Evening Star Newspaper, September 27, 1931, Page 39

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, SEPTE)[BER. 97, 1931—PART THREE. ; L R e e -Md Panniers Are Shown in Autumn CI Removable Fur Trimming 8 . Fashion Cable - .. In Winter Collections p{ ¥ [REOPENING,of Longehampn marke by ARty | il either in brown or black, cut almost straight, and many dark green h ensembles with jackets or three-quarter-length coats. Three-quarter-length Short Fur Jackets, Fur Scarfs and Muffs| N s s N T Featured—Ski Costumes Interesting. Short black astrakhan bolero with sleeves worn over black broadcloth, with diamond incrustations of the material at the bottom. A biack satin Color Contrast in All Types. broadcloth full-length coat, buttoned all the way down the center front, had pelerine of breitschwanz fastened at the throat with passementerie Irmmfl“lfil in tweed, wrdunx and nubby wools had short jackets, often wit t fur. One, with both skirt and jacket worked in gores, had a searf has been rated by American | coats, are definitely cut in at the waist- ol el 3 a double turnes , uses a8 one of the most|line, while retaining all the individu- both brims as rolled band across the back. Many velvet hats worn. importers successful in Paris. ality of the characteristic line expect- Furs occupy the center of in- | ed here. terest throughout the collection and are | ¥ o ok : b fo g For Theatricals. Child’s Dress. used in every imaginadle Jashion. | |\ JANNEQUINS scem to have devel- . = cre are many fur- coats, mucl oped both busts and hips, the more Don't throw away any od< s ight 1 less bulky than such garments usually | characteristically feminine outline, i 4 '@ | of finery. it md‘l sz;::f;?::’i;;r: ;:,:cg ,,;Z,f:'d' seem, and many full or half-length | which for so many years have been | fur wraps. Shown for both day and| gecidedly out of the fashion picture. 1f you have a yard of silk fringe, or | together. The yoke is simply a strip a few fancy buttons, or a bottle half | of material with an opening for the evening wear is a full length fur wrap. | And this is accomplished without re- e | full of gilt paint, or an old wire hat| head in the center—large enough to ;‘;‘},':°‘:§,‘;“&“'.’i,."3.:{".“ D 8 snug | course to the puffs and bustle effects qaBsides the many R et dnd | o e e e | rame, o anything clse that is of no | silp on easily. Gatner the skirt scction ackets shown, there are half a dozen| A cage in point is the ski costume in | use to yourself or to those you gift with | 2long the top, wi a strip of yarleties of the fur scarf which crosses | dark brown with green trimmings. The old clothes, by sl mesns save it and | Iaisrial and mount the front snaiees fron! hook under jumper, which tucks into the trousefs, put it aside to use in private theatri-| This same simple idea may be made use of in making slips or petticoats. the center back, having circled the |is lined with green and has hookless| £ 7/ 47 il or charndes. ? Children get much fun from cha-|So that there will be no bunchiness figure. Another clever use of fur is| fastenings in diagonal lines from the t] vigoj shown with a black vigogna cloth coat| neck, emphasizing the natural lines of rades and little impromptu plays. THey | uncer the arms, the material for the get more than that; they get real train- | slip should be soft and not too heavy, which is equipped with two fur trim-|the figure, The trousers use the same ings, ermine, T ) & a i e o e e | fasening oneinet bip i are Min- | | fag that stands them in good stead in | and it should b made with little full- [Rovii, wai W the-gurinent may| Dol Wl Al etea kntt Goves. | | school and college. Their imaginations | ness under the arms. e e oML Tor TR A nary troat wear |3, Taswh the EAUIEE t gloves. are trained, they learn fo act without | A dress of the sort described is lovely and for decidedly dressy occasions. The beret is of green felt and the blouse self-conscicusness, they learn to get ef- | made of voile, printed or plain. The 7 e e At AR i Ao fects in the way ‘of scenery and back- | binding of the gathered skirt may, be | TOUN N 3 01 he 5 e LMOST all the fur-trimmed gar- | yellow kid for the yoke of the trousers. | S lotwrimtnin o ] e | ments are mccompanied by fur | The cuffs of the trouscrs, as well as the ¥ o s | I 4 separate gauntlets, this time not at. muff-purses. Usually these