Evening Star Newspaper, August 16, 1931, Page 43

THE SUNDAY New style features mark this white satin evening dress with its widened shoulder , gay belt of twisted green and white romaine and skirt wid- ened at the bottom. The jacket to accompany it, at the right, has the new frilled sleeves. Trend Is Toward the Romantic; Modernized Bustle Effects Featured in New Evening Dresses; Day Dresses Show Bell Sleeves. HOSE vacationing at length dur-| ing the manths of August and September and those making the popular week end trips at this season ©f the-year are faced with the problem of what to buy to supplement their wardrobes. « Influence of the so-called romantic periods of dress is emphasized in sleeves, | espesfally those of short evening coats where the flounced sleeve is used ef- fectively. An' interesting serics of afternoon dresses newly styled for Fall shows sleeves widening in bell effect lnd caught back into tight cuffs. This t; of dress, very simple in design, lnd always in dark colors, is accomp: Inledl by a short lame jacket, Wi mhmn.l . An unsual detail on some of these costumes is the overseams exactly like those used on gloves. | jood cholce for the evenlnl o el he wuk:nd;‘r‘ ble‘ umu of style jportance, havi en el at the Paris openings. Con- siderable of it is used in afternoon as well as evening gowns ‘Widened shoulder effects, we already know, are a mark of the styles that will earry over into 1932 x % % % hiODIRNlZm bustle effects are fea- tured on some of the new evening gowns; so handled that the draping of the cloth in no way broadens the figure but rather emphasizes the slenderness of the waistline. A number of gowns show double flounces st the center back with the two flounces repeated at the bottom of the skirt directly in the center. Black lame organdie also is a good choice of material for the late Sum- mer dinner dress. It was shown at the Paris openings in models with wide skirts,. their width accentuated by frills Bodices of ergandie frocks as designed in_Paris feature feather trimmings. There is a nice fashion for traveling and general-utility suits of light-weight | novelty jerseys that appear like tweeds. Some have vests m like a man's | waistcoat, the vests always being in a| contrasting eolor that blends effectively ‘with the suit. S * * SEPARATE coats that may be worn | with & number of different dresse:, | while making no attempt to mateh them, have become very important. A bomb has been thrown into the ensemble theme with the tendency to waar a contrasting coat and dress. This fashion makes the travel coat no longer a part of the wardrobe to be used upon oceasions only. but a practical and unlul 'nrmem at all times One of Suzanne Talbat's new hats of | black felt stitched with white and trim- med with a_tailored bow and band of grosgrain ribbon, Fashions of Eug enie Source of New Vogue EMPIRE. —Empress Bu- genie. Whati do these terms, which have recently becore catchwords of fashion, mean to you? One need not, of course, be a student of history to appreciate the fine points | of fashion, but it is well o besr in mind that' Eugenie was the Spanish- bor wife of Napoleon III, who was Emperor of France during the 18 years between 1852 and 1870, and that when we speak of Empress Bugenie or Sec- ond Empire fashions we refer to certain styies of dress that prevailed in France during that period and thit were to some extent influenced by the taste of the charming Empress. Actually we are in no danger what- ever of going back to the widely hal- looning skirts and tightly laced waist- lines that were in favor during this period. * Even the hats which we speak of quite confidently as “Empress Eu- " ere pretty far removed from the y of the earlier period. but a suggestion of similarity 15 there, and that §s enough to justify the name Empress Eugenie undoubtedly posses- sed unusually good taste in matters of SECONU , dress, and not infrequently defied ac- | cepted fasiions in her efforts to have clothes of a more ‘uc:!ul Jess elaborate sort. When she e Empress very elaborate and rich silk materials were in_fashion, shot taffetats, damask reps, old and silver brocades, eclaborately ‘broeatelles and “moire antique.” And while the waore these stiff heavy materials in order to favor the Prench silk industry, she was actually in favor of lllhur, ‘softer