Evening Star Newspaper, March 12, 1933, Page 33

The coat above is made of tweed with the tray shoulder bordered with a fringe of monkey fur. The coat at the upper right is of wool in new eel gray shade, emphasizing shoulder width and worn over print dress striped in eel gray and white. THE SUNDAY STAR. WASHINGTON, Designs From New Collection ‘D. T S Pale pink jersey satin for evening ‘dress of very simple lines trimmed with eel gray ostrich feather tips at the base of the back decolletage. The gloves match the feathers. Hat May Give Character To Ensemble as a Whole BY JEANNE VIVET. HE hat is the most important feature of the costume. It gives character, zest, and incividuality to the entire ensemble. Rightly chosen, it can transform the most ordinary costume: wrongly chosen, it can ruin the smartest frock or coat. Do you feel gay and debonair? There is a hat to give just that note to your costume. Do you feel dignified and impressive? 1It's easy to create that air by the proper choice of & hat. I would revise the old sayipg to read, “I carz not who makes your costumes, if I can make your hats.” For with a hat, I can change not only the entire en- semble, but the whole personality as ‘well. ‘That is why, to me, it is much more dnteresting to be a modiste, to create hats, than to be a couturier and create gowns. For the hat maker can cn- hance or ruin the effect of the smartest Srock. A hat is a little thing—a twist of Velvet, a mere handful of straw. Draped this way, it becomes bright, spontane- ous; draped that, it takes on a tilting, Toguish character. Often I have no idea, when I take a piece of felt or satin into my hands, what it is to be. ©Oh yes, I know in a general way that it is to be a hat. But what is it to express? What part is it to play in the costume? Perhaps I take my inspira- tion from the-mannequin who is posing for me. This morning, she seems sad, pensive, so the hat takes on her mood. It becomes a sober little hat, with an infinite grace. Of suppose this morn- ing, she is full of life and happiness. Perhaps she makes a droll remark, as I | pin and clip the felt. For me she personifies the warm, fragrant Spring- time, and before I know it. I have added a little bow, or a provocative peak, that is as full of laughter as her own eyes, IT may be that I take a little vacation at the seaside. Like so many Parisians, I like to drop everything and run away for a few days to Brittany or Normandy. There I spend hours ‘wandering along the beach, or I watch the men coming in from the sea. It may be I catch sight of a young sailor, ‘who has set his hat on his head at a delightful angle. I visualize the sams hat set at a tantalizing tilt on the head of a young girl. And the moment I am back in my work rooms, I set to work to create the canotier that my Vvisit suggested. Or some late afternoon, I may be walking along the streets of the Left Bank of Paris. It is just at the hour when the students of the lycees are pouring out of the buildings. Here comes a young medical student, with his velvet beret decked with gay rib- bons. He has the eyes of the dark mannequin in my atelier. Next morn- ing she poses while I twist and drape a piece of velver on her head, twining through it a band of contrasting velvet, and tying it in a chic bow. Often, the mannequin enters into the little drama of creating. She may not like the way the fabric drapes above her eyes, or she may suddenly have a sug- gestion of her own. We discuss the problem, often most vivaciously. We argue. Perhaps I don't like her idea. but I'm willing to be convinced. For I know that creation grows out of every sort of thing. One can’t close one’s ears or eyes if one is to create. Not if one is to create successfully. For crea- tion implies a host of ideas pourin intp ane’s brain all the time. Some of them will be good, some bad, but ideas there must be. * Kk x WISH that women would not limit themselves to one or two hats in a season. Every woman should have dozens of hats—there ought to be a hat for every mood. Of course, you ‘Wwill agree that each ensemble demands its own hhu: but youh‘need nl l;ltugu'r every w every change of feeling. Bometimes wnenmumthmd gavety. er times you severe * X ok X and business-like. Can you imagine wearing the hat chosen in the moment of gayety on the day when you wish to