Evening Star Newspaper, June 26, 1921, Page 59

. : ) I . LI Dl 11 : Paris and French Production of “The Pi , ESIGNERS Across the Ocean Look to the Stage for the Creation of New Frocks to Show American in August—Opening of American Musical Comedy Creates Enthusiasm Among Dressmakers for a Certain Kind of New Costume Which May Be Taken as a Forerunner of Autumn Fashions—The Long,Full Skirts—Odd Sleeves Exploited—Parasols That Catch the Eye. . - 'THIS COSTUNME SHOWS A PORE BONNET FROM LEWIS OF PARIS, IN NATTIER BLUB SILK CREPE, WITH LONG BLACK LACE VEIL FALLING TO HEM OF SKIRT AT BACK. GOWN FROM_ MAISON CLE OF WHITE . GEORGETTE, EMBROIDERED IN SZiK, WITH BODICE OF F) » T ' UNUSUAL TURBAN OF GOLD CLOTH, BY LEWIS OF PARIS, WITH BLACK LACE VEIL COVERING CHIN, CAUGHT AT ONE SIDE OF TURBAN WITH PINK ROSES. DLACK EARRINGS WITH JADE PENDANTS EACH SIDE OF TURBAN. LACE VEIL FORMS A YOKE AND SHORT SLEEVES TO A DECOLLETE FROCK. BY ANNE RITTENHOUSE. are with the French their .nlhhll-l ' ; m for a sensational production of E OF AMERICA do not 100k |3 "syccessful costume play. It is well to the stage to set our|that we do. at the mid-season. fashion. Rather, we do not| France turns itself inside out to produce remarl e costumes ¢! regard the gowns worn be- | are ‘feelers.” If the public lik Rind the American footlights as , if the dressmakers see virt prophecies. | in them, they are modified u: w: o American buyers when ex In Paris they order these thINES|piijon of clothes begins immediatel differently. The stage and the race|after the Grand Prix is run at Deau- track are the supreme experimen.|Ville, on the first Sunday of August. tal stations for new fashions. The| You who may live thousaands of|. miles away from Paris an o French actresses lend themselves to | Thid AV (GO0 JRED S0 ¢ i the experiment with grace, enthusi-|fact that one of your menfolk fought!, asm and earnestness. They realizs| there, or one of your womanfolk an- - een ere, may not r 2 the importaance of being in earnest.| i pyjrs, under the guise of expen- They are not merely pleasing an|sive amusement, réaches out her fin- sudience by creating roles; they are|sers and touches your pocketbook. Her theaters and race tracks, her | aatmate cogs in the huge machinery '.;.rity bazaars, are the gource from which is the heart of Paris, also its| which springs your blue serge frock fortune; the industry of clothing | which );7‘ bought for $30 in epart ent shop in your te omen. Mot wear the exact kind of thing that In this country there is & Strong| paris projects of the stage and &t -the effort being made by leading design-!races. The original fashion pasat through many hands before it gets to GOWN OF MAUVE TAFFETA AND CHIFFON, WITH PINK AND PURPLE GRAPES PENDANT FROM WAIST LI . BACK OF FROCK OF CHIFFON 18 CAUGHT OVER ARMS WITH PINK ROSES. A RHINESTONE COMB IS WORN WITH THIS COSTUME. . made in France, for there is & strong}and came into high fame om a melo- h try that we de.|dious tune. The name caught the fealing. in thin cpuntcy Sha fancy of the Paris producers. for the to place their apparel upon the 4 Y : o m’ such & manner zhupu wil | Your closet. It undergoes changes as : = S S s opinion from the stage. He makes|is more significant than the one with & it passes, and Paris may have changed [ % A one as a foundation for a large pink | the pink plume, because it introduces attract attention and biaze a path for ;’éief,fi?.‘&" before it arrives for your 1 — o Ve B rose hnc a m-\m;nou- mm;I phm;m i #t & new use for (e I Nh\'t'lLd 'rnl-"‘(; fashions. The actresses, how- - o - s s hat to be worn here in the|not the only tui that does ever, do not always want to experi-| It is for this reason that the Amer- ) S AN R evening. let us hope it will be limit- | trick in Paris. It is part of a wide- > T fer| ican buyers. the French dressmake e R . ed to dinners and dances and will not | spread movement to make the veil ment with new, ideas. They prefer|, ;g artist designers are attendin ¥ S et \‘ ! 