fabrics—or- gandie, tarlatan, crepe, gauze, muslin and bharege Durirg ln%oxcs reign sleeves and skirts were th of suech enormous propartions that coats were out of the question, with the result that shawls came into favor as well as a variety of mantillas er half cloaks that might be worn over the bouffant dress with- out dificulty Little by little during the reign of Eugenie, fashions changed and skirts became a trifie less bouffant. Skirts became a trifie shorter and slecves be- came less unwieldy. Trains and tunics came into fashion, and by 1867, three vears before the end of Eugenie's reign, the erinoline had finally dlnpnnr.q Fantasy Seen in Clothes For Beach at Le Touquet JPARIS, August 6. Dispatches from Le Touguet and Deauville indieate that fantasy is rife in the clothes for beach wear. Por the number of ga ments Tequired has been greatly en- larged, if the clothes themselves have been curtailed in size Not ‘50 many years ago a bathing suit apd a bath cape were all that were required. The bathing suit remains but the cape has disappeared. But long passed are the days when a bathing suit was that and nothing more Now it must be & swim suit, besides which there must be » beach suit. or sun suit, as they are usually called; pajamas, which are usually three-pie #nd if you want the ful equipment, & slip-on frock, or suit, and shorts The choice in materials and design for this most important part of wom- on’s wardrobes is unlimited, | as is hcmnn(ly evident at every fash- fonable place The regulation swimming suit of fine kr-eyw! either wool or silk—though retains its ciassical form, has in- lllmerlble styles as rds the cut- contrasting bands and motifs .um for sun bathing are as distinct this season from swimming suits as are ! the wide short culottes, ankle pajamas the natty little uw ‘worn vmn |the walst in almost backless suit of fine white jer- sey, with the monogram in bright scar- let matehing the bands at the decolle- tage and the hem of the tunic. Over this were scarlet shorts of generous width at the bottom. but fitted tightly over the hips where they buttoned and a short sieeveless bolero of white flan- nel with scarlet bindings Another swimming suit of navy and white jersey had only a plastron front with wide shoulder straps extending to the back. Por the long rest after strenuous diving and swim- syjt was covered by a cream shantung pajema outfit with real sailor trousers, snug at the hips and very wide at }‘mu botiom. The calchumu; o jon blue saflor collar witl t |, The sou'wester ype " |ing great popularity, In biue lmen, with the front turned back, while the back of the brim rested on the shoul- ders, it accom |Jama qutfit with ¢ white jersey blouse. The smartest of the sun suits are in two-color effects in knotted trim with very abbreviated shorts and n-mms decollette so that tlu are v«y itle, indeed. Flat, vound sailor caps are the favorites with these outfits. Ever useful in the traveler's ward- robe is the bouclet suit. The one above is in two shades of blue. The coat in the small sketch at she right is of white flannel fastened with large el buttons. takes a careful look to be sure they are of blue in a silk and wool ture, while a cream fifinnel had ‘belt and embroidered emerald green around skirt which went over Jersey is th !-nru material, though sees also much linen. Plannel and are seen An —flkr numbers. When of fl& former, they | regulation | of hat is yuin-, a matching pa- | Y LB T 1-‘»"—“""*“‘" TS a——— +TON, D. C; AUGUST 16, 1 Suitable for train, boat or motor travel is the coat above of brown and beige tweed with the new type of revers. It is belted with brown cedfskin. The cne-piece dress is of brick<olored lightweight woolen. “VHANEL features red, black and white. Fashion Cable. PARIS, August 6. New diagonsl striped jersey 4 for dresses or blouses with short jacket suits and matching hats, also little fur hats princess silhouette with bustle backs, also tiny single and double pu; sleeve evening coats Day skirts two inches longer. Evening materials, heavy satins, For evening, velvet, muslin. Long velvet Bchiaparelli uses a new waterproof jersey and crepon marocain that looks &s if shirred all over; also true corduroy as well as corduroy effects. Large pillow muffs swing on ribbons from rolled collars. dl;r:mn: dresses and