Evening Star Newspaper, November 6, 1921, Page 74

Newest Wra i BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. PARIS, October 28, 1921. HE woman who owns a costly wrap which narrows in at the hem and tightens the line about the knees may well cry: *Woe i3 m » ‘Wraps are costly unless they are t60 cheap to be entirely successful, and the woman who has put much of 2e¥ last year's money into something -~ that meant privati -which means that she bought a #¥ap of expensive matérial trimmed with fur—is aghast ! when she finds that the narrow hem is a thing of the past. Every woman knows the type of ‘wrap which has dominafed the world flLPE VELOUR TRIMMED WITH GRAY ASTRACHAN. O?*‘H_WBS PATTERN OVER THE COAT AND THE CAPE IS LINED WITH GRAY, for several years, and which continued to be worn until the month of June. In America_there was not as quick a widehing of the hem as In Paris, and the canny observer realized that the June races in Paris brought out a re- Versal of fashion in cupes. Few of the women there w pped the cape about their figures. They permitted it to hang in straight lines from the shoul- ders, leaving the arms free. Possibly the American woman has already acknowledged this fashion by making heg thin summer capes ac- cording to the new verdict, but she must face the fact that the cape of last winter is out of fashion. . Tt was wide across the shoulders and hips and narrowed to the irre- ducible minimui at the hem. Possibly it had short sleeves in its voluminous sides, or she may have wrapped it STEEL NAILHEADS ARE F.!ST*NED i » - THE . SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. 0., NOVEMBER 6, 1921—PART 4. A NNE RITTENHOUSE, Writing From Paris, Says Fashion Change Was Made in Jun®; and That American Women Must Abide by Decision of French De- signers—Passing of the Hobble—The Short Wrap Is Popular—Use of Satin and.a Coat and Cape in One—Evening Gowns Continue Their Capes. BLACK VELVET GOWN TRIMMED WITH WHITE FUR; THE CAPE IS LINED WITH WHITE. about the waist with her arms inside, but whatever she did with the full- ness, and however she managed her hands, she did not neglect to hobble herself with it below the knees. ow he going to unhobble her- self, if one may coin that word? * ¥ k X% HE dressmaker's answer to that question is simple: “Cut it off,” she says. This answer may ease the minds of women who feel that they have not the money to put into a new and costly wrap. No woman need object to following | the advice to cut off the hem. It will not spoil the wrap, and possibly the dressmakers had this idea in mind when they put so many short wraps on the markets of the world. As a ryle they care less for econ- omy than any other race of workers, except the milliners,- so when one credits them with altruistic motivee one is probably being optimistic with- out reason. The conclusion of the whole ques- tion is that women must cut off the narrow* hems of their wraps, .buy new wraps or go about in a garment which, whatever its warmth and price, is not reckoned among things fashionable. < As few women have the courage to continue wearing clothes which cause the eyes of other women to glance at them with a touch of pity. they will dvoid the latter. A woman looks pretty for a man, but she is well dressed for another woman. She knows there are few men worth their | { salt who are well versed In the intricate complexities of changing fashion, therefore she dismisses man as a critic of fashion and tries to keep him pleased as a lover of what is attractive. If all women were to accept this philosophy without doubts, they would have an easy road down the path of conquest. ‘Whoever has read with a careful eye the description of clothes worn by the heroine of a man’s novel will see deep into the heart of a man as with a magnifying glass. The white muslin, the hair parted in the middle with a low knot at the back and a red rose at the waist, is the etepnal expression of their belief in the way women should be dressed. A man says: “How pretty you look tonight; that's a mighty becoming gown you've got on." A woman saya: “Are they wearing the walstline as low as that?” * ok k% THIS cutting off of a wrap to make it fashionable is not as easy as it sounds. After one eliminates the tightness of the hem there is the neckline to consider. Wraps go straight jto the chin these days. That wonderfully at- tractive movement of fur or material called the surplice collar which en- veloped the shoulders of women last year fhas been replaced by a straight. h)l‘[lzh collar of fur that fastens at the chin. How will a woman arrange this neckline? Again she will cry: “Woe is me!” "It is_easier to cut off the tight hem and permit the garment to ripple freely around whe knees than it is to fill in the V-shaped neckline. _If economy is the watchword there is a plece of advice to be given to a woman on_ the subject of this V- shaped neckline. The surplice collar can be lifted and the opening filled in with a tiny vest effect of the ma- terial of the wrap or of.the fur. The immense high collar, rolling back on itself ahd caught under the chin, can be fashioned also of the fur or the cloth. Of cpurse, this requires work. The coat may be worth it or it may not. Each woman is her own