The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 5, 1903, Page 15

THE SUNDAY CALT. 13 —_— | the Lovely Dresses | Be Worn Up Fifth aster Day by the x, Who Will Be Glad 0 Into the Warmth ter Sunshine—What 11 Be Worn and How Gown Will Be Put The E er Jacket and Many Peculiarities, New the Season—The Dresses Majesty Queen a Will Wear the | Season. | up Fifth avenue brilliancy any n of this kind able New York- shine iv will remembes, it was od form to parsde oz t he many revivals he revival of the e most marked. ree, the cor- e walk afterward is also E 4 with the spirit of e - » than that best hat and hine of the su this year and for this r it is not pleasant wed we o h gown on Easter 5 wear it to church at w t is for calling, for* . at a B v the London sea- » P who will buy a nice c ere are the prettiest of . ' s no matter what eme must be adapted to - wear the gown. Ur d ended for the slender - she be sveite she will . ' enough to wear a dress o woman who weighs 180. o ARISIAN <oDTUME For WHRLKING om For cHURCH- /4 - TULLE, AL L /) EMBROIDERED J) N /4 OFPRNGLED. 1 It you want something neat in a cjoth gown take a little thing in panne cloth or something in a soft satiny finish, even though it be only a cashmere, and make it in the correct cut. This must be one that suits your style. Mrs, Arthur Paget, who ean wear “try- ing" styles, owing to her pretty figure, wore a waist and a skirt all a mass of wide tucks, fully one inch each. And SHURCH GOWN ALi AN APMERICAN N BLARCK.. == the waist, not up the skirt In the the tucks went around and down, and around same manner. The waist was trimmed with the tucks lald all around, front and,back, and the skirt had the tucks laid all around, reach- ing right down to the knees, where there came the shaped flounce.» They have a way of putting this flounce on now that it does not look like a flounce. This is frequently done by set- ting a box-plait underneath, and again by employing the bias ruffle, used as the old fans were nged. And there is some- thing newer still, which consists of knife plaitings of satin laid in under the flounce, just as though the plaitings were fans. and with these plaits to assist in the full- ness the flounce looks very nice indeed. The Easter Skirt. Again they shape the skirt so that it makes its own fullness, and this is to be highly recommended from a standpoint of style. There is something about the flar- ing flounce which makes the feet look small, and everybody knows how much this is desired by fair women. The shaped flounce, coming out in a cas- ground, is more popular than ever this spring, and, say what you will about its disappearance, you will see the most fashionable women gowned in skirts that show this peculiarity. There is a great tendency this year to show strong contrasts and to show thems in startling ways. At a fashionable dinner the other even- ing the hostess was gowned In black and her sleeves were elbow length, finished with a knife plaiting of chiffon. Around the top of the sleeve was a band of white net lace, beautifully darned, and around the elbow there was another band of the vivid white lace to make an elbow cuff.” This placing of white against black s almost lurid sometimes, for if the black be dull in a rich deep peau de soie and if the lace be a dead cold white the con- trast is so strong as to be offensive to any but the eye that is accustomed te it. cade on the Btreet dresses-are often made of black and white, black cloth with white lace, or black taffeta with white silk and white lace, or black panne with trimmings of white chiffon, lace and taffeta. But in trimming black with white it is well to be careful, for one does not al- ways get pleasing effects and a gown that any kind. Tt gives fust touch of black. They say, you know, that the white street gown is going out and that the very pale gray is coming in to take Its place. And an advice from London de- clares that for the London season Queen Alexandra will have a street dress of ar- butus pink cloth, another of ivory yel- low and one of nickel gray. It may be true that her Majesty goes In for light pink cloth street dresses, but the American woman who goes afoot will look twice at the pink cloth before she buys it for the_ street. With the white it is different, and if a woman be rather petite and not as old as the hills it will become her. Let her make it up either a princess plain and buttoned all the way down the back as & shirt waist suit, a round shirt walst and & neat skirt. The white princess is perfectly beauti- ful, but it must be trimmed, for it is too piain and bride-llke to be worn in its Leautiful plainness. It must be embrol- dered or trimmed with lace; or, better still, It may be covered with a gown of plece lace, all made up and slipped on over the white cloth. Few but can afford the white or the fvory nuns’ veiling dress, d one can, for a walst, buy a white China silk, made up with & little Bruges or Russian or filet lace. For a skirt one can make a beau- tiful