Evening Star Newspaper, February 9, 1930, Page 55

11 Springtime New Fashions Have Ristinctive Qualities in Details Which Give New Appearance to Neck and Sleeves, in Blending of Colors and in Adaptation of Fabrics—Exploita- tion of Flare in Cape—Bows Have Taken on New Importa breviated. BY HELEN DRYDEN. O one can complain that our Spring clothes are not new. They may not hit us between the eyes so forcibly as our Fall clothes did those who had not been following the trends of the fashion world, but they are different. Not mere- 1y in length of the skirt and position of the waistline, but in details which give & new look to the neck and sleeves, in blending of colors and in adaptation of fabrics. The silhouette in general remains the same. It is molded with fitted lines which mark a higher waistline and continues below the thighs, Jar- ing from that point in panels and flounces. 1t is a conclusive demonstra- tion that women's natural figures are to evail. Curves are to replace straight ines. Even the suit which was once considered the most mannish garment in & woman's wardrobe frankly reveals these curves—in fact, encourages them by the nipping in at the waist and the flare below it by means of either peplum or cutaway lines, * % % % “'E find a still further exploitation of the flare in the cape. It may be only a shoulder cape, split in the back and rippling over the shoulders, ending as a scarf in the front, or it may appear only in the back, dipping to the waistline, or again it may swing entirely around the figure, falling even below the waistline. In its latest adap- tation we find it as an integral factor of both the jacket and the long coat. For Spring we shall see it as an equally important part of the dress. It is also present on the street coat and dress and on the formal afternoon and evening gown. On many of the picturesque sheer cotton frocks it serves as a ca collar, while on the chiffons it Pl: helow the decolletage in the back. thus softening a curve which cannot always be revealed with beauty. nce—Sleeves Are Ab- | (QN_many black silk frocks capes | merge into deep yokes. Made of lace, net or chiffon in one of the pastel tints. they are extremely flattering, re- lieving the somberness of the gown and bringing a color next to the face. Some yokes terminate in a scarf in the back which is looped at the neck and hangs in streamers. On the more formal 5 to 8 dresses these yokes and capes are joften very elaborate. being made of beaded net, jewel embroidered batiste and organdy, or chiffon covered with | & delicate tracery of sced pearls. The | same touch is repeated on the sleeves, | in pouchlike drapes at the wrist or at the elbows. | e e ol |BOWS. you should kmow, have taken on new importance. In fact, they ve grown so large that when placed at the round of the back they do sug- gest pictures of the bustle. And here is one of the favorite ways of posing them, either as the conclusion of sash or belt or to attach to the frock the | panels which fall to the floor and serve as trains. Large, flat bows are also placed on skirts as trimming, and flat bows of the material are incrusted and inset into silk and wool daytime dresses. Dresses for all hours of the day, blouses, and even jackets are appear- ing with sleeves much abbreviated. Some sleeve, however, is considered smarter than no sleeve at all, unless you are going to cover the bare arm with cape or bolero. There are sleeves which reach midway between the round of the arm and the elbow and these you will find on the cottons for sports, the woolens for town, and the silks for all hours. But even newer are sleeves which reach over the elbow, and this is the length which is seen on somie of the new jackets. Some of the jacket sleeves extend even farther, to a point about midway between the elbow and the wrist. These are often split and fall in winglike drapes. (Copyright, 1930.) Boy Finally Will Trayel Alone Parent Cannot Be Engine, Steering Gear, Bat- tery and Lamps on Borderline Between Childhood and Developing Maturity—Fam- ily Arguments. BY OLIVE ROBERTS BARTON. “FA’!’BZR and I have decided that the gray suit 1s better. I'll send the blue one back tomorrow.” “But, Mother, T haven't had a blue suit for vears. Please, mayn't I have the other? “Don’t ccax, Nelson. We know best.” - The boy knew the uselessness