The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 24, 1897, Page 25

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, S DAY, OCTOBER 24, a7, ,LATEST EDIGTS ISSUED ( Madame, the modiste, who may, for| 1 { aught 1 know to the contrary, be in con- stant telepathic communication with the Parisian powers that be, so closely in touch isshe with what happens from hour to hour in that vortex of changeful fash- ions—madame, I say, has peen taking me into her confidence this week on vari- ous points wherein I hungered and thirsted for knowledge. Now, to my way of thinking, madame isa very wonderful person. Your irue modiste, like your true poet, is born, not made. Of course there are dozens upon dozens of women engaged in the import- ant business of building gowns around the rest of their sex hereabou's, but where, I pray you, can you find me madame’s | equal? To her the trade bacomes with each year of her life—and, mark you, she has been a modiste these five aud twenty of them— more and more of an art. She does not nierely stitch materials together, she com- bines them; e does not simply make a gown, she evolves it. with that of others and there’s a distinc- tion with a difference for you. fine difference—this fairy s vaguely intangible treatment— eatitles madame to highest rank as—as what? Why, an artist in dry goods. to be sure. When madame ta to me in her pretty French-English way, with a vivacity of d an animation that are French, with never a trace of anything n she lingers lovingly over a ment that grew to shapeliness and per- fection under ner supervision, the K¥rench soul of her steeped in exuliant satisfac- tion at the result; skarp littl as bright as a ferret's and as small and green as two marrowfat peas, upon a customer to study her good and bad points and see what can be done for her, then it is that I realize her sphere of usefulness in a world where personal appearances count for well-nigh every- thing. Then it is that I feel madame's subtie power. For, believe me, this round, petite half- century-old woman with the nervons hands and the round eves is a greater ma- gician than Herrmann., My madame, too, is a “‘prestidigitatrice. She can conjure up gowns with the best of them. “Give me a pair of eyesand I will do the rest.” Wise Gallic proverb that! But madame does not despair if there be no eyes worthy the name in point of beauty 1o begin upon. She only wants time and money— oh, plenty of money; time is a secondary site—to gradu a customer-pup L ‘We all know how easy it is to leara when we are eager to do so. Madame makes a specialty of beauty-doctoring her patrons before she permits them to wear what she has tashioned for them. In other words she takes my lady in hand, sharply calls her attention to her eliverance requ them, where to improve, what to guard against in color and style and, in short, bow to make the very most of herse!f in every possible particular. Who among us, in the secret depths of her soul, does not long to be something that she is notin point of personsi at- tractiveness? The plaia woman would ain be pretty, the pretty one beantiful, the beautiful one entrancingly so. A ais- contented lot we are in truth, and have been, I wot, since the world began, ai- ways coveting the unattainable and un- grateful for what nature may have eraci- ously done forus. I dare say Helen of Compare her work | Andit | when she turns her | | trivial thing, and that Cleopatra now and | then made faces at berself in the glass be- | cause there was a ghost of a freckle on her | ravishing Egyptian nose. | Somadame’s patrons listen to heras | they never listen to their pastor of a Sun- | day morning, and thus it is that they ac- | quire *style”; { style and furthermore knowing it they are | straightway charming. SIS * = A pair of pea-creen eyes may not see | what is going on in Paris, but their owner | can tell you what is bzing worn there just | the same. | Asto trimmings, black velvet ribbon is | being yarded off by the miilions of lengths and latticed onto gowns wherever the best | effect is obtainable. It may be wide or | narrow, as you wish, and you can lattice | your goods lavishly—if you be notin- | clined to stoutness. This mode of trim- | ming is at once striking and simple. its simplicity, howev r, may be trans- | formed into ornate elegance by having the soft suriace of the ribbon handsomely jetted and wrought richly with steel beading. An evening trimming i: quite | dazzling if it be of white satin ribbon