould be the motto printed on the abel inside the crown. 1f the point is. in the wrong place it throws the features of the face out «f line. If u woman cannot find out for how hat should go, let advice, get printed directions necessary, and not take her head away.from the mirror until the has followed then There is a truly Venetian Fat on the market which is more ditheult to wear than the one in the sketch, but this dogs not keep it from being ac- cepted. It is elongated at the sides, has a low, wide crown, and a brim that turns sharply up at the back r- the new silhouette. i The next cholce 2 fter the silk tricot | In & day. when the figure is more hought of than it has been since the , early stages of.civilization, it is only natural that the majority should look to their corsets and frocks first. The truth remains, however, that the ha makes or mars the appearance of a woman. Her face still counts. The American public is more &pt 10 take its hats from France than i gowns. 'It goes to Paris for Festions. But except among a minority of fashionable fol French model is not worn as it i ix altered to suit the American life Not so with hats.' The milliners run to and fro over the occan to catch every stray hat that appears in Paris and it is brought here and sold al- most as quickly as it is handled over there. -The hats of this have been accepted herc. Chief among them is the shape whidh is called Napoleon, or Venetian, ot Paul Jones. You can speak French or Italian or American ‘when You refer to these hats. The sketch shows one of the best of these shapes. It was invented by Molyneaux of -Faris, who has put forward apparel that American woni- len can wear without changing; at I least, this the comment of the dressmakers,. and they should know. The materiai is dark blue velvet with a chord of the fabric outlining the curving brim.. There-is a wide strap i of black patent leather passing acro the erown: it ends in two large patent leather buitons on the s | BLUE ‘VELVET. NAPOLECMNC HAT WITH STRAI' _AND 2 BLACK PATENT LL ! | ason in Paris!and the front. garnished at . jwith a black ribboned coc This hat must be worn far over the eve- < really the hat of the ¥ and it should be worn @ Wedh -it. merely allowins ut on a level wiia the edge of the brim. Women have feminized this masen- line headgear by adding . lace veil to the front e & doubtful if it improves T li ON LEFT, GREEN CREPE DE CHINE BLOUSE, EMBROIDERED WITH SILVER THREAD. ' THERE IS A SILVER BELT WITH GREEN SNAKE HEAD. ON RIGHT, BLACK SATIN BLOUSE, TRIMMED WITH BLACK ASTRACHAN. fact that the latter color is a make- shift this season; it is not a de- (;rminh!g factor in fashion as it has een. > these elastics are omitted from the front of the corset, and two stout ones are placed at the back so that this band will not slip upward. . dress and they. tuo. | the sides to hold | silver ornaments SMART LITTLE WHITE FLANNEL SPORT BLOUSE, 'l'l\l!lMEDv WITH BLACK EYELET EMBROIDERY A DlounaT;.u”o:::n::fkw'hue or beige flan- | commonplace and the observer is fashions of autui blouse was weil known before this season, but it was fash. ioned on the linc’ of a -man's shirt and was tucked under the skirt. new blousc is worn over the a new note In the|lucky if he dpes not see all kinds of ! in America There could be no more revolu- tionary reversal of established fash- ion than this very thing, but after two years of struggling,- the corset people have won the public to-their side. Naturally the comfort of such corsets has much to do with their adoption. The woman.who ceases to pull her diaphragm over the edgé of a corset and holds in her. abdomen with the.strength of double-ply laces is_only too_glad to accept.a fashion which_ perniits her to expand to.her normal size. * R ox ¥ VWHEN this faskion ‘became . thor- oughly intrenched among women it was useless to ask themr to' wear |'blouses that tucked ih under the gkirt. Only the women who continued to wear-boned corsets above the waist Iine continued to go along.the old | path. The rest took to the overblouse D. BLACK . TIE. bodice with the happy assurance that at last they could be fashionable and 5 11 animals smell Janimdle comfortable. woman's figure. 1t is no wonder that such ingenious parading around a away from anything so demure as a |rubber corset accentuated the papu- white shirt waist with a lace collar |larity of the new type of ovcrblouse, and to a skirt attached to a straight There is no- doubt in the minds devices attract a woman's.attention |of those who make blouses -that the ‘| strong to be ignored. |'BLUE CREPE. BLOUSE EMBROIDERED IN BRIGHT COLORS. COLLAR AND COUFFS BOUND WITH BLACK SATIN CIRE RIBBON. i which is tightened' at the hips injabout when one must wear the same | order to give an imitation of the wide | costume every day—and this is what -|hip belts that Paris wears.