Evening Star Newspaper, October 26, 1930, Page 51

' THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C, OCTOBER 26, 1930—PART THREE. 11 'Evening Dresses of Varying Types Indicate Transitional Stage / - ] ' Strong Tendency To-! ward Those Inspired| by Romantic Cos- tume Periods of Past| Appears—Made In- teresting by Ruffles and Flounces, Frills and Bow Knots—| Chiffon, Satin and, Velvet Are Leading| Materials. . seldom has it been more perplex- | ing to make up one’s mind when | it comes to choosing an evening gown | for some particular occasion. For beautiful as are the dresses designed for dining, dancing and formal evening wear, it is nt to the thoughtful observer that jons at present are in & transitional stage. ‘The woman who wants to select an evening dress that will do for many | months, that will possibly be in good | style next semson, is confronted with many questions. The long or very long skirt is correct for formal occasions but some of the French dressmakers are also sponsoring an ankle-length evening dress that is actually newer than the very long skirt—and that is moreover more becoming to certain ‘women. Some of the French dressmakers have been enthusiastically sponsoring the raised walstline, placed an inch or more above “normal” but no one of | course knows whether this empire waistline will survive in the race for favor with the defined lower waistline. e 'HERE is a strong tendency toward dresses inspired by the romantic costume periods of the past—dresses of the picturesuge sort that please us in much the same way that furniture of a distinct period pleases us. On the other hand there is a reaction in favor of the more sophisticated type of evening dress that holds itself aloof from past fashions and prefers to be strictly modern. Dresses of the former sort are made interesting by ruffies and flounces, frills and bow knots arranged usually in & symmetrical manner, while dresses of the latter sort have fullness arranged by drapery and manipulation of & less symmetrical sort. The very slender woman is wise in BY MARY MARSHALL. ‘ ELDOM have evening dresses been more varied or more charming | than they are this Autumn, and | dresses bust and under the arms that also give width and fullness to the slender woman. ok % OME of the new dresses are held at the shoulders with the narrow- [ o™ est of shoulder straps, a mere cord that leaves the line of the shoulders and arms substantially unbroken. Sometimes there is a narrow shoulder strap with a large bow of the material posed at the left strap, one looped side of the bow extending upward and the other downward. | The wide 1330 decolletage is found on some of the new evening dresses, | sometimes with a bertha extending | across the front of the bodice forming | short caps over the sl and usually extended in the baok to follow the lines of a very lowscut bodice. The effect is of Victorian demureness at the front” and of twentieth-century sophistication at the back. With the all-white dress you ‘wear a belt of twisted velvet of bright green, American beauty red or one of the brighter pastel blues. Augusta- bernard set the fashion for a twisted girdle of this sort accompanied by a scarf made of the same velvet. A sim- ple white dress worn with bright green girdle and scarf is especially attractive. The large bow placed at the f~wt of the left shoulder is decldedly smart. A somewhat smaller bowknot may be placed at the front of both shoulder straps. Colored gardenias may be placed at the front of the left shoulder strap. Pink gardenias so placed give an ac- sevuble touch of color to the all-black ress. ma * % ox % IFFON, satin and velvet are the leading materials for evening dresses this Autumn. Georgette, lace and supple metal fabrics are also im- portant. Stiff Lyon velvet 1 & close rival to the Aumle chiffon velvet. Very fine black lace is appropriate for the younger woman as well as for the older woman, and is sometimes worn over & slip of flesh-colored satin -black evening gowns are as much in favor as ever. The all-white dress, 4 as a foll for colored jewelry, is gaining favor. Then there are the jewel tones —ruby red, deep sapphire blue and emerald—and the soft, rather dull pas- tel tones. Soft shades of pink continue to find favor with younger women and deeper shades of rose, ranging from the lightest pink to & deep American 9007021.0.1000. L 11811l sanaareennn) A band of black hare fur trims the skirt of this simple evening dress of black chiffon. Jewels and Gowns Jewelry takes an important place in the evening costume. You must realize this even though you are extremely con- servative in your use of