of ar- gument. He slid down in his chair and @pened a book in gloomy discontent. “That's no way to act. You should glad we're buying you a new suit. My goodness! When your father was a Boy_your age—" “I know. He worked and bought his Qwn clothes.” “Now, Nelson, that's no way to talk.” h, I know, Mother. But I'll work only you and Dad'll let me.” “You know I wanted to help deliver ries_Saturdays and you wouldn't me. You say I won't work and then when I want to—" retenfled' ‘;\‘ot to he;r. presenting new prob- lh- least of them g:!ns & new tendency to argue. B“nd by she heard h?lm in the hall. “Where are you gof - “‘Over to watch ‘?ce ‘Turner said maybe they would put me on the var- sity if Leroy didn't better, I'm the Best center on the interclass, he says. And they need me.” “You know what your father thinks of basket ball, Nelson. He doesn't mind @ little game now and then over at achool, but when it comes to playing “Turner put me on the big team as center,” “Well, he can take you off again,” re- plied his father quickly. *“No, we'll not discuss it. What I say goes. And if {gx can't be a little pleasanter around house than you've been every time you can’t have your own way, I'll have something to say about that, too.” ° “Aunt Mary telephoned, dear,” said his mother shortly. ' “She wants you to g0 to a movie with her tonight. You may wear your new gray suit.” “And I ordered a new Oxford dic- tionary for you today,” added his father as a peace offering. Suddenly Neison pushed back his chair. “Oh, darn the dictionary. And darn Aunt Mary and darn the new gray suit. I don’t want 'em.” “All you want is your own bull head,” declared his father, angrily. Nelson left the table. In his eyes there was more than misery, however. There was perplexity and a sort of ‘The next morn! the coach went to call on Nelson's father, and they made @ compromise. “That man doesn't understand grew- ing boys any more than I understand Sanskrit.” Turner complained to the prineipal that afternoon. “He's going to be engine, steering gear, battery and lamps to that kid. He doesn’t realize that every growing boy is more or less of a yoi pony and you can't rein him in too tight or he’ll on the team, well, he says, too many | bol neglect their studies for athletics.” elson didn't get home until long after dark. His father was home and dinner was waiting. “I'm sorry,” the boy called happily. *Be right in, Mother. Got news.” “Well, what is it?” asked his father when they were settled at the table. “It's the first time I've seen you smile for & month, so it must be something ‘wonderful.” Shampoo Is Correct Methods Must Be Learned at the Beauty School—Will ‘Add More to Your Hair Beauty Than Spe- cial Lotions. IP you should take a course at a beauty school of the type that trains professional beauticians, you would be “You're right, Turner. Nelson isn't | the happy boy he used to be. I've a no- | tion to go around some evening and | make a friendly call.” | "And I hope he does. I hope he will | open their eyes to the fact that when a | child steps over the borderline between childhood and maturity, parents must step after him. Thereafter they may be guides, but they cannot be leaders. The boy must, more or less, walk alene. Emphasized For a dry egg shampoo, only the | whites_of eggs are necessary. These | must first be beaten, then applied to dry hair. Let the whites dry on the hair d then brush them out ther- oughly and vou will have hair that is light and fluffy. | But what every girl should know, | whether or not her aim is to be a | cosmetiste, is how to give a good sham- peo without any extras, and you should | know, too, that one every two weeks is | an_accepted rule. First moisten the hair with warm. | soft water—hard water does not rinse | out the soap well—and then rub in the | shampoo with a firm, steady stroke ‘until it lathers freely. 