The evening world. Newspaper, January 7, 1922, Page 18

— g ~——"— THE EVENING WORLD'S FASHION REVIEW SECTION, SATURDAY, JANUARY 7, 1929, (ee ee a Smart Attire for the Winter Sports By Mildred Lodewick. Copyright, 1922, (New York Frening Warld) By Vress. Publishing Co. © CTION in a cold climate is as natural an outcome of mere existence as song is to a bird, or dancing to a debutante, The wide blue sky with soft angora clouds, the - plains of dinmond-¢rusted snow, in- vite one out to breathe frosty air and indu)ge in sports that are the most exhilarating of any season of the year. There are as many kinds of winter sports ag there are of sum- Mer sports—skating, skiing, tobog- Ganing, snow-shoeing, ice-yachting, licckey, curling and bob-sleighing. The most popular ones for city people who can get tothe open space of ice but for short periods of time, by way of a late afternoon train per- haps, or on «a Saturday or Sunday, are skating and hockey, Of course, the indoor rink affords one oppor- tunity for these sports, which, if one cannot get out in the open, is a great comfort indeed to the sport en- thusiast and all who appreciate the value of physical exercise. Just as sport costumes in summer are the gayest and most distinctive, so the winter sport costume exhibits the cheerful spirit of the sport, and on the rinks one sees some very at- tractive outfits, And a costume for skuting is a wise investment, for it Saves the suit or frock one might choose to wear otherwise a great deal of hard wear, I have designed a smart little costume consisting of a sleeveless black velvet jacket worn over a one-piece frock of red and gray plwidsd wool. The frock is simply made, with a gray suede belt marking the waistline, while black velvet binds the scallops around the bottom. These scallops are a good feature, as they open upto lend extra width when necessary. I am sure many a girl has experienced having the seams of her narrow skirt rip at the bottom, The gray color in the dress fabric is repeated on the jacket in the form of squirrel banding, which outlines the drop-arm-hole, and also marks two small pockets in each side. And as skating permits one to pose and sway in picturesque fashion, the long black silk tassels which drip from the points of the wide sleeves and emphasize the movement of the Woarer, are legitimate details of elaboration for the costume. They serve also to prove by means of color the frock'’s real relationship to the black jacket. To complete the cos- tume there is a fetching little hat of gray or red duvetyn, banded with the squirrel and from the side drop- ping a ‘black cord and tassel. A gray angora scarf about the neck affords all the warmth one needs during the strenuous exercise, The wool scarfs of gay colors are very popular with polo coats in the morning, when on the avenue may be sean many smart women wearing small hats of duvetyn or ribbon on the tailored order, in a color to match the searf. An orange scarf and hat accompanied a tan polo coat, while a set in geranium red with a brown coat achieved a delight- ful effect. Many black coats and capes are seen in the afternoon at the tea hour in the popular restaur- ants. Both young and old are wear- ing them, The cape is as popular as the coat, and frequently has a huge collar of broadtail to complete it. Broadtail, in fact, for entire coats is much used, but the coats are not long as a rule. The smartest ones are hip length and are completed SKATING COSTUME DESIGNED BY MILDRED LODEWICK. with a hlack frock of some sort, sometimes of velvet, duvetyn or breadcloth. These are frequently banded with fur, like the jacket at the bottom to achieve a more definite costume effect. One young girl's ecstume of black pebbly silk caHed crepe-knit Was simply trimmed with a very narrow band of white rabbit around the skirt edge and down one side from around the neck. The short sleeves were also banded with it and the effect was not too strik- ing. A small white georgette hat trimmed with a black lacquered quill coinpleted her costume. But to return to capes, one of the prettiest I have scen was on a white-hatred society matron at the dinner hour the other day. It was of the softest Bolivia cloth ‘banded at the bottom with broadtail, and collared hugely with the same, while nail-headed beads of black jet studed the entire sur- face of cloth, from where they twinkled most engagingly. Restaurant gowns continue in popularity as the prescribed evening attire, except for very formal affairs. They feature mostly the round neck, medium low, and either no sleeves or very short cap ones, They are of the one-piece variety, assuming the effect of one-piece from shoulder to hem. Many beaded cords are employed as a means of marking the waistline, which is unusually low, Sometimes the bodice is bloused and girdled low with a draping of the dress fabric. Uneven hem lines are fea- tured * on all but very practi- cal frocks, and will no doubt con- tinue into next summer. They lend grace and charm to the the most awkward form when achieved by means of flouting strands of drapery or trailing points of lace. On frocks of an informal character the wtraight lines of the hem can be broken by a long sash-end on one side or long strands of fringe that form slinky tassels dropped from a corded girdle. Gir#les, by the way, are very inter- esting these days, which are quite dif- Glimpses Into the New By Emilie Hoffman. Copyright, 1922, (New York Evening World) F By Press Publishing Co. P itis says we are to wear suits this spring, so, of course, we shall wear them, and many of us are pleased, for we have felt quite passe during the past fow yoars ip the suits we have q@iung to because they are so practical. This new edict of Dame Fashion means a revival of the blouse and in the displays of Southern wear togs, which is really an advance display of spring fash- fons, the blouse is prominent. There are handsome