are of the | tached to the gloves, are of matching soft pouch type with a stiff bar across | knit wool. | their length at the top, to make the | * K Kk ‘There Tfll Vionnet collection this season | of years—garments, and particularly purse opening. are also the | N formal clothes there are contrast- smaller soft muffs, only to inclose the and extending a little over the ends of the sleeves. - To preserve the slenderness of the in fur wraps, an insertion of matching broadcloth or of satin about 10 inches wide is placed at the waist. ine, quite banishing the bulky look ‘which most fur garments give. Another vidual touch is seen in rather wide cuffs of beaver which are turned back | on_themselves in another two-inch cuff. | ‘While Vionnet remains true to the bias cutting, which is almost synony- | contrasting top with the dark skirt mous with the name of the house, there | built up above a normal waistline, and | with the wrapped sash belt favored | whith has not been noted for 4 number | here. is & difference in the present collection Rivals of Wind-Blown Bob NTOINE, the Paris hair dresser, definitely announces that the wom- an who wishes to be smart in the new millinery must give up those turnsd-up curls in her neck. Present-day mil- Hinery, -he feels, requires a smooth, clean-cut line at the nape of the neck, and to realize the full extent of its chic the coiffure shouid have an up- ward sweep. e likes the enas tucked in in the fashion of the French roll, or, if the hair is kept too short for that, brushed upward in the same movement. There are, of course, individual adap- tations which are necessary, such as curling the ends of ths up-brushed hair for eertain types and for certain hats. But the effect of really smart milinery demands the “net” effect at the nape of the neck, which adds to the smart- ness of the new lines. Curls and puffs and complicatec hair dressing in general are for the evening, and that, in turn, must be in tune with the individual and her frock. Antoine finds wigs much. the most satistaztory for the more complicated evening , and as he does them they Jack nothing in naturalness, or in ap- pearing to be one's own hair. Often a row of what our grand- mothers liked to eall spit-curls frames the face, adding much to the illusion. ‘hen & wig 18 not worn, the same y?\u' own hair in its be of just the wearer's hair, this The simple draping of the gown above makes it interesting in a season of elabo- ration of lie. It is made of lustrous red velvet and has sleeves which are slit from just below the elbow to wrap-around effeet of the body of the dress is worthy of attention. large enough | ing yoke effects, usually in_typically Vionnet lines, some of which extend to the waistline or below and are almost an incrusted sleeveless jacket. With rwmi armholes they succeed in slen- de g the figure at the same time that they give a widened shoulder ef- fect. Some dresses have contrasting tops emphasized by a short jacket of the same material as the blouse and held in place by the same belt. For formal wear, both cocktail dress- es and simple dinner frocks use a | ally, and to saccompany certain cos- tumes pure white. Paris has quite taken to the wind- ilown bob, as created by Antoine, and | adopted by Mme. Agnes. This is severely simple, but he feels it quite in spirit with the times and manners. M. Eugene, of Jules et Etienne, on| the other hand, says that there is a general tendency to wear the hair longer in the neck, turned up in curls which are made sure by permanent waving, except in the rare cases where the hair has sufficlent natural curl. Occasional- 1y he feels that the little bun is becom- ing, though it would be impossible to find a Paris coiffeur who would un- reservedly sponsor long hair. It simply 1s not in the Paris fashion picture. Jules et Etlenne say that, outside of this increased length, every coiffure must be adapted to the individual face; that for each woman it is an individual study, dependent on her own features, and that it may not be decided as & general line. All sorts of lovely and elaborate gad- gets are returning to favor with the new hairdressings for evening. Combs of many varied kinds are popular, and | there are many lovely bands in toronet effects which supply the finishing touch of elegance to the coiffure for very for- mal occasions. o Government railways in