Evening Star Newspaper, November 8, 1931, Page 53

. ® { Clothes of the TFrim Fitted Ones Typify Modern Dress— Mathematical Precision Expressed in Cut of Clothes—Chinese Yellow, Red and Green. essential requirements of mod- ern dress. The Fall sesson had not advanced many paces when designers cof fanciful clothes found that the current was too strong | to swim against when they tried to| yescue old styles and breathe new life | into them. The current was modern | life. Long, ‘sleck lines are the lines of the | typleal 1931 silhouette, The clothes of | today are clothes that fit; they fit th!f figure: they fit our times. They are as clean-cut as the architecture of the | Empire State Building. Delving into | old fashion themes, as was done this | Autumn in creating some of the styles for this season, has not proved effectual. | Old styles cannot be resurrected and set into modern life, any more than | the old brown-stone type of house can | find a place in Radio City. Dress must be an expri on of the times in which it is worn. So we find that the trim silhouette is the expression of the life | of today. * ok % ¥ REATING fashions and manufac- turing women's clothes are among the greatest and most progressive in- dustries of our time; therefore, succes ful dress must be modern. Reviewing fashion history, it s in- teresting to observe how much of it pertains to the bouffant silhouette and in comparison to note the sleek, trim outline of today. Clothes worn on the stage in the modern crama or comedy of every-day life are in no way theatrical, but the reflection of the best styles of the day, what any well dressed woman would wear in private life. { Among the most beautiful clothes ap- pearing in any theatrical production so | far this Fall are those worn by Miss | Vera Allen in “Lean Harvest”” The | harvest of worth-while fashions has | been pretty lean in the theater of late, Coat-Dresses Emphasized in Molyneux Collection PARIS, October 29. | APT. MOLYNEUX started off the midseason with a showing of a hundred new model particularly interesting because | of the emphasis he put on coat-dresses, dresses Wwith silk tops, | short-sleeved formal afternoon dress and two-color combinations and also | becalise of the frequency with which | his new hats were tilted over the left dnstead of the right eye, rather a wel- | come relief from the uniformity with | which the new hats have been worn, | guggesting true variety and a thought pf the individual silhouette. | The new coat-dresses are true to| their name, being intended for street wear without the necessity of a wrap or even a scarf. They are made of yather heavy woolens, either in plain, shades or with an indefinite mixture, without & suggestion of a straight pat- ern. The waistline is marked by a nar- yow belt and the blouses are almost | classic in their simplicity, with the| only variety in the sleeves, which vary | from the tailored straight sleeve to amusing fullness at the elbow, below or above, but always in rather tailored effects. The fur collars are ide, straight, high effects, which, when fastened close to the throat, give the impression of coat collars, marking these new coat-dresses as a definitely different type of dress from any we have seen. Hips are snugly fitted and the fullness is gained by pleats at the side or front, giving a definitely flat effect in the back. Short-coat_ensembles of wool often mre in the mixed effects which are pre- ferred at this house, the jackets but- toning_soberly down from the straight fur collar and sometimes ending in a snug band that comes over the hio- bone, with a restsained blousing and the effect of a slightly lowered waist- line, particularly in the back. ‘The| skirts have either a yoke and matching | blouse of crepe de chine or a dress top | of the crepe de chine, adding slender- ness to the silhouette and making the Shoes Following | Trend in Dress| HOES have become highly specialized this Fall, asserting themselves, if fou please, as much as to say they will ot be outdone by all this “Empress | Eugenie” fluster the hats have treated. B0, more than ever we see shoes des- ined to be called distinct types Here are a few of the most outstand- | #ng ones that caught the eye about| town. FPirst and foremost—because it| $5 the most important fashion in clothes | +—are the smartly tailored shoes created | ¥or the light-weight woolens. In this group you may have your choice of be- dng smartly tailored—debonair, I be- Reve, is the best name for it—and trot, #rot, trot in & most sanely sensible but | chic pair of high-cut oxfords