in | various widths laid on lattice fashion ana | spangled with steel, jet or iridescent | beads. From the plainest of braid for | street wear to the daintiest novelties for gaslizht admiration the lattice decoration climbseverywhere. It is extremely pretty. Why have we been so long adopting it? 1t will be a highly popular trimming this winter over net and grenadine, both plain and jetted or otherwise elaborated. A pretty evening gown of severe sim- | plicity shown me recently was a black net with lattice work of narrow white velvet. Tne neck was finished neatly with black | lace insertion. The girdle was of cerise velvet, the skirt dancing length, gioves back undresced kid reaching to the shoulder, met by a series of net ruffies, Mo Madame trimmings have come to stay throughout the winter. Paree is much enamored of them. There is positively no limit to the variety of coloring and design in them, and they are selling at a mad rate 1n both conventional ana floral outlines. They are solid in color, two-toned, or they rival | in their manifold tints all the prismatic | hues ever dreamed of. | SBometimes alength of white mousseline | de soie is richly wronght with silk, im- | bedded with delicate pink roses. Again, | there may be a fanctinl blending of brown, | | green, pink and blue or heliotrope. Row upon row of narrow silk applique may be used for skirt garniture. 1t is very suit- ably employed when its tones are a re | tition of those in the cloth of the gown. | For example, a heliotrope cloth could | have skirt and bodice banaed with narrow | applique trimming in two tones of helio- | defects, advises her how to best remedy | trope. Of course, the arrangement of the | trimming devends upon the use for which | the gown is destined. | Band trimmings in jet are also orna- | mented with cabochons, not as heavily made, however, as those manu‘actured | for miuiinery wear. | No South Sea islander ever decorated | herself with gewgaws in the bead line one- | haif so delightedly as her civilized msters | arenow doing in the matter of gorgeously | bespangled trimmings 1n this land of the free and home of the emancipated. The gentle dame of high degree who has rare laces in black and white which she wounld I not exchanee for any applique that ever NEW Copyrighted 1877, by WoxAX'S WORLD PUB. Co., N. Y., nfringers will be proseented to the full extent of the 1aw | It was five-gored with the regulation fan TO-DAY. informs me that applique | BY DAME FASHION. I'roy had the sulks occasionally ov>r the | borrowed its glory from the loom can | | length of her eyelashes or some equally | turn from the gay trimmings that do not and being possessed of | | | | | | | | tempt her to her lace treasures. Lace and love never grow old. Forgot- ten they may be, but priceless neverthe- less. We sometimes aiscard them, but | only to don them again in due time. Cluny and Chantilly laces will be much used to elaborate reception and dinner gowns during '97-'98. Insertions of lace are also in the race for popularity as a bodice trimming. Women will wear laces, I predict, so long as the world re- | volves in its orbit. They are luxurlous | and infinitely becoming. ! Bodices have a new trimming called chiffonette gaufre, intended to replace the accordion pleating which has been in use so fong, in lieu of anything as airy in effect. Chiffonette is a combination of shirnings and puffings and will retain its freshness somewhat better than chiffon pleatin s, | Apropos of gauzy fabric', quite the | prettiest material imaginable is mous- | s:line latticed over with silken stripes | woven into it, while around the design | are delicate pink roces, twining, as it were, about a trellis. Such a gown for evening wear, with shapea belt of pink | satin ribbon and pink ostrich tips finish- ing the aecoliete bodice, would be charming, One can scarcely get flounces too deep | for evening gowns, and the tall, thin girl is correspondingly elaied, for several inches may thus be subtracted from her height. Net draperies are a pretty addi- | | | | Correct for Carriage Wear. tion to the evening toilets, embroidered | with jet or spangled with steel. Eomeof | these net trimmings are quite bzwildering in their beauty. The designs are intricate and colors diversified. Rufiles of tbe net | are arranged in rows across a vest of the same. - Skirts grow daily more fanciful. At the back tbey are fan-shaped; at the botiom they flare. sometimes more, sometimes less, but flara tbey must. One