be, oh, very severe and impressive? No, you need a hat for each of those moods. So you need hats that express the many phases of your temperament. Perhaps you are thinking to your- self that this is all very well, but that it is much too extravagent for most wom- | en. But let me assure you it is not ex- travagent to have many hats. Why? Because each time you put on a new hat, your observers believe you have on | | a'new costume. I know women in | Paris who must dress on the most tim- ited allowances. A new frock is a real event for them. They make the same | dress or coat last for a very long time. But hats—do they limit themselves to one or two? By no means. They let a new hat take the place of a new frock. By changing hats they know they have changed the entire character | of the costume they are wearing. * k% % THE Parisian woman is very clever in the matter of accessories. She! knows how easy it is to appear smartly | dressed, if her hats and other acces- sories are chic and individual. Perhaps she has a single black afternoon dress. It is a very well made dress, created on the season’s smartest lines. But if she were to wear it with the same hat, | the same lingerie touches, ‘the same gloves and jewels day in and day out, | it would become very monotonous. She | can't afford an entire new outfit so | she adds to her wardrobe from time to | time a smart hat, or the newest thing in collars, or in costume jewelry. When she appears at tea people don't say “There's Madame So-and-So in the | same old frock.” They say ‘“How | stunning Madame So-and-So always | looks."” | "It's a little trick I would like to pass on to you. For it is the real secret of | more than one woman's clever dress- ing. And such an easy and pleasant secret as it is—a new hat now and then, to give new character and individuality. It's 2 most feminine and spontaneous | way of economizing. (Copyright. 1933.) P i Late Fashion News. | Paris, March 4. { QUISTANDING as perhaps the | greatest general change in dress | for the coming season is the downfali fof the backless evening dress. Almost with one accord, designers have aban- doned it. Schiaparelli is an exception. She favors the backleds gown for eve- ning wear. The newest evening bodice, according to many designers, is almost Puritan in its simplicity and offers, in its un- broken back reaching to the actual round neckline, an opportunity for the display of richly embroidered silver and colored fabrics. Fronts of evening gowns are cut in sharp V's, or show cutout lines which are raised nearer the neck. The simple square neck, cut out very slight- ly, is sponsored by Patou. Adding Luster. HENNA and camomile are two of the oldest preparations for adding gloss and luster to the hair and they are still high in favor. Lemon juice is another favorite, which may be used just as it comes from the fruit itseif or incorporated in & rinse powder. Henna, ‘of course, may be used either as a dye or as a simple rinse. In the former case it should be applied only by a specialist, but there are several shampoos and rinsss on the market which impart a slight reddish tint to the hair without being in any sense dyes, and which may used by the woman who shampoos her own hair, Camomile tea, too, may be brewed at home and used as a final rinse or bought in & prepared form. !Variety in Style Favors Individual Achievement BY SYLVESTRE DORIAN, Director of the Paris Fashion Service. The writers of the Paris Fashion Service. Who rotate as contributors to this series of articles the following: Agnes-Drecoll, Bruvere. Cheruit. Heim. Lanyin, Louise Boulanger, Hubert, Paule- Madoc. Martial et Armand. d'Ahetze, Lyolene. Patou. Molvneux, Le Monnier. Rose Valois, Rose Descal. Schiaparelli, Magey Rouff. Marcel Rochas, Lucile Paray. PARIS, March 4. ERHAPS the most characteristic thing about the present season is its variety. There’s no one silhouette, no one color, no one fabric more favored than an- other. a cozen silhouettes, varying from tke strictly tailored one to the feminine, as | interpreted in Patou’s moyen age gowns, and in the Victorian silhouettes that continue popular because they.are 5o youthful and so becoming. Rarely have women had greater op- portunity to dress smartly and individ- ually than this season. For there is no reason at all why any woman should choose a style