Evening Star Newspaper, September 20, 1931, Page 41

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, Three Distinctly New Silhouettes 9 D. C., SEPTEMBER 20, 1931—PART THREE. Have Appeare The bustle gown with rufed skirt and basque bodice, in pale blue faille. Basques, Frilled Skirts and the Modernized Crinoline Featured—New Silhouettes Make Worth’s Clothes Interesting to Women of Many Types. - the period of 1880-81. Quaint ruffies, sloping upward at the back, are a feature of the skirts, but quaint is & word not accurate as applied to the styles of 1931. Daring is a better word—but daring only in dress for the | tion. evening—and daring, then, only for those who dare to be daring. * % k% HERE is nothing in this silhouette to foster sartorial animosity. If| you cannot year it there are plenty of others that are new ‘;..nd fashionable. FOL!OWINO are a few fashion notes 5 Evening coats havesleeves that are.very are many types. It must be remembered | wide below the elbow, the coat that any good collection of clothes, mch; in a pastel color. as those shown twice a year in Paris,| Materials are: Fine woolens in di- | must be varied to meet a cosmopolitan agonal weaves, jersey and corduroy for clientele. | the morning: broadcloth, crepe maro- ‘The second silhouette by Worth shows | cain and dull velvets for afternoon: and & modern use of crinoline and hoops in | chiffon, net, satin, lace and .velvet for biack Jace and tulle. the evening. Following the lines of the figure and | ,Colors in sports clothes are African | defining the natural waistline, the third | brown, violet, Algerian red and various silhouette is simple and decidedly 1931, | shades of blue and green. Other day- | It is the sleek dghauefle. the one uponiume clothes include black, violet lnfll which so many of our American shops | various shades of green and red. For are pinning their faith. American|evening there are pale blue, will see ail types this'pink and violet and black. Jewelry With New Styles les of Rowurnc fashions. senumenm-‘ fashions. All the dear, dead ghosts | beads. of days departed, are withgus this sea- son in the jewelry which smart women are wearing with the new romantic fashions of the 1860s and 1880s. | Reproductions of the jewelry worn by the Empress Eugenie If are shown. Plaques of tiny brilliants, imi- | tation sapphires, emeralds, rubles or other colorful stones, are mounted with seed 1s. ‘There are necklaces, brace- | lets and earrings to match, The atten- tion to the finer details of the jeweler's craft, as shown in the originals, has been expended on these reproductions. The settings of the plaques, for in- | stance, are engraved on the back, just | as the originals were. Throughout, the pieces are beautifully finished and re- markably inexpensive. | One shop has gathered from here, | Yien “probebly has been. reposing 1 | which n_re| H bureau drawers and safe deposit boxes | ‘These riage. dt's on its way and it will be same counter were some very wood bracelets in various th costumes: so many of which are brown. ‘Bracelets are especially important this sleever are so often short. ‘bracelets of wood, very nar- t together on one side by a ‘wrought silver, or of silver and were unusial enough to catch in one of New York's important .In the realm of that sort of novel which one buys for a special strung on a chain interspersed with gilt | . These come in a wide ranze of colors to sult any cosiums. | ey AM].'K'HY!‘I‘B and pearls are a favored | combination this scason, and beau- | t!ful examples of jewelry made of these stones are to be found in many of the shops. The slightly more daring mode | of garnets, mounted In clusters and | stars, and picked out with bright points | of 1old. is another old favorite brought back to grace the styles of 932, Clip-on earrings sre a noveliy to be found in almost all the department | stores. They look as though they would | be much more convenient and becoming than the old screw type of earring. | Mingling with all the delicate charm | of Victorian revivals, there is still the bizarre note of the baubles which take ! thelr inspiration from the French Colonial Exposition, productive of &0 | much that is interesting in the way of style features. Brilllant beads, huge in | size and of tropical richness of color, | that seem to have nothing whatever in | common with the fragile beauty of the | Empress Eugenie mode, are advocated to accompany the new sports frocks. “You pays your money and you takes your choice” is the reflection one ar- rives at after a visit to these colorful | jewelry counters. | { Erect Carriage! Watch out for the new erect car- the perfect antithesis of the debutante | slouch that was in favor not