skirt that I saw completed this week had a box flare. - P | solutely perfect figures anywhere. for Correst List i > | ALSO A VALUABLE GOLD WATCH AND GHAIN IF YOU SEND 10 , All Former Offers Eclipsed--No Room for Doubt—-Mind what we Say. GORRECT WORDS. $300.00 for a Full Set of Answers, and a Valuable Watch and Chain if you Send at least Ten Gorrect Words. | 1 | Never before was such a remarkable offer made as this. We, the publishers of Woman's | World, deliberately promise to pay $300.00 furthe in cash forafull listof correct answers, and we ree to give an elegant $50 Guarantee American-Made Watch and Chain to you if you send at least 10 correct words, How Can We Afford To Do It? Read and learn our method. We | intend to obtain over one million regular subseri! bers for our great magazine known as Woman’s World, and we have determined to spend all the money we have made in the past five years and | all we shall earn in the next five years, if ne after we have made this extraordinary yet far- the money, brains and reputation to do it! An Instructive and What you are to do is to supply letters of the alphabet in the #0 as to make words that are adapted 1o the deseription given at t Y Words as you can £o it the definitions. but must are to make as max only supply as many letters as there are stars. For exampie we will tell you that the full answer of No. 118 PENNSYLVANIA, backuee than E, N, A, can be supplied to make the name of a State. Again, in No. 9, for examp i ons of Jetters that will give you tl.e name of a President, and in this Instance, ju<t to give you a*tip,”we will mention that the Ist two letters in the last uame are M. Now can you supply the whole namet Profitable Gontest. e right of each set of missing letters. You If at First You Don’t Succeed, Try Again. Bear 1n mind, you are to receive $300.00 in cash )rrect words. Namoofa 1. PAN#S*L#%AK]wgmeinme 2, ®E%%E %% [E % AnQhor State of the 3. CAN®IEN&TI {harinme 4. n % .r 2 N Anniherpl-:‘::li;\;he United 5. Arddvsr i A 4RO Conntey, 6. ¥ % %% ON Alargeriverin America. 7. © % %% AG % Ao iomiands o llinots B, xukuuSEWERED 4.2 publication issued in ) y word needed to make the list complete Newspapers and other accessible mediums of inf rmati received. we shall turn the samé over to the well. 1en corréet words, we shall send you by express, prepai Chain. with nderstanding ‘that, it Woman's World. in accordance with ou 0.00 Guarantee Watch and Chain. Furthe rmore, if thi ame your nearest express office, 1ist of answers, or you will receive the £50.00 Wai been printed millions of tim: list. with 25 cents to pay for three months’ subscripth formed committee of & »u_find as represented. you are to become s rrangements and offer a3 indicated when we send you the valuabie | receive $800.00 in mouey, also the £0.00 Watch and well as post-office address, so the forget to mention whether you want u lady’s or gentleman's watch. d a #50.00 Guarantee Watch and Chaln it you send ch and Chatn (without the cash) i€ you send at least 9, Whhhrhdh AR NAAARY The name of a man noted for receiving 50,000 a year salary. 10. 11. 12, 13. 14. J % P ¥t N Xame ot a distant Country. CHI % % Name of another distant Country. noted a3 Wttt % | % QT % N eoneral of anost & century ago. C#* F % EE A popular kind of drink. % A% ER Another popular drink. s in Geographies, Dictionarfes, nacde as large a list as you can, send I\genrld. A soon as your letter is rs, and. if You have sent at least 4. our $50.00 Guarantee American-mude Wateh and Tegular subsariber to on.” When you hi on 16 W oms e committee decides that you have sent correct Jisf Chain. When you o of more i send your list of words, don’t prize may reach you promptly. YOU WILL WIN A PRIZE OF GOLD! READ THIS, sarsthersnet in the waste basker, the largest list send fuli correct lists we will beautiful and practical watch atood that when you get the the watch and chain back to us. pay $20.00 an your money back, thereby guaranteeing satisfaction 1o 1y reliable and our publication has becn cstal words without enclosing twenty-five cents, yous pay the 300,00 1f n6 one sends us a full list of correct words we wil to While we do not expect more than one full list. if any. we will divide the 10 or less persons send full lists, therehy guaranteeing at least cash to the ot chiafn which we will buy back teh you shall either become a regular sul 1t is further understood ths e or the manner of conducting any part of this contest, you shal #30.00 to euh" hers that