Japan report decreasing passenger and freight reve- nues. The black velvet gown above embodies man: of the best style features of the season. o puff sleeves, the basque bodice ending in a tiny ruffle, the ckirt which is finished with a graceful flounce and the ermine trim- ming around the neck are all details typical of the mode of 1931, the wrist. The Old-Fashioned Miser Purses Perhaps it is just the returd to the modes and manners of ther’s The flounced skirt, the peplum and the trimming of curly black fur, all fashion highlights, are featured in reen. The evening ensemble above ame trimmed with blue fox. | PARIS, September 17. Boflm are now making their col- | | lections of mew shoes to comple- | ment the costumes which are to be | worn_this Fall. ‘While the shapes are not radically different, there is a de- cided change in materials, or rather of torials, and a interest in color or the more dress- makery feeling that has permeated the fashion world, it is difficult to say. But there it is. And, while the shoe de- signers vary in their individual points of view as to what will be the correct thing in footwear, they are uniform in their belief that we are going to see more brown shoes than we have for many a season, This expresses their belief in the netessity-of shoes match- ing the costumes, and their opinion as to the success of brown. However, they are all supplied with kid—a soft, pliable patent kid—and antelope, for street wear, in dark greens and dark reds, as well as in the more conventional browns and blacks. Hellstern believes that we will see many street shoes in variations of the oxford tie, and that this type of shoes will slide over for more formal after- noon wear, as evidenced by shoes with ially | material of the dress, whether it be ! Julienne adds a new note, particularly the suits above, one black, the other at the left is rose, blue and gold trast, with perhaps @ small design at| the outside of the foot, always in leath- er or light patent. They are also showing a one-strap patent leather pump with the shallow U incrustation of matching antelope both on the vamp and quarter. Evening shoes show more m, but, according to Greco, must the velvet, crepe, satin or brocade. They are largely divided between the pump and the low-cut, one-strap sort, usually with cut-out effects. Hellstern prefers these in gold or sil- ver kid, while Greco likes to combine the metal leathers with crepz or satin. .ovely in pumps of burgundy red, by cu.nbining velvet with crepe de chine or satin, to avoid too great bglk{nt;“i: Lavender, Gray, Doubtful for Age T is difficult to understand how lay- ender and gray were ever chosen &s the most suitable colors for old ladies with gray or white hair. Occasionally these colors are vastly becoming to old yamps and heels of black kid and quar- ters and saddle of matching satin, the sort of shoes that we have not seen for many a leng day. These are three or four cyelet tles, rather deeply cut | out. For outdoor wear he is doing the same sort of shoe, but Wwith a slightly higher threat, with the vamp in coco brown antelope and the rest of the shoe in chocolate patent kid. Hellstern feels that the oxford or Richelieu type is the only shoe whicl will be seen for daytime wear, with the exception of the classic opera ‘will be varied only by the tation, quite & point of & new shoe which is w% a high step-in, with the place of the elastic taken by a tiny vest of contrasting leather, with three eyelets and fine silk lacing ending in leather tassels. The vamp is joined to the quarter on a slanting line, marked, as is the outline of the imsertion and |gray lstezl beads in the form of two emall | talents. If neither of these, then you | the top of the shoe, by 8 or 10 lines of closely placed machine stitching in a | pouches, each closed with a ring which may betake yourself to & smart shop nter. | contrasting color., The first model of | s over the operning. and bun to the | and purcrase one 8t the DI8 atiac. | this type was in dark biue with white These quaint in the | tive accessories Safe S0 dars °rf | and Winter costume. e ve been cherishing one of | summoned ‘helrioom, now is the time | Enpioen ¥ stitching, the tiny vest of reptile and the cords of the blue with matching tassels. also is going in for the d, fhln‘heel for street wear, u;ln{lton his type of shoe. Not only