The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 5, 1902, Page 10

THE £ UNDAY CALL. watter be? r matier be? HAT is the cry of the woman of Beptember as she takes ouc her last year's fall gown and looks at it. es not have to study it she discovers what the The sieeves are wrong—all wrong. And the worst of it is that they cannot be fixed. The old sleeves must be taken out and to the rag bag and new ones put T the only way you cun Te- gown. asier than remaking it it better than putiing and a new coilar? The sleeve material need not exactiy metch the waist, for § n be a lace or a_chif- fon or & met. O: it can be silk, if the gown be silk, combinei with something else that goes well wiiki the gown. The sleeves of the new gown are of the color of the gowns, but th not nec- essarily of the same stuff, and all sieeves have two materials In them. This makes it simple for the home dressmaker who is going to make an old gown look like a newly imported French creation The hint whbich was given early in the summer that Ly fall there would be a re- turn to the balioon shoulder has not been realized. Shoulders are trimmed and very much trimmed, but the trimmings are put on fiat end in a way that has been called the cap trimming. Little lace shoulder caps of heavy lace are placed upon the shoulders of satin dresses and on cloth dresses. These caps are fitted and extend down the arm a little, but there is noth- ing of the ruffie about them. The Sleeve of a Princess. The Princess Margaret of Connaught, who is the dressiest of the royal girls, wears & pongee colored satin dress, not at all expensive, but very lively. It is;a din- ner gown and the skirt describes the clinging ‘Greci cut, with straight front breaith and straight side breadths. But the back is full and falis away in a wide sweep. There is a hip yoke of lace and there are decye (rlmmlfn’kl of lace put on ‘at the shoulder in cap fashion- with the s tion of-a fullness. i sl e sléeves are very tight with an outer sleeve of chiffon, which is fastened around the upper arm with a band of lace. Again at the ‘wrist it is fastened with another band of lace. Between the wrist and the elbow and above it there is an immensely full bag of the chiffon, laid in side plaits &nd showing a great fullness which is brought Intg somerh!ng‘nke a neat ar- rangement by the close little plaitin; the top and at the wrist. o s Sleeves can best bé descrihgd as won- derful. Whatever eccentricities and ya- garles they may have taken on the past few years have all been collected and ex- pressed in the new sleeves of fall. The statement that no sleeve can be out of style, providing it bag somewhere is not so far out of the way. Yet there is a place for the sleeve to bag and a place for it o be tight and the woman who is making her new sleeves would better study the distinction and learn the differ- ence. A lunhcheon sleeve worn by the Duchess of Mariborough is lovely. Its color was plécés were joined with catstiching, very ~The waist that is worn with this is shell narrow, and In black silk. pink taffeca, wide Irish lace cuffs Cloth’ of silver and cloth of gold were and a deep Iri put together in strips, and button hole All sleeves, stitched, while narrow lace, very delicate, was laid over the whole. Lace is so decided in tone that one for- gets to look at its reality. The term ‘“real lace” seems to have gone out and one lcoks not for the “real” lace, as once un- derstood, but for lace that is artistic and adapted to the needs of the garment on which it is to be worn. There are more and more of these laces appearing and you can get something for every purpose vhich you may desire to put lace. hile it'is a season of change it is also one of thankfulness, for there is a pretti- ness about the new sleeves which dresses Up the walst and secures a certain style. Women who have always been extremely p.ain in figure are now looking dressy, ai- most picturesque, and it is all due to the new sleeves. Rules in Making Sleeves. In the vernacular of the dressmaker each sleeve has a name, but to the ama- teur the sleeves are fancy ones, each dif- fering from the other in some fashion. And here are the rules for the amateur to go by, or what may be called the guid- ing points for the making of the new sleeves. All sleeves are in two materials at least, *pense i laundry bills it is, ne that you do not beg the trouble. The making of the little lace ¢ quite as much an indudtry as th of the lace coila ble piece of fa so pretty ney and it 18 now making ey originality as These cuffs w with a point and on top of eta there were ros — ing is employed more and more e decoration of the fall gowns it is very conspicuous. Zibeline dresses, rough and looking and many are in three or four. much like camel’s hair, are trimmed h The outer or upper material is the Stitched bands and between the rows of heavier one, while the lower or under ma- jL Clays there is a trimming of catstitch- ing. Often the bands are catstitched to the gowns. Sleeves are particularly trimmed In this way and cuffs are catstitched or cross stitched and shoulder capes are trimmed in the same way. terial is of lighter grade. Lace, gimp, silk insertion, Persian em- broidery, Oriental passementerie and silks in brilliant metallic hues are used for tha trimmings and, instead of being put on in conventional ways, are ar: * Gidedly novel methods, ' ls°d in de Lady de Grey, who is the Mrs. Stuyve- A sieeve which is too long to be a di- Sant Fish of England, wears a black satin coat which was admired by Queen Alex- andra. This coat {3 called the Marle S art, aithough why it should have recetv this name no one knows. It is cut tight fitting and short like an Eton and the front has no lapels, but is cut away at the throat to show a very wide vest. The distinguishing feature of this coat is its applique. Holes are cut in it hers and there In frregular fas! and under these holes are set pieces o and over the white taffe are appliqued lace flowers. rectoire_is made of silver silk covered with a braided design. This sleeve is not tight enough to hug the arm, but is cut in coat sleeeve fashion, rather large, and below the elbow it is turned back and the cuff is braided to match the upper sleeve. The cuff is trimmed with stitched bands of silk. There is an under sleeve of silver colored taffeta. which is finished with a lace cuff, which is lined with sjlver satin. The rest of the walst may be interest- ing; it is in silver silk, all fancifully bralded, and is cut down to a point in the front, while the back is chopped off. Tt suggests a_directoire coat just a little, for its collar_ is a directoire collar and there is a full’lace vest. ¢ The Vivian Sartoris Sleeve. There is a street sleeve which is very popular just now. It is part of an Eton coat and the Eton is cut off so that it is quite short enough to reveal the waist underneath. This coat is in the trousseau of Mrs. Scovel, who was Miss Vivian Sar- toris. It is brown satin cloth and the back is laid in full box plaits and the front is cut in the same manner. The back extends only a little below the shoulder b.aaes, giving a eertain smart look to the coat. The front is of the same length, just over the bust. and the whole coat is lined with shell pink taf- feta. Mrs. Scovel's sleeves are very large and there 1s a ‘box plait on top of the shoul- der. At the elbow the sleeve flares and Is very large around so that it makes an Im~ P AR e~ g Sk The coat is very much cut up and taffeta {s set un- der all the holes. The ‘description is od- fous, but you will get the idea The wrist puffs which are worn with this coat—which should be called the Lady de Grey coat—for it is so known to the dressmakers of Paris, are very full and are made of white chiffon. Over th chiffon there are looped bands of wh lace Insertion; the whole flnally comes into a cuff of black satin trimmed w brilllant green embroidery and a brilliant green belt s worn witn this. The Sleeve That Widens. An immense puff like this would never in the world fit into the sleeve of any winter coat that was ever invented and so there is a sleeve which is espectaily u}\‘z':da for wearing over such & walst as this. The sleeve which is a coat slesve is small at the shoulder, but widens like & cornucopia; at the hand it is immense. There is a deliciously old fashioned look to this sleeve, for it Is lined and padded and the very latest touch of daintiness \ shows It filled with sachet powder, so that as my lady waves her hand at you, you get the delicate odor of her favori scent. For afternoon the knife plaited sleevs 1s very good. This sleeve is laid in coun less plaits at the shoulder and the sam plaiting is preserved at the wrist. Be- tween the shoulder and the wrist thers is, of course, a great shapeless puff which somehow takes a certain grace of its own The pointed lace cuff with a sharp point which comes to the knuckles will be very much in evidence. It is sometimes two fingers wide and the point reaches quits to the finger tips. The cuff is tight around the wrist, its long point coming down to the fingers If you have a pair of lace cuffs you can give them a touch of great elegance by embroidering th ssian fast work regardless of the pat embroidery and design. Be st haye a tree or two in the pattern and a wolf, for the wolf embroidery Is to be very smart this year. Russian Embroideries. There is every indication that the na- ture of embroidery will change, for it has too long borne a certain conventional pat- tern. In fact, the rose and the rose leaf, the daisy’ and pansy and the dear little designs have begun to cloy a little upon the jaded senses and one longs for some- thing new in the world of art embroidery, and this will be satisfled in the animal designs. “You will see a wolf with a pack »f hounds in pursuit. A horse will fol- ow, all racing through the woods, and this will be used for the front of a tunic, or, if it i1s done very sm: it will deco- rate the bust of the gown. There is a sleeve which is very new in- deed and it Is to be worn upon house gowns. It i3 two yards wide at the wrist and as small as can be made at the sh der. The widening of the sleeve is sarily abrupt to get this immense fullness