Evening Star Newspaper, July 31, 1921, Page 65

THE BUNDAY BTAR, WASHINGTON, D. U, JULY 31, 1921—-PART 4 ' 70 Will the Empress Eugenie Silhouette Become Popular This Autumn? ADVANCE FALL FKOM JEAN PATOU IN GREEN VELVET EMBROIDERED WITH RED, GREEN AND YELLOW WOOL. 1T IS BANDED WITH FUR AT HEM AND SLEEVES. I BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. HAT are the chances for | the Eugenie silhouette? gy This seems to be the | and | propounded and other women wore. [She was criticised for wearing her skirts too short. though at worst revealed only a toe of her shoe: | though she has been blamed for stion. shorn of flour- | the crinoline, she really disliked it e ittt {In 1859 she scandalized the other ishes, that women ask most frequent- | o, (800, e, srantalized (he, LT Iy when the¥ talk about clothes. They | pearing at a_court ball sans érino- | may not put it just this way. for | line. (hus veginning a mavement that 3 . T Eradually led to its disappearance they may not see any connection be- | fom faehion entirely. Yet today tween Eugenie. that half-Spanish, |when we want to speak of sKirts half-Scotch ardente blond beauty | that are bouffant and ballooning we who ruled beside Louis Napoleon as | @1l them Empress Bugenie. Empress of France, and the bouffant | i skirts, form-fitting bodices and drop- OW easy it would be simply to ped shoulders that are peeping out | : here aud there in the firmament of say that the present is a transi- present-day fashions. | tional period as far as clothes are Perhaps it is enough to ask whether | concerned; that anything and every- bouffant skirts will supercede narrow |thing are the mode, not seeking be- mode worn at the beginning of her name: “It was a mixtore of all styles; Greek models weres associated with reign—the one that usually bears her | the panniers of Louis XVF's time; the basque worn by the amazons of the Fronde, with the hanging sleeves of the renaissance.” - This might as well be taken for a description of the mode of the present time. We have bofrowed from all sources—Greek, Egyptian, mediev; renaissance, Russian, Bulgarian. From | vidual frocks where the China and Japan we take many sug- gestions, while the dressmakers of the reign of Empress Eugenie barely touched upon this suorce. But what- ever our inspiration, we stamp our own seal upon it, just as truly as did the women of the other period. Now one of the essentials in launch- ing a distinctly new fashion is that men and women should have wearied of the last. And we have by no means e ——————————— ") The Dress That Rattled. was a spotless, shining home. sick room in which the man of house was stretched, more or helplessly, was a trifle shinier and more spotless than the rest of the house. The very air that en- tered was strained through spotless squares of cheese cloth, and the walls, devoid of pictures, were like still pool of whitewash. And the man on the bed was un- happy. He was at that trying stage of convalescence when men, especially, to whom invalidism is at all times a trial, are unhappy without very well knowing what makes them so. Then there sounded on the stair a subdued but unmistakable rattle. It came nearer. It stopped edruptly at the door, then bégan again, and rat- tled over to the bed. The man scowled. His wife bent over him. “Have you any more pain, Sam?" she asked. And her voice, sharp, clear cut, was a8 spotless as the room in which she stood. “No, 1_haven't. Why don’t you sit down? Don't bother me. T'll tell you when the pain’s worse.” And the man scowled again as the subdued rattle began again. Per- plexed, his wife sat down in the spot- less rocker and looked at her hus- band. Then there was voice as she said: “Sam, I'm going to town this after- noon. The doctor says you are get- ting on well and Myrilla is going to come and sit with you.” The man on the bed agreed, rather shortly. His wife rattled across the Toom. And down the hall, And down the stairs. And listening, with the sensitive ear of the sick-abed per- son, the man realized what made him acowl. His wife had too muck starch in her dress. That _afternoon Myrilla, youns, eager, full of importance because she was going to take her aunt's place and “sit up” with her uncle, slipped into the room. * There was no _sound from the bed. It The the less resolution in her AFTERNOON GOWN BY JEAN PATOU, OF BLACK SATIN WITH INDIAN SLEEVES OF BLACK NET EMBROIDERED IN WHITE. THE BODICE TIES OVER