pajamas have trains which become classic skirt pes. Molyneax shows semble, lead. Much crepon velvet for afternoon and evening. eubtle but definite influence of 1860. Drop shoulder effects. Greens of every shade often two combined in en- for afternoon and evening. Mainbocher launches new dinner ensemble for speakeasies, skirted suits with long-sleeved blouses. under side or back drapes. high All coats buttoned Worth shows three evening silhouettes, “Tiny ruffies of the eighties, crinolimes in Suits for day and separate utility coats newer than ensembles. Day colors are brown er. Muffs long- Narrow skirts conceal split including tight bodices. lace and tulle. Decolletages red, violet and black, with light_shades used for evening dresses. Martial and Armand feature petticoats with dresses is of great importance. Large barrel muffs are shown. Here purple Tiny shirred muffs match short evening wraps. Jewelry Is Much ITH the new, more feminine mode o arranging the “orn in Paris come a revived intersst hair ornaments aftractive for evening wear are usually s Iml.lflon ith gem: head Th‘n These ai ir there ha: ornamen espacially when they uddod whh u“lx. real or combs nt s 10 be worn st the back of who wears her | n by the low T'he: Te are jew. top of the head and down at the sides, as well 85 the more familiar clips which | come l.n pairs to be worn at either sid: of the head. While many women cBuose pensive hair ornaments there is & grow- ing tendemey to include hair elips smong such ornaments as ri d | neckisoes ible nave which should if possi intrinsic _a: merit. Women who can afford such luxuries like to have their evening hair well as mere superficial | Here is a new feature in hats as de- signed by Jean Patou. It is the double brim, The hat is of brown felt trim- med with brown quills. 10 the left, evening pajamas of yel- Iow silk and lounging pajamas of | blue, black and white printed silk. The sleeveless dress with o jacket (above) fills the requirements of a luncheon, bridge or general utility | rllllll.‘ (\mnn looks precisely like a very large | | safety pin—fully 4 inches long, usually | —set with diamonds or other brilliant stonex. And it is worn as a brooch at ’thz front closing of the bodice or blouse. Narrow bracelets worn in groups of half & dumhue much seen at the | Summer resor! The bracelets chosen for this msy be of the most inexpensive dosign and color mpertpapl. ‘Whether the vogue at nesorts for jewsled slipper mean jeweled slipper hesis fop orpaments set with Jevcll 10 match the | | necklace or braceleis s = Pink lace evening dress with lacetrimmed tulle scarf and a lace-in- erusted tulle flounce on the skirt. The white satin jacket sketched at the left of it is suggested as a good model to wear with this charming frock. Season’s New Silhouette'_ BY MARY MARSHALL. Type—Milliners Have Taken Lead With Picturesque Hats—Elaboration Above Waist. EVER was th® hshion situa-| enough to cover fhe dress skirt, three- tion more interesting than it quarters or sevi is now as we approach the pronouneed flanbl t there Autumn of 1931. And whether | and whether or not you have a very definite idea of what these tendencies really are, you have, I am sure, the fact that radical changes are taking place and that the whole tempo of the | | dance of fashion has been very di cidedly accelerated. Styles are chang: |ing more rapidly than they have at |any time since the war, and dressing | in the mode during the coming Autumn | and Winter is going to be full of thrills | | and surprises. * o ox o NTERESTINGLY enough the mil- liners have taken the lead, and the | story of the new coats and dresses and | | actessories is to a great extent a story | of keeping up with the new fashion in hats. Because there isn't any doubt at all about the ultimate success of the new style of hats. To be sure there may be some passing objection this Autumn. There will be well dressed | women who will refuse to wear the for- | ward tilted Eugenie bonnets. Possibly | there will be a recognized reaction | | against them. But in the end the new, | more picturesque, more studied type of hat will win out. Because at heart we are all of us weary of the sort of hats that went before. Whether they cov- ered the forehead as they did a few | years ago or left it starkly bare as they did last Autumn the