Evening Star Newspaper, December 28, 1930, Page 43

THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. G, DECEMBER 28, 1930—PART THRER, 11 Footwear to Fit Every Occasion More Important Than Ever Smart Mode Calls for Many Shoes, While Longer Skirts Have Not Made Feet Any Less Conspicuous in Fashion—Ideas De- veloped for Palm Beach—Influence of - New Suits. BY MARY MARSHALL. EING well shod these days is a much more complicated busi- ness t was a generation ago, when most women were satisfied if they had a pair of “best” shoes, a peir of every day shoes, pair of house shoes, evening slippers and special shoes for any sort of out- door spor; that they pursued. The evewyday shoes were usally the | best shoes after they had grown shabby, the house shoes were quite likgly to be the evening slippers after they had ,grown a bit shabby and run down. Now we have shoes for every occasion and shoes to go with various costumes in our wardrobe, and we know that there 1s no possibility of looking well dressed unless our shoes are well chosen. A EVENWG slippers are, of course, high heeled. Any thought that longer skirts would bring lower heels was sim- ply a bad guess, though, of course, the woman who wears lower heels as a mat- ter of personal preference or principle may console herself that with a long flowing skirt the effect is not bad. You may wear sandals or pumps for evening and both these styles may be bought in dyeable materials such as silk crepe, faille, moire, satin or brocade. Some of the most attractive of these are finished with gold or silver trim, which is not affected by the dye when mm.negommmwhmm with your evening dress. ‘You know, of course, that practically all shoe dealers are willing to have your shoes dyed to sult at a very reasonable cost, so that specially colored evening ’l;lvperl are no longer a prohibitive xury. Some women prefer the perfectly elassic lines of the untrimmed pump or sandal, but for those who like ornamen- tation there are clasps and buckles and bows that really do detract from the apparent lenztl: o: -‘lol:' foot. AMONG new shoe fashions promised for Palm Beach there are 4-eyelet oxfords of white duck that may be dyed or left white. With the navy blue suit tha for town wear there v:u-}r of beige calf, with & very small le at the middle of the front. P 4 pumps cvenlfi are mad to match the dress, with the heel and bow of & more vibrant tone to the dress. Thus an Careful Manager Should Be Able to Find Out Just How Much She Ought to Spend or Save. Making Schedule. How much money did you spend for your clothes in 19307 The chances are that you cannot|&mong give anything more than an approxi- (% figure in answer to that question, ure, save for the help it will give you in making your plans for your dress jtures during the year ‘o come. spent more than a fair propor- your income on your clothes d were still not satisfied with your carefully as you might have done. If you spent less than the amount that budget makers consider suitable for in- dividuals having your income and were nevertheless conscious of being well dressed, then you should pat yourself on the back, and promise yourself this year some of the luxuries of dress that you have never had before. Fifteen cent of the total income makers in some cases 18 per cent or even 20 per cent is justifiable. The woman who At top, clocked sports stockings of :ilk and wool. They come in dark shades’ of all the smart colors. Below, stockings for_afternoon, leather 1usds and velvet handbags and black stockings for street. and "velt in|if The flaring lines of the stitcched suede handbag at left are carried out in the skirt of the dress with which it is carried. The shoes match the handbag. Both are banded with dark- er kid. The soleil hat is stitched to carry out the lines of the rest of the costume. At right, shoes, handbag and hat matck. Shoes are of leather, handbag is of suede, hat is of felt. But they are cut and stitched in corresponding fashion. heel straps fill a real need in the pres- ent dress program, providing as they do a comfortable, smart sort of footcear to go with the pajama costumes that many women have adopted for all but the more formal indoor wear in their own homes. [4 (Copyright. 1930.) takes much glenure in dressing well may reasonably spend some of the money for dress t women who take no special pleasure in dress would spend for recreation or pleasure. Then, t00, the business woman whose success in business to some extent on dressing well may fairly sider at least a small percentage her dress expenses as & business expense, deduct- ing them from her net income before apportioning her other e:xenm. After you have estimated the amount that you may fairly expect to spend for dress during the next 12 months, the next thing on the program is to figure out how this should be divided the various fnnenl types of rel. That sort of thing may seem like a great waste of time—especially u have what the fashion reporters politely call a strictly limited dress allowance. But it really is most help- ful and may aid you enormously in lpenmnm g your money good ad- e. good way to go about it is to rule of writing paper into two columns. At the top of one write “Winter” and at the top of the other write “Summer.” Then along the left- hand side of the paper list the five or six general