Evening Star Newspaper, July 5, 1931, Page 31

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Two costumes worn by Adele Astaire in “The Band Wagon.” Left, @ white georgette gown embroidered with strass stars and a scarfawrap of plain georgette trimmed with one white fox cuff. Right, evening gown of chartreuse lace with matching jacket. White With Navy Blue Favored by Smart Women at Luncheon—Hats Tilted at New Angles—Felt and Tailored Chiffon Suits and Printed En-| sembles Popular. HITE with navy blue was the Suede Rival Straw— |ostrich plume around one side and choice of fashionable women | falling almost to the shoulder, worn at lunching in New York last |the roof with a luncheon costume of week. A delightfully cool restaurant, with its tinkling inen chair coverings and , Js a pleasing background the Summer clothes chosen by women lunching in town these days of | | dressed woman could wish. late June. Hats showed new influence. Many of them were of felt, and designed so that it was impossible, in their wearing, to do anything but tilt them at more ex- | treme angles than those favored a month ago. Felts, dull white velvets, and suede hats are making an early appearance this Summer. An Empress Eugenle hat of white suede was worn with a navy blue silk suit. A sailor of dark blue felt showed the latest mode of trimm'ng a saflor, the perky little feather at the side. Another place during the last week has been the rendezvous of many so- ciety women in town for a bit of shop- ping and lunch, and there we saw the sheer white jacket; worn with a dark skirt much in evidence. An interesting version of this idea showed Vionnet's influence, in the wrapped effect of the white georgette jacket with its draped top, tight-fitting hipline and long sleeves that had no armholes. The skirt was black satin. A knitted cap of black chenille effectively complsted the cos- tume, and it is probably unnecessary to add that the cap was worn very far back on the head, like & skull cap. Chiffon woolens are making a re- markable showing in town. Many of them are in patterns that have the ap- pearance of printed chiffons, with the unobtrusive plaids disiinctive. The choice of those lunching at one roof on the hot days of last week ran to the printed silk or chiffon jacket suit and tailored suits of chiffon in the new flat crepe finish. In this material the Jackets are made double. ‘The 1860 hat with the limpid, thin tailored chiffon, was one of the smartest hats seen this Summer. The plume did not give the hat of rough straw the formality that plumes of a bygone fash- ion era seemed to impart to hats. It was as casual looking as any well Bath Room Is Full Of Lovely Color ‘There are all sorts of attractive sets of glassware for the bath room. Some consist of two tumblers, a soap dish and a small covered urn-like dish for bath salts. This salts dish is really like a bonbon dish. That is probably the best description. In the modern bath room there is often an inset soap dish over the tub and the wash basin. But the glass soap dish may also be given a place to hold one’s pet toilet soap. These glass sets come in amber, ruby, green, black and white glass—sometimes, too, in blue and rose and violet. So you can find one to fit in with any color scheme you are carrying out. Bath rooms are often not fitted with window curtains. But sometimes win- dow curtains to match the bath cu tains are chosen. In one really beau- tiful bath room finished in palest green tile windows and shower were cur- tained in vellow, with a moire finish. ‘The window curtaining was water proof, and, of course, the shower bath cur- tain was of rubber, with the outside fin- ished in watered yellow in a rich and beautiful shade. ‘The new decorated bath curtain gives a most attractive touch of color to the bath room. It is sometimes in res, sometimes in stripes, sometimes in the watered finish and sometimes, of course, quite plain, in any desired color. Extreme left, white satin_ slipper with silver straps and silver bead embroidery. Left, white faille with woven damask sotin design’ in rose, silver and gold bands, silver heel. Above, sandals of Above, dark brown kid slippers trimmed with evelets bound with swhite kid. Right, white kid slippers with elastic inserts in the back. Extreme right, shoes of white kid and vellow erocheted string, a cool type for warm blue, red and brown lame trimmed with tiny gold kid stitched bands. New Shoe Styles W’HAT is new in shoes