in a com- bination of suede and alligator. Or, wou may don with that new derby hat the smartest combination of the sea- | son—an opera pump of black or brown | pin seal with the classic wing tip and trim of matching calf. Or you may b> proverbially feminine and daintily tread the highways and byways in a high- theeled one-eyelet tie of suede with pat- ent-leathe ide inlays effecrive | white pip eYou may ‘wear th's dressler tyy ason because meny of these ne ns arc indeed gmost like a si n in cuf Among the real actual dre-aer types, e predominates as to leather. | ere are any number of dainty high-| heeled models. many with strap effects. | fThe newest trimming detail 1 have no- | ticed was a fine leather lacing effect of | tent leather, the design often form- | g open-work motifs. | There is a glorious array of evening eandals about to appear. The most promising and elegant are those of gold and silver. Not the old gold and sil kid things we know of ages back, but something_ new has appeared in the from of finely woven silver and gold meshwork. This is used as delicar> wlavs in sandal designs in combina with matching kid The tea gown is of velvet in the lovely shade known as Chinese yellow. Brown slippers, with silver heels and silver trim- Mainbacher, is of wine-colored velvet, with grapes at the waistline provides a c mings, are worn with this costume. an unlined shoulder cape. EAUTY of line and color are the ' | brown silk sandals with silver heels and | the collection, it in no way takes the { brown in the darker The suit jumper, a brown felt hat trimmed with yellow, red and brown quills, 80 to the eplcure theése clothes are a | feast. R S the play gocs on and the heroine marries a human dynamo who is able to produce gold continuously, her costumes become more beautiful’ and more sophisticated, and it is interesting to observe how the impression is achieved entirely through line, color | and fabric, never through ornamenta- fon. The silhouette throughout is the one that molds the figure—the statu- esque outline. Colors that are given prominence are red, purple, green and brown, with one | black costume in just about the propor- tion that New Yorkers are taking their colors this season. | Favorite colors of the new season are well expressed in a Chinese yeliow gown; an evening dress of deep Wine | color, with shawl scarf to match, even the little wrap depending for its chic on cut rather than any trimming; in the red wool crepe street dress, Worn with a brown hat and brown shoes. and in the silk crepe frock of Patou green, | in which the ultra-modern heroine ex counters her future husband on the | platform of a London underground sta- tion. * % Xk *x BROWN s zeserved for accessories and various accents to cress. Espe- cially attractive are the shoes, chosen to accent the yellow tea gown, which are novel strappings of silver kid. We all know that dresses of black | wool are very smart. There is a black wool dress chesen by Miss Allen with a | trimming motif of white and black pat- | ent leather. A small black felt tricorne | hat, also trimmed with patent leather, is worn with this dress, and the cos- tume is completed with black patent leather pumps and white gloves. This dress shows a capricious revival of an old fashion, the puffed sleeve. dresses practical for indoor as well as| street wear. ‘While there is still much green in predominant place it occupled in the August collection, surrendering that to| black. There is also a good deal of shades and a | number of brown mixtures. Afternoon | dresses and ensemples often have an exceedingly short sleeve, reaching only half way to the elbow. A new variety of bagheera velvet is prominent for this type of dress. It is finer in weave than the first #f thewe new velvets and does not, we are told, have the unfortunate tendency to pull, which marked the earlier efforts in this mat velvet. A new movement in both afternoons and evening clothes is the insertion of fan-pleated godets at various levele to give fullness in what would otherwise be a sheath garment. Several two- tlered skirts were especially charming with this detail. A black princess model which had cleverly inserted godets from the hip down, marked by stiffening, and a flame-colored georgette vied with | the light hyacinth blues and the in- | credibly lovely shade of lavender which | seems unique to the house, D. L. M. !4 olorful trimming note. . The evening gown, de s of orange, red and beige ned by homespun. Copper Dishes On Yellow Cloth rpHE shops are always full of sugges- |4 tions f or making the table