1 inse the hair and scalp thoroughly | with warm water and then resoap. If & TR w GO = told very early that the color of your | the hair is especially ofly or dirty, a locks and their natural inclination to | third soaping is necessary. The rinsing curly or straighten out are not nearly so | must be very thorough and the novice important from the point of view of real | often discovers that she has to start beauty as is the shampoo. | all over again in order to get all the For beautiful hair is the result of | soap out. Special care must be taken eleanliness more than anything else, but | to do this properly. the wrong kind of shampooing can do| Artificial dryers should be used onl: more harm than good. | by those who have learned to worl Castile soap, because it treats kindly | them, and sunlight is the best possiblé all the various t of hair—dry and | dryer for the tresses, or an open fire oily—is always safe to use. Here is a|in the Winter time, if possible. In any way you can make your own shampoo | case, care should be taken not to have by @ simple professional formul either the artificlal or natural heat too Take a pound of castile sosp and |strong, as either blazing fires or suns ghave it into very fine pieces, Mix it{ will injure the scalp and the hair. 4 with a gallon of bcllm{ water contain-| Hair t(hat is not clean cannot be ar- ing one teaspoonful of baking powder | ranged attractively, for it will be dull and one teaspoonful of borax or salt. and sometimes sticky. A simple sham- Let this mixture stand until the soap ' poo. properly administered, will add 18 thoroughly dissolved. more to hair beauty than a dozen spe- The water should be at the boiling | cial hair lotions. It not only gives one point wWhen it is added to the soap, but| an _appearance of well-being, but an the mixture should not be boiled at all.| added sense of health. Boiling spoils the cleansing qualities of | When you learn that the average the shampoo because it separates the head of an adult has some 150,000 hairs olls and the alkali. ;lnd that each hair should be as clean When the hair is especially olly, | as your finger nails, even the most tincture of green soap is recommended, | simple shampoo should be administered and for the dandruff _scalp tar soap | with care. . .. And here it is well to| may be employed. But you should | remember at singeing the hair 1s nev’er rub apba}; of soap on the hair| no more beneficial to it than sineging when you wish a perfect shampoo.| the fingernails would be to them. Make it ‘lx\‘quld by sha‘:ln‘ IAQ b:ung l:";m P—— it sosk ‘warm water. . of water to & cake of soap i the right Felt Lace Trims solution most cases. You learn Tow to"give an egg sham- Smart New Hats E uk;;tm 'x?&’l,”nwfl‘,md:d, - Felt lace which is used in some of For a wet-egg shampoo, the yolks|the newest French hats is one of the and whites are ten separately and a |Novelties of the season. The “lace” is tablespoonful of water is added to the| Produced by more or less intricate per- yolks. Two eggs are usually enough | forations of the felt with the design Unless the hair is very abundant. First | further accented by matching embroid- rinse the halr in warm water—always| €ry. Usually the lace finish appears use soft water for mmgoolnl—lnd at the edge of the felt, which is of then rub in the yolks of the eggs and | the finest, lightest rort. them out. After that rub in the| 1In a new off-the-face hat from Le ites of the and rinse them out.| Monnler of Paris the felt that comes TOP, LEFT—E S PLEATS IN FRONT TO E‘E“nfi?? cfi'(',':{?nm' CENTER—EARLY SPRING ENSEMBLE, WITH LONC OAT OF SILK Ci OF THE PRINTED SILK USED FOR THE DRESS. BOTTOM, RIGHT—BLACK LINEN SUIT WORN WITH WHITE BLOUSE TRIMMED WITH RED AND B R, CU ED AND TA! AR PRGNS, O NBLE, DESIGNED Y CLAIRE SOKCRS. THE BLOUSE 15 OF GOLD.COLORED. FLAT CRENE. " HOn: RIGRTSPORTS 8 3 E SEM A G CL. EURS. >OLD-COL LAT C . s SHT—S S —RAINBOW_WOOl, GEORGETTE ENSE VE FULLNESS TO THE SKIRT. BOTTOM, LEFT—WOOL CREPE, TAILORTYPE GOWN, WITH WHITE EPE IN A SHADE OF RED HARMONIZING WITH W /25 | I ][] Il il i I Moire Makes Lovely Dress for Evening either in solid color or in printed design, is one of the best ma- terials for the home dressmaker to It is firm without being heavy be cut accurately y than the softer crepes, and it has a crispness and a smartness about it that help the home dressmaker to achieve results compara- ble with those of the professional. There is just one objection to be raised against moire—and that is that it loses its watered appearance when washed, and many women now wash their own silk dresses instead of send- ing them to the cleaner. he essional We Can All Be Well Dressed RASHES in Wall Street may come and go, but the eternal feminine, ‘Woman owes it to herself to look 1t is one