groups of things you have to buy—such as coats, suits, etc., hats, shoes, stockings, day-time dresses, eve ning dresses, gloves and other acces- sories, underclothes, jewelry. Command of the new Canadian Pa- cific liner, Empress of Britain, is to be given to Capt. R. C. Latta, until re- cently in command of the Empress of Australia. Below that, off- Card Boxes Help Her Keep Track I suppose most of us don't make New Year resolutions. I am sure most of us don't keep them. But there are certain very valuable decisions that we house- wives must make once in a while. We must take stock of ourselves, of our jobs. We must decide what we afe going to do to make our work easier or more interesting. We must find ways and means for ge things ter running schedule. The most importa: home-seeking woman's course, the iness and her family. Many rather bad man- agers, 80 far as finances go, are delight- ful mothers, charming wives. But where finances are limited it i8 almost necessary for house-mother to manage well, so far as money goes, if she is to make her family happy and contented. undue worry about money, the knowl:dge of debt and obligations unpaid, can do a lot to up- set ]e;en the best natured group in the ‘world. It isn’t only money, when you come to think of it, thai must be visely managed by the clever housewife. She must pay not only the bills that her family runs up at -f:oer'l, butcher’s, baker’s and dressmaker’s, not to men- tion telephone, office, garage and radio supply store. But she must pay up the social debts they incur through- out the year. She must really give party for P-ng 1f their soclal way is to be free of debts. And some of the card index boxes and note books and diaries and all that sort of thi that you find so lluringly displayed now in the shops ally help the mother and housewifé in keeping track of all these family obligations. Bome housewives have a real mania for making lists. They make lists of their friends, their friends’ birthdays and telephone numbers and house ad- dresces, and of the calls they have mad- and received. ‘There are certain lists that every housewife would do well to keep, and the best way to preserve these is on the cards kept in a small box that may be kept conveniently on or within the desk. A list of workmen, dealers and specialty shops is certainly worth keep- ing and will save a lot of needless brain racking. Lists of household linens, blankets, etc., with the dates and places of purchases, are worth while if kept up to date, and very valuable for future reference is a list of menus for holiday dinners and party refreshments. What Do I::yes Tell About Us? Most of us have preconceived notions on the subject of eyes. Some of them we may have gained from ar fic- tion where there seems to be a definite rule that the guileless young girl with a pure mind and a trusting heart should have sky blue eyes. They may be & soft brown like those of a young gazelle—but who ever heard of a sweet young thing like that having green eyes or snapping black eyes? Green eyes seem very generally to be- long either to the scheming villainess or the dangerous vamp. If they belos to the heroine of the story you m: be sure that she is described as a whimsical sort of creature, witty and slightly erratic. 1 biack eyes sometimes belong to the villainess and sometimes to the vamp of the story, though black-eyed vamps are not so much in fashion now as they were a generation or .wo ago. Green eyes or languorous bfown eyes seem to go better with the vamps of today. N‘fi.lr:m’eyed men are generous, rather ine! to be flirtatious, and at times fickle,” says one writer on the subject, addii “though the deeper Liue the eyes are, the more stanch and true the owner will be.” That seems to sc- cord perfectly with popular feeling on the subject. Did you ever read a novel in which the man with very deep blue eyes was not loyal, kind and true? Gray eyes and steely blue eyes have long been associated with the intel- T of men wome keen and brilliant intel “brainy,” though, as a matter of fact, a woman dean of a well known wom- an's college, a woman of extreme'y in- tellectual type, has brown eyes of a very limpid sort, and one of the most dangerous little flirts I know of, who has an uncanny way of making every A A 3 r b iiow; it of meas il _silk and colored stones for afternoom and evening shoes. ~of & steel i ; mlaint“ 'he. mt.wu':t' nm ..‘.% to bave a glint of coquetry about them. Above, at left, suede and kid com- bined in brown shoes and handbag to wear with brown frock and coat. Center, black kid shoes and handbag, trimmed Wwith bands of contrasting col- or. Right, muff and collar of brown leather, worn with tweed coat. The small hat matches the collar and muff, and the whole ensemble is an excellent one for rainy or snowy weather. Estimating Rules by Which These Features of Family Life May Be Con- sidered in Estimates, Especially by Those With Moderate Incomes. If you live on what is usually known as a moderate income or possibly on an income that is less than moderate, you probably feel that you have few or no luxuries, and that practically all your income is spent for necessities. Yet even poor folk nowadays have some luxuries, comforts and conveniences, many of which would have been out of the reach of the richest folk two or three decades ago. Under