gractive. The foundation of ‘this attractiveness 45 “‘the linen. There are some lovely pew things this season in tablecloths. *They come, in linen damask, in all colors—yellow and blue, rose and lav- jendar, green and beige and gray, | one very attrastive dinner cloth is woven of black and wkite, so that it bas a gray background, with white and black designs. On this c'oth sllver can- dlesticks and coiorless glass and crystal are used with undecorated white china or black and white china and black lass. 4 On a table spread with a soft, dull yellow cloth a most interesting eflect is produced by the use of r can- dlesticks, flower bowl &) ‘bonbon dishes. These copper dishés are new, not overly -mnw::. and very smart. & flower in a most attractive way. brown gloves and brown shoes. THE SUNDAY STAR. WASHINGTON, 55 D. Sar C., NOVEMBER_8, A dress of black wool, with interesting puff sleeves, is trimmed with black and white patent leather. The costumes sketched on this page are worn by Vera Allen, in “Lean Harvest. | | A garland of orange and brown It is worn with a brown cashmere A set of them would be an excellent choice for a w-dding present this Au- tumn—and yellow of any sort w them. Evening Dress Tabs. Some of the new evening dresses are made with tabs at the shoulders and belt. Little rounded ends that pull through a buckle or ring or fasten wil Distinguish HE midseason collection of Callot Soeurs gives an effect of greater simplicity than the preceding showing.” Skirts are much less | full than formerly, and bias cut- | ting plays an important role throughout, | giving the width necessary for walking, | in skirts fitted very snugly around the hips and preserving almest a straigh line effect. The waist lines are marked | much less definitely than the hips, and there are some half-belts. In certain | evening dresses there is a tendency to place this half-belt somewhat higher, almost in empire lines, though in reality | the sithouette !5 princess, with the belt | only an ornamentation to break the| line. Skirt lengths for daytime dresses | remain about the same, 12 inches from | the floor, while evening gowns come to the ankle in front and usually have a train at the side or back, There are several models in leather including a green leather suit, with mustard colored wool used for the coat | lining, the blouse and pocket trimming | on the skirt. The blouse is trimmed with the leather. * x k % A NOTHER interesting ensemble has a black and white checked coat with a pelerine buttoning over the right | shoulder. The dress. of black crepe de chine trimmed with red, has elbow- | length sleeves, as well as separate sleeves covering the lower arm and forming mittens. The same double-slceve idea is used in a dinner dress of black | lace, the independent sleeves finished with a band of black velvet and having | a frill on the outer seam, The belt of | | this dress 1s of gold Jame wrapped with | | black velvet, the latter material being | also used to bind the bottom of the f;hn;t slip, shorter in front than in the ack. A black woolen dress has large y menterie frogs of white braid in fr The front of the skirt is slit its entire length to show white trouserlike paj mas over which the dress is worn Many dresses with both short jackets and long coats have their tops and sleeves of contrasting material, em- Line S]mplicit} z;nd Bi;ts Cut Callot Creations phasizing the diagonal cut that is so prominent throv:ghout the collection, * K X K QOME of the full-length coats are fur | lined. Other long coats have mod- erate fullness at the sides and large rever collars, and are without fur, sep- arate scarfs being worn with them. Slceves of all coats are widened at the | clbow. : Several elaborate afternoon dresses, are cut to the usual day length, 12 inches from the floor, and are of crepe | de chine, incrusted with lace at the neck, sleeves and the back of the bodice, | For informal dinner wear there is a series of lame tunics, cut in points back nlx(’ld front, and worn with black satin skirts. A new decolletage is rather high in the back as well as in the front, with the deep cut under the arms reaching almost to the waist line. Such dresses are frequently accompanied by little coats, as in a soft peach broadcloth with lace jacket. For both evening and formal afternoon wear strass buckles are a popular trimming note, SWG MATERIALS include fine wools in diagonal and crepey weaves for morning dresses and suits; silk serge, plain and printed, sometimes in tweed patterns; crepe de chine, combined as noted. with lace for afternoon and