and what shall we wear with certain types of dress, are ques- tions frequently asked by our readers. As a general answer to these questions we mention six shoes that are the last words in footwear styles. With white evening dresses wear white satin or white faille shoes. The newest ones feature silver straps, silver heels, bead embroidery and printed satin damask motifs. Evening dresses of flowered chiffon and gowns in dark colors require the sandal of lame in rich colorings. Brown and ‘white ensembles are given the finishing touch by shoes of dark brown kid orna- mented with eyelets bound in white. For light colored semi- sports dresses there is the white kid shoe with an elastic in the back to give comfort in walking, and the kid shoe with inserts of crocheted string. In stockings adhere to the dusty shades, those cold beige tones for general wear. Pale sun-tans for the evening and a few bright colors for sports, if you are daring, and every one knows the important place that color occupies in fashion at the moment. Wicker Furniture. Wicker furniture takes on new im- portance when given & coat of enamel paint, and an unpainted wicker chair that would be considered appropriate only for the weranda or garden nook may be made suitable for living room, | study or bed enameling. : Net Frills. Net is used in narrow frillings to trim dresses of flat crepe. Net is used for afternoon and evening dresses of the picturesque type. With our fash- jons this year for flares, net it an ex- cellent te It is sometimes made room by this simple gafleta. slip. Seen lunching in New York. A short-sleeved suit of navy blue flat_crepe has a red and beige plaid linen blouse with wide cuffs and revers. The hat above is navy blue, with ecrocheted crown and straw brim. It is trimmed with a bow of white peauw d'ange to match the two white crepe tassels on the dress. It is used for | sash and red cherries. in white organdy embroidered in Season. BY MARY MARSHALL. GENERATION ago young girls were frequently reminded b their mothers that “you could tell a real lady by her gloves and shoes.” The idea being that no matter how exquisite one’s dress and hat, jewelry and coiffure, one could not quite make the grade of gentflity with soiled or shabby gloves or untidy shoes. The woman |who was not & real lady, one inferred. | Just lacked the fimer feelings that would | make her attentive to these details. The old-fashioned distinction be- |tween “real ladies” and the rest of womankind is rather meaningless to- day, but the fact remains that atten- tion to gloves and shoes is vitally im- portant. You attend to these matters | not, perhaps, because you want to im- press the world that you are a perfect |lady, but because you would be un- comfortable if you did not and because |you know that these things are essential | to smartness. * ok k% | I! the long continued vogue of the short skirt was of no other signifi- cance it did drive home the importance of well clad feet and ankles. the post-war decade gloves undoubtedly were negelcted, especially in this coun- try where the gloveless fad was carried |much further than it was in Europe. | But the wave of casual negligence has | spent, its force, and gloves are reas- suming their place of importance in the well dressed woman's wardrobe. No account of an important social event is complete nowadays without some reference to the sorts of gloves worn by the representative women pres- ent. Gloves of some sort are almost as important with the spectator sports costume as with the daytime dress for town wear. At important sports events in Paris woman spectators wear gloves long enough to wrinkle over the wrist with long-sleeved dresses, and gloves long enough to extend part way up to the elbow with short sleeves. The smart Parisian chooses white or light toned beige or ecru gloves of the hand- stitched sort and those with biacl stitching _are considered especially smart. They are heavy gloves that give the impression of being a trifle large for the hand that wears them. e S sttute o more, ex- t possible sul uf = pensive kid gloves. They have been accepted this season on their own merit and often cost quite as much as gloves of kid or doeskin. Usually the fabric is made to imitate the dull, soft surface of undressed kid, doe- skin or chamols but there is & new Cotton Gloves THE wearing of bll{ckmcotu:l: gioves is a new fashion mushroom growth. Its Imm- tor was Nicollet, the Parls glove fe* elove