jewelry and limit yourself to two ornaments or even .. ‘You may feel that you look best with no jewelry save a pair of the new, very long pendant earrings, or a single string of pearls or brilliants, or a bracelet with a ring to match, or perhaps a large brooch and matching pair of earrings. But if you are to look decidedly well in your new evening costume the jewelry must be carefully cone sidered. If you already have the jewelry then you should choose the evening gown accordingly. Rubles are in the ascendency this Autumn, and the rather simply con- trived dress of white satin or crepe is frequently chosen as a foil for them. Pale, pastel tones may also be worn ef- fectively as a background for these love- ly red stones, and a rather daring con- y | trast is achieved by wearing rubies on one of the brighter pastel greens. Pearls are at their best with velvet, crystals and diamonds are most effective when worn with black, while turquoise orna- ments are also effective with black. ‘Turquoise blue and a paler shade of greenish blue known as robin’s egg are favored for evening dresses this Au- tumn, and are especially becoming to sun-tanned skin. Long suede gloves of turquoise or robin's egg are sometimes worn effectively with the all-black dress. \Follow Lead of Paja- mas in Passing Out of the Boudoir—Made in Rich Colors and Most of Them Have High Heels. UBT as pajamas have passed out of the boudoir for living room loung- | ing, for the beach and intimate dinners | at home, so mules follow their lead. If you have a snappy pair of mules packed away somewhere, thinking you will save | them for bed-room wear when visiting somewhere or other, get them out and beauty. (Copyright, 1930.) Pale p;nl; chiffon is worn with look them over. Chances are they are wine.red ‘he pink satin slippers m':'fl.u and bows of wine-colored velvet, dressed the relationship between the gown and | BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. “ OTHER, Barbara Loomis has an- other sweater dress. It's green.” “That’s nice.” “What's it nice for? She's a stuck- up little pig, and she’s got about two dozen dresses now.” “I don’t think she’s a stuck-up little pig. Your crowd isn't very nice to her, 50 she's probably just a little quiet.” “We were nice to her. But when she | came here, new, she began to give her- self airs. We just couldn’t stand her.” "Who's we' “Vera and—" “Oh!” “What are you saying ‘Oh’ for?” “I was just thinking. Vera sort of bosses that school crowd of yours, doesn’t she?” ";Vhy. nol"!‘l “I mean when you play thi she has to be the whole show, does:‘!t!she? | I've seen a few things. And she has |8 lot of clothes, Vera has.” but not nearly so many as that | e | stuck-up Barbara. Honestly, Mother, Mules for Bridge Wear just the thing for what is called “bridge” wear. | Bridge footgear is nothing in the world but mules, made in rich colors that in no way suggest the bed room. Rich purples, reds, blue, shiny black, gold and silver abound. And with them, | when you are hostess at a bridge party, you wear pajamas, of course. Most of the new out-of-the-boudoir mules have aristocratic high heels, are | unusual in their cut and decoration and | as_easy to slip into as the proverbial | old shoe. | 'The same mules are quite suitable to | intimate dinners at home. The well | gowned hostess this Winter will have | at least one pair of rather sumptuous | pajamas with wide trousers that sug- | gest_skirts, and with them mules are much more appropriate footgear than evening slippers. It you have only one pair, gleam- ing black and gold or silver ones are probably the most satisfactory, though | there is no reason why you shouldn’t | indulge in glassy scarlet, bright green, | penetrating blue or any other gay color you like. While the well dressed woman still | wears quiet footwear on the street, at | home it is quite in order to be as dressy as you like, s vivid in your tastes and | a individual as you please. A group of the new bridge and din- | ner mules show varied designs. Some | have their toes free, to show off gold or silver stockings you may wear with them. Others have quaint high tips, others unusual strappings A pair of royal blue and silver mules uses glossy kid for the mules proper, | an openwork strap model, with two bands of the block worked in silver in a little dart pattern. There [y T-strap running up to hold the bands in place, and a third band fastens the heel in place. Comfortable, very chic, | very new | Wonderful mules for either a blue | flat crepe with silver velvet coat or for a gray suit with blue trim. For a modern miss there is a scarlet and gold pair of mules that is