Evening Star Newspaper, January 8, 1933, Page 37

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C., JANUARY 8 1933—PART Fitted Lines Seen in Costumes |ARFORCEOFU.S The dress above of striped marocain in ved, white and black, worn under the fitted coat of black kasha at the right, forms a new Spring ensemble. The €oat is cut with a low bateau neckline to show the scarf of the dress. Straight open sleeve in a coat of black Leda cloth, with a short collarless cape of broaduil tied with a scarf of stitched silk, is at extreme right. Black Most Popular Now; Hats an BY SYLVESTRE DORIAN. Director of the Paris Fashion Sefvice. The writers of the Paris Pashion Serv- le. who rotste s¢ contritutorp fo shis Beries of articles are the following: nes-Drecoll. Bruyere, Cheruit. Heim, nvin, Louise Boulanger. Hubert. Paule- Yadoe, Mariial et Armand, §Aneize yolens. Patou, Molyneux. Le mier, Rose Valois, Rose Descat Schisparell d Jackets Match RUST shades afe seen on thousands of dresses. and some attractive woolen coats also exploit these, Hats still tilt to one side, and this tilt may | be to either side, according to your own idea as to which looks best with your profile, but the tilt-up on the right, All Styles Must Trends BY CHERUIT. CONBIDER the woolen coat smart- est of all shown in present Paris collections. Just as sumptuous fur garments were appropriate in those prosperous years when everybody had plenty of money, and reflected the conditions of the time, the practical Reflect of Present Day that the former no longer can lay | claim to such a name, while the poorer ones, since they were all along dressing by taste and not money, are as attrac- tively attired as ever. The woman with personal ideas for dressing is essentially happy. She has the secret satisfaction of knowing she has something that cannot be taken IN FOURTH PLACE Combat Aviation Unit Has Shortage of Planes as Well as Pilots. The year which has just closed finds the United Btates reduced to fourth place among the world powers in the strength of its “air force” or purely combat aviation, as separated from ob- servation aviation, according to a review of the year just completed by the Army Air Cofps. ‘Though the year matked the close of the five-year program of the Air Corps. strength in personnel and equipment fell far short of that contemplated, and there now are no prospects that the combat strength of the Nation's aerial defenses will be brought up to standard in the near future. Although the Air Corps is 306 pilots short of its requirements, there is little hope “that the shortage will be mate- rially alleviated during 1933 it was reported. New officers received from the Military Academy at West Point and tralned at Army flying schools now are the only new pllots being received in the Regular Army Air €orps and these are not more than sufficient in number to compensate for losses due to death, retirement and resignation. Short of Enlisted Men. There also is a shortage of cnlisted men in the flying setvice, though not 80 acute & shortage as that among com- missioned pllots. The last consolidated personnel report, it was stated, shows the following Air Corps strength: Reg- ular Air Corps officers, 1,293; officers of the Regular service detailed to the Air Corps to undergo flying training, 77; Reserve officers on extended active duty, 303; warrant officers, 27; enlisted men, 12,903, and flying cadets, 301. The Air Corps today consists of the! following larger unifs: First Bom- bardment Wing, March Field, Riverside, Calif.; 19th Bombardmsnt Group, Rock- well Field, San Diego, Calif; Primary and Advanced Flying Schools, Ran- dolph and Kelly Fields, San_Antonio, 20th Pursuit Group, Batrksdale , “Shreveport, La; 3d Aftack Group, Fort Crockett, Galveston, Tex.: Air Corps Tactical 'School, Maxwell Field, Montgomery, Ala.; 12th Observa- tion Group, Brooks Pield, Tex; 1st Pur- suit Group, Selfridge ' Field, Mount Clemens, Mich.; Air Corps Technical School, ‘Chanute Field, Rantoul, IIl; 21st Airship Group, Scott Pield, II; Air Corps Engineering School and Air Corps, Materiel Division, Wright Field, Dayton, Ohio; 2d Bombardment Wing, Langley Feld, Hampton, Va.; 9th Ob- servation Group, Mitchel Field, N. Y., | and 19 National squadrons scattered throughout country. In its possessions the Air Corps has the following major units: Panama, one composite wing, consisting