judge and jury in that case. Doucet has a heavy black satin coat which is trimmed with monkey fur, for this type of fur continues in fashion in London as well as Paris and was exploited in the new wraps at the autumn races at Longchamps, exactly as though it were a new fashion. Doucet’s wrap has a curious move- ment to it. The hem is gathered to the lining and runs in a long, zigzag line from left to right. At the right it reaches to the wrist, at the left it drops to the hem of the skirt. It fastens straight up the front and is finished at the neck with a wide, up- standing collar of monkey. Rodler's black silk broadcloth, also the fabric known as perllaine, are both used for the ayerage wrap and velvet I8 chosen fof capes that are to see service in the 'ternoon and eyening. L Callot advises a plain velvet cape in any color for the evening, which may serve for afternoon gayeties as well. This house does not offer the cape to those who have the money to buy gorgeous things of brocade and fur, but it is offered to those patrons who, have not much money to spend, yet ‘'who insist upon doing the right thing in clothes. * k% % CA{.LOT'S advice is for a midnight blhie velvet cape which drops well below the knees and ripples at the hem, | in whicll the arm covering is left to the | Jjudgment of the wearer. This cape is finlshed without fur and the owner! wears a large fur scarf or neckplece of | Il Notes of Art and Artists fashion was finished, for we adopted the Idea with such enthusiasm in America last spring, and enthusiasm wears itself out. Justice should be given to the newer movement of the fashion, how- ever, as the capes of the hcur are wide. The cipes of last spring were narrew, and fell in ripples from shoulder to waist llke an immense handkerchief, whereas the new_cape is cut as a part of the coat. When the wearer spreads out her arms the cape forms a square background. It COAT OF BLACK SATIN WITH HI COLLAR AND CUFFS OF MONKEY. THERE IS A DRAPED CAPE IN THE BACK, WHICH FORMS ONE SLEEVE. any kind over the plain edge of the vel- vet neckline. It is interlined for warmth, then lined with plain or gay figured satin; the latter is preferred by the dressmakers. ‘The American Federation of Arts has recently accembled and sent out from its Washington office three unique traveling exhibitions—one of town planning, one of wood block prints,’and the third art for chil- tdren. l The town planning exhibition con- jsisted of thirty-six mounts, 30x42 inches in dimension, each devoted to & separate subject and showing a group of photographs, plans, etc. 1The exhibit as a whole jllustrates quite comprehensively the big sub- jeot of town planning. F or example, one mount in this exhibition is devoted to the improve- ment of the Boston water front, showing the Charles river embank- ment from various 'viewpoints and evidencing what can be done under such circumstances to render an unsightly water frontage into a civic asset in beauty. Another mount shows the way in which the railroad tracks approaching the Grand Central Station in New York were placed underground and the area above made into a street of extraordinary at- tractiveness, an asset both in beauty and utility. A third mount shows through photographs the way the rallroad cuts and approaches to Pittsburgh have been bridged and beautified. Our park commission plan ‘for Washington occupies one mount, and pictures of the speedway and Potomac park another, while photographs of Washington's tree- lined streets and parks, well located monuments and architecturally fine public bulldings are given conspicuous place on mounts devoted to city streets, public bulldings, parks and playgrounds. In: this exhibit the small things have not been - over- looked, and excelléent examples are given ~ of lampposts, flagstaffs, drinking fountains and the like which may be at the same time serviceably and artistically significent. This exhibition is to be shown first in Memphis, Tenn., and then make a circuit of' various ‘cities and towns throughout the United States, with the purpose of stimulating municipal and civio. bodies in securing well ordered plans and expert advice in the matter of civic improvement. * % * % The wood block print exhibition, which will have its first showing.in ford, Ohlo, .and then is to go, to Seattle, ‘Wash., is composed of about ninety e: hibits contributed by fifteen or sixteen of the foremost wood block printers of today. The majority of these are in color and _are particularly decorative aling. ‘Wood - blocky printing is an art that ) Tt vogtie.. In & wood | has come lat block, as in a wood fl:fil’lfln‘. the sur- face is cut away and the design.or pic- ture printed from the raised portion which remains. Of necessity, a wood block, which is chiefly in large masses of light and shadow -or in super-im- poug colors_ held in mass, must be ex- tremely simple, ‘requiring the elimina- tion of demlfl(oul.llirzol'l“{.h: last det;ee. Japanese nts, e remember- e woad blocks. “One-of the first best of the American waod block printers was Helen de, who learned the art in Japan and won the commendation of the Japanese and the highest award in competition with the contemporary wood block ' printers- of that nation. .For the most