mehgrxg-firfl‘z' fabric glove 3 Amre:icl' has adopted it Wwith thusi 5 enu:e! :’;‘efi good gloves of this Summer it is of the heavy hand- stitched VIM”!;. :ng‘ltr'i:w:ob b:f all funereal D) e abed gloved the versed. Whil originally as a glove to costume, the cal to wear over i sleeves, like those lored chiffon suit or dress, they have become importan town wear. tai- in u‘t.h.t it for Attention to These and to Shoes Is Vitally Im portant—Open Mesh Stockings Worn at All Hours and Mesh Gloves Are Novelty. Inconspicuous Types Preferred This| Summer days. A Dress of evelet embroidered white organdy, with red velvet The chorus in the background is dressed red. Gloves Again in Picture {type of fabric gloves this season. of | | French origin of course, that is made of silk mesh like stockings. These are worn for afterncon or informal evening | occasions and have the advantage that | rings and bracelets worn beneath them | are quite visible. * ok % MESH stockings are no longer a mere fad. They have been adopt- ed by well dressed women everywhere as a definite Summer fashion, quite likely to continue in favor through Autumn and Winter. There are very fine silk mesh stockings for afternoon | and evening, more substantial ones for | | street wear if you like, and lisle mesh | stockings for sports. Many of the | stores are showing colored mesh stock- ings for sports wear—green, blue, and | other colors to go with the dress trim- ming or accessories. But generally speaking stockings remain inconspicuous both in color and | design. Fine clocks are about the only trimming that well-dressed women | favor and as a rule they choose stock- | ings of inconspicuous beige tones. Only | rarely does one see stockings of a dis- tinctly brown or gunmetal cast at present though these darker tones may be revived with the cooler weather. Shoes too have a tendency this Sum- mer to be inconspicuous. Beige shoes | are worn for the street even with dark dresses. Brown shoes with beige stock- ings are favored by many French women and there is a distinct vogue for shoes combining brown and white, most appropriate with the smart brown and white silk print or the brown aad white linen suit. White shoes ar® worn everywhere, but in the estimation of many well dressed women they are more appropriate for resort or country wear than for street wear in town. Tables Are Small And Convenient ‘The occasional table—that is what the interior decorators call the small table that is placed here, there and everywhere in our houses. It is a table small enough to be easily moved around, from place to place, wherever we want to use it. Today it may be used for flowers in | {the porch. that it is small, easily moved, and vari- ously useful. For use in Summer, on porch and the garden, there are specially d tables. They are, for one thing, wea proof. Yet they are not cumbersome. They still fall under the ci of occasional tables. They can be moved about from lawn to veranda and back again without straining the muscles or harming the tables. One such table that is endlessly use- n ed These shoes were seen in ew York shops. Fashion Cable. PARIS, June 24. EDNESDAY races at Auteuil brought out many white embroidered muslin dresses with skirts reaching to the ground, cap sleeves or little capelets and double or triple lums, One seen had a bustle cascade in the back in light green. Several of the mannequins, who wore these frocks. wore no stockings. Agnes pancake hats with side latches were outstanding, especially in black velvet. Many feather trim- mings on hats, including glyc- erined ostrich and willow plumes trailing to the shoulder. Grand Steeplechase brought out green in the middle shades, fol- lowing black and white; also a good deal of cherry red in en- sembles. Many pastel blues szen. Small black sunshades with white borders take logical place with tiny one-sided hats. Canes also carried. Smart royal blue velvet jacket with rolled braided upstanding collar and the same trimming used around the arm- hole was worn with long white dress and small royal blue hat trimmed with white Saint Cyr coque feathers. Many dresses had skirts actually trafling on the grass all around. Muslin, organdy and velvet outstanding, also many changeable effects. With Eyelets. Hats of embroidered eyelet linen have made their appearance. They may be of white or pastel tone and are made with a not very wide, floppy brim and are usually banded in with | ribbon. ‘Then there are corsage flowers