of two ob- sefvation, two pursuil, one bombard- ment and one service squadron and a p\:reult group; Hewaii, one composite wi service, two pursuit and one attack squadrons, and the Philippines, one composite wing of one observation, one bombardment, one pursuit and one service squadron. Five additional pursuit squadrons are to be organized if the provisions of the five-year program are carried out, Shortage of 221 Planes. On the basis of latest returns, which showed approximately 210 planes un- serviceable, either because they were undergoing major repairs or overhaul, there is a shortage of 221 of the 1,800 serviceable airplanes which were the goal of the five-year program, all_in the Regular Army and Reserves, The National Guard squadrons were up to full airplane strength. “Few contracts,” it was reported “have been cohsummated for the cur- rent fiscal yeat as yet, but several new models which have been lately received and which have been given experimen- tal and service tests to determine their suitability have given such promsse that purchase of larger lots from exist- Guard observation the cotiposed of two observation, two | ing appropriations will give the Air Corps a ,umy of equipment that was unhoped for a year ago. Many of these airplanes will be in use in the late Spring and the beginning of the next fiscal year should see most of them used by the various tactical squadrons, with some squadrons completely equip- ped with new models.” Pursuit aviation has been atruqlmt for progress in the development of its tactics to keep pace with the recent advance In bombardment speeds, it was stated. During the past year, it WS rted, “training in observation squadrons reached a higher standard than ever before, so far as the training of the observation crew of pilot and | observer was concerned, due to a well rounded system of training.” Shortage of flying time, however, handicapped | efforts at unit training, it was shown | “Observation aviation,” the report | shows, “has a comparatively Jarge num- | ber of satisfactory models, and the air | service, or ‘eyes of the Army,’ is in better shape than the air force (bom- bardment, pursuit and attack) units.” In bombardment aviation, training | in group and squadron formations has continued to develop greater flexibilty. The 2d Bombardment Group at Lang- ley Field is experimenting with types of formations which allow the best defense against air attack by hostile pursuit and at the same time have offensive value and leave no opening for air attack while the bombers are deploying for their bomb-dropping runs. Kept Abreast of World. ‘The performance of Army aircraft| | has kept abreast of those used by other | | leading powers.” the Air Corps reported. | “Numerically, however, in personnel and | | numbers of tactical airplanes, the air| force component of our Air Crops put {us in fourth place in the air forces of the world.” | The year witnessed not only the ap- | pearance of faster and more efficient Army planes of all styles, but also im: provements in power plants, lubricating oils, aerial navigation, aerial photog- raphy and gunnery and bombing. A new laboratory was completed in which engines can be tested at temperatures as low a8 56 degrees below zero Fahren- heit and with rarified air such as thet found at altitudes up to 30,000 feet, The year was matrked by the taking of the longest range photography ever | made on earth, from a distance of 331.2| miles. This photograph covered the| largest amount of the earth’s surface, 7,200 square miles, ever encompassed in a | single ~photographic exposure. The highest altitude photograph ever made, from an altitude of 39,150 feet, above | Rushville, Ind., also was taken by an Army flyer. More than 48,000 square miles of territory were photographed for mapping purposes for non-military Gov- ernment agencies. A later report is to cover other ac- tivities of the Air Corps during 1932. 'BOMB IMPERILS MOSQUE | AND INJURES TWO MEN | Pedestrian Stumbles Over Explo-| sive Beside Mohammedan Tem- ple at Delhi, India. | By the Associated Press. | DELHI, India, January 7.