- most wogeen have been compelled to The -,accent laid upon the tunic |do since the .era of high prices. blouse by the dressmakers is -too|Women This garment|men like it in food, and they leap like change in clothes as was the feature of the -collections|like a trout at bait to any glittering during the early autumn. woman -a -chance to vary the upper It gives -a|8ubstance that floats on the surface of the stream of fashion. The desirc hat can be twisted and turned e discriminarti woman until the points arrive most attrac- tive angl Never put on one of manner. Such With a cloth skirt it is np longer poor judgment to wear an ornamental blouse of satin that covers the hips. If any one glances over the new tunics which are offered to-the public they will find that blackand white satin_not_only play a leading role, these hats in a car: Chicken Salad. HOME ECONOMICS. Chicken salad requires no great amount of skill in the making, and| is one of the best things for the ama- tour cook to select for party or sup- per refreshments because it is al- ways sure to come out well, provided g00d ingredients are used, and it is almost universally liked. Chicgen salad is not inexpensive, and after you have made it, estimat- ing the price, you do not marvel so greatly at the restaurant that puts it down on its bill of fare for a dol lar and a quarter a portion. Ho ' ever, from two chickens costing less than $5, you can get two dozen good portions. Of course you must con- sider that you will probably’ use 501 cents worth of mayonnaise, or more, | and that you will need celery, lettuce | and other ingredients. But don't for. l’ Zet that.when you make chicke: salad in your home you have not only the stock in which the chicken is cooked and from which you can make excellent soup and gravy. but vou have the giblets, which make de- licious sandwiches. And vou also have the wherewithal in the way of BY MRS. ELIZABETH KENT. Having ' bought and. worn our stockings, we must eventually darn them. A convenient stocking basket these days must-contain an equip- ment of various colors. and weights of darning thread, for we wear. silk, i may be used. The veal should be ten- 1 bones to make excellent chicken-soup stock. A very good sort of salad can be. made by addng a little veal to the; chicken. - As much as half and half and lisle and wool, and in most of the colors-of the rainbow instead o the black or white of a simpler day. 1fu stoting must be darned, the sdoner the better; nowhere does the stitch in time count for so much more than the proverbial nine. Stockings. of course. like other clothes should be mended with a thread as nearly as possible. the same as that with which they were made— silk for silk, wool for wool and cot ton for lisle, and of. the same weight. and_colors \to match. light-colored darning ball with 2 handle and with a ring to hold the hole in position ‘moderately sharp pointed darning needies with large eyes. small sharp. scissors. a der, and cut into cubes. Unless you are making a very large quantity of i chicken salad, of colurse, the extra | Work involved in cooking the . veal | would hardly be worth the amount of | money saved. ‘ - 1 ™A variation of ¢hicken salad may be ! made. by using three cups of chicken Ifo two cups of cut-up salad to one cup of diced sliced pineapple. Thel! pincapple should be allowed to drflmi for an hour or-mere before adding to the chicken. ——— Cake help to make darning easy and efi- Prune Tea Cakes. : lclentl. It pave to darn neatly and S runes until quite soft!regularly both for the comfort of the w:::ov\vn.sosmwze‘t,emnx. drain and_pit|{ wearer and longer -service of the rune wit he A eac D egs and add it, to- i deep enough into the unworn part to Gether with half cup of sugar, to one | insure jts " holding the darn: better cold boiled rice. Form the|double the size of.the darn this week 5}2‘2 stmto croquettes, of balls, and|than find a perfectly good darn pulled away from its edges next week. holes ‘in_the leg or knee of children’s woplen hose may be knitted from the top or bottom, and overhanded along the edges on. the wrong side. Runs in silk- stockings are- most quickl one of the prunes in each one. gl:l?; on a well-buttered tin and be- fore placing them in the oven cover the top of each one with a spoon of meringue. -Serve either in individual dishes or on a small round platter. A white or long. | of the shops. but while they are th | pan, Big | down by earrings made steel ornaments .r any_ one can think of Revamping Beds. The universal habit of Americans | nowadays of sleeping with open win dows has greatly stimulated the sal- of all sorts of warm bedding. Sleep- ing porch conditions prevail i bedrooms where on two sides. gi here are ing free circulatio: of air. There is great benéfit to be gained from sleeping in this cold rare atmosphere. but certainiy nons from sleeping “col ot only is it depressing to the ical condition to be cold. but when one is cold i bed one is prone to draw onesclif up it a way that certajnly retards the cir ¢ulation “and leads to discomfort not to actual had health. The winter problem, then, as fa beds are concerned. is to pr them wilth the right Kind of beddfhg to ~make slceping-porch conditi really’ comfortable. And now % the time ta do this. First consider the mattress. it your bed is of the box-spring variety iittle alr can’ come through beneath the mattress. but if it consists of a light mattress rest upon_srpings. then you will find that much can be done by reinforc to keep out the cold air in this direction. ' Newspapers laid between the springs and the mat- | tress are of great service in keeping out the air, but they sometimes rustlc annoyingly to a