The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 12, 1903, Page 10

The French Dress Is a Lit- tle More Chic anu Elaborate Because of the Fact That the American Woman Builds Her Traveling Gown for Comfort Rather Than for Style — The and the Mat-rial That Be Worn—How to Make Coat—Traveling Dresses of Mrs. Cornelius Van- ; Mrs. George Law, can Widow. a Traveling BY AUGUSTA <rRESCOTT. ng dress is g Eow re she ® burst f n woman, when she s e s ways and termina getting roadcloth ovelty gox by any wo- medium gray. & an au e color and gown to suit The upper ¥ is a blou ecoming fullness in the fr tty tight fit In the back. The ser beil at the wrist or are cut coming into a tight ssian shape skirt is of pleasant though mot ex- ated snugness. For Street or Travel does the American woman eling dress that it is as use- the street as for traveling. She pping or she can wear it formel calls. It is one of the most ble dreeses in her ‘wardrobe and the woman gets her full wear out of it. Very few women make a dress that is only for travel For, after all, oue travels ry few days in the year unlesc one be 2 woman drummer. To the average woman traveling means half a dozen daye in th n aboard train @nd for this she can wear any nice little tailored dress. Still, & woman must not be unmindful of her appearance when she travels, for #he must remember that on her journeys she is very closely inspected, and that her inspector is usually the revered hecad of the family, who accompanies her away on the summer sojourn, if at no other time in the year. Therefore it behooves her to be careful of her style, that he may not be ashamed of her appearance. The American woman, Wwhen she Las made her neat serge or cloth gown and has fitted it very modishly, will want 0 trim it, and this season she has such a variety of trimmings from which to make a choice. nly w seas Foremost both in the styles and in the season’s novelties comes the braided trimming, which is used in more charming ways than ever before. Brald, wide or narrow, or both kinds, can be used to trim entire suits, and with the very best results. Fancy designs in soutache arounu .ne foot of the gown, and pret'y little scroll effects are used to vary the monotony of the plain rows of braid. Then there come bralds of a very high luster, and also of rather a high price, that can be applied to the skirts so as to anish heel is simi‘ar to the Cu vou The €f ban. and unless you are an exp can hardly tell this heel from the heel, which is, however. a little aggerated. Then there is the heel, always nice, and the heel which is d the cdlonial he colonial dame will walk the s this vear In colonial slippers, wt not slippers at all, only so calle ere wide and square toed and rat ing on the foot, making it look a bit assertive. The Prettiest Shoes. But the colonial is helped ou very beautiful gun metal buc .the instep and by the altogeth tongue which sets up so smart the ankle THey are promising these colonials in colors, tan, deep red, brown, russet and brilliant patent leathers. But one scarce Iy expects them to be popularized excep hd the. patents and the reg- Women, except upon car red shoes traveling is ear, tho gaze upon. It is a an who would like pature made nd for that 1 as a heel exac two incbes high. And this heel is siid by the es upon natty against g i the tans vlar black leather the board walk, will not A ghoe that is made alas, very uncomfortable t {mmense y pretty t the forward and it is a curved heel on the French order. This shoe is a tie, with the bow upen the instep. The shoe is laced with a very parrow ribbon, which is tied e nste Qver the ribbon there is pir plash- fng black bow with ends and go geous svreading | 1 the middle _this beautiful vow therc is slipped a buckle. The bew i3 very attractive and gives ”,\ B ERENCH WoMAN TRAVELS IN THIS LcowN make a trimming that will greatly re- semble passementerie. Braided = fastenings are used upor blouses, and the whole family of braids and crocheted trimmings can be used freely for the traveling dress. And in the crocheted trimmings one must “include the crocheted drop, the ball and the ball button and all the lttle dangling things which belong partly to the braid family and partly to the chenille and veivet hosts. The American woman tops oft with a real traveling hat, and for this she se- lects a self-trimmed hat of straw, one of the kind known as a ready-to-wear hat. As a trimming she puts a silken twist around it to match her gown. Or she sticks a quill or two in it, taking care (> follow the flat style of this season’s quill trimming: The ready-to-wear straws, partly straw and partly some other material, perhaps with a little maline woven in, or a few Jayers of chiffon or of cloth, make the best traveling hats, for the reason that ;hcy do not get out of sorts aj pther hats 0. The trimmed hat elther loses its trim- mings, which somehow work loose and look awry, or it loses its color and its crispiness. Its general tone becomes im- ipaired and there is no chic in it after one day's tossing about on train or boat. There is an American woman, and a very matty one at that, who makes it a point to travel in ostrich feathers. Her hat has a waving plume, and her neck is encircled with a feather boa. “I find it so dressy at the journey's end,” says _she, “and 86" comfortable to slip on when a breeze is blowing or wnhen one alights for a moment at a station.”” Traveling in Ostrich Feathers. Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt is another woman who always travels in ostrich feathers, and one of her latest traveling dresses is worn with a wide eather collar which lies almost like a cape around her { shoulders. The front has long stole ends that come almost to the very ground. Her muff is a flat muff, with a feather front, a silk back and a chiffon lining, just the thing for cold hands all summer, for it is not a heating affair, while it is unquestionably becoming and pretty. For traveling, the American woman is coming back to the glazed kid gloves. She finds suede just a little bit extravagant, for suede soils easily, wears out q and looks shabby long before the newne: should be worn off. . & So, for the time being, the sensible American woman foregoes the delight of the luxurious and clinging suede glove, end takes to the glazed kid. She selects light weight shoes and now selects the the tle an appearance of much neatness, one of the mew styles which has heavy Deautiful high square heels which are so a quality which it did not lack even before stitching down the back and very large becoming to the foot and so easy upon the bow was added. white buttons. Maybe the seams, are the ankle. This kind of heel never trips There is another so-called traveling tie stitched on the outside in what is known one, does not hurt the spine and is very Which is an English creation. It is tan, as “mannish” gloves. fashionable. Could more be asked of an: 3 y with a sensible lacing and t The American woman travels In very kind of shoes? wale: This t1s 1y furnisbed: with & nr:‘l;: conventional A OEER How to Use Braids. placad “latter makes the foot look +ing to lace herself too tight for her willing to travel waist and bust like would resign her | a short skirt, and sweeping train anc then she would keel, and it comes either In Cuban heel or curved French heel. Of course, the maller, but is ities. prevailed rely they destructive to walking procl The openwork stockings whic last season will be revived. S have aiready been revived, for one sees them every day upon the street, even i chilly weather. They are to be worn ver openwork and decidedly on the slipstitch order. Many cf them, even for street wear, will have a tiny colored figure embrold- ered In them, while others will be em broldered high on the calf, where the eve of the thoughtless passer-by is mot sup- pesed to penetrate. t the real stockings of the coming » will be worn at home. And. here, eed, will be a treat for the stranger thin our gates Home stockings, or house stock wiil be embellished with shirred ribt pattern h artificial flow: t and appliqued on, with beau: tiful bits of silk put on in big polka dots with many marvelously beautiful d of handwork, which show all the th lavished upon any other art of dress. The French Woman’s Gown. But it is the French woman who will travel in fine attire. Yet when you come to examine her gown It is as much her style and the way she wears the creatlc n the r be American style, ) L on ¢ any loyal nattjest French the ch 1 for a alty. But she while ze Law, the American woman t S athor Navini who is now in tr dazzled Paris as a rich American widow for a number wears a F creation that The mater olor A plé ss shave p to the Tetnee princ ss par with rimmed ownN TR, -4 wiITH B8RAID narrow bands of gray silk put on In wide curves. The bands exactly match tne serge so that the gown is what may be called all-of-a-color. The jacket is a little Eton, cut rather short and very round. The front hooks invisibly and has one of those beautifully ‘becoming curves over the bust. It, too, is Trtmmed with stitched bands of gray sfix. The sleeves are coat sleeves, which means that they are quite tight, except for a bell around the hand. Of course, the skirt is very long as befits any well or- ganized French gown. The Black Gown of Paris. They may talk about French walkir skirts and French pedestrian skirts. B_ after all, there is no such thing. The French woman po ely will not wear a short skirt, and her “pedestrian’ skirt is one that must be held up all the wa around. It is like her other skirts, s very long that ome could mnot, for her life, walk in it without holding it up with one hand at least and, perhaps, W ¥ Then there is the black gown of Paris oh, what a dress it is! What s it 18! Fall to your knees, all yo worship black, and declare it queen of hosts and gowns! One of the most popular of models shows a black traveling gown made of very thin black face cloth. It is so that it is called panne cloth, and eavy eno 14 its own the weight of a very fire r a heavy veiling. I looks A RuISIAN B ousE Surr Fore TRAVELING The jacket is witk awa the In Blac h A w hina stik study slack and w Such is a gown you know, shakes W OWn better than vou exg This gown, which must made over a wi trimmed with white sifk br: When traveling the woman will wear a navy coat made brilliantin sleeves. The coat is that it car to journey er A white traveling suit is nice If' one Journeys part of the way by 1t one is to stop off at a hotel to meet peo- ple, or if one i be social du if the gown dosing it with w out next day? Oh, it is a problem, this matter of util farianism, and it is the clever woman who solves it without spending toe much before she has mastered it