follow and will give eve for if not as represented. riber to Woman's World if you are dissatistied v send with the prize awarded you I return what you have received and we will pay you. YOU CAN BE SURE OF A PRIZE BY A LITTLE STUDY. This contest is honestly conducted. The o is 25 cents, to pay for trial subscription. If and the new instruetions, World, although many people imagine that interesting to husbands jou ma Address, plainly: s Prize Dept., WOMAN'S WORLD PUB. C0., North William St., New York City, Ny o | tightne-s at the waist, which dis'orts her s you are already ubscription will be extended on the old ur prize will be sent by express withou won at least $30.00 worth, then you needn’t become a regular subseriber to our magazine is interestin; , fathers, brothers and all other mem 3 {hum our magazine sent to i friend while the prize will come to you. DI New Yark makes no difference in bringing you your prize of money and a wateh. Beopfe far-away States or Provinces have the same opportunity as those who liye in New 3 you are interested in grasping this most remarkable offer, send silver (carefully wrapped) or 13 two-cent stamps, and your to our reliability we refer you to Clarke’s Bank, 154 Nassua St., N nly money you need send with your list of words a subscriber, be sure to mention it, one. 1f your listis correct, as per above L delay, and’if you 't feel fully satisfied oman's Inreality vet if you tance from who live in ork. Now, if i‘mlr list at once, with 25 cents, prize will be forwarded promptly. As Y. or to any Mercantile Agency. oulyto ladles, itis ers of the family, ry, to attain this object, because we know that | ited investment we can easily make a profit of a million dollars a year afterward. We make our calculations upon an enormous scale. We have places of stars in the list of words given below Name of another Presi- L % N % % L Yaent. e was assassinated | | | back, the box pleats folded under at the botiom, where each front and side ter- minated. A dressy skirt is that consisting of a front gore, two box-pleated back gores and two | sliort side gores having their lower por- tions circular in form. Another nas an upper part of three pieces which termi- nitein a hem. This hem laps over a cir- cular flounce. Tbe plain flare skirt, the one most in vogue, has seven gores, the back gores either pleated or gathered at the belt, the side gores slightly sprung at the bottom. wolie g If the corset-makers here and abroad bad laughed aloud as joyousiy as they felt when the Russian bloute came into vogue, they would have been heard half way round the globe. The blouse, you see, has created a demand for a corset | especially adapted to it. It is not quite | enough that you know just how to wear your blouse—the proper ‘‘set” to give to it by the way in which you carry yourself beloro a critical and commendatory world which is ever ready to doff its chapeau to the woman *“‘with an air'’’ that seems to say from every foid and seam, “I'm a natural-born aristocrat.”” No, you must have a new corset like unto no corset you ever got into before in all your well- dressed life. Now, these corsets which have arisen in response t0 the crying needs of the waist irom Russia are Frenchy to the last de- gree—Frenchier than anything yet done across the pond in the corset line of use- fuiness and bygienic murder. They would make Venus weep were tne lady compelied to hop down from her pedestal and wear one. She would rather lose her other arm than doit. And as for the people who go in for corsetless figures and shoes the shape of a mudscow, sensible and hid- eous, why, they are already entering a shrieking protest. I met one of them the other day. She happened along when I was examininga corset warminted to re- construct the anatomy of any woman who might wear it. “Awfull” sald she, sniffing scornfully, and pointing at the offending objsct witl ber umbrella, as though she longed to im- pale it on the ferruie thereof and drop it oun: of barm's way into the gutter. *Whay could be more pernicious o woman's bealth than a thing like that? Did you ever see a victim of tight-lacing dis- sected ?'’ I confessed that I had never been tnrough the experience, my acquaintance with post-mortem ceramonies not even being wpon a bowing plane. “Well, if you had you would never rest entil you had driven corsets from the face of the earth. Why, I bave seen as many as four cavities made in the liver where the ribs had been jammed there by tight-lacing.” As I went my way down Kearny street 1 wondered how many of the women I met had had their hearts knocked out of plumb by corset pressure. Personally, 1 think the corset is a harmless contrivance if worn wisely. What the fattest of our sex would do without such support I can- not say. She would certainly resemble an animated jellyfish on the promenade. Of course she must carefully refrain from * dreadfully, and the steels should be gentle- | cently was on the Giinsborough order, of ness itseli as regards pliabilisy. The ven- tilatea corset has much to recommend it. Almost anything can be twis.ed into a vice if one wants to do the twisting. Cor- sets may be a comfortor a souic: of physi- cal anguish. Lemonade is the most inno- cent of beverages, but drank by the gallon daily would probibly ere long inter one’s grave. The new blouse corset is extremely low in the bust, very long over the abdomen and curves almost like a hoop over the hips. It is requisite that the hips should be allowed as much freedom as possible. Thus it will be seen that we women who wish to blindly follow where fashion leads must cultivate an entirely new se: of curves, It is rather considerate of the lungs, this corset, for it expands in the vicinity of the solar plexus. At the waist line it soars outward in the place provided for the hips. It is strictly more of a girdle than a corset. especially when compared with the corset of English make, which has the opposite characteristics, being high in the bust, long in the waist (this effect produced by the very short gores baneath the bust) and 80 high under the armpits that it really in- | terferes with the movement of the arms. Who can deny that her corvet has much to do with the individuality of a woman? If it be English she is severe, prim, un- yielding, stiff-necked. If it be French she is lissome, coquettish, sinewy, easily poised as to neck muscl In short, a woman uncon:ciousty lives up to her corset. Entre nous, there are few, very few ab- The tiny detect that would escape notice all one’s life if one were notan ar-ist’s model cannotescape the eyes of the corset-maker. All women who can afford it should have the'r corsets made to order, for no two women have forms exactly alike. corset-makers tell me that many sup-os- ediy pertect fizures have irregularities of outline that only skillful dressing can conceal. Higs vary in height oh either side; so do shoulders. One’s back on the right of one’s vertebra may be perfectly straight; on the corresponding side it mcy sope slightly inward., These are trifles, but they hamper the modiste and perplex the corset-maker. A discrepancy Light-Mourning Costume, nthe hips may play havoc with the set of a rt, and some women have shoul- der blades like sprouting wings. The lat- ter is a problem for the corset-maker to 0 ve; the former brings wrinkles to the brow of the dressmaker. The day may dawn when corsets will be obsolete, but I question it any woman reader of Tue Carn will be on hand to witness their disappearance. PO o o * Piumage, p/umage evervwhere. A bird upon &t least two of one’s autumn and winter hats is almost as necessary as the hair upon one’s head. This, notwith- standing the plea from kind-hearted people who would abolish from millinery everything feathered that ever flew or walked. Go and study a copvof the Duchess of Dev- onshire’s famous portrait if you would know at precisely what tilt to wear your larger hats. From wearing our headcover- ings over our noses we must veer to the side- tilt, a style infinitely more becoming, the forward pitch being most trying to most faces. Indeed, I heve seen a Madonna-featured woman made positively wicked in appear- ance by & hat sliding toward her chin. The winter styles tend toward the pictur- esque and artistic. One can exag, te the Gainsborough as much as one pleases. I opine that the big hats of the coming season will b2 the most attractive that we have seen in a vear. The usefullittle bandeau at the left, where the trimming is mostly grouped, according to miilinery rule, enables the most topheavy affair to rest comfortably upon the head, where they will not be the sportof our mock t-ade winds, since those Loisterous breezes die their climaticdeath with the falling of the rains, 7The side flare, in fact, rules all large hats, and velvet knots and ends, steel buckles, flowers and numberless or- nameants will find place there. Velvet, alwavs velvet. You cannot have too much of it. And by the by, hunt among your bandboxes, and