25 make it8 appearance in the seats of | into a collar or bertha. This is a to be faithful to Paris.” They feel|production of‘La Dame en Roa SRS Beasn’ v the theaters. To sit behind it'would | modern adaptation of a medieval a which in good American is “The Pink * .8, ~ S o give' one the right to demand t! fashion, when e georgette was = that their fest are placed on firmer( pUgCR, 1%, 007 Sical comedy through g 2 price of the ticket from the box office. | wrapped from chin to shoulder by ground. Their frocks may not be|ypich Hasel Dawn played the violin Lewis makes a second turban which | wealthy ladies. I‘e’mr in Belgium and France after velop a French ldea for acceptance country s ars to. have uit - S 2 B by American women in & better man- | wild over & rose. It is a sigaificant - p e her e In W asiiaston ner than the French‘do, who natu-|fact that she has used two plays 4 ’ ) ; R in IMT8 Mea, Hoover jolned the based on the name of this flower to 1 3 i rally visualize their own women when spring upon the Waiting public & rave . b 4 Y retained a most cordial interest i designing. They take for granted|ojution in wearing apperel. i In the cational thetitution. Leland ‘Stantord t the wearer of the\gown will lend Last autumn she intended the. play a e aae artiotry and some. | calied “LrHomme a la Rose" to be the - University, she is an adherent advo- 5 Vehicle for the introduction of Span. | . g ) » ; ‘ . 3 cate of the education of the sexes on thipg of the caprice given to it by|ish gowns. America has not accepted § z / PUbll c E e & common footing. Bhe scknowledges by - . o 3 the French woman. They take too| this hoop-skirted, fashion, but she has . . y v as ey e been Influenced by it. It one doubts| E5 a senior and the friendship evolved '"‘" foct I auir Revienty to have into a life partnership of the most e much for granted. * % x I'l' is important, because of these ‘. conditions, that we in America it proved by seeing women, young |- : / 52 ; ) E i from colle acquaintances thinke this ':l‘odllloll is excellen BY MARGARET B®DOWNING. |for man and woman alike. It bringe out the chivalry in the growing boy With thrones stili crashing and for- | and subdues his animal® nature and mer royaities living on the proceeds | keeps him on his mettl. Birls are brilliant students. of their jewels, Mrs. Herbert Hoover | T 1, Uf Knowledge | more | esbliy® observed at the College Women's | though it has been proven they do Clud not long ago, it is the wise [not retain it as & as the ling women who takes stock of herself |Youth. Few boys, Mrs. Hoovet mo- badly coiffed and’ well coiffed, wear- % ing the tortoise shell spnnu%bmh,} one has omly to look into th¢ shop N N "l windows snd read the advertisements R ) to knaw what publicity is . Eiven to| ¥ Za Q he embroidered Spanish shawl. JANOTHER FROCK OF 2\ x ok wal - TAFFETA WITH GILDED DESIGN, = HE seader ° who ldoks -~ at' the| BODICE EXTENDING . IN LONG sketches drawn’ by our attist at{ POINT TO KNEES IS EDGED WITH the. opening “night-of “La_Pame cn|GOLD RIBBON. SLEEVES OF GOLD and decides what particular line she | Liced e Colese Gavn. Roge” may shrink’ with: terror Q(;m; RIBBON, LATTICED. A WREATH could adopt to keep the wolf from rry oft the academic laurels. thought that we' of the ‘trotfey~car | OF- FLOWERS IS WORN AROUND | that important houses are behind the|that never, never will she be per-|the door. Mrs. Hoover, in her young it gives them a masculine FOREREAD, production. By this token Americans | suaded to wear a full skirt. Vain ex-| days, taught school, but she has|Gine °of faitnens and makes them wear such-clothes next autumn. Buf ) ~TT———————eeeeee___ | feel sure they will be greeted by an- m‘l’:“ graduated since those years into an|ladies with all the manly virtuer hould remember the vital point| terati + < i ) 7 expert ecomomist in the larger ‘The Hoover boys are too youn yet one sho h Lrox eration of the fact that.skirts|String of Paris houses open for exhl-| fashion that the new bodite is not pe: '8 for colleme. bUt no Goube Wl!n‘lh’e‘!