of her greatest assets and she who realizes the power that lies therein is a wise woman. We cannot all be beauties, lamorous personalities, but we can all make the most of our- p looking attractive and up to date. One does not have to be always to spend a certain amount of time, ti like the brook, goes on forever, her‘best at all times. and, therefore, may nding money, but one does have | | ¥ith less difcult ught and energy in finding the Is there anything worse than for a woman to be labeled “dowdy”? And there is just no excuse for it these days. Practically right around the corner from even those who live in smali towns there are shops full of good-looking clothes at not exorbitant prices. ‘That'is where the clever woman with discernment has the advantage over her sister who is not “clothes conscious” and whe blunders when she buys. Beware of tricky clothes and jdeas that possess too much novelty, for their day is short, and one will find one's self with half-worn, frumpy ly is very im int of per- (atbomnhmpworumm«uk the effed¥ of small ‘the hair very sticky. things while the woman who put time and taste inte bumwul atill look sma HELEN QEVDEN. Dressmakers Use Gathers 'HE French dressmal are showing much interest in gathers, and the predicticn is made that we shall see mch of them this Spring and during Summer months to follow. Gathers have been used to manipu- late the fullness of panels on many of the new more closely molded dresses of | pin tucks running across and up and the princess sort, and last Autumn | Louise Boulanger ‘made gathered frills | not only on chiffon dresses but on those of velvet and even of woolen materials. Molyneux showed a fondness | for gathers on chiffon evening dresses in the early Winter and the tulle eve- ning dress with gathered ruffies was | received with with enthusiasm. While pleating will be. used this Spring, gathering and shirring will often be used instead. Another favorite trimming for the new Spring clothes, es) the better sort, will There are crepe de chine dresses the entire surface of which is covered with down, giving the appearance of large home dressmaker who works carefully and with precision can get’ wif 8ood results with pin tucks. and & very smart dress can be made at reasonable cost from crepe de chine. pin tucks may be 3 or 4 apart, running the le; - 8:0 width ol‘l.hn mn‘ ' |Return of Cloche 1% | Foreshadowed for | Coming Season— Many Styles and Many Colors Make, Choosing of the New. Hat an Easy Matter. BY MARY MARSHALL. TRAWS so supple and withal so firm that they may be handled like felts, felts so soft that they can be draped and folded like fabrics, and fabrics that are a8 fashion right for hats as either straw or felt lend an almost infinite variety to the new hats for late Winter and Spring. And this variety of material is matched with a variety of shapes that gives to us a wider scope for choice in millinery fashions than has ever been possible before. For your further. encouragement in choosing a hat that is entirely becoming there is the fact that there are no one or two smart colors for Spring. You will not be tempted to buy a hat of fuchsia or mustard or periwinkle blue or any of the other rather trying colors that sometimes present themselves as fashion’s choice in early Spring. This seaton fashion bids us choose a hat that matches or harmonizes with suit or coat—and distinction is gained by smartness of shape rather than by striking color. ‘The return of the cloche shape is & millinery event that will be hailed with approval by many women who have found the extreme off-the-face sha difficult to wear. These new cloc! have the advantages of the cloche of & few seasons ago, but they are actuslly quite different—more different than the casual observer realizes unless she com- es one with one of the old cloches stowed away in a ‘box of discarded hats. * ok K THE new cloche is designed to be worn further back on the head and the line of the crown shows a graceful upward_curve from the back to the front. Then, too, the sides of these new cloches are long' enough to shade the sides of the face, and the crowns are gracefully rounded with a low contour at the front. There is a good deal of the poke about all of them. For resort wear some of these revived pokes are made of stiffened linen to match or blend with