merely because it is the mode. By taking the time to look about, she is certain to find a costume or hat that might have been designed for her alone, so perfectly does it suit her_type. This sort of individuality has been common in evening gowns for several seasons past. Women have definitely recognized the dramatic possibilities of gowns that truly express their person- alities, and at an evening party, one is likely to see costumes of very different inspiration. For instance, at a bril- liant reception at one of the embassies recently, I noted Cheruit’s model of black cire net embroidered with field flowers—a most sophfisticated gown— and right next to it, a most feminine and jeune fille sort of thing in pale blue chiffon, ruffied and draped in the manner of the 90s. Usually the spirit of these costumes is carried out still further by the manner of hair dressing, which varies from a severe almost man- nish cut to soft ringlets at the back of the head. Few seasons have been more picturesque, chiefly, I think, because women have learned to choose evening costumes which definitely suggest their | types. ERE THERE is, of course, less leeway in clothes for daytime wear. The young woman who goes completely Vic- torian at night, may hesitate to do so for her stroll in the Bois—and rightly, of course. However, even in daytime clothes, I observe much greater variety than is usual. In an hour’s walk the other morning through the Bois, I noted several interesting and very in- dividual costumes, all of them smart and fashionable, yet quite different in character. A costume suggestive of the Tyrolian peasant garb was in dark green wool, worn with a matching felt hat, in which was stuck a gay contrasting feather. Close-fitting and youthful, the costume was such as might have been seen on a native girl of the Austrian Accompanying the young woman in the Tyrolian ccstume was a tall girl of English type in a cape costume of rough, colorful twesd. The cape, cut on circular lines, was full lei and opened to show a matching and & belted jersey overblouse. Tones of gold and brown mingled in the tweed, | which was worn with brown accessories”| —brown English brogues, a wide leather belt, heavy leather gloves and a man- nish brown felt hat. In each case the wearer had chosen & costume peculiarly suited tosher own personality. The first girl was:a small, dark, vivaclous type, who -wore Alpine costume with delightfal grace; the second was a tall bl with clear skin, who was most attractive in gm S‘v:e% costume. I could not l‘l'lfig- e wo changing costumes, e out entirely destroying the ; effect of individuality and character, On the contrary, there are half | the | stick are to the face—decoration. THE same feeling for variety is noted in afternoon frocks, where the picturesque and sophisticated types vie for first place. Of course, they are worn by very different types of women, who find in them features expressive of their own personalities. One is sure to see costumes that vary from | the strictly tailored in wool or heavy |silk, to the very suave costume of black lacquered satin. The blouse and skirt costume, which has taken Paris with such storm, is also a favorite for informal afternoon wear, particularly | with those women who find this mode | becoming. One costume of this kind noted on the Champs Elysees had a blouse of a heavy silk pique, fitted in walstcoat manner, with very wide revers which extended down into a surplice closing, marked with buttons. The white blouse contrasted smartly with the slim skirt of black wool. Worn with this costume was a small Watteau type of hat, with a cluster of cire ribbon at the side back. ERE ANO’fl-mR striking costume was in several shades of green. The hip- |length blouse was in a very lustrous C, Army Post Scene of Society Circus Practice Fort Myer has been the scene of great aetlvity during the past week, the | the: Saclety Circus rehearsals having started and with unusually pleasing prospects. More and different events are sched, uled, and the new crop of equestri- ennes, in addition to their riding skill, are most fair to look upon. ‘The boxes and seats are going rap- idly, much more rapidly than ever be- fore, and full houses are expected for all four performances. Among the patrons who have accepted at this early date are: The new