‘r new fashions are launched in theirmore often in nin.life. The|not taken unawares. They have seen|bullt of different material from the most arresting form. When they are |'smart- wonm: 3 el Tht . L isand | kifnd . can see her services sought In the |their parents into & ed seat -of omen of Paris have sursly|this thing happen before in Paris and used matter of household economies learning. and subway habit will be asked to nd makes them other version of the fashion when the is surely an arresting minor in the Paris procedure, which is that|grow wider and . We see it|Dbitions of new clothes. The wise are|only tight and broad-wi d, well as the restricted meaning. One ¢y O JRC MU RO G0N ik k| offered to the public, they are shorn|lengthened their skirts, not to the de. |they are watching these stage clothes | georgette skirt with a widely scal. of much brilliancy. - They are made | gree ‘advocaled on the stage, but in|38 & mariner watches the needle on'a|loped hem, for instance, cafrries eagerly as those of her husband in —_—— serviceable for the average woman:|a sufficient manner to be a rébuke to| compass. slender bodige wrinkled about th H Not even & motor-car could accommo- | those who consider the . extre ahoss| What, therefore, is of exceeding in-| waist line—built of flesh: omemade Petticoats. 2 date the wide skirt worn by “The[skirt.a thipg of fashion. But the|terest and importance to the man or|georgette. B Pink Lady. transition from one fashion to another| Woman who has gone to France to| Sleeves made of gold ribbon placed 8 3 In making petticoats from any- -| 'We have become accustomed to the ‘s gentle’ and gradual. duy clothes for the American market | in latticed effect over the bare arm - i thing but quite heavy material it ia should be of interest to the American|from shoulder to wrist are trifies 3 a good plan to make a double guwe . In actual life no one.has attempted e Sirts to wi ublic which sits on this side of the| which quickly catch the eye of those § R reRine o SO OF akirts which.are Dater walting for new ldeass And|who want something nnususs in an E N St SraReareney Tady." The Teason they ars wmapiok|none can help but feel that it is sig-| unusual gown. The sleeve that is % of frocks and separate skirts are as Tore of an immmeciey are making | pifcant that Parla chooses to intro.|formed from the back drapery of the thin as you please. It s up to th Torn Jn “The Mascsion than those|dice dosens of new ideas during this|bodice 1 another thing of interest. : ; : ity That they. show 1on ayith @ Rose’ 18| tourlst scason through the medium of | Mauve colored chiffon is attached to : R R | Datticoat eaeath o pravent tha Suh, mirtation of the Parie nrigied deter-:| ; "American play to American audi-|the shoulders of a mauve taffeta % shine from showing through. Bte & pliant publa ror SHists to cre- | grcés, It shows where her thoughts |frock, the loose ends drawn forward - ’ 106 & itanie. Aonbiar 4 o Tons. Bome op thic for Spanish fash-|o7e™ rhat “brings the affalr to the|to the arms and caught with pink ; : i s e, Jome of these gowns really are 1% of'our ‘eyes. roses at elbow and wrist, Thi Detticonta st home:. A OUr-plech early . rs actually sug- PP, trives the most attrac 3l | pattern is perhaps the best. This gestive of Elizabethan days. They i{ 3re.ghe clothes of a generation tnat “GEYOND the outstanding fact of the I 08y ho/ has o 3 requires a front, a back and twe | the ‘memory of ne oldoni” tapand, no distended skirt as shown In the|idea of copying the full skirted taf-| K&l : side gores. There is no placket hole, The potent reason behln; :m A::_ play, there are fascinating minor reg: gowri ‘with {ts bunches of pink X the petticoat being slipped on over Lraction of these clothes for the Amer. | things.in it to intercst every Amerl-| 3% PRrple, £rabes con, upilse this 3 T : the head. a drawstring or rubber ¢an buyer who is in Paris is the fact | can woman, evin the one who insists| jo® O % 00T Bearf that protects iy fastening it around the waist. dances, yet gives to her arms a grace- 8 ‘Washable satin in white or paste * ful butterfly drapery. The armlets shades is a good seleétion for the ) with the pink roses are good and she " x = San ‘adopt one of two of these if she = petticoat to wear beneath the or- V. izee . = wishes to create a streak of envy in gandy or other transparent cotton I'Summer Fads ands Fancies | %t v o t §yshe got the idea.. S » 5 5 k . 