is there a t at the back of cach heel land, court m;&mn 4 Em g, MM %@"fl"fi m’“fi'& shows another one placed ver med . the are marked by needle or zhook,lnvm.mmmhmhmmmu nthnlo'lzth;"lu-. vacations. o make use of your h | red is so soft that it s not harsh, and |ladies. But usually they are the very | most unbecoming colors that could be chosen. | For the pale skin so usual in older | women needs something more definite, | brighter or darker than these dainty pastel colors to bring out its best quali- ties. Really a soft, deep maroon is & beautiful color about an old face. The its richness and warmth are reflected in the colorless face above it. The type of woman who probably ve gray and lavender their a ity as colors for the elderly mu bair that is either pure white or a clear gray. There mus tbe none of the yellow or greenish or brown shades 50 usual in ying or whitening hair. The complexion must be fair and smooth and fine, with an absence of sandy, sallow or ruddy hue. And since is a “large” color, the woman who wears it well must be slight and slender. Browns generally are colors that should be avolded by the woman with white or gray hair. Navy blue, and in- deed many other of the deeper, darker -&fiu&&:, are good. Black and W] r’ are usuaily becoming, whereas gray is deads 3 ; ‘White alone is usual becoming. Older women seem to have discovered mx-ctdmgnmmmm em Patou uses considerable bronse and brown satin for daytime dresses The one above is typi be particularly becoming to the woman with a mature figure. Fashion Essentials. ERE are the things that you must remember about the new fashions: ‘The new pencil silhouette with longer, more slender lines. Greater width at the shoulders. Pinched-in waist line. xurious fur collars on coats. made with & Coats, remember, are wrap-over at the it now used to. Cream white is the ther than dead white. finermuly lap) or belted. together _buttoned ‘must be clutched 1t of date. jer_effect is seen in a red taffeta dress with cire design in the high neckline of 1931 styles is exemplified in a red crepe ", A panni same color. The onay de chine dress with cire thread embroidery in the same tone. Some for This Season Are Part of Coetume-'—:':; Picturesque and Plain Clothes With Various Elements of Dress. T BY MARY MARSHALL. part of the dress or which they are worn and combine the duties of scarf Dresses for Autumn street made with generously collars, and many of are provided with silk or soft woolen or supple fur scarfs that fold over beneath the large fur collar. seMRERIE gloves is to the color of the fur e L Shampoo Is Real Help to Beauty JD© you shampoo your own hair at home, and your children’s hair? Now, it is, of course, a luxury to have your hair shampooed by an ex- pert. Moreover, it is restful just to visit # hairdresser or beauty parlor. To re- lax in a comfortable chair such as these places always bave and have | somebedy with deft, skilled fingers work over one, that alone is restful and delightful. And, of course, it is a great deal easier to turn the children over to the hairdresser when eir hair needs shampoo, both for others thoroughly satisfactory t. If you will spend just a little money in getting the means of making it easier, you really won't dread even giving yourself a shampoo. To begin with, there is the means of r the hair. This is really of vital nce. One reason hair often, after both & home and & professional i iH FE s i (L TTRIE PRNEY PR PRueswl EEen bhnkeu_ are worn, the wear generally appears”first at ‘the edges. This should give you a good hint for new blankets. If you want to make them last as long as possible, re-enforce the new blankets at the edges. Some people face the upper edge of new blankets with strips of fine muslin in to K order put_on. ‘The muslin does more than keep the blankets clean; it saves wear just where wear comes first. Now for blankets that have already worn. Sometimes you can cut them so that one large blanket can be made from two old ones. This means a seam wn the middle, but this does not rove a source of difficulty. The seam sesniizen - should be made in the form of a flat If the blanket is top, this can pe cut used for 4 smaller bed. It is a y some that will not gc poor investments. Never reliable store for a flnd‘ a wul;::'nm'h claims for the dnl::: all wool when the price does not warrant.such a Tflw lasts -