at the wrist. The sleeve is bordered with white lace which falls over the hand.: Nothing pret- tier for a breakfast gown could be im- agined than this and it will be a feature of the French house dresses. The making of the automobile coat, se that4t can be worn over the new sleeves of winter, calls for a distinct art of the dressmaker. Three new siceves have come in; one is & coat sleeve which is of course wider at the wrist than at the top aud which has a big velvet cuft, The cuff sets out like a Robesplerre cuf? and is very heavy, This auto is three- quarter length and is made of winter melton. It is in a shade of automobile red, but could be made in yellow green with black stitchings and bands. Another coat, also an auto, which is built for wearing over fancy shirt walsts, bas the full sleeve, but it Is very wide at the hand and is built without a cuff. It is trimmed with a stitched band. The coat is an automobile green; which is al- most & pea green, and the sleeves are lined with black satin. New Auto Colors. There is a new blue In town and it is called automobile blue. It is a little paler than a cadet blue and it is in three-quar- ter length with a box plait in the front and one in the back. he sleeves ares something like leg of mutton sleeves, for they are tight at the top and they are b}:)ughténlm a full Ruft right below the eltow. Below this there i ng i gTvex s a long tight ‘Lhe collars of the new auto coat are very iuteresting. There is a deep square sallor collar, slightly shaped In the fr and the back is bordered with a stitch band of cloth. There is anoth. s in the back “ack and itz material taffeta. It ibilities for the woman of The sleeve was laid in knife p'aits at the shoulder and the plaits were con- tinued to the very elbow, where thay were suddenly released. This left a very wide flowing sleeve, which hung fuil around the iower arm, below the elbow. The Marlborough Sleeve. If you wili take a piece of goods and knife plait it from tne shoulder nearly to the elbow and will reiease the plaits gradually just above the e.bow, end if yeu will let the sleeve hang full from the wrist, you will get the idea. The sleeves of the Duch were lined with turquofte blue satin. The outside was trmmed around the botiom of tne siceve with a narrow band of blue and white passementerie. Another_sieeve, somewhat similar, was worn by Miss Cynthia Burke-Roche, the debutante, at a luncheon. The sleeve, which was a tolacco brown taffeta, was tucked downward from the shoulder, with the tucks standing out. Below the elbow it was very full and the outside was trimmed with embroidery in green leaves, while the inside was lined with white taffeta embroidered in the same fashion. Sleeves are not altogether limp. There js a certain stiffness of texture about them which keeps them in form, thus @ tuating their size. To get this ef- sleeves are made of heavy materials. or if they be of the lighter ones they are lined. Flowing sleeves are for the most part Miued and in the decoration of the Hnlng therfi is another chance for pretty han work. The dirécteire sleeve will be seen u; some of the new cloth dresses and is al ways neat and pretty. In the coats it is, better than in the house sleeves. A very* smart directoire sleeve was made in black silk, flowered with tiny roses, which were put ‘on in prim little wreaths. The sleeves, which were only elbow length, were skin tight and were finished with a wide turn- back cuff of green satim setting out from the arm. Under this coat was worn a green silk shirt waist with baggy lower gleeves. These when pulled out from un- der the coat sleeve made just the right fall at the wrist. The New Trimmings. The. new slegves are to be decorated with all the new trimmings. There come stitched bands of zibeline for the making of cuffs. There are vegetable silk bralds, or and brilliant in their metallic qualities. There are gimps and very pretty silk and metal passementerles. The new gimps and beaded trimmin of all sorts are remarkable for their bril- ‘Mancy. They show bright rose and gay green and the most beautiful . biues in for cuffs and for the heading of puffs. They are done by hand and show a bright coloring and not a little artistic taste. THese can be stamped and embroldered, or the home decorator can get up her own design, copying some well known horderln{, or following in the foof of sapphire and turquoise. The Oriental and Bome of those who have been in the busi- Persian gimps are remarkable in this ness of designing. Cany b obiained for " the - decoration of Jaral degmer o resembled tnme o on small degree the crazy quilts of a few ng sieeves and yokes and for walst decora- years since. Bits of Persian embroldery, lace insertion are set 1n (e et orhite tions gener: 1‘{. none longer than a silver quarter, were under the insertion there are bits of tur- The embroidered bands are good used pieced to;enwr in irregular shape and the quoise satin. THE LOOY D2 GREy SLEEVE ¥ square. The front is cut in sharp noteh: 8o that there are three sharp ppolnu :‘l each side of the front and a sharp polng on each shoulder.