5 A ‘paraspl is carried by the girl \ The petticoat is usually made . ‘who wears the most sensational frock 2 straight, without ruffie or flounce. 7 IERE are some charming rose-, serge or Poiret twilt or taffeta. It is m\gfl: I Srresling Jven. (1t looks Sometimes it is finished with luvge x “leaf hats, made of .petals of |8n easy matter, very often, to pick up argantuan pink = rose. scallops the bottom that ure [ - enough of some figured crepe or chif- h p worked in hand buttonholing. Aga! crepe. curved and curled at the| fon among the remnants to. make a & . L Fee it is finished with a four or five .+ _edges, and attached to a frame | pair of sleeves and to serve for fac- a%gn!"g‘dr:‘l' & ?'::“ n‘;{[g’;*; L .‘:eg i - inch hem, which is finished by ma- 8o that they suggest an inverted roge. | Ings, as.well. in & summer frock. | JAPCRC, PSP ¥ gl | Siine hemuching S . —_— Paris, you know, has gonme in for 4 D i ot e stk ‘ Square parasols are among the nov-| Much ribbon is utilized in the latest| ., (%0 % FG JTCR S g8 RIne (n Tor the sport skirt or gingham frock n elties- in this season. when. parasols|of the summer clothes. It is used| 3 straight white petticoat of poplin er are no novelty. They are really very | occasionslly for shoulder straps onj wide striped pique Is an economical ttractive, covered with ruffies or with | evening frocks, and it is used to stitch| 3 selection. i flat to lace or other transparent fab-. 3 : e econmiEal wBeh S Sed ands of ribbon or fringe.’ " e o rics to simulate stripes. fioorwaya_ in_ summar; they a3 sal i F Daolen- frocke made of A wingham, . etty frock is made w. n esitate to carry one of green 2 . er’é\p:rupgenup and sleeves, with a| Black and black and white are A e At gretn or hiua fnished at tne bottom with maching te of blue taffeta over it; but.|smartly combined in some of the most | errands in the streeet. Today, 1 ADY {:fim{-" ‘;o‘ little square extension)unusual clothes for the street. One|some .glaring oversight, “1;..‘"’“ hwy .« shallow flounce attached to the pet- g 3 - |shows a skirt of black worn with @ |protect ourselves grom th aday ticoat by means of a neat cording. Syskithe walet "‘:L. ? 1| caBg Jacket of blati and white checks, [ g,,."':.“ o from Sithe;midiey, |Maoy | women have practically .2New slip-on blouses .are made .ol| wi ack gloves and haf brains and from\ the level afternoo! eliminal petticoa helv’ym'lfl);pw:v&n Ml;iche'&l'!yh blfigk' 3 gxn whl:h h?lln%s ol;‘r]oey‘el!.h w'nyl; -l(:-»m-;:ufhlmfll. t'h‘lrldr:lb:;' sl ottom- o Y t} cause fashion has shelv . Ewing. arou the 3 L o The idea of outspreading wings on | Be e para. by 5) provide camisole and petticoat in ono the heads is a good one that finds|sol This season Paris recalls it. It 5 the peace suecessor of the war | the conserving of national food stocks. | and are scarcely any mbre trouble frock of English sateen, printed| roments. Like Grecian victories,|umbrella. It I8 as gay as a perakeet| Mrs. Hoover is always a bit amused [ to make than pettic T - | inysmall figures, like “old-fashionedl gy young girls at a dance flaunt out-|in a jungle. & B ‘when she is ed how she e | usually finished at the shoulders with catloo, is made with .trimmings of kg eaa- wings of- tullé and brilliants, The_pink rose affair carried by |absorbed in food conservation. It is like | a ribbon strap. They are ectall white organdy. There is & saah, and| ¢ seathers and of metal work. “The Pink Lady” is not poch-mak.