of white eyelet embroidery. The petals are cut with raw edges and put to- gether with yellow or black centers. Eyelet embroidered blouses are in excellent style. They are daintily made and trimmed, often, with valen- clennes lace. But they are durable, 80 far as tubbing goes, and theréfore & boon for the Summer wardrobe. ionably dressed women lunching in New York. X 3\ \ Left, pervenche blue goun old-gold sati ening coat with with chartreu: Broderick in “The Band W agon. ‘ Display of New embroidered with steel beads. Ri, chiffon gown of the same shade, h‘z& and brown ribbon. These costumes were worn by Helen Fashions At Colonial Exposition | PARIS, June 24. | | AT the recent opening of the bulld- ing | Couture was the center of the stage | and the designing trade was out in| force. Displays of each branch of the industry, from fabric to completed gowns, were of great interest. The cen- | | tral rotunda had a center display of a single frock from each house, the wlllsi having groups from various houses. | ‘The outstanding note was that this| center display was entirely in delicate | tones of pink, with materials varying | | from satin, which was in the majority, | through chiffon and georgette, to or- | gandy. With the exception of one| | gown from Lanvin, all skirts cleared the floor, and most of them were slightly irregular in outline. | Another outstanding note was the unusual coiffures of the mannequins. Spit curls, feather effects, puffs, buns and multitudinous curls recalled the chignons of our grandmothers. So uni- versal was this movement that it is one to consider with real gravity. The complication of hairdressing is quite in ' keeping with the formality of the eve- | ning_mode, but with the present-day simplicity of our daytime clothes, it hardly seems possible that these clab- orations can be accomplished with our own hair. Are we to experience, then, | a wave of false hair? And bustles, per- haps, and crinolines, and all the other | | “props” of other days? There seems | to be more than a chance of it. Indeed, | in the bits of gossip that were float- | ing about at the exposition, the chats with the various designers who were | gt it seems sure that we are to faced by great surprises in the Au- gust collections. And if they are half | as radical as the conversations sug- gested, it is just as well to be warned |and prepared for the shock which seems to be just over the horizon. Patou’s showing of Winter hats is | | marked by the cleverest of modernized | Robin Hood effects, tiny hats set jaunt- | ily on one side, with a narrow brim | rolling up snugly at the back and side, | coming out almost straight in front, | and with tiny bright feathers placed flat and, oh, so pertly, at the sides. hunter's green with a narrow ribbon of dark green grosgrain and two red- Another, in hers. of white pail- lasson trimmed with a black ribbon and black feather was noted recently at the Ritz at luncheon time. The suit worn with it was of heavy shantung with a blouse of organdy trimmed with tiny frills of Valenciennes lace down the front and around the round, col- larless throat line. The suit had wide lapels, so wide as to be almost revers, and was snugly fitted under the dom- ble-breasted line. At Armencnville recently the warm weather has brought out unusual crowds. The advantages of the res- taurant type of dancing frock created by a number of the dressmakers have been apparent. The satin costumes sponsored by Vionnet and Patou were in evidence, those of the former de- signer changed from the original pink and black to white and black, with the modest strap-back decolletage coming to a round turned-over collar and gath- ered below with the long. full, slightly uneven skirt. Patou's frock had an ankle-length skirt. D. L. M. Chiffon Coélnéss. Chiffon frocks for hot Summer days are delightfully cool and comfortabie. ‘They are, moreover, good They can be made with long and still are cool. They can be bought for very small price in many pretty patterns and styles. And they aren't a bit difficuit to make if the home dressmaker takes advantage of machine picot edging— which finishes off many chiffon edges most attractively. I A sleeves Stripes. Stripes, running either up and down or crosswise, make smart Summer dresses. They are lovely for tennis or golf or for just every-day Summer One, in a soft deep beaver fur, was in wear in linen or cotton’ suiting.

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