so long ago. So watch your step and watch e, for it's chests up, hips shoulders down. Coats no to be clutched at the front p them closed and hands are free to hang gracefully at the sides, to hold ‘t!a snuggle comfort. | developments in | confirms this rumor of | return erect ohrriage, and to | accentuate the mew posture there i g tende: ~the very newest French | Oresses the material up a little at the back. are so-called apron drapings that suggest the silhouetie of | the 1880s, and scme of the more pic- | costume and never Buu on again, are mnecklaces of rondels of felt, caught together with tiny rondels of goid, and turesque type of evening dresses s Duffs ‘and rufMles at the Back of s real bustle type. A new decolletege in a blaclk vel- vet gown—a diamante design in the f;cl: through which the scarf ends ip. A jacker trimmed with ermine, worn ‘over a dress of matching blue wool with a top of tucked batiste. Pearls Photogr;l)jl; Pearls are said to be the jewel that Pphotographs best. ‘That's what the jewelers and pho- tographers say. And when you come to think of if, | pearls are about the only jewel we can | recall when we think of photograpbs of | | wide and one inch longer than the but- L our friends. We can remember lmm | Sonhole strings of lovely pearls in many ngha, but f:": of m sgn:-. , it ve take them"‘v‘vlth you when you color in your pbotogr ‘he little town of Kawaidani, b .m worm district of Japan, prohibition five years ago it has paid off its $14,000 debt, built a|the inside ‘and fell neatly down. Press | back of tfl.flg school and substantially in-|the finished bank deposits. side. in the d sa 1l means 80 to be hotographed, They will catch the light | 20 miake soft, lovely pools of lustrous | A chenille jersey coat trimmed with brown astrakhan is wern over a brown chiffon gown trimmed with brown and white Right: A black marocain dress trimmed with white georgette is worn with a black broad- cloth coat trimmed with white ermine. Worth's version of the crinoline silhouette, in a gown of fine black lace veiling, a cluster of pink flowers on the skirt. The velvet wrap with one sleeve only is trimmed with silver fox. Pastel Furs Are Becomingly Soft Fur trimming will appear on many of the Autumn and Winter dresses, and usually the furs chosen for this pur- pose are of the light and supple sort, such as caracul, ermine or barunduki. Narrow bands of ermine are used on the new black velvet dresses. Barunduk! with its tones of brown and black is used on black Spanish tile or brown d!“:r- black caracul on black cloth fur may lpgelr on the hat of felt to match the dress. Fur is sometimes used to make the belts of the new coats. Fur belts are . |alkso used on new dresses and are us- | ually finished with buckles of polished wood: Bound Buttonhole. ThS bound buttonhole s often used as a decoration. This is not difficult. Mark out the position for your button. hole with a buun’ thread, then take & straight of material one inch i to be, and mark the lipe down the center with a sharp pen- ell (if the material will take i%), or of the material over the basted line and then machine stitch each sice cf the line. Cut through both the strip and material beneath (between the linesof stitching) as carefully as you can, and pull the strip through to the wrong side. Turn in the raw edges on buttonhole op the wrong - | shoulders and elbows. Dimple Is Mark Of the Coquette Experts in physiognomy tell us that dimples placed at the cornersof the mouth indicate playfulness, mirthful- ness and a sense of humor, while dim- ples at the outer side of the cheek be- token sociability, agreeability, skill in fiattery and a desire to please. Few natural coquettes lack dimples, and it is recorded that Nell Gwynne had dimples in her cheeks, hands, Dimpled bables are said to be invariably sweet-tem- pered and happy. The chin dimple isn’t really a dimple at all, because it is a permanent feature, depending on the shape of the bone and muscles, not on the presence of lltxty ‘:Ialue, t 18 said to indicate an admiration cl%banwmluu:nna;uno!'