THE SKIRT WITH A SASH AT THE SIDE. or olinging ones. For if the bouffant skirts win out, then the snug rounded waist and droop shoulders, broad neath superficialities to find what really is the smart and the significant thing about the clothes presented? languishing hats—"a l1a Clarissa Har- {Every period, at least in modern 1_stood for a minute lookin, { lowe" they called them in Eugenie's |times, seema transitional. We think | sreut ine roam with dilivpfov:ll‘ on days—streamers, and ribbons are [of the Bugenie mode as being some- | her face. '. > bound to follow. As a matter of fact, although we designate the styles worn of the 1860 period those of Empress Eugenie, Eugenie herself was often out of sympathy with what dressmak: thing quite settled, when, as\a matter of fact. it reflected the feeling of a period just as unsettled, just as rest- less as our own. Says one of Empress Eugenie's ers | court. ladies iny characterizsing the® 8o she Tennis Shoes Neiseless. “Poor Uncle Sam,” she mused. “An- out a thing to look’at” went down- to+the garden o s b chored in that bare white room with- | An HOME NURSING AND HEALTH HINTS | BY M. JESSIE LEITCH. and gathered pink roses and =pikes of vivid larkspur and put them in a glass, which she carried softly back to the sick room. As she placed the glass on the table her uncle opened his eyes. “I didn’t hear you come smiled. “I've got my tennis shoes on. They don't make a mite of noise.” And Myrilla smiled back at him. He looked at the flowers as if he liked them. “But your aunt won't have flower he said. “She says they use in” he Myrilla made a little grimace. “They cheer you up. I don't suppose you knew the rose bush you brought from the farm was in bloom, did you?" she asked. “No. Are those roses from the old bush?” And the man's hand went out to them caressingly. So they talked about roses, and about larkspur, and soils, and rain- alls, and before it seemed possible tue big clock downstairs struck 4. The hall door opened gently. Myrilla, going downstairs to wel- come her aunt, found her untying par- cels on the kitchen table. Learns More About Nursing. “I had to buy myself some rubber heels and a couple of soft wash dresses that don't take the starch like these old calicos,” she explained. “T couldn’t imagine why your uncle scowled every time he saw me since he began to get better. till I read in a paper that sick folks get powerful upset over little things. And tnese old calicos stiffen up so0. They rattle like paper.” Myrilla beamed approvingly. The little wash dresses of soft blue crepe were very practical and very becom- ing. Her aunt’s very angles were softened and her thin face flushe with the girl's praise. 2 The rubber-heeled shoes were a great success. Myrilla thought the time auspicious to break the news of the flowers she had placed in the sick room. “I was thinking of them myself,” her aunt said. “He never takes much stock of flowers when he's up, but I've noticed he doesn’t miss much when he’s lying in bed.” For Sam’'s wife had discovered, as most nurses do, that the senses of sight and hearing, of smell and touch, are highly magnified when one is il that many an appeal may reach medium of, d the patient through the 2Y® OF eAr. | | | NNE RITTENHOUSE Writes on the Chances of Returning to an Old Style. Short Sleeves as Things of the Past—-The Necessity of Revamping and Altera- tion—Low-placed Waist Line Reappears Again and Again in Evening Frocks—Pre- dicted Changes in Evening Wraps. ON THE LEFT, EVEN TURQUOISE, wearled of our straight-line frocks. There is no longer any doubt but that we have done with the very short skirts, though it may take till au- tumn to clear the atmosphere of the fashion, and moralists will probably continue to prate against them as if they were a new style instead of one fast fading into obscurity. The sleeve question seems settled, too. though it is certainly not following & Eugenie | 1 line at the present time. i | We no lonzer discuss the relative merits of the short sleeve and the long. fitting sleeves save for the very indi- line re- the short slesve is done time frocks. At present | quires it, for in d: the long sleeve that has taken its | place hangs free and loose. The close-fitting long sleeve that is often as trying to the woman with very thin arms as to the woman with too fat arms is in rather bad grace. x %k % PBUT when it comes to bouffant skirts —the way is not so clear. The comment has