part Mi Hyde, ‘who is no longer'living, but who is represented in this exhibition, chose as her subjects Japanese children, which she rendered with consummate sym- ~ pathy and skill. Somwhat similar in style is the work of Mrs. Bertha Lum of San Francisco, who also choose fig- ure subjects, but whose work is of an illustrative and imaginative character. One of the subjects by which she is rep- resented in this traveling collection is a photograph of the West Wind col- lecting the little breezes under her cloak at eventide. The Lemos brothers of Leland Stan- | ford, jr., University are accomplished wood block printers and take as their subjects typical California landscapes. Gustave Baumann of Santa Fe, N. M., is an acknowledged leader in this field of art, and his landscapes, such as blossoming apple trees and wood- land meadows, take high place, both for pictorial and colorful quality. From the middle west comes the work of Birger Sandzen, who has done much to leaven artistically that portion of our country, through his teaching and through his production, and who finds real beauty in wide sweeps of sky and D The south is ably represented by Alice Huger Smith of Charleston, who has taken as her themes typical southern r River,’ A ossy Tree,” all of which she has ren- dered in the style of the Japanese, but in a manner geruinely her own. Most_beautiful and perhaps most ex- traordinary of all her works is a rep- resentation of a moonflower and a hawk moth set forth with all the subtlety commonly ascribed to oriental There is one Canadian represented in this exhibition—Walter J. Phillips —who shows, among other things, a winter.snow scene of extraordinary quality. An interesting fact concer Ing e wood block printers is their individuality and their varied inter pretation of familiar things. %* ok ok K The exhibition for children is again quite different, consisting of original paintings of children subjects by Elizabeth Shippen Green Elliot, prints in color of children by Jessie Willcox Smith and illustrations of world-fa- mous children’'s romances by Maxfleld Parrish, as well as portraits of chil- dren by Reynolds, Raeburn and other great English painters of other days. ‘With these are shown illustrated children’s books; and lending charm and gayety for the little folks are handmade toys—two sets of Indians by Dana Marsh, mural painter—In- dians in war paint, mounted on horses that prance, with tomahawks in their hands;,and a doll's bedroom set with all apfointments, complete— bed covers, silk quilts, books and book ends, lamp, candle and match- box—a genuine work of art. And be- sides all these are articiles of utility —sllver, handwrought knife, fork and spoon with a pottery bowl, etc. Such exhibitions as these have been assembled from time to time by the Children's Art Center in Boston and by the museums here and there indi- vidually, the purpose being, obviously, to interest these little citizens in that is artistically worth while, and 80,~ during the most impressionable period, cultivate taste and discrimi- nation, thus opening the avenues o] lelight. * x %k X In edycational work along art lines for children Washington is behind other cities. New York, Boston, Chi- cago and Toledo are all doing excel- lent wark through the medium of ex- hibitions, of lectures, story hours and tours through the museums. In Bo: iss [ ton they have not only the Chil- dren's Center, which is the children’s own museum, but arrange for the children of the school playgrounds and settlement houses to visit the g \ Ne¢ obliterated the wide cape or a froc The Americans fashion of placing a ground to a coat fancied that the great museum. where they are told stories, shown pictures and c through the galleries by experts the museym’s cmploy. The Sthool Art League of in co-operation with the Metro- Museum and the Brooklyn In- stitute, renders much the same serv ice to Greater New York's little citi- | zens, who respond most heartily, at- | tending the talks and story hours in warms and later visiting the mu- seyms on their own initiative and bringing friends and parents. The Chicago Public School Art So- ciety directs its effort along rather different lines, placing, as does our Washington School Art Society, pic- tures in the hibitions, offering prizes for essays and. the like. It also purchases paint- ings from Chicago artists for replace- ment in the schools, thus rendering double service and directing the at- tention of the school children to the work of local painters. { Toledo has done more, perhaps, {accomplished larger results than other city, its museum being headquarters of activity with children. There not only are the story hours and gallery tours, but various organizations with headquar- ters at the museum, such as the Boy and Girl Scouts and classes in de- sign. The children of Tdledo have, Indeed, been made museum guards upen occasion, and have thus been taught to properly prize and rever- ence the museum's possessions. When Anna Milo Upjohn's pictures of childrer were on exhibition at the Corcoran Gallery of Art last spring a special invitation was issued to the school children of Washington to visit them and the attendance mount- ed In less than a fortnight to more than 60,000. This