quaint, yet modern. It has a flaring, high- pointed vamp which reaches up the in- step almost to ankle height. This vamp is striped in gold. A smart black and white model has only a saddle of woven black and white patent leather and soft kid, a square sole at the toe and an unusual ankle strap that goes over the heel. The mule is lined with gleaming black and the heel is white. A soft crepe de chine mule is made t gold-colored silk with & rich inlay of otherwise looks i dancing slipper, and T, Last, but not least, we should note the white satin and black velvet mule that is smart a with a_suit of white and black pajamas. ‘These have saddles of black velvet, white edged, and a white satin heel. (Copyright. 1830.) o Rent thousands _of insect use the coffee plantations. Brazil - tes ummmmfit»em.mmmu-mammflrfi. |it's & fright the way that child dresses. | No queen could keep up with her.” | “That sounds as though it was quoted. | You're taking sides with Vera. And Vera is jealous of Barbara. So Vera is lining you all up to back her. Bar- bara Loomis is a rather fine child. I've seen a few things myself, and she isn't getting a square deal Mary squirmed uneasily. “But the big thing I want you to re- member is this, my dear: Never dislike | any one because some one else does. Think for yourself, Don't copy-cat your feelings. “Now, if you really and truly don't like Barbara, let her alone, but don't | talk about her. If you do like her, be friendly, and don't let the other girls influence you. Vera's leading your | whole crowd around by the nose. And | I'd rather you'd follow your own nose. Do you understand?” Mary stared at the floor a minute, and then she said suddenly: “I think Vera is awful bossy. | probably always have to have people | about her to ‘boss,’ but keep your heart | | free and your mind to yourself. That | | will always belong to you.” | | Mary sprang up. “There goes Bar- bara to school now alone. There's Vera and Dot up the block. I'm going out ‘lnd walk down with Barbara. I guess | T can act any way I want to.” Vera from afar saw the deserter sur- render to the enemy. “Look, girls,” she pointed, “there goes Mary Seddon with the Queen. I'd—I'd have more character! She has no more | spunk than a rabbit, running after that | little high-h: “Bab's not & high-hat,” said Lois un- expectedly. “My mother knows her bother, and they aren’t stuck up at all. I'm going to be nice to her, t00." “Then go,” Vera stamped, “and don't | you ever speak to me again!” | " Children often are cruel without meaning_to be so. They follow the | | leader. If that leader isn’t all he should | be, the others are likely to imitate and do_what he does without thinking. | In their reactions to other people parents can do a great deal to set things right by suggestion—by teaching them e —e— belt. The white velvet ca flat crepe dress at the rij Erniine’-sf Fur Wasfl On Weasel’s Back Many women who wear ermine coats do not realize that the fur on their backs belonged once to a,weasel. A Russian weasel, to be sure, but & weasel none the less. Until quite recently the most strik- ing thing about ermine was the black tail that appeared every once in 8o | often against the pure white back- ground of the fur. Now ermine ap- pears with nary a tail on its surface, and sometimes whole rows of tails edge of a pure white ermine wrap. Another recent innovation in the way of ermine is the use of so-called Summer ermine, which s the pelt of the weasel as it is in the Summer. The white coat appears only when there is snow upon the und, thus serving to protect the little animal from enemies. Now white ermine is some times dyed light brown to make it look like Summer ermine, and some times ermine is dyed stral pastel shades, mauve, rose, etc. ut the fad for this colored ermine seems to be on the wane. It is said that in Paris the really fashionable women have given up any sort of ermine but the white. The true ermine is really only the Russian _weasel, but experts say that it is difficult to distinguish the fur of the American weasel in Winter coat from the real Russian ermine. There is really nothing deceptive in calling American weasel “ermine,” because it to think their own thoughts. is really as fine a fur. Vanity Vogues of Today JEVER s often some one with a pas- |to match. | > "sion for figures estimates how much | several times a day and makeup has to American women spend annually cosmetics. No one, however, has ever made a | check on the number of hours annually | the woman spends in front of the dress- table mirror. There are countless inducements to spending hours per day there, and not least among them is