been passed about by those who have watched the new clothes appear in Paris and smart NING COAT BY JEAN PATOU IN BLACK AND COVERED WITH HEROIC DESIGN IN SILVER EMBROIDERY ON THE RIGHT. EVENING GOWN BY JEAN PATOU, OF WHITE BRO- CADE WITH CLUSTER OF RED ROSE LEAVES ON ONE SHOULDE! BABYLONIAN BELT IS OF RHINESTONES AND PEARLS. e flowing sleeve or the tight- | French resorts that though the bouf- fant skirts are worn they are more often worn by mannequins than oth- ers, and that women who could suit themselves in the selection of their dlothes clung to the straight-line frock. A few ballooning frocks at the present time create very much more stir than a dozen that hang in straight lines just as skirts have been inclined to hang for several years. Likewise it has been said that the French woman seems as much wed as ever to her close-hanging, straight-line frock, though it was not quite so naive in its simplicity as the chemise frock that has persisted for so many seasons. To a great many women the most important point that any drastic change in fashion raises is the adapt- abllity of clothes on hand to these changes. In the idle hours of mid- summer we are wont to go over dur wardrobe hanging back in the closets or laid away in tar bags at home. ‘We figure out with an accuracy that varies inversely wita the size of our bank account just what frocks will be possible survivors for another season, just how great must be alter- ations. Not for several seasons will so much alteration and revamping be necessary as this. We cannot slide along as easily as we have been do- ing wearing frocks and wraps se- renely until they are worn out. For it is not an easy thing to bring clothes up-to-date when skirts are growing longer. And apparently length of skirts is to be the outstanding re- quirement. With_the bodice it may not be so hard. There is a tendency to bring it in more snugly. but this can be ac- complished with the old loose-line bodice. Sleeves may be changed fair- 1y easily. For offen the new sleeve is made of contrasting lace or net. To give uniformity you may use the same sort of net to make draperies on your skirt. There are bouffant skirts aplenty, but if you like you may make this drapery straight, letting It hang from the sides. A sketch of a new frock by Jean Patou shows how the right hip may be draped with. a straight hanging of embroidered net to match the loose long sleeves, while the other hip has a looped hanging of the black satin to matck the frock. * %k x IT may not be so easy (o revamp your evening frock. Frequently evening bodices are fairly high in tront and back, the decolletage being ‘wide at the shoulder to form the boit. or bateau line. You will often find evening frocks that csver the arms L AN OVERCOAT FOR MOTORING, and bodice about the same length. [} \ Another six months may see some | change in evening wraps, but, for- | % tunately for the woman who possesse 4 wraps of this sort as left-overs from? f last season, there Seems to be very! | little radical change here. True, it has | been observed that the cape. when | / worn as part of the day costume was no longer held to the body. but was | allowed to hang free and loose from the neck and shoulders, often being blown off to form a sort of back ground for the wearer. true this may for daytime id, shawl collar. As time advances we coats made wit] then gradually the wrap or coat that makes the hip the widest part of the lhouette may disappear. There is a raight line belted velvet coat in Jean Patou’s collection that may give some inkling as to how these coats 111 be cut, following the lead and the demands of the frocks that seem to be coming to the fore. For always the tricate prgblem and decisionp depgndable and practical. + It has;been .said that, after the | | wife of ‘the.President and of the | Vice President. the wife of the dean | of the diplomatic corps occupies the loftiest tier in the American court | city, as Washington 18 pleasantly de- } scribed. Mme. and has been | happy ‘in_filling her duties ac- ceptably and without too solemn a conception of their fmportance. After | the first and second ladies of the | land, she is the guest par excellence; at all purely feminine gatherings and no one has been more amiable in ac- cepting invitations to the full limit of her time. But Washington knows Mme. Jus. serand_in graver roles than the so cial. During the vears of the war | she became the pivot of all