Secre- tary of War George H. Dern, the Ger- man Ambassador, Herr von Prittwitz und Gaffron; the Polish Ambassador, Mr, Stanisiaw Patek, and many others. Performances will be held at 2:30 and 8:15 o'clock FPriday, March 31, and Saturday, April 1. Admission will be from 50 cents to $2.50, be d Army relief and to District of Columbia and local charity and welfare. Lieut. Alexander McCone has charge of res- ervations. . Women's Society of Maryland University Tea The Women's Senior Honor Society of the University of Maryland is hold- ing a-tea March 18 from 3 to 5 o'clock, at the American Association of Univer- sity 'Women, 1634 I street northwest, in honor of Mortar Board members. All Mortar Boards are cordially invited. Italian Diplomatu to Enjoy “Pinocchio™ Show Marquis Pasquale Diana, counselor of the Italian embasy, will occupy a box at the performance of "Pinoec{lo." by the Children's Theater of Ne York, Saturday morning. March 18. This play has awakened general interest in the little known but thoroughly de- he | sentative Joseph Martin, Re] John MARCH 12, 1933—PART THREE. !l(hthl body of Italian juvenile litera- irlo Lorenzini, the suthor of “Pinoc- ers story will be the means of awaken! American children to the delights Italian fairy tales and £« Members of Congress » Guests of State Society ‘The Massachusetts Society will hold its annual “ladles’ dance” March 16 at the Bhoreham Hotel. Dancing will be from 9 to 1. The George Washington Glee Club will furnish entertainment. Among those invited are Senator David 1. Walsh, Representative Pher Holmes, Senator Marcus Coolidge, Mrs. Coolidge and daughter, Miss Helen; Representative Edith N. Rogers, an:‘e- tative J, Representative John McCormick and Undersecretary of State William Phillips. The “ladles’ | dance”, is the most brilliant affair of | the season and many are expected to attend. LAY SR e Wedflinj Announced From Philippine Isles Lieut. Col. Donald Cowan McDonald, Field Artillery, U. S. A, and Mrs. Mc- Donald of Fort Stotsenburg, P. I, anwounce the, marriage of their daughter Jean Tyler, to Lieut. Audrey Kenneth Dodson, Air Corps, U. S. A. The wedding took place January 2e. Miss McDonald lived in Washington for four years prior to her departure for the Philippines and attended Western High Sehooi and the Washington School for Secretaries. Lieut. Dodson graduated from West Point in 1930. After a trip to Java, Bali and Borneo, Lieut. and . Dodson will be at home at Nichols Field, P. 1. ful | sisted by Mrs. Gf Cole. Frances Scott Chapter Guests of Mrs. Garges ‘The Frances Scott Chapter, D. A. R., was entertained March 7 at a tea given by Mrs. Alfred B. Garges at her home, on Twenty-eighth ‘street. She was as- Hibert Priend and Mrs. Miss Fannie E. Mareau, Miss Mary L. Ma- reau, Mrs. W. Alden Wall, Mrs. Bell Gil- more, Mrs, Norman G. Hough, Mra. P. J. Goensch, Mre. Frank Ray, Mrs. James Wheeler of Natick, Mass.; Mrs. Fowler Barker, Mrs. Arthur Adelman, Mrs. E. P. Andrus, Mrs. Prank Bell, Mrs. Charles Bright, Mrs. E. P. Cassell, Mrs. Warren ly, Mrs. Walker Martin, Mrs. Charles Molster, Mrs. Robert Reeder, Mrs. Edward Stephenson and Mrs. Howard Kane, — o Arts Club Programs Hold Special Interest Mrs. Emily Coville, soprano, and Miss Minna Niemann, pianist, will open the mfim for the week. These two musici will give their recital on Tuesday evening, when Mrs. Katherine Hill Rawls will serve as accompanist for Mrs. Coville. The evening'’s hostess will be Mrs. Morris Wickersham. Mr. Clifford K. Berryman wil be in charge of Thursday evening’s program, when he will give an illustrated talk on “Presidential Candidates Portrayed by Partisan Caricaturists.” This will constitute one of Mr. Berryman's fa- mous *“ ."” The hosts on ‘Thursday evening will be the vice pres- ident of the Arts Club and Mrs. Charles Bittinger. —_—— Only 45 of the 45,000,000 visitors to Southend, the English resort, last year, were convicted of drunkenness. Thomas Fefferson The First Democrat . | master general, $102,984 contract for APARTMENT CONTRACT LET AT WALTER REED e pi—— Structure for Non-Commissioned Officers at Hospital to Cost $102,084. Maj. Gen. John L. DeWitt, quarter- y awarded a the construction of an apartment house for non-com- missioned icers on’ duty at Walter Reed Hospital. The contract went fo the McCormick, Lenham Co., of Fhiladelphia, and the work is to be completed within six months. ‘The building will contain 18 :E‘-n- ments of four rooms each. It be & three-story structure with tile and brick face to conform to the general architectural scheme of other buildings at the Army medical center. The site selected is in the northeast section on Fern street, between Georgia avenue and Thirteenth street. PLANE TAKES PATIENT FROM SHIP TO KOSPITAL Emergency Appendicitis Operation Follows Contact With Tanker Off North Florida. By the Associated Press. MIAMI, Fla, March 11.