cock- tail dresses. These frocks often have accompanying coats of the same ma- terial. Evening clothes use crepe satin, often employed on both the bright and dull sides of the satin; lace. broadsloth, | mousseline and lame cleverly combined | both with velvet and satin. Black has the most prominent place for daytime, with considerable green, | baige. royal blue and brown, while pink, | turquoise, violet and shaded tones of | gray are evening favorites. | An unusual ensemble has a coat of light gray wool trimmed with brown astrakhan. and a dress of dark brown crepe roma with the yoke, sleeve caps and band at the bottom of gray lace. Quaintness Part Of New Mode EING well dressed in 1926 or 1927 or thereabouts was one thing. Be- ling well drecsed in_ 1031 15 | another proposition. With the s | feshions "that prevailed for so many | years after the war it was a far simpler matter to sele~t dresses and hats and accessories of thé right sort and a very much easier matter to wear them than it is now that the so-called more femi- | nine fashions have returned to favor. | Then all you had to do was to be strictly up to date, now you must be| up to date, of course, but 2 little out | of date besides in order to give your costume the suggestion of quaintness | that is approved. Youw must of course be thoroughly twentieth eentury, but in order to achieve the look of mod- |ernity approved, for the Autumn and Winter of 1931 dnd 1932 you must also look just a little nineteenth century be- ' | sides. Fortunately the dressmakers have | given us a wide variety of styles from | wiifeh to choose. Fortunately, because | the wide variety makes it possible for | e and orarg> flOWerS |every cne to find some sfort of dress Suits d 1ook specially well in and hat and wrap that is becoming. | boutonnieres. There are, however, certain disadvan- | tages ‘in this wide latitude of choice. | | One of the smart new accessorios | that would be all out of place with some | | clothes and absolutely right with others | |is the reticule, a lovely handbag from Paris, designed speeially to wear with clothes of the Empress Eugenie or Vic- torfan inspiration. It is made of the th | finest suede and is n altogether attrac- tive little bag. Importance Given Muffs at Wedding I)ARTICULAR fashion interest was | naturally attracted to the wedaing of Mlle. Helen Worth, early in October, to M. J. Iscovesco, since every one | wished to see the new mode created for her by her father, Jacques Worth. And the interest was more than rewarded. The bride’s dress was of cream crepe satin, the skirt, ornamented almost to the hips with narrow ruffles, sweeping inte a train, with all the fullness held to the back. Her vell of white tulle was held by a snug cap of seed pearls and, instead of the conventional bou- quet, she carried a muff of orange blossoms. Her attendants, all small cousins, wore !ull»lenfih period dresses of silk organdie with crinoline skirts, short Eton jackets of matching silk faille, and severe little pill-box hats, banded at the lower edge, and with flat black stream- ers. They carried muffs of pink organ- die ornamented with rows of artis flowers 2nd tiny flower-trimmed cornu- copias of organdie for the offering to the poor. The little boys wore dress of black broadcloth with pink The bride’s mother wore beige lace with tiny touches of emerald green, and also carried a muff. Muffs were prominent in the cos- tumes of the guests, as well as those of the family party. A pelerine of white ermine and a small barrel muff com- pleted a black faille outfit with a small velvet hat. A powder-blue georgette, with a short hip-length jacket of 1931 | the velvet, PART, THREE. | five-strand pearl necklaces to wear with | Jewelry for BY MARY MARSHALL. EWELRY comes and jewelry goes, | and each year there are same- nesses and differences. Some women wear jewelrv as they | have, more or lec regardless of | the changing mode. Somre women are | constantly asking fashion questions | about this detail and that. } “Are necklace and bracelet worn to- ether?” is one question. Sometimes. ut sometimes a smarter effect can be gained by wearing one without the other. “‘Are pearls still in fashion?” is an- other perennial question from readers, | and the perennicl answer seems to be | “Yes.” Pearls manage to remain in | good repute, though, of course, the very large pearis are not often seen, and pearls of any sort are better with an | evening dress or formal afternoon dress | than with a suit or daytime dress. * N | MANY of the new pearl necklaces | are made with three strands joined in