The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 14, 1903, Page 10

e e = She Dresses in Black and te as a Foil to the Bright Green of the Trecs and the Bril- liant Red of the Rose Bushes and Fruit Blossoms—Her Chic Hats Her Beautiful Little Jeweled Ornaments—What Is New in the World of Dress for Joman Who Wants to he Gay Colors of the BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. ¢ the merriest month £ W olors bioom free- upon the gowns s fair et it is a fact e taste is turning white. By a strange bit woman discards color &= i the.most popular of erywhere one sees new signs s « ation of e, that it shall be bright re be a rule that a black k er e with a little white 2 but there was also a g dress but somber, as soon ed with black. This own trimmed with v different matter ROW black E = b k and h N getl 0 how € d that to be hic e @ great specialty of . b ess, or magpie . s ca e N 8 mes any means, ’ for gayest and . ety dames. Indeed . e a gre black and white a w e wholly out of ts, but which ie dress de of buttoned fitted to s, which from the of white e to simulate om the bole e knees, being » pie Is Gay Zpie costumes =& f somberness is the ha L4 me as n “ ~N PrSTER M T S Own 2 TRimMMm y WITHED e o i LS wens —SCE white on great occasions. Or, if she not wear all white, she ware all bla one occasion she appeared in a magnificent assemblage in a gown of black crepe de chine, trimmed with black filet lace, with winking ornaments of jet ipon the corsage. Her gown set off the ant coloring of her face and hair, and was pronounced the most elegantly gowned of all the women in that room full of undeniably beautiful women. A great summer belle who attracts a great deal of attention wherever she goes because of her beauty, her social posi- nity of her carriage, wore ly a magpie dress which was made Jored veiling. so pale in tone and the di e almost white, skirt were made separ- as a shirt ately i waist suit. The trimming of this gown consisted entirely of lace flowers and lace leaves scattered over the waist and the skirt. To stripe the waist and skirt with black thcre were some very narrow strips of black lace no wider than an eighth of an inch put on as insertion strips. Trimming the Waist. A beautiful magpie sash of the year is made by tving a sirip of satin ribben around the waist and knotting it at one side The knot must be large and intri- ca as though it were knotted and re- Knotted The ends of the ribbon now hang to the ground. where they are knotted again this time the knot be as iarge as a big apple, and done in the same way. by tying and retying until the end looks as it supporte hugh tassel For evening the ing. for it can be made different ways and its form can de varied magpie the selection of one of s0 many differ- . ateriale. An evening gown of wuite e trimmed with black and white lace e fie from an evening f on, vel ed with blaca the both g« s are in black and vely a dress as you wish s made up with a The very low sage was In side plaited chiffon, ail d with a silvery thread in {ie chiffon which made look 1. e siive Over this there was worn a little black lace boierc tight fitting, opgn in tae front to show the n v and pro 1 with sleeves that enced in big wing apes at the elbow The sk which was all accordeon plait was covered with a biack ace s ch was trimmed with large black lace butteiflies ail jetted and plied to the lace with* outstretched wings But (ae magpie is 1 necesjari.y an TRE SUNDAY CALL. white without éxtravagance in their make-up. description is made of black linen rrow bands of white linen for its These are sel in at the head cf the flounce, at the hips and in the vest and cuffs. Inexpensive Little Gowns. When a black gown is made up very pla with a touch of white in its trimming, there is a certain elegance about it which is undeniable. You can see at a glance that the dress is no ordi- nary one and that'it is designed to show the taste of the wearer, The tallored black and white dresses are magnificent in their simplicity and usually in their price, for the madistes insist upon using the very best of mate- rials and in making up the gown with very fine linings and with the handsomest of finishings, but by substituting cheap B0qds for.expensive materials and making them up really you get almost as good results. In the parasol line, to go with the mag- pie dresscs, there are parasols trimmed with bands of black going around them; and again there are black parasols with bands of white, the two colors being com- bined In so many ways that it is im- possible ta begin to mention them all. In recommending the white ‘laces one does not know either where to begin or where to draw the lIne from Dame Fashion’s standpoint, for the reason that white laces have now departed so far from their original tone. The m st popular of the white laces are so decp in color that one hesitates about calling them white at «ll. There are the cream laces and there iz the very popular shade of lace krown as Paris tint. This is the color of very old lace and is liked by every one, be- cause it is 8o soft and pretty and because it does not show the dust, being alrcady a dust color. White laces, on the contrary, are far from durable used on street gowns. On a gown of black or blue cream laces are 4 mockery, for they soll o soon that they are limiled at best to two or three wearings. But when the lace shade is a Paris tint, or an antique color, or the culor of old lace, or an ecru, tan or oyster, the case is entircly different, for the lace will wear a long