—A terrific | explosion occurred this moining back | of the famous Jumma Musjid, or Great | | Mosque, oné of the gloriés of India, hen a man stumbled over 2 bomb on | the_ground. |- 'The pedestrain escaped being killed, | but he and another man were in-| jured. | Panic ensued and shopkeepers and | customers fled from the zone. 0 | other bombs were found near the Mo- | hammedan institution. | GUN JAMS, BARS SUICIDE | Virginian Says He Killed Girl for .Causing Him Trouble. PETERSBURG, Va. January 7 (#). | —Hatry Dearing, 32, who yesterday shot and killed Ethel Stocktown, 22, with whom he had been living, told police he committed the act because “she had given me & lot of trouble.” | He sald he had intended a second | bullet* for himself but was unable to carry out his suicide plan when the istol jammed. Police who examined he weapon found it had jammed after | firing thesfirst shot. estate of their father, Jay Gould. SHORT ENLISTMENTS URGED FOR RELIEF Admiral Cluverius Sponsors Plan to Help Unemployed for Four-Month Periods. By the Associated Press. GREAT LAKES, I, January 7— Enlistment of unemployed men in the Navy for four-month periods was sug- gested yesterday by Admiral Wat T. Cluverius, commandant of the Great Lakes Naval Training Station, as & re- lief and rehabilitation measure. Admiral Cluverius ‘said the training station which he commands is ‘“pre- pared to welcome 1500 unemployed young men” for a four-month period of enlistment and training. ‘The Government for $300 or less each could outfit, feed, train and house them and pay a small salary in addition, he said. t the end of the period they would be ‘“returhed to civil life good citizens, with the rudiments of a trade and money in their pockets. ‘The commandant displayed telegrams from Secretary of the Navy Charles Francis Adams and Admiral Frank B. Upham, chief of the Bureau of Nav: gation, approving the plan. - Senator Couzens of Michigan, he said, was “enthusiastic” about it and would sponsor a bill in Congress to author- | ize it. $15,054,627 ASSETS OF LATE GEORGE GOULD | | Wife Left Bulk of Property, Tax Appraisal Shows—$400,000,- 000 Claims Settled. By the Associated Press. NEW YORK, January 7.—George Jay Gould, finaneier, who died May 16, 1923, | & resident of Lakewood, N. J,, left gross ashets of $15,054,627, a trapsfer tax ap- | praisal filed yesterday disclosed. | ‘The bulk of the estate wint to his widow, Mrs. Guinevere Sinclsir Gould-‘ Dunsford of Kent, Englatd, wnd the balance to 10 childreh. The appraisal showed contested claims against the estate totaling $400,- 000,000 and a debt item of $7,135,350 was the amount of & settlement of these contested claim8 This debt item grew out of litigation invelved in misman- agement charges against Gould and three other children,~executors of the THRE . e i TREASURY BOOKS OPENED TO EDITOR BY COURT Louisiana Officials Directed $o Pere wit Inspection of Fund Records, By the Associated Press. BATON ROUGE, Jan T— Alternative writs of ml“, fllmlflm ing State Treasurer J, 8. Cave and his aseistant, A. L. Jun to permit Ber- nard L. Krebs, man: editor of the New Orleans Times-Picayune, to inspect certain treasury records which Krebs said Cave and Junod refused to allow him to examine, were signed yesterd: by Judge George K. vrot in Baton Rouge District Court. ‘The New Crleans editor said in his gttltl.on l;!hl! "h! cllle;i fl:‘ ‘Tréasuref ave's office January inspect tl State fund book, the sundfy ledger ra disbursements and the record of all balances carried in various State funds for the year ending December 31, 1992, and that permission for examination | was refused. Visit Roosevelt's Grave. OYSTER BAY, N. Y, January 7 (#). —Postmaster General Walter F. Brown placed a wreath on the grave of dore Roosevelt yesterday, commemorat- |ing the fourteenth anniversary of his |death. Among those who accompaniéd him were Mrs. Roger W. Straus, Albert Bushnell Hart and William Loeb, former secretary to the late President Strictly GENUINE Amer] materials ustd with all waves. ¢ 815,00 OUl perm condjtioning ray MR alferent ‘trea ment for various condi- tions of hair.) Now Comblete with marcel top and zinglet ends. w reduced to.. .. Complete with $1.56 reco i I Iy Call DIst. 9718 ack’s Permanent Wave Shop 1320-22 F St. N.W. §r4, Mloor Front—saite JuLius F StreET AT We<«Have Just A Number of Jge-338 between Reeals Fentane Garrinexker & Co. FourteenTi Had Finished Very Beautiful HUDSON SEAL COATS (dyed muskrat) Made,According to Our Own Special Design and Most Excellent in Every Way WE ARE OFFERING THEM AT THE VERY SPECM PRICE, WHICH IS MUCH UNDER THEIR REGULAR VALUE, OF $150.00 If we do not have one in