dress skirt, precisely like any black skirt one may happen to possess; and one can tuck the skirt in long tucks all in groups of three right down to the hem. For a white coat to match the Easter sult thers Is nothing that compares with the Easter coat. And do you know what an. Easter coat is? One of' the newest models shows a white shoulder cape of white cloth, trim- med with crocheted dross. The cape has no collar, but lies flat on the shoulders with the crocheted drops fringes around the shoulders. are about four Inches wide.and are cut n long stoles. The Easter Coat. This, which was once called a shoulder cape, Is now called an Easter coat +But there is another Easter coat, and this can be made of any colored cloth. It is cut as an eton, rather short, with points in the front. It is hooked invisibiy all the way down the front, and the shape is such as to make a woman very broad breasted It I1s worn over any budice or over any shirt waist One of the nattiest of Easter effects will be seen in the princess gow ns down the back. Over thi: the required The Eton relieves e princess and makes it look a little more like a street garment But it is the silk Easter s that catches the eye and ranks among the novelties. Brown silk, of the golden h is revived, and it Is made Into neat I taffeta suits, with a v little blue to give it character. Black taffeta make charmingly, and black satin is in aga both In the plain and in the brocades Olive green is also k and the peac blue which they wore before the Span war. These suits are, for the most part made up in tucked fashion, and, i the tuck here is a chance for varlety, A FRENCH <HURCH LOWN. fs made up in black with dashes of white lacks Interest somehow, and never Is it very becoming With the white street suit it is differ- ent. Here all in cashmere or all in veil- ir.g, one can make up one's own gown and on the bust one can place a black chou or a black rose or a black ornament of One of the new tucked silk suits, mads in an olive green. is built in skirt and coat fashion. The coaut fs a little Russian blouse, and its trimmings consist of a turn-over collar of black and.red striped silk and cuffs of the same. There are a few tucks above and below the balt ltne of the blouse. The skirt has its tucks at the head of the flounce For the woman who is making a taffeta silk thers pattern to fol- is one ever fashionabl low. Trim the treat the flounce t ' ucking the head. Lay the tucks close together and head them with a band of satin rib- bon. Later the tucks can be released, with the result of having a flounce that will flare with all the enthusiasm pue- sible. When you have made your gown be sure you wear it right, for, really, thers s to be a great deal this season In the way you wear your gown. How to Wear Your Gown. Take the street dress of camel's haly canvas and make It up {n Victorine style, with low shoulders, long front effect and trim it with elaborate strapping. Lat there be long tails to the coat and there be a sweep skirt, all abundaatly trimmed with the bands of silk put om in pped fashion. ake this gown, which can bs & very inexpensive though pretty one, and put it upon And then take the same gown and put it upon another wo- man he two women will look so totally un- like that you wiil declare that the gown has been changed by som cess. The first one w erect, w the chest, the front, the rece abdomen d elbows and the graceful front & The other one will stand upon her heels, with the chest thrown in, the abdomen thrown out and the eibows glued to the sides. On this woman the gown is spotled. She positively cannot wear the Victorine and she should confine herself plain and wholly con- skirt. women say that with each sea- son this difference becomes more and more noticeabls, for the Gibsonian shoul- ders are growing upon the community carry and whers one woman looks well in them m look very distressing. It Is abso itely essential that & woman wear them right. The low Victorine shoulder, which was the Gibsonlan shoulder fifty years ago, is seen mors and morse, and the slesves are uilt so that ook as though thers but only 1 or tiny capes er the sh The Shoulder Cape. The pointed stole cape, now besoming pU tes this low oulder. from the Easter coat earn to wear it if you 4 up to date. To ess polnted stole capes tle that y re very rtha or houlders, ton, thin o to = point at the matter of re comes we = 1t as it should be worn 3 . can look well In a s e shoulder capes s st practice wea g - appare she gets ghly that she can are practicing In s-glass and that it e which to view the one glass another in 4 be beheld nd a ¢ & ring £. graceful one. Tetven ew and f the season ia the silk s w 1 can afford to neg P . line. The silk shirt waist sult can be made of taffeta, o t + silk, or of any summer-like ard i a taffeta sult is s a wide varisty vy blue, tan, brown, ne If taffeta be che very smart,, th of color. Vielet, na Sreen and mauve are all very nice for skirt walst suit and all very ladyilke,