alone would indi- (“a.te local receptivity in this direc- tion. in ew and any the the * K K X The! interest in portraiture is un- doubtedly increasing, due somewhat to the fact that personalities have loomed large in recent years and that the value of portraits by the masters of earlier days has been especially emphasized through salesroom rec- ords. ‘When Philip de Laszlo was here in the late spring and early summer he painted a series of notable portraits of Washingtonians and of prominent officials of the government. Among the latter were President Harding and the Secretary of State, Mr. Hughes. Neither of these portraits | were publically exhibited, but were texcellent works. Most charming of all, however, was the portrait sketch that Mr. de Laszlo made of Mrs. Harding in_appreciation of the cour- tesy shown’him by the President and Mrs. Harding during his stay in the city. It is a portrait full of character and of charm, very simply rendered and very lovely. Never did the great portrait painter produce a finer work, More recently Secretary Hughes has been painted here by Guiseppe Trota, for the Italian-American Society, o which Secretary Hughes is president. And now Robert T. Lincoln has been painted by Emile Fuchs for the Ek- wanok Club, of which Mr. Lincoln Tor seventeen years has been president. EE It is now reported that the “Blue ,” by Gainsborough, purchased by my Diveens recently from the Duke of Westminster for £170,000, is to g0 to Henry E. Huntington of New York, who, in 1919, acquired the “Beckford Children” by Romney, which was formerly in_the Duke of Hamilton's collection. Mr. Huntington is a Col- Jector of rare books, his library of Engltsh literature is only rivaled, it is said, by that of the British Mu- seum. This library is in California. * * k% Paul -W. lBarLlelt, the well known sculptor of one of the pediments of ne of the masters of dress have | ools, circulating ex- | hangs to the knees at the back and, passing over the arms to the front, it forms a square sleeve. Doucet has made an exceptionally striking coat in this fashion. It is of ! {the Capitol and for some years a nducted | resident of this city, has designed and | {medeled a monumental soldiers’ me- morial for Oklahoma, which will be erected in Oklahoma City. | This takes the form of a_triple larch in granite 91 feet high, I'wide and 35 feet deep, 1t will stand | on Lincoln boulevard® about a half- |mile “south of the capitol. In the | central arch will be placed a statuc of Victory, at the base of the twc central piers will be statues of thc four guards to Victory, symbolizing the characteristics of the good sol- dier, patriotism, courage, thought and power. At the bases of the twc iouter piers will be four marble groups, typifying liberty, truth and peace. A frieze approxi- mately three hundred and seventy | feet ‘long, extending around the structure, will picture the departure | of the soldiers, the embarkatian camp the crossing of the Atlantic and other | gcenes in the soldiers’ life, including ; the return home. The names of six ! battles will be carved on the eas‘ | and west sides of the arch. In con- { junction with this triple arch are tc be erected in adjoining courts statues of the French poilus, the English tommies, the Italian and Belgian sol- diers. Mr. Bartlett has associated with iimself in this work Layton, Smith & Forsyth, architects. LEILA MECHLIN. 1 i i For Christmas. The kind of things that are usually put on conspicuous tables in the shops the last week before Christmas as suggestions to the late Christmas shopper. are just the kind of things that it is wise to avoid in selecting your Christmas presents for those of |vour friends who receive many gifts. And that is the advantage of early- bird Christmas shopping: you have time to think of something unusual, and you don't have to fall back on !the usual box of handkerchiefs, sew- ing basket or telephone address book with a French brocade cover that oc- curs to you as a last-minute pur- chase. . It is rather a clever idea to give something extremely useful for Christmas, and very few people would possibly take offense from such a gift nowadays. If you happen to have a little farm tucked off some- where in the country, or an orange grove in Florida or a prune ranch in California, you can perhaps send your friends such things as a crate of oranges, some very choice dried prunes, some hams or bacon where they "have been cured on your own farm. Home-made pickles or preserves make excellent Christmas gifts, though they are sometimes difficult to send, because they break so easily and are so0 heavy. | Often at this time of year when no special effort is made to attract Chrismas shoppers, you will see things that will really be quite suit- able and reasonable Christmi pres- ents that will not be shown later on. For merchants move along pretty much in-a traditional rut as far as Christmas gifts are concerned. It would take considerable temerity for a department store manager to spread a table at Christmas time with an array of egg beaters and double boil- ers and butter curlers that might, as a matter of fact, prove more accept- able than the bottles of perfume and satchet bags that they do display. —_— The black feathers used in mil- linery -are often tipped with silver. 