models in georgette, crepe de chine and printed voiles for dressy wear, and in the eports types they are of crepe de chine, heavy satins, wool jersey and heavy silk tricot. Most of the new blouses are tn the plep-over-the-head style and they fit enugly over the hips, the majority having a belt cut in with the waist and either drawn back from the sides or forming a drape at the side front The necks are either square o: round and finished off with a band in contrasting color or with a cordiag of the waist fabric. Sleeves generally are long, but mauy sport blouses have the sleeves ending above the elbow As the new suit coat run from twenty-two to twenty-sia inches in length, the blouse must nevesserily not extend far below the hips. While colored blouses are having a large de- mand, if you want to be right up-to date you will select a blouse in ecrt: or an ivory tint An interesting note in blouses is the new idea of buying a pattern blouse. These come in handsome crepes and silks exquisitely embroidered, and all you have to do is to follow the printed lines and in a9 couple of hours you will produce a beautiful blouse at one- third the cost of the finished gar- ment. They come in prevailing col- ors and the newest modish des'gns and developments, The new suit s'‘cirts do not have the ferent from the time when a belt o! the dress fabric was the natural com- plement of any frock. Richness, gcrgeousness, distinction and charm characterize the modish girdle, which is anything from leather, fitted with novel pockets to be worn with trig daytime frocks, to elegintly hand- woven and beaded affairs which form the centre of attraction on evening gowns of yelvet, brocade or chiffon. Invariably when planning a new frock, the thought will occur as to the girdle, and the quesion “How shall I fmish the belt?’ Well, for vel- vet dresses, beaded cords are smart, formed of strands of beads braided together which tie on one hip with tasselled ends. If for dauytime- weur, metal girdles with semi-precious stones inset, or wooden beads woven into a band, or colored beads woven into elaborate motifs that are strapped together with ribbon are all popular. Fashion articles and draw- ings by Miss Lodewick appear in The Evening World three days each week. York Shops uneven hem as do dressy skirts, and, by the way, they are from eight t: ten inches from the ground. In order to make room for spring stocks winter fabrics ure now being offered at decidedly reduced prices. Among these are embroidered serges A navy blue embroidered in green and dull yellow is $6 a yard and a black serge beaded in vertical stripes of jet beads is $10, while a real bar- gain in black, blue and brown serges prettily embroidered in contrasting colors is $3.69 a yard Among the garments displayed fo: Southern wear are smart guits a contrasting fubrics An especially attractive model has a full pleated skirt in & medium sheecked orchid and white and a »wy7ty jacket in plain « tons, looking chid wit athite but- In glancing over the newest gar- ments it is appurent that softer tones are supplanting the brilliant shades of the past seasons, ‘There are also several revivals of shades popular few years ayo. Anne these wis taria is prominent Here’s the Answer By Mildred Lodewick. Copyright, 1922, (New York Evening World By Press Publishing Co Dear Miss Lodewick—- . | am invited to serve at an ice cream booth at a fair to be held in our church. What sort of a frock do you think would be pretty? Am seventeen years old, have blonde hair which ts bobbed. Am slender, 5 feet 3 inches tall. MARIE H. Any simple white summer frock of net organdy could be worn, though one of chiffon delicately beaded, in pink or yellow or pale green, would be especially pretty. The frock coud be made kimono fashion in one piece, with round neck and short sleeves, the skirt cut in scallops, and waist- line girdled with a sash of the chif- fon that drops below the skirt edge. Either hand embroidery in floss or beads could finish all the edges. Dear Miss Lodewick— Will you kindly give me your advice on the type of hat to wear with a velvet dress at a restau- rant dinner? 1 have brown eyes and hair and a thin face but ex- pressive one | am told. Am twenty-four years old. A lot would depend on the stvle of your dress as, for instance, a tight bodice with full skirt would com- mand a broad brimmed hat prefer ably of black hersehair or tulle or lace, If the dress is rich enough in effect or trimmings a small metal cloth hat with a mass of varied flowers trimming the front would be pretty. It could be overdraped with Diack tulle. Dear Miss Lodewick— 1! am to attend a dance given by a local lodge where informal dress will be worn. 1! should like to have your advice as to just what sort of a dress to get to wear. Also will you advise me if black satin slippers will go well with a black velveteen dress. Am eighteen years old. A little tomato color georgette crepe with round neck and long wide sleeves, or elbow length ones, an’ completed with a black satin. sa would be pretty, Or a simple litt black Canton crepe frock completed with a searab green chiffon or geor gette sash could be worn Dear Misss Lodewick— What would you suggest as a suitable costume to wear to a church wedding which t. kes place at 4in the afternoon? Am forty: five years of age, weigh 137 pounds, 5 feet 4 inches tall. Have gray hair. brown eyes, good color and fair skin. MRS. W.T. S. Either a dressy suit with dressy hat or an afternon gown with matcung . hat should be worn White kid gloves, You would Jook well in a gray gown of satin or velvet. It could have long, wide sleeves of matching chiffon bunded with steel bead em- hroidery Panels of the chiffon banded severa) times with the steel bead embroidery could drop longer than the skirt on cach side, A plain hodice sightly elongated with rount neck finished with o pip.ng of echif- tach a row ¢ ‘ : ae er daa Yin —