scrapboxes, too, in the sewing-room-or wherever they may be bidden, for bits of fur for the edge of the hat’s brim. It is a touch that makes a charmingly winiry effect, imparting a certain richness to the whole. Rhinestone buckles, brilliants, pins— any amount of gorgeous novelties will brighten and enrich winter hats. Velvet isan extremely fetching background for them., The cunning hand of the miiliner never held a better opportunity than right now to show its skill in puffs, folds, bows, drapes, knots, twists, shirrings and every other form of garniture that fancy and taste can suggest for the manipulation of velvet. A lovely gray hat which pleasea me re- | | amaz:d digestive organs in an untimely | The | | gray beaver, the brim draped with velvet to match, while three handsome ostrich | tips rose over a knot of the velyef, which was also shirred around the crown. A rhinestone buckle under the flare, where pink and gray velvet were prettily twisted together, and a round green-stone orna- mentiat ;the base of the feathers com- pleted this specimen of millinery achieve- ment in choice of colors and treatment. For morning wear, whether one goes to business pursuits or shopping, felt beavers are most suitable. They come in shapes that will adapt themselves to facial needs, and may be prettily trimmed with cock’s feathers at the left, banded with gros- grain ribbon, or loops of ribbon with a jaunty quilt or two. Ihe quilis I fancy very much for traveling. All the brims of walking hats are rolling and are bound with gros-grain ribbon or a .galloon that matches it. Feathers do not by any means have to match. They are to be much used in sev- eral tones or two, and also in contrasting colors. Toques are somswhat like the shapes worn last winter, but the beaver feit has entirely superseded the dull black felts ‘We wore a year ago, and they have in con- sequence of their glossy surface a much dressier and more expens.ve appearance. Twists and folds of velvet, knotted with steel or other buckles or ornaments, around the low crown, meet at the left side and closely to the font in upright tr.mmings of birds, aigrettes, quills, velvet loups or ribbons, as the choice may be. Uncut velvet enters largely into hat trimmings. Head dresses—they can scarcely be dignifiel by the name of bonnets—are glittering and effective. Wings, heavily spangled, rise aggres- s vely from them, and rosettes and orna- ments of an oraate kind further embellish these small but important accessories to the evening portion of the up-to-date woman’s wardrobe. Togues made of vel- vet are very chic. One that I saw the other day was of hunter’s green velvet, shaded green cock's feathers rising from tne crown, where rosettes of velvet and shaded pink roses formed the trimming, together with a handsome rhinestone ornament of odd pattern. Steel butter- flies, their wings quivering on wires until they fairly sparkle, are also a pretty novelty. St aer And this reminds me that I have not told you about the most stunning hat which has crossed my vision within the week. Itgraced the charming head and pretty face of a debutante who isa par- ucuiarly stylish dresser—Miss Marie Mes- ser. Isaw her on Montzomery street as she left the Occidental with Miss Polhe- mus, where they had been guests a: Miss Gertrude Forman’sluncheon. The hat was a black silk-velvet, on the brim of whicn curled a magnificent, pure white ostrich plume. Miss Messer’s gown was Russian- bloused as to bodice, and the entire toilette, though sombzar, was an excellent setting for the brunette olive of her com- plexion, and her petite figure. Har com- panion, Miss Polhemus, 1s a blonde of strikingly fair appearance. Miss Hoffman, who aflects nat y taior gowns, is one of society’s distinguisbed- looking belles. Ho-r gowns are noticeable | for their fauitle:s fit on her ratber ta slender figare. Miss Alics Hoffman, her sisier, who made her debut last season, is a stylish dresser, as ere also Miss Forman, Miss Bessie Ames, Miss Marie Wells and Mourning Costume. Miss Leila Burton. Miss Wells gives care- ful attention to the details of dress. Miss Burton is seen frequently in black, relieved by crimson roses in a large hat with nodding sable tips, a ripple cape of fur upon her shoulders. Our society girls revel in pretty gowns, and above all they know how to wear them. = a8 e Children’s clothing—but that is another story which I will tell next week. DoroTay QUILL. Marcella’s Modes. Suggestions concerning every reliable