light sleeper. In place of these vou might stretch Jengthe of cardboard or_ pasteboard from old coat boxes that would Me I straight and would not rustie. Blanket shieets are gaining m n r. and when You realize % se can be washed us easily a8 rex nlar sheets, and that they are peal only- cotton flannel and not any m expensive than good cotton sheets ou need not hesitate to get them fo. your beds in winte ‘Woolen sheets m v be had at som. they are extremely warm. too, warm for ordinary conditions. besideé many thimble and a generous bag or basket, | persons do not like to lie in wool. and i they are very expensive. i h sugar. Beat|stocking. Stitches should be taken | Crackerjack With Peanuts. For a large quantity have ready =i quarts of popped corn, free from ha Kkefnels, and spread in a large. ready for the candy when done Make a syrup iwith one-half pint of molasses ‘and one-half cup of *suga: cooked until it hardens in cold water. then add one-fourth teaspoon of soda, dissolved in a teaspoon of boiling wa- i ter. Let the syrup toam up well and vhile foaming drop into it as many. and less visibly mended by fine ma-: shalled peanuts, froe fr & i st Ine o ke wrong BMle. | e L e . ‘Worn spots that have not quite gone, haif.that of popcorn.or less. Pour a' to) holes should be darned regularly.|gnce: upon the pan of popcorn and b not very closely. It is a 00d|pack the crackerjack firmly, so that plan’ to-run two.or three threads|it wi)i easily cut into bars when cool- Closély in and out around the out-!eq" Quick work is required to handle side of a finished darn to strengtheniihe candy successfully in the last it. "It i3 economy in the cnd to cut|gtages. This candy should keep for A for varlety in one's clothes is im-|This makes an attractive as well as delicious dessert. —_— Apple Sauce Cake. 5 Cream_one cup of sugar With half & e Dutter or lacd, add one cup of unsweetened apple. sauce mixed in mind is that such tunics shoj be long, not short. You can see yourself how ungracious the line is when the blouse ends at the hips and the skirt ends somewhat- near the ankles. i r |succeeds as well a8 it does -in the | partial acceptance of a uniform for each season. PR ‘WO blouses to one skirt pleases the WHITE SATIN BLOUSE.: SLEEVES EMBROIDERED IN JET AND RHINE- STONES. BELT A ROLL OF SATIN ' - The. dressmakers. constantly’ avold giving a woman such bad.probortions as this by building;blouses that reach the knee. They fresemble - Ru tunics, and from get their name. - They.are distinctly ornamental. when the dressmakers fancy of a woman more than two pairs of shoes or two hats. She an | is permitted four blouses to -one skirt uch garments they | njs winter, so she should be ec- statically happy. It is not necessary have anything to do with them, The |for her to choose a black skirt as a shops sell. the simple ones which | foundation for these gay and fesiive serve for the infornial hours, but the ! blouses; she may choose gray, mauve, dressmakers consider such garmeuts:beige, rust, Havana brown, French, as the important parts of a costume jblue and deep burgundy. There is to..make a woman believe entire costume should be included. | and they ask = sufficiently high price [also an entirely new tendency toward that an {myrtle green, which was begun in Paris in the summer and has come with one level teaspoonful of baking: soda dissolved in warm water, then one teaspoonful of cloves, one tea. spoonful of cinnamon, some nutmeg. 2 pinch of salt, @ cup of raisins ang one and one-half cups of sifted flour. Bake for forty-five minutes. make one good sound. darn than to darn’ them in, for these threads, espe- cially’ in_silk_and wool, have been matted ahd rotted in'the washing. (Copyrigit, 1921.) Southern Custard. . ‘This reclpe. calls, for two egge beaten with two-thirds.cup of sugar and two-thirds cup of sweet milk, one tablespoon of. flour mixed with the beaten eggs and sugar and one tables Lyonnaise Potatoes. Cut two cups of cold potatoes in slices and season with salt and pep- per, melt two tablespoons of butter in a frying pan and fry one teaspoon out’ one or two linking threads and| yeek in d weather, but if it should become moist. dry it by placing it in a hot oven until it is tender. then re- move it to a_cool place. Tapioca Pineapple Dessert. Boll one-half cup of tapioca in v 4nd one-haif- cups of water until ¢lear. When coal add a small.can of pineapple, siiced, or a small pine- apple grated and one and one-half cups. of sugar. Add about two tea- spoons of ‘lemon. juice to give added of chopped onion in it until-it is EMBROIDERED IN JET-AND RHINE- h 3 ed STONES. : Tl gepara Th"’i.'-'m'm:':e‘:'“mfig::-:h:: tne fl:‘mme go. It 12"‘32"&‘.‘: fé:.‘dyof brown, then put t!ll:laifh:npo‘d“poutu abenn 2&33;&2:"?“"@ .l:!l;y:r with fl:::l: f;fw;f:”.f&mp::l ':g e s o < ‘& frock, was or. g L & un 28 taken lemon . ;0r. lemon:. .| e e e not ap-]color. to choose. for & separate skirt|In It and coby "on a platter, garnish | Cook in a_double boller -untj} e[ nuts. . This is es good as the fnest with the parsley.and serve. . . .c ..} of .the right consistency... . .y i d8herbebliii (- .os il oo grpfilud by women, It saves thém|if a woman is weary of black and ‘§from a_steady diet which is brotht dark blue. There is no doubt of ’the