the clasp at the back, in graduated | lengths at the front. There are also | a deep decolletage and there are other | pear]l necklaces s owing the combina- tion of two threr strand arrangements, while the space between the two strands of three is scmewhat wider than the space between the strands in each | group. | The three-strand idea is also carried | out in more substantial necklaces for daytime wear Carved wooden beads to wear with the cloth suit or cress are arranged in three strands of graduated length. There are short three-strand fver with gold between. Theater Stress Importance of Color and Line New Dress Pearls Are Smaller in New Chains—Three Strands Found in Many New Necklaces. Gold for Daytime Wear. necklaces of gold and silver beads—two strands_of gold beads with a silver tranc vetween, or two strands of sil- Sometimes wood and gold are used together, eithe™ in a single or three-strand type of necklace. B Simple gold jewelry is often chosen for the cloth daytime dress. The beads or links are sometimes interestingly de- signed. They are fairly heavy, but not 50 heavy as to appear barbaric. The more elaborate sort of filigree gold work is chosen to go with the formal evening or afternoon dress. To wear with black velvet, either for afternoon or evening, there are necklaces showing a combina- tion of gold and onyx, sometimes com- bined with pearls, TR BRACELm’s accompany some of the new necklaces. And it is a good | rule to follow to wear bracelets to match your necklace or else bracelets without a necklace. With an evening or after- noon cress of pronounced Victorian suggestion matching bracelets are some- times worn, che on either wrist.- Plain . metal or composition is sometimes worn in profusion—as many as seven on one arm, and the newest idea is to wear them on both arms. The new sleeves that are made with a puff above the elbow and close-fitted cuffs below may . be worn with these hoops or bangles, and sometimes the long. close-fitting cuff i8 worn with a single bangle brace- let at each wrist. For bracelets this season may be worn either on bare |arms or with long sleeves, providing they do not interfere with the line or trimming of the sleeve. Painted Walls For Background| 0110! upon a time you might have felt a distinct prejudice about having the walls of your living room covered with ofl-mixed paint. Nowa- days that sort of finish is often effec- tively used. Painted walls can now be finished so that the colors are soft and glowing, rather than harsh and shiny. And that makes all the difference in the world. Cream or gray or che of the yellower shades is perhaps the most effective color for ofl-painted walls, though various shades of green are also effective, and are used now that green is again in high favor for an in- | terior color. Decorators use green in one of its many lovely shades for win- dow curtains and other draperies as well as for walls. For the nursery a painted wall with a stenciled border of animals is very attractive. The oil-paint finish can, of course, be washed without injury, and so is especially suitable for a child’s room. ‘The new wall papers this year are more attractive than ever, so if you don't want your walls flat-finish paint, you can have them charmingly done in papers. Many of the papers have & sort of checked background, sometimes | cuggested by faded and indistinctly broken lines, scmetimes suggested by stiff little flowers, scmetimes quite bla- | tantly marked out in heavier design. In the squares between these crossing Yines there is a floral design. Velvet Berets And Turbans TURBANB. tams and berets, those fa- vorites of the women who cannot live without the casual, comfortable hat, have feturned to their former impor- tant place in the millinery world. Last August they vanished for a short riod, while the very important look- ing hat, bedecked with flowers and feathers, made its entrance into the fashion world—a hat o important look- ing that it usually ec! wnhe acoom- pany!xla]g €ress and frequently its wearer - as_well. r But since the interest of fachion so - often centers in the mere contrast be- tween one mode and another, the Flor- s entine hat, at present in the center of the fashion stage, gains added im) tance through it5 wide yariance from the Empress Bugenie models of blessed - memory. Some of them are just the- berets we have been devoted to for so long, with a bit more fullness to mark - them as new. Some of them have a. more generous sweep of line, which makes the problem of finding the be- coming hat & simple one for every woman. ‘Today's