novelty ara of the greatest value at the be- gloning of each season, therefore I shall to-day chronicle the charms of numerous models and designs. I have been admir- ing one visiting gown of exceptional chic which wilt shortly be worn by a distin- guishea-looking bride. It is of rich black and blue striped silk, the stripes being one inch in width. The circular skirt hangs asonly such a skirt can when periectiy cut. It is cut out at either side, a V- shaped opening revealing turquoise blue velvet, on which are trimmings of black ostrich feathers. The V's are edged with the same. You would have to see the bodice to fully appreciate its «tyle, but into its composition enters the striped silk, moiroir velvet, cut jet and feather trimming. The fronts are of the velvet and the sleeves fit snugly, having merely short caps. The lining isof tur- quoise blue taffeta completed with frills. A pretty debutante looks well in a toilet of hyacinth satin cloth. Arouna the skirt’s bottom is a trellis of black braid and the bodice is compietely covered with it. The sieeves are regular ‘“‘coat sieeves,” and throughout the lining is of an excellent quality of black silk. The round bluck felt hat worn is correct and | | NEW TO-DAY—DRY GOODS. 2OVOOOOOK NEW STYLES AND NOVELTIES —IN— Outer Garments —aAaT— Matchlessly Low Prices! In inviting an inspection of the Peerless collection of CORRECT STYLES AND EXCLUSIVE NOVELTIES in LADIES’ AND CHILDREN’S the ELEGANCE OF FINISH, LADIES" MIXED TAN CHEVIOT 1nlaid with velvet, value for §6— value for §14— green mixtures, value for $9— L7 & & ;& o L5 & Sadsdd handsomely trimmed, with silk, $12 50— LADIES' BLACK BOUCLE CLOTH black Thibet fur, value for $4— LADIES' GRAY KRIMMER FUR value for $9— Murphy Building, Market and Jomes Streets. | prising the COMPLETE NEW STOCK of our great Cloak Department, we desire to remind intending purchasers of STYLISHNESS OF MATERIAL that characterize all gar- ments handled|by us, and as an extra inducement to an early call we offer the following Remarkable Values This Week ! ON SALE AT $4.00. LADIES' KERSAY JACKETS, with new collar and high fly front, colors black, navy and tan, value for $10— ON SALE AT 87.50. LADIES’ BLACK ASTRACHAN CLOTH JACKETS, lined all through with black silk, shield fly front, handsome cord ornament on front, ON SALE AT S10.50. LADIES' CLOTH SUITS, in fancy broken checks, blouse waists nicely trimmed with folds of velvet, skirts lined with percaline, blue and LADIES’ WOOL SUITS, in fancy mixed suitings, Russian blouse waisls, ON SALE AT $9.00. LADIES’ BLACK SILK DRESS SKIRTS, in satin and silk figures, new designs, double lined and bound, value for $10— . ON SALE AT $7.50. CHILDREN'S REEFER JACKETS, box front, high neck, storm collar, trimmed with braid, assorted colors, size: ON SALE AT S$1.50. 2R OUTER GARMENTS, com- PERFECTION OF FIT and CLOTH JACKETS, storm collar, ON SALE AT s$6.50. waists lined and boned, value for to 12, value for $2 50— CAPES, storm collar, edged with ON SALE AT S$2.50. LADIES' FUR CAPES, in electric seal, with astrachan yoke, lined with tancy silk, full swezp and 20 incaes long, valae for $20— O SALE AT S$15.00. COLLARETTES, lined with silk, ON SALE AT S$5.00. Murphy Building, Market and Jones Strests. o e e suitable for the frock, having just a touch | of hyacinth blue. ; A young matron, who has just received | several mourning dresses, has one of an | exceptionally fine casbmere, almost com- | pletely covered with crepe. This appears | on the skirt asan exceedidgly deep hem, and rolls of it extend in V-shaped points | up to the waist. The boaice is entirely | composed of the crepe laid in tucks across the front, The sleeves of cashmere have crepe caps finely tucked. Many Blue Costumes Are appearing, and most chic are those in which are perfectly blendea three shades, all having a tendency toward a powder tone, quite light in shade. With one such | dress was carried a muff of pale-blue vel- ! vet, hemmed with ermine and fastened with Wedzewood buttons, set with dia- | monds. The toque that matehed it came | from Carlier's and was simply lovely. One thing that should commend it es- pecially to thcse who do not care to wear feathers during the winter was that no ostrich plumes were used. Instead four very excellent wings of a real powder- blue shade stood erect on the left. Duty and all this dear bit of a trifle cost only $25. Are you surprised and declare that | a yard of veivetand four wings are high at that price? Not atall; you