activities which centered about alding the country of her adoption, for, like #o many chatelaines of foreign estab- lishments in Washington, she is American on both sides of lier fam- ily, though a Parisienne by accident of ‘birth. As Miss Elise Richarde. daughter of one of the members of the Interna tional firm of bankers, Munro & Co. she passed her girlhood in Paris, and her first visit to the home of her par- ents, which was in Boston, came after her marriage and the appointment of her husband as ambassador from the French _republic. Jusserand achieved her greatest triumph in war work through her personal influence on the movement to adopt French or- phane. Living here so long and al- ways showing the most cordl pathy for any worthy benevolent or philanthropic_cause, when it became known that she was the leader of the crusade, so universally indorsed by the authorities in France, known as the war orphans mothers, the response was so generous and so widespread that her task was rendered compara. tively easy. Before the United States officially took the cause of the allies as its own Mme. Jusserand had organized dis- tinct units to help in various ways In behalf of the Red Cross she inau- gurated those Sunday afternoon con- certs, when the greatest of prima donnas sang for charity and when some marvelous musicians in amateur ranks journeyed long distances to participate. Since the war Mme. Jusserand has shown & kindly interest in the many Frence war brides who came to this country with the returning forces. She has encouraged in many practic: ays the formation of a French- American_soclety, to be composed of the children of these marriages, with a view to keep up the historic asso- ciation during the world war and to perpetuate the feelings which in- spired the _armies of the alliance. More than five thousand members of the ~ expeditionary ~forces married while overseas, and of this total of brides more than three thousand were French. Mme. Jusserand is striving to have these marriages recorded in specially prepared volumes to be kept here and in France, and where also will be entered the children of these unions. Casserole of Lamb. Half roast two and one-half pounds of loin of lamb and cut it into steaks. Boil one-half cup of rice in salted water for ten minutes, drain it and add to it two cups of good gravy with one blade of mace and a little grated nutmeg. Cook slowly until the rice begins to thicken, remove it from the re, stir in one-half cup of butter. and when melted add the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Butter a ci h, sprinkle the steaks with salt and pepper/ dip them in melted butter and put them in the buttered dish. Pour over the gravy that comes from the ks, d the rice and simmer for f an hour. Savory Tomato and Rice. Put one and one-half cups of stock with one cup of stewed and strained tomato over the fire. When with flowing drapery, though the bare arm especially combined with a bodice fairly high in the front is a good se- lection. The low-placed waist line reappears again and ‘again in evening frocks, though here. too. the bodice is often somewhat scanter than it has been. producing a less roomy blousing. You will have to admit that the propor- tions of a frock are better when the very long waist is combined with a fairly long skirt than when it is used with & skirt so short as to make skirt WOMEN in the Public Eye Mme. Jusserand. BY MARGARET B. DOWNING. In the complex machinery required to keep the social body in har- monious relations, Mme. Jusserand, wife of the French ambassador, dean MME. JUSSERAND, from ‘Wife of the ambassador France. of the diplomatic corps, occupies an exalteq position. She is guide and counselor of the inexperienced among the women who make up diplomatic soclety and the arbiter of what|boiling add one cup of well washed rice &nd one-half teaspoon of salt. is good form in this capital and)ge jightly with a fork occasionally of what must be .dome to meet \ the requirements of the accepted |one-half etiquette. Almost twenty years . in s Washington have given Mme. Jus-|cover serand a clear insight into this in- DESIGNED BY SOFT CLOTH IS WARM TAN IN COLOR, AND THE SEVERAL SEAMS ARE FINISHED WITH WOOL EMBROIDERY. rendered her | JEAN PATOU. THE coat or outside wrap must be sub- ordinated to the frock beneath. Im- portant as outdoor apparel may be. fashions are built from the froc out, not from the coat in. Indeed, when in the