the head of food luxuries one should consider not only table delicacies and expensive cuts of meat, but an; ready prepared, canned or cooked tood{ that might be less expensive if pre- pared at home. Luxuries of dress in- clude any garment or accessory bought merely for the sake of style, trimmings and fine materials. Shelter luxuries include, according to the experts, pri- vate bath room, single bed rooms, as well as living in a house or apartment that is in any way larger than abso- lutely necessary to health and decency. Other so-called luxuries include candy, tobacco, flowers, social clubs, gifts to friends, entertaining, house tele- phone, taxi fares, car fares and auto- mobile expenses when used save for purely business purposes. Going to the movies, buying a radio, having your picture taken, buying picture post cards, serving your meals on anything but the cheapest dishes, using perfumes or cos- metics are all luxuries that have come to be taken for granted by most of us. Luxuries And so when you come to consider | your own expenses you will see that you are actually rather well off, even though you have had to count your pennies carefully. You might read volumes on the sub- ject of family budgets and you might listen to dozens of lectures and attend conferences on the subject, but all that you need know in order to work out your own budget for the coming year may be set down in very brief form. As a matter of convenience all family nses should be divided into the owing heads: 1. Food, which includes ice, but does not include fuel. 3. Shelter, which includes rent, or if you own your own house, the interest on your investment, interest on mort- gage, taxes and insurance on the house, as well as commutation and car fare to and from business. 3. Clothing, which includes repairs, but does not include laundry expenses. 4. Operating expenses, which includes money paid for household help, house and cleaning supplies, insurance on fur- niture, heat, light, laundry and all fur- nishings and supplies that are neces- sary to the maintenance of health and a fair amount of comfort. 5. Bavings, which should include life insurance premiums, and if you are buying a house on a building-and-loan- association plan, the amount of your ex fol 6. Advancement. money that is spent for pleasure, recre- ation, education, sociability and fur- nishings that are not strictly utilitarian. Usually doctor’s bills and dentist’s bills are also included under this head. Just what proportion of your income you spend under these various groups you yourself must decide, but for the average family on a moderate income the following percentages may be taken at least for de: Food, 25 per cent; shelter, 20 per :iint: clozhing,hg cent; operating, per cent, Wi e 25 per cent remaining is divided be- tween development and savings. Beauty’s Best Resolve One Become Attractive by Observing Tested Rules—Fresh Air Imparts Health— Affectations Are Al- ways Detrimental. BY CHARLOTTE C. WEST, M. D. ‘There is one New Year resolution which you should make, and, having made, should keep. Resolve to be just as attractive as you know how to be during the coming year. There are several rules which you will have to observe in order to achieve CapaBPToF sohaiing dsepiy. thus min: capacity for , thus min- By o it 8 e y , w|:.u“cl| the color and clearness of your tissues A bright, fresh color and clearness of the and skin are the results mainly SR SR S of com| 01 R il sommme, T your skin if 1t ulm led and blotched. Becondly, av fectations. There are many women who are never for a single minute unconsclous of them- selves. Every act, every motion, every speech, is for the sake of effect. If you are one of them, you are never at ease, are never characterized eedom of motion, uncons sclousness of self, which an artist will lies at the foundation of all equally important to be while you acquire physical perfection. To make every movement of the body y, you must infuse the spirit of joy to everything you do, whether it is work, play or cut-and-dried gymnastics. In walking you may cultivate rhyth- legs and gling man she meets fall in love Wwith her, Should Seek to| time by concentrating the e arms, then those of the %hm exercises allow freer and step, keepin l'uu:lu of Dancing 1is, of course, the most marked example of appeal made by rhythmic movements. Every should be made to dance. If you dan you will acquire grace which you never lose. Even though you don't take it up seri- ously, you will acquire an ease of man- d it that will equip you fic a1l . ch has been l‘nlndw about guarding against overweight, but it is just as im- portant to take safeguards a pinch of cayenne pepper or one- fourth teaspoonful of papriks, regular payment that is appli o err:lclml. | ‘This includes all girl | f ce, will | at Gay Colors Are » On Way Back Brighter colors are predicted for day- time clothes during January and Feb- ruary, not only at the resorts, but in town and city where dull dark colors so | often prevall until the nearer approach of Spring. Sometimes the touch of color appears a8 a third party to the black and white combination, turquoise, tomato red and various shades of green being appro- priate for this Blllrpose Colored felt hats may be chosen to wear with the various brown-beige-gray range of Winter furs as an acceptable way