your size in stock, one will be made for you, if the size is = not larger thah a 44, without extra charge. gy Rouff. Marcel Rochas, Lus Paray. dresses and coats in wearable woolens | are a reflection of the changed condi- tions under which we are living today. | And the whole essence of style is ap- propriateness, a reflection in dress of | being the opposite from what was worn | | last year, is one way of marking your hat as a more recent creation. Open- work models have much variety. | from her when the stock market drops. She knows she has an advantage over many more well-to-do than herself, something that is in her very blood and PARIS, December 31. ERTAIN hotels remain the best SEMI-ANNUAL fashion thermometers in Paris during the Winter, and whether at luncheon, tea or dinner, you are sure to find the highest standard of smartness. Most interesting for all-round pur- poses are the teatime observations, for at luncheon the dresses are all of one Beneral type, while in the evening they are all rather formal; whefeas in the tea hall you will find all kinds of dresses and many surprises. Here will be fashionable Parisians taking an hour from shopping, or the accustomed pri- vate tea, to see what other women are wearing: or a wealthy countess in from her chateau on the banks of the Loire just for the afternoon; or the suburban resident from Versallles, St. Cloud or Fontainebleau. The lady to your left may be a countess, a great singer, a nouveau-riche Americaine, a South American heiress, or just a lucky and designing cocotte. This style show is batter than any defile of mannequins in a maison de couture, for here are not clothes that are being offered and may never be worn outside the shop where they were made, but actual dresses on the back: of important women, being worn, play ing their part in the that magic thing c The_style-consciousness Is so acute here that an ill-dressed woman knows before she gets across You are as much observed and as eritically when you come through this dignified door as s the leading lady of & successful play coming onto the stage. Melba used to =it here for hours and affirm: Paris.” * % o* OU are first struck by the signifi- cance of sleeves on dressss. Mo women keep their coats on through t tea-hour, but if these are removd you ar sure to find an unbelievable variety of sleeves, nothing else seemingly im- portant. Then what a quantity of short coats are being worn—short coats of all shapes in fine flat furs that match the turbans. Turban hats invariably match the coats, or at any rate the scarfs OF capes or capelets. Caracul, astra- khan, shaved lamb; in short, all the flat furs are in vogue, but black, brown and gray predominate, although I have seen some striking turban and scarf en- sembles in ermine and white rabbit worn at tea-time. Woolen coats are in no danger of losing their favor, and continue to be most stylish. There are numerous new Rodier woolens of novel weaves that make coats look new, although the fun- damental line may not be changed Black 15 most often seen as a color for coats, and it is obvious that cou- turiers have worked infinitely hard to schieve new effects through the use of black in fresh ways. The flat fur col- lars may be as thin as velvet, and in. stead of going all the way round the neck, or around the back of the neck, these are given & new aspect by being * just on one side, so that a col- | becomes, in fact, only a third or fourth of a collar. There are little tabs of flat fur, making a sort of jabot; fur epaulettes, strikingly effective; nare yow fur bands around the sleeves where are wide above the elbow, fur to gloves that turn back into a , fur scarfs, fur cravats, fur hand- and muffs. The turban of fur ted to one or more of these ac- | les. Many very Parisian ensem- tching fur turban and cape- m. the threshold | that she is out of place and turns back. | “It's by far the best show in | | These may show but one or two inches | jof hair or more. One mecdel I saw | seemed, when viewed from directly in {front, to be a substantial hat, for a | biack fur bow looked imposing; but seen from the sides or behind, this was the chief part of the creation, which | was orly a basketwork, coarse hair- |net of the narrowest bands, with square | spaces, two square inches gaping be- | tween, and the wearer's hair, of course, | perfectly visible and practically