the color®of linen dresses or suits. -Sometimes there 15 & combination * of - materials—a ° straw crown with & pique brim, a straw crown with felt brim or a straw crown par- tially covered with felt. otk 2 STRAW undoubtedly will be worn in earlier this season than it has been recent seasons, but there are light- ‘weight felts that will be chosen by many :omm;: m t'he l.xn.wtnm and early or 8] or Fabric hats may be chosen to bridge gap between cold weather and warm weather fashions and even velvet i made to give just the right touch for the early Spring hat. 4] Very charming are some of the new turbans of ribbon, many of which are finished with a bow'or loops at the back :h.:'t give & flattering background to the feminine as the show little fact, it is ‘more more alluring, but through clever choice and arrangement ‘of materials. Some of the smartest of the resort hats show & narrow ribbon band and bow as their only trimming. A of the crowns usually curves back so that & wide band would be out of the question, . (Copyrisht, Color Names Are Full of Allure Despite the efforts of makers of fabrics to standardize the colors shown each year .this standardization does not go beyond those in the profession. And often a dressmaker or er of note will hasi- est saleswoman. matter in the least—at least from the point of view of the chic or beauty of the clothes. .And the designer who has a true eye for color is of far greater use to us than the one who is glib in the use of color terms. However there is an interesting bit. of psychology in golor names that is often made use of. by the writer of ad- vertisements. = The merchant who knows his customers knows that they have a fondness for interesting sound- ing color names. If he asvertises new fabrics he will do well to be specific, instead of merely saying “all the new shades.” A French name or so, a name of picturesque newness, & name old and tried and a name that is new but self- explanatory and one that leaves the reader in a quandary—that makes a good list of color names. the merchant mentions rust and cocoa, that are self-explanatory, tur- quoise blue and coral, that are old standbys, water green to arouse your lcurinen.v. with h;p:salhly mushroom to eave you guessing. It is nog“ a hew triok, however, and the color names of years, by were perhaps = devised by urers, merchants and dressmakers to_stimu- late trade. Mtl&e‘f audacious was the one wha originated puce, and dared to name a color for a flea. But it was the audaciousness of the name as well as the quality of the color that made it such a long-time favorite. London fog was a picturesque name for a once- popular gray and ashes of roses had element of romance about it that ap- pealed to the Victorian women who wore it. Nile green dated from a time when excavations in %pl were focus- ing popular interest. ere Whs a.time when burnt slenna, ochre and names of colors on a painter’s. palette gained popularity. J A Black Is.Smart. Ald‘fl to bringe gladness into drab ys_of late Winter, fashion de- lights in bringing. forth new colors and new color combinations. There is no one ‘color leader. nor any one fashion- right color combination. Navy blue is almost a perennial, re- turning in the Sp: like the flowers. Whether it will replace black in its ponullmyhu [y qur:un:;l’ Black )::& pears to more strongly: than ever. The smartest n{WAnfl coats for the Spring are.those of black, wide-wale cheviots, granite-weave wool- ens and even black tweed. The rea- son is undoubt -the fact that these materials . perml of ' numerous fur treatments, black . and white lyak, biege and . butler-yellow lapin' and Summer ermine. On the other hand, m&y lfl.pmthpl r-Jld l::mh'lil;u“well with all colors, eu! e ales bright colors of Ee Bprinly. fi, However, there are navy blwegs The most popular, and the one to Of | which the accessories are being keyed, is what might be called a bright navy, Another cqlor,“ are hearing dis. cussed 13 gray. "5t Ras 'already been. accepted as a eolor, byt the ‘numerous va; , all it with livelier tones, it may a volume shade. There are grays th mauve which are very becoming, and gfays blen low, green, blue,'grange and beige has taken on a grayish - east. These grays also have the happy faculty of combining well with blue, with yel- low, with old rose tints, and with green. 2