most that could be said of hats was that they were | smart and simple and edsy to wear. | These new hats are coquettish, they are even pretty, and they-are varied enough | to suit any type of face. They -are more elaborate and sometimes they are not so easy to wear. They must be ad- | justed with extreme care and the hair must be arranged with precision. Those charming snoods or side straps thnt are | sometimes used to hold them in at the left side add to the complica- | tion, and there is even talk now of the | revival of hat pins to keep the tilted | hats from slipping off entively. x oK N view of the new hat. fashions ane | thing is perfectly ceriain. Skirts will remain long. There is no d.lM!’r that they will be raised to the knees at | least for some time. Twelve inches | from thae floor for daytime clothes, with | a slight droop at the back for many of | the afternoon dresses, while dresses for evening touch the floor or escape it only by an inch or two. | Remember that the sjlhouette ac- | cepted for Autumn is slender. Day- } time coats are full length, that is long | hough only 7| Do ness or elal ‘waistline. deeply overla, | ing, generous ecoll away from the | are atightly are ain slender. appear above ai wrap-around cl that stand well J"' and sleeves thab ["at the elbow—thess of the new fur o8 clath coats that will surely remain favor throughout the Autumn Winter. \ All this accents the slenderness ‘ | the waistline and hips but it fifl ;ithnul distortion or exaggeration. | form-molding fodnd‘tion garments— but there is as of a re- turn of the old- umo tightly laced cors set as there was five or ten years ago. JACKET suits, of course, will be im= portant, both for Autumn and Win- ter. And there are new Autumn dresses made with matching jackets coming just below the waistline or in fin, | length. Many of the French dressmak- | ers, however, have made their most re- cent costumes with three-quarter length coats. Much has been said about the new | sleeves, and the dressmakers here and | in Paris are undoubtedly taking this de- | tail of dress mere urlounly nun they | have for some time | 8s well as in coats, nrmhnka are given | considerable depth. Sleeves of & pra- | nounced dolman cut are used in a num- |ber of new French dresses, and this. . l&sl)l:mn u:m undouhtedl.v b2 ";wzx:d enthusiasm in s usual thing the hmnus of the elbow. In coats as we ‘sleeves that show a gradi ® | way down from the elbow, sleeves are made wil | brought into a deep full cap sleeves are uled new dinner and lat: & dresses. Puff sleeves, made vary fll!‘t and flln. Te also seen in dresses of this sort. vy are especlally attractive made of lace as a complement of & velvet dress. Even sweaters reflect the pew and are made with deeper \r-hnlu and fuller sleeves. Sometimes the fullnqgs appears only in the region of the elbov. | sometimes it is fairly full down to narrow cuff, and -Ch- ll folln- the new leg 0’ mutfon lines with fullness above the elbow and & close-fitting “cuff” extending from elbow to wrist, whi Leisurely Choice of Hais 'ONVERSATION ~ among women | everywhere turns to millinery just | now. It is inevitable that it should | { with hats setting toe pace in advance | styles. A time of prosperity for mil- rlmtr! is advancing with the coming ef hats requiring art and workmanship in ’ their eonstruction. Even the dresmaker cannot talk of current styles without the conversation | turning to the subject of hats, for we have entered a cycle of style when all fashions are influenced by the hats we | wear. | _ 'What will be the future of the Second ire_hats, the Rembrandt hat with |its pnnl!ed crown and the derby with | | rolling brim? What are their chances | of suepess? These questions are heard women arriving Yom hats have angles must be careful Mueh of smartn of uc;rmz':;u One point of the ‘bflm must descend over ane eye. - head must be well covered wh gt e i i I coiffure exposed on the left side where the hair must be waved and curl gm!er-bly in a backward ‘I‘rnc . air should be arranged in nice little curls to N woman cannot wear the millinery today already has been raised. with all its adaptations for both and old and skill your s‘r:ouldubrlnl to fitting of the there no Teason why nu-y ‘woman should not be fl!fiu ‘hatted. Brldnl Veils ~t Hnerhhlvflv!!llln.dlor And . these b