want style and an air. That is what you are paying for, and you | will have to spend just thirty dollars if | you wou!d own another tiny Parisian affair, imported by one of our best known milliners. Itis partially made of an odd | fabric, that is half straw and half velvet in appearance, and yet is neither the one nor the other on it, which are black and white stripes exactly one-sixteenth of an inch wide, and this is closely shirred all the way down the middle, and at either side is a chou of light blue velvet with a rhinestone center, ana at the left side ls a medium-sized black aigrette. The de- scription is simple enough, but not one 1n a thousand could make those velvety materials assume such a dainty aspect. I was shown not long ago a home-made reproduction of a French hatr. The maker desired my candid opinion, and the oniy thing that came into my mind at the time was one of Hamlet’s remarks, which I think was something like this: ‘Whence and what art thou, questionable shape? | However, I did not give her the benefit | of the quotation, and unless she isa mind- reader she will never know my opinion, for I fled. But still the humpy-bumpy thing haunts me, as does also one awiul summer affair which 1 was cail d upon to inspect. On it nodded a scrap of Isce, a molting hird and a buach of brand-new cotton roses that clashed with the white siraw. And will you believe it? Both of these hideous things were put togetiier by women who could well have afforded as many Paris chapeaux as they desired. Save in something else if necessary, but do have a good hat, gloves and shoes if you desirs to pass muster among well- gowned women. Now, you really must hear about a few evenirg bodices. One of rose colored veivet has a trans- parent yoke of good old lace, which also forms the sleeves. In front the velvet is laid in surplice folds, and round the waist a band of vel- vetis crushed softly. Quite simple and dainty is & bodice of net all over embroidered with steel, which | is now considered far more fashionable for embroideries on nets, gauzes and chif- fons than silver. The net is gracefully laid over a white glace silk foundation. At the throat and waisy are black velvet ribbons, and the yoke effect, in front, is outlined with lace, and it composes the very deep and full ruffles for the elbow- sleeves, This bodice is slightly pouched in front and looks wonderfuily well with the sim- vly draped skirt thataccompaniesit. The sash that encircles the waist terminates in long loopes and ends. This reminds me that sashes are to be much in evidence for evening wear. You will all be more or less interested in a model evening confection, for the overskirt is composed entirely of lace in one piece, with long panels thatextena over the hips, and all the lace is enriched with delicate gold and silver embroidery, and sable is introduced with most deco- rative results, On the bodice -are revers of the em- broidery edged with the sable. A chiffon sash embroidered and sable trimmed is of a becoming shade of apricot yellow and | exactly matches the foundation silk over which is the lace. For really formal visiting velvet is to be | much seen and one such dress is of gray Lyons silk velvet trimmed with chin- chilla. The entire bodice is veiled with a network of blzck pearls and steel. For a church wedding what couid be more ap- propriate when completed with a toque of gray velvet which has the appearance of having had all the threads pulied out after having been closely shirred? Rest- ing next the hair is a bunch of perfict violets, with their leaves, and a single gray ostrich plume of rare beauty is ar- ranged at the left side, and I must really tell you of a sumptuous wedding gown worn during the first part of this month by a most fashionable bride. To begin with it had a train of ivory-embossed vel- vet over an empire gown of ivory satin hemmed with sable. Some priceless old lace was draped across the top part of the bodice. Rather a brief description, is it Stops i Gray Hair Before it spoils your brauty and puts the seal of age on a youthful face. Mrs. Neitie Harrison's 4)-day Ha'r Rettorer is a harmless preparation that restores gray or faded hair 1o its natural color, without any incon- ven‘ence or aisagreeable after effects. Not a dye, cleanly to use, free from sediment or sticky matter. Price §la bottle. All druggists. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, DERMATOLOGIST, 40-42 Geary st., San Francisco, Cal. e A A it FEW TO-DAY!