.he beattiful. It oftens occurs with an ul»nru::i: tempf’r‘:flentf’ Amonlt ‘; tresses, Marlowe's face | characterized by this feature. It was and l;:r Hlmolm" 'l\gunchm often ly e composers , Schumann and Schubert. ! Turbans. otherwise a basting thread. Place the | strip face downward on the right side Turbans are among the newest hats. They are pulled down over the right eye, pushed up to show the hair at the |11, 1 the essential line of the mode. | Somztimes they are m i {Bon: " Bemétabee whar ;‘.;:i o m’: new hat to p;:.cedlt n“'r;‘t a our head, it dos it the :o‘fknnxmmdn',hlwvn:nh:o . on. likewise possessed by Joseph Jefferson Or you Taffeta |limp. To t on | water, Use ittle to the |to half a pintzof warm water, and be i sure it is v po- | ni —this model of violet velvet has shirring .on the sleeves and a shirred muff. A sport suit of blue and red mixed twoolen, trimmed with gray astra- khan, is worn with a matching knit- ted blouse. Color Combinations. ‘Wood brown may be combined with & soft light green or with rust or Span- ish tile. A one-piece dress, for instance, may have a skirt of brown lightweight | wool attached to an upper portion of or rust colored silk or. crepe. may select a brown two-piece suit and wear it with a blouse of the contrasting color. The same color com- binstion can then be carried out in the rest of the ensemble by way of a.brown | hat trimmed with feather ornament | showing the contrasting color or with :&:‘13 set with green or rust colored Seei g S Stiffen Taffeta. dresses are inclined to become remedy this, sponge the ar- | ticle on the wrong side with borax and | f a teaspoonfu! of borax Above, h!t to right: A three-quarter length coat of brown woel trimmed with otter with a brown wool dress with beige silk collar and cuffs. The three-quarter length formal coat is of black velvet and silver fox. They Reach Floor for Formal, or Ankle for Informal Use—Colors With Black or Alone Are Approved. BY MARY MARSHALL. ‘Whether your ev War ot 55 b ening wardrobe calls J . : ] oeoa;z‘:v- n’e‘t’la) mfi'nu m:d“ ex prac into American , or speakeasy, these dresses resembie but in material and relation to evening clothes, solving the problem of the correct thing to wear when one’s escort is not in evening : of dean Patou HE collection ean Pa aroused even more interest than usual this year, on three counts. The compiete absence of black from the collecnoa is h;m:h:( t:e most striking experimen en- tire season, more impressive because of e minence usually accorded to black here. That, plus the new sil- houette, quite different from the show- ings in any other house, has made a sensation. The third item of novelty is the introduction of Persian colors, brocades which are authentic coples of old Persian documents, and Perslan thread embroidery at wrists. Black has been replaced, -to & large extent, by the darkest of the Persian colors, a shade of brown known | skirt to its hem. The entire collection red. When nearly on the wrong side iron k s moderately hot iron. as Caroub. Black is present onl¥“ln the ski costumes, an effect carefully studied for its effectiveness against the snow. Patou uses both shaped berets and the old-fashioned earlap cap for ‘Winter sports wear, and always with a Norfolk-Jacket effect. * ok K % Besides the brown, the Persian red and green are seen throughout the col- lection, as well as soft tonmes of blue, and rose, all reminiscent of old rsian embroideries. These appear not only in frocks, but often in satin L which accompany many . suits, oftenest in the Caroub shade.” Tunics vary in len from half way to the knees. to t- the bottom .of the skirt, where just a hint of the suit color s discovered at the hem. * ok KK The new silhouette; M. Patou him- self most aptly describes as a “sugar- loaf.” Whil ericans are not all silk and light wool prints, of the stand- ard motifs, for daytime wear. ‘The only pajamas shown were those intended for yschting. One amusing tailored suit, called “Petit Homme,"” has a tight, straight skirt, striped like & man’s trousers and marked by a nar- row inverted stitched pleat, front and back, as well as at the sides. The cut- away coat is of Oxford gray and is bound all around with .uk,gug Wool Costumes : And Fur Jackets : THI short fur jacket is a feature of all fashions. With the early morning wool suit or dress, on through the afternoon, col with velvets and satins, to make its entrance at the , | most brilliant of evening fune we z perf as here, has a tin: head, surmounted by & small hat, rather pinched-in shoulders, a normal waistline and a delicately widening f the rs of past but is’ definitely cut to this ea. Skirt lengths for daytime are slightly longer than last season and for cve- ning a little shorter, which means that Fashion Cable. Paris, September 10. first Sunday night dinner dance at thie Rits brought out many new evening frocks, including much faille and velvet. year. ‘The smartest skirts to the knees before the Skirt. shall see it this Winter. But it is not the straight coat of last season. To supplant that straight coat we have a highly styled affair smacking of period influence in its curved waist- line a ‘widened sh and oc- cording to its degree of formality, some- times we have a flaring peplum for ‘measure, Goupy's sleeveless fur coat that ends a few inches below the waistline and