of brightening the Winter land- scape. A turquoise felt hat is smart with black and brown furs, while the lighter furs of gray or beige cast are more effectively worn with lighter, soft- er tones, such as the new orchid or coral. Orange felt hats are effcctive with brown furs and hats of a distinct tomato red have already frequently been chosen to go with fur coats of various smart peltries. No one would care to make a definite prediction that gray is to be a fashion- able leader during the coming Spring, but it has made its appearance here and there in the fashion.picture this Win- ter, carrying with 1t in spite of its un- popularity within recent years an air of undoubted smartness. Occasionally—very occasionally—one sees an evening dress of pale gray that in spite of its modest Quaker hue stands out in striking contrast among dresses of more vivid tones. Dark oxford gray cloth is the chosen material for some of the smartest of the Palm Beach suits— and may run as a not very close rival with navy blue in popularity later on. Add to this the fact that gray gloves have been sponsored recently by women of undoubted smartness, and that gun- metal and other gray tones are running a close race with brown and beige for stockings, and one has at least some foundation on which to rest expecta- tions of & revival of gray. BEAUTY CHATS BY EDNA KENT FORBES. Face Strapping. When you begin to analyze the signs by which you tell whether & woman is 20, 30 or 45 it comes down to & ques- tion of whether the contours of her face are firm or not. n_they are not there is & droopy look to all the muscles; the woman may look ill, tired, nervous or old. When muscles lose their firm- ness wrinkles result, and wrinkles are very hard to smooth out. But weak or tired muscles can be strapped up with enormous benefit. And ou can learn how to do this yourself. ou may have to have a few facial treatments from a professional to watch how it is done, but if you can't afford them I'm sure you can easily learn how without. ‘Take on old sheet and rip it into rib- bons about four inches wide. Begin your treatment by washing the face with soap and very warm water and by hold- ing an old towel or & cloth wrung from hot water over it for a minute or two. Then rub on massage cream (not cleansing cream), give a quick rubbing, just enough to work some of the cream down into the pores. Then take one of the long muslin strips and strap up the ace. Start by holding an end of the strip the top of the head. Bring the -mg down under the chin and over the ‘The bandage should two or three times under the chin and be fairly any tendency to frown. Lie down and press upward and back- ward on the facial muscles, your hands, of course, pressing t the band- ‘This motion, however, ~ AW With the sleeveless evening frock gloves that reach above the turn of the elbow are usually worn, though shorter pull-on gloves, coming only half way between elbow and wrist, may be choseti. The frock in the sketch is of sapphire satin with ring buckle at shoulder and belt. Rules for Home Maker Things That Should Be Added to Equipment to Make Rooms More Attractive— Guest Quarters Re- quire Attention in Some Details. It’s the open season for New Year resolutions—and in case your list is running & bit short this year, have you considered these: I hereby resolve: 1. To replace that rickety chair in the corner of the living room with a new comfortable one that will har- monize with the rest of the furnishings. 2. To d a lamp to the hallway that's always too dark. 3. To repair the footstool that went out of commission when Junior jumped up and down on it. 4. To make my guest room a really hospitable place, not a final resting spot for “hand-me-downs” discarded from every other part of the house. 5. To remember that I spend most of my time in my home and, since furni- ture in general is now at the lowest rice levels in more than 10 years, this a good time to furnish it the way I've always wanted it furnished. Abave, some of the new glo LM‘ style this year, but little var) d .the glove counters y strapped with silver kid, worn with of suede, is decorated with & - Of course, every homemaker two or three items that should to the list to make it fit her 3 ‘Take the living room. coffee table, now very much is the only addition needed to ordinary room an unusual one. Perhaps you may still have a big table, stan deflantly in the center of the room, spoiling the whole effect— when you move it out, &e other lg)remm and m a g ensem| u ) new piece! It has been done. Consider the bed room. Even if you want a new bed or a new vanity and can't afford one, that's no reason why the room should be left “as is.” Get a new boudoir lamp, or & tricky sewing cabinet, or an screen made g{g w-fi! rtn-per. or a small but interest- chest. When the New Year resolutions are compiled give your home, as well as yourself, a fresh start in 1931. air Wisdom. Brushing the hair thoroughly and giving it plenty of air are two very good ways of keeping it in good condi- tion. And as warmer weather comes around, remember this theory of giving the hair air. Let it hang loosely about the shoulders while you sit in an open window whenever you can. When you wash it, dry it in the open air. Give it a sun bath from time to time. You will find this treatment of utmost benefit to the hair.