time and be capable of a hard brushing from time to time without injury. The Furniture Laces. The furniture hu:'e‘s are used a great deal. The term f to the coa previous to this season, were used on urniturs lace is filet and other laces that window curtains, shades and chair cov erings. Now these same laces are freely ised for dress trimmings, and so great is their vigue that dealers hive been obliged to imp « their old lace curt n stoc manufac of the coarsest ce walsts it i= assert that many a prudent woman has ol¢ curtains and n out of the bes ing it che her wind walsis . One,of the very new st shows « made gown narrow i piain. The alloped, b cut ¢ ing bound with silk or so as o give them a t The return of the about as wide as your s predicted, a trimming who do not v and one can be pardoned it quickly. Another new style is st it very f etty and a cheap way t 1 in the gre bow knot of lace which has taken the place of the smaller bow knots skirt. This one enormous bow k placed upon the front of the skirt a way that it and ends ¢ end along s one needs four or five yards of lace insertion four inches wide The great lace-like bow is made 1 plying the lace to the front of the in bow fashion and spreading out the ioops and the ends in great sprawls, with the ends far extended at each side of the front. No other trimming is needed upon the skirt that is trimmed with this bow knot the front breadth side breadths. For The Deep Lace Collar. A fad of the scason. with the m. ell as with other gowns dr lace collar. This is a very as the lcep affair, so decep as to form a shoulder cape, and it is worn around the necs and and fastened under the chin wi brooch The best of these collars are m 10ulde h a smart of guipure, Point Marquise, antique, Rus- slan and noveliy laces. Th very decp a: catully full, though not full enpugh to be voiuminous or bulky arcund the shoulders. The lace cape may be finished round the same length front and back, with a preity pointed edge, or there may be long stole ends In front six inches wide and reachirg to the belt, or far below it as the style of the cape may be. The taste of the woman of artistic in- stincts comes well to the fore where these ars are concerned, for she decorates them prettily with needle, using embroid- ery stitches. One of the most fashionable trimmings is found in the crocheted ring which is sewed into the lace at frequent intervals. These rings come In af sizes covered with silk, all ready to be set into the lace. A really elegant lace cape can be made by applying lace figures to a cape of very’ cheap lace. Some of these are so exquisitely made as to be worthy a place in the ranks of lace works of art. The foundation of a collar of very mod- ern and quite heavy lace cost something less than %. It was shoulder \deep and finished with points. Litile rings cov- ered with cream silk were appliqued upon it at Intervals and between the mings there were small_lace figures cut appar- ently from an odd bit of lace insertion. These were outlined with heavy white silk to make the figures stand out. A cape that was as delicately pretty as could be imagined had its flowers out- lined with shirred satin ribbon no wider v are 1 are L | 3 1 -~ wrnTE e CLOT W cCoAaT TRIMMED WAIT H ONE \ BRoaD BAND OF A\ BLacw TAFFETA \ \ h h g The woman wt in staid col latest fancy wr ored gown wit and a g lored gowns th with trim- s thus combi purple ar ape is em b hes of p h the embr at 1s made of is cut so ows plainly es are the edges there is ed greem grapes s a toque, turned up a 1, is trimmed with grapes conventional e woman of go in for these rape gown s ty. But it has the home w 1 as does any d the woman of domestic to be able, when she leaves and sitting-room, to look as up-to-date as her sister t that the mer ts are novelties all the ti woman of hitherto ming more and mo med to ht of new thin vally the wearing of the Cherry and Navy Blue. ather color that is gaining in slarity every d ough the mod! redict that its 1 This es is be one new ome, is an recog familiar afresh, and g oth calor of long ago. Everybody remembers 1 i cherry color were summer 1ere r ag as greater vogue than blue gowns are vedy smart with cherry, and hats of tan, and v have their cherry not resembling brightness in t coral sea son all the way from the coral jeweiry to ‘he cqral color of one’s hat, gown und trimmings. Coral red is used a great deal to trim brown a secn on black dresses and there giving it ehic Another popular shade is pista and this, with spfhach, makes most popular green shades of t ning, of the hot Both great advantage of looking cool a nice In a material. And another color that is gainir ground is cigar brown, which is not quit as deep as tobacco brown, and which has a little more red in its depths. This is used in suits in combination with tomato red, or cherry, or coral, and very cheer ful it looks made up for afternoon or for traveling or for calling. This is distinc- tively a combination of color for a tail- ored cloth or silk gown rather than a fluffy summer dress Another combination for a tailor ma gown for those who are looking for some thing tailored is the navy blue, now so mudh worn, with trimmings of Perstan embroidery or Persian canvas or mixed Persian stuff of some kind. no matter what, for it now comes in so many stuffs, Let _the navy blue gown be an etamine, a voile, a canvas, a taffeta or a light weight cheviot or summer serge, and trim it as to revers, cuffs and facings with the Persian goods. So shall you have s pretty tailored suft. < £ it