|24king & man thrown overboard how | desirable to wear under -pi frillsat neck and arms of the white, 3 ing. It is oné novel sunshade in a|he learned to swim—that is, if he does | frocks that would show any line bound--with & narrow bias banding| . There is & most attractive parasol|hundred. . learn, and is saved his own exer- | where petticoat and gamisole meet. A ofithe figured sateen. “|ot silk with ruffies of tulle dotted Frxx tions. With the other victims of the | rather quaint idea of some women is G adtas i oy s thickly with big chennile dafs. Boxer outbreak in China, Mr. and:¢o have ‘these made of fi PR S VAT o mestle thing i+iwouia be M5 BT fhcohLhn koL i | laghesh mhs Sorp e S0 one o frock or under sul N a louse. fagoting running around and around| lanvin has Iriade [yoime charmivg it the fashion would become|in tne beleagured “hidden city” OF | For the rest they sre made of mul therfigure. . s Seross the bust and falling off the|COT™MORIy accepted in this country!|starve, They went about the task 83 | aywn, washable satin or crepe ¥ mart-1fnen frocks are made|shouiders. Thi me idea is copied [ Let daring soiils go forth with bright | earnestly as anybody' would under such | chine, S inds ‘of fagoting. dohe ' with|most successfully in cotton frocks for | green umbrellas on gay handles in the | Sircumstances, The, Fooyem were o8 —— ;ame color ‘as the linen, be' that e Gabris, ‘mith one o ired | not -days of summer. The multitude| 1n Pekin befors leaving for the in Oven Pot Roast. . . » Ylolet, ruse, blue or brown. . | 00 0 section of white batistem|Will follow. In.crowded thorough- terior, where Mr. Hoover engi- Wipe three pounds of showlder -of : V ' i iy ‘ E 1" Ffie skirt that endd’in points fs by|®! on cords, " | fares the parasol would be as much | Beering contracts, when ‘the terror L £ & mulbancs ‘aff & hoop. akirt, DUt the| BeEnn - 1y e e Decones. b {1amb, place n & deep. eartimbmare.or 1 mfl:n:&&‘“:ld' th‘n“m amme "'.-‘ The shoulders are coming in for a i B * iron pan and nearly cover with boll- frogks me & world does not spend all of its time | normal virtue with Mr. Hoover, and o * rts good deal of attention, anyway, in 7 talked the panic.stricken |ing water. Cover closely . and ;eo0k Haye ‘akirts cut 1% points: ‘Trocks . Amother thing Is the |In the city during four months of hot | B, 800T \18LES, 5L Palicwing him [ 1n a moderate oven for two hours 1. s0rts of devices are used to hat hangs from the;weather. und Mrs. Hoover to ration what £00d | , 43 one cup of potatoes it h dice, b hold times £ Y 2 gfifi?‘l‘m- of a frock bulit with a|shoulders, sometimes from ‘When a master-milliner like Lewis | was Jerns “mt;:'l:lge '::nn:flt o) e fourth eup oF sllosd “w::; a5 matérial POD- 'wool .embroidery. expression in both hats and coiffurelis rocks, of such soft fal ch stiff fabric ai' organdi : . 'One is. to place the off-the-shoulder line, to tl of Paris begins. to work on gold tur. | STan! n B g “ s T ‘ This {s & feature of a good man: B &0 2 ft and inted Mrs. Hoover |cup of diced carrots, salt : \ ; e Arothec 1 1o cor st oot o1 Joils | bans. during ‘June:it is ‘taken by the | Soommiasary. 1t was @ LhFiiling ad- |poF io season and cook fgr or T 2 S \b¥:means of several rows of cording|of Bu e wise as a sure’sign that this kind of| venture, and was the foundation of |hour. Remove uw“mnirt -:nfl vu:au{ A SENSATIONAL GOWN OF PINK TAFFETA IN SEVERAL TONES, EMEROIDERED WITH ROSES MADE| R4 fhe Jesiied form tp the hipa: *f - i | Bead Sovteing i "be Sered n” Au: | that simest uncanny sente of ssving |bies, boll down ine liguid o, Shout ,-/F TAFFETA. THE PARASOL IS A PINK ROSE, HANDLE OF GREEN JOOD WITH RED THORNS. TURBAN,| 'Sraiparent siceves of . figtred)on a good many of the lerger, Gar-| Lewis has put these turbans on the | which the Becrstary of Commerce'and{with two or three tablespgonfuls ot JADE BY LEWIS, IS OF GOLD CLOTH WITH PINK ROSE AND PLUNE. X “are used ‘in’frockas of 'dark blue den-party type of hats. o # heads of those who influence public'Mrs. Hoover -showed during the red flour. =