the dressing table or vanity itself. | Grandmother or great-grandmother | may have been content to take down ber curl papers in front of a badly sil- | vered and possibly cracked mirror above | & chest of drawers. But the application | of modern makeup requires an excellent mirror, a comfortable place to sit and adequate space for the intricate prepa- rations which constitute this fearful and wonderful makeup. The greatly envied Prench cv!t beau- ties who spent three-fourths Of their time making themselves lovely for their brilliant evenings by the American woman so far as ing tables and vanities are concerned. The furniture manufacturers seem to be in cahoots with the cosmetic manu- l‘ncturen in this matter of making it easy for the woman, be she the leisurely society matron or the hurried business girl, to apply her makeup and put on | and adjust her frocks and hats. | Every woman knows the tremendous help to correct dressing the full-length mirror can be. One of the new vanities which the modern woman may have in her bed room has a full-length mirror in the center. It is flanked by two half-length ones which give a view of face and hair from every possible angle. This same vanity has commodious drawer space cleverly concealed behind doors which swing out to give easy access to the drawers. is is an excellent arrangement for tuckd away the unsightly bottles and . drawer 1s0 Lomminodate small ttems of Slothing, such on | | and its illusion of naturalness, the dress- need not be envied e Ot s dress | mium, for it may be placed before two | When women must dress be put on often to preserve its freshness ing table chair or bench is a great energy saver. They are also a great addition to the smartness and attrac- tiveness of the bed room or dressing room. Many women prefer to apply at least part of their makeup in the bath room. A skirted vanity in the bath room, with |its convenient ‘drawer and bench, is a | decorative note in the room. Many of these are skirted with glazed chintz, which is easily kept clean, and | covered with a glass top, the advan- | agzs of which are obvious. Another type of skirted vanity has | the drapery on a frame which swings easily open and reveals ample drawer | space. |the mirror fastened to it or hung on | the wall above it. It is especially useful rooms where space is at a pre- | windows which have only the space of | the woodwork, or a little more, between them. The vanity which is made to be |in the corner of the bed room other exceeding’ useful type. three-mirrored affair and is built in | kind of semi-cizcle. (Copyright. 1930.) Creole Dinner. Melt two tablespoonfuls of shorten- ing in a skillet. Add one cupful of chopped okra, one large onion chopped, and one green pepper and two hot pep- pers chopped, and brown. Flour one pound of ground meat and add to the mixture and brown. Add one can of tomato sauce and one tablespoonful of chili powder. Cover with water and simmer for ;;1:' hour. Salt to taste. o ice separately. & platter in the form of a put the mixture in the cen- of the rice. are used together like fringe at the| This type of vanity may have | is trimmed with white ¢ It is worn with long bl Lemons Protect Health They Provide Vitamins and Have Beautifying Qualities—Desserts Which Give Proper Touch to Meals—Other Uses for Supply | 1 | or gruesome or morbid about it. oed | it too bad about the Smiths?” or “Isn't Simply extreme and extremely simple is the dress at the left, made of white satin with rhinestone shoulder strap and {nx. The latest version of the very low back is shown in the black | lack suede gloves. in Kitchen. F you make a habit of using more lemon juice—and grated lemon | rind, too—in your dally bill of fare you will be sure of giving your family just so many more vitamins. In making French dressing for salad, many persons prefer lemon juice to vinegar, and to some persons it is more | wholesome. By way of variety it is worth trying, especially when the dress- ing is to be used with a fish salad. A few drops of lemon juice add much even when vinegar is used and prepared mayonnaise is often improved by the addition of little fresh lemon juice just before using. There are many excellent lemon | desserts. Just run through your favor-| ite cook book looking for them. Lemon | Jelly, lemon ple, lemon filling for cakes, | lemon corn starch pudding, lemon egg pudding, lemon rice pudding, lemon tapioca, lemon pudding sauce, lemon ice, lemon cookies will appeal to you | as_more or less familiar desserts. You will find, too, that many fruit desserts are improved by the addition of a little lemon. Prune and fig desserts are among