mid-nineteenth century skirts became most bouffant coats were out of the question and the shawl was accepted as a matter of necessity quite as much as because it fitted into the style requirements of a day when to be languishing was more to be desired than to be vivacious, and women glided rather than walked. So you see we are far, far, indeed, from a literal interpretation of the mode of .Empress Eugenie. We cer- tainly need not turn to shawls, as sub. stitutes for coats. though their grace ful sweeping lines may sometimes tempt us through sheer effectiveness. But_the loose. open long sleeve of our frocks has already brought out a loose coat sleeve. The closer arm- hole of the new frocks gives us a chance to substitute ser coat sleeves for the baggy shoulder treat- ment requir by the kimono sleeve. Knitting a Sweater. Whatever You' do about a new sweater, don’t decide on one without thinking about it sufficiently to get one that is worth while. For really there is nothing more u than a poorly made and poorly <hol veater. It is an easy matter to get books of sweater designs and it is, furthe an easy matter to get cards of sam- ples of yarns of various sorts. With those’two sorts of samples, you need make no quick choice. To begin with, consider well your clothes. color scheme when you are choosing a new sweater. You don't want & bri i must wear it with pink and lavender frocks. You don’t want an old-blue sweater if the hat you must wear with it is of bright yellow. Be Sure of the Color. And then remember this—it is something that many persons for- get: A flame-colored wool sweater will not be becoming to you if & flame-colored silk frock is unbecom- ing. There arc a good many persons who apparently think that any color in a_sweater is a possible color who vould balk at half the colors in the rainbow for their frocks and hats and suits. Their reasoning is ob- viously false. What is unseemly is unbecoming. To be sure, we may safely wear more vivid colors in sweaters than we customarily wear in frocks. But the unbecoming color shonld be taboo always, whatever the medium In which we expect to wear i The new weaves of wools are so lovely that they in themselves are a temptation, and so are all the new colors—or new manifestations of the 0ld colors. ‘Tangerine, of course— one of the new shades—is really a color that would once have been called orange. But as tangerine it is u lovely color in the soft wool or silk and wool that is used for our sweaters. The silk and wool mixtures, per- baps, are especially tempting. for they are so soft and silky, a com- Lination of the best in both silk and wool for sweaters. They are infinite- Iy less hard in appearance than all silk. Of course. infinitely less expen- ve, as far as that goes. One very beautiful silk and wool sweater is made of pure white, with a border and tuxedo collar of the same color, knitted in_ big checks. The only touch of difference is a narrow black patent leather belt, with & black-covered buckle. With a Line of Black Another very attractive sweater is a short hipsiength slip-on of gray shetland _made with elbow sleeves and a U-sh rtfl . The neck, sleeves and lower edges are bor- dered with a tiny line of black angora. It is crocheted on, as such 2 narrow edge must often be. ‘There is a sweater knitted of navy blue three-fold saxony, tuxedo style, with the long turn-back collar done in checks, and with a border along the edge of the collar of henna- colored wool. This border was knit- ted separately and sewed in place after it was finished. Then there is a tan sweater. with 2 stripe at the bottom of black and orange—around the cuffs{and the lower edge. With it is scarf with the ends of inches, then with a band of orang: five or six inches wide, and then with the center portion of black. This is really & most unusually and striking sweater, and the same idea could be worked out with gray or soft blue instead of-the tan. Another sweater is made with a long waist which is sewed into a girdle about four inches wide. .The girdle gves twice around the hips and ties on the side. There are the cross-over veaters of shetland or iceland end in sash ends that tie the back. These are love! p flame or orange shad worn with white skirts. And thereé zre collarless sweaters of shetland and iceland wool that are made to. wear with scarfs that go around the meck snd come down'to the - waist, ‘ the fringed ends held lnth‘:.r belt of bdlack -or