un- covered. If your sleeves are individual enough. wnd ‘bear marks of having received | special attention, your dress will be | all right, no matter what its color or | fabric, and if your coat and turban are | at least visible first cousins, the fash- | fonableness of these, too, need cause you | no anxiety. A little fur, used artfully | and with character, is the keynote of | a Winter mode that is both practical | and lovely. Many of the best dressed | ladies are wearing fur-accessory en- | sembles made out of old coats, but this | does not lessen their loveliness. In- | deed, this possibility of converting use- | less garments into wearable ones may | very well be the reason, in these times when ingenuity must strive to keep up | appearances on reduced resources, for | the introduction of this mode. | OME have no collars at the back, but tiny turnover lapels in the front: some are simply scarfed: others show a sharp V in the front; still others are in zizzags or triangular points—this is the story of the necklines of the new French dresses. Let the collar of the dress be visible above the neckline of the coat and have both ccats and dresses tightly fitted. | This seems to be an invariable rule with French designers in making the new clothes for Spring. The tendency to cut coats with lower | I necklines is another noteworthy point in the latest Parisian creations. | Lanvin demonstrates another inter- esting fashion feature in one of the col- | Jarless shoulder capes of fur; tied with wide scarfs that may be in plain colors, simply stitched, or in gayly plaided silks. *oxox o | (GUOSELY fitted is Lanvin's line, espe- cially in coats of extreme simplicity. This simple line also is an important | one with other dressmakers. in this effect wraps around and buttons at the back. A one-plece fitted dress by Lanvin is typical of an entire series, which is | varied only in small details. The sharp | V neck is a favorite with this designer and the huge pocket is an interesting The skirt is of ankle length. Mainbocher’s new type of Spring coat is fitted and very simple, with the low bateau neckline revealing the collar of the dress. othet means of disclosing the material of the dress beneath, as in a coat of black wool worn over a dress of maro- x?#cfiflzw? S:r bhck.mvmu and red 0 feature an m. c~ | lnLol the stripes. Loy ige, black and prints, espe- cially in stripes, are favored. A new type of coat by Mainbocher, with the neckline cut low in both hont,nd back, S_trlelng Né;klines 7Seen In New French Clothes; One coat | The shortened sieeve i8 an- | prevailing conditions, It is bad taste to go to an informal affair in formal clothes. One is criticized for being overdressed, or clothed in excess of the requirements of the occasion. This is just as true pf the woman whose ward- Tobe reflects a false prosperity. Today the elaborately dressed woman is not fashionable. You may say that for a rich woman to dress richly is reflecting her own condition, but this is no answer to my argument. ‘That styles reflect an in- dividual state is insufficient; they must reflect the existing trends that touch the lives of everybody. It would be little short of vulgar mockery for a rich woman to exploit general depression for making her wealth conspicuous; now is the time of all times when women with taste show it. Any woman with money can load herself down with finery, with | costly fabrics and elaborate details; but the test of innate smartness is when money is lacking and a woman can maintain her chic reputation despite this embarrassing fact. * ok ok % MANY who used to have big incomes others, too, who had relatively little, were known as smart dressers; enjoyed the same reputation. Now that | money 1s scarce, it is interesting to s2e has fox fur lying flat across the back and over the shoulders. The small col- lar of the accompanying dfess, which is | of rose-beige silk, is visible above the | | neckline of the coat in the back as well |as in the front. Gored sections, ru | ning from the armholes to the side belts, enhance the slim effect. Brilliant con- | trast is effected by an orange-colored belt on the dress. | * o kx | NEW heavy black marocain, with a satin back, is used by Molyneux in | the series of afternoon gowns which he | calls “cinema dresses” The two sides of the silk, both the dull and shiny, are used with good effect. A shoulder-knot