them and toward the end of the season apples are very much improved if cooked with a little lemon. | When you bake bananas, lemon juice revents them from tasting insipid. Imost all made fish dishes call for lemon and broiled fish needs a garnish of lemon quarters. Sweetbreads and | very often veal dishes are improved | with lemon julce. There is always use for a lemon in the kitchen, for it is the most effective | whitener of skin after it has been stained with vegetable or fruit juice. Hot lemonade, a very old standby, | is one of the few of the oid home reme- | dies that the doctors of today take seri- | ously. They may smile at some of your | suggestions, and hold up a shocked hand at others, but for the incipient | | cold don't be surprised if they prescribe nothing but “hot lemonade and early o pen® | When you want to get the juice of | a lemon you may resort to the old- | fashioned ‘method of rolling it under the ball of your feet on the foor. You| will find an even imore effective method and one more cleanly is to heat the lemon slightly before opening it. And | did you know that if you want to keep | Talk About Misery Scandal doesn’t interest them espe- clally unless there is something gory “Isn't it going to be dreadful for Mrs. Jones?” or “I don’t know how Nellie is going to pull through.” With such introductions does the misery monger begin many of her cholcest revelations. She will tell you about her husband's stenographer, or some one else in whom you ve no ial interest. The stenographer—quite a plain, middle- aged sort of wofhan—put all her sav- ings in a certain kind of stock and the man who sold the stock said—and if only the stenographer had asked her husband’s advice—and, of course, the stock wasn't good—and the poor,woman has lost every cent she had in world and now she will have to begin saving all over again. And so it lr. ‘Ne\llfi;:'oul the mh:ppy mdnmm Nnkw of tel you any en all these sad tales. e N IR A\, 7¥ 3] > Yellow, green and gold chiffon lame with scarf falling at the back. Keep Hands Soft The greatest cause of chapped hands in Winter is strong soap. Soap that may be excellent for washing dishes and not too strong for clothes if prop- erly used may be ruinous to hands. The fact is that a soap selected merely De- cause it is good for household clean is never kind to hands, and a soap mi enough for hands is not strong enough for all kinds of housework. You must strike a compromise somewhere along the line. A good thing to do is to use a fairly mild soap for dish washing—a goap that you would not consider too strong for a bath. Have on hand some strong- er soap—some of the soap powders are excellent for this purpose. When you have any sticky dishes or pots and pans make use of this soap, but do not touch it with your hands. Have a spoon ready for this pu . Once you get in the habit of looking on these things in this light the matter becomed easy. You certainly ought not to discard a good Soap powder or scouring material just because it hurts your hands when used carelessly. Jumpers Please Us The jumper dress, that we have heard so much about recently, at the present time has a sleeveless upper portion cut down at the front to show a blouse usually of washable material and almost always white or light toned. It is the present-day version of the guimpe dress and is quite as suitable some lemons a length of time you| should keep them in water, making sure | that the water is cool and that it is| for women as it is for little girls. changed every day or so? | There are one-piece jumper dresses It is an English trick to rub new|of tweed or other light-weight woolen boots with half a lemon. This is said| material, belted at normal waist- to make them take their first polish | line, and there are two-plece jumper satisfactorily. It is also an English | dresses with an e portion extend- suggestion to suck a lemon if you get a | ing a little below the hips, also belted fishbone lodged in your throat and you|in at the waistline. Moreover, there cannot get & doctor. They say that the | are jumper-type sweaters worn tucked- lemon juice will dissolve the fishbone. | in fashion or over the skirt. These are It is one of the things that one prefers | nothing more or less than sleeveless to take for granted without creating| sweaters made to be worn with a sepa- conditions favorable to testing its efi-| rate blouse and are d cacy. at present for geit er 1980.) sports. (Copyright. the black velvet evening dress trimmed ab The b eaque The hair, parted at either side, is caught neck and l'louldcr'.:‘l.viil:l :’u I |\ @t the front with a rhinestone pin. - - [YSTTST R S i