hat, even for important ocea- sions, 1S indeed the same casual shaped affair we have had for several seasohs. ‘Thé chief differcnce between it and the formal hat of last season is a matter of material and the angle of its wearing. Even the ubiquitous beret is tilted at a new angle, and very often it is made of velvet to accompany the afternoon dress of satin, velvet or lace. Twists and folds, small brims and cuff effects vary the hat silhouette and give the . small, cap-like crowns the necessary variety and dash to make them suit- able, in one version or another, for every woman and for every occasion. For the woman who cannot or will not. wear the soft, crushable hat there are brimmed models with square crowns, with eap or melop-shaped crowns that break their hig ines by folds and twists of self-CSged or contrasting velvet, and hats 1 tricorne or bicorne - effect, always very flattering to the - matron. At the moment the black velvet hat i is the most popular, since velvet is one of the most flattering of fabrics; but there is a bright sprinkling of the rich - jewel shades, both for daytime and.: evening, with reds, browns, rust, purple, bluss and beiges for the hats which ac- company the tea-time dresses which appecr on the street in the late afters - noon hours. On the velvet hat gold and silver fancies, crystal or feathers often make - their appearance. Another method of - trimming, especially popular for the turban, is the fold of metal cloth which is draped in with the velvet to provide a bright spot of color on the very for- mal hat. If you still cling fondly to the felt hat, remember that it is unequaled in smartness for daytime wear, and that it may be made as modern as next week, and formal in character as well by the discreet adzition of velvet ribbons, kn bows, cuts, folds or shirrings. R White Dogs A CHARMING design always for the « baby's clothes is & nice little dog. - In some of the new street costumes for babies, consisting of padded crepe de” chine coats, there are tiny dogs cut® from white crepe de chine and ap- pliqued on the blue or pihk coats. s Little jersey costumes for the toddling child show white dogs sewed flat on the pink or blue background of the tiny pull-on blouse that goes with shorts or pleated skirt. 4 B Buttons on Gloves 1G pear! buttons, globular ones, dec- orate the backs of rome of the new kid gloves. They have no sense at all in their appearance—it is purely deco- . rative. Three or four of them in a row « at the back of the wrist of the glove. 3 Onyx Necklace ONYX is interestingly fashioned into some of the smartest, most strik- ing necklaces. It is cut and polished in small rectangular slabs, which are con- nected with decorative metal links, to seineenn | make a stiff but flexible bracelet of V!“k and gold. The evening gown was designed by Schiaparelli, of heavy white crepe, and is worn with a short wrap of white ostrich feathers. A large jeweled brooch, bracelets and earrings add a note of brilliance. A dwess of scarlet wool crepe, in a new weave that closely resembles crepe marocain, It-is trimmed with an appliqued bow of flat crepe. The hat is of velust and felt in two shades of brown. T he dress, designed by Patou, is of green flat crepe, worn reen felt hat trimmed with brown feathers. with a blue fflxflm\l | the ¢ress, was marked by a muff of | An_emerald-green velvet | costume with a short jacket was com- pléted by a black taupe hat and collar | and muff of black asirakhan. A suit of dull corduroy-striped black wool had | the tiniest of ermine bands on the nar- | row turnover collar, and at the wrists was a diminutive batrel muff of the same fur, Theére was & surprising amount of ‘wine red -mo;: the Euuu, and not only brighter blue velvet and a hat to match for entire , but in velvet hats, as the xeuev!ix?e:wt: for black cos- tumes. A number of hats had the high, stral ght feathers which stood up from ;,l:mh lc‘kngr ;‘Feh r.fuli{le hats fully six ches, which milliners insist & a revival of the kigh hat. e Mme. Jeah Charles Worth was in gray, with & short wrap of velvet in a darker smoke tone. . Police in: rural districts of England are searching for ln:znd!me: who have bee& ):l;nunh g !kl)d' nues" in haystacks 50 that they coul a get away before the Smart Knicknacks. A stitched felt hat matches a stitched - felt_handbag. £ This two-piece set is mcst attractive, - and gives a sMartness to the costume with othl it 18 carried that is the very Wl last word. of the new fur scarfs fasten a one end th h a slit in %—‘muw madwfl the f the t, the {hfown chrsiesty over the snouser,