—Charles Hippman, engineer aboard the Sinclair tanker E. R. Kemp, was brought here today by the Coast Guard flying boat Acamar for an emergency appendi- citis operation after being removed from the tanker off the North Florida Coast. ‘The Acamar, flying from Miami, con- tacted the Kemp off Ponce de I=on at 1 pm., and landed here on the return flight at 5 p.m. Hij whose home is in Dallas, Jackson Memorial ~ Tex., was taken to Hospital. The Thomas Jefferson Memorial Exhibit has been of such great interest to visitors and Washingtonians alike that we take pleasure in announcing that it |leaf-green satin, made with full, softly | draped sleeves, gathered into a cuff at the wrist, and a capelike collar which tied to form a rather high neck- line. Worn with this was a plain, straight skirt of deep green woolen, very lightweight and soft in char- acter. The hat accompanying this costume was a green felt, matching in color the blouse, and tilted up in the back in the Louis XV manner. A quill of the darker green was slipped through the felt and formed a jaunty little curl of ostrich at the back. Dull black accessories completed this smart ensemble, which incidentally was very well suited to its wearer, a tall slender woman of pale olive skin, and lacquered black hair, which she wore brushed smoothly back in sculptural lines. Quite as interesting, but wholly different in character, was a costume worn by a very young girl—a pale blonde with deep blue eyes. She had chosen Patou’s soft blue gray for a suit, trimmed in pale gray fox. The cool coloring of the costume proved to be a perfect frame for her rather pastel type of loveliness, and I noticed num- bers of people glancing at her with admiration for her fresh beauty. Yet, had this same young woman chosen the green costume, she would have been lost. It was a case of selecting the costume that truly expressed her own personality. As I have said before, this season offers unlimited opportunity to the woman willing to select colors and lines that are in harmony with her individuality. (Copyright, 1933.) Permanent Waves. THE permanent wave should be looked upon for exactly what it is—a pure- ly decorative touch. It does not promise any hair improvement except becoming- ness, Compare the permanent wave to | make-up for the face. Rouges and powders do not preserve the beauty of the complexion. Cleverly applied, they submerge mild defects, but the most beautifully made up complexions are achieved over healthy skins® So it is with hair and the permanent ‘wave. The best permanents are achieved with healthy hair. They are the hair what rouge, powder and lip- They should not be accepted with optimism—with the idea that they do away with the necessity of hair brush- ing and good care of the hair any more that decorative cosmetics for the face make it possible to dispense with all care of the A Collection oi.;bra Ten Repr‘g;duc An Exhibit of Paintinés et — A Display of Washington Drawinés by J. B. Himmelheber by Washington Artists corrections made by Dr. Franklin and Mr, Adams will remain on our 6th Floor until March 18th The exhibit is accompanied by wings and Etchings by J. Benson Moore and tions of Jefferson’s Monticello Furniture Among the photostats of Jefferson’s papers and letters will be found thge rougll?copy of The Declaration of Independence showing Among the Furniture Reproductions on Sale W. B, Woses & ‘Nat'l 3770 ; Tilt-top table in solid ma- hogany with delicately fluted pedestal ..... Drop-leaf sew! $29.75 ing table, also of solid mahogany. .. ..$39 Known chair. as “Monticello” A Hepplewhite de- sign in mahogany....$29.75 A Sheraton m of delicate, un mahogany .. . otif arm chair ique design in A leather upholstered desk chair—a century ahead of its time. (Picture not SROWR) <o s 90D Sons F at lith