150 feet | justice | ps From Paris Are Extremely Wide at the Hem dark blue broadcloth trimmed with gray astrakhan and embroidered with steel nail heads, arranged in a trellls design. It is worn with a one-plece frock of dark blue cloth, bat it can be used for several gowns. There is 2 new black velvet gown worn In Paris which has this cape at- tachment lined with white velvet. The gown itself is after the closely draped kimono model, which is in direct op- position to the wide skirts of the Second Empire. This frock is trimmed with white fur in the accepted manner, which means a high, loose collar and a wide, loose cuff. The cuffs on this frock are quite moderate fin size, however, as they look like little sis- ters of the rich. The woman who wears the gown in Paris carries a white fur muff, and adds to it a black velvet hat with a quill of white velvet. The evening gowns Imitate the aft- ernoon gowns in carrying their own capes. They are not of tulle in sea colors, such as Molyneux introduced last February, but they are of fringe made of metal beads. There is a gray velvet gown worn over here which has a simple bodice and an overskirt—if one may call it that—which is like an Egyptian orna- ment, for it consists of fringe made of jet and steel beads that hangs to the ankles and begins in a broad hip girdle. WOMEN In the Public Eye Mme. Le Breton. BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. It has been said that the greatest fortunes of the world are now to be found in Argentina, and that the social conditions of that country were less disturbed by the cataclysm of 1914 than those of any other nation. Dr. Tomas Le Breton, ambassador from Arggntina, and his stately wife give one the impression of being very firmly placed among the great ones of the southern hemisphere, and Mme. Le Breton is a type of grande dame which seems to’come exclusively ou! of the regions below the equator. Buenos Aires is, of course, the home of the ambassador, since all impor- tant citizens live there, just as all the French have domiciles in Paris and the RBritons one in London. But until coming to the United States, a part of each year was passed in the vast estancia in central Argentina, where the manager takes all the cares from the owner and where af- fairs are conducted almost on patri- archal lines. Being in the south tem- perate zone, what is summer here is winter there, and Dr. Le Breton had several years ago purchased a com- fortable villa ncar San Sebastian, Spain, where he and his fam passed at least three months of the year—the dull ones in Buenos Aires when there was nothing social trans- piring. no opera or theatrical at- tractions of note. This custom, th: ambassador hu kept up since com- ing to this_capital, but during the past summer madame, her niece and small children were compelled 1o make the journey alone, as momen- tous affairs kept_nearly all the diplo mats in Washington. The emba of Argentina is a coni- ing purchased by th ador, Dr. ) . whic | former amba i tuated on New Hampshi javenue, with ample chancellery spa facing on Corcoran street. This cs tablishment stands out as a center of of the highest and most 3 Mme. Le Breton has u perfectly trained servar been employed for years Ly ) MME. LE BRETON, her family, and whose loyalty and pride in their service seems remark- able in this era. Her young nlece, Mlee. Manuela_ Lloveras. who is a_per- manent member of the adds a_ charming touch to bassy functions, and gives it tional importance in the social Mme. Le Breton is in every a Latin. and follows the tra viewpoint of her country people. takes only a perfunctory interest in public questions. and the ballot, which is agitating the feminine world so violently in every other section, is household the em- addi- merely an academic theme to her. Her concern in life is to preside with grace over a very important house- hold and to be always in readiness to fulfill its multitudinous obligations. Her day Is divided,into parts devoted to social affairs, to domestic duties and to charity and religion, for so have the Latin women the world ov: conceived their proper method of liv- ing. So. too, is the income appor- tioned, to the pleasure and welfare of the family, for the sacred obligations of hospitailty and then for the relief of suffering and for the sustenance of religious establishments. Mme. Lo Breton has been influenced not in the slightest degree by the widely differ- ent viewpoint of her American asso- ciates, and leads the same life in Washington that she would in her splendid home in Buenos Aires or in the great estancia on the Argentine plains. —_— Southern Graham Bread. Take two-thirds of a cup of brows pugar. two tablespoonfuls of New Orleans molasses. one and one-half cups of sour milk, one teaspgon of baking powder, one teaspoon of soda, one teaspoon of salt, two cups of graham flour and one-half cup of seeded raisins. Bake in a slow oven for_one hour. : Menu for a Day. Breakfast. Stewed figs. Cereal. Omelet with chicken livers. Hot rolls. Jelly. Coffee. V Luncheon. Fried hominy. Creamed potatoes. Cold sliced veal. Tea. Dinner. Cream of pea soup. Crackers. Small sweet pickles Roast beef with grav: