The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 12, 1900, Page 17

THE SUNDAY CALL. 17 Dainty Fans of Famous Quezens ! % Jhe Coqueite’s Deadliest Jeapon s cer ges. In amous beat to more at th hich the fan first was of the world n, among all r wrist which movement. This when we re- e the heav- and bril- oftentifes with While it was the write a verse or n X e n Spain the same was fan sticks. n | always has been the Lome of the fan, by far the greatest mumber of fans have been manufactured AL Paris, where S 3 fratie they may « 10,000, s to tings on mw rical in the ted Watteau b was used by of French manu- medallions n of price- ir ver mnde It w usted | ks had he gold c nd pearls, whiie on the rest and arms of an Aus- Marie An fan as the The paint- rth a fabulous sum, and were painted by Le Flamand, representing episodes in the life of Alex- ander the Great. This fan was presented to Marle Antc tte by the city of Dieppe on the occasion of the birth of the dau- 5. The justly célebrated fan of adcur was one of the most won- and certainly one of the most costly—ever made. It i of Italian origin. ars were consumed In whole cost being about zach tion, in addition to the s embroidery, was decorated with asterpiece of miniature painting. 2 time of Queen Elizabeth's the dress of n m the able lady en ve been com- | the addition of - has it that her sister— ag ccnsort of Philip of it to this country, he | use from the Spanish v rate, it ap- who is paint- ather fan in her por- while in the inven- ts mention is | t this period | » known in two forms—the cire and the small folding fan, B nvented in Japan. It had a r of blades, sometimes only s a8 many as eighteen, but teenth century these in- ty-six or twenty-eight. the fan had no mounts, bu made up of the stick, which was elaberately carved, painted or because simply ecorated with finely cut leather work in of flowers. A very Interesting imen of this period was exhibited In silection of Mme, Duchatel in South ton in 1570. It was a fan given to Grignan by her mother, Mme. de ique, who describes it in one of her etters as of the style known as Vernis Martin, the subjects being a “Promenade’ d the “Toilette of Venus.” These Ver- tin fans are the most precious of e sh ISS ZELMA RAWLSTON s a M very gentlemany little lady. And by the crease of her trousers, the cut of her coat, by the part of her halr and the tilt of her cane she s thoroughly up to date. As dapper a youth as ever flirted a thumb ring. Lightning change artist, male fmper- eonator, is Miss Rawlston's title In full. Which is nothing new under the vaude- ville sun. But Miss Rawlston is the ‘“real thing,” and therefore her popularity and plump salary. Other “lightning change” PHQTQOS BY ALLORY artists have whisked pheum at a brisk pac into a breath. acrors other while Miss on costume aught make for your she doesn’t even take the Miss Rawlston strolls to the footlights in a debonnair way, faultless to the last detail in her swell black suit. Yet only five minutes hefore she sat chatting in her dres: room playing “mine hostess™ to a Sunday Call reporter. Miss Rawlston looked v chic in her smart golf suit, her piquant face losing no attraction from the closely cropped halr, brushed as slick and water will do the act. as “military” eriod. and to-day a fine specimen of i command from £50 t0£100. Age of the Sarh. st the beginning ot the pres- the general belief in all Chris- tries was that not only the earth but the whole cosmos began to six thousand to seven thou- £0; furthermore, that all was without natural process, alned substantially un- ever since. This is the old doc- { the supernatural origin and sub- Al permanency of the earth and Its cs. Among intelligent and espe- scientific men this doctrine, even In teenth century, began to be ques- . although not publicly; for In 1751 1 was compelled by the Sorbonne to retract certain views concerning the age earth, published in his “Natural 749. Remnants of the old be- lief lingered even into the early part of the present century, and may even yet be found hidi ¥ in some of the remote of civilized countries. But with the birth of geology, and especially through the work of Hutton in Scotland, Cuvier in France and William Smith in England, the much greater—the incon- ceivably great—antiquity of the earth and the origin of its present forms, by gradual changes which are still golng on, was gen- erally acknowledged. Indeed, as already sald, this is the fundamental idea of geol- ogy, without which it could not exist as a_science.—Professor Joseph Le Conte of the University of California, in Appletons’. ZELMA RAWLSTY “IVST LIKE \A MAN" the Or= tumbling out ofi you Rawlston them appear slow in comparison, allotted cker than you can say ‘Jack Robin- When & woman's looks will stand the thock of a shorn head “you may paint it on her tombstone, you may carve it on her card, that her beauty can never be marred.” (With apologies to Kipling.) There was a hurried rap on the door, a whispered ‘“You next,” and Miss Rawl- ston bounded out of her chair, rushed into her man's suit and in five minutes by the watch stood in the wings ready to go on. “Don’t call that quick,” she Jaughed, “but watch me really do the change.” It was no slight favor to be allowed to 1IN FROM THE FIROT SONT / TOUR SECTONDS FOR watch Miss Rawliston do the lightning glide from one swell suit to another. Among the rank and file of lightning ¢hange artists it would be a boon highly prized to watch this prince of the craft. But there are secrets in every trade and Miss Rawlston jealously guards her meth- ods from the fraternity and proudly keeps her prestige as the quickest of them all. “T've worked too hard,” says Miss Rawlston, “getting it down to a fine point to be willing to share the secrets of my success. It took long, hard study to get my present speed. Just where to ONDS LATER TAKED TWENTY= THIS CHANGE-TOM - | herent place each garment, just how and in what order to put them on, needed no smallF amount of experimenting. “Four years ago, when I went into vau- deville after three years’ experience on the legitimate, I made my hit by mascu- line impersonations, changing from female to male, and back again. I began to no- tice that they liked me best as a man, and I dropped the other entirely. “It’s one thing to do the change in wo- man’s costume, for a number of the gar- ments can be worn at the same time