of velvet, black, white and flame color, gives an air of dressiness to a simply vet excellently cut dress, its long lines accentuated by the skirt being carried up into the bodice. Costume jewelry continues in favor, valued by many of the designers b cause of its color or design, which may be used to complete an ensemble idea. Bronze and copper in the new pinky shades of chrome have Yaken. the place of nickeled effects. A popular design lying flat against the neck, or a string of hollow half marbles, sometimes graduated, sometimes all of a size, and | usually In copper tones. In the pinky | metal there are some heavy flattened | chains mace to lie flat against the neck. Composition jewelry in various colors may be used with good effect to com- plete costume color schemes, as in neck- laces made of colored beads the size of spools. Another interest- made of innumerable strands of heavy beads the size of a pinhead, in rich brown, Jeaf green, gentian blue and dull corsl. These are held by & single metal ! clasp, S M C for costume jewelry is a string of disks | and shape ing type of necklace is the huge rope | inseparable from her. She is always pleasantly occupied. She sees a hundred times more in a piece of cloth or a dozen buttons or a new color than do other women. The possibilities of ma- terials occur to her instinctively, and she cannot see a piece of cloth without | having a flock of ideas &s to how it could be most effectively used. New coats are full of ideas and these | are rather fur-trimmed than of fur throughout, except for evening. The mode no to wear a fur-trimmed coat with a tiny hat of the same fur, but still more effective is the untrimmed woolen coat, worn with fur accessories. If there is a set of fur accompaniments to be worn with the coat, these are separate and can be worn with other | coats, og in the case of the sets includ- | Ing capelets, worn in mild weather over | any dress. ¥ e LITTLE fur goes a long way now. There is a coat trimmed in fur but- tons and this is the only fur used; still the model is fur-trimmed and has that unmistakable Wintry touch as well as the trimmed note only fur can impart. Another coat has one lapel in fur, while still another has fur ecpaulettes. Fur vests are smart, and these may be worn as part of the dress and seen through the open coat as if they actually were a part of the outer garment. Any new | way that fur can be used without en- cumbering a coat, that is, losing its flat and plastic effect, is to be admired. One woman, strange though you will find her taste, has had fur earrings made, heavy-looking balls of fur that give the finishing touch needed to bring t the dark lights in her lustrous hair and eyes. She is just the iype of wom- an to wear these, and they match the lu;?t\n. of which they appear to be a pa; Fur-cuffed gloves are seen as & com- plement to untrimmed coats, too. The trimming for a plain woolen coat, then, | is achieved through the new use of a little fur in the accessories. Black, dark | navy blue and green are some of the | shades in which we are making such coats. Green of a deep shade, also | somber purple and the reds and browns | related to rust, are equally in vogue. If you have an individual idea for | dressing in a particularly personal way, | now is the time to give it expression. A | piece of flat fur and a thought all your own are what you need for making a contribution to fashion. Everything that has ever been fashlonable began in th's | way, by first being worn by one person | who believed in it and had the courage of his or her belief. Little ideas like this give character to the new coats in serviceable woolens that are now being worn in such quantities in Paris. (Copyright. 1933.) Scotch Short Bread. Mix together one pound of white flour |and half a pound of butter. Stir in | one-fourth pound of sugar and the yolk | of one egg. Work with the hands until SUiff. Cut in two portions. Sugar the | board instead of flouring it and mold the dough, pinching the edge like pas- try. Prick 'with a fork to prévent its rising in blisters. Mark it before bak- ing and break it when serving. P"‘,K“ ';ai(‘n m»lxn a round tin, ungreas =d, ahd ¢ & long time in a very slow oven. and is solf = REGULAR STYLES \ *440, 500 'NORMAL SHOE CO., Inc. Home of Enna Jettick Shoes for Women 1337 F St. N.W, *YOU NEED NO LONGER BE TOLD THAT YOU HAVE AN EXPEN<