with- out showing. It's simply taking off lay- ers and adding a trifle here and there. But with men’s clothes it's different. I must look just the correct thing, and wearing duplicates spoils the fit and ruins the swell effect. “The three changes I make are from head to foot. The tailor and I had to put our heads together very frequently to de- sign clothes most adaptable to the pur- pose, yet outwardly like an ordinary suit. My clothes cost many sleepless nights; each new sult was an improvement on its predecessor, until now I think I have them down to perfection.” It was only after Miss Rawlston had been promised her method of placing her clothes and the ingenlous tricks in their cut would not be divulged that she con- sented to give the peep behind the scenes. The last note of her first song still hung in alr, when she had thrown off hat and e Quickest Lightning Change on MRecord /== coat and her mald was handing her—but there! I have almost told. Never mind the detalls. It was interesting enough as a whole. It's positively exciting to watch her. Not a finger falters: not a motion is wasted. It Is neat and secure, every frae- tion of a second put to telling use. More precise than military drill, quick as thought, and presto change! She says “ready,” and is on the ge. Twenty-seven seconds for the first change and twenty-eight seconds for the cond. Imagine it, ye victims of the un- ruly collar button—ye toilers of trouble- some tles. Twenty-seven seconds for a complete change! Thank your stars, sirs, you're not equal to it. It would mean just so much longer to wait for madame. There is just one word that expresses Miss Rawiston's change. She peels her clothes as easily and deftly as one would peel a banana. “Peel” is the only way to express it. Miss Rawlston confesses that the change makes her as nervous as a witch. “I can let my heart go pit-a-pai she says, “but I must control my hand.” The ledst fumbling would spoll the whole thing, for when one part goes wrong the m is lost, and everything goes at sixes and sevens. If it takes nine tallors to make s man, what does it take to make a manly !ldy‘.’ It takes a woman's wit and patience. Jiarving findoos foard éolci HE present struggle in South Africa has done much to distract attention from the fearful ravages of the In- dian famine. There is, howev point in connection with this periodic scourge which Britishers would do well to bear in mind, says a prominent mem- ber of the Indian Civil Service in Pear- son’s Weekly. To inspire a spiritless race like this with the desire to help itself is not the least among the multitudinous trials of the famine relief officer. But there is an- other and still more trying test of that much abused officer’s patience. I refer, of course, to the national habit of hoard- ing, which will fully account for quite one-half of the incredible misery to which these poor wretches are reduced in times of scarcity. The origin of the habit is, to say the least, interesting. Unlike we Britishers, the Hindoos have always been content to give the best to their despoticrulers. While we In the west were laying the founda- tions of our parliaments and teaching our rulers, by force when necessary, that they ruled only by sufferance and from no in divine right. the passive Hindoo lay patiently groaning under the exac- tions of his native rajahs The horrible crueltles and extortions of these potentates are well known to every student of Indfan history. Nobody’s per- Son or property was secure from thelir depredations, and the whole of Hindostan became one vast chamber of horrors. Then it was that the Hindoo became a miser. It was useless for him to invest his money in horses, lands or beautitul dwell- ing places; they could be too quickly torn from him. He must concentrate his wealth into the smallest possible space, and bury it deep beyond the range of the reigning Moguls, or the cut-throat Mahrattas’ ra- pacity. Hence it was that the Hindoo converted all his belongings into useless gold or sil- ver, and became the miser that he is to- day. kor although the strong rule of the white man has stayed the grasping hand of the rajah, the habit of centuries has been found less easy to grapple with and the Hindoos are, to a man, misers in the most far-reaching sense of the word. The act res of these centuries of hoarding—for it must not be forgotten that probably fifty per cent of the poor wretches delay until too late the secret of their hoarded riches, which are thus lost, both to their families, and, indirect- ly, to Indla and the world at large—are astou In 1882 the British Government tried to | get this literally “buried treasure” into | circulation by offering abnormally high rates of interest, but habit was t and the experiment was a | ure. A short time later it w: to the Royal Commi | that during the previous hailf | £130,000,000 in gold and £170,000,000 | or £300,000000 in all haa | into Indta. | Now, it is a significant fact | India will greedily swallow an |of peecious metal, she has ne s reported on Bimetal known to systematically disgor; i | Consequently it may fairly be assumed | that practically the whole of this huge store of wealth was imported In order to replace money withdrawn tion. In passing it should be noted that the from | total amount of coin ctrculating In the | world at that time was estimated by Dr. | SBoetheer at £1.000,000,000. Hence, the | brief space of fifty years In | bury practically one-third of Just how maach she h during the cc | turles of oppression under which | Ject races have groaned .it is | to_estimate. | The hoards gemerally take one of twa her sub- »ossible forms—jewelry or actual coin. The for- | mer range from the familiar siiver ban- | gles of the poorer class Hindoo to the | masstve gold and jeweled 1dols of the rul- | iIng classes. This is considered by the | wily Hindoo to be the most satisfactory form of saving. The jewels pay no in- come tax, are pleasant to the eye, form the daughter's dowry and are treasured ]‘ln each family every whit as much as our own heirlooms. | On the other hand, coins get out of date | and have been known to depreciate in | value—the rupee, for instance. Although | thetr owners have ntention ¢ | putting them into eircul t | nevertheless sharp enov > app this diminution in the value of t all st merchants are frequently the over smallest givers to their fami brethren. e stricken